Coast to Coast Walk (Part 1)

13^th – 17^th May 2024

 

Introduction

 

Mike and I, after last year’s start to the England Coast Path, had decided that our annual five days trip in the limited time we have left, should not be wasted on dreary tramps through industrial parts of the country. With the Coast to Coast (C2C) due an upgrade to a national trail, the idea of a traverse of the Lake District became more interesting. The accommodation gets very booked up so eight months in advance I had made reservations for hotels for the St Bees to Kirkby Stephen section. Little did I know that train strikes would continue and proliferate during the winter. In the weeks leading up to our departure, transport issues would dominate our plans and the easiest solution was to leave a car as near as possible to the start and finish points.

 

Therefore, on Sunday 12^th May 2024, we drove up the Carlisle, left the car in Sainsbury’s on a prebooked parking basis, and took the last train to St Bees. Leaving behind a wonderful spring day in Cheshire, it was raining as we walked from the station to Seacroft Hotel at the beach. A rather delayed meal of fish and chips, the kitchen was busy even though we had reserved a table, gave me the opportunity to mark the start of our holiday with two pints of Wainwright’s Gold (4.1%), a very appropriate beer for the walk we were embarking on. Watered and fed and after a good night’s sleep, we were ready to go.

 

Monday 13^th May 2024                     St Bees – Ennerdale Bridge

Don’t Forget the Pebble

 

Just before 9am, we stepped out of the hotel into a large, bare and rather empty car park. The rain had stopped and it was a warm morning with not a breath of wind. A haze hung over the sea as we went in search of the official start of the C2C trail. This we found at the top of some steps leading down to the pebble-covered beach. A young lady was requisitioned to take the mandatory photograph to record the moment, then we were reminded to dip our boots in the Irish Sea, collect a pebble and carry it with us across the country. The sea was too far out so we made do with a pool at the bottom of the steps. But we each chose a pebble to take over to the North Sea, and deposit at Robin Hoods Bay in maybe two years’ time. Then it was up the steps and the steep grassy side of St Bees Head and our annual walk was underway.

 

It seemed a long way along the grassy clifftop path, heading northwards and not inland as expected. Four miles of high cliffs took us passed a lighthouse, round North Head and to an active stone quarry before we turned east towards the village of Sandwith. The quiet little hamlet looked lovely as the sun burnt off the morning mist and a pleasant series of grassy tracks took us towards the Lakeland hills. A descent into a damp valley led to an underpass beneath the railway line and up the other side to a disuse railway that was now a cycleway. I had assumed that the C2C would use this old line but a sign pointed directly into Moor Row. At the entrance to the village stood a statue and monument to C2C walkers, although the stone figure looked more like a fisherman than a walker. A local led us through the village and showed us the line of the original route. We were quickly crossing fields and sports grounds towards Cleator and its little village shop. A brief halt to resupply and grab a takeaway coffee and then we were directed towards a bench in the kiddies play area where sandwiches could be quietly consumed.

 

The afternoon section began with an ascent and traverse of Dent Hill via the western ridge through Blackhow Wood. The descent on the east side began gently enough but ended with a steep drop down to Nannycatch Beck. This was a stunning remote valley which was spoilt for us only by the need to don waterproofs against the increasing heavy drizzle. The head of the valley led onto a very busy moorland road used, we later found out, as a rat-run for Sellafield traffic. Dodging the speeding traffic and even a low loader and support vehicle, we eventually arrived into Ennerdale Bridge and our hotel for the night. It had been a tough start to our week and a warning of what was to come.

 

St Bees dep. 08.52, Ennerdale Bridge arr. 16.37

GPS 14.70 miles in 7hr 10mins 09secs walking time with 30 mins lunch stop in Cleator.

Stayed in the Shepherds Arms, Ennerdale Bridge and ate a roast lamb dinner with ginger sponge and custard for dessert. Drinks included Keswick Gold (3.6%) from Keswick Brewing Co. and Mowdy Pale Ale (4.0%) from Tractor Shed.

 

 

Tuesday 14^th May 2024                Ennerdale Bridge  – Seatoller

Sailing Over to HonisteronisterH

 

It had been raining all night and the roads were wet as we left the pub in full raingear. A mile and a half of road brought us to the foot of Ennerdale Lake. The path round the south side was well made up at first but quickly deteriorated into a narrow rock-strewn trod and then a scramble up and around a steep headland. A party of Australian walkers were finding this rather testing and one of their number turned back and went round the other side of the lake. A series of wooded stream crossings slowed down the pace and it was over two hours before we had completed the four miles to the head of the lake. Here in a grassy field, a lone walker who had passed us earlier was waiting for company to pass a herd of cattle. Continuing on the south side of the river, we made better progress on a forestry track that took us another four miles up the valley. As we switched to the north bank, a group of Canadian walkers joined us and accompanied us to Black Sail Youth Hostel, probably the most remote accommodation in England. As the rain was still heavy, we slipped inside and found a spare table where we ate our sandwiches. Sharing the table was a girl walking the C2C with her dog Roo, a fox-red Labrador. Our paths would cross several times during the coming week.

 

It was raining as hard as ever as we left the youth hostel and traversed the hillside to the bottom of the Black Sail Pass. Here we were faced with a steep and slippery staircase of stones and rocks as the path ascended 1000ft up the valley wall. The trod crossed and recrossed a tumbling stream which was now in spate. Mike stumbled on one of these precarious fords and took some time to recover. Meanwhile the Canadian women had caught us up and, when we regathered the troops at the top of the pass, we set out together across the high route towards the Honister quarries and then down the old tramway to the visitors’ centre and café below. Some of the C2C walkers descended into Borrowdale down the road but Mike and I, purists to the last, took the signed track down to Seatoller. This brought us out above our hotel with no obvious access into the grounds. We were forced back to the road for the last 100 yards to the hotel entrance. Two very wet and weary walkers climbed the steps into the reception lobby. We deposited much of our wet gear in the drying room, full as it was of clothing from other guests. We had time for showers and a rest before taking our seats in the restaurant for the one and only sitting at 7.30pm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ennerdale Bridge 08.42, Seatoller arr.16.22

GPS 13.83 miles in 7hrs 36mins 22secs walking time plus a 40 mins stop at Black Sail Youth Hostel.

Stayed at the Glaramara Hotel, Seatoller. Dinner of seabass fillets and apple crumble and custard.  The beer was Loweswater Gold (4.3%) from Cumbrian Ales, Hawkshead.

 

 

Wednesday 15^th May 2024               Seatoller – Grasmere

Up Greenup and Down Easedale

 

Pole position for breakfast enabled us to be walking by 8.15am. Borrowdale looked a picture in the morning sunshine, especially after arriving in yesterday’s dreich weather. We cut across the field path to Seathwaite Church and then crossed the river to gain the path up Greenup Gill. A long and steady climb high up above the stream led between steep-sided hills that closing in around us as we gained altitude. In the upper reaches of the valley, the path contoured round to cross and recross the rushing mountain torrent. I looked back after one of these crossings and was alarmed to see Mike lying head down on his back just above a small waterfall. He had slipped and fallen onto a small waterfilled ledge and was lucky not to had hurt himself. With much mirth, I helped him to his feet and we proceeded up to what we thought was the top of the climb. Only to be faced by a 200ft wall of grass and rocks leading up to Greenup Edge. Pretty exhausted, it was a relief to find that much of the path across the high plateau was flagged with stone slabs. Faster progress could now be made over the highest point where views over Easedale and Grasmere began to open up. Eventually we arrived at the top edge of Far Easedale and were tempted by the level path along the ridge to our left. But we would have to go down sometime so now was the moment. Down we plunged on a stony trod and wet grass.

 

The drop to the valley floor was tricky and time consuming and some care was necessary on some of the steeper sections.  Just as the going was flattening out and we were crossing a grassy patch beside the stream, Mike again disappeared from view. I found him sitting in 2 ft of water facing upstream in a fast-flowing pool. This time I had great difficulty helping him. His torso and the rucksack were entirely submerged and there was little to take hold of to haul him out. He threw his walking pole and camera onto the bank and slowly worked himself into a position to crawl out. He was soaked to the skin, his rucksack was saturated and his camera was damaged beyond repair. A change of clothes was necessary before we continued tentatively down the valley and across the footbridge onto easier ground. A long winding track led along the side of the now quietly flowing beck and we followed this into the outskirts of Grasmere. Our original plans were to bypass the village and ascend to just below Dunmail Raise and thence up Little Tongue to Grisedale Tarn. It had taken nearly 6 hrs to complete 8 miles and the prospect of another major mountain stage was not good. We sat on a bench near Goody Bridge, ate our sandwiches and discussed our various options.

 

Although Grasmere was busy with tourists, I was sure we would get accommodation somewhere in the village. This would mean foregoing our pre-paid bookings at Glenridding and Shap, an expensive choice. An alternative was to bus it round to Glenridding, miss out the afternoon section of our route, and keep to our pre-arranged schedule for the last two days. Taking coffee in Heaton Cooper’s café, Mathilde’s, we were able to watch the buses depart regularly for Windermere so we jumped on one driven by trainee driver who lost a side mirror in a roadside tree. The trainer made the trainee walk back to recover it whilst he drove the bus the rest of the way to Windermere. Here we popped into Booth’s to get sandwiches for the following day, then caught the bus over the Kirkstone Pass. This dropped us outside our bed & breakfast in Glenridding and once we had negotiated entry via a key in a code box, we had time for showers and depositing clothes in the drying facilities before hiking up the road to the local pub.

 

Seatoller dep. 08.19, Grasmere arr.14.45

GPS 8.19 miles in 5hrs 55mins 54secs walking time plus 30 mins eating butties near Goody Bridge.

In Glenridding we stayed at the Fairlight Guesthouse and ate at the Travellers Rest. I had Penang curry followed by apple & blackberry crumble and custard.

 

 

Thursday 16^th May 2024                 Glenridding – Shap

Reunion with Old Friends

 

It was a quiet, still and warm morning as we slipped out of the silent guest house. It did not remain that way however as I had to crash back in again to collect the walking pole I had left in the bedroom. A short walk along the roadside took us passed Patterdale Church where we turned into a field track to Side Farm. A path from there climbed steadily up the hillside with magnificent views of Brotherswater and the Kirkstone Pass beyond. The climbing ended when we pulled onto Boredale Hause. The well-defined path then headed across a plateau of hillocks and stony outcrops. Contouring round the largest of these brought us to the wonderfully situated Angle Tarn. It had started to rain and the hills around us were now capped in cloud. The hillside ahead was peopled by walkers, some of them familiar to us from earlier encounters. Two figures in particular were instantly recognisable, a girl and her dog struggling up the long slog beneath the Knot. This surely was Anita and Roo who we had met with at Black Sail two days before. We followed them into the mist and stood chatting briefly until two Australians, again old friends, climbed to join us. Then a party of C2C walkers completed the ascent of Ramsgill Head and were rewarded when, halfway across the head of Riggindale, the mist began to clear revealing a gloriously sunny day to the east. There was a regathering of all parties at Kidsty Pike summit cairn and then began the big descent pausing briefly to eat our Booth’s butties and wallowing in the view of Haweswater below.

 

The first part of the descent was a tricky set of rocky steps through a buttress of cliffs. This became very steep grass that only began to ease at lake level. I had a start on the rest and was be able to take my time on this taxing section. Roo the dog was the first to catch me followed by his owner, Anita. As I waited for Mike, Roo was set the task of retrieving his ball from a fast-flowing mountain stream and he was loving the diversion from the main task of covering the miles. It was a magnificently sunny afternoon along the lake (or reservoir to be accurate). A lakeside path wound for three miles or so above the shoreline, sometimes climbing away from the water’s edge to circumnavigate a crag or some woodland. At the end of Haweswater, the route passed through the tiny hamlet of Burnbanks and onto a concessionary path that wound its way through marshy meadows and sheep-grazed fields. Eventually the field paths brought us to Shap Abbey, a ruin that stood majestically next to a farm in a quiet valley beside a small stream. A farm track crossed the stream and, ignoring a pointless field path, we continued up and into a series of lanes that led directly to Shap village. Our accommodation for the night was the first building we came to.

Glenridding dep. 09.00, Shap arr.19.00

GPS 16.76 miles in 9hrs 36mins 48secs walking time plus a 20 mins lunch stop below Kidsty Pike.

We stayed in the New Ing Lodge and for a meal, we walked ½ ml through the village to the Kings Arms where I ordered chicken tikka, naan bread and rice and drank Keswick Gold (3.6%) and Neck Oil Session IPA(4.3%) from Beavertown Brewery, Tottenham. To cap a classic day on the hills, Anita and Roo joined us for a late drink and we chatted till well past our normal bed times.

 

Friday 17^th May 2024                      Shap - Orton 

Outside the Chocolate Factory

 

The plan for our week away involved catching a train from Kirkby Stephen to rescue our car. So that our homecoming was at a reasonable time, the 5pm train was our aim but the station was nearly 20 miles from Shap. And at yesterday’s pace we would not get there in time. We examined the option of an intermediate taxi pick-up point on route. But the taxis were not available after 3pm because of school run commitments. An earlier pick-up was unavoidable even though this which would curtail our day even more. We settled on a 2.15pm taxi rendezvous outside the chocolate factory in Orton some 8 miles down the trail and a chance to catch an earlier train. A more leisurely breakfast could be enjoyed followed by our latest start of the week. The C2C exits Shap village from the main street opposite last night’s pub, the Kings Arms. We were soon out in the fields above the houses. Shap is basically a one street town. Within minutes the west coast main line railway was crossed and we were walking beside the M6 motorway. I took a photo of the motorway footbridge as I had driven this stretch of road countless times and have never known which was the actual one.

 

On we pressed at a goodly pace across much easier terrain than we have had all week. An industrial complex contained a quarry and reservoir and just beyond was a large farm at Oddendale. The route then turned at right angles and traversed a sheep-grazed limestone plateau with the occasion stand of limestone pavement. Two trees were the dominant features in a generally bare and windblown landscape. A large ‘accidental’ rock of granite-type composition could have been Robin Hood’s grave, or at least one of his several graves we have encountered. Crossing a narrow moorland road, the route proceeded in a loop over rougher grassland and emerged on a busy road that led down into Orton. The C2C reach Orton via a lovely grassy descent through a wooded hillside and over some farmland following a small stream. The entry to the village was across a flower meadow that was so ecologically important that it had been designated as an SSSI. The old vicarage had an impressive tree-filled estate and garden and was adjacent to the Orton Scar Café, a great opportunity for lunch before our trip home. As instructed we were sitting outside the chocolate factory at 2.15pm but the taxi man was not in a hurry. The first thing he did when he arrived was to disappear into the factory shop and emerge eating a massive ice-cream. It did not take long to reach Kirby Stephen station and we had time to figure out the ticket machine before the 3pm train arrived. Our week was over and next year’s continuation would necessitate a taxi pick-up and transfer back to Orton.

 

Shap dep. 09.08, Orton arr. 13.00

GPS 8.30 miles in 3hrs 50mins 33secs

 

Conclusion

 

I had planned and booked the schedule and accommodation some eight months in advance to ensure that, on this busy trail, we had our annual week away organised. What I had not taken into account was the difficulty of the terrain and the inevitable march of time on our lessening abilities. Although I had originally kept the daily mileage to 17/18 mile maximum, the third day plan for Seatoller to Glenridding, involving two big mountain passes, was beyond our present capabilities. In retrospect I should have split that third day plan into two and made it a six-day trip in total. But the lack of flexibility with prepaid bookings did not allow me to  change the arrangements. The bus alternative from Grasmere to Glenridding kept all the hotel bookings in place but missed out a 9-mile section of the C2C over Grisedale Tarn. We will have to go back and complete this at a later date. In the meantime, we have 63 miles under our belts and are in a good position to return next year to Orton and attempt the next stage to Richmond and Danby Wyke via Kirkby Stephen and Keld.

 

Trans Pennine Trail (Part 1)

18^th – 21^st February 2024

 

Introduction

 

Go back four years, almost to the day. I was planning a winter walk along the Trans Pennine Way (TPT), somewhere local and mud free, getting some miles in the legs in preparation for the spring walking season. I was wondering why accommodation around Liverpool was booked up until I twigged that a mid-week European match was scheduled for the week that the Covid pandemic was spreading through continental Europe. Within days, Covid had arrived in Merseyside, lockdowns were on their way and the football season came to a sudden halt. As did my walking plans.

It was time to try again. The rain it raineth every day. The footpaths around the Peak District had become waterlogged and muddy bogland and there were few opportunities, on these short winter days, for long-distance multi-day trekking. Back to the TPT, a route around Merseyside and Greater Manchester on cycle paths and old railway lines that should avoid most of the slippery conditions. I had a four-day window in weather and family commitments so I concocted a schedule for getting the train to Southport and walking home or as near home as possible. Train tickets were booked and reservations were made for three nights’ accommodation. It all seemed so simple and it was until I turned up at the station for the early morning train only to find cancellations all round. Nothing was heading my way for 90 minutes, too late to make connections and completed a 16-mile afternoon dash. A desperate attempt to negotiate a taxi ride to Stockport initially came to nought. Then an Uber drew up to collect a couple who invited me to share their fare. I hopped in and was soon in the café on Stockport station eating a breakfast bap whilst waiting for a Liverpool train that was running very late, so late in fact that I might miss my next connection. The train made up some of the time deficit, enough for me to sprint across Liverpool Parkway and leap onto the Merseyside service to Southport. After much stress and tribulation, I arrived at the head of the trail with just about enough daylight to reach my first hotel.

 

 

Sunday 18^th February 2024             Southport – Netherton (Sefton)

Cob Pony and Trap on Old Railway

 

The sun was shining as I walked down to the seafront from Southport station. With no time for a café, I headed straight for the start of the trail. Pausing briefly have a selfie in front of the sun sculpture, I walked on for another mile to the trail head and the rather attractive metal sculptures around. Now for the serious part of the day, six or seven miles of promenade and roadside pavements and cycleways followed busy roads passed golf courses and Ainsdale. Cutting inland, the route followed a quiet country lane that eventually gave access to a wet farm track and a dismantled railway. Another six-mile stretch was mostly on solid ground with the occasional section of waterlogged and muddy going. The sun was low in the sky, the dog walkers were heading for home when suddenly a horse and trap appeared in the distance heading straight for me. This was driven by a very talkative chap who was keen to show off his sturdy little Cob horse, a beast that was bred for pulling horse-drawn carts and canal boats.

 

In the outskirts of Maghull, the old railway was blocked so a detour was necessary along some suburban streets. The line of the old railway was regained just before the trail turned away east through some quiet woodland. Darkness was falling fast and I was conscious of the need to reach civilisation before the light went completely. The district of Netherton is more a neighbourhood than a village. The Leeds & Liverpool canal runs through its centre and the trail uses a short stretch of the towpath. After half-a-mile, in near total darkness, I turned onto the Northern Perimeter Road to find the Premier Inn where I had a reservation. I had a very quick shower and change of clothes and then ventured next door to the Beefeater restaurant where a table reservation awaited.

 

Southport Station dep. 12.13, Netherton arr. 18.00

GPS 16.76 miles in 5hr 47mins 11secs walking time.

Stayed in the Liverpool North Premier Inn. My meal package was at the adjacent Beefeater Restaurant where I chose fish & chips & mushy peas, then apple pie & custard, The only real ale was Sharp’s Atlantic Pale Ale (4.5%).

 

 

Monday 19^th February 2024         Netherton  – Hale

I Just Met a Girl Called Maria

 

I could afford a less frenetic day with a similar mileage to yesterday but all day to complete it. After a pleasant lie in, I wandered round to the Beefeater for a full English breakfast and lots of coffee. The Perimeter Road took me back to the canal and its puddle-ridden towpath. Within minutes I climbed up to a road bridge and followed a dual-carriageway through the centre of Aintree. A brief excursion through some woods led to Aintree Station and then back onto the main road. A disused railway that crossed over this road was accessed via a loop to the east and a set of steps. This dismantled railway was to be my companion for the next ten miles passing through the eastern suburbs of Liverpool via West Derby and Knotty Ash on its way to Halewood. I had expected a dry passage but parts of the trail were entirely submerged and quite impassible without taking a paddle. I got into a good rhythm and started counting the miles. The only problem was that eventually my body started to demand a coffee break and there was absolutely nothing in front but a corridor of trees.

 

Eventually I came to an area which I recognised, the East Lancs Road and Queens Drive and the spectacular tower of St Matthew’s church, an area I knew from my frequent visits to watch United play Liverpool or Everton. A lovely section of the trail near Knotty Ash ran through a cutting where a fine building stood on the bridge dominating what must have been an old station. But still no café. I then fell into step with a lady out for her morning walk. She was moving smoothly along and we were soon exchanging our thoughts on the benefits of walking. I then told her of my need for a coffee and she immediately knew just where to go. Another mile, a right turn up a non-descript street and there was Millie’s café, standing like a miracle before me. I was so thankful that I asked her to join me for a coffee and we chatted on whilst I demolished a tuna melt panini. We parted as good friends, she to walk back home whilst I continued south into the Halewood Triangle. I had just met a girl called Maria.

 

The last section of the day was pretty dreary, firstly around a huge industrial park (there was even an AstraZeneca plant) and then across some very busy roads. The three-mile-long circumnavigation of Speke was a drag and it was a blessed relief to take a short cut across some soggy grassland onto the road to Hale. This was a charming little village in a flat area of farmland, quiet except for the planes that regularly skimmed the rooftops on their way to Liverpool Airport. My accommodation was slightly off-route on the northern edge of the village in a farm where many years ago I had parked our car whilst flying out of the airport. This time there was no parking, just an unmanned block of bedrooms. I was going to have to walk back into the village for a meal and drink, probable on unlit lanes. I was glad I had brought my torch. The things one must do for a pint!

 

Netherton dep. 09.41, Hale arr.16.22

GPS 16.81 miles in 6hrs 01mins 54secs walking time plus a 30 mins (13.00- 13.30) stop at Millie’s Café in Childwall.

Stayed at Lenox Farm, Ramsbrook Lane, Hale. Ate at the Childe of Hale, a Greene King pub near the church in the village. Chicken Tikka Masala with rice & chips followed by a Belgian waffle with ice cream and toffee sauce. The beer was Ruddles Best (3.7%).

 

 

Tuesday20^th February 2024             Hale – Lymm

A Power Station on the Fiddle

 

No breakfast was on offer. In fact, I saw no one in my entire stay on the farm. An early start was therefore a natural step. All I had to do was find a café. Nothing in the village except a small store selling sandwiches (yesterday’s). I set off up the main road towards Hale Bank clutching a stale ham and cheese butty. Heading for the coast passed the sewage works, the route emerged into Pickering’s Pasture, a beautifully landscaped parkland beside the Mersey estuary. Here I found a bench where I sat and ate my meagre breakfast. Round the next headland and under two bridges, one for trains and the second for motor traffic, the route passed an olde worlde area of Widnes with a pub, riverside gardens and an old fort. This led onto extensive grasslands below the Catalyst Museum and the entry lock into the St Helens Canal. I had read about trail diversions due to bridge repairs so I was relieved that, after traversing Spike Island, I could squeeze onto the canal towpath beyond the missing bridge. I was now faced for another of those long straight lines that was proving a feature on the TPT.

 

This section was dominated by the chimney and cooling towers of Fiddlers Ferry power station, which is due for demolition in the near future. Many years ago, after I had started a secondment from my old job, my first environmental assignment was here at Fiddlers Ferry conserving sand martin colonies in the ash lagoons. On and on I plodded going once more into café deficit syndrome. I knew however that there was a pub at the site of the old ferry. Horror of horrors, it was closed. Maybe my early start was working against me. I was too early for lunchtime opening. So, even more towpath had to be endured before the route turned into Sankey Park and then through a rather barren section of ex-industrial land. The trail crossed and recrossed the Mersey as it wound its way through the flatlands south of Warrington. Eventually I gained the banks of the Manchester Ship Canal and within a few hundred yards came to a Morrisons supermarket that hosted a coffee shop. It had been a very long morning,

 

Rain began to fall as I set out on the last stage of the day’s walk. Back on the Ship Canal towpath, I donned full rain gear, just in time for the heavier rain. Crossing Latchford swing bridge, the traffic was heavier than the rain but the road alongside the canal was a lot quieter. Underneath a railway viaduct high above the road, I realised that my onward route was up there along the dismantled line. The way up involved continuing along the road to Latchford locks, then taking a right turn into a side street and climbing a muddy track that gave vehicular access to the disused railway. Work vans had churned up the surface and, in the rain that was falling, it was becoming increasingly waterlogged and mud-filled. The going gradually improved and, after crossing under the M6, became an artificially-surfaced cycle route. With Statham Lodge Hotel to my left, I walked on for a further mile to the nearest exit point to Lymm village. Here I turned through the village outskirts to reach the humpbacked bridge over the Bridgewater canal. My pre-booked room was in the centre of the village almost next door to the Brewery Tap. There is a God!

 

Hale dep. 08.32, Lymm arr.16.00

GPS 17.71 miles in 6hrs 45mins 48secs walking time plus 30 mins (13.15 – 13.45) having coffee and cake in Morrisons in Wilderspool.

I had beautiful accommodation in Lymm Boutique Rooms. My evening started in the Brewery Tap where it was taster night. So, I was able to try Bridgewater Gold (4,0%), Chirotherium (5.5%) and Stamford Bitter (4.2%) before staggering over the road to the Spread Eagle for a superb meal, pan-fried seabass and apple crumble & ice cream and a pint of J W Lees MPA (3.7%).

 

 

Wednesday 21^st February 2024                   Lymm – East Didsbury       

Tales from the Riverbank

 

It was a case of industrial reluctance. After lying in bed listening to the rain hammering on the window lights of the attic room, I was slow to pack and step out into the dreich morning. Again, no breakfast was on offer but this time I had a café next door. A bacon bap in Cuppello’s was a luxury indeed especially as they put some Sibelius music on for me. Eventually I had to face the day and thankfully the rain had eased somewhat. Back on the TPT, a co-op store appeared within yards and I therein acquired a butty for my lunch. There was no evidence from the map of a café on route. Station Road at Heatley was totally underwater and I climbed fences to find a way round. It was too early in the day to get wet feet. A long straight stretch led passed Dunham Town and another brewery before disgorging me out onto some busy lanes that weaved through Altrincham Business Park and Dairyhouse Farm. Except for the flooding, the section provided little excitement. That was about to change.

 

A rutted lane passed Woodcote Farm and a sewerage works brought the designated route to an area of open ground offering the trail walker a choice. Whilst the bike route went round a track to Ash Farm, the walker’s route turned around a solar farm and out across this rough ground in a more direct line. However, the path across this wilderness was very hard to pick up and my initial attempt ended with me getting onto the wrong side of an uncrossable ditch. I finally located a muddy trod through some scrub that led into a waterlogged mire. So much for having dry feet. I was back into the sort of winter walking I had wanted to avoid, slipping and sliding around in glutinous mud. The housing estate where I came out was off-route and I had to take a diversion into some woodland to get onto a firm walking surface. Traffic lights helped in the crossing of the Carrington spur road to reach the access road to the Aston-on-Mersey sports fields. A brief excursion into a wood led to the dramatic footbridge over the Mersey. I was now very close to my childhood home over the far side of Urmston meadows. But today’s target lay in the other direction, along the riverbank and as far as I could get before dark.

 

The river level was as high as I have seen it for some years. The riverside track was wide and featureless as it followed the sweeping bends of the Mersey. A long afternoon session was in prospect. As I rounded one of these bends, a group of buildings came into view. As I got nearer, I could hardly believe my eyes. Here, in the middle of nowhere was a café in a shipping container, Riverbank Coffee. I sat briefly eating a lovely cake in a wooden shelter, sheltering from the rain. The TPT left the river at this point and followed cycle paths under the M60 and round Sale and Chorlton Water Parks, remote wetlands in the middle of South Manchester’s populous suburbia. Breaking out onto the Mersey again, near the Jackson’s Boat pub, the river weaved round huge meanders, passing Northenden and its golf courses and under the A34. A figure jogged slowly towards me in the late afternoon sunshine, a very familiar figure, Tony Wagg, friend, work colleague and walking companion of many years. In three minutes, we caught up with the last few years then I moved to continue. Tony warned me of flooding ahead where the riverside track had been overtopped by the fast-flowing river. I pressed on regardless and when I reached the underwater section, as day walkers turned back, I waded on through the calf deep river water and out onto dry ground beyond. When you only have a mile or so to go, you get less precious about keeping feet dry. At Simon’s Bridge, I dropped off the flood bank and onto a quiet lane into the centre of Didsbury, crossing Wilmslow Road and onto the path beside the Metrolink tram line. This led  to its terminus at East Didsbury where I crossed the line into the car park that defined the end of my journey. It was getting late and I was keen to get to Stockport as soon as possible and catch a train home. I had started in sunshine four days ago and finished in the last rays of a February sunset. Not too bad for a winter walk.

 

           

Lymm dep. 09.28, East Didsbury arr.16.45

GPS 18.88 miles in 7hrs 08mins 38secs walking time plus 15min at the Riverbank Café beside the Mersey near Stretford.

 

 

Conclusion

 

I soon found a bus stop and boarded a bus bound for Stockport. The half mile up to the railway station was steeper than anything I had confronted in the last four days. A Northern train was due so I was soon winging my way to Macclesfield where I found the Redwillow bar very difficult to get passed. So, I slipped in for a pint of Headless (3.9%) and then waited for my wife and her kind offer of a lift home.

 

In total, I had completed 70 miles over the four days, 67 of which were on the Trans Pennine Trail. I had a wet finish to day 3 and a very wet start to day 4, but a total of three out of four dry and, in the main, sunny days is more than I could have hoped for in such a wet winter. The walking was flat and fast and, except for one or two sections, firm and dry underfoot. It was far more interesting than I had feared with some sections of delightful countryside. The hard surfaces were cruel to my feet and I ended up with tender soles and the odd blister. But for a winter trek avoiding the bottomless mud of the north of England’s rights of way, it was a most successful venture and I shall be back next winter, DV, for the next section, up Longdendale and over the Pennines into Yorkshire.

 

 

 

 

Tyne & Wear, Durham & Tees Valley Coast Path

5^th -  9^th November 2023

 

Introduction

 

When we finished the first leg of the England Coast Path last May, having walked from Berwick to Blyth, Mike had shown little enthusiasm for the next section through the more industrial and suburban landscapes of Tyneside and Durham. So, it was to be a solo effort from now on, an ideal project for the autumn months. I was due a visit to see my daughter and her family in Scotland in November so I combined my trip to include a return journey via the east coast. Having said my goodbyes to the grandchildren, I slipped out of the house in Ayr and caught a bus to Kilmarnock, this seeming my best choice as the local railway station had been burnt down. The bus was running late and I had to make haste to the station to catch the Carlisle train. This also ran late and arrived in Carlisle leaving only a few minutes to race up the platform and leap onto the Newcastle connection. For my pains I was then informed that my senior rail card was not valid from a station having ticketing facilities, even though the train service had left me no time to use them. Life is not meant to be fair.

 

An entrance to the Newcastle Metro system is right outside Central Station and a kindly lad talked me through using the ticket machine. The train to Whitley Bay seemed to go a long way round and a change was needed before I arrived. The town looked very quiet, not what I had expected for a Saturday night. At the Windsor Hotel, my pre-booked accommodation, the receptionist told me that their restaurant was fully booked. She also added that I would do better anyway over the road in an Italian restaurant, the Glass House. Here I was made most welcome and enjoyed a dish of chicken bordelaise and a couple of pints of Staropramen. I was fed and watered and, with an early night, in a good place to begin the  next stage of the England Coast Path.

 

 

Sunday 5^th November 2023    Blyth South Beach – South Shields

Fireworks on Tyneside

No breakfast was on offer so, on a bright and breezy morning, I made an early start from the Windsor Hotel and walked up into Whitley Bay town centre. I grabbed a coffee from Greggs and jumped on the  Sunday morning bus to Blyth. At South Beach, just a mile or so before the town, I dismounted, crossed over the grass to the promenade and regained the point where last May’s walk had terminated. I was back on the England Coast Path. Pausing firstly to look at the gun batteries above the sea front, and secondly to grab another cup of coffee from a mobile cafe, I was away along a made-up path behind the dunes and over grassland to Seaton Sluice.  Crossing the sluice bridge, a road to the left headed back to the coast and a section of easy cliff-top walking to Whitley Bay. The promenade was quite busy, the morning sunshine bringing out day trippers. As I passed the end of South Parade, I was back to where I stayed last night.

 

It got even busier on the headland round to Tynemouth. The square in front of the priory and castle was packed out and there was little chance of getting a quiet lunch in one of the many cafes in Tynemouth Village. Traffic was at standstill and all the outside tables were occupied. I had no alternative but to keep going down the hill to the river and along the riverside promenade round to Clifford’s Fort. No cafes appeared on the seafront but there was a row of restaurants and pubs along Fish Quay and one of these, Allard’s on the Quay, offered a flatbread sandwich and a drink of Neck Oil. The chicken platter was huge so I was not in any need of further refreshment before the crossing of the Tyne. 

The ferry terminal was only ten minutes along the river and I was in perfect time for the 2pm crossing. In the sunny conditions the river, its boats and riverside buildings all looked a picture. The south bank was a regenerated area of new domestic developments, rather soulless and short of people and infrastructure. The signed route took to riverside streets and I was soon back at the mouth of the Tyne at a hotel at Little Haven. Here the main promenade was picked up, covered in sand and pebbles from the last storms to hit this coastline. At the junction with South Pier, I called a halt to the day’s walk and set off inland, passed an indoor swimming pool and through North Marine Park, in search of Urfa Terrace and my accommodation for the night. It had been a good start to the week.

 

Blyth South Beach dep. 09.06, South Shields arr. 15.00

GPS 12.47 miles in 4hr 37mins 39secs walking time and 45 mins in Allard’s restaurant at Fish Quay.

Stayed in Kingsmead Guest House, Urfa Terrace, South Shields. As it went dark I ventured down to Ocean Road and the centre of town. It was pandemonium. It seemed that half of Tyneside was walking towards the park and the firework display and it like walking against a football crowd as I explored the pubs and eating houses. The real ale pub was full to the gunnels but I eventually found a quiet Indian restaurant, Delhi 6, where I ordered lamb curry and two pints of Cobra. Bangs and flashes went on late into the night.

 

 

Monday 6^th November 2023         South Shields – Seaham

A Bridge for the Mackems

 

It was a beautiful morning. I had a full English breakfast cooked by the owner of the guest house, a Cornishman who had moved north because he found the climate and the people more clement. I returned across the park and passed the swimming pool and walked some way down the pier. A right turn took me onto another storm-littered promenade and a traverse of boggy grassland led into the dunes and cliff-top path. A guy walking towards me pointed out the boats behind emerging from the  River Tyne. One, he was sure, was a Type 23 frigate, the Iron Duke, heading out to sea. The section round to Souter Lighthouse and beyond was a magnificent piece of coastal walking. The houses of Whitburn were inland as the path gradually converged with the road at South Bents. The shore-line rocks were alive with seabirds feeding in the shallow water. Then it was more promenades and holiday makers. Here were a few cafes but it was too early for a coffee so I walked on, a decision I would come to regret.

 

Soon the mouth of the River Wear came into view and the coast path turned into the marina and all the new residential developments. A momentary return to street walking was soon ended by a passage down to the river and the university buildings. The route was blocked at the glass museum and, with no diversion route indicated, some locals directed me through a car park and beyond. The bridges of Sunderland now dominated the river landscape and, having passed an amazing metal tree, a steep road led up to Wearmouth Bridge. My search for a town centre café was thwarted as the signed route turned immediately left along the south bank of the river and into back streets and little used buildings. A sign indicates the turn into Old Sunderland. It was just as deserted and café-free as the rest of my passage through Sunderland. A lovely church, Holy Trinity, stood on the Town Moor and within half a mile, I was on the main road out of the city.

 

Fortunately, there was a small shop, Asian run as they all seem to be, that sold me a sandwich and a cake. I carried these for a further mile passed the Raich Carter Sports Centre and under the railway back to the coast at Hendon Beach.  Here was the ideal spot for a rest and the long-awaited refreshment stop. The day’s walk finished with a straightforward three mile stretch of cliff-top grassland broken only by two inland diversions to avoid steep-sided valleys of emerging streams. At the outskirts of Seaham, a road-side promenade took the route passed East Shore Village, a new development of shops and houses built on an old colliery. The town centre is dominated by a square, a war memorial and the huge metal sculpture of a soldier, ‘Tommy’. Further on was a large shopping development and right in the centre of this was my accommodation, Londonderry’s, an unmanned guest house above an Indian restaurant.

 

South Shields dep. 09.12, Seaham arr.16.00

GPS 17.59 miles in 6hrs 25mins 17secs walking time plus a 15 mins stop at Hendon Beach.

Stayed at Londonderry’s Bar & Accommodation in Seaham and walked back along the coast road to the Crows Nest at East Shore Village for steak pie and chips and more Neck Oil.

 

 

Tuesday 7^th November 2023             Seaham – Seaton Carew

Hanging the Monkey

The one certainty of an unmanned hotel is no breakfast. However, a Costas café was across the road so I was easily able to find a bacon bap and an early morning coffee. Just before 9am I was striding out down the seafront on another bright morning. The weather was behaving itself remarkable well. In planning this stage, I had been aware of the length of the days walk but it all looked very straightforward, an easy trek along a rather featureless coastline. Little did I know what I was in for. It started mildly enough with a gentle and flat walk beside the coast road and then beside the railway after the road had turned inland, but then the fun started. The coastal cliffs were punctuated by a series of steep-sided valleys where streams flowed through the cliffs and down to the sea. In these valleys, similar to the clines of the south coast, were impenetrable woodland and scrub, wildlife habitats called denes. Some of these denes were avoided by long detours inland to the railway and even to the coast road. Others were crossed by steep and slippery steps, descending into the jungle and then scrambling up the other side. One had no steps, just steep muddy slopes where a dignified passage was impossible. I still have the thorns from hauling myself up through the brambles. So, what was to be a long but pleasant stroll turned out to be an epic expedition, one of the biggest challenges I have faced this year.

 

The most extensive of these areas was Castle Eden Dene, a National Nature Reserve, a flat and marshy outlet for two steep-sided streams. A spectacular viaduct carried the railway over the gorge. Having just climbed out of here, I met a walker, a pigeon fancier, who told me that there was a café at the end of this section of coast path. With renewed enthusiasm, I negotiated one last dene and sped down through a holiday park and into the car park at Crimdon. There, as promised, was the Dunes Café, a lovely place for a well-earned coffee and cake. Then it was downhill to the county border and across into the area now known as Tees Valley. I had taken longer than expected to complete this section of the coast and the sun was low in the autumn sky.

 

By the time I reached Hartlepool Headland and its white wind turbines shining in the bay, the afternoon was well advanced and I still had many miles to go. I turned around the fort and lighthouse, through a lovely area of old houses and then into a dreary industrial zone alongside a busy and featureless road. It was a relief to turn into the marina, passing an old sailing ship and many new hotels and office blocks. It was nearly dark as I skirted round the rather lovely yacht marina and out past new flats onto the promenade This wide walk and cycle way, lit all the way by street lights ran the two miles or so into Seaton Carew. And just when it re-joined the coast road, there on the other side of the busy carriageway, was my accommodation for the night, the Staincliffe Hotel. I was given a lovely welcome by the staff and looked forward to a nice stay.

 

Seaham dep. 08.55, Seaton Carew arr.17.05

GPS 20.31 miles in 7hrs 33mins 33secs walking time plus 35mins having coffee and cake in the Dunes Café in Crimdon.

I staying in the Staincliffe Hotel on the seafront at Seaton Carew. My Google enquiries indicated a pub called the Drunken Duck, inland in a suburban housing estate, to be my nearest eating house. I set off in the dark up quiet streets and had to ask directions. I was pointed towards a tiny bar in a row of shops where everyone was watching Newcastle United on TV. I found a quiet corner and enjoyed a barbequed chicken pizza and a couple of pints on Staropramen. An early night was very welcome.

 

Wednesday 8^st November 2023                  Seaton Carew - Middlesborough   

Dinosaurs by the River

           

Wandering down for an 8am breakfast, I found the hotel manager on his own in the dining room. The chef had burnt his fingers and was off to hospital so the manager himself cooked a full English. He was a lovely man and we chatted for far too long. I had a walk to do and, as I left the hotel, he whispered ‘Baker Street in Middlesborough for micropubs’. The forecast was for rain before lunch but it was dry with a biting wind as I started off down the seafront and onto Seaton Dunes Nature Reserve. Then a heavy shower came through and waterproofs were donned but by the time I reached the power station, it had passed over and the sky appeared to be brightening. As I passed the entry road to the power station and Teesmouth Field Centre, many happy memories flooded back from my time working here. But I did not have time to call in. There was a long road ahead.

 

The Transporter Bridge was visible from miles around so it seemed to take an age to reach it following the very busy road, sometimes on pavements, sometimes on a grassy verge and at other times on paths that ran through the adjacent fields. South of Saltholme, the signed path looped round a factory and onto an old railway track that came out at the access road to the Transporter Bridge. This was closed to traffic and the high-level crossing of the walkway had to be pre-booked. I was faced a horrendous road walk through Billingham and round to Newport Bridge. Firstly, however, I came across a post office and Londis store and popped in to buy a sandwich and coffee. During the hour-long tramp through in industrial parks, I had time to book a bed for the night in Middlesborough, my target for the day. It was a heartening moment when I crossed the Tees and turned away from all the traffic and onto the south bank of the river.

 

At the tip of a bend in the river, the coast path turned into the Port of Middlesborough passing through a delight full, Teessaurus Park, featuring amongst other steel dinosaurs a colourful Stegosaurus. A lovely old diesel engine called ‘Eleanor’ was on show in front of one of the factories. The Transporter Bridge overlooked this industrialised area. It had taken six miles and two hours to walk round from one side to the other. Then the football ground came into view and I chose the Riverside Stadium as the point to finish today’s walk and head into the city centre. Paths under the railway and major roads brought me out into the city and I soon found the address of my guest house. But I had no idea how to gain access. I had to ring the owner and obtain the key code and entry procedures: my booking website had not yet sent the details.

 

Seaton Carew dep. 09.01, Middlesborough arr.15.10

GPS 16.00 miles in 5hrs 51mins 44secs walking time plus 15min outside a shop in Port Clarence.

Stayed in a guest house in the city centre, 143 Albert Road, Middlesborough.

The next street was Baker Street, the place recommended to me last night. I popped into the Twisted Lip and nearly spent all night there. A micropub with three hand pumps and a fantastic bottled beer collection. I first tried Can’t Let Go (3.8%) from Wensleydale Brewery, Leyburn, then Blonde Star (4.1%) from Anarchy Brew Co., Newcastle, and finished with a Tonkoko Milk Stout (4.3%) from Brew York. When I asked about a local eating house, the owners Erica and Saul recommended Uttapam, an Indian in Borough Road just round the corner. Erica took me round and Saul came and joined me for a meal. I had their fish curry and garlic naan and a small bottle of Kingfisher Premier Lager.

 

 

Thursday 9^th November 2023                      Middlesborough – Saltburn

End of the Line

 

Once again there was no breakfast on offer. But I had a train to catch and this provided an opportunity for a very early start and take breakfast on-route. Soon after 8am, I was back on the streets of Middlesborough looking for a take-away coffee. Very little was open and a queue had formed in the only café I passed. I pressed on, back under the road and railway and out to the Riverside Stadium. The signage led me passed the football ground and onto an industrial road running parallel to the train track. The route switched to the other side of the railway line via a level crossing and then ran for miles and miles beside the track in an endless narrow passage which became quite claustrophobic after an hour and a half. South Bank Station was bypassed and many road junctions could be sensed overhead. The Teesdale Way also used this passage and periodic metal sculptures lined the route. Then a pipeline formed the right-hand margin and heavy industry was all around. The path was waterlogged in parts and I did not escape with dry feet. Eventually an industrial metal walkway crossed over the pipeline and a muddy path led away from the railway. It was a great relief to reach some steps and climb back into the upper world.

 

A few yards up the road was a mobile café from which the smell of bacon emanated but the queue was even longer here than in town. Pressing on towards Coatham Marsh, I was taken aback by the blocked entrance. It was nearly half a mile to the next gate and then the route across the rough grassland was unsigned. From a low ridge, I finally spotted the footbridge over the railway and from thence, crossing of the marsh was straightforward. In a small industrial site at Warrenby was a small café in a wooden hut. Although the lady had no proper coffee machine, she made a mighty bason and sausage bap and my fast was over. Much energised, I speeded over Cleveland golf course and along the dunes into Redcar. The sun was shining and the promenade was busy with holiday makers. More metal sculptures lined the seafront, these much larger than the earlier ones.

 

I now was happy that I would catch my pre-booked train home, so I started looking for another café but none appealed along the promenade until a square building on the links grassland tempted me off route. The café inside was heaving with tourists and day trippers and I moved disconsolately further down the coast. A guy carrying a coffee told me that a mobile van was just ahead but I failed to locate it in the bustling car park. On I went and was soon at Marske, where I knew from Google that a cafe lay half a mile inland. ‘In The Dog House’ proved a worthy diversion and a toastie and chocolate café were wolfed down. Returning to the coast path at St Germain’s churchyard where the tower and gravestones looked quite  picturesque in the afternoon sun, I suddenly realised that I had spent too long in the café. When a lady walker warned me that the path ahead was virtually impassable, I began to panic. After having all this time in hand, I was now in danger of missing the train. I ploughed on through bottomless muddy gateways and jogged along the cliff top path. Then there was an endless set of steps down to Saltburn Sands. Along the promenade and passed the pier, I paused momentarily to assure myself of the route to Saltburn Station then it was up a steep road and more concrete steps to the higher part of the town and the approach to the station. The train was standing at the platform and I had hardly time to settle into my seat before my journey home was underway. The second section of the North East Coast Path had been successfully completed.

 

Middlesborough dep. 08.03, Saltburn arr. 14.45

GPS 15.35 miles in 5hrs 36mins 12secs walking time with 35 mins In The Dog House in Marske.                 

 

 

Conclusion

 

The TransPennine Express, not my favourite rail company, did the business and, despite a landslip line closure at Dewsbury, managed the re-routing via Wakefield and was not too late into Manchester. Lots of trains at rush hour so I jumped onto a Cross Country to Macclesfield and was rather pleased to be reunited with my wife. I had been away a long time.

 

Walking 81 miles in 5 days pleased me greatly, 78 miles of these were along the England Coast Path. In four visits to the coast this year, I have probable done 300 miles of coast path or so. This section I had just completed provided far superior walking than I had expected. The Seaham to Hartlepool section was as good a coastal walk as you can get. And I met such a lot of nice people, perhaps it is true that the North Easterners are some of the friendliest in Britain. I shall be back next year (DV) to tackle the Cleveland Way and the high cliffs of the North Yorkshire Moors.