Peak District Boundary Walk (Part 3)

6^th- 9^th May & 20th July 2025

 

Introduction

 

It has been over two years since I last visited this long-distance trail. I had intended to complete the third and final stage of this walk around the boundary of the Peak District National Park last year. But it slipped down the priority list for several reasons. I had much better offers from walking companions, I was concentrating of the England Coast Path and I was not that impressed with this rather concocted route on long neglected paths. But it still hung over me as unfinished business so, with the unexpected continuation of the dry, sunny spring, I squeezed 4 days into a busy schedule and planned my return to the 2023 finish point, the Robin Hood Inn near Baslow. Two options were available, a long and convoluted series of buses from the west or the East Midlands train that circumnavigates the Peak District round to Chesterfield where I could bus in from the east. Once again my noble wife offered to take me down for the early morning train and I found myself searching for the correct bus stop in Chesterfield with no time for a coffee. All became clear in time for the short bus ride back to the Robin Hood.

 

 

Tuesday 6^th May 2025                      Robin Hood - Winster

Nine Ladies on Top of the Moor

 

The sky was clear, the day was sunny with a cold wind blowing over the moors. The bus dropped my in this remote spot on the A619 opposite the Robin Hood Inn, the exact point of my finish of Part II of this trail over two years previously. I soon located the stile and steps that led down a steep bank to a footbridge over Heathy Lea Brook. A tricky section up the valley though some marshy and muddy ground, led up onto the moor and a wide gravel farm track. This ran for two miles or so over flat upland heath to the ruins of Hob Hurst House. Here the path descended down Harland Edge to Hell Bank Plantation. I heard my first cuckoo of the year as I approached the trees. Down through the woods towards Beeley, there was an opportunity to miss out the village and head back over the ridge to Rowley where I had my first stop of the day, a quick pint of Hobgoblin Gold (4.2%) in the Grouse & Claret Hotel.

 

It was getting really warm now in the sheltered and shadowless two miles of tarmac up to Stanton Woodhouse. A long and convoluted route through fields and woodland, quarries and industrial ruins, eventually emerged onto Stanton Moor and another rest was taken whilst perched on one of the sacred stones of Nine Ladies Stone Circle. A homemade flapjack and all my water were quickly consumed before I set out across the moor on a gradually descending path that led towards Birchover. My route continued south through Barn Farm and across the fields to Winster, the only memorable feature being a sharp drop down a wooded escarpment half way along. What goes down must come back up and I was faced with an uphill finish to the day which got steeper and steeper as I climbed to the top of the village. A short deviation to the west brought me to the Miners Standard, my resting place at the end of day one.

 

Robin Hood dep. 10.55, Winster arr. 17.20

GPS 11.42 miles in 6hr 46mins 23secs walking time with a 30-minute break in the pub in Rowsley and 10 minutes at the stone circle.

Stayed at the Miners Standard above Winster and a large plate of fish and chips washed down by a couple of pints of Aldwark Pale IPA (4.8%).

 

 

Wednesday 7^th May 2025             Winster – Thorpe

 

I was up and packed early (for me) as there was no breakfast on offer in the pub but the café next door, owned by the same people, cooked me a full English. I set off on a bright but chilly morning to contour around the top of Winster and back onto route for the 3-mile moorland crossing to Bonsall. A view of the village opened out as the path entered its dramatic descent down the German steps, built by prisoners of war in the 1940’s. The road through the village was quiet but the café at the water fountain monument was doing a good trade. Even though it was early, I popped in for a scone and coffee. After all this would be the only café I would pass today. This prepared me for the big pull up the steps and back up to the limestone moors. The path ran through a series of small fields and endless dry-stone walls before crossing an area of disused mining, now returning to heath. A stretch of farmland then bought me to a quiet lane at Ible.

 

Following the lane towards Grangemill, I was tempted by the short cut down a steep limestone edge. Here a party of girls on a Duke of Edinburgh expedition were in a face-off with some highland cattle. But all was in order as I picked my way down the steep ground through thorn trees. It would probably have been as quick to go round by road. At the bottom was a four-way traffic system which did nothing to help the walker get across the busy road junction at the Hollybush Inn. On the bridleway up south side of the main road, I met first the teacher overseeing the DOE students, then a series of small groups of boys from the same school as the girls so far ahead. The indistinct trod up to the High Peak Trail, over cattle-grazed grassland, seeing to go on for ever and I was most relieved to climb the wall stile onto the old railway line and into the shade of some overhanging trees. This called for ten minutes on a bench rehydrating and snacking on flapjacks.

 

Two miles on the trail were as much as I could bear and I was glad to reach the turn off to Roystone Grange. A pleasant grassy descent led to a farm track and a 1½ descent to the quarries at Ballidon. At its main entrance, a security man guided me onto a hidden path that climbed a very steep field up to the top end of Monsdale Lane. I was quickly down into Parwich and a route through the village that seem to avoid any signs of life and refreshments. Without seeing any pub, I was out the other side on a track between hedges which gradually led  onto an overgrown path to Sitterlow Farm. If I had not carefully read the route instructions, I would never have found the unmarked stile or the correct line up the steep fields to the top of the wood. Somehow, I came out right opposite the entrance to Lea Hall. There was still a sting in the tail of today’s route. A comfortable track led over the next few fields but the right of way did not keep to this. To get over to Woodeaves Farm the correct route dives down a field of cut grass, crosses  a small stream and then drops through a wooded dell before scrambling on unwalked and ungrazed fields to the farm yard. It was straight forward from here round to Lees Farm where the farmer pointed out the field path and stile system to Fenny Bentley. The scariest part of the day was crossing the A515 where quarry lorries crashed through the village at high speeds. Equilibrium was restored in the church yard before, to my horror, I realised the short section over to the Tissington Trail was up the steepest climb of the day. My b&b was only a short distance down the old railway.

 

Winster dep. 08.47,  Thorpe arr. 18.15 

GPS 17.93 miles in 8hrs 50mins 41secs walking with 30 mins in the Fountain Café in Bonsall and 10 mins rest on the High Peak Trail.

I stayed at the Station House b&b in Thorpe and walked up the lane to eat at the Old Dog. A magnificent (if expensive) meal of pork belly, new potatoes and beautifully done carrots. The beers were Hartington IPA (4.5%) from Whim Ales and Lord Marples (4.0%) from Thornbridge.

 

 

Thursday 8^th May 2025        Thorpe – Upper Hulme

A Mile too Far

 

A small cooked breakfast prepared me for the big day, the longest day of the trip. An early start got me quickly through Thorpe village to the parish church where a descending track led down to the River Dove and Coldwall Bridge. On the far side the route headed right along the river, initially through thorn-covered scrub and then into grass meadows to the road bridge at Ilam. Passing the large monument, the grounds of Ilam Hall were entered. I kept to the outside path that led to the chapel, where a path through the graveyard came out facing the magnificent façade of the old hall. Rounding the huge bend in the river, I ended up travelling north until I reached the footbridge into the meadows on the other side. I was now face with a brutal climb up a steep wooded escarpment to a high ridge above the river valley. Continuing more gently uphill, the path passed the ruins at Upper Musden and then contoured around Musden Low to Upper Green House and the village of Carlton. The drop into the Manifold Valley was a delight on a zig-zagging grassy path that led down to the old railway, now the Manifold Trail. An easy mile into Waterhouses and the busy main road and, glory be, there was a café in the old station car park. I sat in the sun and enjoyed a toastie and coffee, a welcome surprise.

 

The path out of Waterhouse was a devil to find. With careful navigation across unwalked and uncut fields, I was eventually able to find Rocester Lane and followed this into Waterfall village. Another tricky section led over to Back o’ th’ Brook where a woman was watering her lawn. That is a first for Staffordshire in early May. The track towards Ford started clearly enough but soon disintegrated into an overgrown path along the outside of a field. A series of field paths, some stepping stones over a stream and a steep pull up to the farm at Felthouse was relatively straight forward but then the pointless thrashing around the overgrown paths and the broken stiles behind the cottage and the disappearance of all signage really began to annoy me. I was getting fed up with trying to follow this awful route and my mood did not improve until I reached the lanes at Ford. A mile of tarmac was a blessed relief but this eventually led to more overgrown trods into Onecote. It was getting late in the day so I decided to miss out a stop at the Jervis Arms. This proved a big mistake which came back to haunt me later in the day.

 

In the heat of an oppressive afternoon, I set off up a quiet lane and into the yard of Onecote Grange. Here the route rose up several pathless fields before joining a farm track that continued to climb gently up a ridge. At one point I found myself on the wrong side of a wall and had to climb back onto route to pick up the path to Mixon Grange. A track out of the top end of the farm was fenced off from the hill above but a water or communications facility had an access road that dropped steeply down to Old Mixon Hay and the road beyond. It was whilst walking the two-mile road section that things started to go wrong. I began to develop a lean, indicating excessive tiredness or dehydration. Maybe I should have popped in for a pint in Onecote. By the time I reached the Mermaid and the turn off the road, I was definitely wobbly on my legs and by the time I slipped and fell down the hillside to Hurdlow Farm, I wondered how I was going to manage the last mile down the road to my hotel. The farmer was feeding her cattle as I explained that I had walked myself to a stand-still. She kindly offered to run me down to the hotel and I climbed into her vehicle, grateful for the kindness of this lady and all mankind. She pulled into the car park and dropped me at Reception so I only had yards to stagger up to my room and collapse on the bed. Copious amounts of water and a shower started my recovery but I was dubious about being able to continue tomorrow.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Thorpe dep. 08.37,  Upper Hulme arr.19.25

GPS 19.00 miles in 10hrs 03mins 36secs walking time plus 20 mins on a bench at the café in Waterhouse old station.

I stayed in the Three Horseshoes Inn, near Leek. The meal was chicken coconut curry and lemon sponge and custard. The beer was Heart and Soul (4.4%) from Vocation Brewery. This played a vital role in my rehydration programme.

 

 

 

Friday 9^th May 2025             Three Horseshoes – Rushden Spencer  

Gun Ends It All       

 

So near to total exhaustion had I been last night that I was all for pulling out of my plan to walk on for a fourth day. I had the choice of walking 3 miles down the main road into Leek to catch the bus home or I could stagger on for a few more miles on route and aim to catch the bus from Rushden Spencer. The latter gave me the opportunity of finishing the walk in one go later in the month so I strolled into the beautiful morning light and enjoyed views of the Roaches and Tittesworth Reservoir. Keeping off the pace I was fine walking through Meerbrook village and out onto the field paths beyond. A broken and overgrown stile at Lower Wetwood Farm gave me more problems, scratches and cuts. The ascent of Gun Hill started in earnest as I slowly plodded up grassy pathless fields passed Oldhay Top and on up the farm track to the crest of the ridge. A section of tarmac led to a lovely grassy descending track to Gun End. 

At Hawksley Farm, I said my goodbyes to the boundary path for the time being. It was a struggle to find the side path to Heaton as a rickety old farm truck had been parked across the access point. The normally muddy walled path was bone dry and very overgrown but I took my time pushing my way through and eventually emerged onto the road towards Heaton. Approaching the hamlet a Chelsea tractor pulled up beside me and a kind gentleman offered me a lift down to the pub in Rushden. He was most insistent that I chose the Royal Oak as it seems that he owned it as part of the community scheme to buy and ensure the future of their pub. I was soon ensconced on a luxurious sofa drinking Wincle Waller from the local brewery. I had time for a large piece of chocolate cake before catching the bus from outside the pub into Macclesfield bus station. We missed the connection with my local bus up the hill and, as I was too tired to the walk the 1½ miles home, I waited half an hour for the next bus. Home at last after some of the roughest and hottest walking I have done for a very long time.  

 

Three Horseshoes dep. 09.44, Heaton arr.13.00

GPS 5. 64 miles in 3hrs 08mins 27secs

Had refreshments (Wincle Waller 3.8%) at the Royal Oak, Rushden Spencer whilst waiting for the bus home..

 

Sunday 20^th July 2025            Gun End – Bollington                       

Gun End Revisited

 

With 15 miles of the route still remaining, my great walking friends Viv and Tony made me a very find offer. If I would consider finishing the project on a Sunday, we could add this to our regular Sunday jaunts, albeit a very long one, and they would accompany me to the finish and help celebrate the achievement. With all of us having a comprehensive programme of summer walks, it was not until July that we could find a mutually convenient date for the undertaking. With Jill’s assistance, I was able to park my car on the Saturday in Bollington close to the finish and then await a pickup from Tony on Sunday morning for the drive out to Gun End near Swythamley. The forecast was for heavy showers but it was dry and overcast as we secured Tony’s car near Hawksley Farm and began our descent to Gig Hall and the River Dane. The route was familiar to us as far as Nettlebeds Farm but here it took one of its characteristic loops into the wilderness of seldom-walked paths. A section of temperate rain forest up to Lower Greasley farm took an age to battle through before Barlow Hill was crossed and the Wild Boar Inn was reached. Grassy fields now took us down into Wildboarclough and a long road section along to the Crag Inn. This is no longer a licenced pub but is now the headquarters of Crag Spring Water, a bottling an canning plant that sends water fron a local spring to restaurants and clients around the country. As it is only open at Sunday lunchtime, we went in and tested the waters, and of course the coffee.

 

Re-energised by a nibble of our sandwiches, we set ou on the most challenging part of the day. As we began the climb of Shutlinsloe the rain started and by the time we were at our highest point of the walk, as often happens, it was bucketing down. To avoid getting cold we contoured round the summit and headed down into Macclesfield Forest. We were out of the wind in the trees and had warmed up considerably by the time we reached the visitors’ centre and the Forest Snug mobile café in the car park. Time for another coffee and some cake all purchased from a grumpy owner to whom customer care was not a priority. I could have any type of coffee I wanted as long as it was coffee and milk. So, I had mine black and then moved on. It had stopped raining as we reached Ridgegate Reservoir and we were just embarking on the round the lake path, the official route, when a passerby pointed out the 'footpath closed’ signs. We retreated and took the direct route to the Leathers Smithy and on to Bottom Reservoir. Across the wall of the dam, the next big climb awaited us. Steep steps led out of the woods onto bare slopes with great views opening out. The green disc signs took us round the ‘nose’ and back through the old quarry workings. On home ground now, we lengthened our strides passed Tegg’s Nose Country Park café (now closed) and along the Gritstone Trail to Rainow. Five o’clock was striking on the church clock as we crossed the main road and set off up our last climb of the day. A music festival could be heard to our right as we slowly ascended Kerridge Hill. Once again we contoured under the summit and picked up the signed route again on its steep drop into Bollington. A last section of road down High Street took us directly to Pool End car park and the point at which I had begun this trail three years previously. An awful lot of water has gone under an awful lot of bridges since then.

 
Gun End dep. 09.21, Bollington arr.17.50

GPS  15.09 miles in 7 hrs 42 mins 53 secs walking time with 30 mins in the Crag Inn eating our butties and 30 mins at the Forest Snug sampling their cafes and coffee.

After collecting Tony’s Car from Gun End, we all retired to our house where Jill had prepared us a beautiful salad meal giving the day a perfect end.

 

Conclusion

What began as a 50-mile walk to celebrate the LDWA anniversary in 2022, over three years ago, grew into a bit of an epic. I had decided that I might as well continue ticking off sections of the Peak District Boundary Walk as part of my 5-day trail walking programme. As my clockwise journey ventured into pastures new, I became increasing frustrated with the route choice, based on the nearest right of way to the national park boundary. The gratuitous excursions onto overgrown and seldom-walked footpaths were annoying and reduced the average walking pace significantly. 15-miles days were taking far longer than expected and arrival times had to be stretched. 18-mile days were getting beyond my aging legs. And the Staffordshire part of the route was particularly taxing and difficult to navigate. I therefore was not unhappy to put this trail behind me. The only compensation was that I have learnt a lot about the region I live in, having visited places near home that I never knew existed. But I shall now move on the tackle trails that have more definite lines through the landscape and that have more purpose to them. 

 

Peak District Boundary Walk (Part 2)

26^th- 30^th March 2023

 

Introduction

 

Last year, as part of the 50^th anniversary celebrations of the Long-Distance Walkers Association (LDWA), the South Manchester Group walked a 50-mile section of the Peak District Boundary Walk (PDBW). Starting in Bollington, several of the group followed the route for three days around the boundary of the national park finishing in Old Glossop. Ever since, I have been pining to continue what we had started with a view to completing the entire 190 miles of the trail. Through the dark winter months, I kept fit with weekly day walks so that I was ready for the spring walking season. At last, the clocks were put forward and a window of dry weather appeared. On the very first day of summer time, I begged a lift to the station for an early train the Manchester and onwards to Glossop. By 11.30am, I was emerging from the station and heading up Norfolk Street towards the old town and the Bulls Head pub where last year’s trek had terminated.

 

Sunday 26^th March 2023                  Old Glossop - Diggle

Pots and Pans

 

The promised dry weather manifested itself as I set out from the Bulls Head into the Derbyshire countryside. A rising field path, grassy but muddy in parts, led over a ridge, crossed a busy road and descended passed a tree-lined graveyard into Padfield. A young couple ran passed, following a guidebook of a different round. I proceeded more slowly over the Longdendale Trail and down to the reservoirs. On the wall of the dam, I asked a young woman to take my photograph with Bottoms Reservoir and Bleaklow in the background. The steep climb up the north bank and into Tintwistle led to another Bulls Head. Leaving the village via Arnfield Lane, the sunlit ridge of Lees Hill opened up ahead.

 

From Arnfield farm it was quite a pull up and over moorland paths. A track led between the Swineshaw Reservoirs and then climbed yet again to a magnificent viewpoint overlooking Mossley. An awkward stony descent led out onto a narrow lane that descended to a new housing estate. This was circumnavigated round to a path contouring below Buckton Castle, an ancient fortification from the 12^th century. Pausing for a brief conversation with a local couple who were able to identify the football ground and other features of Mossley, I then walked on to find a quiet spot for a late lunch. On the single-track lane to Fern Lee Farm, four girls in a car, hopelessly lost, asked me for directions. The last I saw of them was turning  in a farmyard and heading back the way they had come. As I approached Dove Stone Reservoir, a heavy shower of rain passed through, giving cause for waterproofs; not what I really wanted at the start of the last climb of the day.

 

The path from Hollins Lane, as indicated in the guidebook, appeared to have been closed. An obvious detour, not marked as a right of way, had a PDBW green marker disc so I assume this is now the official route. What came next was cruel. A steep grassy track led up Alderman’s Hill, the end of which is an outcrop of rocks known by locals as Pots and Pans. A stone obelisk war memorial overlooked Greenfield and its valley. The correct line beyond the obelisk was not immediately obvious and I was briefly heading down towards the Isle of Skye road before I corrected back to the northwest edge. Slipping and sliding down the steep path to Pobgreen, the route followed lanes below Running Hill Head. A featureless set of fields proved difficult to navigate and I was glad of my digital maps to find the best line across to Diggle. My accommodation for the night was 0.3 miles off route and it was nearly 7pm before I arrived. My landlady suggested that I should get to the pub as soon as possible because they finished cooking early on a Sunday so I dropped my rucksack and continued the short distance down to the Diggle Hotel.    

 

Old Glossop dep. 11.35, Diggle arr. 18.50

GPS 16.22 miles in 7hr 03mins 10 secs walking time with a 15-minute break near the obelisk.

Stayed at the Sunfield Accommodation in Diggle, a lovely b&b in the oldest part of the village. I ate just down the lane in the Diggle Hotel, an old-fashioned ale house. The kitchen was about to close so I quickly ordered suet rag pudding and chips followed by sticky toffee pudding. The beers were Butterley (3.8%) for Ossett Brewery and Landlord (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor. I was joined for the meal by Robert and Lucy-Jean from Oxford, a couple walking the Pennine Way and staying at the hotel.

 

 

Monday 27^th March 2023             Diggle – Holme - Holmbridge

No Food on Mondays

 

It was duck eggs for breakfast, thanks to of the Indian runner ducks that trotted around the garden. Taking a leisurely start to the day, it was 9.45am before I got my boots on and was strolling back up to the PDBW. Rising tracks and field paths led up to Standedge and the main road over the Pennines. Through the car park, the Pennine Way was flagged almost the entire way over Black Moss. The final drop into Wessenden was steep and slippery and I had to pick my way carefully down to the footbridge and then scramble the other side. The section round the back of Wessenden Lodge and up to the top track was not obvious and I ended in a boggy gully before shinning straight up the hillside. There was a wonderful mile long section along the edge of the moor with views of Marsden opening up below. On Brin Hill the route plunged left down steep lanes and paths, emerging on a road that led into Marsden town centre. Here was a lovely little cafe that provided a light lunch and the energy for a long afternoon.

 

Back the way I had come and all the way up to the top of Binn Moor, I felt it was a very strange addition to the boundary walk; almost 2.5miles out and back in order to visit  Marsden. The flat section alongside the Deer Hill Conduit was a welcome relief and I got a goodly pace going around the shooting lodge and reservoirs. In glorious sunshine, I contoured above Meltham on a crisscross of tracks and lanes. A long climb onto Royd Edge ended at a viewpoint over the clough below and the hills beyond. The drop into the Royd Edge Clough was followed by a path through a shady wood and a rocky ascent up the far bank and onto a road. This rose forever upwards to a busy trans-Pennine road, which was crossed near the Huntsman Inn. On the devious descent into the next valley, I came across two teenagers pushing bikes, seeking advice on the best route up to the Huntsman. I hope my suggestion was of some help.

 

I pause briefly at Digley Reservoir to take a selfie before tackling the final section of the day, a gentle path along the waterside and then a series of small fields and squeeze stiles. The village of Holme eventually came into view, the end of the PDBW section for the day. There was apparently no accommodation so I had booked a b&b in the nearest village, 1.5 miles down the road in Holmbridge. At least it was downhill and dry and I came at last to the Pickled Pheasant, which promised the only food in the village. I popped in to reserve a table only to be told that there was no food on Mondays so I continued my wearisome way to the  b&b. This appeared empty but my room number was on a slate near the front door so I let myself in, showered and changed and came down to meet my landlady. She advised me to catch a bus and seek food in Holmfirth, some two miles down the road. She even showed me where the bus stopped. It had been a long warm day and I was glad to get off my feet.

 

Diggle dep. 09.46,  Holmbridge arr. 17.50 

GPS 17.41 miles in 7hrs 25mins 40secs walking with 40 mins in Mario’s Diner in Marsden (13.00- 13.40).

I stayed in Corn Loft House, a lovely b&b run by Trevor, a local councillor. Catching the 18.38 bus from outside the front door, I was in Holmfirth in 10 minutes, stepping out into the magnificent stage set from the Last of the Summer Wine. Asking a local couple for advice, I crossed the river to the Old Bridge Inn where the food was superb. Persian lamb tagine, with apple crumble as a dessert. The Port Nelson (4.0%), a New Zealand Pale Ale from Small World Brewery was so nice that I sneaked in a second. A late bus took me back to Holmbridge and the b&b where I collapsed into a four-poster bed.

 

 

Tuesday 28^th March 2023     Holmbridge – Holme - Midhopestones

Helicopter Over Winscar

 

The window of dry weather had closed and dark, threatening clouds hung over the moors. I plodded my way back up the valley to Holme and the start of the day’s section on the PDBW. I was late leaving because my landlord, Trevor, was more interested in chatting than cooking the breakfast. It was nearly 10.30am before I was back enroute. The poor forecast had induced me to don full wet weather gear so I was well prepared for the rain that arrived. After an initial drop from Holme village, the route crossed the spectacular dam of Ramsden Reservoir, climbed a steep track beside a wood and ventured out over a wet hillside. The next couple of miles were on wide straight tracks across dreary flat land before a right turn into a forestry road broke the monotony It also broke the silence as I walked towards a group of trainee foresters practising their chain saw techniques.

 

It was now hammering down and I was becoming increasingly bedraggled as I emerged onto a muddy lane searching for the path over to Harden. The guidebook had warned that signage was minimal over this featureless ex-mining and quarrying land. The problem was that there were too many paths rather than too few. So, with a modicum of a sense of direction, there was no problem in finding my way through the merk onto the busy road that ran beside Winscar Reservoir. The flight path of a helicopter came nearer as I passed through the car park and across the wall of the dam. The route as indicated in the PDBW guidebook, descending from the top of the dam, was blocked by a locked gate and a notice saying ‘no public access’. So, I continued along the access road, passing the point where the helicopter was picking up stones for a moorland drainage project. My entry into Dunford Bridge was down the steep road from the west. This led straight onto the Trans-Pennine Trail where a bench was perfectly placed for a lunch-stop.

 

Improvement work to the Trans-Pennine Trail was in evidence. At first the surface was a new rubbery substance that made for fast going. This led onto a hard dry surface for the two -mile stretch to the first bridge. At this point a field path led south for a further mile up to the very busy Woodhead Road. Crossing with care, forest tracks led down to Langsett Reservoir. A delightful woodland path ran beside the water and came out on the road crossing the wall of the dam. On the other side, a field path dropped down to the river emerging from the overflow. This led to a lane and the final section of the day’s walk up a steep path edged with a line of freshly planted trees. The path climbed up and along the edge of a cliff overlooking Midhope Reservoir. On a dry day the views would be superb but not today. I ventured down towards a track reduced to uncrossable mud by the passage of forestry vehicles. Taking to  the trees to find a dry route down, I still ended on my back side sliding down the hillside, At the junction with Mortimer Road, I turned off route to find my accommodation, a pub in the nearby village of Midhopestones. I was so wet that I stripped off all my wet gear and hung it to drip dry over the stone floor of the bar. Only then did I make my way to my room and a warm shower.

 

Holmbridge dep. 09.49, Midhopestones arr.16.00

GPS 15.08 miles in 5hrs 58mins 25secs walking time plus 10 mins on a bench on the Trans-Pennine Trail near Dunford Bridge.

I stayed in the Old Mustard Pot in Midhopestones. The meal was fish, chips and mushy peas followed by sticky toffee apple crumble and a cappuccino. The beer was Farmers Blonde (4.0%) from Bradfield Brewery and Landlord (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor.

 

  

Wednesday 29^th March 2023           Midhopestones -  Ringinglow                    

Wyming Brook        

 

The rains had abated, the skies had cleared and it was with a spring in my step that I let myself out of a deserted pub and set off up Mortimer Road. No breakfast was on offer so I was keen to get going towards an early lunch stop. Today was potentially my longest day. I was able to make good  progress on the road and out onto a delightful field path overlooking a steep-sided valley. The edge walk continued along a farm track and lane with joggers and dog walkers enjoyed the morning sunshine. The entry into Bolsterstone village was passed a   large graveyard rather tastefully set out. The impressive church had a commanding position over villages, both present and past. A steep road descended into Ewden village but the official route took a short cut through a wood emerging onto the road again near the river. Careful navigation was required to stay enroute around the head of the reservoir and up the steep fields beyond. After a rather curious loop up more fields, high ground was attained via a quarried hill top, the exit line from which was not obvious. I eventually found the section of road that would that lead in a convoluted manner towards my next destination, Bradfield. The mist was down and the line across the fields was not easy to pick out. A works hooter sounded like a foghorn, 12 noon, time for lunch, and that increased my pace as I headed rapidly downwards out of the mist.

 

The path entered Higher Bradfield opposite the parish church, standing as it does in a spectacular setting overlooking the lower village. I took the path through the church and graveyard and down a steep wooded path to Agden Reservoir. A quiet lane led towards Lower Bradfield but the signed path took a short cut bypassing the café that I was seeking for my first food of the day. Finding myself on a riverside path leading out of the village, I collapsed onto a bench and eat my entire emergency rations. Suitably reenergised, I then turned uphill onto the old coach road (not a marked right of way). This joined the road system at an impressive residence built like a mediaeval castle perched high above the valley floor. A seemingly endless climb took me through Ughill and then down a steep road losing all that hard-gained height. Repeating the climbing process must have clouded my navigation judgement because, after slogging up a pathless wet field, I missed a stile in the wall and followed my digital map into a cul de sac. I waste ten minutes scrambling over fallen trees before seeing my folly. Then it was for ever upwards up Royds Clough, and Crawshaw Lodge. Here the view into the Rivelin Valley opened out. All I had to do was lose all that height again.

 

Crossing the busy main road, the path ran along the steam that fed the reservoirs, emerging onto a wide forestry track the wound round the hillside above the dams. Then the route turned into Wyming Brook and another world. The next mile or so was my highlight of the week, a magical climb up a steep fast flowing stream. It was hard to believe that Sheffield was so close by: I could have been in the Canadian mountains. For twenty minutes I scrambled up a wet and rocky path over wooden bridges and over rocky outcrops. Eventually all good things come to an end and I gentle ascended to Redmires Road and the running routes of my university days. From there it was much more straight forward, up lanes and paths to Brown Edge Farm, a moment’s hesitation to find the correct line through old quarry workings and then over the fields to Ringinglow Road. A mile along the busy road, clinging to an inadequate grass verge, brought me to my overnight accommodation.

 

Midhopestones dep. 08.53, Ringinglow arr.17.15

GPS 19.01 miles in 8hrs 05mins 18secs walking time with 20 mins on a bench just outside Lower Bradfield.

Stayed at the Norfolk Arms in Ringinglow, eating chicken jalfrezi and drinking Moonshine (4.3%) from Abbeydale.

 

Thursday 30^th March 2023              Ringinglow – The Robin Hood Inn            

I’ve Got Three Buses to Catch

 

A wet mist obscured the view from my room when I opened the curtains in the morning but a watery sun was breaking through the gloom as I checked out of the hotel. I went without breakfast as this was expensive and time consuming on a day when I had got a bus to catch (or three). Forsaking the opportunity of donning full rain gear, I headed straight from the hotel door along Sheephill Lane and into the rough and rutted Houndkirk Lane. After 1½ miles, a narrow trod led left across the open moor which in this wet weather had become water logged and my path was a drainage channel. With boots now sodden, I emerged onto Hathersage Road, walked along it for a few yards and then descended into Blacka Dike. The stepping stones were under water but so was everything else. After a long pull up to a gate onto the moors, the route turned left and left again to contour beneath Wimble Holme Hill. Out onto the wild and windy tops of Flask Edge, the rain drove into my face and the ground became increasing saturated. The road walk that followed was a positive relief before a grass track traversed the next section of moorland and the end of my high-level morning plod.

 

The rain had stopped but the long descent to Car Road was horrendously slippery, first on wet clay and lower down on the ubiquitous mud. Car Road was more solid but with a torrent of run-off streaming down its gorged-out channels. The woodland section in the valley was a swamp with windblown trees across the muddy path acting as extra obstacles. A section on tarmac up Horsleygate Lane brought me to a bridleway leading steeply down into the village of Millthorpe: The Royal Oak pub had just opened. After an initial problem with an end of barrel beer, I settled for a Farmers Blonde, a pork pie and pickled onions and a bowl of mushroom soup. Much to my horror, when I came to be on my way, the rain had started again. This time it was not going to let up and I regretted not wearing my over-trousers. But I was wet now and needing to keep an eye on the time. Back though the quagmire, I got frustrated at the slow rate of progress, and to top it all, I tripped over a fallen branch and ended up with both hands and knees caked in mud. It was a pleasure to reach dry ground even though this was a mile-long path back up to the moors. A stretch of downhill road enabled me to increase my speed of travel.

 

From the very busy main road, my final moorland crossing started from a gate on a crossroads. I was disappointed that the wet and treacherous path did not provide easy walking. Thankfully I had time in hand before my rendezvous with the bus and I was able to pootle under the crags of Nelsons Monument and down to the Chesterfield Road and the Robin Hood Inn. I had 20 minutes to wait for the bus, not enough time for a coffee in the pub but the sun was now shining and I could sit out in warmer conditions. Stopping the bus was another problem. It descended down the main road towards me at quite some speed and I was jumping and waving at the bus stop to ensure that it could stop in time. But I was soon warm and dry and on my way to Bakewell where I had another 20-minute wait for the TransPeak service to Buxton. A 30-minute connection provided the opportunity of a coffee and cake so I was not too hungry as the Macclesfield bus crossed over the Cat & Fiddle towards home. One last commitment though. Thursday evenings are my regular ‘early-doors’ session with two mates. And this bus was heading right passed the pub. So, I was able to celebrate my successful trip round 80 miles on the Peak District Boundary with pints of Reverie (4.2%) from Abbeydale, Rattus Norvegicus (4.5%) from Rat Brewery and Isobar IPA (4.3%) from my home town brewery, Storm. What a fabulous conclusion to an adventurous week’s walking.

 

Ringinglow dep. 08.22, The Robin Hood Inn arr. 14.55

GPS 14.81 miles in 5hrs 58mins 10secs walking time with 30 mins in the Royal Oak in Millthorpe.            

 

 

Conclusion

 

During these five-days, I walked 82 miles in total, almost 80 miles of which was on the official route of the PDBW as per the guidebook published by the Friends of the Peak District. I found the trail not totally satisfying and would not place it in my favourite land-distance footpaths. The route is rather contrived, based as it is to following the nearest rights of way to the national park boundary. The excursions, out and back, whilst beneficial for stage and accommodation planning, were rather frustration to the through walker. However I had chosen to follow the guidebook so I followed every extrinsicity. The PDBW does however introduce the trail walker to new and fascinating corners of the Peak District and for that I am grateful to those who planned and promoted the idea. I intend to complete the round and should be able to manage that with a further four days of walking. And that will have the advantage of walking home.

Peak District Boundary Walk (Part 1)

Bollington – Old Glossop,   17^th – 19^th June 2022

Introduction

 

It was the weekend of the Long Distance Walkers Association’s 50^th Anniversary and the South Manchester Group had asked for suggestions as to how this might be celebrated. I  proposed that a 50-mile walk might be appropriate and that the Peak District Boundary Walk was a local route that was easily accessible. The 50 miles between Bollington and Old Glossop had good transport links with Manchester, Stockport and Macclesfield. After a slow acceptance and much reconnoitring, the scheme eventually gained momentum and received  great support from both the South Manchester and High Peak Groups.

 

Friday 17^th June 2022                       Bollington – Buxton

Hottest Day of the Year

 

Bridget and David had offered to pick me up on their way through Macclesfield and we called into the railway station to collect Andrea. We drove to the Vale Car Park in Bollington and walked up to Pool End, the official start of our walk. Frank and Quentin were waiting for us and just after 9am, the six of us set off on the first day of our 50-mile expedition. The forecast was for very hot temperatures so sun-cream and sunhats were the order of the day. The first 5 miles of the route were in a generally northerly direction taking us further away from Buxton, our ultimate goal. We stopped briefly to look at the capped coal shaft about Bakestonedale and again at the lovely cottages at Birchencliff. The Coffee Tavern on Shrigley Road was a tempting refreshment stop but it was far too early for such frivolities. Instead we paused for ten minutes at a bench on the canal tow-path before crossing the metal footbridge, listening to one of Quentin’s lectures, and ascending into Lyme Park.

 

The first major climb of the day led us up beside Lantern Wood and over the ridge to the old Moorside Hotel, now a school. An easy descent into Whaley Bridge emerged right opposite the Bridge Bakehouse where we sat in the sun and any shade we could find. I demolished a large piece of cake in preparation for the second half of our day’s walk and David went back for more. Down in the Goyt Valley and out of the breeze, it was really hotting up. We set off again into the park and up the side of the damaged wall of the dam which had made the national news three years ago. There was some shade along the wooded river as we walked through Taxal and up the valley passed Fernilee Reservoir. But once out on Errwood Dam and around Bunsal Cob, we were at the sun’s mercy. Andrea began to overheat as we traversed above Errwood Reservoir and climbed to the old railway line. The final climb over the last ridge at Beet Wood was a struggle in what we later learned was almost 30 degrees temperature.

 

It was a relief to be heading downhill at last and over the golf course towards Buxton. I had to wax lyrical about the bars of Buxton to prevent Andrea from disappearing into the golf club house for a drink. Instead she stood in someone’s front garden under a lawn sprinkler. Suitably cooled, we quickly dropped into town and through the Pavilion Gardens to the Buxton Brewery Tap where some local beers were quickly dispatched. Then Bridget, David and myself returned to my car which had been there overnight. I drove them back to Bollington and then drove home to a cold shower and a welcome meal.

 

 

Bollington dep. 09.04, Buxton arr. 17.30

GPS 19.09 miles in 7hrs 28mins 36secs walking time, plus a 40-minute stop in Whaley Bridge for coffee and cake and a 15-minute stop in the Goyt Valley.

We ended our day at the Buxton Brewery Tap and cooled off with a pint of Deepdale (4.0%), a session IPA from the local brewery.

 

 

Saturday 18^th June 2022               Buxton - Hayfield

Diversionary Tactics

 

My wife gave me a lift down to the bus station for the early bus over the Cat and Fiddle. David was also on the same bus. Thank goodness it was cooler today. Perhaps a little too cool as a brisk wind blew across the open spaces of Buxton Market Place. The customary group photographs were taken: a party some ten walkers strong set off at 9am heading for King Sterndale. Our numbers were swelled in the main by a group of women from the High Peak group of the LWDA. David G, the chairman of the South Manchester Group, regaled us with the story of his lucky escape from a rampant herd of cows in the very field we were passing through. The guidebook indicated that the original route turned into Deep Dale but this dale has long been closed due to erosion and industrial activities. So we were well prepared for the steep climb up to Caxterway Lane, the diversion route into Wye Dale. The bicycle hire kiosk was open for coffee and scones and the first refreshment halt of the day was called.

 

The next section began with a big climb up to Mosley Farm and over the fields to Wormhill. A road section took us passed Hargate Hall and over rough pasture to the descending path into Hay Dale. Our butty break was taken sitting on the rocks and shelfed grass half way along the dale. Then we quickly moved on along Dam Dale to Damside Farm. Here the route was signed towards Newhouses Farm and a busy road to Peak Forest. As we did not need to visit Peak Forest (no café, closed pub etc.) the chance of a short cut over the fields to Chamber Farm was too tempting. Looking behind us, we saw Frank, who had arrived an hour late at Buxton, coming up the road behind us. So now we were eleven, I had had great problems in finding the correct route around Middle Barwood Farm and up the gorsy bank above Boltedge Farm. But Gill and Bev, in the vanguard of the party, found all the stiles and overgrown paths with no trouble. After an altercation with a herd of cattle, mitigated by the Neil’s brave defiance, we dropped gentle down the fields to Blackbrook where we said goodbye to two of our group.

 

The afternoon section was short and sharp. After a brief refuelling stop at Bowden Head, the route climbed up to Malcoff Farm, dropped steeply down to the railway line before rearing up towards South Head. A wonderful high level track weaved between South Head and Mount Famine before beginning the long descent into Hayfield. Just above Peep-a-Day, we lost further members of the group but five staunch folk saw out the full route via Bowden Bridge and through the campsite into Hayfield Village. The Three Musketeers from High Peak continued down the road to their bed & breakfast. David and I jumped into David’s wife’s car for the drive home. A long and satisfying day, done to time and budget.

 

Buxton dep. 09.02,  Hayfield arr. 18.05

GPS 21.14 miles in 8hrs 18mins 10secs walking plus several short stops in Wye Dale, Hay Dale and Bowden Head.

 

 

Sunday 19^th June 2022                     Hayfield – Old Glossop

From Pike To Edge

 

It was my turn to drive. I picked up Bridget and David from Wilmslow and drove to Hayfield via the new road, the A555. My plan was to park up at the bus station car park and get a lift back at the end of the day with Steve and his son. But Steve’s son had withdrawn his offer so I drove in convoy with Steve to Old Glossop, dropped my car near the pub and returned with him to Hayfield. The car park was full with the competitors and supporters of the Tour of Tameside race. But we finally got away along the Sett Valley Trail some ten minutes late, picking up the High Peak Team from near their Birch Vale b&b. The climb up Lantern Pike seemed endless, initially up a rising track through some woodland and then up a step path beside a wall onto the summit ridge. The view from the trig point was restricted by grey gloom across the landscape.

 

The convoluted route down to Rowarth passed much more quickly and we were soon admiring the manicured surrounds of the Little Mill. On my recce I had followed the map but today I took the signed track to the right which was described in the text of the guidebook. I believe that this is not the only point where map and text disagree. I can only assume that the updates in the transcript are not reflected in the strip maps. Leaving the village on our second climb of the day we paused for a few minutes to eat our sandwiches and then completed our ascent onto Cown Edge. The flat grassy ridge was too wide to provide much in the way of good views but it was easy walking. The northern end of the ridge offered the best views down to Charlesworth and Glossop. I have a long history with the next descent, having failed to find the correct route on three previous visits. But now I had it spot on, aided of course by my new Ordnance Survey App on my phone. We soon were standing on a traffic island on the main road into Glossop.

 

The official route of course does not take the road but circumnavigated a new housing estate and by-passed Glossop Town Centre on a high-level path to the east. This eventually deposited us at a road crossing and the entrance into Manor Park. It was busy with Sunday family activities so we quickly passed by the bowling greens and out via the Queens Arms  into Church Road South. At the top of here stood the Bulls Head, our final destination and the end of our 50-mile treck. I was treated by Bev to a pint of White Rat (4.0%) from Ossett Brewing and we sat outside and toasted the LDWA, ourselves and our successful venture. I returned Steve to his car in Hayfield and then drove home with Bridget and David. A most enjoyable weekend for all concerned.

 

Hayfield dep. 10.10, Old Glossop arr.14.15

GPS 9.21 miles in 3hrs 45mins 03secs walking time plus a 15mins butty break above Rowarth.

 

Conclusion

 

We felt that we had done justice to the 50^th Anniversary of the LDWA. The South Manchester Group had turned out in force, nobly supported by our colleagues in High Peak. I have promised to lead the first section again next year for those who, because of work commitments, could not make this year’s Friday start. For my own part, I have made a start with a trail that I really should get to know better. So I plan to return to Old Glossop in the not too distant future and continue on to Marsden and Ringinglow. Perhaps next year I will have got all the way round, either by myself or with LDWA members who fancy the challenge.