Mary Towneley Loop & Pennine Bridleway (Part 2)

Worsthorne - Settle    19^th – 22^nd March 2019

Introduction

Last November, just before the dark nights of winter had set in, I made a start on the Pennine Bridleway. I walked for four days from Cromford to Summit, a total of 80 miles. Having sat out the winter now was the time to resume this National Trail. But there is an added complication in that completion of this trail involves the inclusion of the Mary Towneley Loop, a 47 mile circuit of the moors north of Rochdale. I therefore had to plan a completion of this circuit before pushing north on the main route.

Tuesday 19^th March 2019                 Worsthorne - Whitworth

A Foot in the Water

I was up early (for me) so that Jill could run me down to the station for the 08.02 train to Manchester. This took an age to get into Piccadilly leaving me with a very brisk walk over to Victoria and no time to grab a coffee before embarking on a train to Burnley. There was no taxi at Manchester Road Station so I walked into the town centre looking for the bus station and some transport out to the suburbs. There, I came across the taxi rank so I leapt into the taxi on pole and was in Worsthorne within 10 minutes. The village shop made me a cappuccino to take out and this I duly drank as I set off on my next venture.

My route started with a steady climb up Gorple Lane, in a straight line for 1½ miles up to the Mary Towneley Loop. I continued eastwards for a further ½ mile to the fingerpost where the Pennine Bridleway breaks out north from this loop. Then I retraced my steps and set off on an anti-clockwise circuit, heading downwards to Hurstwood Reservoir, crossing some wet pastureland before dropping steeply down slippery paths into Holme Chapel. The sound of children at play accompanied me as I passed the local school and crossed the road, river and railway in the valley bottom. The climb out of the valley was long, wet and complex and my boots were thick with mud by the time I crested the climb and came across the stone erected as a monument to Mary Towneley, the instigator of this bridle route for horse, bike and walker.

A cold wind was blowing over the tops as I sought the start of the footpath system that descended into the next valley and the village of Lumb. There was no café here so I continued onwards on semi-suburban paths on the other side of the main road. I passed through the housing estates of Edgeside and down to Waterfoot School and a tuckshop that was closed. I was beginning to despair for a coffee shop. I stopped a local and asked the vital question and was delighted when he directed me off-route to the Old Library Café, a wonderful find where I indulged in Bakewell tart and a cappuccino.

What I did not expect was the ferocity of the next climb. On concrete and then on rough stony tracks, the route went up and up into an area of disused quarries and mines. The route threaded itself between spoil heaps around the edge of a featureless plateau. It remained bleak to the Top of Leach and across Rooley Moor. As I descended southwards, it was disheartening to be heading back towards the distant Manchester skyline, especially as I was supposed to be progressing northwards. The sun was low in the sky by the time I reached Catley Lane Head where a left turn took me down through remote farms to the river in the valley bottom. Here I left the trail and went into Whitworth looking for my accommodation.

 

Worsthorne dep. 10.25, Whitworth arr. 17.45

GPS 20.18 miles in 6hrs 59mins 00secs walking time plus 30 mins at the Old Library Cafe in Waterfoot (14.45-15.15).

I stayed in the Red Lion in Whitworth where the kitchens were closed, permanently it appeared. The Birches, a pub a mile down the road, provided me with Atlantic Pale Ale (4.2%) from Sharp’s, and a wonderful Thai meal of green fish curry, cooked by a Thai woman who operates out of the pub kitchen.

 

Wednesday 20^th March 2019                    Whitworth – Hebden Bridge

Return to the Summit

There was no breakfast and no one in the Red Lion next morning. So I let myself out of the front door and posted the keys back through the letterbox. It was a damp and misty morning and I could feel water droplets on my face. The hills were hidden in the gloom as I wandered into the village looking for a sandwich but again there was nothing open. Whitworth seemed to be permanently closed. So I turned back to where I had left the trail on the previous evening and continued through Healey Dell to Broadley. The first climb of the day reared up at me and I was soon in the mist stumbling over Rushy Hill. I did not see the golf club house until I fell over it in the fog.

Here the trail signage gave out. A fingerpost was lying on the ground and a complex set of tracks ran into some old quarries. A Rossendale Way sign took me onto the path toward Brown Wardle and I had to cross rough moor to get back onto the correct track. The mist was lifting and I began to get some views. In fact the sun was breaking through and the temperature was rising. It seemed a long way before the anticipated right-hand turn was reached. I was beginning to think the signs were missing from this section. But finally I came to a fingerpost and turned east wards down into the stream that feeds Watergrove Reservoir.

The next mile to the visitors centre was very pleasant in the sunshine so I rang my daughter as I strode along. I had a quick bite of my emergency rations, my first food of the day, and sat in the ‘Life for a Life’ memorial forest, a delightful spot overlooking the reservoir. The next couple of miles were a sheer delight with undulating paths contouring round the hillside before a final pull led over a ridge and down passed cottages and farms down to the road above Summit. This was where I had finished last year. At last I felt I was about to make some progress on the Pennine Bridleway proper.

Heading north at last, the trail climbed around a series of crags, nesting sites of crows and jackdaws. Then there was a very steep zig-zag path down to the main road at Bottomley, Goodness knows how you would get a horse down this. There was no respite from the vertical. I stepped over the road, through a tiny hamlet of cottages and immediately started a steep ascent up a narrow walled track, paved with old flags. When the necessary height had been attained, the flagged route became a wonderful contour above Walsden and its factories. It was getting really hot now and I was out of water. Having not seen an open shop for over 24 hours I went in search of a clean moorland stream. I found a trickle of clear water and drank my fill. It was mighty warm for March.

The flagged route took me steadily uphill to the crest of the ridge where it bore right and eastwards. Here I had one of those ‘mirage’ moments, a starving man crawling out of a shop-less desert. Below me, glittering in the sun, was what appeared to be a pub. I sprinted down and within minutes was ordering food in the Shepherds Rest. I demolished a pulled pork baguette and threw down some Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%). I had not realised how hungry I was. Suitably refreshed, I strode out along Lumbutts Lane, quickly passing Top Brink Pub and Mankinholes Youth Hostel. Another long contour on a lovely path took me beneath Stoodley Pike to the start of the big descent into the valley below. The Bridleway went off to the right of the Pennine Way and I was soon above Hebden Bridge. So I left the trail and dropped into town looking for a coffee shop. I found a lovely cafe where I indulged in carrot cake and a cappuccino whilst the kind owners looked up the location of my b&b. It was just along the canal towpath. I could not have come out closer. Within minutes I was in my bedroom preparing for a good evening in the pub.

Whitworth dep. 08.35, Hebden Bridge  arr. 16.30 

GPS 17.92 miles in 7hrs 11mins 31secs walking with 30mins (13.45- 14.15) in Shepherds Rest then another 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Hebble End Coffee Lounge in Hebden Bridge for a carrot cake and a cappuccino.

I stayed at Riverview B&B, Stibbins Drive, Hebden Bridge. Just a few yards away was the Stubbing Wharf where I ate grilled haddock on a bed of mashed potato followed by sticky toffee pudding. The beer was Saltaire Blonde (4.0%).

 

Thursday 21^st March 2019   Hebden Bridge – Kelbrook

Bronte Country

I only met my landlady at breakfast. Susy had been working in Manchester the previous evening and I had been asleep when she arrived home. We chatted and caught up as she cooked me a lovely breakfast that was to see me through the day. I was back on the towpath before 8.45am, heading out of town and back on the Trail. The climb up from the river was steep and long but I eventually pulled out into a bleak hanging valley, with dark stone cottages clustered in small hamlets such as Jack Bridge scattered across a sloping plateau. Eventually the route broke out onto a high lane which climbed gradually onto Heptonstall Moor. From the highest point there were fine views over the reservoirs and moors beyond.

 

I briefly joined the Pennine Way as a herd of sheep were being led by a moped-mounted farmer across the wall of Gorple reservoir. As they fed beside the path, it was my turn to cross the dam. A mile or so of tarmac road led to the parking area for Widdop reservoir. The Pennine Way turned off on its way to Scotland but the Mary Towneley Loop turned west at this point and climbed steeply over Clough Head Stones. A new view opened out, a view of where I had started two days previously; Hurstwood Reservoir and Burnley beyond. An easy descent took me back to the fingerpost pointing north. Nearly 50 miles completed and I was back where I started.

It was a great feeling to be heading north once more. There was some splendid walking on dry firm undulating green hills with steep valleys and beautiful views below. I got into my stride and the miles flew passed as I crossed Extwistle Moor, dropped into the Thursden Valley and out again along the Bronte Way. Text messages were pinging in about my normal pub session back home but I had a session of my own booked in a gastro pub. First however I had a café to look forward to. A long descent brought me down to Wycoller Hall, an atmospheric set of ruins on a fast running stream crossed by old packhorse bridges. In the tiny village, the Wycoller Café was in an old cottage. It provided a cappuccino and some lovely Victoria sponge. I was feeling really strong now and was quickly back of the move, climbing the ridge of Knarrs Hill where I rested momentarily at the trig point. The high hills of Lancashire dominated the view to the north along with several wind farms. My daughter rang as I raced towards the next few lane crossings. Then it was down a steep concrete farm track into the steep-sided valley below where I joined a path that ran parallel to the stream all the way into Kelbrook and my accommodation for the evening. A long but exhilarating day.

Hebden Bridge  dep. 08.44, Kelbrook  arr.17.30

GPS 24.38 in 8hrs 21mins 40secs walking time with a 20min break at Wycoller.

I stayed in the Craven Heifer, Kelbrook, had a lovely room and a top class meal of roast pork tenderloin on a bed of mashed potato. The mustard sauce was gorgeous. I finished with sticky toffee pudding and custard (served in a separate bowl). I enjoyed pints of Cocker Hoop (4.6%) from Jennings and Thwaites Wainwright (4.1%).

 

Friday 22^nd March 2019       Kelbrook – Settle

The Ribble Valley

Having had a good night’s sleep, I was up and about bright and early. By 7.30am I was breakfasting on a ‘full English’, and by 8.15am I was out of the door and on my way. The day was grey and damp with a threat of rain. I walked over the fields out of Kelbrook to re-join the trail and turn towards my final goal, an afternoon train home from Settle. The first part of the route was therefore most frustrating. Instead of heading north, it crossed the main road south of Barnoldswick and headed south west. At one point there were views over Colne and Nelson, spectacular but not those I wanted to see. So it was a relief when I reached the road to Weets House and turned toward my final destination. A five mile straight lane over hill and down dale dropped me into the outskirts of Gisburn. I knew of a coffee shop in the village and I was not going to miss this opportunity, so I crossed a field containing solar panels and found the busy deli where I sat for a few minutes and demolished a Bakewell pudding with my cappuccino.

Then I returned to the trail and follow it through Gisburne Estate and its magnificent old house, now a hospital. The route then followed the verge of the main road before diverting away to cross the Ribble at Paythorne Bridge. The pub in Paythorne was open; what a pity I have just had a refreshment break. The section over Paythorne Moor was very pleasant. Some of it had been left as unimproved wetland and the moorland birds were in full throated roar. The larks were ascending and the curlews were gargling. This was over soon enough and then a different type of land had to be crossed, where open farmland, poorly signed, had to be traversed. I found myself in an appallingly kept farm with sludge runoff a foot deep. Obviously walkers were not welcome here. Out onto the lane, good progress was made to Cow Bridge and beyond where, at the edge of Long Preston, I took the opportunity of skipping through narrow lanes and missing the horrendously busy A-road.

It was well after 2.00pm and I was beginning to keep an eye on the time. A fingerpost said that Settle was 5½ miles away and my train was due before 4.30pm. My map indicated a much shorter passage but it kept me striding out on the long lane over Hunter Bark. The final mile into Settle was down a very steep hill and the sky in the west was thickening with oncoming cloud and rain. I got down just before the drizzle started, had a kind soul take my photograph in the market place and, as I had 50 minutes before the train, I shot across the road and into the nearest café. The middle stage of the Pennine Walkway was complete. 83 miles in four days. I was happy with that.

Kelbrook dep. 08.15, Settle arr. 15.30

GPS 21.19 miles in 6hrs 58mins 12secs walking time plus 15 min break for cappuccino and Bakewell pudding in the deli in Gisburn.

 

Conclusion

It was drizzling quite hard as I waited for the train on Settle Station. I could not have timed it any better. I had had four days walking without getting a soaking and was now on my way home and still dry. But not quite home. The trains in Leeds were in chaos: the direct line to Manchester was closed. There were so many cancellations and trains running late that the platforms were knee deep in passengers. I squeezed onto a late running train having no idea where it was going. The on-board signs said Liverpool, the people thought it was Manchester Airport via Victoria and half way across the Pennines the line reopened and we were brought into Piccadilly. Accepting the bonus, I caught an earlier connection than expected and was soon being greeted by Jill at Macclesfield Station. I was pleased that I had got as far as Settle. It makes the planning of the last stage of the trail so much easier. I can now return by train to Settle, whizz round the Settle Loop (10 miles) and still be in Kirby Stephen in four days walking. I am looking forward to the challenge.