Northumberland Coast Path

15^th- 19^th May 2023

 

Introduction

 

The completion of my nineteenth and last national trail involved Mike and me finishing last year’s walking week at Berwick upon Tweed. With the certificate from the LDWA National Trail Register came the news that the entire England Coast Path had now been added to the list. So, it was back to Berwick for this year’s episode, to attempt to complete the Northumberland section of this 2,700-mile odyssey. Little did we know what difficulties would be encountered in returning to Berwick by train.

 

Our Northern train to Manchester was cancelled and we were fortunate that the following Avanti express was on time. The TransPennine train to York was cancelled and again we had to make do with a later service whose three coaches made overcrowding on cattle trucks seem humane. In getting so many people on board, the train was late arriving in York and we had to run through a tunnel between platforms to catch our LNER connection (which was held for us, thank goodness). So, more by good luck than judgement, we arrived at Berwick at the prescribed hour. No time for a cafe, we had a full-day’s walking in front of us and it was well after mid-day.

 

 

Monday 15^th May 2023                     Berwick upon Tweed - Fenwick

Cancelled Trains

 

We set off immediately from the station, descending a set of steps through a wooded dingle to the riverside path below the Royal Border Bridge. Within minutes we were standing on the Old Bridge where last year’s trek had ended. Crossing the river, we saw our first way markers for the England Coast Path. Along Dock Road and through the quiet suburb of Spittal, we were soon up on the low cliffs on a grassy path squeezed between the railway and the sea. The route joined a narrow lane leading to a car park containing a feature that stopped us in our tracks, an ice cream van. The tarmac eventually gave way to a track into the dunes. Here I got off line slightly walking nearer the sea than intended but we were rewarded by a wonderful spread of cowslips stretching as far as we could see. At Cheswick Shiel, we corrected our misalignment, crossing a golf course to the club house and back onto route.

A long lane took us passed Beachcomber House and onto a grass path behind the dunes. Encountering the first of many estuaries, the route turned inland to cross the stream at Beal Sluice. A boggy section of path ran round the high-water line of the tidal marshes to reach the causeway road heading for Lindisfarne. Weaving between the concrete blocks that were intended to stop people from parking, we continued up a series of field paths to the railway line. Being the East Coast main line, the trains pass at high speed and the signalman has to be contacted by phone to ensure that it is safe to cross the track. After waiting for one train, we leapt across and up the next field. Within a minute two more trains thundered across behind us, illustrating the need for caution. A few minutes later, we were crossing the A1, just as dangerous as the railway, and searching for our accommodation in Fenwick. Because the pub providing the only food in the area wanted us there early, we had very quick showers before    setting off walking again, 

 

Berwick dep. 12.41, Fenwick arr. 17.25

GPS 12.60 miles in 4hr 44mins 26secs walking time, plus another 2.5 miles to and from the pub. Stayed at Fenwick b&b, Aidanfield, Fenwick and ate at the Lindisfarne Inn, over a mile away by quiet country lanes. I had game cottage pie followed by rhubarb crumble and custard all washed down with Secret Kingdom (4.3%) from Hadrian Border Brewery.

 

 

Tuesday 16^th May 2023                Fenwick – Seahouses

Gorse in Full Bloom

 

On a bright and breezy morning, we left our lovely b&b after an excellent breakfast. I lost Mike in the village store. He popped in to buy a sandwich for lunch and then got talking. I eventually returned to the village to search for him and found him still in the shop. At last, we were on our way, up a long straight lane leading into wooded hills. The turn-off was onto a contouring field path giving good views over Lindisfarne and the coast. In the forest, the path became muddy with evidence of windblow from recent storms. Eventually we emerged onto open moorland and the flowering gorse made a blazing yellow spectacle in the morning sunshine. Fabulous views of distant Bamburgh Castle were all too soon interrupted by a turn downhill through forestation down to Swinhoe Farm. The descent to Belford was through grassy pastureland, passed a fortified farm with a castle on one end. Belford looked a pleasant town and it provided me with a Co-op for a sandwich and a small coffee shop, Well House, for a welcome coffee and cake,

 

The exit from the town was passed a huge industrial complex consisting of many silos, all identical. Could this be grain? Without an answer, we crossed the main railway line for a second time, complete with the usual phone-call to the signalman. More high pasture was to follow, this time grazed by young cattle, with fields of oil-seed rape below. At the next lane, I was aware that all was not as per the maps or previous experience. The advent of the new England Coast Path project had resulted in a complete re-route. The newly signed trail ran closer to the sea, circumnavigating Waren Mill via a campsite and footpaths not on any of our maps. We gained the shore of Budle Bay on a busy road running along the shore-line where a pair of eider ducks was swimming. Another new coast path fingerpost took us from this road down to Kiln Point. Here we sat by the shore and ate our butties.

 

Re-joining the original path systems, the afternoon section traversed the golf course with Bamburgh Castle getting intimidatingly closer. So was poor weather. As we stood on a sandy path beneath the great ramparts, a drizzle came in from the sea. Donning our rain gear we traipsed on, getting wetter from the long grass and shrubs than from the rain. Beyond the castle, we took to the waymarked path into the dunes. This ran parallel with the coast road but gave soft, sometimes very soft, off-road walking. This two-mile part of the walk emerged from the dunes in the outskirts of Seahouses. A dreary seafront led into town and its bustling little centre. Our accommodation was just inland but was easy to find from the instructions. T could not access the e-mail with the access code to the room but we were able to get help from reception and were soon showering and changing from our wet clothes.

 

Fenwick dep. 09.00, Seahouses arr.16.55

GPS 16.66 miles in 6hrs 57mins 37secs walking time plus 30 mins at Well House Cafe in Belford and 20 mins eating our sandwiches at Kiln Point.

Stayed at Links Lets, Seahouses, and ate at the Olde Ship Inn. I ordered fish and chips and mushy peas. The golden syrup sponge was served in an old Tate & Lyle syrup tin and we just added custard. The beer was Farne Island (4.0%) and Grainger Ale (4.6%) from Hadrian Border Brewery.

 

 

Wednesday 17^th March 2023           Seahouses – Alnmouth

Breakfast at Beadnell

 

Our accommodation did not provide breakfast, in fact it provided nothing but a small rather stuffy room. We had been provided with a list of breakfast providers. Unfortunately, none of the local ones opened before 10am but an early opening café was recommended in the next village. So, we packed our sacks and set off, with our usual butty purchase at the Co-op, passed the harbour and out over the golf course. The day was bright and clear, much better than the previous dreich afternoon. We met a lady on her morning walk who enquired about our early start. When she heard about our quest for some breakfast, she offered to take us home and provide. We thanked her for her kind offer but continued on our coastal journey with the village of Beadnell as our immediate target. The Courtyard Coffee Shop was advertised on a handwritten board at the end of The Haven, a road to Farne Hall and the Craster Arms. Soon we were tucking into a huge breakfast, me with a stack of pancakes. Not a bad start to the day.

 

We left Beadnell along the beach which provided easy walking until we encountered the Long Nanny River where we were diverted upstream around an area cordoned off for nesting birds. Crossing Long Nanny Bridge, we were back on a grassy path in meadows full of buttercups. It was back into civilisation at Lower Newton where the beach and pub were full of visitors. In the dunes beyond, the path weaved between a encampment of wooden cabins before emerging onto a series of golf courses. We met the lady who had earlier in the day offered to give us breakfast, She was now out walking with friends, Signs took us round the edge of the golf courses heading for Dunstanburgh Castle which appeared as a flat -topped ancient hillfort. The castle looked more impressive looking back from the south side. Cropped grassland, one huge lawn, stretched out before us most of the way to Craster. This was another busy village bustling with holiday-makers, again focussed on and around the pub. We found a quiet spot on the edge of the village with a table in a kiddies play area. Time to eat our butties.

 

The last section of the day was a pleasant stroll along clifftops with nesting seabirds swirling over the sea. The small village of Boulter was soon behind us and the complex of buildings including the clubhouse at Foxton Hall dominated the view. The official route of the coast path goes through the clubhouse grounds before crossing more fairways and greens. The walk ended with a climb up to a spectacular viewpoint over Alnmouth, then a steep descent into the town, passing the pub where we were staying. So, we abandoned our trek, had showers and refreshments in our room and completed the last mile round the town after dinner.

Seahouses dep. 08.20, Alnmouth arr.16.30

GPS 18.24 miles in 7hrs 07mins 28secs walking time plus 40 mins in Courtyard Coffee Shop in Beadnell and 15 mins lunch-stop in Craster. We stayed in the Hope & Anchor in Alnmouth. For dinner I had fish and chips for the second evening running. There was no proper pudding. I drank Anchor Ale (3.8%) from Cullercoats Brewery and Alnwick IPA (4.5%) from Alnwick Brewery. And then we walked the extra mile bringing our total for the day to over 19 miles.

 

 

Thursday 18^th March 2023  Alnmouth – Newbiggin by the Sea

Annoying a Twitcher           

                                   

Having completed the circuit of the town the previous night, we were straight out on route in the morning, over the river bridge and along the cycle routes which kept us away from the main road. Back down to the sea, the coast path was signed along grassy and sandy paths that ran behind the dunes. These led to the inevitable golf course, whose entrance road was used as access to Warkworth town centre. A lovely old bridge over the Coquet River led through the town walls at a medieval gateway which took us straight into the village shop. Clutching sandwiches for our lunch and licking refreshing ice creams, we sat briefly on the steps of the market cross. Then we climbed slowly up to the castle and left on the main road out of town towards Amble. The trail entered Amble via the marina, then crossed some playing fields into the shopping area where we found a quiet café, the Coquet Tea Rooms, for coffee and cake.

 

We left Amble via the South Jetty before taking once more to a sandypath through the dunes, parallel to the coast road. The next 5 miles or so were on hard surfaced cycleways which ran for almost the full length of Druridge Bay. It passed through nature reserves, fresh water lakes and vast areas of reed beds. Bird life was prolific with this mix of sea, woodland and marsh. Half way along this section we sat of a bench listening to reed warblers and ate our precious food supplies. Then we plodded on, dispirited by the endless tarmac and cyclists until we reached a car park where a twitcher, complete with cameras and tripod, had just spotted a rare Grasshopper Warbler. We waltzed right through the middle of this, scaring the bird into flight, He will probably never be the same again. Before he could curse us, we turned off the road and into the dunes. Dry sandy paths and poorly signed fields led us to Cresswell and its tower, the official terminus of the Northumberland Coast Path. An interpretive board told us that we had walked 62 miles from Berwick. But our path did not stop here. We had the whole of the England Coast in front of us.

 

Ahead was our first power station, a 420MW plant fuelled by biomass. It was originally the power supply to a local aluminium works but now feeds the national grid. Two colourful gypsy caravans were parked on the rough grassland leading up to Lynemouth and the horses were grazing nearby. The coast path ran round the seaward side on a made-up path that looked pretty flat but obviously had a trip hazard, a piece of protruding slate, which I fell over. Mike helped me to my feet and we continued on to the golf course and the last headland before Newbiggin. The coast path signs directed us onto the promenade and we were surprised to find our accommodation, the Old Ship, on this pedestrian way and not in the main street. We had a lovely room with two large beds. The pub did not  do food, especially on quiz night, so we showered, changed and wander into town to find an Italian restaurant that had been recommended.

Alnmouth dep. 09.13, Newbiggin arr.17.42

GPS 20.78 miles in 7hrs 31mins 58 secs walking time plus 25 mins at the Coquet Tea Rooms in Amble and 15 mins eating our sandwiches near Druridge Bay Nature Reserve.

Stayed at the Old Ship in Newbiggin, managed a quick pint of West Highland Way (3.7%) from Loch Lomond Brewery and ate at Due Fratelli, an Italian restaurant on Front Street. The meal was lasagne and garlic bread followed by stick toffee pudding and ice cream. A bottle of Merlot made a change from all that beer.

 

Friday 19^th May 2023                       Newbiggin by the Sea – Blyth South Beach

Blyth Spirit

 

A huge breakfast awaited us on a warm but dull morning. Armed with a sandwich from the local Co-op, we set off along the promenade and out onto the coast path beyond Spital Point. The cliff tops were dominated by static caravan parks which restricted us to a narrow strip of grass along the edge. This eventually became unwalkable and an acorn sign directed us into the caravan park. Enquiries of residents did not reveal a designated route so we returned to the beach and walked on the wet sand round to the estuary of the Wansbeck and then followed the river inland to cross over the weir under the bridge carrying the main coast road. Back on the south bank, there was a lovely section of riverside path round to the car park near Cambois Farm. Along the dunes heading for the old power station, a line of cottages came into view, each house painted a different bright colour. Just beyond this terrace, the route turned inland on roads through an area of industry connected, it seemed, to energy production.

 

The skies had cleared and we were getting rather hot as we trudged along pavements. As the roads got busier, we were relieved to turn into a lane through some new housing and then through a woodland leading to farmland on the banks of the River Blyth. A mile along the overgrown riverbank we came to a complex of roads and cycleways which led up and over a high-level bridge carrying a dual carriageway of fast-moving traffic. The path  on the south side back to the sea was dominated by light industry but we moved quickly on cycleways along the riverbank towards Blyth town centre. A fisherman recommended a café which we set out to find whilst keeping to the signed route through new housing estates. In town, walkers share the pavements with cyclists on Sustrans Route 1, this at first seeming rather alarming. Eventually we felt we were close enough to the centre to turn inland and soon came  to the Frameworks, a smart arts café, perhaps too smart for two hot and sweaty walkers.

 

After a coffee and cake, we returned to the dockside roads and stopped for a moment at Williams II. a gaff rigged ketch, the ship that led the expedition that discovered Antarctica. The route cut inland to pass through Ridley Park before taking to the pavement of Links    Road. After a mile or so, South Beach appeared on the left and we walked down the promenade to a bench overlooking the bay. A short stop for sandwiches and we concluded our weeklong walk and headed for home. The first bus to arrive was a 309 Cobalt & Coast service to Newcastle which took us to Haymarket in the city centre. A guy on the bus showed us the way to Central Station only to find that the next two services to Manchester were cancelled by our wonderful train service provider TransPennine. But the 18.04 train took us to Manchester Victoria and, after a walk across Manchester, a delayed Avanti train was soon in Macclesfield. It had been a long day.

 

Newbiggin dep. 09.21, Blyth South Beach arr. 14.50

GPS 12.65 miles in 4hrs 38mins 25secs walking time with 30 mins in the Frameworks Art Café in Blyth and 10 min break at South Beach.            

 

 

Conclusion

 

Another great walk with Mike, spoilt only by the train companies’ inability to provide a service to this corner of the country. The England Coast Path project is underway with the 82-mile completion of the Northumberland section. It was amazingly well signed with several improvements from the original Northumberland Coast Path. Old maps are now out of date as the new route, clinging as it does to the dunes and coast, takes precedence. The next section through suburban North and South Shields and Sunderland and Hartlepool will in no way match the glorious coastline of the north. And Mike and I, for our annual forays, will be looking to better things in our dotage. So, I may come back alone to walk the industrial legacy of Tyne and Wear. Perhaps a winter project. Then we can continue with high quality walking on the Yorkshire Coast in future years.

 

 

St Oswald's Way

Hexham – Lindisfarne, 6^th – 10^th August 2016

Introduction

Friday 5^th August 2016

I was getting desperate for a good walk but the weather this summer has not been conducive. It had not turned out to be the monsoon season forecast by climate change models; just day after day of grey skies and drizzle. Then suddenly there was a hint of high pressure offering a weekend of sunshine. So, on the spur of the moment, I grabbed my guidebook to the St Oswald’s Way, spent a morning on-line booking the hotels and b&b’s, bought my train tickets and packed my rucksack. 48 hours later I was on the train to Carlisle and Hexham.

The tide tables determined which direction I was to walk in. The afternoon low tides made it more suitable for a late finish of the northward walk rather than an early start needed for a north-south journey. I was really pleased and pretty amazed I had managed to get the accommodation sorted out at such a busy time in the holiday season. Then I got a phone call from the Knowesgate Inn telling me that, although I had booked a room and had a receipt, they had no accommodation for me. I could either panic and cancel, or stay cool and carry on in the hope that a bed would be found.  Then it was off to the station and into the unknown. I travelled via Manchester Piccadilly and Carlisle to catch an early evening train to Hexham, The promised better weather was beginning to appear.

I stayed at the Station Inn in Hexham. My meal was spicy chicken, chips and peas and the beer was the excellent Allendale Golden Plover (4%).

Saturday 6^th August 2016     Hexham - Knowesgate

Heaven on the Wall

It was a beautiful morning, just as forecast. I went up into Hexham town centre to find an ATM and the bus station. As I was so early, I decided to forsake public transport and walk up to the official start at Heavenfield. So I turned back across the railway line and crossed the Tyne. The Pennine Journey route was marked on my map so I initially followed this to the footbridge across the A69 and beyond. The map was then rather confusing and I found myself on a lane rather than in a field. But it revealed a gem of an old church, St John of Beverley near Acomb. I spent a few minutes in the church in quiet contemplation and then came out to talk to a lady, Sheila Smith, who had just finished writing a history of the church and is in the process of getting it published. She suggested that I write to the rectory next year to get a copy. Amazingly this was the very day of an annual pilgrimage from Hexham Abbey up to the chapel at Heavenfield to mark the anniversary of St Oswald’s death in battle (5^th August 642). 

Then it was onwards and upwards along the very quiet lanes until I could cut across some fields up to the road along Hadrian’s Wall. I had to deviate westward for a few hundred yards to get access to the Hadrian’s Wall Path but I was soon heading in the right direction up to the large cross and chapel at Heavenfield. Here a couple were struggling to erect a small marquis from which to sell teas to the afternoon pilgrims. I could not wait; I had a long day in front of me. So, after a brief glance inside the chapel and then offering a helping hand in the tent erection process, I set out along the National Trail. This I followed for five or six miles to Halton Shields where my Way turned northwards along field paths passed at old windmill and into to Great Whittington. Here the pub, a Chinese restaurant, was closed. It was getting hot now and, in the total absence of any refreshment emporium, I sat on the grass for a few moments near to Click ‘em In Farm. The route-finding across the next hill was rather tricky but I eventually found the correct line and dropped down to a road and war memorial. Here a runner came towards me, a lad reccying the route for a race along its entire length next month. Two more miles of road took me to Little Bavington where a series of field paths led uphill passed Clay Walls Farm. Here, coming towards me through a herd of very frisky cattle, was another runner making the same reccy. He has the courtesy to come turn back with me and help me through the rampant beasts.  More farmland was crossed until I could see Kirkwhelpington ahead and on the hill above it, my destination. The rough ground up this last hill was not my most pleasant memory of the day but I was soon on the lane that led to the hotel at Knowesgate.

Hexham dep. 08.45, Knowesgate arr. 17.25   GPS 23.93 miles in 8hr 16m 57s moving plus a 10 min lunch stop near Great Whittington.

I stayed at the Knowesgate Inn which did have a room ready for me despite my worst fears. This hotel has gained a poor reputation and it is not the Ritz. It is a roadside inn that it developing as a motel. I found it fun to stay there and I enjoyed a great meal of lamb shank. The only real ale was in bottles (Doombar 4%) but I was desperate so I had two.

 

Sunday 7^th August 2016       Knowesgate – Weldon

With a Following Wind

A great wind had arisen during the night and it looked quite wild from the breakfast table. So I donned a waterproof before venturing outside but the rain held off and it acted more as a windproof. I was blown across the high farmland and passed the plantations. Eventually I arrived at the entrance to Harwood Forest and, from thereon, it was more sheltered. The route through the forest was mostly on wide tracks although there were a couple of sections on narrow overgrown paths. The way rose gentle until it suddenly exited the forest at the highest point on the entire five days. I burst out of the trees at Cairn Coquet onto magnificent mountain scenery with Simonside away to the left. The section across to Spylaw Farm was probably the best of the whole route. Then it was down to the car park at Lordenshaws and round the iron-age fort to reach the final steep descent into Rothbury. Crossing the bridge, I was faced with an attractive looking café (Tomlinson’s) and was soon ensconced with coffee and scones.

The short afternoon section began by re-crossing the bridge and proceeding along a road and old railway line along the right bank of the River Coquet. The route did not follow the river but scrambled up and down surrounding countryside to steer in a straight line as the river meandered on its way. After passing several farms, a farm track led to a lane and a short section on tarmac. The last couple of miles into Weldon Bridge looked simple on the map but caused me a few route-finding problems. I ended up asking the way from a very helpful local who invited me to climb her garden fence to get back onto the right of way. The last area of woodland, passing a weir in the river, was very fiddly and I was quite relieved to pull out onto the road and cross the old bridge. The hotel was immediately on the other side.

Knowesgate dep. 08.42, Weldon arr. 16.40, GPS 21.10 miles in 7hrs 31m 00s walking time plus a 35 minute lunch stop (13.45-14.20) in Rothbury.

I stayed at the Anglers Arms in Weldon, having a magnificent meal of belly pork and blue cheese sauce followed by ginger sponge and custard. The Hobgoblin Gold (4.5%) was very well kept on hand pump. A truly wonderful hotel.

Monday 8^th August 2016    Weldon – Alnmouth

Medieval Tournaments

A storm had raged all through the night. At one point I got up to close the bedroom windows as the howling wind was shaking the room. But the sun was shining as I left the hotel and there was not a cloud in the sky. The first few yards were not consistent with the guide book. The signed route went under the A697 on an anglers' path along the riverbank before turning uphill back to the farm track. This was followed for some way and it was very easy going compared with yesterday. Except for one section of overgrown path, the section to Felton was a walk in the park. In fact that was just where it ended up, passing under the A1 and out into Felton Park with its peaceful old church in the trees to the left. I immediately came upon another church, this one being the parish church noticeable for its very low roof over the nave. Keeping to my pilgrimage objectives, I spend five minutes inside before descending to the attractive bridge over the river. The route continued along the right bank of the river into a very flat section of farm tracks, fields and narrow lanes. I passed under the East Coast Main Line which was to feature again later in my journey. Then the way turned left onto a tarmacked bridleway which led directly into Warkworth. I could see the castle up ahead with its flag flying in the sunshine. The castle was pack out with visitors watching re-enactments of medieval tournaments. However I could still buy a ticket to view the castle and I spent a wonderful half hour watching the pageants from the majestic old keep. Then it was a quick dash into town to get a coffee and Victoria sponge cake.

 
I crossed the River Coquet for the last time and climbed a steep hill towards the golf course and the sea. This dropped me through a car park and on to a huge sandy beach and the Northumberland Coast Path. I was to follow this for the rest of my trip. I was faced with a two mile plod up firm sand close to the water. This took me right up to the River Aln as it flowed in a channel across the beach and out to sea. The town of Alnmouth was tantalisingly close across the water. I could almost reach out and touch it. In retrospect I should have taken my shoes and socks off and waded across. I was later told by my landlady that this would have been quite safe. But I did not know the depth and flow rate of the river so I turned inland and followed the official route for three miles round to the main bridge. So, an hour later than I needed to have been, I arrived at my b&b. I had a quick shower and changed so I could take a look round this lovely village, but as soon as I started my tour it started to rain. So I was driven into a pub to shelter. What can a man do?

Weldon dep. 09.14, Alnmouth arr. 16.20, GPS 17.47 miles in 6hr 04m 30s walking time plus a 70 min break in Warkworth to see the castle and have some refreshments.

I stayed at the Old Granary in Northumberland Street in Alnmouth. I ate at the Sun Inn, duck confit with a couple of pints of Golden Sheep (4.7%) from Black Sheep Brewery.

 

Tuesday 9^th August 2016    Alnmouth – Seahouses

Pub and Castle

Last night’s rain had cleared as I set out under blue skies into a chill north westerly. This blew in cloud and light drizzle as the day went on and I ended up wearing my waterproof (just to keep warm). The route left Alnmouth over two golf courses, the second of these, Foxton Hall, led me back to the beach. I tramped up the wet sand to Boulmer and then went ashore onto wonderful grassy tracks round headland after headland. This brought me to Craster where the smoke was seeping out of the roof of the fish-smoking house. I hope they have got authorisations for the air emissions.

Beyond Craster, the way is over well-walked grassland dominated by the view of Dunstanburgh Castle on the next headland. It must be one of the most evocative sights in England. There was little point in stopping to view the ruin: it is best seen from a distance. So I hurried on into a wetting drizzle and quickly came round to the tiny hamlet of Low Newton and shot into the Ship Inn with is Brewhouse. I tried a pint of their home brew and sat outside with a bag of peanuts. But it was too cold to sit for long and there was more drizzle in the air.

I continued along the coast path passing several groups of youngsters practising for their Duke of Edinburgh’s next month. More grass and golf courses took me to Beadnell, a not very attractive village of bungalows facing the sea. I took to the beach again north of the last house to avoid two miles of road walking and then had to scramble up through the dunes back to the road to get over the next stream. A fun-fare was making a racket as I entered Seahouses and here I turned right over another golf course to reach the last headland before the harbour. I followed Main Street through the town centre and out to the edge of town to find my accommodation for the night. I showered and changed so that I could have a quick look around the shops and harbour, but I easily succumbed to temptation and slipped into the Olde Ship Inn for a pint. 

Alnmouth dep. 08.54, Seahouses arr. 15.35, GPS 18.31 miles in 6hrs 13m 38s walking time with a pub stop at the Ship in Low Newton (13.30 – 14.10). Drank a pint of Sandcastles at Dawn (3.8%) brewed at the pub.

I stayed at Ugiebrae, Main Street, Seahouses. I had a drink in the Olde Ship Inn, Sundancer (3.5%) from High House Farm Brewery and ate at the Spice Garden Indian Restaurant (yes, you’ve guessed, it was Cobra beer!)

 

Wednesday 10^th August 2016    Seahouses - Lindisfarne

End of a Pilgrimage

I was early down for breakfast with my rucksack packed and ready to go. There was to be no easy start today. I had a bus to catch! I strode up the old railway line out of Seahouses, seeking the inland route over to Bamburgh. This was a mixture of fields and lanes, with little sign of them ever being used. Most walkers must go down the foreshore. I found myself on the road beside the castle which was a dominant feature above the village. I took the unofficial way across the cricket pitch and through the dunes but I was soon back on the road to the golf course. I crossed the course to Budle Point and then turned inland following the signs. I then met a section with clear metal signs taking me across and out of a caravan site. This left me on a lane which led up to the very busy B1342 where I had to turn left back towards Bamburgh to pick up the route again. I probably put on an extra half a mile in getting round this dubious unofficial diversion. Then there was a fiddley section around Wetton Mill before I got back onto a field path with a purpose.

I followed a series of roller-coaster fields until I could see Belford below me. I headed down to a crossing of the east coast main line which instructed me to ring the nearby signal box before crossing. I then came across the A1 with standing traffic following an accident: Through the village it was quiet and then I left town via Westhall after which I made a pig's ear of route finding up to Plantation Farm. Although there was no trod on the ground the way to Swinhoe Farm was more obvious. I then picked up a wide forest track that wound passed some reservoirs. Here I had my only stop of the day, just a ‘splash and dash’.

Just beyond this point, the route was joined by St Cuthbert’s Way which I followed down through fields and woods out onto the lane to Fenwick  Here it started raining in earnest and I was fully coated in rain-proofs as I crossed the A1 and came upon a party of Germans waiting to re-cross the east coast main line. Again the signalman was rung but this time the answer was ‘nein’. The Germans were momentarily confused but soon realised why when a Virgin train thundered passed on its way to Kings Cross. A second ‘phone call gave us the all clear and I was away passed the party of walkers and heading for the causeway. It would probably have been safe to cross the staked line across the sands but it was raining again and the route looked very wet and muddy. So I chickened out and set out along the busy road. I was soon able to get off tarmac onto the verge. The town of Lindisfarne took an age to get closer as the causeway curved around in a great arch. But eventually, with the rain now quite heavy, I came to the last bend before the packed car park. I continued quickly passed and on to the Priory where I gave my thanks to St Aidan for a pilgrimage safely and successfully completed.

Seahouses dep. 08.24, Lindisfarne Priory arr. 16.04, GPS 23.82 in 7hrs 36min 40sec walking time and a five minute break for an energy gel.

 
Aftermath

I changed out of my wet walking clothes in the gents’ toilet. Then I checked the bus times and went across the road for a coffee and carrot cake. Leaving it late to go out into the rain once more, I got back to the bus stop to find a long queue. For a few moments I thought I was in danger of not getting on but the bus driver packed us all in with standing room only for several passengers. I had been chatting in the queue with John from Hull who was also desperate to get off the island and catch a train. So when the bus pulled into the station car park at Berwick, he and I shot into the nearest pub for a very quick pint, Belhaven (it is near Scotland!), but I was dying of thirst. Back on the platform, John and I parted, he to go south and me to take a Cross-country Train to Glasgow Central. This was generally on schedule and I had time to get another ticket and jump on a Scot rail train to Ayr to visit my daughter and grandchildren.

I had walked 104 miles on a very diverse route of moor and mountain, river bank and coast path. I now needed a rest but was unsure whether a few days with the grandkids was going to provide it.