Macmillan Way (Part 2)

16-20th April 2007

Introduction

In April last year, just weeks before my mother died, Mike and I had completed the southern section of the Macmillan Way, 120 miles from Abbotsbury to the Tunnel House Inn. Donations were sent to the Macmillan Way Association to pass onto to Macmillan Cancer Relief, the nurses from which had supported my mother in those last few months. So it was back to Kemble Station and to the Tunnel House Inn for the continuation of our walk northwards through England.


Monday 16th April 2007: Return to Kemble

Tunnel House Inn, dep. 10.00am
Rendcomb, arr. 1.00pm
Rendcomb, dep. 1.30pm
Bourton-on-the-Water, arr. 5.50pm

There was to be no driving this year. We had organised our start and finish points to have good rail links. Jill took me down to Macclesfield Station to catch the 6.24am train to Tamworth. Mike made a connection at Stoke and met me on the train. The rather complicated travel plan was thrown into chaos when a train had hit a cow and delayed the Tamworth to Cheltenham train. It arrived at Tamworth 25 minutes late jeopardising our chances of catching the Kemble connection at Cheltenham. However the train made good time, gained a few minutes and just sneaked into Cheltenham ahead of our connection time.

So at 9.34am, just as planned, we were back where we had finished a year ago, on Kemble station having a cappuccino with Nick Clarke, the man who runs the coffee bar. We heard all about his motorbike ride to Cape Town and promised to buy his book. Then it was into a taxi and off to the Tunnel House Inn. The taxi driver was not keen to risk the rather bumpy drive so we had an extra few yards before we officially started on the Macmillan Way once more. The weather was getting spectacularly good, cool winds and blue skies. Little did we know that it was to be like this all week and we were to get rather fed up with the unbroken sunshine. The early part was pleasant but surprisingly hilly but we kept up a tidy pace because of the late start time. Eventually we caught our first glimpse of Rendcomb College as we plunged down a steep road into our lunch-stop. The couple in the post office gave us tea from a machine and let us eat our own butties whilst sitting at their outdoor table. The school-children drifting passed us were evidently at the fifth most expensive college in the country.

The afternoon session proved long and hot, especially up the final miles into Cold Aston. However not long after that we crossed a busy main road and dropped passed the biggest field of free range hens into the Windrush valley. Here we turned off our route and on to an old railway and then a stream-side footpath into Bourton-on-the-Water. The B&B was not far from the end of the link path. Even though we got to the pub next door by 7.15pm, they could not cater for us because of a large party, so we wandered into the village and had a quiet meal at the Manse. We were served by a very pleasant young Spanish couple.

Total distance (GPS), 25.10 miles
Moving time, 7 hrs 21m 39s
Average speed, 3.4 mph, Average pace, 17m 35s per mile
Total ascent, 3043 ft, Total descent, 2923 ft

We stayed at Lansdowne Villa Guest House, Lansdowne, Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire, GL54 2AR. We ate at the Manse Hotel; we both had fish and chips and I continued with a Sticky Toffee Pudding.


Tuesday 17th April 2007; The Day of the Tennis Courts

Bourton-on-the-Water, dep. 8.50am
Long Compton, arr. 2.00pm
Long Compton, dep. 2.30pm
Shenington, arr. 5.40pm

Getting an early breakfast and a prompt start, we headed back along the Windrush to the point where we had left the official route the previous evening. The village of Lower Slaughter looked an absolute picture in the morning sunshine, perhaps too perfect. We got off route in the next series of fields and had to head for the River Dikler and follow this round to pick up the correct line once more before crossing the river to reach Hyde Mill. It always seemed to be warmed when we were on tarmac and, by the time we reached Adlestrop, we were glad to get onto grass again. There were tennis courts everywhere. We must have passed at least six gardens that contained well kept courts. The village shop at Adlestrop was closed so we continued ever onwards stopping briefly at the bus shelter to see the old station sign and read Edward Thomas’s famous poem.

We halted again at Chastleton House. The hall itself was closed but next door was a delightful chapel surrounded by a quiet grave yard with an ancient yew tree. By the time we got to our designated lunch stop, Long Compton, it was late. It had been a long morning. Whether it was inaccurate mile markings in the guide book or the unplanned excursions off route, we shall never know but the GPS indicated that we had covered 2 miles further than expected. We sat on a bench near the primary school and ate the last of our supplies, then we moved up to the village store and begged a cup of tea and a cake. These we enjoyed whilst sitting in the kiddies recreation field.

It got even hotter as we embarked on the afternoon session. The highlight of this section was a magnificent track called Ditchedge Lane which rang straight and high above the surrounding countryside. After climbing up and up for what seemed like miles, the loss in height was sharp and we suddenly dropped into Epwell. We were off Mike’s map now. Mike had left one of the four maps at home and we were now totally dependent on the guidebook. It was costly only in Epwell where we took the wrong path out of the village and found ourselves not heading for Shenington at all. Guessing which way we had erred, we turned left at our first road crossing and thank goodness soon picked up the correct path system. Minutes later we were in Shenington. A young couple, out walking their dogs, pointed us towards our destination, a beautiful old farm that was now a huge and elegant house. Mrs Coles made us a pot of tea and we chatted for ages about the farm, her choir and the fact that Mark Elder, conductor of the Halle Orchestra often visited the village.

A hot bath revived our spirits and gave us the energy to walk the 150 yards to the pub. A lovely meal was washed down by some great beer. All this was served by a young lady who turned out to be a professional musician, a French horn player who had actually played with Mark Elder and the Halle. We slept well that night.

We stayed at Top Farm House, Shenington, Banbury OX15 6LZ. Dinner was in the Bell Inn where we both had duck and I again repeated the Stick Toffee Pudding. The beer was Hooky Bitter

Total distance (GPS), 26.23 miles
Moving time, 8 hrs 15m 11s
Average speed, 3.1 mph, Average pace, 18m 52s per mile
Total ascent, 2311 ft, Total descent, 2222 ft


Wednesday 18th April 2007: Edgehill, the Longest Day

Shenington, dep. 8.40am
Chipping Warden, arr. 1.15pm
Chipping Warden, dep. 2.00pm
Weedon, arr. 6.30pm

We had a very big day ahead of us so we ordered an early breakfast and were ready to set of soon after 8.30am.There was an uphill start up a beautiful grassy valley. There was a brief problem with the route up these fields but we soon crested the broad ridge and began a magical walk along the northern edge. The views from Sunrise Hill were breathtaking. Edgehill was rather disappointing as the views were obscured by trees. A poorly kept path led us into Warmington where all we could hear was traffic noise from the nearby M40. It could probably be worse because most of the south lanes were stationary. Another slip with route finding around Warmington Church cost us another few minutes but we eventually sorted out the mistake and were on the road over the motorway.

Farnborough Hall looked delightful in the sunshine, especially in its beautiful parkland setting. A vicious looking dog watched us cross the railway line on our way into Claydon but there were few people around as we walked down the road to the canal. A narrow-boat was in the nearby lock but we hurried on over the fields towards Chipping Warden, our lunch stop.
We sat on a bench near the market cross and eat the delicious sandwiches that Mrs Coles had made us. Then we tottered over the road to the Griffin and ordered a pot of tea.

We now face a very long afternoon. Mike was glad when we got near to Eydon because we were back on his map and not so dependent on the guidebook. Whilst crossing the next series of fields we came across a freshly ploughed section, baked clay turned over into almost unwalkable clods. I fell during this crossing and cit one arm and grazed another. There was much relief when we reached the other side and regained our rhythm. The approach to Canons Ashby was magnificent; much more so than the close-up view. The walking got easier as we found tracks and good field paths over to Farthingstone. In my original schedule for the week’s walk, I had planned to stay here in the quiet village but had had to abandon this when we found that the pub does not provide food mid-week. So even though we were very tired and ready to call it a day, we were faced by an extra four miles into Weedon. But with one last concerted effort, we pressed on passed the lovely church at Church Stowe down towards the railway line; busy with Virgin trains all heading to and from Cheshire, our home. The canal was right beside the railway and this was the end of the official route for the day but not the end of our walking. We still had nearly a mile up the towpath into Weedon and our hotel for the night.

We staggered out onto the A45 not knowing where the hotel was was. A local pointed down to the lights at the A5 junction and in minutes we were checking in to the Globe Hotel and being shown our room overlooking Watling Street. The hotel was run by an Indian couple, although they were actually from Tanzania, Arusha in fact. After showers we went down for a pint but there was no beer, just lager. So we went over the road to the Wheatsheaf and wished we hadn’t. One of those places where all conversation stops when you open the door and five male faces stare at you through a curtain of cigarette smoke. Anyway we got a drink of beer and shot back across the road tempted by the Indian menu chalked on the board. Mike went up to order the curries, only to be told that the Indian food chef had not turned in tonight. So we were back on the bar snacks and I ended up, much later than intended, with Beef and Guinness pie backed up once more with bread and butter pudding.

We stayed in the Globe Hotel, High Street, Weedon, Northants., NN7 4QD

Total distance (GPS), 29.99 miles
Moving time, 9 hrs 8m 45s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 17s per mile
Total ascent, 2244 ft, Total descent, 2504 ft


Thursday 19th April 2007: The B&A Pie Day

Globe at Weedon, dep. 9.00am
Creaton, arr. 1.00pm
Creaton, dep. 1.45pm
George at Great Oxendon, arr. 4.30pm

This was going to be our easy day after the efforts of the day before. So we had a leisurely breakfast and made a 9am start, late for us on these warm days. Back along the canal and passed a family of new borne ducks, we were soon back on route. A careful crossing of the A5 brought us to Flore. The village shop sold sandwiches so we stocked up for later and then set out over a long set of flat fields. We lost the route near Vicarage Farm and ended up climbing some fences to get back to the signs. A long stretch of road took us through the Bringtons and passed Althorp Park. It was getting hot again as the sun blazed down on the shade-less tarmac. Surviving a rather nasty main road, we then got our first view of Holdenby Church, splendid up above us on its hill. I was getting quite ready for lunch as we climbed up the steep road towards Teeton and then steeply down and up into Creaton. We sat on the grass outside the school to eat our sandwiches and then walked to the Post Office to beg a cup of tea. What lovely people ran the shop. They did not normally supply cups of tea but in no time we were sitting on the wall outside drinking tea from proper cups and eating lumps of bread pudding.

This gave us the energy and incentive to brave the afternoon heat and complete a relatively straight-forward section of the walk. This took us passed Cottesbrooke Hall and its splendid parkland all the while on a good track. Then at Maidwell and the road works around the church, we dropped down the fields and onto the old railway line, now the Brampton Valley Way. It was 4 ½ miles along this old line to Great Oxendon with the only features being the two dark and dank tunnels. This has obviously bothered some people because our host for the evening was later telling us that many go over the first tunnel and the second might be taken out of the official route if it is diverted at some time in the future. I thought they were great fun but I would not like to have been alone inside them.

We arrived very early at the George which was locked. However the owner responded to a ring of the bell and we were shown to a lovely newly decorated room in an adjacent building to the pub. We then had the luxury of a leisurely shower and a rest before we wandered down for a few pints and a marvellous meal cooked by a good chef, the owner.

Total distance (GPS), 21.99 miles
Moving time, 6 hrs 46m 32s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 28s per mile
Total ascent, 1396 ft, Total descent, 1187 ft

We stayed at the George, Great Oxendon, Market Harborough, LE16 8NA. We ate at George; I had superb meal of Lamb Shank in a honey sauce followed by Bread and Butter Pudding. Mike went for the B&A option, beef and ale pie followed by blackberry and apple pie. The beer was Batemans XXXB.


Friday 20th April 2007: Saving a Family of Ducks

George, Great Oxendon, dep. 8.45am
Hallaton, arr. 12.45pm
Hallaton, dep. 1.30pm
Oakham Station, arr. 4.40pm

We tried for an early start but a long chat with the hotel owner/chef over breakfast, and then a blister treatment session on my feet meant we were not as quickly away as planned. A few clouds were around for the first time in the week but these soon burnt off and we were backed once more to warm sunshine. We crossed the A6 at the western end of the new Kettering by-pass and the diversions were well signposted around the new roundabout. There was a grand high section leading over towards Weston by Welland with a final descent straight into the village. A long road section was made more interesting when we met Phil Bagshaw, a local LDWA member setting up an event for the following Sunday, an alternative to the London Marathon. He was very chatty but time was pressing, we had a train to catch, so off we set again passed Slawston Hill and over to our lunch stop. The last half mile into Hallaton was not well signed and we were off course to the west before realising our mistake.

However we were soon standing outside the pub wondering were this ‘next door’ tea shop was. It turned out to be next door, in the pub car park no less. What a splendid café. I had a gorgeous brie and bacon sandwich and Mike had a jacket potato; very expensive but we had no other food with us. Leaving the café and reaching the northern edge of the village, we stood entranced by a mother duck and her ball-of-fluff ducklings crossing the road to the village pond. Then along came a car travelling alarmingly fast. Mike, the old softy, stood in the road waving the car to a halt and shepherding the ducks safely to the pond. The driver was not amused; not a smile passed his lips as he slowly drove off.

The next section was along a wide tarmac byway. I felt the end in sight and jogged a bit of downhill; this was easier on my sore feet. We still could not see Oakham as we came through Brooke and onto our final climb. Eventually we crested the ridge and saw the famous church spire. Charlie, a Dalmatian would not leave us as we got toward the final bit of road. Then as we entered Oakham, another dog walker stopped us to enquire about our progress. He had seen us in Brooke a few minutes earlier and was surprised by our rapid arrival. A train halted our progress momentarily at the level crossing, and then we were into the town centre and admiring the parish church. This signified the end of this year’s route and all that remained was to find the station, get the train times and change our clothes. A 30-minute wait for the train was made more bearable by the presence of a micro-brewery next to the station. A pint of Rutland Rouser (4.5%) was quickly dispatched before limping back to the platform and the Birmingham train. Our connection involved a 40 minute stop-over at Nuneaton. The coffee bar was closed but Mike had the brilliant idea of trying the Azda supermarket and sure enough their coffee shop was open. Mugs of cappuccino, with refills, for £1 each.

Felicity met us at Macclesfield Station; Jill fed us with fish pie and thus ended another great week of walking.

Total distance (GPS), 23.25 miles
Moving time, 7 hrs 10m 36s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 30s per mile
Total ascent, 2160 ft, Total descent, 2176 ft