Mid-Shires Way (Part 3)

 

8^th May 2009

 

 

Introduction

 

Last year Mike and I had used the Mid-shires Way to get from Market Harborough through the North Midlands. Time had not allowed us to get quite to Buxton. We abandoned the trip at Sparklow some two miles short of Pomeroy. So our April Trek this year was resumed with a return to the Royal Oak and a relatively short day into Edale using the Mid-shires Way to Chelmorton and then the Pennine Bridleway.

 

My own particular association with the Mid-shires Way began in 2007 (Ref. Mid-shires Way Part I). I had taken a train to Princes Risborough and walked to Market Harborough in preparation for the continuation with Mike in 2008 (Mid-shires Way Part II). The first day of our 2009 walk (Ref. Pennine Way Part I) had added the 4 mile section to Chelmorton but I still had unfinished business. There was still 30 miles to go so I needed an early start. There was no early bus to Chelmorton so I left my car in Buxton and took the 7am bus to Pomeroy where it would be at least 32 miles to the finish.

 
 

Friday 8^th May 2009: Early Bird

 
 

The bus driver dropped me at the point where the Mid-shires Way crossed the main Ashbourne road. So I was on-route just after 7.10am on a cold clear morning. I was glad that I had thrown in my fleece. I needed this for the first 3 hours. The wind across the limestone plateau was biting. It seemed a long way back to Chelmorton before I could definitely declare to myself that I was again on new territory. After the initial easy of flattish tracks, the drop into Deep Dale came as a shock. It was a steep slippery descent with a brutish climb out the other side up to King Sterndale. The church was covered in scaffolding and even at this very early hour, work had started. It was not far now into Buxton although the entrance into the town through the caravan site and run down farm is not particularly attractive. I passed the site of the old CEGB management centre as I started down into the town centre.

 
 

Buxton looked most attractive in the early morning sunshine. I was tempted to call into a cafe for a breakfast but I had a big day ahead of me and it was far too soon to indulge myself. The road section was long and boring stretching all the way up Long Hill and the Roman Road. One is almost at White Hall before the road becomes a rough track but then there are good views of Coombs Edge before the big grassy descent into Erewood. Quite unbelievable I crossed the Long Hill road at the very moment that Jo Miles, my LDWA companion of many walks, was cycling passed on her training ride. Then it was down into the Goyt, the river that I was to follow for the rest of the day.

 
 

Off came the fleece as the lower ground gave shelter from the wind. An easy section took me on a high contour into Taxal and Whaley Bridge. I found a good route down passed the dam and through the park into town. Whaley is not famous for its tea shops so I had no temptation as I rounded the canal basin and set off on a long section of tow path. It began to rain, but it only proved a shower. It persuaded me to press on and I ran for a couple of miles to bridge 29 and the turn off. The footbridge over the Goyt was not easy to see but I eventually located it and crossed just as the rain came back with a vengeance. I stood under the railway viaduct for a few moments whilst I donned my waterproofs. I grabbed my butty at the same time and set off into the rain chewing smoked salmon. The Tors are a fabulous section of path and the new millennium bridge is spectacular. Then it was a dreary walk through the pastures and meadows beside the river before the route turned uphill and over to the Fox Inn. The rain was still lashing down as I took the steep and slippery track to Strines Station but the sun came out again as I reached Roman Lakes. I was tempted to turn into the leisure park to see whether the café was open but everything looked dead so I walked on. I was soon back on the canal towpath but not for long. The Maple locks involve a descent by road. Eventually, just below lock 2 a stile to the right took me back onto water meadow and the confluence of the Etherow with the Goyt. The only problem with this section was that just appeared so unnecessary. A short continuation along the canal saves 2 miles and 40 minutes. However I did see something of the Etherow Valley before rejoining the canal for a short section through a narrow cut. A notice caught my eye. ‘Tea shop at Hyde Bank Farm’, right on route. Would it be open? Not only open but popular. A pot of tea and a slice of coffee cake and I came out flying. I ran much of the flat and downhill for the next hour. I needed to because I was falling behind schedule.

 
 

It was a surprising good path right into Vernon Park. Then a long climb up to the museum was followed by a steep descent down to a bridge across the river. The last mile was disappointing, through an industrial estate and under the M60. Before I reached the disused railway I came to a road back into Stockport. I was late and tired and suddenly realised just how far out of town I was. So I abandoned the route and turned for Merseyway and the railway station. As I dashed up the approach, the Buxton train was just pulling out so I had almost half an hour for a coffee in the buffet. Then it was back to Buxton and the car, a drive over Cat and Fiddle and a quick meal before the annual beer festival. Quite a day. But I have got the Mid-shires Way out of my system. Not the greatest route but I have certainly had a tour of the country.

 
 

Pomeroy dep. 07.11

Tea Break Hyde Bank Farm

Stockport Station arr. 16.10

GPS: 33.77 miles in 8hrs 44.36

Macmillan Way (Part 3)

21-23rd September 2008

Introduction

We have used the Macmillan Way as part of our walk from Lands End to John O’Groats. Over the last two years we have walked from Abbotsbury to Oakham. This year our major end-to-end project took us, in April, northwards on the Midshires Way. This left a task unfinished, the last leg of the Macmillan Way from Oakham to Boston. So after the summer monsoons had died away, we spent three days completing the route.


Sunday 21st September 2008

Starting on Sunday is no problem unless public transport is required, so we took the car to Oakham and parked it up at the railway station. A most amenable station master was watering his plants but took our registration number and made a note that we would be returning by train in three days time. So perfectly parked we set off on a beautiful morning, clear sunny skies and a cool nip to the air. Mike had pointed out the advantages of choosing the southern route round Rutland Water. And it was a great decision although it put a good few miles on the day’s schedule. We used the cycle way to get round to Manton where a long road section took us onto a delightful path round to Edith Weston and Normanton. Here we stopped for a cup of tea at a little wooden cabin. It was getting hot now as the sun glared down from a cloudless sky. We paused briefly on the wall of the dam before turning away and down a field path towards Ketton. The quarry to our left was encroaching onto the route and we came to a long and complex diversion to the right. This got so artificial and pointless that we took to the road and entered Ketton past an old windmill. A man collecting blackberries beside the road turned out to be an LDWA stalwart, someone Mike had seen on several LDWA 100s. Ketton village was beautiful, especially the lower part near the magnificent old church. We could not resist a quick look at the inside where we were entranced by a large map made up as a huge framed tapestry of quilted material.

Then we crossed the railway on a hidden footbridge and set out along the road and up a newly ploughed field. Thank goodness it had been dry. A trod in the soil took us uphill and along the crest of a ridge to another peach of a village, Easton on the Hill. We did not stop at the church this time but hurried on and down the fields, seeing for the first time the magnificent roofs and spires of Stamford. We crossed under the A1, complete with stationery traffic, and passed into the lovely water meadows beyond. We were soon in the lower parts of Stamford and amongst the beautiful stone buildings. We carried on to the main church, St Mary’s (there are lots of churches) and then got the instructions out as to how to find our bed and breakfast. It was only a short walk off route to find our accommodation, a rambling old house with a steep terraced back garden. No-one will ever believe me but it was a complete coincidence that the pub next door, the Green Man, was having a beer festival. So we called in on the way to town for a Chinese meal, and we called in again on the way back. A great end to a near perfect day. Beers were Tipples Lady Evelyn (4.1%), Oakhams Bishops Farewell (4.6%) and Cheltenham Festival Gold (4.4%).

We stayed with Mrs. T. Averdieck, 5 Rock Terrace, Scotgate, Stamford, Lincs, PE9 2YJ
Tel: 01780 755475
Oakham dep. 10.38, Stamford arr. 16.45
Walking time: 5hrs 53-53, 19.43 miles (GPS)


Monday 22nd September 2008

The weather was not so good in the morning. The skies were grey, a cold wind had got up, and rain was definitely in the air. After a magnificent breakfast, we walked back into the shopping streets and got maps, money and sandwiches. So it was quite late before we got going, a mile of town before turning up a track between some industrial buildings and into the meadows of the River Gwash. A small footbridge led us across the river and the route then climbed up a grassy field grazed by sheep. Little did we think at the time that this would be the last hill we would encounter. A long bridle way between trees led us to the highest point (150 ft above sea level). Then we were on tarmac, a flat road that led us to a level crossing. We had to stop and wait for a train. Then the barriers went up and we started across, half way across the lines two things happen simultaneously, Mike’s phone went and the training warning lights came back on. To my amazement, Mike stopped to unpack his phone. I suggested with some urgency that instead we should run to get off the lines before the barriers crashed down again. Mike then phoned home as another high speed train flew by.

Then it was off the road and round the fields to the village of Greatford. Mike’s adventures had not finished. He pulled out his reading glasses to read his new map and the arm fell off. Luckily the tiny screw was still in his pocket so he was able to rescue it and store it carefully away. But map reading would become a problem, to be resolved shortly when we walked off the edge of his map. I and the guidebook would then be our only navigational tools, the high risk option. At Kate’s Bridge we debated whether to turn off the route to see if the garden centre café would provide us with a cup of tea. But it was still early and the large breakfast was till fuelling the efforts so we crossed the busy A16 and turned onto the flood wall of the River Glen. If we had realised then that we were to follow this for 17 miles, I think we would have turned back to the café. An initial loop of the dyke to get round a flood meadow was the only departure from a straight line along the river. Occasional features stick in our minds. We drove a flock of sheep for a couple of miles until a fence turned them back, then the same scenario with some cattle except that this time there was a huge fierce looking bull that kept stopping to eye us up. We saw lots of birdlife, kingfishers, herons, and hawks as we passed through linear nature reserves based on habitats probably similar to the original fens. I began to understand what had really happened in the 17th century when the fens had been drained. The main rivers have nothing to do with the surrounding land drainage. They are just raised waterways taking run off from the midlands to the Wash.

To add to the dreariness, the clouds got greyer and lower and it started to rain. So out came the umbrellas and I could no longer peer into the surrounding gloom. All things come to an end and the riverside tramp finished at Pinchbeck West. Here the route continues down the quieter of roads that run down each side of the river. Still the rain came down and we were relieved to reach Pinchbeck itself and get off the road for the final mile to our farm accommodation. Mr Rowell very kindly took us down to the Bull where we had a plate of plaice and chips and then a marmalade bread and butter pudding. This was washed down with a couple of pints of a Cambridge brew. It was pitch black when we walked home and we trod in all sorts of mud as we slither back along the wet roads.

We stayed at Manor Farm, Langhole Drove, Pinchbeck, Spalding, PE11 3XP
Mrs M. Rowell, Tel: 01775 762027,
Stamford dep. 0915, Pinchbeck arr. 16.30
Walking Time: 6hrs 50-00 21.75 miles.


Tuesday 23rd September 2008

Our farm was right on route so 30 seconds after saying our farewells we were back on riverside bank of the Glen and heading for the main sluice. We passed a church that was tilting into the sinking fens so that its spire leans farther than the leaning tower of Pisa. The sluice itself was a very impressive arrangement of lock gates and pumps. It seemed strange to suddenly be aware of the tidal nature of the river beyond. As we turned onto the sea wall of the River Wetland the rain came in and forced us to fight under our umbrellas against a cold northerly wind. This river was massive compared with the old friend we had follwed for so long. It was like walking along the Ship Canal. We crossed another major road, the A17 at Fosdyke Bridge and then set out onto a remote section of sea wall around the Welland Estuary. We could see boats now coming in and out of the river. A bench of the leeward side of the sea wall provided us with shelter for a very brief lunch-stop, and then it was off again towards to distant profile of the Boston Stump. Eventually we turned the corner and headed north up the Haven, the major river into Boston. Here larger ships were passing. An amazing sight was the bird life round a waste landfill dump. Then it was through the docks and into the town proper. Traffic again after so long in the sticks. A complex road junction took us across the river and up to the church that was the end of the walk. We had seen the Stump, the huge church tower for the last few hours. Now all that remained was to climb it. Ten minutes was enough to see all around and then it was down for a cup of coffee and the train back to Oakham.

Pinchbeck dep. 08.35, Boston arr. 14.40
Walking Time: 5hr 50-51. 18.2 miles (GPS)

So that was it. A three year project was finished. The whole concept, from our annual adventures in spring, my mother’s last few weeks in the hands of the Macmillan nurses, all came together as I climbed the steps of the Boston Stump and looked out over the fens. A part of my life was behind me and it was time to move on, back to the hills and the north.

Macmillan Way (Part 1)

24-28th April 2006

Introduction

Each spring for six out of the last eight years, Mike and I have spent four or five days walking around the South West Peninsula Coast Path. Starting at Minehead in 1998, we chipped away at over 100 miles per year to reach Poole in April 2005. Our task was finally done and our life felt empty. So how were we to continue? Onward around the south coast (we could not face all those towns and built up coastline) or overseas round France or Ireland (too far for a short break). Finally the solution became obvious. We had last year passed by the start of the Macmillan Way, not far back down the Dorset coast near Abbotsbury. My mother had been diagnosed with cancer and was using the Macmillan Nurses. So all signs pointed us back to Chesil Beach and the start of a long walk north.

Monday 24th April 2006

I was awakened by a 6.00am alarm so that I could get some breakfast before driving over to Congleton. Mike was ready as always and we were travelling south by 7.00am. No point in worrying about the Birmingham traffic. The usual tactic is to have plenty of time to spare, join the queue, keep calm and eventually you are onto the M5 and moving again. We used the new exit off the motorway near Barnwood to get round to Cirencester and thence to Kemble station. Here we parked up and left the car to its fate. The station had a great atmosphere about it, friendly staff, a notice of the ‘station of the year’ award and glorious music (Benjamin Britten) emanating from the café. The man that ran the café told us about the Tunnel House Inn, the projected end of this year’s walk. ‘My local’ he said. ‘See you on Friday’ we called back as we left.

The journey down to Weymouth was faultless. The trains came spot on time and by 2.15pm we were waiting on Weymouth promenade for the once-a-day bus to Abbotsbury. The bus driver went out of his way to get us near to the start on Chesil beach. He went beyond his destination and let us off at his turning point at the beach road. So we only had 0.6mile to get to the start, a wooden walkway over the pebbles at the western end of Chesil beach

The stress just dropped away as we finally got walking. The clouds cleared and the sun struggled to get through as we traversed a glorious section of sheep-cropped hills near the coast. It was so dry underfoot, especially for two northerners with web feet. Moving fast and easily we had only one problem finding the route (around Maiden Newton) before we were passing an evening cricket match and crossing the church yard at Cattistock just as 7pm was chiming, bang on schedule.

We stayed in a lovely old house with a smashing couple. Sam was an OBE so we were in good hands.

Top of beach road: 15.00
Chesil Beach: 15.10
Cattistock 19.05

GPS Reading 13.53 miles in 4.05.36 (on route 12.9ml)
Ascent 2101ft Descent 1932ft

Stayed at Cattistock House, Cattistock, nr Dorchester, Dorset
DT2 0HY. Ate at the Fox and Hounds; I had cod and chips whilst Mike sampled the lamb curry. Puddings were not beyond our capacity. Beers: Dorset Gold (4.5%) and Copper Ale (3.7%) from Palmers Brewery, Bridport, Dorset


Tuesday 25th April 2006

We were down early for breakfast, raring to go. By 8.45am we were on the move (is this a record?). As we climbed up the first few fields, the drizzle got heavy enough to put up the umbrellas. The first section was a bit dreary, over large fields in wet misty conditions, into Yetminster. The route to Knighton was not easy to follow but things rapidly got better as the walking and weather improved. We were chased by frisky bullocks on the descent into Sherbourne. After a quick look round the abbey, we adjourned to a café on the main street for a much needed break. It had been a long morning.

The route left Sherbourne up paths and narrow lanes passed the golf course before dropping through woods to an easy-to-miss exit stile into farm land. The best of the day was still to come however as we passed through Sanford Orcas and up onto Corton Ridge. Views of Cadbury opened up as did the surrounding vista, spoilt only by the aircraft noise from nearby Yeovilton. We had made such good time that we decided to go the long way round Cadbury Castle using the Leland Trail to the west rather than two miles of tarmac. We were in South Cadbury and at the B&B soon after 5pm. Here we left our rucksacks and set off to explore the top of the ancient fort.

We always like to stay close to a pub but we hit the jackpot in South Cadbury. The Verney house is directly opposite the Camelot (ex Red Lion). So after showers and tea and lots of convivial chat with the Julie and Robin, we hopped across the road for a very fine meal. The Verney's had been extolling the quality of their local cheese maker, Montgomery’s, so we broke our usual custom of a ‘pudding’ to end the meal and shared a Montgomery cheeseboard instead.

Stayed at Lower Camelot B&B, South Cadbury, Nr. Yeovil, Somerset, BA22 7HA

Cattistock dep. 08.45
Sherbourne (lunch) arr. 13.30
dep. 14.30
South Cadbury arr. 17.10

GPS Total: 23.5ml in 7.59.24 moving time
Ascent 2373ft Descent 2624ft
Ate at the Camelot. Steak and ale pie all round with the cheeseboard to finish.
Beers: Doombar, from Sharps Brewery in Wadebridge, Cornwall 4%
Golden Arrow, Cottage Brewing in Lovington, Somerset, 4.5%


Wednesday 26th April 2006

It was lovely sitting in the Verney’s conservatory having breakfast and listening to their conversation. Julie gave us each a slice of Montgomery Cheddar and a banana to see us on our way.

The route started with a road section across the A302 (like a motorway) and into North Cadbury. The highlight of the morning was the first view of Castle Cary and the Calvary and living cross planted in hawthorn high on the hillside above the town. We stopped only to read about the old castle foundations before we crossed over a ridge of hills in Bruton, entered down a most delightful wooded descent. Bruton looked a really nice little place although its narrow main street was totally inadequate for the size and amount of traffic. We popped our heads into the courtyard of Sexy’s Hospital before finding a tea shop for a sandwich and drink.

The next section started with a dead straight line, 3.5ml along an old coaching route. This led to a forest ridge where we turned left (north) beneath Alfred’s Tower. We were then a long time on wooded tracks before finally dropping back down into farm land and sunshine for the final few miles into Nunney.

This was the day we met our only other serious walkers. Four ladies were doing a multiple day trip of their own design across the south west. Later in the day, in the woods near Alfred’s Tower, a man strode towards us who had done most of the Macmillan way, but in out and back sections from his car.

We stayed at The Bell House, 2 Horn Street, Nunney, nr Frome, Somerset BA11 4NP. Our host had been born in Zimbabwe and still had family out in Southern Africa. The house had been a near ruin until the last war but had been rebuilt in the 1950’s and was fabulously situated at the heart of the village overlooking the castle. She was selling the house which would no longer be available to Macmillan Way walkers.

After a radox bath, we could just about manage a slow walk around the peaceful ruins of the castle on its moated island (French-style, so the notice told us). We ate in the George, the only poor pub we encountered. The beer was undrinkable. It is not often that I have to resort to red wine after a day’s walk. The food was ordinary, and that’s if you like Italian menus. The village had sadly lost a ‘local’ and it showed.

South Cadbury 09.04
Bruton (lunch) 12.30
Dep 13.15
Nunney arr 17.45

GPS Reading 24.18ml in 8.01.56 moving time plus 45 min lunch stop in Bruton
Ascent 3255ft descent 2987ft


Thursday 27th April 2006

We made a big effort to get up and breakfast early. We had two very long days ahead of us. So we were away from Nunney before 9am and off through the suitably named ‘Murder Combe’. It was really getting quite warm as we crossed Orchardleigh Golf Course with its poorly signed rights of way. But having managed the difficult bit, I made a total hash of the navigation on the next section and almost missed the path towards Beckington and the only section I had been on before. However we soon had the long road section through Rode behind us and I was back in the groove and unwilling to stop at Tellisford when Mike called me back to look at an old mill. It had seemed of little interest as I had passed it but Mike, with his usual nose for the unusual, had asked a builder what was happening and had uncovered a low head hydro scheme (55-60kW). I was soon in my element discussing kilowatts and voltages with the owner, a man who had already invested over £600k into a scheme with a 20-year payback.

All this delayed our entry into Bradford-on-Avon and our lunch. Our very expensive crumpets and cheese were spoilt somewhat by the volume and content of the conversation (monologue) from the next table. A loud woman complained to the whole tea-shop about her unhappy love life and her hatred of all things male. Perhaps her feet were as sore as ours.

The batteries had failed in my GPS so our mileages from now on were depended on the guidebook. It got hillier again as we approached Box and the busy A4. The riverside walk up By Brook turned out to be a drag across untrodden fields of long grass and marsh. By the time that Jill phoned to report my mother’s state of health, ours was not a lot better. Finally however we climbed into the final wood towards Slaughterford where we turned up the hill to our B&B in Biddestone. It was more than the suggested mile off route to Home Farm and our beds for the night. Quick showers (no time to wallow tonight) and we crossed back over the village green to the White Horse and a most welcome Woolly Bully Pie. We slept well.

Nunney dep. 08.49
Bradford-on-Avon arr. 14.30
dep. 15.15
Biddestone arr. 18.50

Estimated mileage 28 miles in 9hrs 15 min plus 45 mins for lunch. Ascent unmeasured.

Stayed at Home Farm, Biddestone, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 7DG.
Ate at the White Horse Inn, Woolly Bully Pie all round followed by some form of tart (real puddings were not a feature of this trip).
Beer was Butcombe Bitter 4.0%


Friday 28th April 2006

We spent a little too long talking to Mrs Smith so it was gone 8.45am when we pulled on our walking shoes for the last time and set off down the long lane leading to Slaughterford and the official route. I clocked 1.3 miles on the GPS before we were able to turn up By Brook and onto Ford and Castle Combe. Briefly stopping in the village to ring Felicity, we then crossed the most delightful of golf courses. Soon we could hear the roar of the M4 but this quickly faded after we had passed under it and into a long field-crossing section. A bench outside Luckington Church proved too tempting and we took our first rest of the day. This was fortuitous because Sherston, my original target for lunch, proved devoid of all cafes and tea-shops (this may have been because street closures forced us to by-pass the main street).

I had never been to Westonbirt before, a failing that we were soon to correct. The owners, who charge substantial entry fees, keep quiet about the right of way traversing the arboretum. So we got a free taster of the wonderful woodland, set out in rolling parkland. After this beautiful section it was out onto the roads once more and thence to dry dusty tracks passed Chavenage House. I was praying for afternoon tea by the time we dropped into Avening but, once again, the route took us away from the shopping area. However the last shop, a post office with a bench outside, proved our salvation. We sat beside the road for 15 minutes eating Belgian buns and doughnuts. This was just the boost we needed to face the final section and we eventually took the welcome turn towards Tarlton and the finish.

We only had one more decision to make. To plod the 2 miles odd down the road to Kemble and the car, or complete our planned route to the Tunnel House Inn and phone a taxi. It was a difficult choice to ask two tired thirsty men to make. We arrived at the Tunnel House Inn at 6.20pm. We walked directly up to the bar and there, downing a lovely looking pint was our friend from the café at Kemble station, just as he said he would be five days previously. He introduced us to the landlord who listened with interest to oure tale of our week. 120 miles in 4 days and 3 hours. We quickly disposed of a pint of Uley Bitter 4% whilst the landlord ordered us a taxi. When this arrived, we wished our new friends au revoir and promised to be back next year to continue our walk north along the Macmillan Way.

The taxi took us to Kemble station where we found the car safe and sound but very dusty. It started first time. So by 7.10pm we were away and heading for the M5 and home. An easy drive saw us in Congleton by 9.30pm. I dropped off Mike and came straight home for a welcome shower and cheese on toast. I felt in relatively good condition and was soon falling asleep dreaming about the logistics of getting from Kemble to Oakham next spring.

Biddestone dep. 08.50
Tunnel House Inn arr. 18.20

9hrs 30mins for 28 miles (estimated).

Macmillan Way (Part 2)

16-20th April 2007

Introduction

In April last year, just weeks before my mother died, Mike and I had completed the southern section of the Macmillan Way, 120 miles from Abbotsbury to the Tunnel House Inn. Donations were sent to the Macmillan Way Association to pass onto to Macmillan Cancer Relief, the nurses from which had supported my mother in those last few months. So it was back to Kemble Station and to the Tunnel House Inn for the continuation of our walk northwards through England.


Monday 16th April 2007: Return to Kemble

Tunnel House Inn, dep. 10.00am
Rendcomb, arr. 1.00pm
Rendcomb, dep. 1.30pm
Bourton-on-the-Water, arr. 5.50pm

There was to be no driving this year. We had organised our start and finish points to have good rail links. Jill took me down to Macclesfield Station to catch the 6.24am train to Tamworth. Mike made a connection at Stoke and met me on the train. The rather complicated travel plan was thrown into chaos when a train had hit a cow and delayed the Tamworth to Cheltenham train. It arrived at Tamworth 25 minutes late jeopardising our chances of catching the Kemble connection at Cheltenham. However the train made good time, gained a few minutes and just sneaked into Cheltenham ahead of our connection time.

So at 9.34am, just as planned, we were back where we had finished a year ago, on Kemble station having a cappuccino with Nick Clarke, the man who runs the coffee bar. We heard all about his motorbike ride to Cape Town and promised to buy his book. Then it was into a taxi and off to the Tunnel House Inn. The taxi driver was not keen to risk the rather bumpy drive so we had an extra few yards before we officially started on the Macmillan Way once more. The weather was getting spectacularly good, cool winds and blue skies. Little did we know that it was to be like this all week and we were to get rather fed up with the unbroken sunshine. The early part was pleasant but surprisingly hilly but we kept up a tidy pace because of the late start time. Eventually we caught our first glimpse of Rendcomb College as we plunged down a steep road into our lunch-stop. The couple in the post office gave us tea from a machine and let us eat our own butties whilst sitting at their outdoor table. The school-children drifting passed us were evidently at the fifth most expensive college in the country.

The afternoon session proved long and hot, especially up the final miles into Cold Aston. However not long after that we crossed a busy main road and dropped passed the biggest field of free range hens into the Windrush valley. Here we turned off our route and on to an old railway and then a stream-side footpath into Bourton-on-the-Water. The B&B was not far from the end of the link path. Even though we got to the pub next door by 7.15pm, they could not cater for us because of a large party, so we wandered into the village and had a quiet meal at the Manse. We were served by a very pleasant young Spanish couple.

Total distance (GPS), 25.10 miles
Moving time, 7 hrs 21m 39s
Average speed, 3.4 mph, Average pace, 17m 35s per mile
Total ascent, 3043 ft, Total descent, 2923 ft

We stayed at Lansdowne Villa Guest House, Lansdowne, Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire, GL54 2AR. We ate at the Manse Hotel; we both had fish and chips and I continued with a Sticky Toffee Pudding.


Tuesday 17th April 2007; The Day of the Tennis Courts

Bourton-on-the-Water, dep. 8.50am
Long Compton, arr. 2.00pm
Long Compton, dep. 2.30pm
Shenington, arr. 5.40pm

Getting an early breakfast and a prompt start, we headed back along the Windrush to the point where we had left the official route the previous evening. The village of Lower Slaughter looked an absolute picture in the morning sunshine, perhaps too perfect. We got off route in the next series of fields and had to head for the River Dikler and follow this round to pick up the correct line once more before crossing the river to reach Hyde Mill. It always seemed to be warmed when we were on tarmac and, by the time we reached Adlestrop, we were glad to get onto grass again. There were tennis courts everywhere. We must have passed at least six gardens that contained well kept courts. The village shop at Adlestrop was closed so we continued ever onwards stopping briefly at the bus shelter to see the old station sign and read Edward Thomas’s famous poem.

We halted again at Chastleton House. The hall itself was closed but next door was a delightful chapel surrounded by a quiet grave yard with an ancient yew tree. By the time we got to our designated lunch stop, Long Compton, it was late. It had been a long morning. Whether it was inaccurate mile markings in the guide book or the unplanned excursions off route, we shall never know but the GPS indicated that we had covered 2 miles further than expected. We sat on a bench near the primary school and ate the last of our supplies, then we moved up to the village store and begged a cup of tea and a cake. These we enjoyed whilst sitting in the kiddies recreation field.

It got even hotter as we embarked on the afternoon session. The highlight of this section was a magnificent track called Ditchedge Lane which rang straight and high above the surrounding countryside. After climbing up and up for what seemed like miles, the loss in height was sharp and we suddenly dropped into Epwell. We were off Mike’s map now. Mike had left one of the four maps at home and we were now totally dependent on the guidebook. It was costly only in Epwell where we took the wrong path out of the village and found ourselves not heading for Shenington at all. Guessing which way we had erred, we turned left at our first road crossing and thank goodness soon picked up the correct path system. Minutes later we were in Shenington. A young couple, out walking their dogs, pointed us towards our destination, a beautiful old farm that was now a huge and elegant house. Mrs Coles made us a pot of tea and we chatted for ages about the farm, her choir and the fact that Mark Elder, conductor of the Halle Orchestra often visited the village.

A hot bath revived our spirits and gave us the energy to walk the 150 yards to the pub. A lovely meal was washed down by some great beer. All this was served by a young lady who turned out to be a professional musician, a French horn player who had actually played with Mark Elder and the Halle. We slept well that night.

We stayed at Top Farm House, Shenington, Banbury OX15 6LZ. Dinner was in the Bell Inn where we both had duck and I again repeated the Stick Toffee Pudding. The beer was Hooky Bitter

Total distance (GPS), 26.23 miles
Moving time, 8 hrs 15m 11s
Average speed, 3.1 mph, Average pace, 18m 52s per mile
Total ascent, 2311 ft, Total descent, 2222 ft


Wednesday 18th April 2007: Edgehill, the Longest Day

Shenington, dep. 8.40am
Chipping Warden, arr. 1.15pm
Chipping Warden, dep. 2.00pm
Weedon, arr. 6.30pm

We had a very big day ahead of us so we ordered an early breakfast and were ready to set of soon after 8.30am.There was an uphill start up a beautiful grassy valley. There was a brief problem with the route up these fields but we soon crested the broad ridge and began a magical walk along the northern edge. The views from Sunrise Hill were breathtaking. Edgehill was rather disappointing as the views were obscured by trees. A poorly kept path led us into Warmington where all we could hear was traffic noise from the nearby M40. It could probably be worse because most of the south lanes were stationary. Another slip with route finding around Warmington Church cost us another few minutes but we eventually sorted out the mistake and were on the road over the motorway.

Farnborough Hall looked delightful in the sunshine, especially in its beautiful parkland setting. A vicious looking dog watched us cross the railway line on our way into Claydon but there were few people around as we walked down the road to the canal. A narrow-boat was in the nearby lock but we hurried on over the fields towards Chipping Warden, our lunch stop.
We sat on a bench near the market cross and eat the delicious sandwiches that Mrs Coles had made us. Then we tottered over the road to the Griffin and ordered a pot of tea.

We now face a very long afternoon. Mike was glad when we got near to Eydon because we were back on his map and not so dependent on the guidebook. Whilst crossing the next series of fields we came across a freshly ploughed section, baked clay turned over into almost unwalkable clods. I fell during this crossing and cit one arm and grazed another. There was much relief when we reached the other side and regained our rhythm. The approach to Canons Ashby was magnificent; much more so than the close-up view. The walking got easier as we found tracks and good field paths over to Farthingstone. In my original schedule for the week’s walk, I had planned to stay here in the quiet village but had had to abandon this when we found that the pub does not provide food mid-week. So even though we were very tired and ready to call it a day, we were faced by an extra four miles into Weedon. But with one last concerted effort, we pressed on passed the lovely church at Church Stowe down towards the railway line; busy with Virgin trains all heading to and from Cheshire, our home. The canal was right beside the railway and this was the end of the official route for the day but not the end of our walking. We still had nearly a mile up the towpath into Weedon and our hotel for the night.

We staggered out onto the A45 not knowing where the hotel was was. A local pointed down to the lights at the A5 junction and in minutes we were checking in to the Globe Hotel and being shown our room overlooking Watling Street. The hotel was run by an Indian couple, although they were actually from Tanzania, Arusha in fact. After showers we went down for a pint but there was no beer, just lager. So we went over the road to the Wheatsheaf and wished we hadn’t. One of those places where all conversation stops when you open the door and five male faces stare at you through a curtain of cigarette smoke. Anyway we got a drink of beer and shot back across the road tempted by the Indian menu chalked on the board. Mike went up to order the curries, only to be told that the Indian food chef had not turned in tonight. So we were back on the bar snacks and I ended up, much later than intended, with Beef and Guinness pie backed up once more with bread and butter pudding.

We stayed in the Globe Hotel, High Street, Weedon, Northants., NN7 4QD

Total distance (GPS), 29.99 miles
Moving time, 9 hrs 8m 45s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 17s per mile
Total ascent, 2244 ft, Total descent, 2504 ft


Thursday 19th April 2007: The B&A Pie Day

Globe at Weedon, dep. 9.00am
Creaton, arr. 1.00pm
Creaton, dep. 1.45pm
George at Great Oxendon, arr. 4.30pm

This was going to be our easy day after the efforts of the day before. So we had a leisurely breakfast and made a 9am start, late for us on these warm days. Back along the canal and passed a family of new borne ducks, we were soon back on route. A careful crossing of the A5 brought us to Flore. The village shop sold sandwiches so we stocked up for later and then set out over a long set of flat fields. We lost the route near Vicarage Farm and ended up climbing some fences to get back to the signs. A long stretch of road took us through the Bringtons and passed Althorp Park. It was getting hot again as the sun blazed down on the shade-less tarmac. Surviving a rather nasty main road, we then got our first view of Holdenby Church, splendid up above us on its hill. I was getting quite ready for lunch as we climbed up the steep road towards Teeton and then steeply down and up into Creaton. We sat on the grass outside the school to eat our sandwiches and then walked to the Post Office to beg a cup of tea. What lovely people ran the shop. They did not normally supply cups of tea but in no time we were sitting on the wall outside drinking tea from proper cups and eating lumps of bread pudding.

This gave us the energy and incentive to brave the afternoon heat and complete a relatively straight-forward section of the walk. This took us passed Cottesbrooke Hall and its splendid parkland all the while on a good track. Then at Maidwell and the road works around the church, we dropped down the fields and onto the old railway line, now the Brampton Valley Way. It was 4 ½ miles along this old line to Great Oxendon with the only features being the two dark and dank tunnels. This has obviously bothered some people because our host for the evening was later telling us that many go over the first tunnel and the second might be taken out of the official route if it is diverted at some time in the future. I thought they were great fun but I would not like to have been alone inside them.

We arrived very early at the George which was locked. However the owner responded to a ring of the bell and we were shown to a lovely newly decorated room in an adjacent building to the pub. We then had the luxury of a leisurely shower and a rest before we wandered down for a few pints and a marvellous meal cooked by a good chef, the owner.

Total distance (GPS), 21.99 miles
Moving time, 6 hrs 46m 32s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 28s per mile
Total ascent, 1396 ft, Total descent, 1187 ft

We stayed at the George, Great Oxendon, Market Harborough, LE16 8NA. We ate at George; I had superb meal of Lamb Shank in a honey sauce followed by Bread and Butter Pudding. Mike went for the B&A option, beef and ale pie followed by blackberry and apple pie. The beer was Batemans XXXB.


Friday 20th April 2007: Saving a Family of Ducks

George, Great Oxendon, dep. 8.45am
Hallaton, arr. 12.45pm
Hallaton, dep. 1.30pm
Oakham Station, arr. 4.40pm

We tried for an early start but a long chat with the hotel owner/chef over breakfast, and then a blister treatment session on my feet meant we were not as quickly away as planned. A few clouds were around for the first time in the week but these soon burnt off and we were backed once more to warm sunshine. We crossed the A6 at the western end of the new Kettering by-pass and the diversions were well signposted around the new roundabout. There was a grand high section leading over towards Weston by Welland with a final descent straight into the village. A long road section was made more interesting when we met Phil Bagshaw, a local LDWA member setting up an event for the following Sunday, an alternative to the London Marathon. He was very chatty but time was pressing, we had a train to catch, so off we set again passed Slawston Hill and over to our lunch stop. The last half mile into Hallaton was not well signed and we were off course to the west before realising our mistake.

However we were soon standing outside the pub wondering were this ‘next door’ tea shop was. It turned out to be next door, in the pub car park no less. What a splendid café. I had a gorgeous brie and bacon sandwich and Mike had a jacket potato; very expensive but we had no other food with us. Leaving the café and reaching the northern edge of the village, we stood entranced by a mother duck and her ball-of-fluff ducklings crossing the road to the village pond. Then along came a car travelling alarmingly fast. Mike, the old softy, stood in the road waving the car to a halt and shepherding the ducks safely to the pond. The driver was not amused; not a smile passed his lips as he slowly drove off.

The next section was along a wide tarmac byway. I felt the end in sight and jogged a bit of downhill; this was easier on my sore feet. We still could not see Oakham as we came through Brooke and onto our final climb. Eventually we crested the ridge and saw the famous church spire. Charlie, a Dalmatian would not leave us as we got toward the final bit of road. Then as we entered Oakham, another dog walker stopped us to enquire about our progress. He had seen us in Brooke a few minutes earlier and was surprised by our rapid arrival. A train halted our progress momentarily at the level crossing, and then we were into the town centre and admiring the parish church. This signified the end of this year’s route and all that remained was to find the station, get the train times and change our clothes. A 30-minute wait for the train was made more bearable by the presence of a micro-brewery next to the station. A pint of Rutland Rouser (4.5%) was quickly dispatched before limping back to the platform and the Birmingham train. Our connection involved a 40 minute stop-over at Nuneaton. The coffee bar was closed but Mike had the brilliant idea of trying the Azda supermarket and sure enough their coffee shop was open. Mugs of cappuccino, with refills, for £1 each.

Felicity met us at Macclesfield Station; Jill fed us with fish pie and thus ended another great week of walking.

Total distance (GPS), 23.25 miles
Moving time, 7 hrs 10m 36s
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 30s per mile
Total ascent, 2160 ft, Total descent, 2176 ft