Southern Upland Way (Part 3) & Berwickshire Coast Path

Galashiels – Berwick-upon-Tweed,   9^th – 13^th May 2022

Introduction

 

At last, the big moment: the opportunity to complete my last national trail. I had hope to finish the nineteen LDWA-designated trails by last year but everything was put back because of the pandemic and its restrictions on travel and accommodation. Last year Mike & I finished our second section of the Southern Upland Way (SUW) on the banks of the River Tweed opposite Abbotsford House near Galashiels. To complete the trail, we needed to return to Tweedbank and walk to the North Sea coast, a three-day trip. So we had the opportunity, in our week-long expedition, to wander down the 30-mile Berwickshire Coast path, one of Scotland’s Great Trails that links in with the SUW at its trailhead in Cockburnspath.

 

All we had to do was get back to Galashiels, in principle a straightforward affair of taking a train to Carlisle and jumping on a bus. But it did not work out to be that simple. Our various train connections worked well but we just missed the bus in Carlisle and had to wait for two hours for the next. I had not twigged that, since the pandemic, the hourly bus service had been reduced. Then a set of road works delayed us by another half hour. Sheep on the road and Hawick diversions added to the nightmare so we final dismounted at Kingsknowle roundabout at 3pm, some 2½ hours behind schedule, still with 13 miles to walk to our overnight accommodation.

 

 

Monday 9^th May 2022                       Galashiels – Lauder

Crossing the Tweed

 

From the bus stop, we walked back along the A7 and down to the river passed a couple who were grooming a huge black dog in their garden. We quickly reached the car park where we had abandoned our trip last year and at last were on our way. Down the road and over a footbridge alongside the railway, the route was well waymarked passed Tweedbank railway station and along the river to Gattonside suspension footbridge . After crossing the Tweed, the route ran westward along the north bank until we reached a road. A took us uphill on what appeared to be an old drovers’ route heading northwards for more than six miles. In places it was stony, sometimes tarmacked and some sections crossed grassy fields but its line was straight and true.

A light shower of rain came through. It was getting late and I was increasingly concerned that we would not get to the pub before they finished cooking. I rang our b&b and asked if they could contact the pub and tell them we might be late. It was nearly 7.30pn, the time the kitchen was due to close, when we pulled over a grassy ridge and saw the village of Lauder below. Running down the finally grassy slopes, we decided to forego a check-in at the b&b and go straight to the pub. Apologising for our late arrival, we were told that they were so busy and short of kitchen staff that we would have to wait 15 minutes before ordering. So we had plenty of time to quench our thirst whilst studying the menu.

 

 Kingsknowle, Galashiels dep. 15.05, Lauder arr. 19.35

GPS 13.39 miles in 4hrs 28mins 06secs walking time, plus a 10-minute stop.

We went straight to the Black Bull and downed a couple of pints of Black Sheep Best Bitter (3.8%) from the Masham brewery. Chicken Balmoral was on the specials board. This came with haggis and mash with whisky sauce. We finally checked into our b&b, Lornebank Homestay, at 9.30pm. It was far too late to have a shower and I went straight to bed.

 

 

Tuesday 10^th May 2022                Lauder – Ellemford

The Operatic Hills

 

Before setting off, we went up to the general store and bought some sandwiches and cakes for our lunch. Then we picked up from where last night’s finish and set out on a bright morning towards the Lammermoor Hills. Pertinent since the opera Lucia di Lammermoor is being streamed from the Met in two-week’s time. Crossing the cattle-filled fields, Thirlestane Castle loomed austerely over us. A friendly farmer told us a story about how one of the pubs in town was called the Dipper by the locals. Allegedly the beer used to taste like sheep dip. Up on the hills w found much forestry damage. Storm Arwen last November caused much havoc in the area. On Scoured Rig an entire strip of pine plantation had blown down across the SUW path. A deviation across a field took us round and then through the devastation and down to the farm at Braidshawrig.

 

As we climbed towards the day’s high point, a sharp shower came through, blown on a cold north-westerly wind. By the time we crested Twin Law the sun was out but it was far too exposed to stop to eat our butties. So we strode out downhill towards Watch Water reservoir. Eventually we found a sheltered spot for our lunch stop near Scarlaw in an undamaged woodland of deciduous trees. Our native trees seemed to have avoided the storm damage. As we circumnavigated the reservoir, the fields leading down to the water were full of bird-life, in particular families of Greylags and their goslings. Amongst all this activity stood one solitary Barnacle Goose looking lonely and lost.

 

A road section took us along to the hamlet of Longformacus where we stood for a few minutes watching a young shepherdess training her sheep dog. As we climbed over our final moorland section of the day, the rain and wind came in again . At least it was at our backs and blowing us towards our haven for the night. A steep grassy descent brought us to a road and the end of today’s stage. But we still had over 1½ miles of tarmac to reach our accommodation. It was a glorious moment when we finally looked down onto the house at Green Hope in its idyllic forest and valley setting.

 

Lauder dep. 09.03,  Ellemford arr. 17.15

GPS 21.11 miles in 7hrs 57mins 17secs walking plus 15 mins lunch break near Scarlaw.

We stayed at Green Hope, a lovely house in an idyllic settling a mile from Ellemford Bridge. Alison and Bill looked after us like royalty and catered for all our logistical needs for the next two days.

 

 

Wednesday 11^th May 2022               Ellemford – Cockburnspath

And What Did We See, We Saw the Sea valley

 

After a leisurely breakfast with much chat, there was always so much to talk about with Alison and Bill, we set off up the valley to retrace last night’s diversion from the SUW. Today, we travelled light because Alison was coming out to collect us and bring us back for a second night in paradise. The trail started with a steep climb along the edge of a wood, over a grassy field where I nearly stepped on a hare and across a deep defile to reach a woodland track that took us all the way to Abbey St Bathans. Here we crossed a footbridge over Whiteadder Water and turned to follow its north bank until the route turned north again and started to go uphill. Gaining higher ground we passed a magnificent cairn with a weathervane on top, which commemorated a now non-existent airfield. By-passing another storm-devastated plantation, we came out at a farm specialising in quad bike activities. Then over more fields to Blackburn Mill Farm where the official route was diverted into the most appalling rutted field imaginable. In wet weather this would have been a nightmare. 

Soon we were out onto smoother tracks to Blackburn and along their newly tarmacked drive to the A1. After dicing with the fast-moving traffic, we entered a roadside area of scrub and emerged onto a bridge over the railway. Initially the track through Penmanshiel Wood runs parallel to the road and railway through a steep-sided valley but then begins to climb into the forest. Bill had urged us to consider a low-level short cut but I was adamant that we would take the zig-zags to the higher traverse. It was beginning to rain as we searched amongst the dark and dismal trees for a dry and flat place for lunch. Eventually we just sat down on a bank beside the track and ate our sandwiches. The rain had passed through as we descended to the Pease Bridge, a narrow viaduct over an impressive drop to the railway. Then it was down all the way to the sea, down step after step and through the verdant gorge of the Pease River. We broke out onto the road opposite the Pease Bay Leisure Park. Our next two miles were to be shared with the Coast Path. Ascending a steep road, the path turned onto the headland above Cove harbour and then turned inland just before the car park to pass back beneath the railway and the A! and into the village of Cockburnspath. 

There was a SUW notice board at the entrance to the village but we thought that the official end of the trail was further into the centre. So we passed the village cross, a memorial to Queen Margaret, and continued to the community shop near the village hall. It was only then that I was happy with another national trail completion, this my nineteen and last trail. After a cup of coffee from the shop, we returned to the cross and sat waiting for Alison and our lift back to Green Hope and another wonderful meal.

Ellemford dep. 09.10, Cockburnspath arr.15.30

GPS 15.81 miles in 5hrs 58mins 54secs walking time plus a 20mins butty break in Penmanshiel Wood.

 

Thursday 12^th May 2022                  Pease Bay – Eyemouth

Berwickshire Coast Path

 

It seemed pointless to repeat the 2-mile section of the coast path that we had walked yesterday so, when Bill offered to take us back to the start of today’s walk, we asked him to drop us in Pease Bay. At 9.45am we were off on a new trail, the Berwickshire Coast Path. The well-signed route was initially onto the cliff tops but soon retreated inland up to a high lane and farm track. We climbed even higher to a grassy plateau and then walked on a trod parallel to the lane to Dowlaw. Just before the farm, the coast path joined the road. We could not use the farm bypass due to tree wind-blow in the adjoining plantation. We apologised to the lady farmer and passed onwards down a grass track to a delightful old bridge that is now no longer in use.

 Up the other side of the burn the coastal views opened up as we crested the next grassy field. Then it was a sheer delight to stride out over sheep-grazed cliff tops with St Abbs head dominating the view ahead. One huge drop took us almost down to sea-level, crossing a damp valley full of orchids, primroses and cow-slips. Lunch break was declared at the top of the next climb before another grassy descent took us down to St Abbs Head and its dramatic lighthouse.

 

The next section of clifftop paths was not near so exciting but it led to St Abbs village and the great Old School Café. After a scrumptious slice of Eyemouth tart, we walked down to the  lovely harbour, then back onto the cliff-tops via a devious path up a grass bank and along a cottage-lined street. Eyemouth was now visible a few miles ahead but the panorama was spoilt by a huge holiday park of static caravans. Weaving round the edge of this, we eventually reached the old French fort and had a view of the beach and harbour of Eyemouth. Over the end of the beach, we continued along the promenade and round the corner into the inner harbour to find our accommodation above the Ship Bar & Restaurant.

 

Pease Bay dep. 09.45, Eyemouth arr.17.15

GPS 13.98 miles in 6hrs 35mins 39secs walking time plus 15mins butty stop above St Abb’s Head and 30mins in the Old School Café in St. Abb’s village.

 

We stayed in the Ships Quarters on the harbour in Eyemouth. We ate next door, at the Ship Restaurant, steak & ale pie, chips and stramash of vegetables, with a dessert of apple tart with vanilla tablet ice cream. Two Scottish words here that are new to me. A new beer as well:  Pagan Queen (4.1%) from Firebrick Brewery, Blaydon.

 

Friday 13^th May 2022                       Eyemouth – Berwick on Twee

Crossing the Border

 

No breakfast include, said the booking. So we were out into the town at 8am looking for an early café. There was a queue outside Loughs bakery and here we bought bacon and sausage baps which we devoured seated above the beach. Then we walked round the harbour looking at all the fishing boats and up over the golf course onto the cliff path. A roller coaster route ran round the edge of the verdant fields, some growing oil-seed rape that was not helpful to my hayfever. We emerged onto a road that took us steeply down to Burnmouth. The climb out was quite strenuous, first up some wooden steps and then zig-zagging up the grassy cliff-face and final up a steep meadow to join a track running parallel to the railway. We followed the railway for miles, on a so-called nature trail passed signs to peregrine nesting sites. A wire fence eventually blocked our progress and as we headed towards a kissing gate, we saw that it was the English border. What this tiny gate might be like in a few years’ time, I dread to think. A national crossing point and immigration control? 

Industrial units filled the land over the other side of the railway line. The character of the landscape was changing rapidly as we approached Berwick. Then the perennial golf courses and holiday parks pushed us back to the cliff edge. We paused briefly near Brotherstone’s Hole to eat our butties and then walked on and on, bypassing the town centre and across sandy beaches and dunes until, there in front of us was the sea wall. Here was the mouth of the River Tweed and the end of the Berwickshire Coast Path. Turning back along the wall and into the wind, we struggled up river to the bastioned town walls which led us round to the beautiful old Berwick Bridge, the end of our trip. We quickly retreated into a coffee shop to await our train home.

 

Eyemouth dep. 08.25, Berwick upon Tweed arr. 13.45

GPS 12.63 miles in 5hrs 03mins 10secs walking time with a 15min lunch break near Brotherstone’s Hole.

 

Conclusion

 

We started beside the Tweed and finished at its mouth, from Tweedbank to Tweedmouth in five days. We walked 80 miles and had a hell of a lot of fun. And somewhere in between, I achieved my quest of completing all nineteen of the LDWA-designated national trails. We have put ourselves in the perfect position to start the English Coast Path, itself now categorised as a national trail. The trains worked perfectly and we had the joy of standing briefly on York Station and the interest of looping round Manchester on the link between Victoria and Piccadilly Stations. Wives were awaiting us in Macclesfield and another adventure was over.

 

 

 

Southern Upland Way (Part 2)

Sanquhar – Galashiels,   10^th – 14^th June 2021

Introduction

It was a long time in the planning. The reservations for this trip had been made almost 18 months ago. In early 2020, I put together a schedule for the second part of our Scottish coast to coast adventure. In 2019, Mike and I had walked 90 miles of the Southern Upland Way (SUW), from Portpatrick to Sanquhar. A further 80 miles in 2020 would set us up nicely for a 2021 completion of this, the longest National Trail in Scotland. But man plans and God laughs. The lockdowns in 2020 postponed everything for twelve months. One hotel returned my payment, the others kept the money and changed the year of the booking.

After a two-year break, therefore, we set off for the Borders to resume our challenge in the Southern Uplands. Uncertainties with the train timetables had persuaded us to use the car for our major journey north. The train that we planned to use from Carlisle was removed from the summer schedule a month in advance. We were left with the option of an early morning home departure to catch the late morning train. Using the JustPark scheme, we dropped the car on a private driveway a mile or so from Carlisle station, leaving us time for a coffee and cake on the platform. Then we boarded the train to Sanquhar arriving just after noon. Our new schedule gave us a more leisurely afternoon for our first stage of this year’s walk.

Thursday 10^th June 2021                  Sanquhar – Wanlockhead – Leadhills

Into the Clag

 

Our train pulled into a deserted Sanquhar station at 12.15pm The clouds lay thick on the hills, almost down to ground level in this elevated spot. We walked for a mile south-east of the town to Blackaddie Bridge and the point at which we had left the official SUW route two years ago. A pleasant walk along the River Nith took us to the edge of the houses where the path took an easterly turn and our journey really began. There was a short section along the main road back towards the town centre but we quickly turned under the railway line and up Cow’s Wynd, a track that climbed steeply up the hillside into the clag. We were not to see another view for almost 24 hours. We briefly lost the path near a house called Bogg but were soon back on route continuing our climb over a high col and down to a track and a coniferous plantation. Another steep climb began the traverse of Glencaber Hill. I am sure the views must be beautiful but we saw nothing in this thick fog.

 

Descending down a long grassy track, we finally emerged from the cloud into an industrial landscape of slag heaps and ruins of quarries and mines. Only feet below cloud level, we were now in a gloomy valley with attractive cottages disappearing up the hillside and into the mist. The lane into Wanlockhead passed the walled and tree-filled graveyard and then turned onto a climbing footpath through ruins from the lead-mining age, often with interpretive boards explaining the history of the area. Pulling out into the village at the lead-mining museum, we climbed a set of steps up to the main road and the end of today’s section of the SUW. There was no suitable accommodation for us in Wanlochhead so we turned north down the road towards the next village some 1½ miles away. A signed SUW link path took us down the narrow-gauge railway to Leadhills and our hotel.

 

Sanquhar dep. 12.16, Leadhills arr. 16.55

GPS 11.25 miles in 4hrs 36mins 30secs walking time including a 10-minute stop.

We stayed at the Hopetoun Arms in Leadhills, a fabulous pub/hotel, supposedly the highest in Scotland. A chicken curry, rice & naan was washed down by a couple of bottles of Hopping Hare (4.0%) from Badger Brewery. A sticky toffee pudding & ice cream was to follow.

After the meal, Mike persuaded me to go out once more into the mirk to visit the curfew bell and weathervane in the village centre. Very little else was visible.

 

Friday 11^th June 2021                   Wanlockhead – Beattock

Storming over Lowther

 

At breakfast we got talking to a couple of cyclists, Linda & Tony from Weymouth, who were on a 500-mile journey on electric bikes. Following much of the JOGLE route, they were encouraging support for the Sustrans charity for quiet and safe cycle routes across the UK. The hotel owner was waiting to drive us back up to Wanlochhead so that we did not have to repeat last night’s 1½-mile diversion. As he dropped us back on the SUW route, a storm blew in. Having packed for a warm summer expedition, we were now wearing everything we had brought with us, covered by waterproofs over bodies and rucksacks. The climb up Lowther Hill, the highest point on the trail, was up a straight grassy track with the mast road zigzagging across us. The gale, mist and rain battered our backs. At least it was blowing us up the hill.

 

I had long been looking forward to crossing the Lowther Hills. The views must be staggering. But not today. In the driving fog, we noticed the slope had flattened out so assumed we were near the summit but we saw absolutely nothing. We must have been yards from the huge golf ball, the radar station on the summit but it was only after we were on the descent and the weather started to clear that we could look back and see the massive structure emerging from the clouds. By the time we had reached Cold Moss and were heading up Laght Hill, the last peak in this range, the sun was breaking through and we got our first views of the trip. These we enjoyed as we bounced down a glorious grassy track to the A702. With waterproofs safely stowed away, an easy level section was ahead of us, through and around plantations on a good forest track. This quickly brought us to Daer Reservoir where we crossed the huge dam with a factory below to our left and one of the largest expanses of freshwater in southern Scotland to our right. Time for lunch.

 

The afternoon walk started with a steep ascent onto another range of grassy hills, Sweetshaw Brae and Hods Hill. The route then took a gratuitous loop to the south around the edge of the forest before turning eastwards again and into the trees. Surprisingly, much of this forest had been clear-felled and it was a bleak path that followed a gas line marked by tall orange posts.  After crossing a stream in the valley bottom, near a bothy, the path up the other side was remarkably boggy, the only time we got mud on our boots in the entire trip. Back on dry ground, we walked over Craig Hill and followed the gas line down to a road. Then it was tarmac for 2½ miles to Beattock with the motorway and railway in full view. The pub was only a few yards from where we emerged on the main street and we happily made our way through drinkers sitting outside in the sunshine. It had been a very long day, a day with all four seasons.

 

Wanlochhead dep. 08.50, Beattock arr. 17.20 

GPS 20.22 miles in 8hrs 13mins 46secs walking plus 20 mins lunch break (12.55 – 13.15) at Daer Reservoir.

We stayed at the Old Stables in Beattock. Steak and black pudding pie was followed by syrup sponge & custard. We were back on bottles of Hopping Hare, the draught beer not being up to our real ale standards.

 

Saturday 12^th June 2021                   Beattock – St Mary’s Loch

I’ll take the Highroad

 

It was a grand morning. The sun was shining, a cool breeze was making it perfect for a good walk. The sun-cream was on and the sun-hat was at the ready. After a huge breakfast at the Old Stables and clutching the more than ample packed lunch, we tootled through the outskirts of Beattock to the motorway junction. Here we found a delightful wooded path beside the river which led under the motorway and onto a quiet country lane that bypassed the town of Moffat some 1½ miles to the north. We had got an early start because of the long day ahead of us and a rendezvous with a pick-up from our next hotel. All we had to do was to get there without a navigation error. Famous last words!

 

Crossing a low ridge, the route followed Moffat Water onto a forest track. We then missed the right turn up the Romans and Reivers route and continued up the wide track into the plantations. This came to end at the eastern boundary of the trees. Well and truly lost, Mike got out map and compass and took a bearing on Croft Head. Following this bearing involved hauling ourselves up steep heather slopes and burnt strips of easier ground. Amazingly we pulled over the crest of the hill to find ourselves back on route, the high-level option of the SUW. We followed a fast-moving walker onto the summit of Croft Head: this fellow was collecting Donald’s, the 2000ft summits of the Lowlands. The descent from this hill was probably the highlight of the entire trip.
 

A glorious grassy ridge led down to a beautifully engineered zigzag path down its almost vertical end. In front was a huge cleft in the opposite hillside. We by-passed this to the south, climbing a narrow trod, crossing an arched footbridge, to reach the col at Ettrick Head. Down into the forest, we followed a shady forestry track to the bothy at Over Phawhope where we stopped for our lunch break. The six miles of road that followed was not so enjoyable. Out of the wind, it was unpleasantly warm, not helped by the need to average 3 mph to make up for lost time. With much relief, we arrived at Scabcleuch and turned north up the burn. After a steep start the route quickly levelled out to pass between the hills and onto the grassy ridge of Pikestone Rig. Another steep descent to the ruins at Riskinhope Hope led to our final climb of the day to gain the wide track down to St Mary’s Loch. As we bounced down the lane to Tibbie Shiels, a red car backed up to the gate, a gentleman got out looking at his watch and announced that we were four minutes early. Not bad for such a long and exciting route and an excursion off-piste. One of those magic days in the hills.

 

Beattock dep. 08.40, Tibbie Shiels arr.17.26

GPS 20.72 in 8hrs 22mins 11secs walking time plus 20mins (13.10 – 13.30) for butty break at Over Phawhope Bothy in the Ettrick valley

We were picked up at Tibbie Shiels by Gordon, a friend of the owners of the Gordon Arms near Yarrow. He drove us to the hotel, our accommodation for the night. We ate a lovely meal of fish & chips (Eyemouth haddock) and apple crumble & custard. The beer was Born Amber from the Born in the Borders Brewery in Jedburgh. This brewery has recently changed the names of their beers to be less controversial.

 

We were introduced to Bev and Dave, a couple walking the SUW in the opposite direction. I hope we gave them good advice as to their onward journey.

 

Sunday 13^th June 2021                     St Mary’s Loch – Innerleithen

Fire, Fire: Pour on Water

 

An early start was not required today. This was to be our easy day. After two consecutive days of more than 20 miles, a shorter walk was welcome and it fitted in with the hotels ahead. Our lift back to Tibbie Shiels was fixed to depart at 9.00am and Gordon was ready to drive us on this lovely morning back along beautiful St Mary’s Loch. Back up to the gate we went, no cheating on the official route, at least not by choice. The weather was perfect, with a cool breeze and a clear sky. The three-mile stretch along the shore of the loch was a delight and it was with some sense of regret that we reached the eastern end and had to leave this idyllic setting and cross the main road.

 

We had time today to do some sightseeing. Dunhope Tower, the birthplace of one of Sir Walter Scott’s ancestors, had a metal spiral staircase so we scrambled up to the platform on the battlements and looked back over the loch. As we did so a helicopter flew overhead, dangling a bucket, It filled up with water in the loch and flew back again over us and the hills. It was to pass to and fro all day along our entire route. We could only assume that a fire somewhere, in a forest maybe, was being soused with water from St Mary’s Loch. We followed the direction of the helicopter around a grassy set of hills to reach Blackhouse, a remote farm some 2 miles off the road, where James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd and Scottish Poet, got his first job. In the plantation above the farm, we encountered a bench and an obvious lunch stop.

The afternoon session was short and sweet. Blake Muir was traversed on a pleasant grassy path and a long descent featured views over Innerleithen, our target for the day. But first we had to negotiate 2 miles of road from the church at Kirkhouse, passing the hamlet of Traquair, and along the long straight road into the town of Innerleithen and our hotel for the night. So early were we that we had a pint in the bar whilst watching the afternoon kick-off of the England match.

 

Tibbie Shiels dep. 09.16, Innerleithen arr.15.25

GPS 13.98 in 5hrs 42mins 58secs walking time plus a 20min break (12.35 -12.55) stop in the plantation above Blackhouse.

We stayed in the Traquair Arms in Innerleithen. The sea bass was superb and we finished with stick toffee pudding. The beer was Armadillo West Coast IPA (3.8%) from Tempest Brewery at Tweedbank. It was sad to learn that the Traquair Brewery is closed, probably permanently.

 

Monday 14^th June 2021                    Innerleithen – Galashiels

Two Brethren Meet Three More

 

Before breakfast I slipped out to the local bakers and had some butties made for our lunch. After another full Scottish fry-up, we set off on a cool and windy morning back along the road we had used yesterday and back to join the SUW at Traquair. A tarmac lane continued as a wide track that climbed for nearly two miles, views back to Innerleithen and Walkerburn opening out below. Minch Moor was crested although the diversion to the view point was spurned. It was getting really windy now but this was from behind and we tramped on without donning any wind-proofs. The grassy track undulated along the crest of the ridge, over Broomy Law and down to a stream crossing. Splendid views were to be had in all directions, with the Eildon Hills dominating the view ahead. This high-level traverse ended in the most dramatic way. The last top sits above the steep drop to the River Tweed and the compact summit has three very substantial pillars of stones along with a modern trig point. We had arrived at the Three Brethren.

 

We plunged down into the Tweed valley. Out of the wind the temperature rose markedly. We emerged from the woodland path onto the access road to the Yair estate. This crossed the river to reach a main road, Fairnilee Farm and the start of the last climb of the day. But before we attempted this, a picnic table tempted us to pause a while to eat out sandwiches and cake. The ascending field path was rutted and ankle-breaking, but the underfoot conditions got more pleasant on the descent into Galashiels. We had just enough time to get round the town centre by following the SUW along Barr Road and the continuing track and field path. We descended to the A7 and onward to the banks of the Tweed. After a few yards on the riverside path, it became marginal whether we could reach Tweedbank station in time to catch a train back to Galashiels. We did the sensible thing, minimising the risk of missing the Carlisle bus, and finished this year’s trip at the car park near the end of Tweed Road. 15 miles had been achieved en route and we quit whilst we were ahead.

 

Innerleithen dep. 08.47, Galashiels arr. 15.30

GPS 17.53 miles in 6hrs 23mins 33secs.

 

Conclusion

 

It was a 1½ mile walk back into the centre of Galashiels, passing the football/rugby ground and university in Netherdale. A coffee shop opposite the bus stop enabled us to sit at a pavement table having coffee and cakes whilst watching out for the X95 bus to Carlisle. The 2-hour journey passed through some delightful countryside and dropped us outside the railway station from whence we walked back to where we had parked the car five days earlier. Road closures led to an awkward diversion round the south of the city but we finally gained the M6 and the way home.

 

So we finally got to complete part 2 of the Southern Upland Way. Another 80 miles towards the North Sea, Getting round the awkward loop round Galashiels, we have set ourselves up nicely for the last 50 miles to Cockburnspath next year, giving ourselves the opportunity to throw in the Berwickshire Coast Path as an encore. Finding that the number 60 bus runs between Berwick and Galashiels makes for a perfect link between the start and finish. Let’s hope that next year’s travel issues are less restrictive.

 

 

Southern Upland Way (Part 1)

Portpatrick – Sanquhar    10^th – 14^th June 2019

Introduction

Mike and I have now been enjoying our annual springtime walk for at least 25 years. With LEJOG well and truly finished, Mike offered to accompany me on my quest to walk the national trails. The Scottish Borders have always provide us with some wonderful walking so it was time to tackle the longest and possibly most challenging of all the Scottish walks, the Southern Upland Way. Planning a five day expedition proved more problematic than I expected, with complex transport issues and restricted accommodation and eating opportunities. In the end we decided to take a car to Dumfries and abandon it for five days. This gave us the flexibility we need to get to the start and from the finish point. The availability of the b&b’s and hotels decided the dates.

Monday 10^th June 2019                    Portpatrick – Knockquhassen

Crowning a Late Start

Mike’s wife drove him over to Macclesfield so we could set off in good time for a lunchtime bus from Dumfries. We had a very bad start when, whilst searching for a space in Whitesands car park, a guy in a Chelsea tractor backed into my beloved Insignia and put his tow bar through the passenger door. I was distraught as we locked up the damaged car and waited for our bus. I had a long time to calm down, the bus to Stranraer taking over two and a half hours. We had 15 minutes to wait for the local bus to Portpatrick and, by 5pm, we were standing on the sea front, blinking at the white-walled houses around the harbour in the evening sunshine. Before we set off walking, we had a meal at the Crown Hotel, Portpatrick. No evening meal was available at our b&b so we had to stoke up whilst we could. I had cod & chips followed by apple pie & custard. The beer was exceptional, Fog Horn (4.6%) from Portpatrick Brewery. This proved the best beer of the week.

By 6.30pm we were fully refreshed so we took our start-of-walk photographs and set off up the cliff steps passed an imposing hotel. All that height was then lost as the path descended steeply down to sea-level over some awkward and slippery rocks. We missed the correct exit from the beach and found ourselves above the cliff-top path. But we traversed rough ground and were soon back on-route and heading for the lighthouse on Black Head. There were several miles of road-walking along the lighthouse access road and passed Knock & Maize. Grass in the surrounding fields was being cut in the late evening sunshine. It was a shock to hear about the appalling weather back home with torrential rain and floods in Cheshire. Eventually the route took to tracks and paths which lead out across Broad Moor. Some very boggy sections resulted in wet feet rather earlier in the walk than we expected. As we came off the moor, the b&b was immediately in front of us. In the last of the light, we stood in the beautifully-situated breakfast room and watched a barn owl coming in and out of its barn-based owl box.

Portpatrick dep. 18.32, Knockquhassen arr. 21.08

GPS 7.02 miles in 2hrs 44mins 30secs

We stayed at Knockquhassen Farm

Tuesday 11^th June 2019                Knockquhassen – New Luke

Ferreting Round a Castle

We were in no hurry today with a flattish route in prospect and early sunshine. The first three miles or so were on quiet lanes and then a short woodland path took us into a housing estate at Castle Kennedy. Butties were purchased at the service station on the A75 and then we were in the tree-lined drive leading up to Castle Kennedy Gardens. Superb views were to be had of Lochinch Castle over the White Loch. Turning into the car park, we found we could get access to the tea room without entering the gardens. A scone cream tea gave us the energy to continue on to the more hilly part of the day, but as we passed back through the car park we were distracted for a few minutes by a lady taking two ferrets, on leads, for a walk. Then we began the ascent past Chlenry up over a high moor and onto a mountain road.

Not far along the tarmac, the route turned right along a forestry track and then left beside a wall on a grassy path along the northern edge of the plantation. A cuckoo was in full voice in the nearby trees and then, joy of joys, there just ahead flew a pair of the large grey birds. At the eastern end of this section the path turned into a pine forest and dropped steeply to a railway line. Here it turned parallel to the railway track on a very indistinct trod, stepping over windblown trees as we went. Then we crossed the railway on a narrow footbridge and descended to the Water of Luce which again we crossed by footbridge. A steep bank then led up to a lane near Cruise where we stopped for a short refreshment break.

We were now faced with a decision. We could drop straight into the village of New Luce or we could take the high loop round to the far side and then cut back to the village. As time was on our side we took the longer option and got the climbing out of the way and reduce some of tomorrow’s mileage. It worked out superbly with a lovely straight grassy track across the moor to Kilhern where a left turn led down beside a small plantation and onto the lane. We were outside Rainbows End in New Luce by 5pm, the time I had arranged with our landlady. We waited at the gate as instructed so that we could meet the Great Dane before we entered the house. It was bigger than me so I was taking no chances. It sat slobbering behind me all through the meal. Mike went for a stroll through the village on this very pleasant evening. Then we rang home to hear of more rain and floods in England.

Knockquhassen dep. 09.34, New Luce arr. 17.00 

GPS 17.82 miles in 6hrs 29 mins 52 secs walking with 30 mins (12.15- 12.45) with a cappuccino and scones, jam & cream in the tea rooms at Castle Kennedy and a 15 mins break (15.15-15.30) near Cruise.

We stayed with Celia and her Great Dane at Rainbows End in New Luce. She cooked us a wonderful meal of roast pork, potatoes & red cabbage with banana loaf and crème fraiche for a dessert.

Wednesday 12^th June 2019   New Luce – Bargrennan

Tilting at Windmills

We retraced our steps the next morning and, by 9.00am, we were heading up the lane towards the wind turbines. Just beyond Balmurrie, the route deviates from the original straight line.  We were directed left up a track and then right over a trackless hillside, trying desperately to locate the SUW marker posts. In misty conditions this may be a real concern. It was difficult enough on a clear cool morning. But after a few false forages, we crested the moor and a huge wind farm and forestry plantation opened up in front of us. Initially the path through a forest was grassy and pleasant but then it turned into a stony rubble track. We could only think that the excess waste from the wind farm foundations had been spread on our path by way of disposal. Whatever, it made for very unpleasant walking. We stopped briefly at the Beehive Bothy for a few nibbles and a drink of water and then again at the Laggangarn Standing Stones for some photographs. Then it was back to more uncomfortable rubble-topped trails that contoured the hillside beneath the new generators. It was a relief to shin up through the woodland and onto the summit of Craig Airie Fell which, at just over 1000ft, gave us great views of the surrounding countryside.

Then it was down, down all the way on paths and forest track to Derry where the route became a tarmac lane which after two miles or so came out onto a road near Knowe. Here a lady called from a cottage window, asking us if we needed anything. But we declined her kind offer and pressed on over another ill-defined section of rough ground before emerging onto a lane near Glenruther Lodge. A plod up this lane took us passed a farm and onto a pathless hillside, once more following SUW posts where visible. It seemed a long way at the end of a long day across Glenvernoch Fell and down passed woodland plantations to the road at Garchew. Here a group of farmers were gathering their flocks of sheep for dipping or shearing. The last mile of the day was across featureless rough pasture following guideposts that were hard to spot. We finally dropped down to a road, busy by Galloway standards, and crossed the river bridge and slowly climbed up to the House O’Hill Hotel at Bargrennan. The room was stuffy and you could not open the windows for fear of a midge invasion. But we were made most welcome in the bar. It was still raining back home.

New Luce  dep. 08.48, Bargrennan  arr.16.40

GPS 19.34 in 7hrs 24mins 30secs walking time with a short break at the Beehive Bothy.

We stayed in the House O’Hill Hotel, Bargrennan. I ate chicken curry & rice followed by  sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. The beer was Bright Idea (3.8%) from Five Kingdoms  Brewery on the Isle of Whithorn.

Thursday 13^th June 2019                  Bargrennan – Dalry
Midges Galore

We asked for an early breakfast as it was going to be a long day. Other walkers last night had pointed out that today’s route was considerably longer than indicated in the guidebook, and that was long enough. Soon after 8.30am we were out into the midges on a warm and clammy morning, but amazingly still no rain. Returning to the river bridge, we picked up the waymarked route though woodland on a narrow path that followed the river. After almost two miles of heading south, the path turned eastwards to pick up the Water of Trool. Thence we were heading in the right direction. A long section beside the river, crossing it a one point, led on good quality paths through woodland and water meadows. As we neared the loch, we came across a cark park which explained where all the dog walkers came from. Then the path began to climb.

Up and down we went, still in woodland but totally hidden from the river and loch. Then suddenly we descended sharply and there was Loch Trool in all its glory. The path then ran on a high shelf along the south side of the loch, passing an information board describing the details of the Battle of Loch Trool. At the end of the loch, we were faced with a steep climb up to a magnificent viewpoint. We stopped for our morning break and then dropped down to the house at Glenhead. Here we became confused. The guidebook and maps showed that the SUW crosses the river and climbs pathless hillsides to gain the top of the pass. However all the way-marking indicated that we were to stay on the main track. It seemed a long haul to the top of Glenhead Burn but a fabulous view unfolded as we crest the pass. Loch Dee with its sandy beaches, gleaming in the sunshine, was a lovely sight. The wide track wound round its shore, passing at one point White Laggan Bothy lying several hundred meters back from the loch in a gap in the trees. Crossing the upper reaches of the River Dee, the track continued through clear-felled country to reach Clatteringshaws Loch where we sat on a high rock and had a bite to eat. The midges descended on us and started easting me alive. It was several weeks before my legs fully recovered. This curtailed our rest and drove us onwards into the last section of the day.

From a pickup point on a quiet lane, we found ourselves in rough country, passing along the edge of thick pine plantations and climbing up narrow rides through the trees. Emerging onto an open moor, the route was inadequately waymarked and it was more by good luck than judgement that we found ourselves still on line on the descent to the remote farm at Clenrie. Then it was farm tracks and tarmac for more than 3 miles before we came to the sting in the tail. The route left the road along a walled path beside a stream, crossed the stream over a wooden footbridge, and then proceeded through flooded water meadows where we might as well have been in the stream. With wet feet, we were faced with a steep scramble up Waterside Hill from the summit of which our first view of Dalry was to be had. It was a magnificent grassy descent in the sunshine and then a delightful riverside path into town with the church high up on the far bank. A sturdy modern footbridge took us across the Water of Ken and into town. Our pub was almost the first building we came to. When we rang home, our folks, battling storms and torrential rain, could not believe our luck with the weather.

Bargrennan dep. 08.35, Dalry arr. 19.01

GPS 26.29 miles in 10hrs 04mins 43secs walking time with 10min breaks at Glenhead and Clatteringshaws. Note that the day’s mileage is two miles further than the distance given in the guidebook and websites. The official mileage must be based on the short option through Glentrool Village.

We stayed at the Clachan Inn, Dalry. I had pork belly followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. My first pint was Yellowhammer (4.0%) from Black Isle Brewery. Then it was Scaur O’ Doon (3.6%) from my old friends at Ayr Brewing Co.

Friday 14^th June 2019                       Daldry – Sanquhar

High Point of the Week

Today was to be even longer than yesterday so we breakfasted as soon as we could and got an early start, pausing only to buy a sandwich from the petrol station before heading up the main street, onward up a long track and out onto the moor. We struggled to get the right line across to Ardoch Farm but then had the plantation boundary to guide us around Ardoch Hill, where an awkward diversion through some new fences had to be negotiated. Then came another featureless section, navigating from post to post to find the correct line. The compass was consulted several times before we picked up the line of a road to our right.  This led us onto a wide track that took us to Butterhole Bridge and the junction with the path from the youth hostel.

It was another lovely morning with just the odd dark cloud carrying a threat of rain. As we crested Culmark Hill, views to the north and west opened up revealing a range of hills the existence of which we had been entirely unaware. It was more like orienteering than long distance walking but we eventually spotted Culmark Farm below us and navigation got more straight-forward. The road at Stroanpatrick is another of the pickup points should a shorter day be required. But we were going the whole way so another moorland section had to be tackled. The correct line became clearer as the forest came over the horizon. An uphill plod threaded its way into a steadily narrowing gap between the trees. On a forest track a white truck was parked up. We were soon to find out why. Our first break of the day came on the summit of Manquhill Hill and whilst we ate our butties, a group of Duke of Edinburgh students from Ayr filed passed. The white van was, it seems the vehicle of a support teacher. As we moved down from our lunch spot, two more groups came by, both from the same school. Then we were on the grassy depression below the big climb of the day.

The slog up Benbrack was accompanied by some drizzle blowing in on the wind: but only for a few minutes. Photographs were taken of the stone arch and its companion on the next hill. Then a glorious high level ridge walk led to Black Hill and beyond into the pine forest. A strange loop to the memorial stone at Allan’s Cairn, took in a narrow forest trod and some tricky underfoot conditions. Then it was down steeply onto a wide and dusty forestry road and the best of the section was behind us. Just beyond the bothy at Polskeoch, the tarmac was reached and another halt was called. We needed to find some strength from somewhere to tackle the denouement of our week. So it was back to one more section of careful navigation and pole-spotting. This gradually took us up across the grain of the hillside until a gate in a new deer fence led over Cloud Hill where the most glorious view waited for us. There, some four miles ahead, glittering in the evening sunshine, lay our final destination, the lovely town of Sanquhar. The descent seemed to go on for ever, with our target seemly getting no nearer. But the valley was eventually reached and the rivers crossed. At the point where the SUW turned off for a loop round the town, we abandoned the official route until next year. We walked slowly up the road and headed straight for the station. Thus finished two of the longest walking days for many a year.  

Dalry dep. 08.27, Sanquhar Station arr. 20.00

GPS 26.69 miles in 11hrs 01mins 35secs walking time with 15min breaks at Manquhill Hill and at Dalgonar near Polskeoch.

Conclusion

The train arrived after half an hour and half an hour after that, we were having a cup of coffee in Dumfries. Then we set off in search of the river and our car and changed out of our dusty clothes. The drive home was eventless with a short stop at Tebay Services. By 1am, Mike was safely home and I was parking up in Macclesfield soon afterwards. I was too sweaty and dirty to climb into bed without a wash so I chanced waking up the house by turning on the shower at 2am. It had been a very long day.

We had walked 97 miles in what was basically 4 very long days and an evening. It proved a very tough challenge and we are hoping that we have broken the back of this trail. Next year’s plan of continuing onwards to Melrose or Lauder should not be quite so taxing.


 

South of Scotland Way: the Missing Link

Galashiels –Milngavie, 6 – 10^th June 2017

Introduction

Almost 20 years ago Mike and I had set out from Minehead with a plan to walk round Land’s End on the South West Coast Path. In 5-day annual jaunts of 100 miles a time, we completed our objective and then continued northwards using long distance footpaths to John O’Groats. Via the Macmillan, Mid-shires, Pennine and St Cuthbert Ways, we got to Galashiels. Mike then missed a year through illness before he re-joined me at Milngavie the following year to use parts of the West Highland and Rob Roy Ways and the old drove and military roads across the Highlands all the way to the north coast. So Mike needed to complete the missing link. I accompanied him on the condition that we chose a different route across the South of Scotland to the one I had walked in 2012.

So Jill took us, her annual pilgrimage, down to the station for our train to Edinburgh where we used the newly reopened Waverley line to Galashiels. Here we stayed at Craigielea B&B on Lawyers Brae and ate at the Salmon Inn, sausage & mash followed by sticky toffee pudding. We found a lovely real ale, Summer Buzz (3.8%) from Box Steam Brewery in Wiltshire.

Tuesday 6^th June 2017          Galashiels – Peebles

Southern Upland Way and Cross Borders Drove Road

The forecast was dismal so we were fully togged up as we, just before 9am, left our digs and weaved our way up the hill onto the Southern Upland Way which skirts round the south of the town. Little did I know that I would be carrying an open umbrella for every minute of the day, except where the wind threatened to demolish it. The weather got progressively worse as we crossed over a low ridge to the Tweed Valley and then up the big climb from Yair to the Three Brethren. Here we donned full winter gear. So much for waiting for summer. We walked into a stiff cold wind along the high and exposed ridge over to Trachair by which time I was soaked, battered and rather dispirited.

A mile of sheltered road gave us a brief respite for the weather but we were soon embarking on a rough climb following the line of the Cross Borders Drove Road. I needed a sugar-fix to get me up and over the col which was a long traverse into what was now a raging storm. This led us onto a long narrow ridge that pointed us down to Peebles. On a better day this would be a highlight in anyone’s walking calendar but today it was a survival mission. Slowly, slowly we dropped into town and then onwards through endless suburbs to the bridge over the Tweed. At our b&b our landlady stood ready to collect our soaking clothes and hang them on her kitchen rack. She said later that she had never experienced clothes so wet as mine. We felt warmed and stronger after a shower and cup of tea but the rain was not relenting outside and we walked to the pub in sandals and bare feet so as to prevent our spare clothes from getting wet as well. A month’s rainfall fell that day in the Borders.

Galashiels dep. 08.57, Peebles arr. 17.01

GPS 22.80 miles in 8hrs 4mins 26secs: the conditions were too bad for stopping.

We stayed at Lindores Guest House in Old Town, Peebles. The Crown on High Street provided a good meal of chicken stuffed with haggis and I topped up with sticky toffee pudding again. The beer was Belhaven Bitter.

Wednesday 7^th June 2017                 Peebles - Biggar

The John Buchan Way

It was a much better day, sunny and dry with a biting wind that dried the sodden countryside. We got a leisurely start as it promised to be an easier day. We planned to follow the John Buchan Way for its entire length to Broughton. We readily found the correct way out of Peebles and had just come out of a wooded area and were starting to climb through open fields when we had the most amazing of coincidences A lone figure, repairing a wall, was Roger, an old friend and running mate who had left my home town maybe 15 years ago. I had never seen him since nor had any idea where he had resettled. What are the chances, throughout the entire Scottish Borders of me bumping in to him? Although I suppose that if he is to stand all day on a long distance footpath, then it would be inevitable.

The official path contoured below Cademuir Hill but the route over the top looked very tempting. A gale threatened to blow us over the steep edge as we traversed the hill to its westernmost point where we descended steeply back onto the marked trail. A second climb took us over another ridge and down to Stobo, a quiet little hamlet with a lovely church. A delightful wooded valley alongside Easton Burn took us to the foot of the last climb and here we sat on a bench in front of a ruined farmhouse to have a quick sandwich. Then we ascended into a fabulous group of hills and a series of tracks and paths that led us through some magnificent country. The gusting wind made it very exciting as we gained the final col and turned southwards down Hollows Burn to Broughton. A man walking his dog in the lower reaches of the valley was the only person we saw on the entire crossing.

We turned onto the main road through Broughton and, joy of joys, there was a tea shop. Coffee and cakes were quickly demolished and we received the welcome news that we did not have to walk down the road into Biggar. The old railway line was now an established footpath. All we had to do was to find Broughton Brewery and the route was signed. I have an instinct for this sort of thing so we were soon motoring at nearly four miles an hour on a pleasant but flat route across pretty countryside. In no time at all, it seemed, we were turning across the golf course and into town passed the school. This route came out right opposite our hotel and a great day’s walking was complete.

Peebles dep. 09.13, Biggar arr. 16.57  

GPS 19.27 miles in 6hrs 53mins 13secs walking time plus a 20 minute break near Stobo and a 20 minute café stop in Laurel Bank Tea Shop in Broughton.

We stayed at the Elphinstone Hotel in Biggar where I devoured pork & black pudding stack and an apple crumble sundae. The ale was Jaguar (4.5%) from the Kelburn Brewery in Barrhead, one of my all-time favourites.

Thursday 8^th June 2017        Biggar – New Lanark

Election Day Special

The weather forecast was not good, but if we were to have a chance of climbing Tinto, we would have to go early to avoid the worst of the rain. We had set our hearts on traversing this lovely mountain as a way of minimising the road walking on this section. But the moment we stepped outside the hotel, at just before 8.30am, the drizzle started and by the time we had walked the length of Lindsaylands Road, the clag was down on the hills and the rain was getting heavier. The prospect of walking down the A72 to Symington, with little likelihood of gaining the top of Tinto, was rather depressing so we change our minds and our route.

We abandoned our plans for the off-road traverse of the mountain and instead we took the Sustrans-signed lanes along the river to Thankerton. Here we crossed the Clyde and the railway line before turning right up Perryflats Road keeping parallel to the main road. After a couple of miles, as we contoured below Chester Hill, we turned sharp left and headed down a track towards Warrenhill. A mirage appeared out of the rain. There, on a wall across the road, were painted the words ‘Farm Shop & Tearoom’. Hardly believing my eyes, we followed the signs round the back of the farm to a small café and bistro. Leaving our umbrellas outside, we entered the tiny café and stripped off our sodden waterproofs. The owner did not seem to mind the puddles on the floor. He gave us an orienteering map of the Carmichael Estate and indicated the off road options ahead.

So we followed tracks and traffic-free lanes for the next two miles passing an old ruin of a castle which evidently fell prey to Oliver Cromwell. We emerged from the estate into the village of Carmichael. Then onwards through quiet lanes to the A70 and thence to the bridge across Douglas Water at Sandilands. We had spotted from the map the opportunity of accessing Bonnington Linn from Kirkfieldbank Road but were not sure whether it would go. Heading down to the river from the road corner, we were at first dismayed at seeing a high metal security gate across the track. We were relieved to see that there was a pedestrian gate to one side and we were soon crossing the weir above the Falls of Clyde. The two miles down the path beside the fall were so spectacular that we could not drag ourselves away from the viewing platforms. But it was still raining as we came round the final bend into the impressive complex of New Lanark and its mills and old houses. One of these mills was a very smart hotel and it was here that we spent the night, election night.

Biggar dep. 08.25, New Lanark arr. 15.00

GPS 16.08 miles in 5hrs 49mins 43secs walking time plus a 20min stop at Carmichael’s Tearoom near Thankerton.

The New Lanark Mill Hotel was a magnificent building in a magnificent setting, a World Heritage Site. I had fish and chips followed by warm carrot and orange cake, all slightly disappointing. The only acceptable beer was Caledonian 80/- adding to my disappointment.

Friday 9^th June 2017          New Lanark – Uddingston

Motorway Chaos on the Clyde Walkway

My disappointment with the hotel continued in the morning when we were charged for breakfast even though I had a booking that included breakfast in the advanced rate. Getting a refund took 30 precious minutes that would come home to bite us later. Our departure was further delayed by not finding any signage for the Clyde Walkway within the New Lanark village. Eventually we found a high level exit which took us on our way down the gorge passed more waterfalls and rapids. The best of these falls came after the village of Kirkfieldbank, the Stonebyres Falls. With the high volume of water thundering over through the cataract, it was the most impressive river setting I have experienced in the British Isles. The only problem was that it remained difficult to see. The path was thickly tree-lined and there were no viewing opportunities. This probably explains why it seemed relatively unvisited compared with the more touristy Falls of Clyde up-stream.  

By the time the river reached Crossford, it was out of the narrows and once more flowing gently between water meadows. The route climbed steeply over a last ridge whilst the river went round a long loop. Then we descended into the central belt of Scotland with its towns, roads and industry. The background hum from the M74 was ever present. The high rise blocks of Wishaw and Motherwell dominated the view to the right. But the return to civilisation had one advantage. As we ventured into Strathclyde Country Park we found a tearoom in the Water Centre. So rather late in the day we had our first break, not knowing the chaos and problems ahead.

The last phase of the day started quietly enough with a pleasant walk on roads and grassland beside the loch. But at the far end there was no indication of the Clyde Walkway. We enquired of a local the way ahead but he had no knowledge of a path. He pointed us towards the motorway complex and its adjoining hotel, mentioning a new footbridge. To a walker, the view of the motorway exit (junction 5 on the M74) was a nightmare: roundabouts and new roads with no pavements or walkways. The new footbridges were there. It was just a matter of reaching them. Mike set off to climb a newly landscaped bank of loose earth and scrambled over the metal handrails to gain the first one. This took us over to the main roundabout and into a tunnel under the motorway. Then we gained the second bridge via a long spiral which eventually led us into a network of busy dual-carriage ways and some green-man controlled crossings. We chose a dual-carriage which look to be heading in the right direction and at the end of this, we found Bothwell Bridge, our original target.

Our problems were far from over. We crossed the river, as per the map, but failed to see any exit from the cycle way that ran beside the busy road. So we ended up following the road signs for the David Livingstone Centre which took us a long way round passed Stonefield Station. It was only when we reached the river again that we saw a Clyde Walkway sign, our first for several hours. Re-crossing the Clyde on a metal footbridge, it was a relatively short walk passed Bothwell Castle and through peaceful woodland beside the river. At Uddingston High School we left the path and turned into the town and our hotel. It had been a long and frustrating day.

New Lanark dep. 09.02, Uddingston arr. 18.45

GPS 25.69 miles in 8hrs 57mins 36secs walking time plus a 20 min stop for coffee and cake in Strathclyde Water Centre.

We stayed at Redstones Hotel in Uddingston and ate in their restaurant, Il Capo. I had a marvellous beef burger and chips, washed down by Caledonian beer. The sticky toffee pudding that I had as dessert was my third of the trip. There is a definite lack of diversity in Scottish puddings.

Saturday 10^th June 2017                   Uddingston - Milngavie

Clyde and Kelvin Walkways

The hotel did not start breakfasts until 9am at weekends. This was a problem for us. A long day was on the cards and, with a train to catch, we had planned for the earliest departure of the week. The manager, with no other staff available other than the night porter, agreed to make us breakfast himself. So, at 8am, we were sitting in the dining room with our rucksacks packed beside us, eating porridge and bacon rolls. The drizzle that we faced when we stepped outside just after 8.30am was not heavy enough to trigger waterproofs. And it was quite mild and muggy as we retrace last night’s route from the riverbank.

Crossing the metal footbridge, we followed a well-signed section of the route across waste ground and woodland edges. This was not according to the map where the land that it had originally crossed was now a huge development of new houses. Our path lay down by the river on the outside of miles of security fencing. Some red deer appeared to be caught inside the fencing but had got out before we reached the spot. Two runners came towards us on a training run and recce for the 40 mile ‘ultra’ race along the entire Clyde Walkway which was now only a month away. We saw nothing at all of Cambuslang which lay away to our left and only knew it was there from the map and fingerposts. By the time we arrived at the second river crossing of the day, we were well and truly back on tarmacked cycle ways, Sustrans routes into the city.

The next 90 minutes or so took us passed Celtic’s football ground and a greyhound stadium before we burst out into the verdant parkland of Glasgow Green. Another runner stopped and set us the mental task of finding the only US state which did not contain any of the letters in George W Bush. This kept us happily employed until we came to the busy road crossing in the city centre. Before we knew it there was the Clutha, the scene of the tragic helicopter accident. Then we were passing under Central Station and out passed the SECC and science centre. As the tall ship came into view, our route turned away from the Clyde, our companion for the last 40 miles, and over the dual-carriageway and northwards towards the university, We found the River Kelvin and came to a shield on a lamppost marking the start of the Kelvin Walkway, Round the bend was the Kelvin Hall and Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery. With 14.5 miles behind us, it was time for a coffee break. An organ recital was just coming to an end as we tucked into some very welcome cakes.

As we restarted, the weather was fast improving. Kelvingrove Park was just preparing for a festival and was full of families and dog walkers. We had a slight problem finding the Kelvin Walkway from the northern end but, by staying as close to the river as the streets would allow, we came back onto the official route which was signed but confusingly and inconsistently. But the further we got out of the city, the easier it was to follow. The Kelvin valley was surprising deep and wooded, a wild strip going right into the city. Near the university science park, the way took a short cut across a large loop in the river, and we only regaining the riverbank after a mile of suburban walking. But there was no more tarmac from now on, just a narrow and slippery footpath through water meadows. The clock was ticking now. We were getting conscious of the pending train departure. There was an opportunity of a short-cut, by walking up a busy and narrow A-road. The path followed the river round a long gratuitous loop. It was not a well walked section and it involved scrambling along an overgrown riverbank, slowing our progress. I was delighted and relieved to get back to the main road and then onto a good straight track that led us straight into the town of Milngavie. As usual the signage failed us and we had to carefully navigate from the map to find the station which, after 5 very hard days, we reached with 25 minutes to spare.

The trains worked perfectly and we were soon back at Glasgow Central grabbing a bite to eat before clambering rather stiffly onto a pendolino heading south. Jill once again met is from the station and took us home for a very welcome sleep in our own beds. Oh, and the American state is Indiana.

Uddingston  dep. 08.35,  Milngavie  arr. 17.15

GPS  24.80 miles in 8hrs 7mins 41 secs walking time plus 25 minutes in Kelvingrove Museum Coffee Shop.

Aftermath

In the week we walked 109 miles in generally poor weather. The rain and low clouds had frustrated our plans to climb Tinto, one of the highest hills in the South of Scotland. So we had a day of road walking in the wet.  But we loved the John Buchan Way, a very fine route through remote hills. And the upper parts of the Clyde were spectacular. The people that we met were all very chatty, welcoming and helpful, not like the more introverted country folk of the south.  So our mission is complete. Mike and I have walked the entire length of Britain together and we are still the best of friends. Is there life after LEJOG?