North Downs Way (Part 1)

Farnham – Hollingbourne   19^th – 23^rd October 2020

Introduction

The year was running out. With so much walking time lost to the Covid virus, or to our reaction to it, the days were shortening and the opportunities were fading for one last long-distance trail before winter. I had had four weeks rest from the adventure in the Yorkshire Dales, half term with the grandchildren was behind me and the clocks were going back at the end of the week. Even through the weather forecast was not good, I packed my sack and made some last-minute hotel bookings, snatched a few hours’ sleep and got up at some ungodly hour to drive south.

The drive was uneventful, passing Birmingham before the Midlands rush hour and not reaching the M25 until after the peak of Home Counties traffic. I turned onto the A21 and took the Sevenoaks by-pass to reach Tonbridge where I had arranged to leave the car in a golf centre close to the town centre. A pleasant walk along the riverside path led to the High Street and the railway station. Three trains, via Redhill, Guildford and the branch line to Farnham, followed the foot of the North Downs. It was a bright sunny morning with the autumn colours resplendent on the slopes of the Surrey Hills. I emerged from Farnham Station exactly on time.


Monday 19th October 2020                Farnham - Guildford

Early Start for Surrey

 

From Farnham Station, a short walk downhill to the A31 brought me to the start of the North Downs Way, a rather monstrous series of rusty metal plates, the design concept of which passed me by. A friendly young woman agreed to take my photograph in front of the ‘Dover 153 miles’ sign, and I was away, first along the main road then into the woods beside a small stream. A right turn at a lovely wooden bench with bee-orchid carvings took me gradually uphill on heavily wooded paths with no views of the surrounding countryside. Just after the route passed the village of Seale, I emerged into sunshine and open fields and here I sat for a moment on a grassy plateau having a bite to eat whilst looking across a shallow valley at the Hog’s Back Ridge. A green wood-pecker laughed and yaffled above me as I continued on easy ground through more woodland. I passed a pack of Duke of Edinburgh school children and then a group of older students from a London College on a training walk for more serious expeditions. 

 

I strode into Puttenham at the very moment the primary school was coming out. The narrow lane was full of people carriers. The narrow pavements were block with parents and children alike and the whole scene was one of organised chaos. I could neither move along the road nor on the pavement, the most dangerous part of the day. I was glad to get out of the village, under the A3 and onto the last hills of the day. A series of farm tracks led into the outskirts of Guildford, emerging near the university. A narrow lane led down to the river/navigation where I said goodbye to the official route and headed along the towpath into the city centre. My hotel was up the High Street and out onto London Road. Reception proudly announced that, for my safety, it was not producing any food.

 

Farnham dep. 12.48, Guildford arr. 17.00

GPS 12.30 miles in 3hrs 59mins 32secs walking time plus a 10-minute break near Seale.

I stayed at the Mandolay Hotel in London Road, Guildford. As there was no food, I went back down the High Street and found a superb Indian Restaurant where I had what proved to be the only classy meal of the entire trip, Goan fish curry (monkfish) with pilau rice and a garlic naan. A couple of pints of draught Cobra went down well.

 

Tuesday 20^th October 2020          Guildford – Reigate Hill

Stepping Stones to Box Hill

 

As there was no breakfast to be had in the hotel, I was out and walking before 9am. I bought some sandwiches at a branch of the Co-op and this was to cover both breakfast and lunch. Hoping to see more of Guildford town centre, I took a different route back to the North Downs way. This proved non-productive as the tow path from St Nicholas Church was closed and I was forced back onto the road and across the footbridge I have used the night before. I was soon back at a beautiful wooden footbridge over the River Wey and was quickly out of town and heading for the Downs. St Martha’s Church was situated in a dramatic setting on a tree-free summit, with views of the Surrey hills to the south.

 

I struggled to find the correct route off the hill but I was able to correct my poor navigation once I hit Guildford Lane. Then a glorious high-level walk over Aldbury Downs where I stopped very briefly for a bacon sandwich, my first food of the day. On White Downs I again lost the route and ended up for a short while on a busy road before getting back on route for the run-in to Ranmoor Common. Here another glorious church greeted me, St Barnabas and its neighbouring school shining in the mid-day sun. A long curving tarmacked track swept through vineyards down passed Westhumble and across the busy A24. Suddenly day trippers were everywhere: I had left to remoteness of the downs behind. I had to wait my turn to cross the River Mole by stepping stones at the foot of Box Hill. Then came the climb, and what a climb! Endless series of steps went up and up with little respite between. At last I broke out of the steep wooded hillside onto the open grass featuring a viewing platform.

 

After stopping briefly for a second sandwich enjoying spectacular views over Dorking, I was soon on my way again for the last section of the day. A complex series of paths traversed the southern edge of the downs and descended into Betchworth village. The super-busy road was made all the harder to cross by a set of temporary traffic lights that ejected endless streams of traffic. Eventually a kind motorist stopped to allow me to cross and continue on my way up the Buckland Hills. Just one more climb got me onto Colley Hill and the increasing noise of traffic on the M25 was noticeable. The view over Reigate opened out as I crossed the grassland towards the Inglis Memorial on the summit plateau of Reigate Hill. I followed directions down the steep grass onto what was called the Shepherd Path. In no time, I was in the outskirts of the town and on a track under the hill that led to my hotel. It had been a very long and hard day made even tougher by the brutal climb of Box Hill.

 

Guildford dep. 08.55, Reigate Hill arr. 17.25 

GPS 23.44 miles in 8hrs 13mins 42secs walking with 2 x 10mins stops to eat my various sandwiches.

I stayed at Reigate Manor Hotel at the foot of Reigate Hill. Having not eaten a great deal during the walk, I managed three courses, i) duck, ii) fricassee chicken and mash & iii) lemon tart. The draught beer was Goose Island IPA (5.9%). That helped me sleep!

 

Wednesday 21^st October 2020          Reigate Hill – Dunton Green
Border Crossing

 

The weather forecast proved accurate. The appalling conditions expected in the south of England had arrived in all their majesty. I left the hotel in drenching rain with mist down to roof level. Reigate Hill was somewhere above but all I could see was a bank of trees disappearing into the clouds. Taking the track under the hill, I retraces my steps up the steep (and now very slippery) path and steps to the Inglis Memorial, where I had left the North Downs Way the evening before. I saw little of the route across Reigate Hill, only coming out of the clouds at a footbridge over the A217 and a National Trust car park where there was a coffee kiosk. After a further mile of dripping woodland, the way descended over a golf course into Merstham. Conditions were such that the only memorable features were a footbridge over the M25 and a fine church. As the rain got heavier, I took a straight suburban road heading east out of the village. A climb to the crest of the downs was so wet that I could hardly keep my feet. It was a relief to drop back down again and take to tarmac.

 

With waterproofs over me and the rucksack, with conditions underfoot deteriorating as the morning progressed, it was impossible to see any views or remember many features on the trail. At one point I struggled to find the correct route through a factory and progress along the clay-covered field trods was painfully slow. A long climb up to Botley Hill was followed by a slippery descent beside a main road. Then a puddle-filled avenue led to a private track and the boundary stone between Surrey and Kent. The rain was beginning to ease but the state of the paths remained an issue. Much later than I had expected, I came to the long grassy descent off the downs towards Sevenoaks. I slowly picked my way downwards, desperately trying not to slip and slide on the wet grass. On reaching the road, I still had 1.5 miles of busy suburban roads to negotiate to reach my hotel on the outskirts of Dunton Green. It had been an epic day, no stops, no views, just survival.

 

Reigate Hill dep. 09.11, Dunton Green arr.17.35

GPS 22.99 in 8hrs 20mins 48secs walking time (no stops), 22 miles on-route.

I stayed in the Donnington Manor Hotel in Dunton Green. My meal was belly pork & mash, with a dessert of apple tart & ice cream. No draught beer so bottles of Bombardier had to suffice.

 

 

Thursday 22^nd October 2020              Dunton Green – Blue Bell Hill

Crossing the Medway

 

Foregoing the pleasure of breakfast for an early (and cheaper) start, I was able to fall out of the hotel door and straight onto the North Downs Way. The ginnel along the side of the hotel  emerged into a system of level fields across to Otford. The first shop was a news-agents. It had no sandwiches so I bought a swiss roll just in case. Lo and behold, there in the high street was a café serving bacon sandwiches. It would have been rude to pass by. Suitably fortified, I strode forth along Station Road, across the railway bridge and up the narrow path that began the climb up to Otford Mount.

 

The path came out at a three-way road junction and some level ground. Just when I was used to walking on the flat, the path turned downhill and lost height to pass below Otford Manor. Then up it went up again to the crest, which was adhered to for a mile or so before it plunged down a seeming interminable set of steps back to the very foot of the downs. Then there was a two-mile track into Wrotham where I crossed over the motorway and into a quiet lane that climbed gently, providing lovely views to the south. Another steep path (with steps) mounted the escarpment slope and passed through woods to the road junction at the Vigo Inn. A very pleasant but popular track led through open woodland of Trosley Country Park and then descended the slippery slope to the foot of the downs yet again. After another mile at valley level, a left turn was the start of an excruciating set of steps to Holly Hill.

 

From here the way got easier, first through Greatpark Wood and then onto a delightful series of woods and fields, in one of which I sat down and ate my swiss roll. This section finished with a steep descent through vineyards and hop fields to Cuxton. Then a climb to Ranscombe Farm picked up the farm access road which was followed into the Medway Valley. Views opening up of the bridges that carry the motorway and high-speed trains over the river. As I crossed the bridge on a cycle path, there a loud bang close by and the police stopped the south-bound carriageway. For a few minutes, I had the bridge to myself traffic free but by the time I reached the other side, the road had been cleared and the traffic roar resumed.

 

Climbing up the long ridge of Nashenden Down, a fit-looking young lady strode towards me, bouncing down the path like a seasoned walker. I was therefore surprised when she enquired about my map and the route I was following. Nusrat said she was relatively new to walking and was really enjoying the experience. I hope I left her suitably enthused with the prospect of lifetime of long-distance trails. The walk up to Blue Bell Hill was straight-forward. My only problem was in finding my way over the three busy dual-carriageways which separated me from my hotel. Resorting to the GPS map on my phone, I was soon entering the impressive lobby of my overnight accommodation.

 

Dunton Green dep. 08.30, Bridgewood Manor arr.17.40

GPS 25.12 in 8hrs 54mins 15secs walking time with a 15min break in a field near Greatpark Wood.

 

I stayed in the Bridgewood Manor Hotel near Walderslade Woods. I was delighted to find that the chef’s special was fish and chips. I was even more impressed that the bar had real ale, my first of the week, Camden Pale Ale at 4.0%. A stick toffee pudding was all that was needed to end a very long but enjoyable day.

 

Friday 23^rd October 2020       Blue Bell Hill – Hillingbourne Station

Up and Down the Downs

 

The guide book seemed to be at odds with the map. The latter showed an easy-looking two legs to Hollingbourne village but the guide book indicated mileages that seemed incompatible. Taking no chances, (I had a train to catch), I rose early and forewent the pleasure of breakfast. Out of the hotel by 8am, I was surprised at how far off-route the hotel had been. It was 1.8 miles back to the Blue Bell Hill viewpoint. The view was semi-hidden by mist drifting up the south slopes of the hill. The sun-drenched fields gradually appeared out of the fret as I strode downhill to the Neolithic stones, Kit Coty’s House.

 

It was fast going to Detling where a huge and complex footbridge crossed a dual-carriageway and dropped me into the village. The exit road was given away by its name, Pilgrims Way. But the route had a sting in the tail. Just after the cricket club, the trail turned up a steep field and onto the wooded slopes of the downs. But it did not cling to this hard-earned height. It descended an endless flight of steps to field level then climbed over bare ridges emanating from the main plateau of the downs. Up and down I went, up steps and down dales. My anticipated walking rate of three miles an hour was unachievable. Time passed swiftly but the miles did not. To be sure of catching the train from Hollingbourne, I had determined to leave the trail at noon. At Broad Street Hill, I said my farewell for the time being to the North Downs Way and descended down the lane and across a field into Broad Street on the Pilgrims Way. Then a long featureless path over a mile-wide ploughed field (I had to resorted to a compass) brought me to the railway and a right of way to the station footbridge. I had twenty minutes to wait for the train, time to relax and cogitate on a much harder day than expected.

 

Bridgewood Hotel dep. 08.04, Hollingbourne Station arr. 12.30

GPS 13.19 miles in 4hrs 31mins 51secs, about 10 miles of which was on-route.

 

Conclusion

 

What seemed on paper to be a complicated rail journey turned out to be a simple and straight-forward affair. My first train whisked me into Maidstone East where the guard pointed out the passageway over the river to Maidstone Barracks Station. From here, a delightful little branch line ran along the river through villages I had never heard of, terminating at Paddock Wood. The last leg to Tonbridge was one stop and seven minutes. I reversed my walking route of Monday morning and found my car safe and sound. I started for home straight away, knowing I had the M25 and M42 to negotiate and I wanted to get home in day-light. A meal was awaiting me and it was lovely to relax with Jill after a week away from home. I had walked 97 miles, 85 miles on route, with only one day of bad weather. I have crossed the Rubicon or was it the Medway and have set up the opportunity for getting round the Wye – Dover – Canterbury loop in the next and hopefully final visit to this national trail.

Settle Loop & Pennine Bridleway (Part 3)

Settle – Kirkby Stephen    16^th - 19^th September 2020

Introduction

I had been waiting a long time for this. I was planning to complete this National Trail much earlier this year but my walking projects for the season got caught up with the Covid pandemic. Eventually the hotels and b&b’s began to reopen and I could plan a trip to conclude the trail that I had started nearly two years ago. My first decision was to find the optimum method for getting to Settle, where I had finished part 2 of my walk some 18 months ago. Rather than use the train for the entire journey, not the most pleasant form of transport at the moment, I drove one Wednesday morning to Kirkby Stephen Station and risked leaving my car for four days in the station car park. I caught the 11.46am train to Settle and was walking by 12.35pm at the start of my third and final section of the Pennine Bridleway.

Wednesday 16^th September 2020    Settle Station - Settle Loop - Settle

Loop the Loop in Settle

I set off from the station, quickly passed the coffee shops and market square to gain the quiet lane to Langcliffe. Here the Malham road climbed steeply up to the start of the Settle Loop, getting some warmth into me on this cloudy and mirky lunchtime. The stony track climbed gently passed a group of shepherds bringing their flocks to lower ground. One young member of the team was controlling a wild horse by throwing stones at it. An older couple emerged from the path from Victoria Cave and, as they showed little enthusiasm for the feature, I was not tempted by a possible detour and I passed quickly on. A good quality track rolled out across bare moorland as the mist cleared and the sun struggled to break through the clouds.

After walking eastwards towards Malham for well over 5 miles, I reached the turning point, a fingerpost pointing south and, rather surprising, pointing uphill. The highpoint of the day was not reached for another mile, at a stage when I felt I should have been well on my way back to Settle. From this view point I could look back over Malham Tarn and then forward to Rye Loaf Hill and the Ribble Valley. As I reached the crest of the steep rocky descent, views down to Stockdale Farm openedup. The track dropped through the limestone layers and on to the farm access road and then on tarmac for a further mile to Lambert Lane. Eventually I came to the point where last year’s route from Long Preston had emerged and I repeated my last year’s finish into the town centre with fine views over Settle as I descended. I went straight through the market square in search of my accommodation which was a few hundred yards to the north. The skies had cleared and I was not to see another cloud for the rest of my trip.

Settle dep. 12.35, Oast Guest House, Settle arr. 16.25

GPS 11.12 miles in 3hrs 50mins 16secs.

I stayed at the Oast Guest House and ate at the Royal Oak where I enjoyed fish, chips and mushy peas followed by apple and mixed berry crumble and ice cream. The beer was Yorkshire Blonde (3.9%) from Ossett Brewery.

 

Thursday 17^th September 2020               Settle – Ribblehead

From Oasts to Ashes

 

The earliest I could get breakfast was 8.30am so I had my bags packed and ready to go before I wandered downstairs for a full English. It was warm and sunny as I set off and I wore only a short-sleeved shirt and shorts as I walked once again through the market square and up passed the museum to where I had left the route-sign on the day before. I followed the signs carefully today as I was now setting out on the official way north. The rising path led out onto grassy hillsides with great views over the town. After two miles or so, I came to the road from Langcliffe village that I had climbed yesterday on my way round the Settle loop. I now continued along the road for half-a-mile and turned left down a tarmacked lane to Winskill. A bridleway took me around the farm and down to Stainforth, a quiet village looking lovely in the sunshine.

 

The busy road was crossed via a tunnel, the entrance to which was hidden in the corner of a car park. More paths and lanes led to Little Stainforth which I hardly touched as the route turned onto a two-mile section of road passed a large quarry. After an age, a grassy path went off across fields towards Bark Houses Farm where a concrete drive ascended towards Feizor Nick. On the grassy descent views opening out towards Austwick and the hills beyond. But first the hamlet of Feizor: a vital part of the route. Here is one of the best cafes in Yorkshire, Elaine’s Tea Shop. And on this glorious day it was a hive of activity. I found a table outside and daubed myself with sun-cream as I awaited my cappuccino and coffee & walnut cake. All too soon it was time to be on my way again. A narrow, walled lane led through some farmland and then passed a small wood before breaking out into the fields in front of the village of Austwick. The signed route did not enter the village but immediately turned away along a road heading northeast.

 

It was really getting hot now. Thwaite Lane was a rough track that went gradually uphill in a straight line to Clapham, but just before the village, an acorn crested sign pointed me northwards and uphill above Ingleborough Cave and Trow Gill. The top gate led out onto a magnificent grassy plateau which extended for almost two miles through high ledges between limestone outcrops. It changed in character when I crossed the main track from Ingleborough to Horton. The ill-defined track descended sharply

down cattle-filled meadows to Selside. Crossing the Horton road, I continued under the railway line and down to the River Ribble. A beautiful new footbridge took me over the river and passed Dale Mire Barn on a farm track led up to the tarmac lane from Horton to High Birkwith. This the end of the day on-route but there was however still some way to go the reach my bed & breakfast. I fell into step with Johnny and his mum who were just finishing their three peaks round. We chatted our way through Nether Lodge and Lodge Hall, finally parting company at the entrance to Ashes Farm, my bed for the night. I had a shower and short rest as I still had a good walk to get to the pub.

 

Settle dep. 09.13, Ashes Farm, Ribblehead arr. 16.40 

GPS 20.61 miles in 7hrs 02mins 30secs walking with 20mins (11.50 - 12.10) in Elaine’s Tea Shop in Feizor.

 

I stayed at Ashes Farm near Ribblehead. It was exactly a mile to the Station Inn where I gorged myself on steak & ale pie with mashed potatoes, then chocolate & orange sponge with sorbet. The beer was Jericho Blonde (3.6%) from Settle Brewery. It was becoming truly dark as I staggered back down the road to the farm.

 

 

Friday 18^th September 2020             Ribblehead – Garsdale Head

Driving Round Knoutberry

 

I was invited to an early breakfast so I was ready to don my boots at 9.15am. The day looked similar to yesterday, blue skies and morning sunshine but with a chilling wind that had blown up overnight. I reversed yesterday’s finish, walking against a steady stream of three-peakers who had obviously had a very early start from Horton. Just above High Birkwith, the Pennine Way joined with the Pennine Bridleway and the two national trails ran passed the lovely bridge at Ling Gill and then in conjunction for nearly five miles. At Cam End, the Dales Way came in and there was a one-mile stretch with three major trails used the same track. Soon after reaching tarmac, the Bridleway took a sharp left turn and dropped westwards towards the main road at Newby Head. I had a twenty-minute break on this descent and then proceeded down to the road and beyond to Newby Head Gate.

 

The wind was becoming stronger as the day went on and I donned a pullover for the climb over Wold

Fell. From the grassy summit plateau, I could see that little height was lost in traversing the headwaters of Artengill Beck. A short ascent up the flanks of Great Knoutberry Hill brought me to a contouring track once called the Driving Road. Magnificent views opened up over Dentdale and its station as I rounded the hill towards the Coal Road which climbed up from the station. I then faced 2½ miles of tarmac, white vans and cyclists along Galloway Gate to the station at Garsdale. From there, a path ran parallel to the railway and under a viaduct to emerge opposite the car park of the Moorcock Inn, my shelter for the night. A classic high-level day of walking.

 

Settle dep. 09.19, Moorcock Inn arr.15.40

GPS 17.43 in 6hrs 08mins 01secs walking time with a 20min break near Newby Head.

 

I stayed in the Moorcock Inn near Garsdale Head and had a meal of game pie & chips and Bakewell tart and custard. I forced down two pints of exceptional Semer Water (4.1%) from Wensleydale Brewery in Leyburn.

 

Saturday 19^th September 2020      Moorcock Inn – Kirkby Stephen Station

Two Big Climbs to Finish

 

I was back in the bar for another full English breakfast. An early start was the order of the day, my last of the trip. The sky was still cloudless but a chilling east wind induced me to wrap up as I crossed farmland and a stream to reach the steep climb to High Dyke. Here I joined the Lady Ann Highway, a route I had done several years before. Then followed five miles of delightful high-level walking, gradually descending into the valley whilst passing Hell Gill and the ‘Water Cut’ sculpture. The biggest surprise was watching a group of vehicles climbing up the track towards me. This turned out to be an off-road safari for 4x4 enthusiasts.

 

I gained the valley road at the Thrang and turned south for half a mile before embarking on my last

big climb, through Hazelgill Farm and up the flanks of Wild Boar Fell. This topped out at High Dolphinsty where I stood chatting for a few minutes with a couple from Stoke. Then a long winding descent on a stony path led down to the official finish of the Pennine Bridleway. It could not have been less inspiring. After 205 miles of wonderful hill country, the route fizzled out into a tarmac farm track and a single lonely weather-beaten fingerpost on the A683. With no feeling of elation or completion, I turned northwards on a four-mile tramp down the main road passing the Fat Lamb and on to Kirkby Stephen Station and my car. 

 

Moorcock Inn dep. 08.59, Kirkby Stephen Station arr. 14.00

GPS 14.37miles in 5hrs 01mins 54secs.

 

Conclusion

 

My car was safe. I jumped straight in and started for home, stopping briefly for diesel in Sedburgh and at Killington Lake services. I was home in 2½ hours and was soon enjoying a cup of tea with my wife, sitting in the afternoon sunshine. My 16th national trail was completed. I had been very lucky squeezing this in during a spell of perfect late-summer weather in between Covid lockdowns. Goodness knows when I will get onto my next long-distance path.

Glyndwr’s Way (Part 2)

Machynlleth - Welshpool   1^st - 4^th Oct 2019

Tuesday 1^st Oct 2019             Machynlleth – Llanbrynmair

Buses and Trains

I had been waiting for weeks for a let up in the weather. Eventually the forecast indicated a 48 hour window in between the rain-bearing weather fronts. The problem was that I required four days to complete the national trail that I had started last year. So I was going to get wet at the beginning or the end, take your pick. The United match on a Monday evening defined the latter option but the continuous rain was to take longer to clear than was first thought. Early on Tuesday, Jill took me in damp conditions over to Wilmslow station for the train to Shrewsbury. Here the problems began. The line onwards into mid-Wales was flooded. My train was cancelled and the next train only went as far as Newtown. From thence it was a bus replacement. So from expecting a late but achievable 16-mile schedule, I was desperately chasing the remains of the day and walking and jogging far faster than I had wanted.

My bus replacement arrived into Machynlleth at 1.10pm, 1½ hours late. I leapt off the coach and pounded passed the clock tower and down the main street. I had five minutes in a café gulping down a cappuccino and vanilla slice before setting off at a march up the long road out of town and across the golf course. The ground was saturated and the road was running with water. As I crossed the first hill it started to rain and it was to continue on and off for most of the day. As the grass got wetter, keeping my feet became an issue and steep descents on muddy paths were a nightmare. I fell several times and was soon covered in mud up my back and over my rucksack from slipping onto my back side. The first difficulty with route finding was in Abercegir where I was several minutes trying to find the exit from the village. The next set of hills was very remote and featureless but I was able to jog on the flat sections of grassland. I briefly wandered off-line at one point but quickly corrected to find the contour route around the head of a valley and onto the start of the descent to Cemmaes Road. The very steep grass fields were thankfully not quite so slippery and I soon got down to the main road with 10 miles behind me and two hours daylight remaining.

I was glad to get off the road again. No pavements and very fast moving traffic alarmed me. After a mile beside the river, the route turned steeply uphill and I was beginning to feel shattered. I had not planned to go so quickly and with such effort. Emergency rations and water were called for and I got going again along a flattish two-mile path that contoured across the hillside. The forest shown on my map had been cleared and the landscape looked dismal. At last, in the fast approaching gloaming, I reached the final ridge where the route turned towards my final destination, running along the last remnants of the plantation and then down steep wet grass where I was once again flying on the seat of my pants. It was dark when I reached the farm at the foot of the hill and pitch black by the time I got to Llanbrynmair. I stopped at the pub to ensure that a meal would be forthcoming, then went over the road to my b&b and had a very quick shower and change of clothes. I was certainly ready for a meal.

Machynlleth dep. 13.09, Llanbrynmair arr. 19.40  

GPS 18.33 miles in 6hrs 24mins 10secs walking time.  

I stayed at Wynnstay House B&B and ate across the road at the Wynnstay Arms. The lovely lady who owns the pub made me a plateful of lamb shank, chips and vegetables. I managed two bottles of Badger Fursty Ferret (4.4%) whilst watching Bayern put seven goals passed to Spurs.

Wednesday 2^nd Oct 2019      Llanbrynmair – Lake Vyrnwy

Too Late for the Rally

What a difference a day makes. The morning was clear and dry and the sun was breaking through as I finished breakfast, packed my rucksack and retraced my steps out of the village. After turning back onto the signed trail, the route crossed several fields climbing steadily. Then suddenly there was a post pointing directly up a very steep grassy ridge. At the top, the view was spectacular in the morning sunshine. The high level traverse of Cerrig y Tan was the highlight of the week. Views to the north and west opened up and the going was good underfoot. It was almost a disappointment to finally come to the end of this magnificent bit of country. The route passed into an extensive plantation and onto wide forest tracks. The last mile was back to wet and slippery grass before I emerged out of the trees and onto a bare and featureless moor, with route posts indicating the presence of a way. A gradual shedding of height brought me to a well-defined farm track and then to a road.

It was almost two miles of tarmac before, at Dolwen Farm, I had to wade along a flooded walled farm-track which climbed gradually uphill onto another desolate moor. A long descent, desperately trying to spot the next post, seemed endless and complicated, weaving as it did across the grain of the hillside. At last I spotted a trod across a field to a farm that featured on my map. I am not at all sure I came in from the correct angle but, at the end of a private drive, I picked up the acorn signs again. Then it was down a few lanes and over a footbridge to emerge onto the main road at Llangadfan. And, glory be, there on the other side of the road was a café, the Cwpan Pinc. I had a lovely slice of coffee & walnut cake with my cappuccino. A gentleman presented me with a set of DVDs from a local man who had motor-cycled round the world. Then it was off into the afternoon section.

Initially the route crossed farmland and the signage disappeared. So I took to the parallel lanes which provided better conditions underfoot. A long uphill series of field brought me to another lane at Penyfford. The footpath opposite, the entrance to Dyfnant Forest, was blocked by a ‘Footpath Closed’ sign. No alternatives or diversions were given so I pressed on into the forest and onto the forest tracks that had obviously just been used as part of the Welsh Rally. At the stage point, workmen were clearing the equipment from the previous day. If I had been a day earlier, I would not have got through; the route of Glyndwr’s Way had been a high speed race track. Thank goodness for the United match that had delayed my passage by a day. I really must follow up on the legality of running an event like this along a national trail without providing an alternative way for walkers. Anyway, I was through and down a stony track that was a raging stream. This led onto the lane that took me to Ddol Cownwy and its large site of mobile homes. Then, just in case I had forgotten my climbing muscles, up went the track over the next hill. I could hear the roar of the water before I saw it. Then there was the Lake Vynrwy Dam beneath me, spilling vast quantities of water in a spectacular waterfall. And beyond, high on the hillside, was the majestic hotel that was my destination. I quickly dropped down to the silent and empty village and crossed the dam to reach the memorial to those who had been involved with its construction. It was a pleasant walk along the side of the lake and up the steep entrance road to the hotel. It had been a superb day’s walking.

Llanbrynmair dep. 09.22, Vyrnwy arr. 17.30 

GPS 20.07 miles in 7hrs 36mins 24secs walking with 30 mins in the café at Llangadfan (14.00-14.30).

I stayed in Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa. I ate in the Brasserie, chicken tikka masala, followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. Some lovely real ales and I enjoyed an awful lot of Old Jailhouse (3.9%) from Monty’s Brewery near Montgomery.

Thursday 3^rd Oct 2019          Lake Vyrnwy – Meifod

Racing the Rain

Leaving the hotel, I slipped and slithered down a woodland path that was a short cut back to the dam of Lake Vrynwy. A cloud of mist and spray hung over the spillway reminiscent of some of the great waterfalls of the world. The day was dry but yesterday’s sunshine had disappeared. I picked up the route again and followed it on tracks and paths downriver to Llanwyddyn. The road south went gradually uphill until a forest road forked to the left. More signs of the rally littered the way. Then a figure-post pointed up a narrow trod between the trees and up a set of, maybe, 100 or more steps. Emerging at last onto a bare hilltop, the view around was stunning. But the way dived immediately back into the forest and down a narrow, steep and slippery path which dropped straight into Pont Llogel. Just before the bridge, a signpost led me through a carpark onto the banks of the River Vrynwy and along the Ann Griffith’s Walk. After a mile of easy walking, the Glyndwr’s Way turned off up a field at the top of which a farm track is followed. A diversion, not particularly well signed, took me round the farm at Pentre. Then it was lanes, fields and open moorland before the gentle drop back into the Vrynwy valley at the village of Dolanog.    

Crossing the river, I walked first along the road and then a wooded path on the south bank of the river. Some parts of this section were interesting, particularly as we passed under a hill into a wooded gorge. Then it was out into fields and flat grassland before I came to a large farm where the route took to its access road. Pontrobert was larger than I expected. It had a school and a bus shelter and a river bridge that was closed for road works. It even had a pub but this was closed as well so I was not to get a refreshment break today. The storm clouds that had been forecast were amassing behind me and I pushed on at an increasingly greater tempo. A short section of farmland led to another farm access lane, this one tarmacked all the way. Just before the main road, the route turned into yet another forest, this one being heavily felled. I was given a lecture on health & safety by a forester at the entrance and then ignored the diversion signs and clambered through the mud and over the logs and brashings and out into the lane into Meifod. Now a few drops of rain began to fall and I increased my pace yet again. I passed the school thinking I might have to run to keep dry but I turned the corner into the village and there was the pub 50 yards up the road. I was home and dry and it was not yet 3.30pm.

So for the first time this week, I had time for a long shower, a much need shave and a good read/rest. Then I slipped down into the bar to taste the local waters and watch my football team in the early kick-off European match. I should do this more often.

Lake Vyrnwy dep. 09.13, Meifod arr. 15.25

GPS 16.26 in 6hrs 11mins 10secs.

I stayed in the Kings Head in Meifod and had fish & chips in the bar whilst watching United on TV and drinking HPA (4.0%) from Wye Valley Brewery. I finished with apple crumble and then retired early to my bedroom to watch KJT win her gold medal.

Friday 4^th Oct 2019   Meifod – Welshpool

A Golfing High

A storm had passed through during the night and it was dry and overcast as I left the hotel. I had got an early start, breakfasting in my damp walking gear so that I was walking soon after 8.30am. This turned out to be an excellent move as I was able to enjoy an excellent morning’s walk free from any time pressures. And I needed that extra time as the ground was saturated once more and fast progress on the slippery ground was impossible. The long ascent out of the valley took a zig-zag through the woods and along quiet lanes. The convoluted excursion ended, after three miles of walking, at a viewpoint immediately above my starting point. Then more rapid progress was made to the south with a complex sequence of farms, fields, woods and lanes. Any sloping land was treacherous to walk over and I skated on sheets of water, grass and mud for the next hour or so. The only let up in concentration was through a caravan site and along a narrow lane around Stonehouse, a large and prosperous looking farm.

There was a sting in the tail. It started in a wood when a set of steps and steep ground had to be climbed to get over a tree-lined hill. This height was lost again as the path slanted down a woodland track and into open fields to a stream. Facing me was then the longest steepest barest field on the entire route. An endless slog up a cut grass slope eventually led through a kissing gate and across a lane. The top was now in sight above a golf course built on the crest of the ridge. A convoluted route around the edge of the course, the golfers obviously not welcoming long-distance walkers, took me up bracken slopes, across bracken-lined footpaths, and then finally up a steep climb to the trig point at Y Golfa.

Then it was downhill all the way, first across hillside, then through woodland and farmland and finally across beautifully kept parkland. This came out at the roundabout at the entrance to Welshpool. I had made good time and could afford a break for lunch. I sought out the Monkey Tree Café, which we had discovered during our summer trip with the grandchildren. A Panini and coffee were quickly consumed and I continued on my way through town, pausing to have photographs taken at the official end to Glyndwr’s Way. The station was a short way beyond and I was soon on a train heading for Shrewsbury and a connection to Wilmslow. Jill was waiting in the sunshine and I was home by late afternoon enjoying a nice cup of tea. I had clocked 66 miles in four days of walking and had completed another national trail.

Meifod dep. 08.40, Welshpool Station arr. 13.35

GPS 11.80 miles in 4hrs 23mins 54secs walking time plus a 30 min (12.55-13.25) break in a café in Welshpool.

Wales Coast Path (Part 4)

Bosherston – Porth Clais (St Davids), 5–10th September 2019

Introduction

This was our fourth year on the Wales Coast Path. It should have happened last year but a stress fracture had prevented Phil from venturing out. But all was well now; we were both fit and ready to go. Our great friend Dot had volunteered to take us over to Wilmslow Station to catch the 10.47 to Haverfordwest. This train duly arrived on time and we found that the station in Haverfordwest was not in the centre of the town. On walking into the centre, we were directed to the bus station from which we were reliably informed, by bus drivers no less, that the bus to Pembroke departed. It was only when this failed to appear that we approached a young lady who walked us around a shopping centre to show us the correct departure point. So, now an hour behind schedule, we took the bus to Pembroke and the flat that we had booked for the next three nights. This turned out to be a splendid apartment above Long Meadow Bakery on the main street. We had time for a meal in the Old Kings Arms, roast belly pork & garlic potatoes followed by apple & blackberry crumble & ice cream, washed down with Bowled Over (4.5 %) from Wadsworth’s, and then turned in after a long day.

Thursday 5^th September 2019          Bosherston – West Angle Bay

A Day on the Ranges

Our flat was perfectly situated. The bus stop for the coastal cruiser was opposite the town hall, no more than a two-minute walk down the street. But we had to be up and ready for the 08.42 morning service. This arrived spot on time. And lo and behold, the driver was Gordon, the guy who had picked us up two years ago from the end of our previous expedition. It was like meeting an old friend as conversation flowed between Gordon and his passengers. Before 9 o’clock, we were back at Bosherston and ready to walk. This time however we did not have heavy packs on. We could travel light for two days, with our kit left in our Pembroke apartment.

We set off towards Broad Haven and the point we had left the coast path in 2017. This time we walked through the lily ponds which looked magical in the morning sunshine. Crossing the beach, we soon gained the car park at Trefalen and our journey round the Welsh coast, after a two year gap, recommenced. We had a brief and wonderful cliff walk around to St Govan’s Chapel, a tiny ruin of a church clinging to the cliff-face, hidden from view down some steep uneven steps. We met a South African couple who were on holiday with their dogs. After climbing back up to the top of the cliffs we were met by a soldier, a red flag and a no entry sign. The Castlemartin ranges were firing and were closed to walkers. The diverted route involved a return by road to Bosherston and then a series of tracks and lanes around the edge of the firing range. The route was waymarked as the Castlemartin Range Trail, an off-road alternative along field paths and grass verges with the sound of gun fire in the distance.

At Merrion we were back on the road that ran as straight as a die passed the camp. At the main entrance were two old WW2 tanks, one a German tank presented by the departing German Panzer Division based here for 35 years. We stuck to the road as far as Castlemartin village where we stopped for a short rest. Then more field paths took us onto the road above Gupton Farm as the dramatic view of Freshwater West unfolded. We had a sumptuous beef burger, smothered in kelpchup, from a mobile kiosk, Café Mor. This gave us added energy to traverse a five-mile section of cliffs to West Angle Bay. We arrived with 15 minutes to spare to catch the bus, driven as always by Gordon, back to Pembroke.

Bosherston dep. 08.58, Trefalen 09.30, West Angle Bay arr. 15.55  

16.97 miles GPS in 6hr 16m 42s walking time plus 40 minutes at Freshwater West at Café Mor.

We ate in the Royal George, Pembroke. I had battered hake, chips & peas followed by jam & coconut sponge & ice cream. The beer was Wainwright (4.1%) from Thwaites.

Friday 6^th September 2019            West Angle Bay – Pembroke Dock

Block Houses and Power Stations

The same bus at the same time with the same driver took us back to West Angle Bay in the morning. A full commentary from Gordon added to the pleasure of the journey. We learnt more about the German Panzer Division based at Castlemartin and the National Trust farm at Gupton. During the night a wind had arisen and when some passengers tried to get off the bus at Freshwater West, they were blown back by the blast. At West Angle, the sand was driving across the car park making walking very unpleasant until we were onto the headland with the wind behind us. We had not expected any refreshments today but we had only been walking for half an hour when there in front of Chapel Bay fort was a ‘café open’ sign leading us into the fort and its museum. This provided us with a surprising and substantial breakfast.

Suitably reinvigorated, we were ready to tackle the long day ahead. The coast path continued around Angle Point before cutting back into Angle village via the Old Point House pub. It took an age to circumnavigate Angle Bay, the view being dominated by the oil refinery ahead. The field path emerged onto a tarmac road which led back to the coast at Popton Fort. From here the refinery was out of sight and hidden except for pipe lines running down to the jetty. The sky was darkening and there was a threat of rain as we turned inland to the delightful old church at Pwllcrochan. A wooded path skirted the power station which is one of the largest gas-fired stations in Europe. A shower of rain made us pause to don waterproofs but these were not worn for long. The village of Hundleton is by-passed by the footpath which loops back to the coast before emerging in Monkton. A mile of urban pavements brought us to the castle at Pembroke and the bridge across the river.

Rather cruelly we marched on passed a waterside café but the end on the day was in sight. A climb through some woods led to another suburb, Pennar, and a very steep road led up to a wonderful viewpoint over Pembroke Dock and its ferry port. A poorly signed section led us steeply down into the town and we walked passed the imposing walls of the fort and on to the Asda supermarket, the end of our day’s walk. A straight road back into the town centre took us to the train station and the adjoining bus stop. It was a ten minute bus ride back to Pembroke Town Hall and our home for the duration.  The weather had cleared and, after our showers, we walked back to the river under a cloudless sky. It was our last night in Pembroke.

West Angle Bay dep. 09.36, Pembroke Dock arr. 16.30

17.77 miles GPS in 6hr 04m 31s moving time plus a 40minute (10.20 –11.00) stop in the café at Chapel Bay Fort.

We ate at the Watermans Arms, Pembroke. Chicken, bacon and mushroom puff with chips, followed by syrup sponge & ice cream. The beer was Landlords (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor

Saturday 7^th September 2019           Pembroke Dock – Dale

Waiting for Low Tide

Our third and final early morning bus ride took us in the opposite direction. The bus back to Pembroke Dock went from in front of Pembroke Castle and soon dropped us at the station. We were in no hurry today because of the tides, so we had a leisurely breakfast in the Hasty Bite café. Then we retraced our steps of yesterday back to Asda and regained the line of the coast path. Just before the Cleddau Bridge, we past the burnt-out buildings that had until recently been a large hotel. Up on the bridge, the path shared the pavement with cyclists, some of which were serious and fast-moving. The sun was out now and it was getting really warm. We reached the north side of the viaduct and were able to slip down the side of the road and onto a narrow woodland path which eventually brought us out into Neyland. This looked as if it had seen better days and we were glad to get through the quiet streets and into Hazelbeach and the short climb passed Llanstadwell church.

A brief rehydration break was called outside the Ferry Inn, a pub in a lovely setting, but which was closed at this early hour. So on we pressed uphill and passed another oil refinery. The oil pipelines leading down to the sea were crossed on enclosed caged walkways. At the end of the industrialised section of coastline, the route turned inland back to the road at Venn Farm and then dropped down to Black Bridge and into Milford Haven. This was a more pleasant place than I had expected with grand houses on the seafront and a bustling town centre of shops, hotels and b&bs. We had lunch at the Bus Stop Cafe, pulled pork panini and cappuccino. Here we studied the tide tables at some length. We had two estuaries to cross this afternoon and could save ourselves long diversions by hitting a time window around low tide.

With high tide at 1pm, I planned to arrive at the first of these crossings at 4pm. It was such an easy walk around the clifftops that we actually arrived at Sandy Haven at 3.45pm, and sure enough the stepping stones and footbridge were underway. But the tide was receding fast and we were able to follow the retreating water’s edge out into the river where submerged structures were becoming visible. It was nearly 5pm before we splashed across through half an inch of water and up onto the western shore. We rang ahead to warn our landlady that we would be late arriving in Dale and we set out on a 5½ mile cliff top walk round to the second of the estuaries. This of course was completely water-free but the direct route took us across an ankle breaking stony beach which took its toll on Phil’s knees. A notice board had warned us that the boardwalks across the stream had been damaged in a storm but a couple on the beach told us that repairs had been affected. So we pressed on and crossed with dry feet to find ourselves a mile or so from Dale village. It was just 7pm as we entered the village and we were relieved to see the Allenbrook name on a gate. We walked up a shaded drive to a wonderful country house in beautiful gardens with peacocks and rare breed hens roaming around: an idyllic place to stay. Elizabeth enquired whether we had made a table reservation at the Griffin. We had not, so she rang through to make us a booking and we showered and changed in record speed time and by 8pm we were eating in a lovely but very busy pub.

Pembroke Dock dep. 09.52, Dale arr. 19.00

19.03miles in 6hrs 48m 02s walking time plus a 40 min lunch stop at the Bus Stop Café in Milford Haven and a 70 min wait for the tide at Sandy Haven (15.45 - 14.55).

We stayed at Allenbrook Country House at Dale and ate at the Griffin Inn. I had cod and chips with pints of Cwrw Haf (4.1%) from Evan Evans Brewery (Llandeilo) and Rev James Original (4.5%) from Brains.

Sunday 8^th September 2019             Dale – Broad Haven

The Cafeless Society

It was a magnificent morning: cool and clear with an almost cloudless sky. Our wonderful host, Elizabeth, cooked us a full Welsh breakfast which we supplemented with toast and coffee. There was to be no coffee shop or beach kiosk today. This was to be one of the longest and remotest sections of the entire week. It started easily enough with a ramble passed the pub and up the access road to the fort and Dale Point. This led to a lovely section of cliff path round headland after headland, West Blockhouse Point and St Anne’s Head. This was a turning point for us. After years of heading west, we would now be making progress northwards and homewards. After six miles we ended up close to our starting point: Dale village was just on our right. A steady climb up a long set of steps led us passed a wartime airfield then passed Marloes Sands and Gateholm Island and onward to the tiny harbour of Martin’s Haven. People were waiting on the jetty for boat trips to Skomer Island.

We were really heading north now, with the entire reach of St Brides Bay laid out before us. St Davids Head, some 30 miles away seemed within touching distance. We saw choughs and ravens throwing themselves around in the breeze. The sun blazed from a blue and cloudless sky and it was exhilarating. After seeing so few people it came as shock to turn round a headland and descent into St Brides, which consisted of little more than a car park and public conveniences. So there was nothing for it but to keep going. Another remote and empty section of cliffs was interrupted by a deep valley, ensuring that our climbing muscles were repeatedly tasked. Suddenly, there was Broad Haven ahead, little white houses brilliant in the sunshine. It looked so close but a man walking a dog (his control of the dog was exemplary) estimated it was at least 3 miles and a good hour away.

The final run in from Borough Head took an age, descending gradually through scrubby woodland. We decided that a mandatory rehydration break would be called at the next bench, so imagine our chagrin when, on pulling out onto a road and carpark, there was a couple ensconced on the only bench. So we descended further and almost reach Little Haven before finding a bench to rest on. All that remained was a set of steps down to the picturesque harbour, and a climb up a steep narrow and very busy lane over the next headland and into Broad Haven. The Anchor Guest House was in pole position on the esplanade. We were both exhausted after a long and demanding day.

Dale dep. 08.45, Broad Haven arr. 17.25

19.37 miles GPS walking time in 8hr 09m 51s walking time plus a couple of short breaks for mandatory hydration.

We stayed at the Anchor Guesthouse and ate at the Galleon just down the road.  I had fish and chips and mushy peas, then pancakes, maple syrup & ice cream. The beer was Brains Original so I switched to a large glass of rioja.

Monday 9^th September 2019            Broad Haven  – Solva

A Short Day of Rain

The forecast was poor. A weather front was coming through West Wales and was due to hang around for most of the day. It had rained heavily during the night but was easing off as we finished our cooked breakfast, chatted to Helen, the owner of the Anchor Guesthouse, and left Broad Haven via the cliff-top path. There were some big ups and downs as we made our way northwards across the edge of low cliffs. A party of ramblers from Herefordshire, mostly women, chattered their way towards us. A steep path took us down to a road and the hotel at Druidston Haven and then of course the inevitable climb took the path over a rollercoaster section to Nolton Haven. It was getting warm now and waterproofs had been shed. Another group from Hereford went past, part of the same party who wanted a longer day’s walk.

The walk over to Newgale was not so taxing and in no time the sands of Newgale were laid out before us. We slowly made our way down to a road which we followed to sea level. Like an oasis in a dessert, there was a café sign in front of us, and like an oasis in a dessert, it soon disappeared behind closed doors.  Onwards down a mile of road we found another café sign, this one pointing into a surfing shop. This was also closed. Two desperate men crawled across the bridge at the end of the beach; it had been two days since we had passed an open café. At last our prayers were answered. The Sands, a superb little coffee shop, was open for business and for Cornish pasties and cappuccinos.

The 5½ mile section to Solva involved two more monumental descents and climbs across narrow valleys, a meeting with a third party from Hereford and a chat with a lone girl who, although travelling with the other three groups, preferred to be alone. It all looked plain sailing as we approached Solva, the upper part of the village seeming enticing close. But there was a sting in the tail. A dramatic drop back to sea level, a crossing of a shingle beach and another steep climb lay between us and our destination. At last we were on a narrow ridge between two valleys, heading inland beside a fjord-like estuary. A gentle descent through the trees provided us with a view of the lovely harbour of Solva. There were three pubs and the second we came to was our accommodation for the night. We arrived early enough for quick showers and time for Phil to try some of the beers in the Ship and for me to find a tea-shop.

Broad Haven dep. 09.30, Solva arr.15.30

11.22 miles in 5hrs 00m 30s walking time plus a 30 min stop at the Sands Café at Newgale for Cornish pasties.

We stayed at the Ship in Solva. We had a quick pint of Gower Gold in the Cambrian before going back to the Harbour Inn for a lamb Rogan josh followed by apple & blackberry tart & ice cream. The beers were pretty undrinkable so I was early onto the wine, this time the pinotage.

Tuesday 10^th September 2019          Solva  - Porth Clais (St Davids)

Pilgrimage Completed

Breakfast was at 8.30am so we were a little late in getting away from Solva and onto the short section of cliffs to St Davids. We had a bus to catch so, on this beautiful morning, I kept us focussed on the matter in hand even during our short stop at St Non’s Bay to take final photographs and chat to a couple from Stockport. With the new chapel, the old ruined church and the statue to the Blessed Virgin, it felt very much like the end of a pilgrimage. But the true finish was yet to come. We pounded round the final headland at Porth Claise and dropped through shrub and gorse to the little beach and car park. We had made it with ten minutes to spare.

At 12.10pm exactly a little bus rolled down the road and disgorged its load of passengers. It then trundled down narrow lanes with grass growing up the middle over to St Justinians. There were so many people waiting to get on that we could have filled two buses so it was a relief when a second bus turned up. We continued up the road towards St Davids and dismounted at the lower entrance to the Cathedral and Bishops Palace. A glorious hour was spent in and around the two buildings which looked resplendent in the sunshine. It truly was a moment to contemplate our walk, nearly 100 miles in six days. It was a rare privilege to end a walk at such a special and magical place.

Solva dep. 09.25, Porth Clais arr.11.58

6.16 miles GPS in 2hrs 24m 14s.

Conclusion

The need to get home was now pressing so, after a quick cup of coffee, we leapt onto the T11 bus to Haverfordwest. We had just enough time for a snack in Costa’s before walking to the station to catch the 15.23 train to Wilmslow. Jill was back from her trip to Canada so was able to collect us from the train and take us home to Macclesfield. Another great adventure had come to an end with 92 miles walked on our 880 mile trip round the Welsh Coast. Only 530 miles to go.