Northern Highlands

Strathpeffer - Kinbrace, 30^th May – 3^rd June 2015

 

Introduction

We returned to the north of Scotland, to Strathpeffer where we have finished last year, to resume our annual pilgrimage towards John O’Groats. We had started so long ago that it was difficult to recall the number of years and all the start/finish points. In fact my daughter was still at university when we began our journey and she is now expecting her fourth child. On the way north, I had called in to spend a few days with the grandchildren and had then met Mike in Glasgow on Friday 29^th May. Together we caught the 13.41 train from Queen Street Station and, after changing at Perth and Inverness, eventually disembarked at Dingwall at 17.45 and caught the last bus towards Contin. On reaching Strathpeffer, I took Mike to the wrong hotel. Having booked at several highland hotels, I was convinced that it was the Highland Hotel here in Strathpeffer. But it wasn’t. It was the Strathpeffer Hotel next to the bus stop. This did not augur well for the more demanding navigation still to come. The dining room was filled with a coach-load of elderly Germans. But we had a pleasant meal in the bar, fish and chips, bread & butter pudding and Maclachlan’s Real Ale (served cold from a cask). Afterwards we went for a postprandial and visited the Eagle Stone at the bottom edge of the village.

 

Saturday 30^th May 2015     Stathpeffer – Aultguish

The Wet Fish Road

The day dawned bright and fresh and not too cold so I donned my shorts. Little did I think at the time that it would be the only day I would wear them. After weaving through the Germans to get our breakfast, we set out soon after 9.00am and had a pleasant stroll up the hill and along the side of Loch Kinellan. Here we met a lone woman out walking without a dog. How rare is that now-a-days? She turned back to accompany us to the awkward fork in the forest and made sure we were on the right path. It was a wonderful help as there were tracks all over the forest but we unerringly found our way through and out onto the track to Rogie Falls. This was well worth visiting; an impressive sight when viewed from the middle of the footbridge. A fish ladder carved out of the rocks looked almost natural as it looped its way around the main falls. Back on the track we had an easy walk in the morning sunshine to Little Garve where we were very taken by the beautiful old bridge which the main road now bypasses. Here we met a woman finishing her run accompanied by her young son on his bike. She was training for the cross-Scotland race that passes through Tomich, one of our overnight stops last year. 

The map here was confusing. The original route onwards had been severed by the new road and looked impassable so we went the long way round, along the old road to the north-east and then across the main road and back along a forestry track. As we did so the weather turned, never to recover properly for the rest of our trip. By the time we reached the track junction, where a signpost indicated that the old drove road directly uphill from Little Garve might still exist, it was raining hard and we donned all our waterproofs. We had a quick bite to eat and set off uphill following the sign ‘Drove Road to Aultguish’.Unfortunately the underfoot conditions went downhill. The track was

swamped and our progress was slowed by continually having to scramble to either side to avoid deep puddles of slimy morass. After what seemed an age, we came out of the forest and onto an open moor. Now there was no protection from the squalls coming in from the west, but we could see the Aultguish Inn on the road below. But still the wet ground would not let go and in fact it got worse. In the end we abandoned the main path and slid down the wet hillside to the road some 500 yards short the inn. My legs were caked in brown peat so I stripped off shoes and socks and left them in the car park.

We had a lovely room. We were early enough to watch the Scottish Cup Final and to enjoy the exciting victory of the local Highland team. Then it was down for a pint before Jeff and Margaret arrived to join us for a meal. I had last met Mike’s old university mate and his wife at Struy on last year’s trip. And it was lovely to meet them again and exchange much news and opinion. Margaret, who seems an authority on this part of the world, told us that our wet afternoon tramp across the moors had followed the Fish Road, an old route for transporting fish from the west coast at Ullapool to the east side at Dingwall. We suggested it was more suitable for fish than for walkers. She also filled me with anticipation for a coffee shop at Shin Falls that we would pass in two days time. Then it was a last pint and an early night. We were in for a big day tomorrow.

 

Strathpeffer dep. 09.08, Aultguish Inn arr. 15.14.   GPS 16.69 miles in 5hr 52m 33s including a 10 min lunch stop.

We stayed at Aultguish Inn on the Garve to Ullapool road. I had exquisite venison & pheasant pie and Drambuie sponge pudding. The beer was Kildonan (4.4%) from Dundonnell Brewery at Little Loch Broom, by far the outstanding ale on this holiday.

 

Sunday 31^st May 2015       Aultguish – Bonar Bridge

Walking with Wolves

Throughout the planning stage of this walk, I had realised that the next stage north from Aultguish would be long, whether we chose the western route to Oykel Bridge or the eastern alternative to Ardgay. Discouraging reports were coming in on the mountain path over to Oykel Bridge. Then I could not find accommodation in Ardgay so we had no alternative but to go all the way through to Bonar Bridge. At least there will be food there awaiting us. Oh for the old bothy or a new guest house at Alladale Lodge or Croik!

With such a big day ahead of us, we breakfasted early and were on the road by 8.45am heading eastwards and downhill. What a dreary day! Drizzle coming from a grey sky. At least there was no wind and the umbrellas went up. This kept us dry until we turned off the road and into Strath Vaich. The first two miles were tarmacked but this led onto a muddy track under some woodland and then up over a low hill and down beside the three-mile long Loch Vaich. There was some activity below us at Lubachlaggan but otherwise we saw no-one in the glen. As we climbed up towards the bealach, the wind got stronger and I had to fight to get my umbrella down before it was destroyed. This only resulted in me cutting my finger which bled profusely for much of the day.

A delightful path dropped down into Shangri La, or Deanich Lodge as it was called on the map. The next six or seven miles were the highlight of the trip, a steady descent down the beautiful Gleann Mor alongside the river as it meandered through meadows or roared down rapids. In the middle of this we stopped to eat our two-day-old butties and then dropped down steeply into Alladale. We learnt later that this is where the wolf might get reintroduced to the Scottish mountains. I recalled meeting two young conservation workers in Namibia last year, who had told me about this scheme and their keenness to come and work on it,

Listening for every howl, we hurried on as we still had a long way to go. The weather was improving and we removed our heavy gear for the length of Strath Carron. It was to be ten miles of road walking at the end of a strenuous day. We crossed to the south side of the river, onto a quiet narrow lane. The map showed a riverside path for the last two miles, but this failed to materialise and we were tarmac-bound all the way. It seemed an age to get to Ardgay and then we marched straight through, over the railway and around the head of the Dornoch Firth into Bonar Bridge. The new bridge is quite elegant and, on the other side, the hotel was advertising its meals. It was only a few more yards to our overnight accommodation and the end of a very long day. I am getting too old for days like this.

Aultguish dep.08.45, Bonar Bridge arr. 18.15, GPS 30.56 miles in 9hrs 11m 17s walking time plus a 20 minute lunch stop (12.55-13.15).

We stayed at Kyle House, Dornoch Road, Bonar Bridge. We ate at the Old Bridge Hotel: haggis parcels for starters and fish & chips yet again. The beer was Belhaven Bitter but I was so thirsty, who cares.

 

Monday 1^st June 2015    Bonar Bridge – Lairg

No Coffee at Shin Falls

I had recovered better than I expected from yesterday’s exertions but I was still looking forward to a rest day. After a leisurely breakfast and without the usual hurried packing of sacks, we wandered down to the local shop and restocked our lunch-snacks. It was bright and breezy but with a cold wind that kept us under full body cover. I don’t think the shorts are going to appear again on this trip. In fact I sought out a pair of gloves.

I had considered backtracking to Ardgay and following the forest roads to the west of the river round to Carbisdale Castle. But the thought of retracing yesterday’s tarmac, and the worry about not being able to re-cross the river, put us off the idea and instead we marched for about 1½ miles north out of Bonar Bridge along the main road to Lairg. At the entrance to the Balblair forestry walks, we took to the forestry track that runs parallel to the road to the east of the river and which then drops you back onto it near Invershin Hotel. Here we were able to see the castle and read its short history from an interpretive board place beside the road. We also found that we could cross the river at this point. In 2000 a new footbridge was hung from the side of the railway bridge thus negating the need to have stations on each side of the river.

On Saturday night last, Margaret has heighten my interest in the Shin Falls by telling me of the coffee shop owned by Al Fayed. So for two days I had anticipated my first cappuccino of the trip. These thoughts speeded my footsteps over the next two miles or so of road, even though I was determined to stay off full pace for this my rest day. The sound of roaring water took us down some steps to the falls which were slightly disappointing after the Rogie Falls of two days ago. But we paused for a few minutes and took photographs and delighted in the situation. Then it was back up to the road and the visitor centre. Disaster! The silence and bareness was a huge shock. Everything had been burned down in a fire that had destroyed the centre, restaurant and coffee shop. There was nothing but a large slap of concrete and a nearly deserted car park. I was going to have to forego my coffee and cake.

A lady dog-walked was sitting in the car park and she told us that, as the storm damage forestry clearances were not taking place today, it would be possible to climb up into the plantations and pick up a forest track towards Lairg. This kept us off tarmac for two miles but then we had no alternative, without a big diversion, but to strike out again towards our target. From the map we could see a footbridge marked over the River Shin leading towards the railway station. We were hopeful for a way across the river as it would shorten our route into our overnight accommodation. We found the lovely suspension bridge and crossed one at a time as it appeared a little frail and swayed slightly. On the other side we met a male dog-walker who asked us where we were heading and when I told him we had crossed the river to find our bed & breakfast for the night, he introduced himself as Clive, the owner of the Highland House. We were almost there. Passing Lairg Station, it was only a few yards down the road to the lonely roadside house with its Saltire flying in the front garden. Clive had phoned ahead and we were expected.

As it was still only lunchtime, I had a quick shower and change of clothes and we walked up the road into town. Using the wall of the dam just north of the b&b, we crossed the river yet again and walked up the quiet lane to the Ferrycross Visitor Centre. Mike fancied a walk up to the local view point but I was more interested in my cake and cappuccino. So I spent a quiet half hour restocking mentally and physically in preparation for the big push that was to follow over the next few days. Mike re-joined me for a quick drink and we walked over the bridge into Lairg village centre. Blink and you miss this. The visitor centre quoted Paul Theroux, the travel writer, on arriving by train.

. ‘..the train pulled out and left me in a sort of pine-scented silence. Lairg Station was two miles from Lairg, but even Lairg was nowhere…’  

It was time for a pint so we nipped into the Nip Inn which was the bar of the Lairg Highland Hotel. So it was not a long stagger into next door’s restaurant for a meal of tandoori chicken & rice followed by sticky toffee pudding and ice cream. The beer was bottled Dark Island (4.6%) from Orkney brewery. By the time we finished, it was raining hard so we asked the hotel to get us a taxi and we rode out of town in style but at least we kept our only change of clothes warm and dry.

We stayed at Highland House, 88 Lower Toroboll, Lairg.

Bonar Bridge dep. 09.46, Highland House (a mile south of Lairg) arr. 14.00, GPS 11.43 miles in 3hr 59m 18s walking time plus a 13 min halt to eat a flap-jack and some nuts.

 

Tuesday 2^nd June 2015     Lairg – Crask

Road from Nowhere
The rained had ceased by the time we left Highland House and once more traipsed up the road into Lairg. We called at the local store to stock up with sandwiches for the next few days. We were heading out into a very remote part of the world now and would not be encountering any more shops. We had thought long and hard about an off-road alternative for today’s walk. The forests to the east of the road were criss-crossed with paths and it looked a distinct possibility to take a narrow lane northwards out of town to Seval and then over some open land to the edge of a forest. Global Earth had shown a forestry ride from the end of the path which would link up with the major forest track running north. But was there an unclimbable deer fence? And Mike had noticed that this track crosses a large burn without any indication of a bridge. Previous experiences of wading Scottish rivers had alerted us to the difficulties and dangers of river crossings especially after heavy rain.

So we took the safer option and walked eleven miles up the main road, which was single track for most of the way and would have been very quiet except for the fleets of German motorbikes. The weather had deteriorated again with heavy showers of rain blowing in on a very cold wind. So we were back to wearing full waterproofs, hats and gloves. Near North Dalchork we took a three mile loop through the forest to give our feet a break but, as most of the plantations had been clear-felled, we got preciously little shelter from the wind. The last mile was back on the road. It was a wonderful moment when we came round a bend and saw the Crask Inn ahead, two lonely buildings set in a huge landscape of bleak moorland with distant snow-covered mountains beyond.

As we approached the inn, it appeared to be closed. All was quiet and in darkness. There was a great sense of relief when, on trying the door handle, the door open and we entered a small dark room which had a bar at one end. A bell on the counter brought the lady owner who was out in the back trying to start the generator. But she paused in her task and made us a cup of tea and then eventually started the machine and gave us light. Her husband came in and lit the peat/wood-burning stove and
we got some warmth at last. Other people started to arrive. A couple of Dutch motorcyclists pulled in for a cup of tea before moving on, a Swiss cyclist who was staying in the bunkhouse across the road (the second building) and then a group of English cyclists in the early stages of a north-to-south end-to-end attempt. The inn and its bunkhouse were full by evening and we had a delightful night of good food, beer and chat in the company of a great set of people. Outside the rain was driven against the windows. Surely this bad weather must pass eventually.

Lairg (Highland House) dep. 09.39, Crask arr. 14.30, GPS 15.22 miles in 4hrs 31m 47s walking time plus a 14 minute (13.03-13.17) lunch halt.

We stayed in the Crask Inn, one of the most remote places one can imagine. I had a prawn cocktail for starters, then venison casserole and finished with Bakewell tart and ice cream. The beers were served draught from pins from the Black Isle Brewery Co., Blonde (4.6%) and Red Kite (4.2%).

 

Wednesday 3^rd June 2015     Crask Inn – Kinbrace Station

Burnt Out Bothy

What a dreadful morning. All the weather forecasts we had heard during the trip had promised us summer starting today. Not in the north of Scotland, it wasn’t! The windows of the inn were awash with rain driving across the bleak landscape. We had had our earliest breakfast, 7.30am, as we had a train to catch and we had no idea of the state of the ground we must cross. Soon after 8.30am, we stepped out into the wind and rain. At least it was on our backs.

The first three miles or so were on a very wet path that crossed endless streams and marshes. But all things come to an end and we eventually pulled up to the bealach and on to firmer ground. Round a

corner the view opened up and what a view it turned out to be. Below us was a sunlit glen descending to Loch a' Bhealaich and Loch Choire. Our path was beautifully engineered across the face of the mountain, dropping at a welcome and steady gradient. This led us out into the glen and a long tramp on good tracks, some quite sandy, along the lochsides. As we approached Loch Choire House we saw smoke rising out of the trees and I recalled that a bothy had recently burnt down. When we arrived, we found the smoke to be coming from the demolition team that was tidying up the ruins. No more overnight bivvying here for a while!

Rather than follow the wide vehicle track for its full length, we took instead an alternative ‘short cut’, a path marked on the map crossing some higher ground. It was hardly shorter in time as there were some awkward wet sections and a couple of climbs over gates in the very high deer fences. So it was a relief to get back onto the wide estate road. The surface was smooth and pleasant to walk on. At Gearnsary we sheltered behind a wall and had a quick bite to eat, finishing off butties we had bought two days previously in Lairg.

The final push was in improving weather. The sun shone during the afternoon and if it had not been for the biting wind, we might have mistaken it for the promised arrival of better weather. Eventually Badanloch Lodge came into view at the end of the eponymous loch. As we crossed the wall of the dam, the bitingly cold wind threatened my sun hat which I had to remove or risk losing it. Lapwings started to mob us: we must have been traversing their nesting ground. A large herd of red deer crossed our path and then some geese (they must have been greylags but I was most surprised to see these here in June) and oyster catchers. There was more wildlife here than we had seen on the entire trip so far. It seemed a long four miles to Kinbrace but we had time to spare and slowed to a more comfortable pace. And the sun was shining on us now as we dropped down to a river bridge and up into the delightfully situated village of Kinbrace. This looked an absolute picture in the sunshine. I was very glad to have made it. The cold weather and the wind had made this a challenging few days.

Crask dep. 08.35, Kinbrace arr. 16.45, GPS 25.30 miles in 7hrs 52m 25s walking time plus a 20 minute lunch stop.

 

Aftermath

We arrived at Kinbrace Station with enough time to strip off our walking gear and change into our travelling clothes. The train was 10 minutes late and remained so all the way to Inverness. This left us without much time to make the connection and to settle onto the Caledonian Sleeper before it pulled out and headed south into the night. The bottles of Fyne went down well although they were rather expensive. Sampled the Highland at 4.8% and the Avalanche at 4.2%. These went well with a macaroni cheese which got us through the night. We arrived in Crewe before the buffet bars were open but we did get a bacon bap before leaving the station to catch the first bus. The sun was shining as I walked home from the bus stop. It all looked so verdant and felt so warm and fertile. It was hard to believe that 24 hours earlier we had been struggling across the Flow Country in such awful conditions. Another world. The total mileage for the trip was another 98 miles towards John O’Groats. Next year we shall be there (DV).

Central Highlands

Corrour Station - Strathpeffer, 1^st–5^th May 2014

Introduction

Our end-to-end project is now entering the latter stages. Last year we terminated our walk in awful weather on Rannoch Moor, not being able to resist the temptation of jumping on a train home when we got to Corrour Station. To resume our northerly journey, we had to retrace our train journey back onto the moor. A train from Manchester dropped us into the streets of Glasgow in weather that was reminiscent of last year. We had to don all our wet weather gear for the walk to Queens Street. Here the Fort William section of the train was struggling to start its engines so we all had to crowd into two carriages and arrived late in Crianlarich where the Oban bound passengers left us. We were further delayed at Bridge of Orchy where we were held until the sleeper went passed. I was worried about the venison burger I had ordered at Corrour but the guard rang ahead and warned them we would be late. It was 10pm when we pulled into the dark wet station at the top of the world. My meal was ready and I washed it down with lovely beer from the Cairngorm brewery.

 

Thursday 1^st May 2014     Corrour – Kinloch Laggan

Mayday on Rannoch Moor

It was not very tempting to venture out onto the moor. The clag was down on the hills, it was very cold and windy and the air was full of wetness without it actually raining. Donning all our winter gear, we set out soon after 9am along the path upon which we finished a year before. This time however we kept along the southern shoreline of Loch Ossian and made fast progress to the lodge, an amazing building, at the eastern end of the lake. Here we met a construction team who were building a new hydro-electric scheme. The access road had completely obliterated the footpath up the glen. A supervisor gave us advice on how to wait for the diggers to see us and lower their buckets before proceeding through. One of the drivers got down from his cabin and directed us to the best route back to the path.  We then had a pleasant hour weaving our way along the burn before, on reaching the upper reaches, crossing and shinning up the steep southern slopes. The path that we were aiming for was an extraordinary construction, a beautifully drained trod on a raised dyke. We now made fast progress up to Bealach Dubh, our high point of the day. The views backward and forward were breath-taking.

 

Soon we were plunging down, checked briefly by a snowfield that lay across the path at an exposed point. After edging gingerly across we soon resumed our descent and stopped for a bite to eat lunch below the dramatic ridges of Ben Alder, now beginning to appear from the clouds. We then flew down to the valley floor and Culna Bothy. A notice stopped Mike from entering, ‘beware asbestos’. On we walked passed Loch Pattack and along a very wet track beside the river. Then the route became drier and grassier, the temperature rose and we were able to take off some of our winter gear. At last we came to a fork to the left to reach Kinloch Laggan some two miles ahead. We dropped through a wood to the lochside and onto a tarmac road from the Ardverikie Estate. It came as a relief to find that there was a mobile signal and I was able to ring our B&B and beg a pick-up. We emerged over a narrow bridge near the gate and lodge of the estate and onto the main road. In a few minutes our lift arrived and we were wheeling along towards our night’s accommodation. The Rumblie is a lovely bungalow in the village of Laggan. It has a small bar and a bistro. The food is served in a glass conservatory where one can eat whilst watching the birds outside on the bird feeders.

Corrour Station dep. 09.09, Kinloch Laggan arr. 17.05 with a lunch stop 12.57-13.12 just beyond the Bealach Dubh.  GPS 23.86 miles in 7hr 40m 26s + 15 min lunch stop.

 

We stayed at the Rumblie, Gregask Avenue, Laggan which is at least 5 miles off route. I had beef lasagne from the bistro menu and stick toffee pudding. The bottled beers were again from the wonderful Cairngorm Brewery, trying Sheepshaggers Gold (4.5%) and Caillie (3.8%).

  

Friday 2^nd May 2014       Kinloch Laggan – Fort Augustus
Corrieyairack and Pylons

The weather forecast was marvellous, sunshine and negligible wind even on the summits. Simon took us back in the Prius to where he had met us the previous evening and we set off round the lochside looking at the most perfect setting of snow-covered hills reflected in the still waters. Turning right up a track, we found ourselves on a construction road for the new electricity line. This eventually turned off and we proceeded to Sherramore on the original grassy surface. Here we turned onto General Wade’s Military Road which we followed passed Garva Bridge, Melgrave and up over the Corrieyairack Pass. We paused for a bite to eat before attempting the final zig-zags. Views were good but spoilt by the new line of pylons, the construction vehicles and access track. From the top, the military road kept to itself and provided a long and pleasant descent passed a house called Blackburn and down to a stream at the foot of the pass.

Here I took a questionable route choice, following the steam to the Culachy Falls. The path became increasingly overgrown and the falls were hidden behind the thick vegetation so we ended up on a narrow but signposted trod that brought us through a wood near Culachy House. The falls were obviously not a popular visitor attraction. We entered Fort Augustus via the burial ground, old and new, and then a mile along the main road. Guessing where the old railway may have come out, it was not difficult to identify Station Road. A house at the top of the hill bore the RBS Bank logo. Surely this could not be our B&B, but it was. Bank House used to be the bank manager’s house but has been sold off separately and now shares the building with the bank. Our host recommended a pub facing the canal and backed up her recommendation by appearing there herself for a meal.

Kinloch Laggan dep. 09.15, Fort Augustus arr. 17.30, GPS 24.18 miles in 7hrs 51m 19s plus a 20 minute lunch stop.

We stayed at Bank House, Station Road, Fort Augustus. We ate at the Lock Inn: chicken curry followed by Loch Ness muddies (chocolate torte). The beer was Batemans Yellabelly Gold (3.9%).

 

Saturday 3^rd May 2014    Fort Augustus – Tomich

The Balfour Beatty Way

As we emerged on another sunny morning, cool and perfect for walking, mountain bikes were arriving along the canal towpath and turning into the town. We asked marshals what was happening and were told of an event where competitors ride from Fort William, leave their bikes at Fort Augustus and then run/walk through the night along the Great Glen Way to Inverness. I was not tempted to join in. Instead I popped in a butchers to buy a pie for lunch and then we walked through the village and turned left towards Jenkins Park. Here we found a signpost pointing up the hill and indicating the start of the old military route.

We zig-zagged up on a delightful woodland path which, in the morning sun, could have been an Alpine route. If only the quality of the walking had lasted. Once we had levelled out we joined a forestry track which ran into a construction road for the new power lines. Now we were surrounded by health & safety notices which included demarcated mobile phone zones. So now we had a choice, we could try to follow the remnants of the old path or cut straight down the hillside into Glen Moriston using the Balfour Beatty Way. Not being luddites, we took the easy option and were soon on the road to Torgoyle Bridge and beyond.

Crossing the river, it was only a few yards before we found the construction road blazing its way up the opposite hillside. Just follow the pylons. In fast warming conditions we sweated and toiled up the stony and gritty track, ticking off the pylons one by one on our way to a 2000ft highpoint. There was the odd sign of the old route but it had mostly disappeared under the works access road. One mountain biker seemed pleased with the easy access to this remote area and we made steady progress towards our next destination.

On our way down we took a diversion to see the Plodda Falls and it was well worth the effort and the extra mile. The falls were spectacular, viewed either from above from a high viewing platform or from below in the deep wooded gorge. After an exciting half hour or so we then headed down the river, passing the ruins on Guisachan, the old home of Lord Tweedmouth, the man who moved Tomich to its present site and built the modern cottages which are now a conservation village with a huge monument to Lord Tweedmouth at its entrance.  

Fort Augustus dep. 09.15, Tomich arr. 16.45, GPS 20.35 in 7hr 09m 24s plus a 21 min halt to eat my pie. 

We stayed in Tomich Hotel, ate steak & ale pie & chips, followed by bread & putter pudding & custard (Mike had apoplexy). The real ale was An Teallach Ale (4.2%) from An Teallach Brewery, Dundonell.

Sunday 4^th May 2014     Tomich – Struy

Rest Day

There was no hurry this morning. The logistics of our walk were such that today we only had to shift 11 miles down the glen so as to be in the optimum position for the final day’s schedule. A leisurely breakfast and a chat with the owner had the cleaners waiting for our room. The sunny weather had departed and there was rain in the air as we headed north out of the village and up the road towards Cannich. We did not go through Cannich though, staying on the quieter lane on the east of the river. This continued all the way up to Struy and in that time we saw the very occasional vehicle and a group of horse riders. The only person we spoke to was a lady with a camera waiting for some photographs of birds round her feeders.

It threatened to rain several times and there was evidence of some puddles on the roads but it did not rain on us. Our luck with the weather was still holding. After a pleasant 3 hours or so through woodland of downy birch, we came to the bridge over the River Glass and into Struy. This seemed to consist of a pub and church and little else. Our accommodation for the night lay another half mile up the road at the Cnoc Hotel, which was situated above and back from the road in a rather bare garden

 

But they were most welcoming. Our rooms were not ready, not surprisingly as it was only lunchtime but we were led into the residents lounge, the fire was lit and we sat in luxury, still in our shorts, whilst we were served with coffee and scones. Mike had invited an old friend, a climbing partner from university days who now lives nearby with his wife, to join us for a drink. Jeff and Margaret arrived quite soon and we had a drink and a brief chat before they set off for a cycle. We meantime had showers and changed into more suitable clothes so that by the time Jeff and Margaret returned we were more appropriately attired for the residents lounge. The beers were served and the reminiscences began and Mike and Jeff were transported back to epic climbs in Glencoe. The drinks kept coming and the hours slipped away and then it was too late for our guests to go home to eat so food was ordered and we all ate together at the hotel and of course drank more beer and had more chat. So it was a lovely relaxing time with great company, a very nice rest day.

Tomich dep. 09.44, Struy arr. 13.25, GPS 11.25 miles in 3hrs 41m 09s.

We stayed in the Cnoc Hotel. I had fish and chips washed down by bottled Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm and Red Kite Ale (4.2%) from Black Isle.

 

Monday 5^th May 2014     Struy - Strathpeffer

River Crossing at Hangman’s Cottage

The one uncertainty of this year’s walk was whether we could wade the Allt Goibhre. If this proved impassable, a five mile detour would be necessary and our arrangements for getting home put in jeopardy. So we had an early start and got a steady pace going on our climb up the Erchless Burn. The weather was as yesterday, grey and threatening, and a cold wind had arisen. So it was back to the winter gear as we topped out the climb and began the long contour to Tighachrochadair. The path was waterlogged and we were slowed by the continual need to by-pass the wettest sections.

Eventually we could see the two buildings of Tighachrochadair below us. We failed to locate the start of the path that descended to the river so we set out hopefully into the grass & heather and came across the path halfway down. Tighachrochadair is in a remote situation, a deserted farm and barn on a grassy level beside a small river. The first building we came to was an open barn containing a huge notice board displaying photographs and newspaper cuttings from visiting walking groups. Some told the story of a woman who was revisiting this abandoned farm, her former home, in her dotage.

The moment had come. Down at the riverbank, it looked quite straightforward to wade the shallow waters. I had to stop halfway whilst Mike recorded the crossing. Then Mike pulled out the walking stick that he had carried for 5 days. At its first touch of the river bottom, it broke into two pieces. The swamp that faced us on the far side caused us more problems than the river crossing but we eventually pulled onto drier steeper ground and started a wet tramp towards where the map showed there to be a path. Suddenly two figures appeared ahead of us on a slight rise. So we turned towards them and found, as we expected, that these two were on the path. The woman was from Yorkshire and was planning a walk that she was due to lead in the near future. The older gentleman was introduced as a highlander. He told us how to pronounce Tighachrochadair and that it means Hangman’s Cottage. Then we asked him how one pronounces Cnoc. It sounded like Croc. When we were told that he was 85 years old we looked around in astonishment at the miles of wet featureless hills he must have crossed to get here. The air or water or whiskey must keep you young and healthy up here.

Happy that we had a few more years walking ahead of us, we set out into the wilderness which eventually ended on some high ground with staggering views of Beauly and Cromarty Firths and the Black Isle in between. We sat for a short lunch break looking out over the coastal plain and its green field below. We had not seen such fertility for days. Then we plunged down a steepening path to a 10ft high wooden kissing gate in which I got stuck. I eventually reversed out and tried again to get through without a rucksack on my back.

At the bottom we entered onto some quiet country lanes which eventually led us onto busier ‘A’ roads at Marybank. Our original plan had been to stay off road by going up the River Orrin, viewing the Falls of Orrin and then crossing into Contin over the Achonachie Dam. But we had heard, later confirm by our friends Jeff and Margaret, that access to this dam had been blocked by the power company. So the first bridge across the River Connon was Moy Bridge towards which we now walked. This valley must flood regularly as gates are in place to close the road. But we were fine and were soon crossing the Ullapool road and heading for a footpath marked on the map to Jamestown. This was obvious at first but the final section had been blocked by a farmer and we diverted up a field and climbed a low fence onto a lane. In Jamestown we saw the sign for a pathway through a wood into Strathpeffer and the finish of this year’s section of our end-to-end journey. There was a lovely little cafe serving coffee and Guinness cake. So we let one bus pass and had a relaxing hour in the tea shop. The next bus took us back to Inverness where we had a few hours to kill before our train home. So we had a quick look round the town and then went into a pub to a meal and some celebratory ale.

Struy dep. 08.45, Strathpeffer arr. 15.15, GPS 17.61 in 6hrs 13m 42s plus 21 mins lunch stop.

I ate steak pie and chips in a riverside pub in Inverness and some delightful Pollinated Heather Honey Beer (4.5%) from Black Isle on cask.

 

We caught the sleeper from Inverness to Crewe and then took the first bus home. A great walk in a little window of dry weather. Someone is looking down on us.

Southern Highlands

Milngavie – Corrour Station
29^th April – 3^rd May 2013

Introduction

This was the 2013 edition of our annual 100 miles along our end-to-end route from Lands’ End to the North Coast of Scotland. Last year I had finished a traverse of Southern Scotland when I dropped off the Campsie Fells onto the Glengoyle Distillery. Now we were picking up that end point and continuing for another five days into the Highlands. As my daughter and family live in Scotland, I went north early to spend time with the grandchildren, waiting for Mike to arrive for our walk

 

Monday 29^th April       Milngavie – Drymen

A Day on the West Highland Way

I took my grand-daughter to school and then walked on to the station and caught a train to Glasgow Central. Mike soon joined me, having travelled up from Crewe on the Virgin Pendolino. Then it was a descent into the depths of Platform 17 for the suburban train out of town. It was a cold but beautiful spring morning as we left the Milngavie station and walked into the pedestrianised town centre, completely missing the post and sign that indicated the start of the West Highland Way (WHW). However we were soon walking north into quiet woodland beside a small stream (or do I call it a burn from now on). Within an hour we were watching an Osprey fishing in a small lochan and we seemed a million miles from civilisation. We walked for a short while with a group of Americans  
who were just setting out to walk the complete WHW. We then pushed on to the distillery where I had finished last year. Dropping my sack, I jogged the 500 yards to the point on the main road where I had actually reached last year. I then returned the same way to pick up my sack and continue up the WHW. Mike was rather critical of this, arguing that I should for completeness carry the sack everywhere, but I argued that it was me that was doing the end-to-end walk, not my sack (which is falling apart and may not last the course).

In the afternoon we were hit by a series of cold sharp showers, necessitating the donning of waterproofs. The route followed an old railway for some miles before it turned off across a river bridge where a fridge, outside a house, promised ice cream at an ‘honesty shop’. As we sat on a wall eating our choc ices, honestly paid for, a Brisbane couple walked by and we accompanied them for the final two miles along the lane into Drymen. We were later to meet Julie and Jim Woodyatt again in the pub and join them for a meal. There was a long crocodile of folk trailing into town. We had in all the years we had been doing long distance footpaths never seen such a sight. The b&b's were busy, the pubs were full and there seems an industry in driving bags up and down the route. We were the only ones carrying our kit. We were not convinced this sort of regimentation was for us. 

Milgavie dep. 11.25, Drymen arr. 15.45, GPS 13 miles in 4hr 17m 12s

We stayed in the Braeside Guest House on Main Street and ate at the Clachan Inn, the oldest inn in Scotland, lamb burgers and chips, no real puddings and little real ale. The local brew was off and after a pint of Greene King IPA, I turned to red wine. 

 

Tuesday 30^th April 2013       Drymen – Callander

Mort Safes and Cappuccino

It was a beautiful morning. There was not a cloud in the sky and the air was like cold wine. The start of the Rob Roy Way (RRW) was along four miles of road but it was a very quiet road and a relief to be on our own away from the hundreds of walkers on the WHW. We found our first RRW symbols which we followed to the point at which we turned left into the water catchment system. The initial forest road was tarmacked as it followed the line of the aqueduct which carries water from Loch Katrine to Glasgow. The aqueduct was exposed as it crossed side valleys and re-entrants and was at its most spectacular as the Corrie Aqueduct, spoilt rather by the scaffolding of the maintenance team. After this the track became stony and grassy for a while and then became wide a forestry track for the decent into Aberfoyle.  

The lane into Aberfoyle passed an old church, Kirkton Church which had had its roof removed many years ago to encourage villages to use the parish church in the centre. An interesting feature of this ruin was the two steel coffins, ‘mort-safes’, that sat either side of the entrance, designed to discourage bodysnatching. A lovely coffee shop on the main road provided cappuccinos and Victoria sponge. This refuelled us for the climb into the Montheith Hills and a lovely balcony route that gave us splendid views over the golf course and the now distant Campsie Fells. The wide forest track eventually came to an end and the route continued on a narrow and muddy path that ran through forest and meadows and a lovely section of tree-lined lochan. We pulled out onto another wide forestry track for the long descent to Callander. As we hit tarmac, we came across a council vehicle stuck in a ditch. Then we went passed a delightful old river bridge, Gartchonzie Bridge, where another council vehicle passed us obviously on its way to pull out his colleagues. 

The route took a loop around a plantation before it finally dropped into town at the local secondary school just as the students were pouring out. We followed the pupils through the sports fields and over the footbridge which took us into the main street. Calling into the visitors centre we noticed that a video show was available about Rob Roy so we quickly showered and changed at the b&b and returned to watch an interesting, but not particularly informative, reconstruction of his life. Not much is known about the man besides the fact that he kept cattle and was not averse to stealing more. 

Drymen dep. 08.45, Callander arr. 15.55, GPS 21.06 miles in 6hrs 39m 43s plus a 35 minute coffee stop. 

We stayed in the Southfork Villa Guest House in Cross Street, Callender and ate in the Waverley: steak and kidney pie and chips with apple pie and custard and two beers from the Inveralmond Brewery, Ossian (4.1%) and Lia Fail (a darker ale at 4.7%).

 

Wednesday 1^st May 2013    Callander – Killin

A Day on Old Railway Lines 

It had been raining during the night and it was still damp as we left the guest house. So with waterproofs on, we set out westwards out of town and onto an old railway line, now a cycle route. Soon it dried up and we were able to take off some layers and make good time along the side of Loch Lubhnaig. It was not flat all the way. Two sections were waterlogged so the route diverted 100ft or so up the hill to a forest track. It was lovely gentle countryside to walk though, reminiscence of the English Lake District. After nine miles, the way came down to cross the river and crossed another footbridge to reach Strathyre. There is not much there so we were glad to sit outside the village shop and have coffee from a machine.  

Then there was a rather gratuitous loop up the east side of the valley, a loop into the forest to avoid walking up the main road. It made it even more gratuitous to find that the loop was officially closed for forestry activities and we walked through stacks of wood from freshly cut trees. The descent back to the road was down an enormous zigzag that seemed to take forever. Eventually though we were down at the Kingshouse, which is not called the Kingshouse and more. It is now a trendy cafe and b&b. Passing under the new road, the RRW turned along an undulating cycle path, tarmacked in its entirety, that followed the busy road. Here we met three ladies over from Amsterdam, a mother, daughter and friend who were walking the RRW because the accommodation on the WHW was fully booked. We left them as they took the diversion into Lochearnhead. We climbed to a stunning picnic and viewpoint overlooking the loch and sat in the sun and ate our sandwiches. 

It was time for sun-cream as we set off up Glen Ogle on an old railway line giving fabulous views of the valley below. At the bealach, the road had climbed up to railway level. We then crossed the road and went off passed the memorial to the two pilots of a crashed Tornedo. The way through the woods was again closed and a diversion took us on a high level loop round into Killin. We came out into the village right opposite the Falls of Dochart, a marvellous and dramatic end to the day. 

Callander dep. 08.55, Killin arr. 16.45, GPS 23.09 in 6hr 48m 39s plus a 30 min coffee stop and a 20 min picnic. 

We stayed in Breadalbane House an ate at the Falls of Dochart. The food, black pudding for starters and fish and chips, was very good and the real ale was superb. Strathbraan Head East (4.2%) rated in a very high score (8 out or 10) and Fyne Maverick (4.2%). 

Thursday 2^nd May 2013     Killin – Rannoch Station

Trouble with Trees 

We were down before 8am but the breakfast room was locked. We really needed an early start today as we had a very long and desolate section awaiting us. The breakfast took what seemed an age to arrive and even though we had our bags packed and waiting in the hall, it was after 8.30am when we finally got underway. A quick stop at the Co-op secured some butties for a picnic lunch and then it was off up the road, first north and then west to the hydro-power station. Here we turned up a steep tarmacked track that zigzagged up to a power station compound. We failed to find the path marked on the map and spend an uncomfortable half hour contouring into the upper part of the Allt Dhuin Criosg. Eventually we came to flatter ground and a long tramp across boggy ground passed the shielings and over the Lairig Bhreislich. Our decision to descent the left bank was the correct one but it was a long and steep decent onto the easier slopes and it came as a relief to see a footbridge over the river below. We quickly dropped onto this bridge and crossed it to the road. We were soon down in Glen Lyon and, lo and behold, there in Innerwick was a tea shop. It was rather busy with walkers and cyclist but we found a table and had our tea and cake whilst talking to a couple who liked climbing and short wave radio, a strange but interesting combination. 

Then we set off on our second big climb of the day, this time with the weather closing in. The lower track up the Lairig a Mhuic was wide and well-made but came to a sudden halt and then became a sparse and slippery trod. My route guide for this section was the Scottish Hill Tracks publication. This suggested that we should scale a beallach to the west and drop onto the Rannoch Forest track at its earliest point.  Mike pointed out the advantage of continuing to the east of Meall nan Sac and contouring round to pick up the track lower down. What I did not realise was that Mike was using a 30 year old map which did not have the forest extension that was shown on mine. So we ended up with a mixture of our two ideas, not ideal, but it did avoid 500ft of climbing but entailed a long and tiresome detour along the new forest fence to get back to the forest entrance.  

It was a great relief to reach the forest track and commence the decent into Loch Rannoch. But soon some problems arose. Tree damage from a recent storm had not been cleared and we came to a huge pine, lying across the track, which could only be passed by crawling commando-style under the branches. Mike went first, and then I handed over the sacks and followed as he scrambled for his camera to record the scene. The continuation into the lower forest was surreal. The entire landscape had been clear felled, and it looked for all the world like the scenes from Hiroshima. The logs were piled up beside the track in huge (20ft high) stacks that ran for half a mile.  

As we exited the forest and crossed the river, another choice faced us. We could either turn north for the road and have a 10 mile road walk or go round to the south of Leagag and reduce the amount of tarmac. As the second option was shorter, we turned west into worsening weather and it started to rain and blow. The path round to the Allt a Mheanbh-chruidh became wet and slippery and we were glad to reach the track and get some easier walking down to Bridge of Gaur. As we turned west on to the long lonely road, the weather deteriorated further. We were 90 minutes walking the five miles to Rannoch Station, into a cold and wet gale, with only one car passing us on route. When we finally arrived, the hotel door was locked but it was soon opened to give us a warm welcome, a lovely bath and a marvellous meal. 

Killin dep. 08.37, Rannoch Station arr. 19.30, GPS 31.55 miles in 10hrs 20m 06s plus 35 minutes in the Innerwick tea shop. 

We stayed in the Moor of Rannoch Hotel, on Scott’s first day. He had bought the hotel and had moved in the previous day. He likes to stock bottles of Scottish brewed real ales and, out of his large collection, we drank Bitter and Twisted (4.2%) from Harviestoun and Sheepshaggers Gold (4.5%) from Cairngorm. We easily managed a 3 course meal as our clothes dried by an open fire. 

 

Friday 3^rd May 2013     Rannoch Station – Corrour Station

A Dreich Day on Rannoch Moor 

Listening to the rain driving against the window through the night had convinced us that it might be a good idea to abandon the last day’s walk and jump on the first train home in the morning. However the wind had dropped when we awoke so we stayed with plan A and breakfasted early, paid our bill and ventured out into the rain once again. Back down the road we went, to the track that led northwards across Rannoch Moor. The clag was hiding the high mountains and all we could see was colourless wet grassland stretching away into the mist. The path was wet, made worst in places by attempts to upgrade the route with heavy machines. The small streams of yesterday were now raging torrents and even small side streams provided interesting crossings.  

At breakfast, two ladies from our hotel had been telling us of their plans to take the early train to Corrour and walk back along the route we were taking. So it was no surprise to us when a pair of figures appeared on the track in front of us, moving slowly towards us. A quick exchange of information prepared us for the fact that the track ahead did not get any drier. We at least were now heading down out of the mist, turning left at Peter’s Stone and down towards the loch. Soon the youth hostel came into view, tucked serenely on a peninsula out into the loch. And there in the distance were the white buildings of Corrour Station. 

At the youth hostel, we joined the wide track out to the station and the rain seemed to get heavier now we were totally exposed to the huge expanses of the Moor. A Czech car was parked up at the station. Did this belong to the new owners of the restaurant? The cafe was busy with walkers all waiting for the lunchtime train and we had to slip over the line onto the platform to find a quiet shelter to change out of our wet gear. I only just managed to attain a modicum of decency before the restaurant emptied and they all came over to join us. But I was in dry clothes and feeling a bit warmer when the train pulled in and we were on our way south. It took at least an hour and several hot drinks before I felt fully comfortable by which time the train was running down passed Bridge of Orchy to Crianlarich, surely one of the most spectacular sections of railway line in the country. What a pity the mist and the water running down the windows made it hard to appreciate the scenery. 

It was 3 hours back to Glasgow then a short walk to Central Station and the train to Ayr. Rachel picked us up from the station, took us home, fed us royally (bread and butter pudding) and we slept long and well ready for the drive home.   

Rannoch Station dep. 08.35, Corrour Station arr. 12.05, GPS 11.34 in 3hrs 29m 42s