Glyndwr’s Way (Part 2)

Machynlleth - Welshpool   1^st - 4^th Oct 2019

Tuesday 1^st Oct 2019             Machynlleth – Llanbrynmair

Buses and Trains

I had been waiting for weeks for a let up in the weather. Eventually the forecast indicated a 48 hour window in between the rain-bearing weather fronts. The problem was that I required four days to complete the national trail that I had started last year. So I was going to get wet at the beginning or the end, take your pick. The United match on a Monday evening defined the latter option but the continuous rain was to take longer to clear than was first thought. Early on Tuesday, Jill took me in damp conditions over to Wilmslow station for the train to Shrewsbury. Here the problems began. The line onwards into mid-Wales was flooded. My train was cancelled and the next train only went as far as Newtown. From thence it was a bus replacement. So from expecting a late but achievable 16-mile schedule, I was desperately chasing the remains of the day and walking and jogging far faster than I had wanted.

My bus replacement arrived into Machynlleth at 1.10pm, 1½ hours late. I leapt off the coach and pounded passed the clock tower and down the main street. I had five minutes in a café gulping down a cappuccino and vanilla slice before setting off at a march up the long road out of town and across the golf course. The ground was saturated and the road was running with water. As I crossed the first hill it started to rain and it was to continue on and off for most of the day. As the grass got wetter, keeping my feet became an issue and steep descents on muddy paths were a nightmare. I fell several times and was soon covered in mud up my back and over my rucksack from slipping onto my back side. The first difficulty with route finding was in Abercegir where I was several minutes trying to find the exit from the village. The next set of hills was very remote and featureless but I was able to jog on the flat sections of grassland. I briefly wandered off-line at one point but quickly corrected to find the contour route around the head of a valley and onto the start of the descent to Cemmaes Road. The very steep grass fields were thankfully not quite so slippery and I soon got down to the main road with 10 miles behind me and two hours daylight remaining.

I was glad to get off the road again. No pavements and very fast moving traffic alarmed me. After a mile beside the river, the route turned steeply uphill and I was beginning to feel shattered. I had not planned to go so quickly and with such effort. Emergency rations and water were called for and I got going again along a flattish two-mile path that contoured across the hillside. The forest shown on my map had been cleared and the landscape looked dismal. At last, in the fast approaching gloaming, I reached the final ridge where the route turned towards my final destination, running along the last remnants of the plantation and then down steep wet grass where I was once again flying on the seat of my pants. It was dark when I reached the farm at the foot of the hill and pitch black by the time I got to Llanbrynmair. I stopped at the pub to ensure that a meal would be forthcoming, then went over the road to my b&b and had a very quick shower and change of clothes. I was certainly ready for a meal.

Machynlleth dep. 13.09, Llanbrynmair arr. 19.40  

GPS 18.33 miles in 6hrs 24mins 10secs walking time.  

I stayed at Wynnstay House B&B and ate across the road at the Wynnstay Arms. The lovely lady who owns the pub made me a plateful of lamb shank, chips and vegetables. I managed two bottles of Badger Fursty Ferret (4.4%) whilst watching Bayern put seven goals passed to Spurs.

Wednesday 2^nd Oct 2019      Llanbrynmair – Lake Vyrnwy

Too Late for the Rally

What a difference a day makes. The morning was clear and dry and the sun was breaking through as I finished breakfast, packed my rucksack and retraced my steps out of the village. After turning back onto the signed trail, the route crossed several fields climbing steadily. Then suddenly there was a post pointing directly up a very steep grassy ridge. At the top, the view was spectacular in the morning sunshine. The high level traverse of Cerrig y Tan was the highlight of the week. Views to the north and west opened up and the going was good underfoot. It was almost a disappointment to finally come to the end of this magnificent bit of country. The route passed into an extensive plantation and onto wide forest tracks. The last mile was back to wet and slippery grass before I emerged out of the trees and onto a bare and featureless moor, with route posts indicating the presence of a way. A gradual shedding of height brought me to a well-defined farm track and then to a road.

It was almost two miles of tarmac before, at Dolwen Farm, I had to wade along a flooded walled farm-track which climbed gradually uphill onto another desolate moor. A long descent, desperately trying to spot the next post, seemed endless and complicated, weaving as it did across the grain of the hillside. At last I spotted a trod across a field to a farm that featured on my map. I am not at all sure I came in from the correct angle but, at the end of a private drive, I picked up the acorn signs again. Then it was down a few lanes and over a footbridge to emerge onto the main road at Llangadfan. And, glory be, there on the other side of the road was a café, the Cwpan Pinc. I had a lovely slice of coffee & walnut cake with my cappuccino. A gentleman presented me with a set of DVDs from a local man who had motor-cycled round the world. Then it was off into the afternoon section.

Initially the route crossed farmland and the signage disappeared. So I took to the parallel lanes which provided better conditions underfoot. A long uphill series of field brought me to another lane at Penyfford. The footpath opposite, the entrance to Dyfnant Forest, was blocked by a ‘Footpath Closed’ sign. No alternatives or diversions were given so I pressed on into the forest and onto the forest tracks that had obviously just been used as part of the Welsh Rally. At the stage point, workmen were clearing the equipment from the previous day. If I had been a day earlier, I would not have got through; the route of Glyndwr’s Way had been a high speed race track. Thank goodness for the United match that had delayed my passage by a day. I really must follow up on the legality of running an event like this along a national trail without providing an alternative way for walkers. Anyway, I was through and down a stony track that was a raging stream. This led onto the lane that took me to Ddol Cownwy and its large site of mobile homes. Then, just in case I had forgotten my climbing muscles, up went the track over the next hill. I could hear the roar of the water before I saw it. Then there was the Lake Vynrwy Dam beneath me, spilling vast quantities of water in a spectacular waterfall. And beyond, high on the hillside, was the majestic hotel that was my destination. I quickly dropped down to the silent and empty village and crossed the dam to reach the memorial to those who had been involved with its construction. It was a pleasant walk along the side of the lake and up the steep entrance road to the hotel. It had been a superb day’s walking.

Llanbrynmair dep. 09.22, Vyrnwy arr. 17.30 

GPS 20.07 miles in 7hrs 36mins 24secs walking with 30 mins in the café at Llangadfan (14.00-14.30).

I stayed in Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa. I ate in the Brasserie, chicken tikka masala, followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. Some lovely real ales and I enjoyed an awful lot of Old Jailhouse (3.9%) from Monty’s Brewery near Montgomery.

Thursday 3^rd Oct 2019          Lake Vyrnwy – Meifod

Racing the Rain

Leaving the hotel, I slipped and slithered down a woodland path that was a short cut back to the dam of Lake Vrynwy. A cloud of mist and spray hung over the spillway reminiscent of some of the great waterfalls of the world. The day was dry but yesterday’s sunshine had disappeared. I picked up the route again and followed it on tracks and paths downriver to Llanwyddyn. The road south went gradually uphill until a forest road forked to the left. More signs of the rally littered the way. Then a figure-post pointed up a narrow trod between the trees and up a set of, maybe, 100 or more steps. Emerging at last onto a bare hilltop, the view around was stunning. But the way dived immediately back into the forest and down a narrow, steep and slippery path which dropped straight into Pont Llogel. Just before the bridge, a signpost led me through a carpark onto the banks of the River Vrynwy and along the Ann Griffith’s Walk. After a mile of easy walking, the Glyndwr’s Way turned off up a field at the top of which a farm track is followed. A diversion, not particularly well signed, took me round the farm at Pentre. Then it was lanes, fields and open moorland before the gentle drop back into the Vrynwy valley at the village of Dolanog.    

Crossing the river, I walked first along the road and then a wooded path on the south bank of the river. Some parts of this section were interesting, particularly as we passed under a hill into a wooded gorge. Then it was out into fields and flat grassland before I came to a large farm where the route took to its access road. Pontrobert was larger than I expected. It had a school and a bus shelter and a river bridge that was closed for road works. It even had a pub but this was closed as well so I was not to get a refreshment break today. The storm clouds that had been forecast were amassing behind me and I pushed on at an increasingly greater tempo. A short section of farmland led to another farm access lane, this one tarmacked all the way. Just before the main road, the route turned into yet another forest, this one being heavily felled. I was given a lecture on health & safety by a forester at the entrance and then ignored the diversion signs and clambered through the mud and over the logs and brashings and out into the lane into Meifod. Now a few drops of rain began to fall and I increased my pace yet again. I passed the school thinking I might have to run to keep dry but I turned the corner into the village and there was the pub 50 yards up the road. I was home and dry and it was not yet 3.30pm.

So for the first time this week, I had time for a long shower, a much need shave and a good read/rest. Then I slipped down into the bar to taste the local waters and watch my football team in the early kick-off European match. I should do this more often.

Lake Vyrnwy dep. 09.13, Meifod arr. 15.25

GPS 16.26 in 6hrs 11mins 10secs.

I stayed in the Kings Head in Meifod and had fish & chips in the bar whilst watching United on TV and drinking HPA (4.0%) from Wye Valley Brewery. I finished with apple crumble and then retired early to my bedroom to watch KJT win her gold medal.

Friday 4^th Oct 2019   Meifod – Welshpool

A Golfing High

A storm had passed through during the night and it was dry and overcast as I left the hotel. I had got an early start, breakfasting in my damp walking gear so that I was walking soon after 8.30am. This turned out to be an excellent move as I was able to enjoy an excellent morning’s walk free from any time pressures. And I needed that extra time as the ground was saturated once more and fast progress on the slippery ground was impossible. The long ascent out of the valley took a zig-zag through the woods and along quiet lanes. The convoluted excursion ended, after three miles of walking, at a viewpoint immediately above my starting point. Then more rapid progress was made to the south with a complex sequence of farms, fields, woods and lanes. Any sloping land was treacherous to walk over and I skated on sheets of water, grass and mud for the next hour or so. The only let up in concentration was through a caravan site and along a narrow lane around Stonehouse, a large and prosperous looking farm.

There was a sting in the tail. It started in a wood when a set of steps and steep ground had to be climbed to get over a tree-lined hill. This height was lost again as the path slanted down a woodland track and into open fields to a stream. Facing me was then the longest steepest barest field on the entire route. An endless slog up a cut grass slope eventually led through a kissing gate and across a lane. The top was now in sight above a golf course built on the crest of the ridge. A convoluted route around the edge of the course, the golfers obviously not welcoming long-distance walkers, took me up bracken slopes, across bracken-lined footpaths, and then finally up a steep climb to the trig point at Y Golfa.

Then it was downhill all the way, first across hillside, then through woodland and farmland and finally across beautifully kept parkland. This came out at the roundabout at the entrance to Welshpool. I had made good time and could afford a break for lunch. I sought out the Monkey Tree Café, which we had discovered during our summer trip with the grandchildren. A Panini and coffee were quickly consumed and I continued on my way through town, pausing to have photographs taken at the official end to Glyndwr’s Way. The station was a short way beyond and I was soon on a train heading for Shrewsbury and a connection to Wilmslow. Jill was waiting in the sunshine and I was home by late afternoon enjoying a nice cup of tea. I had clocked 66 miles in four days of walking and had completed another national trail.

Meifod dep. 08.40, Welshpool Station arr. 13.35

GPS 11.80 miles in 4hrs 23mins 54secs walking time plus a 30 min (12.55-13.25) break in a café in Welshpool.

Glyndwr's Way (Part 1)

Knighton – Machynlleth   4 – 8^th June 2018

Monday 4^th June 2018          Knighton – Felindre

Late in Clocking On

I was due to travel with Northern Rail but, such have been the concerns about cancellations and the devastating effect that would have on my walking schedule, I asked Jill to take me over to Wilmslow Station and the more reliable Virgin service to Crewe. Here I had time for a coffee and bacon bap before climbing into the single coach that was the Heart of Wales service to Swansea. This was a lovely journey through rural Cheshire and Shropshire before turning onto a single track line through the border hills to Knighton. I walked up to the clock tower and took some photos, then popped into the Clock Tower Café for a cappuccino and carrot cake.

So it was 11.30am before I set off up the ‘Narrows’ and out onto Glyndwr’s Way. Some narrow and steep ginnels took me through the outskirts of the town and up onto a high corniche. This contoured through some woods around Garth Hill before reaching a series of lanes and farm tracks that led over the hills and down to Llangunllo. The sun had broken through and it was getting rather hot. Little did I think that I had five days of sunshine ahead of me. It was a long trek up lanes to the station where the route passed under this morning’s railway line and started a long gradually climb up onto Beacon Hill Common.

The walking from here across the Short Ditch and the moor was magnificent. I overtook a party of Canadians and was into a fast rhythm, perhaps rather too fast as I missed a route marker and ended up too far to the east, descending into a farm whose track took me to Beguildy, about two miles up the road from my target. A small shop made me a ‘coffee to go’ and I completed this two mile section of busy road whilst supping my hot drink. So I probably clocked an extra mile or more in reaching Felindre and my accommodation for the night. I learnt my lesson in the need to concentrate and I corrected all future navigational mistakes much more quickly.

Knighton dep. 10.58, Felindre arr. 17.40  

GPS 18.34 miles in 6hrs 24mins 32secs walking time. I stopped for 25 minutes in Knighton (11.05-11.30).

I stayed at Brandy House Farm in a camping pod.  I dined with two women on a horse riding holiday and one lady walker with a lame dog. The meal started with various pates and was followed by chicken casserole. A crumble completed a splendid meal. A couple of bottles of Old Speckled Hen dealt with my dehydration issues.

Tuesday 5^th June 2018          Felindre - Abbeycwmhir

Tilting at Windmills

I has not found it easy to get to sleep in my camping pod but then slept so well that it was five minutes to breakfast when I came round. I had to leap off my mattress, throw on some clothes and dash down to the breakfast room. It was not to be a long day so I had lots of time to pack my rucksack afterwards before setting off. By 9.30am, I was descending the farm drive into the village and along the main road. I saw the Canadian party being dropped off in front of me and I followed them down the road and walked with them up the first climb of the day. At the top we said our farewells and I pressed on along a grassy ridge which eventually brought me to a tarmac lane. Here I lost all the hard earned height as the lane dropped down to a cross road of tracks.

A left turn took me to the foot of a second big climb. At half height three women on horseback sat waiting for me to open and close a gate for them. Then the route continued upwards round a wind farm and traversed undulating hillsides of gorse scrubland which must have been very boggy in wet weather. The section ended in gaining the high point and a fingerpost which pointed down a lane that descended gently at first and then steeply down to Llanbadarn. The shop was off route and the pub was closed so I walked onwards alongside a very busy road beside a river and then crossed the river on a side lane and started to climb yet again. It was really getting hot now so I sat at the top stile to have a bite to eat and to drain my water bottle.

The next section was glorious walking, along a grassy ridge and then down by some pine trees and ancient looking dykes and earthworks. A steep descent led to Tynypant where the climbing started all over again, this time up a narrow wooded ridge, tree-lined at first but opening out onto a ridge with magnificent views all around. My destination lay below in a narrow valley down to the right. To reach this valley, the route dropped down to a col between two peaks and turned sharply downhill through thick woodland and dappled sunlight. It was a walk into Paradise as I worked my way along lanes and woodland paths along this remote valley into Abbeycwmhir. Here I quickly found my b&b and was glad of a cup of tea and a cool shower before joining my hosts, Angela and Michael in their beautiful back garden. A magnificent day’s walking.

Felindre dep. 09.40, Abbeycwmhir arr. 16.05 

GPS 16.32 miles in 6hrs 13mins 06secs walking with 15 mins rest (13.15-13.00) above Llanbadarn.

I stayed with Angela and Michael Winterton at the Oaks in Abbeycwmhir, a lovely b&b where I was treated like one of the family. I pigged myself on two sorts of flan and drank some of their Boddingtons beer.

Wednesday 6^th June 2018     Abbeycwmhir – Llanidloes

Cafes and Pubs at Last

As I sat in the conservatory having my breakfast, the hills were shrouded in a light mist which lent a mysterious atmosphere to the valley. But this cloud soon burnt off in the warming morning sun and it was to be another swelteringly hot day. I got the line wrong in the very first field in leaving the village but soon recovered to find a lovely woodland path that led over a small footbridge and steeply up to a lane. Here the map and the signs differed. A finger post pointed up the lane and the map showed the route in fields to the left. I cut up a farm track to try to get back on line, only to find barriers across the line of stiles. So I retreated back to the foot of the Esgair Farm entrance and here found the diversion signs that had been missing from the other end. All this uncertainty did not cost much time and I was soon climbing strongly into the emerging sunshine. A lovely traverse of Upper Esgair Hill ended in a steep drop into the hamlet of Bwlch-y-sarnau.

Angela, my host of last night, had recommended that I should avoid a bit of very boggy ground if I now diverted, on purpose this time, along a road to the west for 500m and then up a forest trail to Waun Marteg. A long section of tarmac led to a lovely contouring track along the edge of a forest passing several deserted farms on its passage. I stopped briefly for a bite and a drink at a stile with a view, then continued on this roller coaster of a contour until a left-hand turn led very steeply down a stony and slippery track into a limestone gorge. Here there was a sharp left turn along a very boggy path that led over a stream to a field gate where all route signage disappeared. I was left at the foot of a huge sloping pasture with no idea which way to head. The map indicated a slanting line so I started up steep grass looking for breaks in the top hedge and fence line. I was not far off with my guess and a few yards along the fence there was a stile into a leafy track. This ascended to a lane and more tarmac and then a steep descent down a rough grassy field where I lost all that precious height again.

A rather arbitrary finger post indicated a left turn which was hard to spot but then the line became clear as I contoured round several properties. There was a rather complex loop round a large farm that obviously did not welcome a national trail but, more by good luck than judgment, I found the bypass and came out opposite a gorgeous little cottage, with shutters, climbing plants and a beautiful garden. Yet more roads led me to Newchapel where the route took a definite turn towards home. Just when the concentration on navigation started to wane, I completely lost the route in the next wood, ended up having to climb belatedly and steeply back to the road that would take me gradually downhill to Llanidloes. I soon found myself in a lovely old town with cafes and pubs and ancient buildings. I was back in civilisation after three days in the wilderness. I celebrated with cappuccino and spicy apple cake in the Great Oak Café.

Abbeycwmhir dep. 09.20, Llanidloes arr. 15.40

GPS 16.25 in 6hrs 04mins 12secs walking time with a 20min break near Cyndfa.

I stayed in the Unicorn Hotel in Llanidloes and I ate at the Angel. I was starving so I started with duck pate, had a main course of lamb curry and finished with lemon sponge and custard. All this was washed down by copious amounts of Butty Bach from Wye Valley Brewery (4.5%).

Thursday 7^th June 2018        Llanidloes – Y Star Inn, Dylife

The Welsh Lake District

This was supposed to be an easy day, not exactly a rest day but the next best thing. So after breakfast I sauntered round Llanidloes in the morning sunshine and, before I set out for the day’s walk, managed another coffee and cake in the Great Oak Café. Rather late for me, I strode across the river bridge and up the road on the other side. There was a delightful path climbing into the woods, Allt Goch. I am not sure I got the standard route up to the golf course but I picked up the waymarks at the club house. I nearly missed the left turn off the entrance road but soon corrected any navigation discrepancies and dropped down some very steep grassy fields to the hamlet of Van. I continued along the tarmac farm track towards Garth then turned right and uphill until I met another diversion around an unwelcoming property. Halfway round I started with a nose bleed which persisted whilst I walked up a very busy main road. At last I came to a gate which led into a field and I lay down until the bleeding had subsided.

A field path ran parallel to the road for half a mile until a tarmac farm lane took me a further half mile to a diversion round the farm itself. Here I got my first view of the great dam at Llyn Clywedog. A steep track descended to its base and the atmospheric ruins of an old lead mine. The climb up the other side was on hot and shade-less tarmac, on traffic-free roads that led to a car park with few cars and a café that appeared permanently closed. A murderously steep grassy bank took the route back onto roads. The next section had a diversion due to a landslip. So at least half a mile was added to the day’s total. At the top of the next field I sat at the stile and had a very brief break for water and a flapjack. Then the way markers pointed away from the lake and towards a distant forest. The top of the forest was also the top of the ridge and the route descended on open pasture down towards a deserted farm.

Crossing a stream on a road bridge, I was then turned right into another forest through which I climbed steadily up to the same road. The road continued down passed some bunkhouses and an acid balancing mechanism on the next stream. Then there was a pleasant section across farmland to Llwynygog where I had to scramble up a steep bank to get on-route for the final hill of the day. A track led across the dry plateau until the view of Dylife and the pub opened up below. A short but steep track wound down the hillside to the road almost opposite the entrance to Y Star Inn, my home for the night.

Llanidroes dep. 10.20,  Y Star Inn arr. 16.20

GPS 15.17 miles in 5hrs 45mins 35secs walking time plus a 10 min () break in

I stayed at Y Star Inn at Dylife. There was no real ale on tap so I resorted to bottles of  Felinfoel double dragon and Cwrw. I ate fish and chips followed by a sponge pudding and custard.

Friday 8^th June 2018             Y Star Inn – Machynlleth

Another Clock Tower

The earliest time for breakfast was 8am so the dining room was full of walkers and fishermen all straining at the leash. I came through the chaotic service quite well and was through the front door and away by 9am. It was cloudy for the first time in over a week and this made it cool for the climb back up to the top of the ridge to pick up the national trail. I made good time along the top on relatively flat and stony tracks and pathways. After two miles or so, the path led down into a gully to cross the headwaters of Afon Clywedog. A steep and slatey scramble up the other side took me past some newish looking buildings and then over a moor to Glaslyn, a high remote and rather featureless mountain lake.

As I crossed the plateau, the trig point of Foel Fadian beckoned. And it was so near the path that I was up and down in just over 10 minutes, with my first and only peak of the week in the bag. Then came a long and steep descent on slippery slate and loose stones. Stopping briefly to check the navigation, I eventually stepped onto easier and grassier ground and thence into the valley. A gratuitously steep loop kept me off road for a short while but eventually the tarmac was inevitable. I toiled up a steep lane and then a steeper farm track as the day got warmer and stickier. The cloud covered had increase the humidity level and I was sweating more than I had done all week. On the top of Cefn Modfedd, I made a classical error of missing a way-marker and it was several minutes before I realised my mistake, got the compass out and corrected my error. Soon I was on top of the ridge and stopped briefly for a bite to eat and to finish my water bottle.

At Talbontdrain two little boys asked whether I wanted any water and I was delighted to hand over my empty water bottle for filling. Then there was a gruelling climb in the heat of midday up a curving path to Rhiw Goch. It was well worth it because the next 2 miles were on wonderful high ground which finished in a right-hand turn, a steep descent and a poorly marked path up to a recently cleared forest. Another fast section then led down and left out onto the final moor overlooking Machynlleth. But rather than dropping straight down into town, the official route went out on a long loop to the west and it seemed an age before I eventually hit the road and then the steep and narrow path down to the outskirts of Machynlleth. The signs led me through a car park and kiddies play area before passing the Heritage Centre and its café. I could not resist a quick carrot cake and cappuccino before continuing passed the second clock tower of my trip and on to the station. I just had time to change out of my sweaty walking gear and then it was time for the train home.

Y Star Inn dep. 09.00, Machynlleth Station arr.15.45

GPS 17.70 miles in 6hrs 23mins 55secs walking time and had a 10min stop near Talbontdrain and 15 mins (15.20-15.35) in the café at the Heritage Centre in Machynlleth.

Half a train was waiting for me at Machynlleth Station and this set off on time when a rear section arrived and had been attached. I had time for another coffee on Shrewsbury Station before the Manchester train came in and took me to Wilmslow where Jill was waiting to pick me up. It is nearly always the case that the closeness of the experience leads to the last walk being perceived as the best, so I hesitate before claiming that the last five days walking have been some of the most sustainably enjoyable and beautiful, on wonderful grassy hills with everlastingly lovely views. But I am sure that the spectacular weather had a part to play on my thinking that this is the some of the best quality walking of all the national trails.