The Great Glen Way

Inverness – Fort William    30^th April – 3^rd May 2019

Introduction

Before I could set out, I had a scibar to organise and oversee. I left the Park Tavern as soon as the event had finished, walked swiftly home, finished packing my rucksack and changed into my walking gear. Then Jill took me to Wilmslow Station for the last train of the day to Crewe and I sat on an almost deserted platform waiting for the Caledonian Sleeper. The train was running over an hour late and did not arrive into Crewe until after 1am. I flopped into my seat, desperate for warmth and rest. The train ran speedily through the night picking up much of its lost time on its way to Edinburgh. All was well until it left Perth and onto the single-track line to the north. Here we seemed to lose all priority and we were stacked in several loops whilst up-trains rushed by. It took us an age to trundle the last few miles into Inverness, an hour late and with many connections  missed.

However this was the end of the line for me and, as there was no food proffered me on board, I walked into town to find a good breakfast. The Rendezvous Café sufficed and I felt much more positive as I climbed up to the castle to pay my respects to Flora MacDonald and then locate the start of the Great Glen Way. I set off down to the river much later than I had originally intended.

Tuesday 30^th April 2019                   Inverness – Drumnadrochit

A Drum, a Drum

The weather was bright and sunny but a chill wind blew along the river. I crossed the footbridge and onto the path round Whin Park where I stopped briefly to take off my tracksuit bottoms. It was warm enough to walk in shorts for the next three days. The route went all the way round the end of the playing fields, passing the botanical gardens and under a busy road. Then I was on a canal tow-path for half a mile before setting out across fields towards new housing developments. They seemed to be building everywhere at this end of town. The path started to rise up towards Great Glen House which, from close up, looks an interesting modernistic design but from a distance looks a monstrosity.

I was sweating now, even in a singlet and shorts, as I climbed steeply up through woodland and out onto a forest track which contoured round the back of the ridge. Eventually I could see houses and a road below me to the left and, after another uphill loop, the path began a long gentle descent to this road. A few miles on tarmac were good for the average pace but I was glad to come to a kissing gate on the right and a sign to a café. A narrow woodland path, through lovely native trees, brought me to Abriachan Eco-camp and its outdoor café. Here I enjoyed a milky coffee and the largest piece of lemon cake I have ever faced. I sat with a young couple, he from Edinburgh and she from the Snowy Mountains near Canberra. Sandra, the eco-camp owner, took our photo together and I was later able to see this on their Facebook page. I was reluctant to leave but time was pressing and I still had seven miles to go.

I missed a left-hand turn and had to backtrack from a farmyard. But this only cost me a few minutes and I was soon striding downhill on the long descent to lake-level. It was all pretty featureless until I suddenly came out of the trees and there was Urquhart Castle on a point across an inlet in Loch Ness. I was surprised how low and close to the water it was. I had expected it to be more dominant and spectacular. The trail then came down to the main road, keeping in a field for a short while and finally taking to the pavement and a long tramp into town. As I crossed the bridge over the river, I found myself immediately in the village green and there was my b&b. Crewe station seemed a long way away and it had been a long day.

Inverness Station dep. 09.30, Inverness Castle dep. 10.30, Drumnadrochit arr. 17.45

GPS 20.76 miles in 6hrs 54mins 04secs walking time plus 45 mins in Rendezvous Café (09.45-10.30) in Inverness and 45 mins at Abriachan Eco-Camp (14.45-15.30).

I stayed at Morlea B&B, Village Green, Drumnadrochit and ate at the Fiddlers almost next door. I ate pork belly with Stornoway black pudding and a whisky sponge pudding and ice cream. A couple of pints of Kowabunga Pale Ale (4.6%) from Cromarty Brewing were quickly dispatched. I finished with a half of Darkness (4.4%) from Loch Ness Brewery.

Wednesday 1st May 2019             Drumnadrochit – Fort Augustus

I’ll Take the High Road

I visited the village shop before setting off in the morning. Then it was a very flat and urban mile along the main road passed the school and over a second river in the valley.  The route turned inland beside this river for another half-mile before rearing up in my face. Towards the top of this very steep climb I met a woman coming down toward me, obviously a fit and serious walker. Lorna Hodgkinson told me she had come all the way for Milngavie and was hoping to finish this evening in Inverness. I wished her luck and promised to add a few bob to her charity, Northwest Blood  Bikes Lancashire and Lakes.

There followed a very long section of tarmac which finished rather satisfactorily with a café, in Loch Ness Clay Works Pottery, a dark and dismal cottage in a woodland clearing. Here I was royally entertained by Joss Wynne Evans who made me a coffee and cut a lovely piece of whisky-flavoured fruit cake. I was impressed by his latest book on the poetry of Nicholas Snowden Willey. I finally dragged myself away, followed the grassy track through the garden and re-joined the official trail in a light and airy forest. A delightful contouring track took me to a choice of routes. Being me, it had to be the high route. And I was so pleased with my choice because the steep climb brought me to a fabulous viewpoint over Loch Ness. Then there was a humungous drop to a river and a rather featureless climb across deforested slopes out of sight of the loch. I then came to a stunning piece of natural sculpture, ‘The Viewcatcher’ made of Caledonian pine branches. The view was westwards towards snow-topped mountains in the distance. A steep descent along zigzagging tracks deposited me quickly into Invermoriston and a sign to another café. It really is very difficult to make good time with all these distractions. I enjoyed Victoria sponge cake and cappuccino in the Glen Rowan Café and had a welcome rest before the climbing still to come.

It took me some time to come across the start of the high route but, when I did, I certainly knew about it. The path went straight up the hillside, taking the occasional zigzag when the slope became too great. A woman coming down encouraged me with the words ‘you are nearly there now and the view is astonishing’. And astonishing it was. As I emerged from the steep wooded climb onto a fine open path, I was bowled over by the landscape before me. The entire length of Loch Ness unfolded, with steep sided hills on each side and snow-capped mountain in the distance. My one concern was the big black cloud that hid the hills ahead. I scurried along this high-level traverse, trying to beat the oncoming rain. But it caught me on the descent into Fort Augustus and I had to don waterproofs for the last 30 minutes of the day. I was delayed briefly by some road works and had to wait to be escorted along a section of re-surfaced lane on the outskirts of town. It was spot on 6pm as I pushed open the door to my hotel.

Drumnadrochit dep. 08.55, Fort Augustus  arr. 18.00 

GPS 22.01 miles in 7hrs 53 mins 44 secs walking with 45 mins (13.45- 14.15) in Loch Ness Pottery Café and 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Glen Rowan Café in Invermoriston.

I stayed at Richmond House Hotel and ate in the Lock Inn, haddock and chips followed by stick toffee pudding and ice cream. The beer was Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm Brewery.

Thursday 2^nd May 2019        Fort Augustus – Banavie

Oich and Lochy

The next morning began with a lesson in how to make waffles. Breakfast was a do-it-yourself affair and, as I had packed my reading glasses, I had to be talked through the various processes. This had the advantage of getting me on my way quickly and so, on a bright cold morning, I was soon crossing the canal lock and striding out along the wide tow-path, which was a vehicle track. I caught up with a pair of fast walkers, two Tasmanians, Helen and John, who were taking the opportunity of stretching their legs whilst their tourist boat caught them up. At the next lock, they waited for their transport and I pushed on to Bridge of Oich, a lovely old structure half hidden in trees and dominated by the new road bridge.

The route continued on the other side of the canal along the south side of Loch Oich. For much of the lakeside walk, I was on an old railway line which proved a delightful section through tunnels and cuttings with the loch to my right sometimes hidden by birch woodland and regenerated growth. Eventually, I came to the site of Invergarry station where 100 yards of track had been re-laid and a small diesel engine rested by the old platform. A project is afoot to provide  short train rides at this point. It also marked the end of this lovely section of the walk. I had now to cross the main road and pick up a riverside path that weaved through a narrow strip of woodland to reach Laggan Locks. Here was salvation after a long morning of fast walking. The Eagle is a converted Dutch barge which was moored near the locks. Inside was a pub and restaurant in a quaint narrow cabin. I took the opportunity of refuelling on coffee and scones and looked most enviously at the interesting beers on draught. What a pity I had so much further to walk. I could have drunk the afternoon away quite happily.

However, back to the task in hand. I crossed the lock and set out along a road which became a forest track along the north side of Loch Lochy. This was a very long section of the walk, at least 12 miles along a wide and featureless track with limited views of the loch. My main interest lay in talking to the parties of walkers coming towards me. There were two groups of Duke of Edinburgh students, a party of Americans who offered me a cup of tea, and several solo walkers striding solemnly passed. I had hoped to get a cup of tea at the Cameron Museum but, when I reached Bunarkaig, I found that the house was a mile back from the road. I had enough miles to cover today without adding a couple more. So on I plodded into Gairlochy and straight onto the canal tow-path. When I had first planned this walk, I had tried to get accommodation here but was pointed towards Spean Bridge nearly 3 miles away. So I bit the bullet and booked a b&b at Banavie, 6 miles beyond Gairlochy but still en route. This last six miles on the wide and open gravel road was boring and uninspiring. I did it as fast as I could, in well under two hours, and was very glad to see the top of Neptune’s Staircase, the set of locks leading down to Banavie. I rang ahead to get guidance into the b&b and was delighted to find Anastasia waiting at her front door for me. It is a long time since I had walked this far in a day.

Fort Augustus  dep. 08.34, Banavie  arr.18.00

GPS 29.23 in 9hrs 08mins 45secs walking time with a 20min break Eagle Inn at Lagan Locks.

I stayed in the Stalkers Dream, Taigh Nan Ord, Old Banavie Road. I ate at the Lochy Inn in Caol, steak and black pudding with chips followed by sticky toffee pudding and ice cream (this was very good). I had one pint of Caledonian Deucars IPA (4.4%) before it ran out. So I had to resort to a large glass on Shiraz as a dessert wine.

Friday 3^rd May 2019             Banavie – Fort William

In the Shadow of the Ben

As I had been warned, the house was empty and locked when I went down stairs in the morning. I unlocked the front door, locked it behind me and posted the keys through the letter box. The village was quiet as I slipped across the canal swing bridge, pausing briefly to glance up at the Ben which was now clear of cloud. But, boy, was it cold. I was back in tracksuit bottoms and I wished I had got out my gloves. Then it was back onto the gravel tow-path for the last mile to the sea lock, then on tarmac paths and pavements through the suburbs of Fort William. I eventually came to the end of the Great Glen Way on a piece of grass beside the town by-pass. The stone block was identical to the one in front of Inverness Castle but this had Ben Nevis looming overhead. The most difficult bit of navigation on the entire route was finding a way over the dual carriageway and into the town centre.

Banavie dep. 08.38, Fort William arr. 10.30

GPS 4.59 miles in 1hrs 43mins 24secs.

Conclusion

It was time to get some breakfast. A bacon bap and a cappuccino in Costas was very welcome. I just had time to buy a paper before the train arrived to take me to Glasgow. It was starting to rain, the wind was icy cold and I knew it was time to head for home. The trip over Rannoch Moor was spectacular, surely one of the best train trips in the country. We arrived in Queen Street bang on time and I was able to have a leisurely meal at the Drum & Monkey on St Vincent Street. (Fish and Chips, Sticky Toffee Pudding, and a couple of pints of Moonstone, a 5% ale from Hadley Brewery). I even had time for a coffee & carrot cake at the Patisserie Valerie on Central Station. Then it was onto the Virgin train south where faultless changes at Wigan and Manchester Piccadilly got me home to record speed time. It may have been a fast and furious few days but it had been 77 miles of happy memories and easy walking in a very beautiful part of the world.

 

Mary Towneley Loop & Pennine Bridleway (Part 2)

Worsthorne - Settle    19^th – 22^nd March 2019

Introduction

Last November, just before the dark nights of winter had set in, I made a start on the Pennine Bridleway. I walked for four days from Cromford to Summit, a total of 80 miles. Having sat out the winter now was the time to resume this National Trail. But there is an added complication in that completion of this trail involves the inclusion of the Mary Towneley Loop, a 47 mile circuit of the moors north of Rochdale. I therefore had to plan a completion of this circuit before pushing north on the main route.

Tuesday 19^th March 2019                 Worsthorne - Whitworth

A Foot in the Water

I was up early (for me) so that Jill could run me down to the station for the 08.02 train to Manchester. This took an age to get into Piccadilly leaving me with a very brisk walk over to Victoria and no time to grab a coffee before embarking on a train to Burnley. There was no taxi at Manchester Road Station so I walked into the town centre looking for the bus station and some transport out to the suburbs. There, I came across the taxi rank so I leapt into the taxi on pole and was in Worsthorne within 10 minutes. The village shop made me a cappuccino to take out and this I duly drank as I set off on my next venture.

My route started with a steady climb up Gorple Lane, in a straight line for 1½ miles up to the Mary Towneley Loop. I continued eastwards for a further ½ mile to the fingerpost where the Pennine Bridleway breaks out north from this loop. Then I retraced my steps and set off on an anti-clockwise circuit, heading downwards to Hurstwood Reservoir, crossing some wet pastureland before dropping steeply down slippery paths into Holme Chapel. The sound of children at play accompanied me as I passed the local school and crossed the road, river and railway in the valley bottom. The climb out of the valley was long, wet and complex and my boots were thick with mud by the time I crested the climb and came across the stone erected as a monument to Mary Towneley, the instigator of this bridle route for horse, bike and walker.

A cold wind was blowing over the tops as I sought the start of the footpath system that descended into the next valley and the village of Lumb. There was no café here so I continued onwards on semi-suburban paths on the other side of the main road. I passed through the housing estates of Edgeside and down to Waterfoot School and a tuckshop that was closed. I was beginning to despair for a coffee shop. I stopped a local and asked the vital question and was delighted when he directed me off-route to the Old Library Café, a wonderful find where I indulged in Bakewell tart and a cappuccino.

What I did not expect was the ferocity of the next climb. On concrete and then on rough stony tracks, the route went up and up into an area of disused quarries and mines. The route threaded itself between spoil heaps around the edge of a featureless plateau. It remained bleak to the Top of Leach and across Rooley Moor. As I descended southwards, it was disheartening to be heading back towards the distant Manchester skyline, especially as I was supposed to be progressing northwards. The sun was low in the sky by the time I reached Catley Lane Head where a left turn took me down through remote farms to the river in the valley bottom. Here I left the trail and went into Whitworth looking for my accommodation.

 

Worsthorne dep. 10.25, Whitworth arr. 17.45

GPS 20.18 miles in 6hrs 59mins 00secs walking time plus 30 mins at the Old Library Cafe in Waterfoot (14.45-15.15).

I stayed in the Red Lion in Whitworth where the kitchens were closed, permanently it appeared. The Birches, a pub a mile down the road, provided me with Atlantic Pale Ale (4.2%) from Sharp’s, and a wonderful Thai meal of green fish curry, cooked by a Thai woman who operates out of the pub kitchen.

 

Wednesday 20^th March 2019                    Whitworth – Hebden Bridge

Return to the Summit

There was no breakfast and no one in the Red Lion next morning. So I let myself out of the front door and posted the keys back through the letterbox. It was a damp and misty morning and I could feel water droplets on my face. The hills were hidden in the gloom as I wandered into the village looking for a sandwich but again there was nothing open. Whitworth seemed to be permanently closed. So I turned back to where I had left the trail on the previous evening and continued through Healey Dell to Broadley. The first climb of the day reared up at me and I was soon in the mist stumbling over Rushy Hill. I did not see the golf club house until I fell over it in the fog.

Here the trail signage gave out. A fingerpost was lying on the ground and a complex set of tracks ran into some old quarries. A Rossendale Way sign took me onto the path toward Brown Wardle and I had to cross rough moor to get back onto the correct track. The mist was lifting and I began to get some views. In fact the sun was breaking through and the temperature was rising. It seemed a long way before the anticipated right-hand turn was reached. I was beginning to think the signs were missing from this section. But finally I came to a fingerpost and turned east wards down into the stream that feeds Watergrove Reservoir.

The next mile to the visitors centre was very pleasant in the sunshine so I rang my daughter as I strode along. I had a quick bite of my emergency rations, my first food of the day, and sat in the ‘Life for a Life’ memorial forest, a delightful spot overlooking the reservoir. The next couple of miles were a sheer delight with undulating paths contouring round the hillside before a final pull led over a ridge and down passed cottages and farms down to the road above Summit. This was where I had finished last year. At last I felt I was about to make some progress on the Pennine Bridleway proper.

Heading north at last, the trail climbed around a series of crags, nesting sites of crows and jackdaws. Then there was a very steep zig-zag path down to the main road at Bottomley, Goodness knows how you would get a horse down this. There was no respite from the vertical. I stepped over the road, through a tiny hamlet of cottages and immediately started a steep ascent up a narrow walled track, paved with old flags. When the necessary height had been attained, the flagged route became a wonderful contour above Walsden and its factories. It was getting really hot now and I was out of water. Having not seen an open shop for over 24 hours I went in search of a clean moorland stream. I found a trickle of clear water and drank my fill. It was mighty warm for March.

The flagged route took me steadily uphill to the crest of the ridge where it bore right and eastwards. Here I had one of those ‘mirage’ moments, a starving man crawling out of a shop-less desert. Below me, glittering in the sun, was what appeared to be a pub. I sprinted down and within minutes was ordering food in the Shepherds Rest. I demolished a pulled pork baguette and threw down some Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%). I had not realised how hungry I was. Suitably refreshed, I strode out along Lumbutts Lane, quickly passing Top Brink Pub and Mankinholes Youth Hostel. Another long contour on a lovely path took me beneath Stoodley Pike to the start of the big descent into the valley below. The Bridleway went off to the right of the Pennine Way and I was soon above Hebden Bridge. So I left the trail and dropped into town looking for a coffee shop. I found a lovely cafe where I indulged in carrot cake and a cappuccino whilst the kind owners looked up the location of my b&b. It was just along the canal towpath. I could not have come out closer. Within minutes I was in my bedroom preparing for a good evening in the pub.

Whitworth dep. 08.35, Hebden Bridge  arr. 16.30 

GPS 17.92 miles in 7hrs 11mins 31secs walking with 30mins (13.45- 14.15) in Shepherds Rest then another 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Hebble End Coffee Lounge in Hebden Bridge for a carrot cake and a cappuccino.

I stayed at Riverview B&B, Stibbins Drive, Hebden Bridge. Just a few yards away was the Stubbing Wharf where I ate grilled haddock on a bed of mashed potato followed by sticky toffee pudding. The beer was Saltaire Blonde (4.0%).

 

Thursday 21^st March 2019   Hebden Bridge – Kelbrook

Bronte Country

I only met my landlady at breakfast. Susy had been working in Manchester the previous evening and I had been asleep when she arrived home. We chatted and caught up as she cooked me a lovely breakfast that was to see me through the day. I was back on the towpath before 8.45am, heading out of town and back on the Trail. The climb up from the river was steep and long but I eventually pulled out into a bleak hanging valley, with dark stone cottages clustered in small hamlets such as Jack Bridge scattered across a sloping plateau. Eventually the route broke out onto a high lane which climbed gradually onto Heptonstall Moor. From the highest point there were fine views over the reservoirs and moors beyond.

 

I briefly joined the Pennine Way as a herd of sheep were being led by a moped-mounted farmer across the wall of Gorple reservoir. As they fed beside the path, it was my turn to cross the dam. A mile or so of tarmac road led to the parking area for Widdop reservoir. The Pennine Way turned off on its way to Scotland but the Mary Towneley Loop turned west at this point and climbed steeply over Clough Head Stones. A new view opened out, a view of where I had started two days previously; Hurstwood Reservoir and Burnley beyond. An easy descent took me back to the fingerpost pointing north. Nearly 50 miles completed and I was back where I started.

It was a great feeling to be heading north once more. There was some splendid walking on dry firm undulating green hills with steep valleys and beautiful views below. I got into my stride and the miles flew passed as I crossed Extwistle Moor, dropped into the Thursden Valley and out again along the Bronte Way. Text messages were pinging in about my normal pub session back home but I had a session of my own booked in a gastro pub. First however I had a café to look forward to. A long descent brought me down to Wycoller Hall, an atmospheric set of ruins on a fast running stream crossed by old packhorse bridges. In the tiny village, the Wycoller Café was in an old cottage. It provided a cappuccino and some lovely Victoria sponge. I was feeling really strong now and was quickly back of the move, climbing the ridge of Knarrs Hill where I rested momentarily at the trig point. The high hills of Lancashire dominated the view to the north along with several wind farms. My daughter rang as I raced towards the next few lane crossings. Then it was down a steep concrete farm track into the steep-sided valley below where I joined a path that ran parallel to the stream all the way into Kelbrook and my accommodation for the evening. A long but exhilarating day.

Hebden Bridge  dep. 08.44, Kelbrook  arr.17.30

GPS 24.38 in 8hrs 21mins 40secs walking time with a 20min break at Wycoller.

I stayed in the Craven Heifer, Kelbrook, had a lovely room and a top class meal of roast pork tenderloin on a bed of mashed potato. The mustard sauce was gorgeous. I finished with sticky toffee pudding and custard (served in a separate bowl). I enjoyed pints of Cocker Hoop (4.6%) from Jennings and Thwaites Wainwright (4.1%).

 

Friday 22^nd March 2019       Kelbrook – Settle

The Ribble Valley

Having had a good night’s sleep, I was up and about bright and early. By 7.30am I was breakfasting on a ‘full English’, and by 8.15am I was out of the door and on my way. The day was grey and damp with a threat of rain. I walked over the fields out of Kelbrook to re-join the trail and turn towards my final goal, an afternoon train home from Settle. The first part of the route was therefore most frustrating. Instead of heading north, it crossed the main road south of Barnoldswick and headed south west. At one point there were views over Colne and Nelson, spectacular but not those I wanted to see. So it was a relief when I reached the road to Weets House and turned toward my final destination. A five mile straight lane over hill and down dale dropped me into the outskirts of Gisburn. I knew of a coffee shop in the village and I was not going to miss this opportunity, so I crossed a field containing solar panels and found the busy deli where I sat for a few minutes and demolished a Bakewell pudding with my cappuccino.

Then I returned to the trail and follow it through Gisburne Estate and its magnificent old house, now a hospital. The route then followed the verge of the main road before diverting away to cross the Ribble at Paythorne Bridge. The pub in Paythorne was open; what a pity I have just had a refreshment break. The section over Paythorne Moor was very pleasant. Some of it had been left as unimproved wetland and the moorland birds were in full throated roar. The larks were ascending and the curlews were gargling. This was over soon enough and then a different type of land had to be crossed, where open farmland, poorly signed, had to be traversed. I found myself in an appallingly kept farm with sludge runoff a foot deep. Obviously walkers were not welcome here. Out onto the lane, good progress was made to Cow Bridge and beyond where, at the edge of Long Preston, I took the opportunity of skipping through narrow lanes and missing the horrendously busy A-road.

It was well after 2.00pm and I was beginning to keep an eye on the time. A fingerpost said that Settle was 5½ miles away and my train was due before 4.30pm. My map indicated a much shorter passage but it kept me striding out on the long lane over Hunter Bark. The final mile into Settle was down a very steep hill and the sky in the west was thickening with oncoming cloud and rain. I got down just before the drizzle started, had a kind soul take my photograph in the market place and, as I had 50 minutes before the train, I shot across the road and into the nearest café. The middle stage of the Pennine Walkway was complete. 83 miles in four days. I was happy with that.

Kelbrook dep. 08.15, Settle arr. 15.30

GPS 21.19 miles in 6hrs 58mins 12secs walking time plus 15 min break for cappuccino and Bakewell pudding in the deli in Gisburn.

 

Conclusion

It was drizzling quite hard as I waited for the train on Settle Station. I could not have timed it any better. I had had four days walking without getting a soaking and was now on my way home and still dry. But not quite home. The trains in Leeds were in chaos: the direct line to Manchester was closed. There were so many cancellations and trains running late that the platforms were knee deep in passengers. I squeezed onto a late running train having no idea where it was going. The on-board signs said Liverpool, the people thought it was Manchester Airport via Victoria and half way across the Pennines the line reopened and we were brought into Piccadilly. Accepting the bonus, I caught an earlier connection than expected and was soon being greeted by Jill at Macclesfield Station. I was pleased that I had got as far as Settle. It makes the planning of the last stage of the trail so much easier. I can now return by train to Settle, whizz round the Settle Loop (10 miles) and still be in Kirby Stephen in four days walking. I am looking forward to the challenge.

 

 

Pennine Bridleway (Part 1)

Cromford - Summit    29^th October – 1^st November 2018

Introduction

The winter is on its way. Storm Callum has taken out one of our trees at home and the first cold snap has left its mark on the garden. Could I squeeze one more walk in before the dark nights? There was just a window of opportunity in the week after the clocks had gone back so I went for the Pennine Bridleway, a local and easily accessible national trail which I knew very little about.  Publications on the route are sparse. The website offers limited practical information and a guidebook for the southern section is out-of-print. I got hold of a second-hand copy, booked some accommodation and set off into the dark in more ways than one.

Monday 29^th October 2018               Cromford - Hurdlow

Inclined to the High Peak

It had been a very cold weekend but Monday dawned dry and settled so I turned down an offer of a lift and walked down to the bus station to catch the early bus to Buxton. I had time for a bacon bap & coffee before I went in search of the Transpeak bus which leaves from the railway station. The trip through Derbyshire was long but it was interesting to watch the locals gravitating towards the market towns of Bakewell and Matlock.  At last, with half the morning gone, I dismounted at Cromford and set off straight away up the steep hill to Steeple Grange. Here I gained the High Peak Trail and crossed the light railway to reach the National Stone Centre at Wirksworth. If I was cold when I started, I certainly warmed up on the Middleton Incline, my climb to the start of the National Trail.

At Middleton Top, I asked a passing couple to take my photograph in front of the National Trail notice board. Lydia kindly did the business and recorded the great moment. Then I set off along the High Peak Trail, relatively flat for much of today’s route. I got into a rhythm of around 17 min per mile pace and tried to keep this up for as long as possible. A cold wind was blowing across the bleak White Peak. I had to don my jacket whenever the sun went behind a cloud. I saw a few cyclists but no one on foot until I was almost at Friden. A runner wearing a Burnley FC shirt was jogging towards me. He was scheduled to reach Derby by evening on his way to the Olympic Stadium in London. His aim is to run to every Burnley away match this season. I wished him luck and we went our opposite ways.

At Friden, I sat on a bench briefly to eat an energy bar and drink my water. 2½ miles later, at Parsley Hay, I found the coffee bar still open so I had a second break, this time for cappuccino and cake. Another 2½ miles brought me to the car park at Hurdlow. My accommodation was yards away from the trail and I was glad to make the pub with daylight to spare.

Cromford dep. 10.55, Hurdlow arr. 16.26

GPS 15.60 miles in 4hrs 56mins 12secs walking time plus 15 mins at Friden (14.20-14.35) and 15 mins at Parsley Hay (15.25-15.40).

I stayed in bunkhouse accommodation at the Royal Oak at Hurdlow. I had a four-bunk room to myself: the room was warm and clean, the toilets and shower room were modern, clean and warm and I had a superb night’s sleep. In the bar, I ordered a plate of belly pork with a pint of Sir Philip (4.2%) from Wincle Brewery. I then moved on to Bakewell tart & custard and Touch of Frost (4.4%) from Storm Brewery

Tuesday 30^th October 2018           Hurdlow – Hayfield

Heading North and South

No breakfast was on offer this morning, unless I was willing to wait until 10am which is no use to man nor beast when you have to walk over 20 miles and arrive in daylight. So I had nothing to lose by getting up, packing my bag and setting off early. The ground was wet with early morning drizzle but this stopped as I slipped out of a sleeping pub and onto the High Peak Trail. This came to an end in two miles and the route turned right, across the main road, heading for Chelmorton. I had initially wanted to overnight at the Church Inn in Chelmorton but they no longer provide accommodation. Thus the Royal Oak bunk house is now the only on-route accommodation for the first 35 miles of the national trail.

Skirting round the village, the route crossed the next ridge and then took me over the A6 and into the vertiginously-sided Chee Dale. A slippery grass track weaved through the limestone cliffs down to Blackwell Mill where the cycle hire centre sold me a coffee and scone. I crossed the river via a narrow stone bridge towards the picturesque cottages on the north bank. A steep path zig-zagged up the other side of the dale through a farm and out onto a tarmacked road that ran beside extensive quarry workings. Eventually I reached the quiet hamlet of Wormhill the exit from which is along a delightful walled path leading down into Monk’s Dale.

The Pennine Bridleway does not follow the line of these limestone dales. It oscillates from side to side along walled tracks on the high plateau. My phone went just as I was facing a long line of cows being driven home for milking. I was able to chat with my daughter for a few minutes as they slowing mooched passed. I was looking forward to some refreshments at the pub at Peak Forest, only a few miles ahead. But when I reached the village, the pub was closed and I had no alternative but to move on into a cold drizzle. In Perry Dale, I sat on a stile in the rain and ate another energy bar. At least it was not too far to a coffee shop even though it was up a steep hill.

So I continued along Perry Dale, over the road and onto the lower slopes of Rushup Edge. Rushop Hall was prominent up a very steep stretch of tarmac. My disappointment was intense when I saw the ‘café closed’ sign across the entrance. Never have I walked so far (nearly 2 days) to reach a tea shop. And now it was shut. Rather despondently I climbed upwards to the main road and saw for the first time the impressive ridge of South Head. The track contoured across the hillside making straight for the hill until the lovely flat walking was interrupted by Roych Clough. Here the route lost some of the hard gained height and dropped roughly into a steep sided re-entrant. The climb up the far side, coming as it did at the end of a very long day, seemed interminable. Eventually I pulled out onto open moor at the foot of South Head and traversed easily round its base and passed Mount Famine. The town of Hayfield was laid out below me and I had an easy descent into my destination.

Hurdlow dep. 08.35, Hayfield  arr. 16.30 

GPS 22.95 miles in 7hrs 32mins 10secs walking with 15 mins in Chee Dale for a coffee & scone and 10 mins in Perry Dale for an energy bar and water.

I stayed at Millie’s B&B, Church Street, Hayfield. There was a selection of good pubs but the Royal won the choice as it was virtually next door. Fish, chips and mushy pies filled a very empty stomach. This was followed by Bakewell tart & custard for the second consecutive evening. The beer was Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%) from Wychwood.

Wednesday 31^st October 2018          Hayfield – Diggle

A Gap in the Trail

Even though Millie’s café does not open on Wednesday, the owner got up early to make me breakfast. So, reinforced in the face of another long day, I stepped onto the Sett Valley trail in cold but bright conditions: an invigorating start. I rang home to report that I was still alive and then turned off the trail and up a steeply cobbled track between stone cottages. The climbing continued right onto the moor where Lantern Pike rose to the left. Beyond the Pike, the route crossed flat and rather featureless grazing land with, for almost the first time on the trip, no distinct path to follow. Cown Edge now dominated the view ahead.

Before embarking on this walk, I had read of the various issues in getting a bridleway for horses and bikes around Glossop and across the Longendale Valley. Horse riders were certainly unhappy with the lack of off-road options and with the heavy traffic passing through the valley. In the Sue Viccars guidebook, a walker’s alternative is mapped out between Cown Edge on the south side and Lees Hill some 5 miles to the north. The current version of the ordnance survey 1:50000 map shows a slightly more direct option for the walker which by-passes Cown Edge altogether. From the road end near Plainstead’s Farm, I continued across the next field and over the Monk’s Road and then took a grassy right of way that descended passed a plantation. Glorious views of the Longendale Valley opened out to the right. The path then dropped steeply on a narrow trod down the side of Horse Clough into the Glossop suburb of Simmondley. The clue to finding the way out of this built up area was in the name ‘Green Lane’. This ran through a housing estate and became a bridleway at its end. Almost immediately I came to a notice announcing the next phase in the Pennine Bridleway development, the Gamesley sidings section. Obviously someone else is thinking on the same lines. I now found myself on the Trans Pennine Trail. I quickly re-joined the Sue Viccars walker’s route and marched beside the railway into Broadbottom. A garden centre was advertising their café but I found a lovely little arts & crafts centre, Lymefield, where the ladies cleared a table for me and cut me a wonderful piece of carrot cake.

Suitably refreshed, I climbed through the village and turned onto the Valley Way. This I followed to Hollinworth, noticing for the first time Pennine Bridleway route signs for the walkers’ interim alternative. Two very busy roads had to be crossed. Vast amounts of heavy traffic, travelling between Manchester and Sheffield, seemed to be passing through Hollinworth at that moment. It was a relief to leave all this commotion behind and to gain a delightful path through open beech woodland that slowly climbed back onto the moors. A wooden footbridge had been damaged by a fallen tree and I had the choice of a stepping across the stream on a greasy pole or crawling under the fallen branches. My wet and dirty knees indicated my choice. Soon however I was under Lees Hill where I re-joined the official national trail. I have no idea how the gap in the route for horse riders is going to be resolved.

It was all very straightforward from here. Tracks and tarmac lanes wound round reservoirs and dropped into Brushes Country Park and then up a stony track contouring high above Stalybridge and Mossley before descending into Greenfield. Here an old railway line took me passed Uppermill without offering a glimpse of the town centre and, in the gathering gloaming, I eventually found myself above the village of Diggle where I could descent a narrow lane to my pub accommodation.

Hayfield dep. 08.55, Diggle arr.16.55

GPS 21.50 in 7hrs 24mins 16secs walking time with a 20min break in Broadbottom (11.40-12.00) and a 15 mins break near Brushes Country Park for an energy bar.

I stayed in the Gate Inn, Huddersfield Road, Diggle, where I had a warm welcome and a lovely room.. I had a cheese and onion pie with mash & beans followed by apple tart and ice cream. The beer was Dizzy Blonde (3.8%) from Robinsons and Black Sheep Bitter (4.4%).

Thursday 1^st November 2018           Diggle – Summit

Reaching the Summit

The landlady was up and waiting to cook breakfast at 8am. So I got an early start and slipped out of the back door of the pub and into a damp day with clag on the hillsides. But as I strode back up the road and onto the route proper, the mist cleared and blue sky was revealed. By the time I had scrambled up to Standedge, my jacket was off and I was sweating. The first climb proved to be the only significant one of the morning. The next few miles were on wide  tracks, some stony, some tarmacked. The national trail zig-zagged between a series of reservoirs, through remote and magnificent countryside, looking splendid in the morning sunshine. I saw no one for hours and was getting quite used to this loneliness as I came up to the Ripponden Road. There I was transfixed. Like a man in a desert staring at an oasis, I stood awestruck by the sign board beside the path, ‘coffee shop and deli’. I recovered enough to enter the Rams Head and make myself at home on a cosy settee in the café.

Refreshed by a scone and cappuccino, I had a spring in my step as I descended to Piethorne Reservoir and then under the M62 motorway. The continuous flow of heavy traffic seemed incongruous in this vast and empty landscape. I was soon on the road beside Hollinworth Lake and it was fortuitous that I had had the earlier café break because there was no sign of any civilisation on the east side of the lake. I turned rather disappointedly back onto the moors passing the cottages and deserted farm at Syke.

The going was relatively flat from hereon in with just a few short climbs to remind you not to enjoy yourself too much. The route eventually came along a farm track at Higher Chelburn Reservoir. The diversion round the farm was the sting in the tail of a great day’s walk. The farm itself was an animal sanctuary, not just the usual donkeys and horses but reptiles (including snakes) as well. The view from Leach Hill was worth all the effort and the tiny village of Summit appeared in the valley below. I quickly dropped down to the river, crossed the canal and main road and shinned up the other side to gain the signpost on the Mary Towneley Loop. Having duly touched all the prerequisite way-markers, my journey for the week was over and I returned to the main road and the bus stop. The Mary Towneley Loop will have to await another day.

Diggle dep. 08.53, Summit arr. 14.50

GPS 16.62 miles in 5hrs 36mins 16secs walking time plus 20 min break for cappuccino and scone in the coffee shop/deli at the Rams Head on A672 above Denshaw.

Conclusion

A series of fortuitous timings got me home in record time. I reached the bus stop in Summit just five minutes before an hourly service was due. At Littleborough I jumped straight off the bus and onto a late-running train that raced into Manchester Victoria. My walk across the city was not too onerous and at Piccadilly Station an express was just about to leave. Within 90 mins of reaching Summit, I was in the streets of Macclesfield and heading for my normal Thursday night drinking den. A few texts alerted my usual drinking companions and they quickly joined me for a pint of Weightless (4.2%) from Red Willow. Then I was treated to a lift home. I had a lovely home-coming. Dinner was awaiting me and I was thrilled to see Jill. I was on a high for several days. The four-day jaunt at a goodly pace in cool dry weather suited me perfectly. The next section of this national trail is already in the planning.

Offa's Dyke (Part 2)

Welshpool - Chepstow    29^th August – 3^rd September 2018

Introduction

Back in 2006, Mike and I had squeezed in a few extra days walking by taking the train to Prestatyn and following Offa’s Dyke Path down to Buttington Bridge and Welshpool. Since then we have been tied up with our epic End-to-End walk which we completed last year. So, with more time on our hands, we could revisit the national trail which we had started 11 years ago. We booked train tickets to Welshpool and went back to the marches in more ways than one.

 

Wednesday 29^th August 2018           Welshpool - Mellington

Digging Beacon Ring

The unreliability of our local train company persuaded us to use the Wilmslow line to get to Crewe and Shrewsbury. Jill took us to Wilmslow Station to start our journey. A long connection at Shrewsbury gave us an opportunity for a late breakfast. We were in Welshpool by 10.50am and we set off straight away along the canal to Buttington Bridge. A light drizzle caused us to briefly raise our umbrellas, a strange event in this driest of dry summers. Crossing the parched farmland on the east bank of the Severn, the weather improved and it was hot work plodding up to the top of Beacon Ring and its iron-age monument.

The path contoured around the earth works to where an archaeological dig was underway. An  archaeologist suggested that we continue our circumnavigation to view a trench has been dug through the outer ramparts. We spent time that we could ill afford, considering our late start, talking to two more of the archaeologists and finding out how the dating of the site is being investigated. Then we set off again downhill on woodland tracks to the village of Kingswood. The route bypassed the village centre and halfway along we sat in a field and ate our lunches.

The last section of the day was almost a straight line though farmland and field systems, continually crossing and re-crossing the Welsh-English border. The town of Montgomery looked enticingly close by, tucked into the hillside to our right. But we had further to go, onwards passed Brompton Hall and Mellington Hall. After the holiday park, a gate led left across a rough pasture and onto a lane into the hamlet of Mellington. The last house, as always, was our b&b for the night.

Welshpool dep. 10.50, Mellington arr. 17.30  

GPS 16.20 miles in 6hrs 33mins 24secs walking time plus 15 mins at Kingswood for our lunch.

 

We stayed at Shirley Heights in Mellington. Sheila made us a wonderful meal of beef bourguignon, cheese & biscuits and some cans on Old Speckled Hen.

 

Thursday 30^th August 2018          Mellington – Dolley Green
Offa’s Roller Coaster

It was going to be a long day so we asked for an early breakfast. By 7.30am we were tucking into a ‘full Welsh’, and we were on our way soon after 8.30am. We first had to retrace our steps along the lane and across the field to get back on-route. Then the climbing started. As we slogged to the top of the first hill we picked up the line of the dyke and walked in the fields to one side. The sky was clear, there was no wind and we began to sweat, alarmingly for so early in the day. On reaching the top we caught our first glimpse of the rolling hills ahead.

Steep descents followed steep climbs for the rest of the morning. Under cloudless skies and with magnificent views we traversed this roller coaster of hills. We ticked off the valleys one by one, the Unk, Churchtown, Hergan, Clun and then the massive grind up to Springhill Farm where we had a short break for some food and water. Then thankfully there was an easier section involving a gentle decent, passed sheep and sheepdogs, to Garbett Hall before the last blast up Cwm-sanaham Hill and the glorious descent into Knighton. The first building we came to was the Offa’s Dyke Centre complete with café. We were thankful for a coffee and cake after a very strenuous day. But it was not over yet!

I rang ahead to warn our overnight accommodation that we were running late. It was after 4pm before we embarked on the last leg of the day. This began with a climb up through some woods onto a plateau of farmland and open moors. It was so much easier walking that we got into a good rhythm and in no time at all, it seemed, we were strolling down the lane into Dolley Green. What a magnificent day’s walking.

Mellington dep. 08.37, Dolley Green arr. 18.30 

GPS 20.68 miles in 9hrs 11mins 17secs walking with 10 mins rest near Springhill Farm and 25 mins (15.40-16.05) in the Offa’s Dyke Centre in Knighton.

We stayed with Thea and Barry at Rose Villa in Dolley Green. Our accommodation was a cabin in their beautiful garden. House and garden were surrounded by logs just like a Swiss villa, thus belying Thea’s origins. We ate in the kitchen ‘en famille’, with Thea producing wonderful food from her wood-burning range. The conversation flowed but we finally stumbled back to our cabin and a well-earned sleep.

 

Friday 31^st August 2018        Dolley Green – Hay-on-Wye

Another early start. 7.30am saw us reconvening around the kitchen table. Mike was not allowed to refuse the sausages, sourced as they were from a local farm shop. The main problem was getting away, such was the level and intensity of the conversation. With full stomachs and ringing ears, we set off down the road on a gloriously sunny morning. The initial section followed closely the line of the dyke, up and down hills to Evenjobb and beyond. There was a huge climb up Rushock Hill where the dyke wound its way around the steep contours. The long descent to Kington zig-zagged its way across sheep-grazed grassland which eventually brought us to a golf course and down into the lovely town centre. The cafes were full of the lunching golden oldies so we bought sandwiches in a supermarket and sat on a bench for our lunch break.

The route out of Kington was a gradual climb up a straight lane which became a straight track which became a straight grassy path along a high ridge of hills. On the highest point was a plantation of monkey-puzzle trees, a rather incongruous sight. The views into mid-Wales were spectacular in this sunny weather. The easy walking ended in a steep stony path down to Gladestry where the pub was firmly closed. Another series of hills were crossed before we found ourselves on another grassy path descending to Newchurch. As we sat eating our snacks, a young woman stomped up the steep slope towards us. She introduced herself as Laura Bentley; she was coming to the end of a circumnavigation of Wales, having completed the coast path in 10 weeks and was returning to Chester up Offa's Dyke. She was collecting for the Alzheimer’s Society. I promised to send a donation.

After the climb beyond the village, things became much easier. Lanes and stony tracks led us down into the Wye Valley and the final descent was on a lovely woodland path through Bettws Dingle. The very busy main road was an unpleasant interlude before we turned down to the river through massive fields busy with combine harvesters. The last mile was on a quiet section of river bank which took us to the road bridge into Hay-on-Wye. The accommodation, we had been told was just passed the town clock and so we soon were ensconced in the outhouse bedroom.

Dolley Green dep. 09.00, Hay-on-Wye arr.19.15

 

GPS 24.41 in 9hrs 47mins 58secs walking time with a 20min break in Kington (13.00-13.20) and 25 mins near Newchurch (16.00-16.25).

We stayed in Belmont House, Belmont Road, Hay on Wye. We ate at the Blue Boy, steak and kidney pie and apple and rhubarb crumble & custard. The beer was Landlord (4.3%) from Timothy Taylor’s.

 

Saturday 1^st September 2018           Hay on Wye – Pandy

Traversing the Black Mountains

This promised to be our easiest day so we had a leisurely breakfast and a wander round town before heading for the Black Mountains. A local shop cut us some sandwiches and we stocked up on jam doughnuts. The ascent to Hay Bluff began gently enough across low-lying farmland, parched in the morning sunshine. The path got gradually steeper, crossing tracks and lanes as it climbed. Suddenly we broke out onto high moorland with the ridge of Hay Bluff dominating the foreground. The route of the national train turned left just before the Bluff and ascended on a slanting path which gained the main plateau about half a mile beyond the top of the Bluff. Here we stood for a while talking to a lone walker from Co Down who had come up from Llanthony Priory. Then we started our long traverse of the mountain.

In these benign conditions, the crossing was a walk in the park. In fact all the boggy areas had been over-laid with stone flags similar to parts of the Pennine Way. And it was almost pan flat with imperceptible rises to the occasional cairn or trig point. At the first of these (pt. 610) we sat on the base of the trip to eat our sandwiches and doughnuts. At the second of these, Mike made the mistake of putting his walking stick down whilst he took a photograph. It was another 15 minutes before he remembered that he had left it there. I lay in the sun with the rucksacks whilst he ran back to retrieve it. We were encountering increasing numbers of groups walking towards us, doing the trail south to north. Several of these were Americans. One quartet warned us off jokes about their president, declaring that they were ‘Trumpers’.

The descent was gradual at first and then steeply down to a lane from which we could see the back of the house where we were due to stay. But access from the rear had not been negotiated so we had to trapes for over a mile round the lanes to gain the front entrance and then back up the very impressive tree-lined driveway. It was a great shame that the present state of the house does to reflect the magnificence to the approach.

Hay on Wye dep. 09.10, Pandy arr. 17.15

GPS 17.24 miles in 7hrs 16mins 10secs walking time plus a 20 min break at first trig point (13.00-13.20) and 30 mins for recovering a lost walking stick.

We stayed at Brynhonddu B&B near Pandy and walked the mile or so to the Old Pandy Inn for a meal of fish and chips and sticky toffee pudding. The beers were HPA (4.0%) and Butty Bach (4.5%) both from Wye Valley Brewery.

Sunday 2^nd September 2018             Pandy – Redbrook

The Whiter of Three Castles

Harp music welcomed us down to breakfast and accompanied us through our bacon and eggs. Suitable soothed we slipped out of the b&b just after 9am and set off once more down the long drive. It did not seem quite so long in the light of day and we were soon back on route over the train-line and across the main road at the Lancaster Arms which is now no longer a pub. An early up and over took us to the lovely village Llangattock where an American walker, from Boston,  told us that he did not know any ‘Trumpers’ and could not imaging Trumpers over here walking a national trail. A lone girl walker stopped to warn us of cornfields ahead. Little did we know what waited us.

Just after leaving Caggle Street, we started the long slog up to the White Castle. Here we had our first break and asked an Israeli couple to take a photograph of the two of us. Leaving the castle we soon met our first indication of trouble ahead, a footpath closure sign but with no alternatives indicated. We decided to press on through the closure notices and found ourselves in a massive field of corn, at least 10ft high, planted right across the footpath. Careful navigation took us under some electricity lines being worked upon, probably the reason for the closure in the first place. But the farmer had quickly taken the opportunity to plough up the path and plant his precious corn. We battled on through the jungle, eventually coming out onto a quite country lane. A diversion was marked at this end. Obviously north-to-south walkers were not catered
 

We needed another rest so we sat in a cider orchard and ate our snacks before setting off on an easier section of the day passed the holiday homes at Hendre and through the quiet woodland tracks of Kings Wood. This led us directly into the outskirts of Monmouth, and very posh outskirts they were. The River Monnow was crossed on a magnificent old bridge which acted as one of the town gates. The town of Monmouth looked lovely in the evening sunshine and it was tempting to stop for the night. We succumbed to a quick pint at the Punch House, sitting outside in Agincourt Square. Then we pressed on. A few extra miles tonight would make the last day so much less stress

We had not realised what climb awaited us. We toiled up this ‘sting in the tail’ but the view from the top, Kymin, was worth it. All of Monmouth and our day’s walk was laid out before us. Kymin is where Lord Nelson used to entertain Lady Hamilton and there is a naval monument nearby to 16 British admirals. The descent was long and gentle and all was well until Mike remembered he had left his stick on the bench at Kymin. So back he went and did the descent a second time. Meanwhile I pushed on to tell our landlady what was happening and I had time for a shower and change of clothes before Mike arrived, having persuaded a local lady to show him where our b&b was situated.

Pandy dep. 09.10,  Redbrook arr.18.50

GPS 21.83 miles in 8hrs 49mins 53secs walking time plus 10min stop at the White Castle and 30 mins (17.00-17.30) for a pint of Silver King (4.3%, Ossett Brewery) in the Punch House in Monmouth.

We stayed at Tresco b&b in Redbrook and ate at the Bell Inn. We were rather late getting in but they were most welcoming and cooked us a lovely meal of steak burgers and chips washed down by Golden Rule (4.0%) from Bespoke Brewing Co in Mitcheldean.

Monday 3^rd September 2018            Redbrook – Chepstow
Steep and Lofty Cliffs

Our last day. A train to catch so an early start was a necessity. Mike had strolled ahead to get his sandwich from the Post Office and, by the time I came along, we were ready for the first big climb of the day. But first of all we had to find it. Then a lady dog walker called us over and indicated a hidden set of steps that led onto the steep hillside.  Once we were up, the walking was splendid, through wooded paths and stepping over tree roots on top of the dyke. The descent to Bigsweir was long and gradual and we made good time through the woods and down the road to the old bridge. We did not cross it but instead turned left and south and repeated the climb and descent cycle.

We had not budgeted for the viciousness of the climb out of Bigsweir. It got steeper and steeper until we reached a set of wooden steps that took us into a complex of lanes and sunken paths before dropping into a very prosperous looking valley. We crossed this valley well above Brockweir and flogged up what turned out to be our last major climb. We were then in dense woodland all the way, rarely gaining any glimpse of the Wye Valley below. This added to the impact of arriving at the Devil’s Pulpit where the magnificent view over Tintern Abbey and the river opened up below. We sat eating our lunch and admiring the view. Two American ladies shared our picnic spot and we chatted away for far too long. Eventually, after receiving an invitation from Julie to visit her and do some walking in Virginia, we moved on and into the coda of our trip.

After another two miles of forest trails we were suddenly aware of a change in the character of the land in front of us. Suddenly, there in the distance was the sea, or at least the Severn Estuary with its road bridges and Oldbury Power Station.  The ridge dropped gradually away. A busy road had to be negotiated before we entered much tamer farmland and footpaths. A short section along the cliffs at Wintour’s Leap took us into estates and parkland on the edge of Chepstow. We detoured round the housing estates of Sedbury and then crossed the peninsular along the last section of Offa’s wondrous dyke. We did not expect an uphill finish but that was the only way of reaching the finish stone, perched on the cliffs above the Severn. A German couple had finished ten minutes before us and did the honours for our final photoshoot, Mike and me sitting together at the end of our long adventure.

Redbrook dep. 08.50,  Sedbury Cliff 15.50

GPS 14.97 miles in 6hrs 30mins walking time plus 30 mins at the Devil’s Pulpit

Exit Strategy 

We climbed over the fence to stand a few seconds on the very edge of Sedbury Cliff and admire the views over the Severn Estuary. Then we climbed back again and return down the path to the road and then turned along the pavement through Sedbury village and down the steps to the A48. The road bridge led us into Chepstow town centre where we had a coffee and a bite to eat. We still had time for a quick pint (Proper Job 4.5% from Sharp’s) in the Beaufort Hotel before we walked round to the station and caught our train to Birmingham. We missed the connection at New Street and arrived home some 45 minutes late but Jill was there as ever and we were whisked back to our house and a very well-earned sleep. In total we had walked 117 miles and I had another national trail under my belt.