Angles Way

Great Yarmouth – Thetford, 16^th – 20^th April 2015

Introduction

Three years ago I had walked in Norfolk for the first time and been surprised and delighted by the quality of the countryside and its paths. I had finished the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path at Cromer, where I was met and entertained by Jill’s cousin and his wife. Ever since then, we have been longing to renew the experience. An art exhibition at Norwich Castle was the catalyst. Jill and I travelled down by train and spent three happy days with Robert and Mary. Besides the castle and its Boudicca exhibition, we visited the Saxon burial site at Sutton Hoo. I was steeped in the history of East Anglia. All I now needed to do was walk the walk. So early one morning, Robert and Mary kindly dropped us outside Norwich Station. Jill caught a train home whilst I took a local diesel to Great Yarmouth.

Thursday 16^th April 2015       Great Yarmouth – Oulton

Saxon Churches

The 9.30am train from Norwich arrived in Yarmouth at just after 10.00am. I collected some money from an ATM before I turned over Haven Bridge and out onto the sea defences to the south of Breydon Water. The weather had been lovely all week and it looked set to continue as I covered myself in sun block and donned my new Tilley hat. It was a good four miles along the sea wall before the coast line turned left and into Burgh. The signage indicated that the route ran below the hill so I almost missed the Roman Fort and had to cut back up some steps to view the ruins.

There was a dreary suburban section through Belton but eventually I reached Sandy Lane which I followed until it became sandy. The skies were clearing and it was warm now as I passed a golf club and turned onto an overgrown path to reach the A143 at Fritton. A wide avenue led to an old church with a round tower, supposedly one of the best preserved of Saxon churches in East Anglia. I stopped for a look inside and then sat on the bench outside to eat a quick snack.

It was now very warm as I strode out along a long section of road to Herringfleet Hall and beyond. I passed another Saxon church at Ashby, this time with an octagonal tower. This was locked so I hurried on into Somerleyton. I was tempted to cut out the loop through the village and in retrospect I should have done so. As it was, I entered the village and got hopelessly lost in the marina. As I was about to climb onto the railway line, a couple sent me back to try again to find the correct exit out of the boatyard. This was an unmarked gap between some trees behind an old vessel. I was now back on-route to the station and thence to where I could have taken a short cut. Then came a stretch of very pleasant woodland, spoilt by a half mile section where the path had been ploughed. I soon reached Camps Heath and turned up Holly Hill to find my digs for the night. Laurel Farm was only 0.75 miles off route and was very easy to find.

Great Yarmouth dep. 10.10, 10 minute break at Fritton Church, Oulton  arr. 16.10

GPS 17.85 miles in 5hr 54m 22s walking time with 17.1 miles on-route.

I stayed at Laurel Farm, Hall Lane, Oulton, (Kevin and Janet) in a beautiful barn conversion in a courtyard behind the magnificent farm house. I ate at the Blue Boar just over half a mile away. Haddock, chips and mushy peas followed by orange cake and ice cream. The beer was Adnam’s bitter and it was well kept.

 

Friday 17^th April 2015    Oulton – Bungay
A Harrier over the Marshes

After a leisurely breakfast, I packed and set off back down Hall Lane and Holly Hill. There was a bitterly cold wind and I had my jacket on for the entire morning. From Camps Heath it was no distance into suburban Oulton Broad and a complex section of street walking. But I found my way through to the quayside. In trying to stay close to the lake I got off the signed route. However I spotted a Chinese Water Deer foraging in the marshland shrub. All routes seemed to converge on the wildlife centre so I was soon back on signed paths.

The next two miles were through major construction sites with much movement of heavy equipment. Footpath diversions were in place and the official Angles Way signage disappeared into the ether. This led to a very confusing moment when the diverted path re-joined the river bank. At the top of the steps up to the levee, the onward route was fenced off as part of the diversion system. It took me several minutes to convince myself that the way to Beccles lay beyond the temporary fencing.

Thus began the five mile slog along the river, not attractive at first so to while away the time I rang my daughter. As we prattled, the miles flew by and I almost forgot where I was. Suddenly, out of the reeds ahead of me, rose a Marsh Harrier, the first one I had ever seen. This was a great moment of excitement in a rather dull part of the walk. Eventually, after what seemed like an age, the river curved under a road bridge and into Beccles. This was a lovely grassy haven after a long spell on the bare river bank. The sun came out to celebrate and even more amazingly, I found myself passing a café on my way into the Old Market Square. It would have been rude to have walked any further.

Reinforced by panini and cappuccino, I set out again. The afternoon session was short and simple, following paths and lanes on either side of the main road. The last mile into Ditchingham was along a narrow busy lane with no pavements. The traffic roared passed at an alarming speed as I searched for the path over the fields. This I failed to spot and had to continue all the way up this scary lane to the Ditchingham outskirts. Here I abandoned the route and walked back through Bungay town centre seeking my accommodation for the night. I knew roughly where Treetops was situated and was much relieved to find a steep wooded path right up to the house. This saved a half mile detour. I was soon showered and changed and descending the steep path back into town in search of a meal.

Oulton dep. 09.18, Lunch in Beccles 13.16-13.50 and Bungay arr. 16.45, GPS 21.36 miles in 6hrs 49m 42s walking time plus a 35 minute coffee stop In Beccles, 19.13 ml on-route.

I stayed with Nigel and Valerie at Treetops in Woodland Drive, Bungay. I first tried a real ale pub but this was not serving food so I went to the Castle Inn and had a splendid leg of duck finishing with chocolate torte and coffee. The Earl Soham beer was a revelation. I stayed on Victoria Bitter, at 3.6% an idea session beer.

 

Saturday 18^th April 2015    Bungay - Brockdish

Electrifying Pace

I had an even more leisurely breakfast today. It was 9.25am before I was out in the morning sun, outside Treetops and ready for the day. I slipped down the steep path to the main road into town and walked back through the town centre and out once again to Ditchingham. It was a cool clear morning with blue skies and no wind. The circumnavigation of Bungay was a delight, on woodland paths around the common on the other side of the river. Jill rang me and we caught up with affairs in the real world like kids and grandkids.

The loop finishes at Earsham where the official route traverses a cattle farm criss-crossed by electric fences. The way through was not clear in the morning sunshine. I ended up on hands and knees crawling across the field and under all the electric wires. Oh for a bit of route signage! There was a sharp climb up to a plateau of farm land and then over to Homersfield where the path went past the old church and into a wood and a bench suitable for a lunch-stop. Then it was down onto a road and along the river into Mendham with its magnificent church. 

Here I crossed the river bridge back into Norfolk and up over higher ground into the outskirts of Harleston. I did not see much of the town as the route skirts around to the south and off on the road to Weybread and its magnificent houses. The last few miles along the river were splendid. Grassy paths ran through riverine meadows and woods. Time evaporated as I tramped onwards into field after wood after field. Suddenly it was all over. A bridge was reached then a farm yard and drive and there at the exit from the drive was the b&b and a very welcome cup of tea. I had been warned when I booked the room of the lack of gas at the pub for cooking. Would the pub have now got gas and a full menu or would I be on the forewarned pizzas?

Bungay dep. 09.25, Lunch at Homersfield (13.04-13.120, Brockdish arr. 15.48

GPS 19.23 mls in 6hrs 13m 45s walking time.

I stayed at the Greyhound House b&b, Brockdish. I found that the old Kings Head was still without a gas cooker in the kitchen so I settled for dough balls & garlic butter followed by mushroom and garlic pizza. Coffee and carrot cake made the perfect dessert. I fell in love with Moon Gazer Gold IPA (5%) from Norfolk Brewery at Fakenham.

 

Sunday 19^th April 2015     Brockdish  – Hopton
A Place of Diss-repute

Breakfast was at 8.30pm on this cold Sunday morning so I packed and was ready to depart as soon as possible after my full English. Today I was to cross the watershed of the route from the Waveney to the Little Ouse river systems at the dizzy altitude of 100 ft above sea level. First however I had to negotiate some farmland on my way to Diss. The agricultural sections were the only parts of the route requiring careful navigation. The Way was well marked generally but all signage often disappeared on the long farm sections. Today was a prime example as I followed a fingerpost along a clear track but then found myself off route and hopelessly of course climbing metal gates and crossing riverside meadows. However I had the river as my marker so I was able to get back onto route without much loss of time. Again I missed the correct line across fields near Scole and ended up too far south. My line back onto the route involved a right-of way severed by a dual carriageway the crossing of which involved sprawling over the central barriers. My only concern now was whether the coffee shops would be open in Diss on a Sunday morning.
 

I turned into the main street and, lo and behold, there was a café with tables outside. So I enjoyed a coffee and scones before have a quick look round the town centre. I moved on via the lovely mere and over well-kept parkland. A lovely setting made more-so by the late appearance of the sun and a warming of the day. As I walked towards Roydon, I could hear the whistle of an engine at a nearby steam museum. I encountered a herd of frisky young heifers and was quick to get through their field as I could see some dog walkers coming towards us. Cattle and dogs do not mix and I was not going to hang round to watch.

I then entered what I considered to be the highlight of the entire five days. The next three miles traversed wooded fenland around the watershed, on winding paths through the willow and reeds of Redgrave Fen. A short interlude on roads and around pig farms took me over to the wonderful Hinderclay Fen: walking at its very best. However nothing lasts forever and I was at last out into the afternoon sunshine and the last miles into Hopton. I could see the pub as I entered the village and popped in to warn them that I would be late for my Sunday roast. As I entered the pub, the landlord looked at me and my walking gear and just said ‘Roast Pork’. My landlady had called in to pre-arrange the keeping of some food for me after the lunchtime cooking had ended. I agreed to have a quick shower and get back as soon as possible. I stopped to ask some locals where the b&b was as there were no signs. I decided to try ringing on the door of the only unmarked house and was spot on with my guess. So I was soon showered and changed and back in the Vine.

Brockdish dep. 09.25, Lunch in Diss 13.10-13.40, Hopton arr. 14.15

GPS 20.08 ml  in 6hrs 25m 15s walking

I stayed at Mill House B&B, High Street, Hopton and ate at the Vine: Roast Pork (late Sunday lunch). The pub was CAMRA listed so I sampled Growler Lemon Head from Nethergate (4.0%) and Sirius Dog Star from Wolf (4.2%)

 

Monday 20^th April 2015    Hopton - Thetford
The Euston Express

I needed an earlier start this morning as I was not sure of the distance now the Angles Way has been extended to Thetford and I had a train to catch. So for the first time on the trip I was away for 9.00am. It was a cool misty morning with an obviously clear sky above. The mist soon burnt off and I was in for a stunning April day, so hot that I was glad of some of the shadier sections. The left-rights out of Hopton eventually led me back onto line and a direct march towards Riddlesworth Hall which is now a school. Then it was out onto open heath towards the start of the Peddars Way. I took a diagonal route across Knettishall Heath, coming out onto the Icknield Way south of its junction with the Peddars Way.

I had expected the long straight sections of the Icknield Way to be bare, stony and boring, but they were anything but. Much of it was tree-lined and sandy, making for pleasant walking underfoot. The highlight was a traverse of the Euston Estate. Here, as I trudged along a wide avenue with vegetation to either side, I was thrilled to see a barn owl flying slowly towards me, only banking away when quite near. It was a wonderful moment of stillness and beauty. The owl turned away and I carried on into Euston where a short length of busy main road awaited me. I was soon up and away, climbing this time onto higher heathland and a very straight section of the route. Again a main road was crossed before I turned onto a track much like my fears had led me to expect: massively wide and straight, no shade and a baking hot midday sun. I sat briefly in the shade of a tall hedge before stirring myself for one last effort. There was more farm activity here than anywhere else on the whole route so I was glad to make the turn off the Icknield Way and on to the finally run-in northwards towards Thetford.

After so much flat walking, the steepness of the last hill up to St Edmund Way took me by surprise. But it was not far now across Barnham Cross Common and into the outskirts of town. I followed the recommended route down Nuns Bridges Road and found the delightful riverside path that starts between the two bridges and leads by a series of footbridges along the river and into the town centre. I had time for a coffee and a snack which was fortuitous as no refreshments would appear on my four hour train journey home. There was one moment of panic when I could not find anyone who spoke English and that knew where the station was. But eventually a lady recollected a road called Station Road and we decided that would make a good target. I gained the platform at 4.00pm looking for a toilet or waiting room where I could change from my walking gear into something more suited for train travel. But nothing was open and I had to leave my change for a miniscule toilet on the two-coach diesel unit that arrived to carry me to Stockport. The country-side looked stunning in the evening sun and passing through towns like Ely reminded me that there was much more to see in this magnificent country of ours.

Hopton dep. 09.04, lunch near New Zealand Cottages (12.50- 12.58), Thetford Coffee Shop (15.20-15.45), Thetford Station arr. 16.00. GPS: 20.48 ml in 6hrs 24m 30s walking.

I caught the 16.23 train to Stockport and was met at Macclesfield Station by Jill who gave me a welcome lift home. I had had a marvellous five days of walking in near perfect walking weather.

Dales Way

Ilkley - Bowness, 1^st–5^th September 2014

 

Introduction
 

Phil and I had been discussing a possible joint venture for some time without any particular focus. When Phil tabled his enthusiasm to revisit the Yorkshire Dales, following our trek down the Lady Anne’s Way, the Dales Way became our late summer objective. A quick ring round some of the b&bs proved it could be a possibility to set it up at the last minute, the poor August weather seemed to be relenting so we went for the first week in September and hoped for the best.

Monday 1^st Sept 2014     Ilkley – Burnsall

Into the Sunshine

It hardly seemed the best as I was driven down to the station to meet Phil and begin our train journey. The weather was awful: the hills were covered by a cold blanket of cloud and drizzle. I was close to using the umbrella as I walked into the station. However from that moment the conditions got better and better and were to furnish some of the best walking weather I have ever had. The train connections went like clockwork and we hardly had time to grab coffees at Manchester and at Leeds before our departures were due. So we arrived at Ilkley Station ahead of schedule (12 noon) and were soon out in the sunshine looking for the river. We were disappointed to find no mention of the Dales Way at the road bridge so we set off upstream through a small park to reach a beautiful old stone bridge hardly wide enough for modern traffic. Here at last we found an interpretive board dedicated to the Dales Way and we realised that here at last was the official start. The early sections were very straight-forward, through a sports club, a few fields and then out onto a lane at Addingham. We paused briefly to look round the church, St. Peters, situated on raised ground above well-kept grassland.

Then it was out into open country with our first riverside walking. A short interlude on the road led to an underpass at Bolton Old Bridge into the Bolton Priory Estate. Fabulous views of the ruins opened out as we approached over luscious grassland. An even better view was that of an ice-cream van. We continued on our way licking cones of vanilla ice. We crossed the river at a foot-bridge and went through a wood filled with kids’ activity equipment. Then it was back over the river at Cavendish Bridge and then along a wide track through Strid Wood. We completely overshot the Strid, hidden as it was by a curtain of trees. By the time we realised this we were out of the wood and at a narrow footbridge across the river. For here it was an easy walk to Bardon Bridge and another ice-cream van. Foregoing the pleasure this time, we pushed on along the river to the Howgill loop and then back along grassy paths until the wide grassy fields of Burnsall opened up in front. I booked a table at the Red Lion and then trekked up to our b&b. It was not long however before we returned for drinks and a meal.

Ilkley dep. 12.03, Burnsall arr. 17.05. GPS 14.17 miles in 5hr 2m 58s.

We stayed at Wharf View Farm, Main Street, Burnsall, N. Yorks, BD23 6BP   Tel: 01756 720643. We ate at the Red Lion, fish, chips and mushy peas, and chocolate sponge with more ice-cream. The beers were Wharfedale King of the Mountains (3.9%) and Hatton Dark Horse Pale Ale (4.5%).

Tuesday 2^nd September 2014       Bunsall – Buckden

A Short Walk

We woke up to the perfect morning. Cool clear and cloudless sky, the early morning sun exaggerating the contrast between the water, the banks and the surrounding hills. We were in no hurry today. Our schedule was for a short easy walk up the valley so as to be in position for the big push tomorrow. So it was almost 9.30am when we left our b&b and headed back into the village and down to the bridge. The scene of the quietly flowing water under the sunlit old bridge was a picture worth having and Phil did not disappoint. We met a woman, walking a dog, who had seen kingfishers and a strange light in the sky following the ridge line of the opposite hills. We crossed the river at a narrow and bouncy suspension bridge which was under repair. Every time a walked wanted to cross, the guys replacing the wooden slats had to come ashore, so progress was very slow. Linton church was across the river as we came round towards the falls. Here we re-crossed the river on a more substantial footbridge to get the optimum view of the waterfall and weirs. Then it was back across the bridge and up into Grassington for a cup of coffee.

The climb out of Grassington was quite steep and rather confusing. It was only after a careful combination of guidebook and maps that we found the correct route across the fields and onto the high plateau. We made some glib comment of how difficult it might be for foreigners to navigate across such featureless and poorly marked routes. But we found a good line and headed across the limestone moors. We came across a couple of retired postmen who were heading beyond our target of Buckden. I explained that I would also have been trying for Hubberholme but was put off by the Tuesday closing of the George pub. They look at me with alarm and disbelief. It was Tuesday! On we walked until we came to a plantation where the path descended steeply to a quiet lane. This was followed passed a conference centre and then we turned onto a footpath system of fields and stiles into Kettlewell. It was time for another coffee, this time with some Bakewell tart.

 

We now only had four miles of riverside path before we came to Buckden. A woman walked quickly down the road toward the village and we walked more slowly after her. We eventually located our b&b for the night, a tea shop behind the pub (closed Tuesdays!). However the woman was in, the one who had been racing ahead of us down the road, and she showed us to our rooms. The bath was rather small but with a bit of a struggle we were soon washed and changed and having our first pint in the pub next door. A lady, American from her accent, was also staying at our teashop and we invited her to joint us for a meal. She had spent much of the day trying to find her way across the high ground out of Grassington. Our prediction of the difficulties that strangers would have to British navigation had turned out to be correct. Jane from Massachusetts was walking the Lady Anne’s Way, the route that Phil and I had completed some three years ago.

Burnsall dep. 09.25, coffee in Grassington, coffee/cake in Kettlewell, Buckden  arr. 16.20, GPS 15.25 miles in 5hrs 46m 24s walking time..

We stayed at the West Winds Yorkshire Tearooms, Buckden, North Yorkshire BD23 5JA
Telephone 01756 760883. We ate at the Buck Inn. I had steak & ale pie and drank Spitting Feathers, Theaksons Best Bitter (3.8%) & Copper Dragon Black Gold (3.7%).

 

Wednesday 3^rd September 2014    Buckden – Dent

Crossing the Watershed

It was very misty this morning and a haze hung over the hills. But there was no wind and it was warm and humid as we left our teashop b&b and set off into the upper regions of Wharfedale denoted Langstrothdale on the maps. We soon came to Hubberholme, confirmed the Tuesday closure of the pub, and wondered how our postman friends had got on last night in an alcohol free zone. There was some superb walking up to Beckermonds and the head of the river. Then it was over a footbridge and thence on steep tarmac into Oughtershaw and a rather unusual wayside stone. Here we left the lane and continued up the beck to Nethergill and Swarthgill and then onto narrow muddy trods up the fell side with the watershed of England in the marshy ground down to our left. We missed the direct route up to Cam Houses and found ourselves in the valley below the farm buildings. We were then faced by a steep grassy track to get ourselves back on route. Then a narrow path slanted up to the crest of the ridge where we met the Pennine Way. At the junction of these two major routes there was a small gathering of walkers eating lunch. We caught up with Ian and Nadine, our Middlesbrough friends, and swapped photo opportunities. Then it was off to Cam End and down to Gayle Beck along a wide track that had recently been constructed to give access to logging operations. Half way down we were passed by two monster log trucks throwing up dust across the dry countryside. At the bridge at the bottom sat our two postmen, full of stories about closed pubs and tins of lager.

Then came an unexpectedly rough section across Gayle Moor to Dentdale Head. The narrow undulating trod reminded me of how the Pennine Way had been many years ago. With some relief we stepped out onto the Dentdale road which we followed for many miles through Upper Dentdale, passed the Sportsman’s Inn at Cowgill (closed!!!) into the lower and wider parts of the valley. Here we regained the countryside on some field paths on a rather artificial route which crossed and re-crossed the beck in its attempt to minimise the use of tarmac. Eventually we came to tranquil riverside paths that led to the village of Dent. We left the path at Church Bridge and entered the village as the church clock struck five. We walked right passed the b&b and did a short tour of the village before asking a local who sent us back the way we had come.

A quick shower and we were ready for a pint and where better than in Dent. We started in the George and Dragon which is the tap for Dent Brewery. There sat Ian and Nadine having a drink before dinner. We crossed the road to the Sun and had an ample meal and more beer. It had been a great and tiring day crossing the watershed.

Buckden dep. 09.08, Dent arr. 17.05, GPS 22.41 in 7hr 40m 43s.

We stayed at Garda View Guest House, Main Street, Dent, Cumbria, LA10 5QL Tel: 01539 625209. We had Dent Aviator (4%) and Golden Fleece (3.7%) in the George and Dragon and Kirkby Lonsdale Tiffin Gold (3.6%) and Monumental (4.5 %) in the Sun to accompany a meal of camembert for starters and fish and chips.

 

Thursday 4^th September 2014     Dent – Skelsmergh

Up the Lune

It was a magnificent morning, unbelievable for Cumbria. We left the b&b just before 9.20am and retraced our steps to Church Bridge under a cloudless sky and with the sun bringing out the colours on the surrounding hillsides. There was no wind; the air was like wine, cool and invigorating as we set out along the riverside path. This led out onto a lane and then turned north to cross the river and climb up to a high ridge. Here the views of Dentdale were superb and a great introduction for what was round the corner. As we traversed round the end of the ridge, the panorama of Sedbergh opened up before us with the Howgills as a pale green backdrop against a blue sky. This was surely the greatest landscape moment of the entire walk.

The route dropped down steep grassy paths and into the hamlet of Millthrop on the River Rothay. Here we abandoned the route temporarily to seek coffee and cakes in Sedbergh town centre. But it was only a brief rest as we were soon on our way back to the Rothay via the beautifully manicured grounds of Sedbergh School. We followed the river as it wound its way through fields and woods and over the old Tebay-Ingleton railway. Eventually we emerged onto a main road which we had to trek for almost half a mile. Then it was over some farmland to the key turn of the day: a right turn into the Lune Valley. At first the way kept close to the river until we reached a magnificent railway viaduct cross high above the river. This was yet again the disused Tebay-Ingleton Railway. What a shame that this fantastic structure was now derelict.

The route then climbed steeply uphill and passed through a series of farms high above the valley floor. Eventually we dropped back down to the river and walked on its bank up to the beautiful bridge at Crook of Lune. Here the character of the walk changed dramatically. We crossed the bridge and said our goodbyes to the Lune. The lane went steeply uphill and under another magnificent disused railway viaduct. The traffic noise from the M6 now became apparent. But we walked beside it for an age, up through some poorly marked field systems. We lost the official line at Lakethwaite Farm but we were able to pull out onto a high lane and correct our error. The next field path led to a footbridge across the motorway and then across some quiet fields parallel to the West Coast mainline. A new diversion, not on the map or in the guide book took us directly down to a bridge across the railway. Just on the other side we met David who had been walking towards us. He turned back with us and we all walked on together to where David had parked his car near Skelsmergh Tarn. Phil and I continued to the A6 and then jumped into David’s car and were driven off to a lovely night of eating, drinking and chatting.

Dent dep. 09.19, coffee in Sedbergh, Skelsmergh arr. 18.00

GPS 20.38 ml in 8hrs 3mins 19s walking time.

We stayed with David, Phil’s cousin, who fed us and entertained us like royalty and the only thanks he asked was for us to re-tune his television.

Friday 5^th September 2014     Skelsmergh (A6) – Bowness-on-Windermere

Along the Kent to the Lakes

David cooked us a lovely breakfast before taking us back to Skelsmergh. He dropped us off at the entrance to the lane to the fishing tarn soon after 9am and we set off for the last leg of the trip. It appeared to be so easy that we fast lost concentration and ended up in a huge sloping field with not a clue how to get out. After two laps of the perimeter fence I retraced my steps to the top gate, found a half-hidden direction indicator and then followed this to the farthest corner of this mega-field and, lo and behold, there was the stile. I was a bit more attentive to the signs (or lack of them) from then onwards and it was not long before we were by-passing Burneside and were on the banks of the River Kent. Then followed a lovely section of riverside walking through Bowston and on to Staveley. It was tempting to search out a cup of coffee by taking a diversion into the centre of the village, similar to yesterday’s loop into Sedbergh. But we were close to finishing now so we kept to the official route around the south side of the village and over the by-pass. Then there were some steep climbs, some on lanes, rather unexpected for what was to be an easy day.

The section from the last road climb to the end was a sheer delight over rolling farmland and wooded hills. The first view of Windermere came as a wonderful surprise, opening up as we came out of a small wood. Then it was a plunge down a steep drop, only stopping to have photographs at a slate and stone seat which signified the end of the Dales Way. Some girls, waiting at the bottom for a party which we had earlier overtaken, recognised us from the coffee shop in Sedbergh. The road down into Bowness was just as steep. It took us into a different world. Suddenly we were surrounded by tourist, cars and commotion.  We found David waiting for us near the ferry pier. The tea shops were so busy we would never have got served so we jumped into David’s car and he drove us to The Station Hotel in Oxenholme where we partook of some refreshments whilst we waited for our train home.

Skelsmergh (09.12) – Bowness-on-Windermere (13.27)  GPS 11.60 ml in 4-15-16

Luckily I looked up the progress of our prospective train only to discover delays along the line coming south out of Scotland. So David took us down to Carnforth Station where a train from Barrow took us to Manchester. All went well until we reached Oxford Road Station where it was announced that a relief driver could not be located and there was no one able to take the train any further. Rather than wait (we had a connection to catch) we decided to walk to Piccadilly and got an extra mile and a half on the day’s total for our sins. But at least we got back home on time and I caught my lift home. We had left in rain and had arrived in a heat wave and not a drop of rain had fallen in between. We were blessed for this wonderful trip. 

Central Highlands

Corrour Station - Strathpeffer, 1^st–5^th May 2014

Introduction

Our end-to-end project is now entering the latter stages. Last year we terminated our walk in awful weather on Rannoch Moor, not being able to resist the temptation of jumping on a train home when we got to Corrour Station. To resume our northerly journey, we had to retrace our train journey back onto the moor. A train from Manchester dropped us into the streets of Glasgow in weather that was reminiscent of last year. We had to don all our wet weather gear for the walk to Queens Street. Here the Fort William section of the train was struggling to start its engines so we all had to crowd into two carriages and arrived late in Crianlarich where the Oban bound passengers left us. We were further delayed at Bridge of Orchy where we were held until the sleeper went passed. I was worried about the venison burger I had ordered at Corrour but the guard rang ahead and warned them we would be late. It was 10pm when we pulled into the dark wet station at the top of the world. My meal was ready and I washed it down with lovely beer from the Cairngorm brewery.

 

Thursday 1^st May 2014     Corrour – Kinloch Laggan

Mayday on Rannoch Moor

It was not very tempting to venture out onto the moor. The clag was down on the hills, it was very cold and windy and the air was full of wetness without it actually raining. Donning all our winter gear, we set out soon after 9am along the path upon which we finished a year before. This time however we kept along the southern shoreline of Loch Ossian and made fast progress to the lodge, an amazing building, at the eastern end of the lake. Here we met a construction team who were building a new hydro-electric scheme. The access road had completely obliterated the footpath up the glen. A supervisor gave us advice on how to wait for the diggers to see us and lower their buckets before proceeding through. One of the drivers got down from his cabin and directed us to the best route back to the path.  We then had a pleasant hour weaving our way along the burn before, on reaching the upper reaches, crossing and shinning up the steep southern slopes. The path that we were aiming for was an extraordinary construction, a beautifully drained trod on a raised dyke. We now made fast progress up to Bealach Dubh, our high point of the day. The views backward and forward were breath-taking.

 

Soon we were plunging down, checked briefly by a snowfield that lay across the path at an exposed point. After edging gingerly across we soon resumed our descent and stopped for a bite to eat lunch below the dramatic ridges of Ben Alder, now beginning to appear from the clouds. We then flew down to the valley floor and Culna Bothy. A notice stopped Mike from entering, ‘beware asbestos’. On we walked passed Loch Pattack and along a very wet track beside the river. Then the route became drier and grassier, the temperature rose and we were able to take off some of our winter gear. At last we came to a fork to the left to reach Kinloch Laggan some two miles ahead. We dropped through a wood to the lochside and onto a tarmac road from the Ardverikie Estate. It came as a relief to find that there was a mobile signal and I was able to ring our B&B and beg a pick-up. We emerged over a narrow bridge near the gate and lodge of the estate and onto the main road. In a few minutes our lift arrived and we were wheeling along towards our night’s accommodation. The Rumblie is a lovely bungalow in the village of Laggan. It has a small bar and a bistro. The food is served in a glass conservatory where one can eat whilst watching the birds outside on the bird feeders.

Corrour Station dep. 09.09, Kinloch Laggan arr. 17.05 with a lunch stop 12.57-13.12 just beyond the Bealach Dubh.  GPS 23.86 miles in 7hr 40m 26s + 15 min lunch stop.

 

We stayed at the Rumblie, Gregask Avenue, Laggan which is at least 5 miles off route. I had beef lasagne from the bistro menu and stick toffee pudding. The bottled beers were again from the wonderful Cairngorm Brewery, trying Sheepshaggers Gold (4.5%) and Caillie (3.8%).

  

Friday 2^nd May 2014       Kinloch Laggan – Fort Augustus
Corrieyairack and Pylons

The weather forecast was marvellous, sunshine and negligible wind even on the summits. Simon took us back in the Prius to where he had met us the previous evening and we set off round the lochside looking at the most perfect setting of snow-covered hills reflected in the still waters. Turning right up a track, we found ourselves on a construction road for the new electricity line. This eventually turned off and we proceeded to Sherramore on the original grassy surface. Here we turned onto General Wade’s Military Road which we followed passed Garva Bridge, Melgrave and up over the Corrieyairack Pass. We paused for a bite to eat before attempting the final zig-zags. Views were good but spoilt by the new line of pylons, the construction vehicles and access track. From the top, the military road kept to itself and provided a long and pleasant descent passed a house called Blackburn and down to a stream at the foot of the pass.

Here I took a questionable route choice, following the steam to the Culachy Falls. The path became increasingly overgrown and the falls were hidden behind the thick vegetation so we ended up on a narrow but signposted trod that brought us through a wood near Culachy House. The falls were obviously not a popular visitor attraction. We entered Fort Augustus via the burial ground, old and new, and then a mile along the main road. Guessing where the old railway may have come out, it was not difficult to identify Station Road. A house at the top of the hill bore the RBS Bank logo. Surely this could not be our B&B, but it was. Bank House used to be the bank manager’s house but has been sold off separately and now shares the building with the bank. Our host recommended a pub facing the canal and backed up her recommendation by appearing there herself for a meal.

Kinloch Laggan dep. 09.15, Fort Augustus arr. 17.30, GPS 24.18 miles in 7hrs 51m 19s plus a 20 minute lunch stop.

We stayed at Bank House, Station Road, Fort Augustus. We ate at the Lock Inn: chicken curry followed by Loch Ness muddies (chocolate torte). The beer was Batemans Yellabelly Gold (3.9%).

 

Saturday 3^rd May 2014    Fort Augustus – Tomich

The Balfour Beatty Way

As we emerged on another sunny morning, cool and perfect for walking, mountain bikes were arriving along the canal towpath and turning into the town. We asked marshals what was happening and were told of an event where competitors ride from Fort William, leave their bikes at Fort Augustus and then run/walk through the night along the Great Glen Way to Inverness. I was not tempted to join in. Instead I popped in a butchers to buy a pie for lunch and then we walked through the village and turned left towards Jenkins Park. Here we found a signpost pointing up the hill and indicating the start of the old military route.

We zig-zagged up on a delightful woodland path which, in the morning sun, could have been an Alpine route. If only the quality of the walking had lasted. Once we had levelled out we joined a forestry track which ran into a construction road for the new power lines. Now we were surrounded by health & safety notices which included demarcated mobile phone zones. So now we had a choice, we could try to follow the remnants of the old path or cut straight down the hillside into Glen Moriston using the Balfour Beatty Way. Not being luddites, we took the easy option and were soon on the road to Torgoyle Bridge and beyond.

Crossing the river, it was only a few yards before we found the construction road blazing its way up the opposite hillside. Just follow the pylons. In fast warming conditions we sweated and toiled up the stony and gritty track, ticking off the pylons one by one on our way to a 2000ft highpoint. There was the odd sign of the old route but it had mostly disappeared under the works access road. One mountain biker seemed pleased with the easy access to this remote area and we made steady progress towards our next destination.

On our way down we took a diversion to see the Plodda Falls and it was well worth the effort and the extra mile. The falls were spectacular, viewed either from above from a high viewing platform or from below in the deep wooded gorge. After an exciting half hour or so we then headed down the river, passing the ruins on Guisachan, the old home of Lord Tweedmouth, the man who moved Tomich to its present site and built the modern cottages which are now a conservation village with a huge monument to Lord Tweedmouth at its entrance.  

Fort Augustus dep. 09.15, Tomich arr. 16.45, GPS 20.35 in 7hr 09m 24s plus a 21 min halt to eat my pie. 

We stayed in Tomich Hotel, ate steak & ale pie & chips, followed by bread & putter pudding & custard (Mike had apoplexy). The real ale was An Teallach Ale (4.2%) from An Teallach Brewery, Dundonell.

Sunday 4^th May 2014     Tomich – Struy

Rest Day

There was no hurry this morning. The logistics of our walk were such that today we only had to shift 11 miles down the glen so as to be in the optimum position for the final day’s schedule. A leisurely breakfast and a chat with the owner had the cleaners waiting for our room. The sunny weather had departed and there was rain in the air as we headed north out of the village and up the road towards Cannich. We did not go through Cannich though, staying on the quieter lane on the east of the river. This continued all the way up to Struy and in that time we saw the very occasional vehicle and a group of horse riders. The only person we spoke to was a lady with a camera waiting for some photographs of birds round her feeders.

It threatened to rain several times and there was evidence of some puddles on the roads but it did not rain on us. Our luck with the weather was still holding. After a pleasant 3 hours or so through woodland of downy birch, we came to the bridge over the River Glass and into Struy. This seemed to consist of a pub and church and little else. Our accommodation for the night lay another half mile up the road at the Cnoc Hotel, which was situated above and back from the road in a rather bare garden

 

But they were most welcoming. Our rooms were not ready, not surprisingly as it was only lunchtime but we were led into the residents lounge, the fire was lit and we sat in luxury, still in our shorts, whilst we were served with coffee and scones. Mike had invited an old friend, a climbing partner from university days who now lives nearby with his wife, to join us for a drink. Jeff and Margaret arrived quite soon and we had a drink and a brief chat before they set off for a cycle. We meantime had showers and changed into more suitable clothes so that by the time Jeff and Margaret returned we were more appropriately attired for the residents lounge. The beers were served and the reminiscences began and Mike and Jeff were transported back to epic climbs in Glencoe. The drinks kept coming and the hours slipped away and then it was too late for our guests to go home to eat so food was ordered and we all ate together at the hotel and of course drank more beer and had more chat. So it was a lovely relaxing time with great company, a very nice rest day.

Tomich dep. 09.44, Struy arr. 13.25, GPS 11.25 miles in 3hrs 41m 09s.

We stayed in the Cnoc Hotel. I had fish and chips washed down by bottled Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm and Red Kite Ale (4.2%) from Black Isle.

 

Monday 5^th May 2014     Struy - Strathpeffer

River Crossing at Hangman’s Cottage

The one uncertainty of this year’s walk was whether we could wade the Allt Goibhre. If this proved impassable, a five mile detour would be necessary and our arrangements for getting home put in jeopardy. So we had an early start and got a steady pace going on our climb up the Erchless Burn. The weather was as yesterday, grey and threatening, and a cold wind had arisen. So it was back to the winter gear as we topped out the climb and began the long contour to Tighachrochadair. The path was waterlogged and we were slowed by the continual need to by-pass the wettest sections.

Eventually we could see the two buildings of Tighachrochadair below us. We failed to locate the start of the path that descended to the river so we set out hopefully into the grass & heather and came across the path halfway down. Tighachrochadair is in a remote situation, a deserted farm and barn on a grassy level beside a small river. The first building we came to was an open barn containing a huge notice board displaying photographs and newspaper cuttings from visiting walking groups. Some told the story of a woman who was revisiting this abandoned farm, her former home, in her dotage.

The moment had come. Down at the riverbank, it looked quite straightforward to wade the shallow waters. I had to stop halfway whilst Mike recorded the crossing. Then Mike pulled out the walking stick that he had carried for 5 days. At its first touch of the river bottom, it broke into two pieces. The swamp that faced us on the far side caused us more problems than the river crossing but we eventually pulled onto drier steeper ground and started a wet tramp towards where the map showed there to be a path. Suddenly two figures appeared ahead of us on a slight rise. So we turned towards them and found, as we expected, that these two were on the path. The woman was from Yorkshire and was planning a walk that she was due to lead in the near future. The older gentleman was introduced as a highlander. He told us how to pronounce Tighachrochadair and that it means Hangman’s Cottage. Then we asked him how one pronounces Cnoc. It sounded like Croc. When we were told that he was 85 years old we looked around in astonishment at the miles of wet featureless hills he must have crossed to get here. The air or water or whiskey must keep you young and healthy up here.

Happy that we had a few more years walking ahead of us, we set out into the wilderness which eventually ended on some high ground with staggering views of Beauly and Cromarty Firths and the Black Isle in between. We sat for a short lunch break looking out over the coastal plain and its green field below. We had not seen such fertility for days. Then we plunged down a steepening path to a 10ft high wooden kissing gate in which I got stuck. I eventually reversed out and tried again to get through without a rucksack on my back.

At the bottom we entered onto some quiet country lanes which eventually led us onto busier ‘A’ roads at Marybank. Our original plan had been to stay off road by going up the River Orrin, viewing the Falls of Orrin and then crossing into Contin over the Achonachie Dam. But we had heard, later confirm by our friends Jeff and Margaret, that access to this dam had been blocked by the power company. So the first bridge across the River Connon was Moy Bridge towards which we now walked. This valley must flood regularly as gates are in place to close the road. But we were fine and were soon crossing the Ullapool road and heading for a footpath marked on the map to Jamestown. This was obvious at first but the final section had been blocked by a farmer and we diverted up a field and climbed a low fence onto a lane. In Jamestown we saw the sign for a pathway through a wood into Strathpeffer and the finish of this year’s section of our end-to-end journey. There was a lovely little cafe serving coffee and Guinness cake. So we let one bus pass and had a relaxing hour in the tea shop. The next bus took us back to Inverness where we had a few hours to kill before our train home. So we had a quick look round the town and then went into a pub to a meal and some celebratory ale.

Struy dep. 08.45, Strathpeffer arr. 15.15, GPS 17.61 in 6hrs 13m 42s plus 21 mins lunch stop.

I ate steak pie and chips in a riverside pub in Inverness and some delightful Pollinated Heather Honey Beer (4.5%) from Black Isle on cask.

 

We caught the sleeper from Inverness to Crewe and then took the first bus home. A great walk in a little window of dry weather. Someone is looking down on us.

Howgills and Limestone Trail

Kirkby Stephen – Horton in Ribblesdale, 11^th – 14^th March 2014

 

Introduction

As the weather began to pick up, I grabbed a few walking guide books out of the library. The very next weekend, the weather man started his forecast with the words ‘on the weather map appears a word you will not have seen for 3 months “HIGH” ‘. I dropped everything, rang around a few b&b’s and packed a rucksack. The new book by David & Heather Pitt began to fascinate me. The route from Kirkby Stephen to Settle followed the railway line and provided easy access. It was also linked with Wainwright’s Pennine Journey, a book that deeply influenced me so many years ago. 

Tuesday 11^th March 2014       Kirkby Stephen Station – Ravenstonedale

A Multiplicity of Viaducts

I just had time for a mouthful of muesli before I picked up my rucksack and began the walk to the station. The fast train into Manchester was spot on time on what was a cool but magnificent morning, the like of which we had not experienced for months. There was a moment of panic when the Leeds train hit signalling problems, but it eventually got up to speed and left me less than 10 minutes to locate and board the Settle & Carlisle service. On a poor day this is a great trip but on a morning such as this, beneath a cloudless sky and between sunlit hills, it was truly memorable. The crossing of the Ribbleshead Viaduct was the highlight, before the dramatic crossing of Ais Gill Summit and the descent below Mallerstang.

 The station at Kirkby Stephen is so far out of the town that it is as though one has been dropped in the middle of the countryside. It was almost 2 miles to the church, with its paving stone dedicated to Alfred Wainwright and his Pennine Journey. I went first down to Frank’s Bridge and then back into town for some lunch. As I had already walked a couple of miles, I decided to leave out the guidebook’s loop round the Poetry Path and head straight off along the coast to coast route. This took me out through Greenriggs Farm and onto some vast open fields. Here I had great difficulty finding the correct line. I did not realise I would need my compass so early in the walk. I had packed it deep in my sack. Eventually I found the stiles and made my way round to Waitby and Smardale. Another navigational mistake here reminded me of the need to concentrate. I walked alongside another viaduct on the mainline, which I thought was Smardale Viaduct. Then it was a long drag down the old railway line now designated as Smardalegill Nature Reserve. Butterflies were flying already. This brought me to yet another viaduct, known as Smardalegill Viaduct, a lovely curved structure in a dramatically steep-sided valley. Here I met a couple who filled me in with local knowledge such as how the older locals pronounce Ravenstonedale. The man indicated a permissive route along the beck as an alternative to the dreary old railway. This was a delightful narrow path above the stream and through some disused quarries. This led to a path descending from the fell and heading down to Smardale Bridge. If I was to repeat this route I would next time take the high level route over Smardale Fell directly from Greenriggs.

From here it was a pleasant but muddy riverside path that eventually turned away from the river and headed over the fields and across the main road into Ravenstonedale. I arrived at my b&b at exactly the time I had estimated, finding my host unloading her car after a shopping trip. Just time for a hot shower and it was back though the village to the pub.

Kirkby Stephen Station dep. 12.30, Frank’s Bridge 13.05, lunch (13.10-13.50), Ravenstonedale 17.00

GPS 10.47 miles in 3hr 55m 07s.

I stayed at Westview, Ravenstonedale, Cumbria, CA17 4NG, Tel: 015396 23415. I ate in the Black Swan; chicken, haggis and bacon pie followed by bread& butter pudding and custard. The beer was Black Sheep Ale (4.4%).

Wednesday 12^th March 2014     Ravenstonedale  – Sedburgh

Crossing the Howgills

It was very cold at 9am when I left the my b&b and walked back through the quiet village under a cloudless sky. I regretted packing my gloves deep in the rucksack as I started on a 4 mile westerly journey to get to the foot of Bowderdale. Some of this first section was on roads, very quiet moorland lanes. Then there was a a nursery and garden centre to pass through in a most remote spot. My mobile phone began to pick up a signal and I was able to phone home and report in. At last Bowderdale Foot was reached and I turned south once more onto a bridleway into the Howgills.

The trek up Bowderdale was another 4 mile stretch, this time however in increasing dramatic scenery. The peaks of Randygill Top and Yarlside began to dominate the left-hand side of the valley. I passed two mountain bikers resting beside the waterlogged path. The trod had become a runoff for water draining down the hillside. Just before Bowderdale Head the main path forked right and started to climb up to the main crest. The guidebook suggested that the route should continue down passed Cautley Spout and on to the Cross Keys but I was intending to run two days into one and found no temptation to descend to a temperance pub. I therefore turned uphill and slowly gained the tops near the Calf. 

There followed a glorious traverse of the main ridge round to Bush Howe and Fell Head. I met a couple who had been in the Black Swan the previous night and we spent a few minutes chatting in the sunshine. A cool wind was blowing that made this ridge not the place to stop for a break. So I descended steeply down into a more sheltered spot on Whins End before getting out my bag of nuts and energy drink. I was soon on my way downwards  through Beck House and down to the River Lune. I dropped onto the Dales Way through the farm at Crook of Lune. Another disused railway viaduct dominated the westerly side of the valley. I followed the Dales Way until Bramaskew, then I set out over the fields to Height of Winder and thence onto Howgill Lane. At I descended the lane into the outskirts of Sedburgh, I saw a footpath not marked on the map which was signed to the cattle market. As this looked a short cut onto Station Road, I set off down and soon found myself at a new supermarket. I asked a lady if she knew where my b&b was and she guessed correctly as I was soon ringing the doorbell of Holmecroft, Station Road, Sedbergh, Cumbria LA10 5DW. Tel: 015396 20754, my accommodation for the night.

Ravenstonedale dep. 09.05, lunch on Whins End (14.00 - 14.11), Sedburgh arr. 16.46

GPS 18.58 miles in 7hrs 28m 26s plus the 11 min lunch stop.

John, my host, made me a nice cup of tea and advised me on the eating houses in town. So I soon put on my sandals and walked the half mile into Sedbergh. Here I looked at each of the recommended pubs and settled on the Dalesman where I had fish and chips followed by Bakewell tart and ice cream. The beers were Lancaster Amber, Lancaster Brewery (3.7%) and Main Line, Settle Brewery (3.8%).

Thursday 13^th March 2014    Sedbergh – Ingleton

Pot Holes on the Route

It was a very foggy morning. This seemed to add to the low morning temperature. My landlady told me that the forecast was for the mist to burn off by 11am, so I did not get my gloves out but wore my fleece as I went round passed an old church and the school playing fields. At Birks I crossed the river and then followed it through a wood and over a golf course. This led onto a narrow lane that climbed onto a moor where a bridle way led left across the grass. I needed a compass to find the correct line across the open moorside. In the next lane a large truck came menacingly towards me and I had no alternative but to climb a bank and hang from the hedge whilst it edged passed. Just as this lane came out onto the main road, the track to Fellside Farm set off upwards and eastwards. The climb onto the next range of hills went on for miles. But, as I climbed, I slowly came out of the wet clammy fog into a sunlit landscape of green hills and blue sky, with all the surrounding valleys filled with white cotton wool.

For six miles, I was above the weather in glorious sunshine and high level walking; one of the best sections of hill walking I  had done for a very long time. Eventually the ridge began to descend and by the time I was on Eskholme Pike, I was back in the mist and searching for my compass. Down at valley level, the mist had not as promised burnt off but had left a grey murky day. Rather than drop into Barbon village, I cut across Barbon Park and set off on the next section of the trail through the woods to Blindbeck Bridge. Here I crossed the beck and cut back down the road to find the start of an awful stony bridleway up to Bullpot Farm. Off road vehicles, maybe rescue teams from pot hole accidents, had left the track rutted and waterlogged. I stopped briefly by the farm to have a few nuts and some water and then set off down an equally muddy path into pothole country. Years ago I had descended Lancaster Hole, now out there somewhere on the nearside moorside. My own present day excitement was still to come. The path continued up and down until I was suddenly faced with a steep grassy descent. A path zig-zagged down to a stile which led into Ease Gill Kirk, a dark and spooky cleft of rock in a predominantly dry valley. The Ease Gill cave system was below. I tried to go through at valley level but found the rocky and slippery gorge increasing threatening. I was eventually confronted by a smooth rocky chute into a deep pool. The only alternative, without retreating, was to shin up a steep grassy scramble with led up to a narrow trod high up on the wall of the gorge. A delicate traverse brought me out into sunlight once more and a gate led onto the open fell.

The next two miles was a very enjoyable tramp over wet grassland above the beck. I noticed bubbles coming for a large puddle on the path in front. Closer investigation revealed a group of large light-green frogs swimming around and tending to their precious frog-spawn. A boggy traverse above a forest brought me to a grassy descent over well drained fields into the valley bottom near the village of Leck. The day was still not over however and a mile or so of road led to Ireby and a long section of field paths which, farm by farm, brought me eventually to Thornton Hall and the turn into Ingleton. The path came straight out into the bottom end of village for where it was a steep climb up to the centre and my b&b. This was entered through a front garden full of plants and I found my host for the night tending his bedding plants. The old farm was very basic downstairs but the bedrooms were lovely. Adrian had kept the old baths and toilets which added to the character of the place. I was soon lying in a piping hot bath foaming with muscle relaxant.

Sedbergh dep. 09.00, the Calf 11.45, Barbon 13.05, lunch at Bullpot Farm (13.57 - 14.10),

Ingleton 17.45
GPS 22.47 miles in 8hrs 31m 01s plus the 13 min lunch stop.

I stayed at Seed Hill Guest House, High Street, Ingleton, LA6 3AB, Tel: 015242 41799

I ate at the Wheatsheaf, Honey Cider Belly Pork and sticky toffee pudding. The beer was Threakston’s Best Bitter and Marston EPA.

Friday 14^th March 2014     Ingleton – Horton in Ribblesdale

Another Battle with Ingleborough

At dawn it had promised to be another sunny day but by the time (08.41) I left Seed Hill, the mist was collecting above the village. I had got an early start in the expectation of having a long and challenging last day. I had decided to go straight up the main track for Ingleborough summit rather than the extended loop suggested in the guidebook: this included three miles of road walking. As I gained height, I expected to walk out of the mist as I had done the previous day but the visibility seem to deteriorate and it got colder and windier. I was almost blown off the steep steps up to the summit plateaux and I had to pause to put on fleece and winter gear before venturing any further.

Ingleborough and I have history. The last time I ventured over the summit, at the end of a three peaks round, I had been hit by a blizzard and had messed up the navigation from the summit cairn to the start of the Horton path. I had come across on a bearing of 80 degrees but had hit the eastern cliffs and in the whiteout had not known which way to turn. This time I failed to find the summit cairn: it was a very thick mist. So I crossed the plateau on a compass bearing of 75 and still hit the east face. This time I knew I had to turn left and soon shot down a good path. Pausing once again to check the compass, I realised I was heading south and had descended onto the Clapham path. So it was back to the top once more for another push northwards. At last I was descending eastwards and after dropping through some rocks, traversed across grass to the main Horton path.

The long descent to Horton does not get any easier. In a cold gale blowing wet cloud across the fell side, the path was as stony, rutted, slippery and waterlogged as I remembered it from previous passages. It took an age to reach the final grassy fields and the last ridge over to the railway station. A peek at the timetable revealed that the next train was over an hour away. I was wet, cold and mentally tired from another battle with Ingleborough. I decided to abandon the day, go for a coffee in the café and forget about the continuation to Settle. There was no point. Visibility was poor, the weather was deteriorating even more and I suddenly wanted to go home. I changed clothes in the public toilets and walked on to the café. I was stunned to find it closed, even though the winter opening times were clearing indicating the opposite. So I walked back to the Crown, had soup and a coffee there, and then retreated back to the station waiting room. The 13.24 was running late and left little time to make a connection at Leeds. It was standing room only across the Pennines to Manchester. And this is the train company that will lose some of its rolling stock next year to a London train company. Virgin trains were experiencing delays at Piccadilly due to a fatality on the line so I was in time to catch a service that should have left half an hour beforehand. So I was back in Macclesfield by 4.30pm. What had started as a glorious sunny walk had ended in cold and gloom. The little glimpse of spring was over.

Ingleton dep. 08.41, Ingleborough summit 10.05, Horton Station (12.14)

GPS 8.78 miles in 3hrs 33mins.

End piece

 
I had based this walk on the new publication ‘Howgills and Limestone Trail’ but I did not stick faithfully to the suggested route. I found that the suggested stages had in some cases been extended to make 11/12 mile days by adding unnecessary loops (admittedly to places of interest). But by straightening out the route, I was able to do two stages a day without much problem and to produce a Pennine Journey of my own. Remind me though never to do that Horton path off Ingleborough again.

 

 

The Ridgeway

Avebury – Cheddington Station
8^th – 11^th October 2013

Introduction  

It had been a lovely summer, a bit too warm for long-distance walking. I still felt however that there was one walk left in me before the onset of winter. So I booked accommodation for the Ridgeway and hoped that I had not left it too late in the season. I vacillated between a 4 and a 5 day schedule but the difficulties in getting well-spaced accommodation on the first part of the walk were such that I ended up with a reservation for a pub on the first night which was not open until 5.30pm. I therefore decided on a 4-day trip with early morning travel and a long afternoon of walking on day one.

 

Tuesday 8^th October 2013       Avebury – Ashbury

An Avenue of Stones

Jill was up before the lark this morning and had a cooked breakfast ready for me before I had finalised the packing of the rucksack. Then she took me down to the station for the first train to Birmingham. The connections were on time and I was soon winging my way down to Cheltenham Spa where I had a very tight connection on to the Swindon line (via Stroud). Thinking that any transport problems were behind me, it was quite a shock when the multiple unit broke down at Gloucester and a replacement train was called for. It was fortunate that my connection in Swindon was not quite so tight and the new train gained some of the lost time. I had a very quick cappuccino at the bus station and then leapt onto a bus to Avebury. We arrived a few minutes behind schedule and, as on-coming darkness could be a problem later on, I set off straight away. 

I started my walk in bright sunshine by cutting across a corner of the stone circle and then out onto the road that ran parallel to the avenue of stones. I kept to the road to make better time and passed an odd young couple cuddling up together whilst lying on the roof of their old van. Soon after a police car, sirens blaring, shot passed in a great hurray. Were these events connected? Obviously not because a helicopter flew slowly over as I came out onto the A4 and the search was not aimed at the side road. It was 1.75 miles to Overton Hill and the official start of the Ridgeway. Although the sun had disappeared behind a thick layer of low cloud, it was warm enough for me to strip down to my walking shirt and shorts before I began the serious business of the day. More police sirens at the next road crossing. Then it was a long steady climb which eventually flattened out. The potential for views was obvious but the distant landscape was hidden by the water-laden air. 

Then suddenly the path dropped away and the first major feature of the walk came into view across a shallow col. Barbury Castle is a huge hill fort with double ramparts. The path climbed straight up through the middle, the atmosphere spoilt by a party of rowdy teenagers who seemed intent on chasing sheep. But I had no time to stop so I pressed on along a lovely grassy ridge which led eventually to Ogbourne St George. Not that the village is seen from the path. Before the first house has come into view, the route turns right and does a long loop to the south. After what seems like an age, and a busy road crossing, the path started to climb steeply and, for the first time, I was sweating. There was then a dreary section that emerged onto a vast high ridge with distant views of Liddington Castle. The track dipped and then climbed over the shoulder of the hill. I did not deviate to see the hill fort but dived down to the road which I followed for two miles or so to take me over the M4 and up to the foot of Fox Hill. The climb was rather taxing but I was soon over and on a flat track that ran above a series of villages dotted along the foot of the downs. At one of the connecting footpaths down off the top, I turned left and descended into Ashbury. It was not hard to find the pub, my accommodation for the night. The owner looked a little perplexed when I asked about a meal. He suggested that I should wait till after 8pm because he was busy with a party before then. From the look on my face, he could see my dismay. He relented and suggested I came down before the party arrived so it was in and out of the shower and straight down to the dining room. It had been a very long day and a long time since I had eaten. 

Avebury dep. 11.44, Overton Hill 12.15, Ashbury 18.15

GPS 22.17 miles in 6hr 32m 18s, about 20.4 miles on-route. 

I stayed at the Rose & Crown in Ashbury. Started with Wiltshire Gold (4.0%) from Arkell’s and then went on to UK Cascade (4.2%), Arkell’s beer of the month. I ate steak & kidney pudding and followed that up with chocolate sponge and ice cream.

 

Wednesday 9^th October 2013     Ashbury – Goring
Waylaid at Waylands 

It was a great shock to find out that the pub I was staying in did not do a cooked breakfast. I had a long, long day ahead of me and no prospect of finding food. Added to this, I was charged £5 for a bowl of Alpen and two slices of toast. Not a b&b that I could recommend. However such was my delight with the climb back to the Ridgeway and the first few miles of the route that I soon forgot my dismay. I had only just got into my stride when I came across the sign to Wayland’s Smithy. Not wanting to miss one of the highlights of the walk, I spend a magical few minutes entirely alone in the silent wooded setting of the ancient long barrow.  

However I had a long day in front of me and I was soon back up to speed, only to come across another opportunity for stopping. A side path to Uffington Castle on Whitehorse Hill provided views that were worth the small diversion. Then it was down to serious walking. Didcot Power Station came into view and was in sight all day and for some of tomorrow. The section over Bull Down was wonderful walking on grassy downland which continued almost until the A34 underpass. Then the route became rather dreary on a wide, rutted and flinty track passing over lower ground between hedges and offering little in the way of views.  

As the track began its long descent into the Thames Valley, I was confronted by the first of four tractor-pulled trailers full of freshly cut grass. Behind each trailer was a huge cloud of dust and out of one of these emerged a walker coming towards me, a local man who walks at least 8 miles a day for fitness and training. After a brief chat, I set off down the hill only to be passed by the returning four vehicles and more dust. I was glad to reach the tarmac because the tractors were now heading back towards me on a second run. It seemed a long drag along this lane and then the main road into Streatley. The town looked totally devoid of tea shops so I turned left towards Goring and, lo and behold, just before the bridge was a welcoming deli/coffee shop, (and it was still open!). It had been a long time since breakfast so I indulged myself with a cappuccino and a huge slice on Victoria sponge cake.  I finally staggered over the Thames and turned up Thames Road, would you believe, and walked a further half-mile on-route before turning into Mill Road to search for my b&b. I was quite tired and the hard ground had made my feet rather sore so I was glad to find my delightful overnight accommodation and have a long hot shower. 

Ashbury dep. 08.50, Goring arr. 17.10, GPS 25.35 miles in 7hrs 52m 11s plus a 30 minute coffee stop at the deli at the Swan on the Streatley Bridge. About 24.25 miles on-route. 

I stayed with Mrs Howarth, Melrose Cottage, Milldown Road, Goring. I walked to the John Barleycorn in Goring and had fish and chips, bread & butter pudding and several pints of Ringwood Boondoggle (4.2%) in very fine condition. 

 

Thursday 10^th October 2013    Goring – Cadsden (Princes Risborough)

A Grim Ditch

 

How nice it was to get a full English breakfast, and a really good one at that. The cooler weather that had been forecast had arrived overnight and I donned a long-sleeved shirt and fleece before venturing out of doors. Just before 9 am I began to retrace my steps along Mill Road and back to the riverside path. The first five miles along the Thames was a delight in the morning sunshine, on grassy paths through meadows and small villages. It was with a sense of regret that I arrived at a major road and turned right on a woodland path that ran alongside it. Another road crossing led to a long section on a narrow path raised above a desert of ploughed fields. Eventually the line of Grim’s Ditch was reached, hardly noticeable at first but getting deeper and more wooded as the higher ground was attained. Sometimes the path crossed the ditch and sometimes it ran along the bottom. But the ditch finally came to an end at Nuffield where the route turned left passed the church and over a golf course.  

The was a steep descent through more woods before the path came out onto bare agricultural land, huge fields with the path running in a straight line across the middle. I picked up and answered some text messages before descending again through more woodland and emerged at the bottom onto a straight wide track which was to take me across the countryside for many miles. This ran on the lower ground along the foot of the escarpment, passing Watlington and Lewknor and then under the M40. Crossing the A40 soon afterwards, the track resumed its straight line on a long section passed the chalk pits of Chinnor and onwards into a wooded area. At last the route turned off round a hill and then left the Icknield Way to climb uphill. There was a magnificent section along a grassy ridge with views over to Princes Risborough and beyond. There was a step climb to the top of Lodge Hill then an equally steep descent down to farmland and a golf course. A rather hairy railway crossing, high speed trains hurling round a steep curve, took me onto a climb up to the top of a railway tunnel and out onto a road. There was a section of road walking, the last section of which, an A-road into Princes Risborough was extremely busy. Just before the town, the route turned right into Upper Icknield Way and peace was restored.  

Just when a nice easy finish was the order of the day, the route then veered steeply uphill and contoured rounded a wooded hillside on narrow paths. This emerged onto a fantastic viewpoint, a grassy edge looking out over the town below. The route then took a right turn and descended steeply via a tricky forest path into the car park of the pub that I was staying in. It had been a long and varied day, some of the best walking so far. As I leapt into the shower to cleanse off the dust of the day, little did I imagine I would be triggering the smoke alarms all over the pub? As staff were running round and knocking on my bedroom door, I was prompted to dress more quickly than usual. 

Goring dep. 08.59, Cadsden arr. 17.50, GPS 27.59 in 8hr 54m 03s.

About 27.2 miles on-route. 

I stayed at the Plough at Cadsden. I had a half a duck with mash and veg followed by spotted dick & custard. The beer was all from Greene King, Gangly Ghoul (4.2%) a dark seasonal brew and the ubiquitous IPA (3.6%)

 

Friday 11^th October 2013     Cadsden  – Cheddington Station

A Game of Chequers 

The breakfast at the Plough was enormous, more than enough to keep me going for the day. I let myself out of the side door just before 8.45am. It was ever so quiet in the woodland as I set off across the road into a cold morning under a cloudless sky. Here my phone picked up a signal for the first time and I was presented with text messages from home. I was ringing home on the first climb of the day and it may have been this distraction that led me to my first error in route-finding. I was ten minutes or so wandering round Pulpit Wood trying to get back on route and I was quite relieved to once again pick up the line of sign-posts. 

I was rather annoyed at my carelessness. This had cost me time that I might not have to spare. I had a reservation booked for an afternoon train home. But this got me up to speed and I was soon walking passed notices telling me not to enter a serious crime scene. It took me a few seconds to realise I was now passing Chequers, the Prime Minister’s country house. This could be seen in the distance, lit up in the morning sunshine. I then missed another left turn which was not so costly on time and distance but jolted me back into navigation mode. I could not afford any more mistakes if I was going to make the train.  

A pleasant walk through the woods led out onto a spectacular edge of grassy down-land which terminated in Coombe Hill and its monument. Here was a magnificent view, with Aylesbury at its focal point. I chatted briefly with a girl runner, originally from Oswaldtwistle, who pointed out some of the sights to be seen. My earlier loss of time did not allow me to linger and, as the girl started her jog downwards, I followed as quickly as I could down to Wendover. The route goes right into the town before turning up a narrow path between the houses and out passed the church. 

The good weather had now deserted me. The clouds had rolled in and, by the time I had climbed out of town and through the woods, it has started to rain. So for the first time in the entire walk, it was out with the waterproofs. The drizzle got more and more persistent as I entered Tring Park, an attractive high country estate above the town. The rain was dripping off the avenues of trees and the path down to the A41 became slippery. Tring Station is a long way out of Tring and at the foot of the next (and last) big climb. Half way up the slippery scramble, I was passed by a serious fell runner who was motoring over the difficult terrain. The climb brought me out of the woodland onto a bare and grassy summit where the wind was so strong that I was struggling to make progress. It was stormy and wild as I descended to a road crossing.  

Thence onto the very last section up to Ivinghoe Beacon. It was a relief to pull up the final mound onto the trig point and viewing place. But the weather was so unpleasant that I again did not linger but set off straight down the steep face of the hill. And straight into trouble. In seconds I was in skin-ripping brambles and long scrub. So bad was it that I had to reverse my route and go back over the summit and back to the access road at its rear. This lost me more time so I ran down the busy main road into Ivinghoe village where I came to a road sign that said 'Cheddington 3 miles'. My heart sank as I now had less than an hour to the train. A quick look at the bus times showed me that I only had one method of transport available, so I set off at a slow jog down the very busy and wet road. It really was miserable conditions now and only movement kept me warm. After half an hour I saw a farmer getting out of his tractor so I went over and asked how far it was to the station. What an incredible reply! Just 50 yards down the road to the left. I was there! The station was a mile before the village so had only been two miles out of Ivinghoe.  

So I had half an hour to spare which gave me time to cross over to the deserted platform and strip off my wet clothes in the shelter on Platform 3. When the train arrived, I was back in civilian clothes and was warm dry and ready for the trip home. The 30 minute change at Milton Keynes allowed me to grab a cappuccino and pastry before the fast train took me to Stoke in exactly the hour. I was back in Macclesfield by 6.20pm and had time for a pint or two before walking home to prepare for the arrival of my daughter and her family, coming to stay for the half term holidays. No time to worry about tiredness and sore feet. The grandchildren burst into the house within minutes of my arrival and I was back in the real world. 

Cadsden dep. 08.45, Ivinghoe Beacon 14.25, Cheddington Station arr. 15.30

GPS 22.28 in 6hrs 50