Pennine Way (Part 3) and Beyond

11-15th April 2011
 
Introduction

Doesn’t time fly? It seems like only yesterday that Mike and I were returning from Haltwhistle after our latest episode of our end-to-end walk. Nine days on the Pennine Way had taken us to Hadrian’s Wall, Cawfield to be specific, and we were now to return to complete the task and then to begin our journey through Scotland. This, we recalled, would be our 12th annual 5-day walking holiday, a series which started at Minehead in April 1998 and which then, year by year with two exceptions, took us round the South West Peninsular path, up the Macmillan Way and Midshires Way to reach the Pennine Way.

Monday 11th April 2011: Backs to the Wall

So it was back to Haltwhistle by train. Felicity drove Mike over to Macclesfield Station, picking me up at the Flower Pot, in time for the first train. With all our connections working to perfection, we were deposited bang on time at Haltwhistle where we sought a taxi. But in vain. It is a sleepy little town where taxis and buses seem at a premium. The AD122 bus along the wall did not start until the following week so we had no alternative but to walk up to Cawfield. We found a delightful path up the Burn Gorge which took us off-road up to the Wall but put two unexpected miles on our day’s schedule.
It had begun to rain by the time we strode out along the Wall, but it was not heavy and coming from behind so it blew us along nicely. The steep descents were slippery in the wet and the sharp climbs told me how unfit I had become. But we were soon passing the famous sycamore and before much longer we arrived at Rapishaw Gap, the point at which the Pennine Way leaves the Wall. We had time for a short rest and quickly ate our sandwiches. It was too cold to hang around so, as soon as we finished eating, it was over the Wall and down onto low and swampy farm land.

Eventually we climbed out of the soggy grassland towards the first of our forests. As we entered Wark Forest, we saw two brightly colours birds of prey on the path in front of us. From the sound of tinkering bells we realised they were not wild. Then a group of walkers crossed our path, calling out to us that they were taking two Harris Hawks for a walk. The birds then flew around the trees above us. They were beautifully coloured. Then it was on towards Wark Burn. We met Phil, a serious looking walker who turned out to be from Buxton Road in my home town of Macclesfield. He was heading south having walked almost 30 miles on his first day from Kirk Yetholm and was set to cover another 30 miles today. At this rate he will be back in Macclesfield before us! We then missed the descent into Wark Burn and spent a few minutes on an unnecessary climb to the east. But not for long; the situation was soon retrieved and we were down, up and over to Hetherington Farm, our accommodation for the night. The Nichols had warned us that they would be at the races so we had a 30 minute wait in their porch before they got home and provided us with tea and biscuits.
Haltwhistle dep.    10.15
Cawfield               11.05
Sandwiches at Rapishaw Gap 13.00-13.20
Hetherington arr   16.50GPS: 16.57 miles in 6hrs 15.43We stayed with Mrs Nichol, Hetherington Farm, Wark, Hexham, Northumberland, NE48 3DR
Tel: 01434 230260

Mr Nichol ran us down to the local pub, the Battlesteads, some 3 miles away in Wark. I had cod, chips and mushy peas followed by bread & butter pudding with (to Mike’s disgust) custard. Tried two beers, a Corby Gold from Cumberland and a Magus from Durham. Then Mrs Nichol came to pick us up and take us home for an early night. It had been a long day.
Tuesday 12th April 2011: Forest and Bog

The day started with a road walk but the sky was bright with fair weather clouds and a biting cold wind. Got a signal on my mobile phone for the first time so I checked in with home, then set off after Mike as he flew along into Bellingham. It is a long time since Mike was walking as well as this. What a pity I was not fit enough to join him.
The route has obviously been changed since our guide and map were published, so we were intrigued to go along the north bank of the river and entered straight into the village square. There was a bakery selling lovely looking sandwiches so we bought our lunch rations including some Bakewell Tart. I topped my cash up at the ATM: it may be some time before we come across a bank. Then it was up the road out of the village and onto the open moors. These looked very beautiful in the morning sunshine.
My introduction to bog walking came early. A polluted stream was running across the path and I did not quite make the jump across. I ended up with one foot/shoe bright yellow with the iron rich mud. Mike had great pleasure in grasping a photo opportunity. We snatched a 20 minute break for our lunch crouched behind a low rock near Padon Hill. Then we set out on a section which would certainly clean the yellow stain off my shoes. It started on the scramble up the wall-side to Brownrigg Head where it became increasingly difficult to keep our feet dry. This did not matter because, on reaching the summit and the plateau beyond, we tramped through some of the boggiest part of the entire Pennine Way. It took what seemed an age to haul our feet through this mire and into Kielder Forest. What a great relief it was when we finally arrived at the main forest track.
From here it was 5½ miles along wide and dusty forestry trails. It was a pleasant surprise to find that much of the forest had been cut down and views to the east were still extensive. Eventually we got down to the river and along its banks towards Byrness village. It is hardly a village; it was more a remote hamlet on a main road. Even the petrol station was closed. But Mrs Jackson was expecting us and soon showing us to our lovely room. An early finish gave me time for a nap before the evening meal but we were still ready for an early night as there was little else to do.
Hetherington    dep. 09.00
Lunch near Ponden Hill   13.13-13.33
Byrness    arr.        16.20

GPS 20.61 mls in 7hrs 01.12

We stayed at the Byrness, Byrness, Otterburn, Northumberland, NE19 1TR
Mrs Jackson   Tel: 01830 520100. We ate in the B&B as there is no pub in Byrness.
Wednesday 13th April 2011: Crossing the Border
It was a cloudy morning with a feel of rain in the air as we had an early breakfast and made an early start up a steep path through the trees. This led to a rocky outcrop and then onto a huge grassy ridge which seemed to stretch in front of us for ever. The next three hours or so were some of the best walking on the entire route, along grassy whaleback ridges with stunning views in all directions. In the cool spring sunshine it was a joy to behold.

There is a surprising amount of Roman connections up here with Chew Green an ancient Roman camp and a focal point for several Roman roads including Dere Street. We followed this ‘Street’ for a couple of miles before bearing off over the high ground. The purest ‘end-to-end’ walkers would head down at this point towards Melrose. But we had unfinished work to attend, the Pennine Way, and would not be back on Dere Street for over 24 hours. 

The ridge started to get boggy and paving slabs were becoming an increasing feature of the lower ground. At one point we met a group of day walkers and took the opportunity of having a photograph taken of the two of us together. Then, as we left this liaison, I lost balance and put my foot off the edge of a slab. I sank at least two feet into the mire and had to haul myself up on a paving stone to get free of the cloying morass. This had to be done quickly because Mike was scrambling to get his camera out again whilst splitting his sides with laughter. I crawled quickly away before the photo shoot. I had had one indignity recorded on this trip already and was not going to expose myself to another.

Windy Gayle had been cloud free for days but, as is the fate of fell walkers, the moment we started our final ascent, the clag came down and the icy wind blew up. So there was little to see from the cairn and we quickly turned northwards and on across the moors. The next section was a featureless tramp over paving stones, broken only by the crossing of Clennell Street, another Roman road. We were searching for a suitable lunch spot, somewhere to get out of this cold wind. Eventually, just as we started the climb to Cairn Hill, we found a peat grough that was deep enough to give us some limited protection. We had a quick bite of Mrs Jackson’s sandwiches and then completed the ascent to the point at which the excursion to the Cheviot leaves the main route. We were in good time and, even though we were now in mist and cloud, we decided to give it a go. Much of the route was paved and we were out to the summit cairn and back within 50 minutes.

Then it was the turn for home and a steep descent. I had in my mind that it was downhill all the way from the Cheviot but this proved anything but true. There in front of us was a monstrous looking climb, the Schill, which was totally unexpected and rather unwelcome at this stage of a long day. From here at least is was downhill all the way and we soon came to the magical point when we stepped over the border fence and into Scotland, a pivotal moment in our walking programme. It got warmer at we dropped out of the wind into the evening sunshine and got into a nice rhythm down the grassy tracks to the farm and then the road to Kirk Yetholm. Pictures were taken at the end of the Pennine Way then we found the Farmhouse easily enough and spent some time with the owner Jon who is an avid Red and had been down to Manchester the night before to see the Chelsea match. We had to excuse ourselves so as to get showers and then down to the pub.

Byrness   dep. 08.13
Lunch near Score Head  13.25-13.45
Kirk Yetholm  arr. 17.35

29 mls (GPS battery ran out)  in 9 hrs

We stayed at The Farmhouse at Yetholm Mill, Main Street, Kirk Yetholm, Kelso, Scottish Borders, TD5 8PE.  Ms M. Bridger  Tel: 01573 420505.  We dined at the Border Hotel on Steak and Ale Pie and Chocolate Pudding. Two more beers were sampled, Pennine Way from Broughton and a local beer called Game Blonde.

Thursday 14th April 2011: Oh Dere, Oh Dere
Breakfast was a cheerful affair with a party of four who were doing St Cuthbert’s Way from a base of the Farmhouse. The package was that they were taken each day to the start and picked up from the finish whilst carrying only day packs. This seemed a good idea as we lifted our heavy sacks once more onto our backs. We had a leisurely late start but this was going to lead to a late finish on what turned out to be quite a tough day.

The start was easy enough with a flat walk out to the foot of Wideopen Hill. Then a steep grassy climb proved quite a challenge but the views from the summit ridge were magnificent. An equally steep descent to the flatlands led us to Morebattle. We had a sandwich from the B&B so we needed nothing from the shop. We set out upon our longest stretch of road walking, a four mile march to Cessford Castle. From here the route seemed to vary from the map and it appeared that, since our last trip down this route, various route changes had been made.

Just before we stopped for lunch ourselves we came across a lady lunching alone beside the path. She was a Dutch lady called Nanda who was walking from Holland to Iona. She had taken to ferry to Newcastle, come along Hadrian’s Wall and then turned up the Pennine Way as we had. She had not gone to Kirk Yetholm but had dropped off the Pennine Way at Clennell Street and stayed overnight in Morebattle.

We eventually broke out onto Dere Street, the Roman road that would take us more directly on our way north. The ancient route disappears under new road bridges and the estate at Monteviot. The woods along the Teviot were full of a flower we did not recognise, smelling rather of wild garlic.

Across the Teviot footbridge we were surprised to see the signpost taking us away from Monteviot Hall. Our last trip some 6 years ago had gone through the grounds. After a stop -start- reverse session, we convince ourselves that this diversion was intentional and set out on a long circumnavigation of the estate which eventually brought us back to the main entrance and to Dere Street.

Back on Dere Street we stopped briefly to chat to a guy who was just setting off on St Cuthbert’s Way but was interested in our End-to-End route as he has done it all in 7 weeks the previous year. He suggested we looked him up on russwalk.co.uk where we found him to be Russell Whitmore from Worcestershire.

It was then a long straight tramp along the Roman road, passed Lilliard’s Tomb. The traffic noise from the nearby road was ceaseless and rather depressing after our days in the wilderness. Eventually we arrived at a small lane and turned away from the main road towards Maxton. My feet were now quite sore from the hard ground and the road walking and it seemed a long way round the loop in the Tweed to get to St Boswell. But we finally came across the golf course and then turned up passed the club house into the village. We though the Old Manse would be near the church and this is where we were heading until we rang the house and found we had turned the wrong way at the entrance to the village. My sore feet did not appreciate retracing our steps. Then it was blister lancing to enable me to hobble to the pub.

Kirk Yetholm   dep. 09.15
Lunch near Crailing  13.45-14.00
St Boswells            arr. 18.15

26 miles 8hr 45mins

We stayed The Old Manse, Main Street, St Boswells, Melrose, Roxburghshire, TD6 0BB

Mrs Hepburn  01835 822047. We dined at the Buccleuch Hotel where I once more resorted to haddock and chips followed by bread & butter pudding and custard (Mike be damned).

Friday 15th April 2011: Along the Tweed
The weather forecast was for improving warmer conditions but these had not arrived when we left St Boswell and we headed back down to the river under grey skies. It gradually perked up as we came back to the road and then made our way under the Eildon Hills. The route gets to the very far end before turning uphill and traversing all the way back. It got warm on the steep climb but we became exposed to the cold wind once on the ridge. The St Cuthbert’s Way markers went missing on the top so we continued to the summit and off the east end. We then were required to take a contour path back to join the main descent which took us on to familiar ground down the fields and down the long set of wooden steps that drop a walker directly into town.

We passed a wine shop in the main street with two external tables for coffee drinkers. We could not see anywhere inside for a refreshment break but the guy at the outside table said that there was a café at the rear, ‘only for locals’. So we had a quick cappuccino and carrot cake before we set off on the final stint, passed the abbey and onto the banks of the Tweed and the Southern Upland Way. A pleasant stroll down the river led us to the tarmacked track of an old railway, now a cycleway leading through a line of light industry and towards Galashiels and the end of our week.

Two fellows in high viz jackets were standing on the trail. I thought they were doing a bird survey but Mike ascertained that they worked for Atkins and were surveying the area with a view to reinstating the railway line. ‘To the airport’ they said but which airport we had no idea. Just before entering the town, Mike decided he was going to change. There was no shelter so in the view of everyone using the cycleway we stripped off and donned the clothes for the trip home.

Through the shopping area we went until we came to the bus station. We sat for half an hour on broken seats waiting for the X95 to Carlisle. This arrived before 2.30pm and, after filling up to capacity, we were heading back to England on our concessionary bus passes. We had ample time for a sandwich and pint outside Carlisle station and then it was three fast trains back to Macclesfield and a meal prepared by the wives. From now on our annual week away will be north of the border.

St Boswell   dep.  09.10

Coffee in Melrose   12.00-12.30

Galashiels    arr.  13.50   

GPS  11.89 mls in 4hrs 21.42

Pennine Way (Part 2)

26-30^th April 2010

Introduction

We needed an early start to achieve our objectives for the first day. Up before 6am, Jill was helping make bacon butties for the drive to Horton. Felicity dropped Mike off at 6.45am and we were soon heading northwards to resume our annual pilgrimage towards Cape Wrath. Last year we interrupted our journey at Horton in Ribblesdale station so this is where we were now returning. Mike had cleared it with the Railway Company for us to leave our car in the station car park. So this became our starting point for the 2010 episode. We were parked up, fed and underway before 9 o’clock.

Monday 26^th April 2010: A Train without a Line

It was a bright but cold morning as we left Horton. Clag hid the tops of the three peaks, robbing us of the best views but, once we had gained height, the Ribblehead viaduct could be seen in the distance. Mike was reasonably familiar with the route, having walked it at night on an LDWA 100. So we did not miss the left turn and were making very good time on the long high tracks towards Hawes. We met a guy carrying his camping gear in a huge high-pack but were moving so much faster that he was soon left far behind. All this was a trip into the unknown to me. I had never before walked in the Pennines north of Ribblesdale.

As we skirted Dodd Fell, great views opened up to our left and the weather skies were clearing as we descended on a long grass slope into Hawes. Here we found a quiet coffee shop and had a pot of tea and our first cakes of the holiday. As we left the village, now in sunshine, we came across an amazing sight. A complete train, steam engine and carriages, sat in the station to our right. We looked down on a double track of full gauge rails. However when I crossed the road a looked for the continuation of the line up the valley, there was nothing. Just an overgrown strip of land through the meadows. That train was going nowhere.

It did not seem worth deviating off route to see Highdraw Falls. Only a dribble of water was coming down the river. So we braced ourselves for the long climb up Great Shunner Fell, four miles of steady ascent. A young couple coming down towards us had there warm cloths on so we knew it was going to be cold on top. We rested briefly at the summit and eat our sandwiches. Then, we set off down a flagged path for the long drop into Swaledale. Thwaite was our first destination and I was surprised that there was a hotel right on-route. My research on accommodation had failed to uncover this. So we carried on up a rather steep climb round to Kisdon farm above Muker. Here we left the Pennine Way and, in glorious evening sunshine, dropped into the beautiful village to find our pre-booked B&B.

Horton in Ribblesdale dep. 08.53

Tea and Cake, Hawes 13.00-13.30

Great Shunner Fell 15.30-15.45

Muker arr. 17.30

GPS: 25.08 miles in 8hrs 15.43

We stayed at Swale Farm, Muker, Richmond, DL11 6QQ; (John & Joyce Kilburn)

Tel: 01748 886479

Dinner was at the Framers Arms where I had fish and chips and Muker Silver Beer from the Yorkshire Dales Brewing Co. (with a quick Golden Sheep from Black Sheep Brewery)

We got talking to a couple who, that very day, had moved up from Oxfordshire.

Tuesday 27^th April 2010: Hannah’s Meadow

On a lovely sunny morning perfect for walking, we retraced our steps up to Kisdon farm high above Swaledale and rejoined the Pennine Way. The route followed a balcony of limestone high above the valley and this slowly descended into woodland before the tiny hamlet of Keld appeared in front of us. Before we reached the village, the route took us over the Swale and up a side valley heading directly north. A long uphill section of bleak moorland took us up to Tan Hill. The door was open so we went inside and ordered mugs of tea. They had no cakes so I thought I was going to miss out on my elevenses until the landlord appeared with two pieces of cheesecake. ‘On the house’ was the only comment as he slung them on the table in front of us. Does life ever get any better than this?

Fully recharged, we stepped out over the lambs at the door and out onto Sleightholme Moor. Never has it been so dry, not in April anyway and we made a swift crossing of this notorious section. Once on the track to Sleightholme Farm it was dusty and hot. At the farm we took the left hand turn over the footbridge and onto a badly marked section of field path. Scrambling up a bank, Mike for some reason set off the wrong way along a stone wall whilst I, after consulting the Wainwright guidebook, sat waiting for his inevitable return. Eventually we were back on track and heading for the A66 where we had a brief rest and ate the remains of our emergency rations.

An underpass took us under this hugely busy road and then we were climbing again onto more featureless moorland. The heather eventually gave out to grass land as we approached the highest point on this section Race Yate. Here we found a young lamb standing alone and quietly at the trop stile. It did not have the strength to protest as Mike carried onto the side of the stile that contained a flock of sheep but no mother was waiting. This lamb would not last the night with motherly sustenance. So when we descended to the Clove Farm, again on an unmarked section of trod that was difficult to follow, Mike knocked on the door. But no-one was in so on we walked on to Baldersdale. At the next farm, Birk Hatt, a man was working in the yard. He listened to our story of the lamb and was moving inside to make a phone call when Mike remarked that Hannah Hawkswell use to live round here. ‘Yes’, said the man, ‘at this very farm. I bought it off her’. As we climbed the next hill we passed Hannah’s Meadow, a field of unimproved grassland that Hannah had managed by age-old techniques. Several rare species of plant are in this field and public access is along a wooden boardwalk.

A lone girl walked passed us on her way south. We were later to learn that she was London banker her had left her city life style and was walking from End to End. Our next top was the last of the day and we were soon striding down a wonderful grassy descent into Teesdale. Across the bridge and into Middleton market place, straight to our digs. Nothing could be easier, so you might think especially as this B&B was the only one to have confirmed our booking in writing. Jenny looked at us blankly. Peter who? She stared at her diary. It was good thing than I had brought the confirmation and our deposit receipt. She was very apologetic. ‘Family problems, I am afraid’ and she offered us the two double rooms for the price of a single and left us to make tea in the attic. There was a book on Hannah Hawkswell on the landing.

Muker dep. 08.53

Morning Tea at Tan Hill 11.15-11.30

Lunch at A66 20 mins

Middleton in Teesdale arr. 17.30

GPS 24.14 mls in 8hrs 01.54

We stayed at Belvedere House, 54 Market Place, Middleton-in-Teesdale, Barnard Castle,

Co. Durham, DL12 0QA (Jenny) Tel: 01833 640884 and ate at the Forresters Arms which is now a rather up-market restaurant with French Chef.

Wednesday 28^th April 2010: A Gem of a Walk

The forecast was that the dry settled weather would be coming to an end today. So it was pleasant to see that the day was starting well enough. It was a cool bright morning as we did our shopping in the Coop. We ambled back over the bridge well stocked with sandwiches and cake. We were in no hurry today. It was to be shorter then either of our days so far. Regaining the Pennine Way we started the day with a pleasant an easy walk up the River Tees, The lower woodlands were ablaze with spring plants, in particular, stands of wood anemones. I had never seen the water falls before and I thought that Low Force was the big one. So I was absolutely bowled over by our first glimpsed of High Force.

The walk then got better and better. The valley opened out into a wide flat strip between rolling hills dotted with white farm houses. Alongside Langdon Beck, a group of walkers had found some of the rare alpine gentians. Eventually the valley narrowed and the grass gave way to ankle-breaking rocks. Suddenly we rounded a corner and there was Cauldron Snout, a majestic cascade over a huge rock fall. We ate our sandwiches sitting on a shelf under the main falls and then started the afternoon session with a scramble up the rocks. The valley continued to climb until we were crossing a flat featureless grassy moor. So flat and featureless that the impact of what came next was staggering.

Suddenly we were standing on the brink of High Cup Nick, a huge symmetrical amphitheatre dropping 1500 ft below us. The chill wind that was focussed up at us added to the drama. We edged round the north side, totally dwarfed by the magnificence of the situation. Then it was a simple and easy descent in the afternoon sunshine down to the western plain and Dufton village. We kept to the official route to get round the village centre to Coatsike and then cut over to the church and back down the road to our bed & breakfast. Surely this is one of the great day walks in England.

We had lots of time for a cup of tea before wandering down to the Stag on a lovely clear evening.

Middleton in Teesdale dep. 09.10

Lunch at Cauldron Snout 13.00-13.30

Dufton arr. 16.55

GPS: 22.06 mls in 7.20.53

We stayed at Coney Garth, Dufton, Appleby, Cumbria, CA16 6DA (Trudy Foster) Tel: 01768 352 582 and ate at the Stag Inn. The Liver & Kidney was lovely, as was the ginger pudding with ice cream.

We met a local man and Dutch partner, both keen bikers. He was an Accredited Energy Auditor so I left my business card.

Thursday 29^th April 2010: No Bearings on Cross Fell

‘No-one has ever gone beyond Alston’, said Trudy as we set off from Dufton. ‘And you can’t take bearings on Cross Fell, because there are no features’. Even so, Mike kept his map and compass handy as we set off up the hill and into the cloud. As luck would have it, after three days of high clouds, the clag was down on the Cross Fell ridge. We needed our first compass bearing to find the summit cairn on Knock Fell. There were no features to take bearings on to get us over to Great Dun Fell. However Mike did us proud with his navigation and, after floundering in deep heather, we dropped straight onto the path ascending towards the aviation buildings. Not that we could see this until we fell across them in the mist. As we left Little Dun Fell the clouds parted for a few seconds and we got our only view. The surface plateau of Cross Fell was back in the clag by the time we got up to the top. Another compass bearing enabled us to pick up a line of small cairns which lead us to the trig point.

Our route off the top was the Wainwright alternative. This left the trig point on a 60 degree bearing and following some cairns toward the top of the scree and then along the rocky edge until a grassy rake was spotted descending through the clag. A fence was then picked up and followed all the way down to the old lead mine where the Corpse Road was joined. This led us all the way to Garrigill. Just before the village, we found a grassy bank to rest on whilst we ate our packed lunches. Then we descended into the South Tyne valley and a delightful riverside path into Alston. The Pennine Way does not go into the town. And neither did we. We still had a few miles to go and the temptation of a tea shop was put aside. It was a surprising good walk above the valley with the narrow guage railway down below.

At Slaggyford we missed the left turn back up towards the old railway and, by the time we had realised our mistake, we were well on our way towards our B&B. So we continued on the road and right into Knarsdale village. The bungalow was next door but one to the pub, ideally placed for two tired and hungry walkers after a tough day on hills and dales.

Dufton dep. 08.35

Lunch above Garrigill 13.40-13.55

Knarsdale arr. 17.40

GPS 26.21 in 8hr 48.55

We stayed at Stonecroft, Knarsdale, Slaggyford, Brampton, Cumbria, CA8 7PB (Les & Margaret Graham) Tel: 01434 382995. Dinner was at the Kirkstyle Inn. I had Steak and Ale Pie and Bread & Butter Pudding. The local beer was finished but the Yates ale was a worthy substitute.

Friday 30^th April 2009: Hitting the Wall

The long forecast rain had arrived. Water ran down the windows as we ate our breakfast and the doorstep was wet as we put on our walking shoes. But the moment we stepped out of the door, the rain stopped and we had our last day without a drop of rain upon us, five dry days to follow our lovely weather of last year. The Pennine Way is being very kind to us. We returned down the road to the point at which we should have left the route on the previous evening then turned north and headed for the Wall. I had not looked forward to this part of the walk. It had looked artificially and bitty on the map but this turned out not to be true. The path was a high level line giving good views over the valley and surrounding hills. The line of the path was good and purposeful with only one point, a left hand traverse near Lambley, which was hard to justify.

As usual, the route got better with height, as did the weather. The climax was a wonderful tramp on a compass bearing across an extensive moor towards Wain Rigg. Here we climbed a wall to bag another trig point and then, in sunshine now, descended into the Carlisle – Newcastle Gap. A short detour to the east took us to another defining point, the crossing of the A69. A golf course was crossed to reach Thirlwall Castle where I was planning to stop at the tea shop that we used many years ago on our Hadrian’s Wall walk. Here tragedy struck. The tea shop was no longer functioning. So we sat briefly under the castle walls and ate our last remaining rations.

Then we had a bus to catch so we made once last effort up the crags that carry some of the best parts of the Roman Wall. There was a café in Walltown Quarry car park but it was too late to stop now. We finally pulled over the last climb and started down the long gentle descent to Burnhead. Here a man cutting the grass stopped his work to tell us about the wonderful B&B he could now offer us. In the sunshine it looked idyllic. We must return with the girls sometime. But it was time to say goodbye to our route for another year. At the Cawfield road we turned for the Milecastle Inn and the bus stop. The AD122 was ten minutes late and we were worried about missing our train in Haltwhistle. But this was running 18 minutes late and we were then in danger of missing our connection in Carlisle. We just had time to grab a cup of coffee and scramble onto the Settle train for the wonderful ride down the spectacular line to Horton. We saw Cross Fell, High Cup Nick and Ais Gill summit before crossing the Ribblehead Viaduct, retracing in 90 minutes a week of hard walking.

The car was safe and sound at Horton Station and after a quick change of clothes we drove home to a meal that Jill had prepared and a clan gathering for the bank holiday weekend. A blissful end to a wonderful walk.

Knarsdale dep. 08.52

Lunch at Thirlwall Castle 12.45-13.00

Cawfield, Milecastle Inn arr. 14.25

GPS 15.17 mls in 5hrs 25.17

Mid-Shires Way (Part 3)

 

8^th May 2009

 

 

Introduction

 

Last year Mike and I had used the Mid-shires Way to get from Market Harborough through the North Midlands. Time had not allowed us to get quite to Buxton. We abandoned the trip at Sparklow some two miles short of Pomeroy. So our April Trek this year was resumed with a return to the Royal Oak and a relatively short day into Edale using the Mid-shires Way to Chelmorton and then the Pennine Bridleway.

 

My own particular association with the Mid-shires Way began in 2007 (Ref. Mid-shires Way Part I). I had taken a train to Princes Risborough and walked to Market Harborough in preparation for the continuation with Mike in 2008 (Mid-shires Way Part II). The first day of our 2009 walk (Ref. Pennine Way Part I) had added the 4 mile section to Chelmorton but I still had unfinished business. There was still 30 miles to go so I needed an early start. There was no early bus to Chelmorton so I left my car in Buxton and took the 7am bus to Pomeroy where it would be at least 32 miles to the finish.

 
 

Friday 8^th May 2009: Early Bird

 
 

The bus driver dropped me at the point where the Mid-shires Way crossed the main Ashbourne road. So I was on-route just after 7.10am on a cold clear morning. I was glad that I had thrown in my fleece. I needed this for the first 3 hours. The wind across the limestone plateau was biting. It seemed a long way back to Chelmorton before I could definitely declare to myself that I was again on new territory. After the initial easy of flattish tracks, the drop into Deep Dale came as a shock. It was a steep slippery descent with a brutish climb out the other side up to King Sterndale. The church was covered in scaffolding and even at this very early hour, work had started. It was not far now into Buxton although the entrance into the town through the caravan site and run down farm is not particularly attractive. I passed the site of the old CEGB management centre as I started down into the town centre.

 
 

Buxton looked most attractive in the early morning sunshine. I was tempted to call into a cafe for a breakfast but I had a big day ahead of me and it was far too soon to indulge myself. The road section was long and boring stretching all the way up Long Hill and the Roman Road. One is almost at White Hall before the road becomes a rough track but then there are good views of Coombs Edge before the big grassy descent into Erewood. Quite unbelievable I crossed the Long Hill road at the very moment that Jo Miles, my LDWA companion of many walks, was cycling passed on her training ride. Then it was down into the Goyt, the river that I was to follow for the rest of the day.

 
 

Off came the fleece as the lower ground gave shelter from the wind. An easy section took me on a high contour into Taxal and Whaley Bridge. I found a good route down passed the dam and through the park into town. Whaley is not famous for its tea shops so I had no temptation as I rounded the canal basin and set off on a long section of tow path. It began to rain, but it only proved a shower. It persuaded me to press on and I ran for a couple of miles to bridge 29 and the turn off. The footbridge over the Goyt was not easy to see but I eventually located it and crossed just as the rain came back with a vengeance. I stood under the railway viaduct for a few moments whilst I donned my waterproofs. I grabbed my butty at the same time and set off into the rain chewing smoked salmon. The Tors are a fabulous section of path and the new millennium bridge is spectacular. Then it was a dreary walk through the pastures and meadows beside the river before the route turned uphill and over to the Fox Inn. The rain was still lashing down as I took the steep and slippery track to Strines Station but the sun came out again as I reached Roman Lakes. I was tempted to turn into the leisure park to see whether the café was open but everything looked dead so I walked on. I was soon back on the canal towpath but not for long. The Maple locks involve a descent by road. Eventually, just below lock 2 a stile to the right took me back onto water meadow and the confluence of the Etherow with the Goyt. The only problem with this section was that just appeared so unnecessary. A short continuation along the canal saves 2 miles and 40 minutes. However I did see something of the Etherow Valley before rejoining the canal for a short section through a narrow cut. A notice caught my eye. ‘Tea shop at Hyde Bank Farm’, right on route. Would it be open? Not only open but popular. A pot of tea and a slice of coffee cake and I came out flying. I ran much of the flat and downhill for the next hour. I needed to because I was falling behind schedule.

 
 

It was a surprising good path right into Vernon Park. Then a long climb up to the museum was followed by a steep descent down to a bridge across the river. The last mile was disappointing, through an industrial estate and under the M60. Before I reached the disused railway I came to a road back into Stockport. I was late and tired and suddenly realised just how far out of town I was. So I abandoned the route and turned for Merseyway and the railway station. As I dashed up the approach, the Buxton train was just pulling out so I had almost half an hour for a coffee in the buffet. Then it was back to Buxton and the car, a drive over Cat and Fiddle and a quick meal before the annual beer festival. Quite a day. But I have got the Mid-shires Way out of my system. Not the greatest route but I have certainly had a tour of the country.

 
 

Pomeroy dep. 07.11

Tea Break Hyde Bank Farm

Stockport Station arr. 16.10

GPS: 33.77 miles in 8hrs 44.36

Pennine Way (Part 1)

16-20^th April 2009

Introduction

Gosh, doesn’t time fly. Almost twelve months to the day from being picked up from last year’s walk, here we were back at Sparklow. Jill, who had rescued us last year, again provided the transport and as she drove away leaving us in the cold and mist, the intervening year just melted away.

So at 9.15am Mike and I resumed our annual pilgrimage, which we later calculated as our 10^th year. This had all begun in the 1990’s at Minehead when we started the SW Peninsula Way. This had later developed into an End-to-End saga. Last year our trek up the Mid-shires Way had ended at Sparklow, our nearest point to home. In planning the route up through the country, the Pennine Way was de rigueur; all we had to do now was get to Edale.

Thursday 16^th April 2009: The Missing Link

It was 9.15am when Jill dropped us in the car park at Sparklow on the High Peak Trail. She drove away into a mist and we put on all our warm gear to protect ourselves from a biting east wind and rain blowing in the air. The first mile and a half was up the High Peak Trail to its end near Pomeroy. Then we crossed the main Ashbourne – Buxton road and set out along lanes and tracks to Chelmorton. At this village, we left the Mid-shires Way, which had been our faithful guide throughout the previous year. Not wanting to lose our theme of following national trails, we quickly transferred up a footpath passed the church onto the Pennine Bridleway. We did not know what to expect with this; was it to be all tracks and roads and sore feet? In fact it was remarkable satisfying. It took us along ancient walled paths, which we had not used before. One particular section, a long curving descent into Monks Dale was particularly attractive. This took us to familiar ground and we were soon having our first lunch break in Hay Dale.

Then it was on to Peak Forest and Mam Nick. We found it hard to follow the Conies Farm route over the moors. We ended up too far east and had to use the track passed Rowter Farm to get back on route. There was a bit of light rain and it remained cold. But it warmed up a bit as we descended into Edale. We went straight to our B&B but there was no-one in so we came back to the cafe at the railway station. I had had good reports of this tea shop from a friend whose eyes, I assume, were more on the waitress than the cake. Still no-one at the B&B so this time we tried the visitor centre and the Nags Head. Mike and I took turns in going back down to the digs until finally, just before 6pm, our lady arrived and let us into our rooms. She had rung home to warn us of the late arrival and Rachel had texted me. But by the time I put my mobile on, we were in Edale and out of network coverage. I was not to get this message until tomorrow lunchtime. We tried the Ramblers for a meal and washed down the steak and ale pie with a few pints of real ale. Then a very early night; we had an early start planned for the morning.

Sparklow dep. 09.15

Lunch in Hay Dale 12.30-12.45

Edale arr. 15.05

GPS: 17.71 miles in 5hrs 31.30

We stayed at Mam Tor House, Edale, Hope Valley, Derbyshire, S33 7ZA

Mrs Caroline Jackson, Tel: 01433 670253

Friday 17^th April 2009: The Mega Day

We breakfasted at 7.30am so that we were ready to move at just after 8am. The clag was still down on the tops as we skirted round to Upper Booth. By the time we reached the top of Jacob’s Ladder we were in mist and it had got very cold. So thick was the mist that I overshot the left turn to Edale Rocks and we were at the Anvil Stone before we realised our error so we compassed across Kinder, passing I assume to the east of Kinder Low. A clough led off in the right direction so I prayed that we were in the upper reaches of Red Brook and plunged down. It was with great relief that we came out on the edge path at the familiar Red Brook crossing. I was now on very familiar ground as we rapidly traversed round the edge and down to Mill Hill. Here the mist began to clear, or at least we were now beneath it.

I had not been looking forward to the next section. Over the years I had battled with Featherbed Moss usually in the dawn light of a High Peak Marathon. It was amazingly transformed. No longer was it a matter of picking your away across a wet and eroded moor. Ahead of us stretched a line of stone flags and on either side the ground had been reseeded or had recovered naturally. We could have had road shoes on for the next four miles. In no time we were crossing the Snake and continuing on the flagstones towards Hern Clough. Thank goodness the Clough was still as I remember it although so much drier. The mist was now clear of the summit and Bleaklow Stones was easy to locate. The path beyond certainly was not. Within seconds we had gone too far along the watershed path and found ourselves having to compass back to the top of Torside Clough. This was just as rugged a descent as I remembered, if not more so. As we came round the edge of the Clough, the east wind caught us as it hit this steep face. It was a relief to get down into Longendale where we crossed the Trans Pennine Trail, then the wall of the dam before lunching on the north side of the reservoir in the hot sunshine.

Switching my mobile on, I was surprised to find two messages awaiting us. I knew that Rachel had texted us yesterday about the late arrival of our Edale hosts, but there was also a message from Eric Landon of Wellcroft House enquiring about our ETA for tonight. So I rang him to give him a progress report. He offered to come up to Standedge to meet us, a very kind and welcome offer. Meanwhile we had the small matter of Black Hill and 12 miles of moorland to traverse. It was very warm as we struggled up to Laddow Rocks but we met the cold east wind again on the edges and this kept us cool for the rest of the crossing. From the top of Crowden Brook a line of flagstones took us to the summit of Black Hill and beyond. Again I marvelled at the change. Instead of the huge black morass of peat that used to surround the trig point, now the plateau was green and vegetated.

The flagstones took away the navigation requirements and dropped us down to the road and another deviation from the original line of the Pennine Way. We were directed right along the road and then down the trail passed Wessenden Reservoir. We were careful to find the correct way across the steep-sided clough and up onto Marsden Moor but then it was an easy few miles to our day’s finish at the car park at Standedge. Here we rang Eric and minutes later were in his car back to the wonderful weaver’s cottage that they own. Pots of tea, biscuits and good conversation soon put the efforts of the day behind us. We had survived and put Kinder, Bleaklow and Black Hill behind us in one day. Our feet were in good nick and we had actually enjoyed the experience. So to Susan’s wonderful meal and another early night (alcohol-free this time!).

We learned that it is Susan’s normal practice to prepare a dinner for PW walkers coming from the south that can be easily re-warmed at such time of the night as they collapse in through the front door (or have to be rescued by Eric’s 4X4 from some desolate bit of blacked-out moor!). To their astonishment, we arrived before the meal was even ready, and told us we had the “record” of their guests coming from Edale.

Edale dep. 08.08

Lunch in Longendale 13.15-13.37

Standedge arr. 17.50

GPS 28.5mls in 9hrs 20.48

We stayed at Wellcroft House, Bleak Hey Nook, Delph, Standedge, Saddleworth, OL3 5LY

Eric and Susan Landon, Tel: 01457 875017

Saturday 18^th April 2009: Travelling Light, Very Light

The day started well enough. We rose early and packed our bags before breakfast. Susan made us a super fry-up and Eric offered to take us back up to the high point of the A62. I fussed about resetting the GPS ready for the day’s walk and had the satellite location operative as we drove back up the hill. So I leapt out of the car at Standedge car park fiddling with the device. The last thing on my mind was by rucksack sitting on Eric’s back seat. I did not remember until he was driving away down the road. My efforts of running after him waving my arms were in vain. My phone, money, everything had disappeared into the distance. Mike collapsed in laughter, took a photo of me, and then dug out his ancient low-tech mobile and his copy of Eric’s phone number. It was a very cold spot to wait, but soon Eric arrived back also with a big smile on his face. My attempt to travel light would fuel Mike’s conversation for the rest of the trip.

Rather later than intended, we set off along the western ridges towards the motorway. A cold east wind was still blowing but the clouds were a bit higher and beginning to burn away, After crossing the M62 footbridge the route turned west and up to Blackstone Edge. The Aiggin stone was found successfully and this pointed us down to the White House. Thus ended a very long and demanding moorland section stretching all the way back to Edale. And to celebrate, the sun came out and the day got a lot hotter. Now we were on flat trails through the reservoirs with the prospect of Stoodley Pike getting slowly nearer. We had never realised that one can access a balcony around the pike but we saw people above us as we approached. So we sought out the stars (pitch black!) and were soon up there with them, having our photo taken to prove it. A long and pleasant descent into the Calder Valley brought us to Callis Bridge and the main road.

Then began a long and arduous climb passed shelves of cottages and hamlets. The way was not obvious so we paused for lunch whilst we consulted maps and guidebooks. The lady whose front wall we were sitting on returned while we ate and assured us that we were still on route. So we continued up over the ridge and down into the delightful Colden Clough. This led to another climb, this time onto a wonderful remote moor that eventually brought us to a road. This took us to Walshaw Reservoir and the path up to Top Withins. Finding another photo opportunity, we continued on and down towards Howarth, turning left down to Ponden before we reached the village. Ponden Guest House looked empty but we finally found Brenda and she made us a pot of tea and then showed us up to our room. We had a good look through her photograph album of the building of Ponden House. The paintings on the walls were staggering. Her ex-husband, she told us, was at Bradford Art College with David Hockney.

She then went out for the evening leaving us to lock up and make our way over to the Old Silent Inn where we had reserved at table. I found the Golden Fleece from Black Sheep very much to my taste and had several refills whilst I tackled my fish and chips. In the very last of the dusk, we made our way slowly but happily back to the digs and a very comfortable night’s sleep.

Standedge dep. 08.29

Lunch in Calderdale 13.15-13.40

Ponden arr. 17.05

We stayed at Ponden House, Stanbury, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD22 0HR.

Brenda Taylor Tel: 01535 644154.

Sunday 19^th April 2009: Our First Tea Shop

It promised to be not such a long day today so we had a slightly later breakfast and a more leisurely preparation for the day’s walk. The weather looked good, with clear skies and a less biting east wind. It was nice to get going and warm up as we went round the end of Ponden reservoir, along the road and then up the long climb of the north side of the valley. We were back on flagstones for the crossing of Ickornshaw Moor then a long gradual decent took us past a farm with dogs, pigs, chickens and geese with tufted crest feathers. Down and down we went passed little wooden cabins all newly creosoted and well kept; we assume these are shooting cabins. Eventually we reached the main road near Cowling and went through a small hamlet and up onto high farmland. Here we were overtaken by a couple of lads out for a run. One was training for the Three Peaks Race the following weekend.

One of the highlights of the route so far was the drop into Lothersdale, with the village laid out below us in the sunshine. It was really getting hot now and pullovers and thermal were stripped off to leave us in singlet shirts for the first time. (Mike still wanted his gloves on!). There followed a marvellous traverse of Pinhaw Beacon where we met an 88-year old fellow who was nobly struggling up to the summit for his morning constitutional. The descent into Thornton was gentle and long and not that easy to follow. We ignored an unmarked footbridge to the right only to have to climb back to it after we found that this was the intended route of the Pennine Way. Two more unsigned fields passed before we picked up signs indicating we were on a National Trail. It was a hot summer’s day in Thornton, with bluebells out and gardens in full bloom. A gentle field system took us down the canal near East Marton and we then had a mile-long tramp along the towpath. It was time for lunch and we sat with our legs dangling over the water eating the lovely butties made for us by Brenda at Ponden. A sign on the next canal bridge announced the presence of a nearby teashop, our first on the entire route so far. So we lengthened our lunch break to do justice to a large pot of tea as we sat in the garden in the sunshine.

Another set of fields led us to a delightful looking village, Gargrave, which had two more tea-shops on route. It was like waiting for a bus; walk 80 miles without a smell of tea and cakes, and then three come at once. A mile beyond Gargrave on the most obvious of fields, I made another off-route excursion. Compassing across fields is not the best practice so Mike whispered some common sense into my ear and we turned sharp left and uphill to find our path. Once reinstated, we quickly descended into the Aire Valley and picked up a pleasant grassy riverside path through Airton to Hanlith. Here we were hailed by an ice-cream seller who was just packing up but would hold fire a few seconds if we wanted a couple of cones. A horse show was packing up around us and it had the feel of the end of a hot summer’s day as everyone was setting off home. We set off up a rather unexpected hill but this gave us a splendid view down to Malham as we approached the end of our day.

The United - Everton semi-final was on the radio as we booked into Beck Hall so we were quickly shown to our room where I was left desperately trying to master the TV ‘on’ switch. By the time I mastered the technology, we were in extra time and the most embarrassing set of penalties United have ever executed. In many ways I was glad to get down to the Lister Arms and Wainwright beer from Thwaites. The roast pork was great and I even had a vase of flowers tipped down my back. What a marvellous and varied day it had been.

Ponden dep. 08.33

Lunch on canal 13.15-14.05

Malham arr. 17.15

GPS 24.04 in 7hr 57.08

We stayed at Beck Hall, Cove Road, Malham, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 4DJ

Alice and Simon Maufe, Tel. 01729 830332

Monday 20^th April 2009: Back on Limestone

What a magnificent morning! Under another cloudless sky we left Malham and climbed the road towards the Cove. As we dropped down the grassy path into the Cove itself, we were the only people in sight. The two of us alone in front of one of the most wonderful sights in the country. The steps up the limestone crag kick-started our metabolisms for the day. I got out my sun hat, and Mike took off his gloves! The sun was beginning to search us out in this vast white landscape. We were soon up at Malham Tarn where, except for one motor scooter, we were once more the only people around. It was an easy walk around the lake and up the grassy valley beyond. Fountains Fell began to dominate the way ahead. The day got really warm as we toiled up to the highest point near two piles of stones. We sat for a moment having a drink and a snack and then trotted down the other side gazing wondrously across at Penyghent. The modern route takes you down to the road and then a long section of tarmac leads up to Dalehead.

The approach to Penyghent was spectacular with a group of walkers spread out like spiders on the ridge above. We were soon up there with them and joined several other parties on the summit. We eat the last of our emergency rations and began our last descent, the long drop into Horton. We had over an hour to wait for the train so we adjourned to the café famous for the 3 Peaks. I could not resist Betty’s Spicy Bread and Butter Pudding, given more body with a blob of ice cream. I changed my clothes in the public toilets and then joined the general exodus towards the station. A Leeds man was extremely interested in our walking exploits and we swapped stories all the way back.

We caught the 15.30 train to Leeds and made a quick connection onto a Manchester train. This left us ahead of schedule and we shocked Jill be arriving at Macclesfield Station 25 minutes before she expected us. But we were very glad of a lift home and a nice cup of tea. Then it was off to dog training for Mike. A super route in super weather. How can we beat that next year?

Malham dep. 08.43

Lunch on Fountains Fell

Horton arr. 14.15

GPS 14.74 in 5hrs 10.00