Pennine Way (Part 1)

16-20^th April 2009

Introduction

Gosh, doesn’t time fly. Almost twelve months to the day from being picked up from last year’s walk, here we were back at Sparklow. Jill, who had rescued us last year, again provided the transport and as she drove away leaving us in the cold and mist, the intervening year just melted away.

So at 9.15am Mike and I resumed our annual pilgrimage, which we later calculated as our 10^th year. This had all begun in the 1990’s at Minehead when we started the SW Peninsula Way. This had later developed into an End-to-End saga. Last year our trek up the Mid-shires Way had ended at Sparklow, our nearest point to home. In planning the route up through the country, the Pennine Way was de rigueur; all we had to do now was get to Edale.

Thursday 16^th April 2009: The Missing Link

It was 9.15am when Jill dropped us in the car park at Sparklow on the High Peak Trail. She drove away into a mist and we put on all our warm gear to protect ourselves from a biting east wind and rain blowing in the air. The first mile and a half was up the High Peak Trail to its end near Pomeroy. Then we crossed the main Ashbourne – Buxton road and set out along lanes and tracks to Chelmorton. At this village, we left the Mid-shires Way, which had been our faithful guide throughout the previous year. Not wanting to lose our theme of following national trails, we quickly transferred up a footpath passed the church onto the Pennine Bridleway. We did not know what to expect with this; was it to be all tracks and roads and sore feet? In fact it was remarkable satisfying. It took us along ancient walled paths, which we had not used before. One particular section, a long curving descent into Monks Dale was particularly attractive. This took us to familiar ground and we were soon having our first lunch break in Hay Dale.

Then it was on to Peak Forest and Mam Nick. We found it hard to follow the Conies Farm route over the moors. We ended up too far east and had to use the track passed Rowter Farm to get back on route. There was a bit of light rain and it remained cold. But it warmed up a bit as we descended into Edale. We went straight to our B&B but there was no-one in so we came back to the cafe at the railway station. I had had good reports of this tea shop from a friend whose eyes, I assume, were more on the waitress than the cake. Still no-one at the B&B so this time we tried the visitor centre and the Nags Head. Mike and I took turns in going back down to the digs until finally, just before 6pm, our lady arrived and let us into our rooms. She had rung home to warn us of the late arrival and Rachel had texted me. But by the time I put my mobile on, we were in Edale and out of network coverage. I was not to get this message until tomorrow lunchtime. We tried the Ramblers for a meal and washed down the steak and ale pie with a few pints of real ale. Then a very early night; we had an early start planned for the morning.

Sparklow dep. 09.15

Lunch in Hay Dale 12.30-12.45

Edale arr. 15.05

GPS: 17.71 miles in 5hrs 31.30

We stayed at Mam Tor House, Edale, Hope Valley, Derbyshire, S33 7ZA

Mrs Caroline Jackson, Tel: 01433 670253

Friday 17^th April 2009: The Mega Day

We breakfasted at 7.30am so that we were ready to move at just after 8am. The clag was still down on the tops as we skirted round to Upper Booth. By the time we reached the top of Jacob’s Ladder we were in mist and it had got very cold. So thick was the mist that I overshot the left turn to Edale Rocks and we were at the Anvil Stone before we realised our error so we compassed across Kinder, passing I assume to the east of Kinder Low. A clough led off in the right direction so I prayed that we were in the upper reaches of Red Brook and plunged down. It was with great relief that we came out on the edge path at the familiar Red Brook crossing. I was now on very familiar ground as we rapidly traversed round the edge and down to Mill Hill. Here the mist began to clear, or at least we were now beneath it.

I had not been looking forward to the next section. Over the years I had battled with Featherbed Moss usually in the dawn light of a High Peak Marathon. It was amazingly transformed. No longer was it a matter of picking your away across a wet and eroded moor. Ahead of us stretched a line of stone flags and on either side the ground had been reseeded or had recovered naturally. We could have had road shoes on for the next four miles. In no time we were crossing the Snake and continuing on the flagstones towards Hern Clough. Thank goodness the Clough was still as I remember it although so much drier. The mist was now clear of the summit and Bleaklow Stones was easy to locate. The path beyond certainly was not. Within seconds we had gone too far along the watershed path and found ourselves having to compass back to the top of Torside Clough. This was just as rugged a descent as I remembered, if not more so. As we came round the edge of the Clough, the east wind caught us as it hit this steep face. It was a relief to get down into Longendale where we crossed the Trans Pennine Trail, then the wall of the dam before lunching on the north side of the reservoir in the hot sunshine.

Switching my mobile on, I was surprised to find two messages awaiting us. I knew that Rachel had texted us yesterday about the late arrival of our Edale hosts, but there was also a message from Eric Landon of Wellcroft House enquiring about our ETA for tonight. So I rang him to give him a progress report. He offered to come up to Standedge to meet us, a very kind and welcome offer. Meanwhile we had the small matter of Black Hill and 12 miles of moorland to traverse. It was very warm as we struggled up to Laddow Rocks but we met the cold east wind again on the edges and this kept us cool for the rest of the crossing. From the top of Crowden Brook a line of flagstones took us to the summit of Black Hill and beyond. Again I marvelled at the change. Instead of the huge black morass of peat that used to surround the trig point, now the plateau was green and vegetated.

The flagstones took away the navigation requirements and dropped us down to the road and another deviation from the original line of the Pennine Way. We were directed right along the road and then down the trail passed Wessenden Reservoir. We were careful to find the correct way across the steep-sided clough and up onto Marsden Moor but then it was an easy few miles to our day’s finish at the car park at Standedge. Here we rang Eric and minutes later were in his car back to the wonderful weaver’s cottage that they own. Pots of tea, biscuits and good conversation soon put the efforts of the day behind us. We had survived and put Kinder, Bleaklow and Black Hill behind us in one day. Our feet were in good nick and we had actually enjoyed the experience. So to Susan’s wonderful meal and another early night (alcohol-free this time!).

We learned that it is Susan’s normal practice to prepare a dinner for PW walkers coming from the south that can be easily re-warmed at such time of the night as they collapse in through the front door (or have to be rescued by Eric’s 4X4 from some desolate bit of blacked-out moor!). To their astonishment, we arrived before the meal was even ready, and told us we had the “record” of their guests coming from Edale.

Edale dep. 08.08

Lunch in Longendale 13.15-13.37

Standedge arr. 17.50

GPS 28.5mls in 9hrs 20.48

We stayed at Wellcroft House, Bleak Hey Nook, Delph, Standedge, Saddleworth, OL3 5LY

Eric and Susan Landon, Tel: 01457 875017

Saturday 18^th April 2009: Travelling Light, Very Light

The day started well enough. We rose early and packed our bags before breakfast. Susan made us a super fry-up and Eric offered to take us back up to the high point of the A62. I fussed about resetting the GPS ready for the day’s walk and had the satellite location operative as we drove back up the hill. So I leapt out of the car at Standedge car park fiddling with the device. The last thing on my mind was by rucksack sitting on Eric’s back seat. I did not remember until he was driving away down the road. My efforts of running after him waving my arms were in vain. My phone, money, everything had disappeared into the distance. Mike collapsed in laughter, took a photo of me, and then dug out his ancient low-tech mobile and his copy of Eric’s phone number. It was a very cold spot to wait, but soon Eric arrived back also with a big smile on his face. My attempt to travel light would fuel Mike’s conversation for the rest of the trip.

Rather later than intended, we set off along the western ridges towards the motorway. A cold east wind was still blowing but the clouds were a bit higher and beginning to burn away, After crossing the M62 footbridge the route turned west and up to Blackstone Edge. The Aiggin stone was found successfully and this pointed us down to the White House. Thus ended a very long and demanding moorland section stretching all the way back to Edale. And to celebrate, the sun came out and the day got a lot hotter. Now we were on flat trails through the reservoirs with the prospect of Stoodley Pike getting slowly nearer. We had never realised that one can access a balcony around the pike but we saw people above us as we approached. So we sought out the stars (pitch black!) and were soon up there with them, having our photo taken to prove it. A long and pleasant descent into the Calder Valley brought us to Callis Bridge and the main road.

Then began a long and arduous climb passed shelves of cottages and hamlets. The way was not obvious so we paused for lunch whilst we consulted maps and guidebooks. The lady whose front wall we were sitting on returned while we ate and assured us that we were still on route. So we continued up over the ridge and down into the delightful Colden Clough. This led to another climb, this time onto a wonderful remote moor that eventually brought us to a road. This took us to Walshaw Reservoir and the path up to Top Withins. Finding another photo opportunity, we continued on and down towards Howarth, turning left down to Ponden before we reached the village. Ponden Guest House looked empty but we finally found Brenda and she made us a pot of tea and then showed us up to our room. We had a good look through her photograph album of the building of Ponden House. The paintings on the walls were staggering. Her ex-husband, she told us, was at Bradford Art College with David Hockney.

She then went out for the evening leaving us to lock up and make our way over to the Old Silent Inn where we had reserved at table. I found the Golden Fleece from Black Sheep very much to my taste and had several refills whilst I tackled my fish and chips. In the very last of the dusk, we made our way slowly but happily back to the digs and a very comfortable night’s sleep.

Standedge dep. 08.29

Lunch in Calderdale 13.15-13.40

Ponden arr. 17.05

We stayed at Ponden House, Stanbury, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD22 0HR.

Brenda Taylor Tel: 01535 644154.

Sunday 19^th April 2009: Our First Tea Shop

It promised to be not such a long day today so we had a slightly later breakfast and a more leisurely preparation for the day’s walk. The weather looked good, with clear skies and a less biting east wind. It was nice to get going and warm up as we went round the end of Ponden reservoir, along the road and then up the long climb of the north side of the valley. We were back on flagstones for the crossing of Ickornshaw Moor then a long gradual decent took us past a farm with dogs, pigs, chickens and geese with tufted crest feathers. Down and down we went passed little wooden cabins all newly creosoted and well kept; we assume these are shooting cabins. Eventually we reached the main road near Cowling and went through a small hamlet and up onto high farmland. Here we were overtaken by a couple of lads out for a run. One was training for the Three Peaks Race the following weekend.

One of the highlights of the route so far was the drop into Lothersdale, with the village laid out below us in the sunshine. It was really getting hot now and pullovers and thermal were stripped off to leave us in singlet shirts for the first time. (Mike still wanted his gloves on!). There followed a marvellous traverse of Pinhaw Beacon where we met an 88-year old fellow who was nobly struggling up to the summit for his morning constitutional. The descent into Thornton was gentle and long and not that easy to follow. We ignored an unmarked footbridge to the right only to have to climb back to it after we found that this was the intended route of the Pennine Way. Two more unsigned fields passed before we picked up signs indicating we were on a National Trail. It was a hot summer’s day in Thornton, with bluebells out and gardens in full bloom. A gentle field system took us down the canal near East Marton and we then had a mile-long tramp along the towpath. It was time for lunch and we sat with our legs dangling over the water eating the lovely butties made for us by Brenda at Ponden. A sign on the next canal bridge announced the presence of a nearby teashop, our first on the entire route so far. So we lengthened our lunch break to do justice to a large pot of tea as we sat in the garden in the sunshine.

Another set of fields led us to a delightful looking village, Gargrave, which had two more tea-shops on route. It was like waiting for a bus; walk 80 miles without a smell of tea and cakes, and then three come at once. A mile beyond Gargrave on the most obvious of fields, I made another off-route excursion. Compassing across fields is not the best practice so Mike whispered some common sense into my ear and we turned sharp left and uphill to find our path. Once reinstated, we quickly descended into the Aire Valley and picked up a pleasant grassy riverside path through Airton to Hanlith. Here we were hailed by an ice-cream seller who was just packing up but would hold fire a few seconds if we wanted a couple of cones. A horse show was packing up around us and it had the feel of the end of a hot summer’s day as everyone was setting off home. We set off up a rather unexpected hill but this gave us a splendid view down to Malham as we approached the end of our day.

The United - Everton semi-final was on the radio as we booked into Beck Hall so we were quickly shown to our room where I was left desperately trying to master the TV ‘on’ switch. By the time I mastered the technology, we were in extra time and the most embarrassing set of penalties United have ever executed. In many ways I was glad to get down to the Lister Arms and Wainwright beer from Thwaites. The roast pork was great and I even had a vase of flowers tipped down my back. What a marvellous and varied day it had been.

Ponden dep. 08.33

Lunch on canal 13.15-14.05

Malham arr. 17.15

GPS 24.04 in 7hr 57.08

We stayed at Beck Hall, Cove Road, Malham, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 4DJ

Alice and Simon Maufe, Tel. 01729 830332

Monday 20^th April 2009: Back on Limestone

What a magnificent morning! Under another cloudless sky we left Malham and climbed the road towards the Cove. As we dropped down the grassy path into the Cove itself, we were the only people in sight. The two of us alone in front of one of the most wonderful sights in the country. The steps up the limestone crag kick-started our metabolisms for the day. I got out my sun hat, and Mike took off his gloves! The sun was beginning to search us out in this vast white landscape. We were soon up at Malham Tarn where, except for one motor scooter, we were once more the only people around. It was an easy walk around the lake and up the grassy valley beyond. Fountains Fell began to dominate the way ahead. The day got really warm as we toiled up to the highest point near two piles of stones. We sat for a moment having a drink and a snack and then trotted down the other side gazing wondrously across at Penyghent. The modern route takes you down to the road and then a long section of tarmac leads up to Dalehead.

The approach to Penyghent was spectacular with a group of walkers spread out like spiders on the ridge above. We were soon up there with them and joined several other parties on the summit. We eat the last of our emergency rations and began our last descent, the long drop into Horton. We had over an hour to wait for the train so we adjourned to the café famous for the 3 Peaks. I could not resist Betty’s Spicy Bread and Butter Pudding, given more body with a blob of ice cream. I changed my clothes in the public toilets and then joined the general exodus towards the station. A Leeds man was extremely interested in our walking exploits and we swapped stories all the way back.

We caught the 15.30 train to Leeds and made a quick connection onto a Manchester train. This left us ahead of schedule and we shocked Jill be arriving at Macclesfield Station 25 minutes before she expected us. But we were very glad of a lift home and a nice cup of tea. Then it was off to dog training for Mike. A super route in super weather. How can we beat that next year?

Malham dep. 08.43

Lunch on Fountains Fell

Horton arr. 14.15

GPS 14.74 in 5hrs 10.00