West Highland Way

Fort William – Milngavie,   18^th – 22^nd May 2021

 

Introduction

 

The West Highland Way (WHW) is one of the three remaining national trails that would complete my collection of all nineteen such trails in the UK. I had booked to do it last year but my reservations were all cancelled in the light of the spring 2020 lockdown. I had envisaged an early revival of my plans but another lockdown and late opening of hotels kept me at home until well into May. If I had started a week earlier, I would have had to eat outside and face an 8pm curfew. So, on the very day that hotels could function normally again, I set off north from my daughter’s house after spending a weekend with my grandchildren. The plan was to place my car in Milngavie on Monday 17^th May and to catch the lunchtime train up to Fort William, the northern terminus of the trail. I re-booked all last year’s accommodation based of a five-day north-to-south schedule.

 

After dropping off the car just a few minutes’ walk from Milngavie station, a train to Westerton connected with one to Dumbarton. I was in good time so I wandered into the town centre and sat drinking a cappuccino on a bench overlooking the river. Back at Dumbarton Central, I fell into conversation with a party of walkers from Sheffield who were also for the Fort William train. They had been advised to move the previous night’s hotel booking out of Glasgow to avoid the Tier 3 restrictions following a Covid outbreak. The train was on time and thus began a long gentle ride along Gare Loch, Loch Lomond and over Rannoch Moor, one of the great British train journeys.

 

The Fassifern bed and breakfast was basic but I found a great little pub on the High Street, the Grog & Gruel, which provide me with a wholesome meal of stag pie and chips and a couple of pints of Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm Brewery. I was ready for an early night in preparation for a challenging five-day walk.

 

Tuesday 18^th May 2021                    Fort William – Kinlochleven

Beneath the Ben

 

I had a lovely cooked breakfast before setting off down to the High Street and the start/finish of the WHW. Soon after 9am I was striding back passed the station and Belfort hospital heading for Glen Nevis. It started to drizzle as I passed the original start/finish. I took a selfie in what turned out to be the only rain of the day, in fact, the only rain for more than two days. It was a long and rather dreary walk along Glen Nevis. It was eerily quiet, quite devoid of the normal spring rush of tourists and climbers. I really was one of the first to venture this far north after the lockdowns. The car parks were very sparsely filled, even the largest, Braveheart, which was where I knew I was close to the turn off into the Nevis Forest. A short uphill path led out onto a gravel forest road which climbed for several miles. The clouds had now cleared away and the sun was shining, offering great views back down the glen. At the high point on the track, I diverted for a few yards to visit the iron-aged fort of Dun Deardail.

 

On the south side of the pass, the track descended steeply beside the Allt nan Gleannan. I had all sorts of problems finding the high-level route to Blar a’Chaorainn. It was only later that I realised that the WHW is basically route-signed for south to north walkers and is not so easy to follow in the reverse direction. I made for the Old Military Road to avoid having to clamber back up the mountain-side and was soon back on route and gently ascending into a forbidding-looking mountain valley. As I turned eastwards into the valley of the Allt na Lairige Moire, I was amazed to find myself on a level track that passed straight through the mountains with the ridges of the Mamores soaring up to my left. I passed ruined farms in this remotest of situations and the traverse went without very much effort and far more quickly than I expected.

 

I fell into step with a couple who were, like me, heading for accommodation in Kinlochleven just a few miles ahead. This pair lived in Ayr, not far from my daughter, and their grandson played for the same junior football team as did mine. This was not to be the only incredible coincidence of the trip. Great views of Kinlochleven were to be had as we dropped down a tricky little descent on a rocky path into the village. On my way passed the pub, I called in to reserve a table for the evening’s meal then I continued to the far end of the village to gain my accommodation.

 

 

Fort William dep. 09.08, Kinlochleven arr. 15.45

GPS 17.61 miles in 6hrs 36mins 11secs walking time plus a 10-minute in the glen of Allt Na Lairige Moire.

I stayed at Tigh Na Cheo in Garbhein Road, a little out of town but I was pointed towards a short cut down some steps to speed me back to the Tailwinds Inn where I enjoyed fish and chips followed by stick toffee pudding. The beer was the ubiquitous Belhaven Best.

 

Wednesday 19^th May 2021           Kinlochleven – Bridge of Orchy

The Staircase to Glen Coe

 

An 8am breakfast set me up for the early start that I felt was required to comfortably complete a 21-mile route. Stopping briefly at the Co-op to buy a sandwich and doughnuts, I return to the bridge at the centre of the village and walked up the south bank of the river. In some ways the start of the day was similar to yesterday’s, with a road and valley section followed by a climb up to a forestry track. This track wound around the hillside for three miles to gain the top of the pipeline feeding the hydro-electric power plant below. It was a relief to leave this track behind and take to an undulating footpath across the open moorland. After several stream crossings the path reached its highest point, a magnificent viewpoint looking over Glen Coe and Rannoch Moor. After several hasty photographs, I plunged into the long and spectacular descent of the Devil’s Staircase.

 

It was really warm in the shelter of the Glencoe mountains. I was glad I was wearing my sun hat, something I had not bothered to do yesterday leading to unexpected sunburn. Most day walkers were in shorts but I was stuck with the winter gear that I had pre-packed. The road in the valley floor was very busy and I was glad that an off-road path was provide across the bleak flat moor. Passing below the Buachaille, I asked two girls to take my photo in front of this iconic mountain. It was many years since I had ice climbed on this and the surrounding peaks. The view ahead opened out and the Kings House and ski centre were clearly visible some miles ahead. After a brief encounter with a Northern Irish man wearing a small teddy bear, I scooted across Rannoch Moor and out onto the old road and the famous Kings House Hotel. Here I sat in the sun eating a sausage roll and quaffing a superb pint of real ale.

 

I dragged myself away from this perfect setting and walked further along the old road until it crossed the line of the new arterial highway. I was tempted by another café at the ski centre but the route veered away to the south onto Telford’s road across the Black Mount, a glorious nine miles running parallel to the old military road of the previous century. Stopping briefly near Ba Bridge for an energy bar, the generally downward gradient brought me to Forest Lodge and the hamlet at Inverornan. A parties of walkers sat in the sun outside the country hotel, relaxing after a long day. But I still had a further 2 miles over a low ridge, before I could look down on my accommodation for the night. A steep woodland path descended to Bridge of Orchy. The white-painted hotel and surrounding cottages looked a picture astride the road below. At last, rather later than I had envisaged, I crossed the bridge and checked in at the rather imposing hotel

 

Kinlochleven dep. 08.43, Bridge of Orchy arr. 17.21 

GPS 21.59 miles in 8hrs 07mins 04secs walking with 25 mins at Kings House for a sausage roll and pint of Red Revival (4.3%) from Glen Spean Brewery, then 10 mins near Ba Bridge.

I stayed at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. My meal was fish, chips and mushy peas. The draught beer was Bitter & Twisted (3.8%) from Harviestoun followed by a Schiehallion IPA on keg (4.8%).

 

Thursday 20^th May 2021                  Bridge of Orchy – Inverarnan

St Fillan’s Priory

 

For the first time since Glen Nevis, the sky had clouded over. As there was no sun today, the sun-hat was stowed in the rucksack. But the rain was holding off as I left the hotel and walked up to the station and under the railway line. A wide track ran parallel to the railway, downhill for much of the way with magnificent Munros to the left. The railway crossed the walking route and set off on a wonderfully winding contour over a series of viaducts. The track, railway and main road came together at the head of a low pass. I almost missed the turn under the railway, the route not being signed at this point for the north-south walker. A steady stream of walkers passed me heading north and many commented that I was the only through-walker on the route going the ‘wrong way’. After a rocky section climbing up the hillside, I dropped onto what must have been an old road running beside the railway directly into Tyndrum.

 

It was too early in the day to a stop so I forwent the fleshpots of Tyndrum and continued on a poorly signed path around the edge of town. I was momentarily lost around Tyndrum Lower Station but got myself back on what I assumed was the correct route through a featureless heathland of regenerating woodland. After a mile or so of narrow paths, I emerged onto a wide track at a WHW finger-post. I followed this track to a bridge across a small stream and came upon a set of way-marker posts from a different direction. Less confusingly, there was only one signed route from this point so I was able to proceed with more confidence. Crossing a busy road on a northerly loop through some farmland chosen, I assume, to keep the walker off the road, I stopped at St Fillan’s Priory, an atmospheric ruin in a copse of trees. As I photographed the adjoining graveyard a drizzle began to fall, my first rain since the very start of my trip.

Back on the south side of the road, the WHW clambered up steep paths through a pine forest. The climbing seemed to go on forever. After three miles or more in an easterly direction, the ridge was crested and began to descend out of the forest. This tiring section ended with a steep drop to Crianlarich Crossroads, a major junction of footpaths. A superb path then contoured across the open hillside, eventually descending to the road and under the railway. The route down Glen Falloch was relatively straight forward, although a foot-bridge was missing at one point necessitating a diversion up and down the steep-sided valley. Views of the Falloch Falls were hard to obtain, so I hurried on to Beinglas campsite where I left the official route and sought my accommodation at a pub on the nearby road.

 

Bridge of Orchy dep. 08.40, Inverarnan arr.16.15

GPS 20.66 in 7hrs 36mins 13secs walking time (no stops), 20 miles on-route.

I stayed in the Drovers Inn, my bedroom being across the road in a rectangle of out-buildings.  My meal in the bar was chicken and veg, very disappointingly cooked and presented. The beer was Deucars IPA (4.4%). I retired to bed without a pudding.

 

 

Friday 21^st May 2021                        Inverarnan – Balmaha

Beside the Loch

Breakfast times were either 7.30 or 8.30am. The earlier start was an attractive option so I slipped quietly out of my room and crossed over the main road to the pub on what the locals would call ‘a dreich morning’, drizzle from a heavily laden sky and little or no wind. Amazingly the couple in front of me were Peter & Joyce, members of my local running club who live less than half a mile away from me. We chatted long and hard through the full Scottish fry-up. They were on a 7 or 8 day south-to-north schedule a more gentle pace than mine. They warned me of the difficulty in keeping up a fast pace through the rocky sections on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Bearing this in mind, I made my excuses, retired to my room and quickly packed my rucksack.

 

I was well on my way through the Beinglas camp site and back onto the WHW before 8.30am. Progress was fine at first. The rain had stopped and the path undulated through pleasant grassy fields. Then suddenly the character of the route changed. The steep hillside ahead dropping straight into the water and was traversed through a jungle of tree roots and rocky scrambles, mostly on an uncomfortable gradient. At one point near Rob Roy’s Cave, I found myself climbing huge boulders high above the water. The time seemed to melt away and the 2.5 mile an hour schedule that I had set myself seemed more and more impossible. But all things, good or bad, come to an end and the underfoot conditions gradually improved, the pace increased, and I exchanged words with two girls who had been swimming in the loch. Suddenly, there was Inversnaid in all its splendour. It was much bigger than I expected, a fine building operating as a hotel in its own grounds.

 

It was still too early in the day to have a refreshment break so I pressed on along a less taxing part of the loch-side path. Even this had its moments though as rocky ups and downs had to be negotiated. There was a route choice at one point and I went for what looked the easier and faster option, a wide track that climbed high above the loch. This re-joined the lakeside path near Ptarmigan Lodge from whence a good track led to Rowardennan, a peaceful little hamlet with lovely views along Loch Lomond. The weather was fast improving and the day was getting warm. Dehydration was becoming an issue that I had not thought possible at breakfast-time. I was much happier with my pace on this section but the efforts of the morning and the increasing heat were taking their toll. I was seriously tired when I arrived at Rowardennan Hotel. Joy of joys, the Clansman Bar was open for business and I was certainly ready for a bite to eat and a chance to slake my thirst. A snack and drink disappeared in record time and I was thankfully then to be able to face the last leg of day.

 

The route to Balmaha started through open forests, native trees rather than pine plantations. It was not short of a few climbs and I was approaching my pre-stop level of exhaustion as I reached the road that was to take me to Balmaha. The daily mileage was adding up to more than the guidebook had indicated and, even though I missed out a gratuitous loop round a headland, I clocked 1.5 miles further than expected. It may have been ½ mile back onto route in the morning but otherwise I added nothing to the official route so I suspect that the 21-mile distance given in the guidebooks was at least a mile under actuality. I was very relieved to reach the lovely harbour at Balmaha and see the huge oak tree shading my target for the night. The hotel behind the tree was worth all the effort.

 

Inverarnan dep. 08.19, Balmaha arr.17.40

GPS 22.48 in 8hrs 46mins 27secs walking time with a 35min (14.30-15.05) stop in the Clansman Bar of the Rowardennan Hotel for a tuna & mayo wrap and 1½ pints of Belhaven Best.

 

I stayed in the Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha. I was delighted with their recommendation of the lasagne and really enjoyed a couple of pints of Conich 4 lager (4.0%) from Williams Bros. of Alloa. An apple pie and ice cream supplied a nice conclusion to a lovely meal.  I retired early to my attic room in the roof of an outbuilding with a great view over the loch. I loved this inn.

-

Saturday 22^nd May 2021                  Balmaha  – Milngavie

Conich Hill and the Highland Boundary

 

The morning was a beauty. The view from my roof window over the loch filled me with enthusiasm for this, my last day. I packed before breakfast and was able to enjoy a leisurely ‘full Scottish’. I called at the village shop for my sandwich lunch. I was back under a sun hat as I crossed the car park opposite the pub and located the start of the good quality gravel path up  Conich Hill. Magnificent views over Loch Lomond opened up as I gained height. There were several very steep sections to struggle up but I finally pulled myself onto the summit and asked a couple to kindly photograph me at this amazing viewpoint. I was standing on the Highland Boundary Fault Line, the line that divides the volcanic rocks of the highland mountains from the softer soils of the lowlands. Conich Hill and the line of islands across the loch illustrated this perfectly. Then I turned my back of this corner of paradise and descended to the east.

 

A wide track, mainly flat, threaded its way for four miles or so through Garadhban Forest leading eventually out onto a very busy road with fast moving traffic, A path running behind a hedge kept the walker away from danger; then crossed the road about a mile before Drymen. A field-path led to a long section of quiet lane where I sat briefly on a bench to eat a snack bar. The lane brought me to the course of an old railway. Here I turned south along the disused line and towards the prominent peak of Dumgoyne at the end of the Campsie Hills. The whisky distillery at its foot was an old friend, having terminated one of my LEJOG sections at this point several years earlier.

 

The line of the railway was blocked by the largest terminal moraine I have ever seen, a conical lump across the gap in the hills. A good track led round the impasse and out onto a road for a short while before turning into a beautiful track alongside Craigallian Loch. The finish was in sight and the number of walkers noticeably increased. I could hear children playing in the surrounding woods and the wildness melted away to parkland and civilisation. Suddenly I was there, at a huge notice board describing the West Highland Way. A lady who took my photograph pointed out the way into the main street in Milngavie shopping centre. Here was a monument to the route, the southern terminus. After more photographs, I retreated out of town to retrieve my car.

 

Balmaha dep. 09.02, Milngavie arr. 16.20

GPS 19.49 miles in 7hrs 07mins 48secs..

 

Conclusion

 

I had completed my 17^th National Trail, my 3^rd in Scotland. I had amazing luck with the weather, the north getting much better weather than back home which was having the wettest May for many a year. I had walked, with the off-route excursions and conservative mileages, a total of 102 miles which, for a five-day trip, I was pretty satisfied with. All I had to do now was find the Clyde Tunnel and I could head south to see family and friends.

North Downs Way (Part 1)

Farnham – Hollingbourne   19^th – 23^rd October 2020

Introduction

The year was running out. With so much walking time lost to the Covid virus, or to our reaction to it, the days were shortening and the opportunities were fading for one last long-distance trail before winter. I had had four weeks rest from the adventure in the Yorkshire Dales, half term with the grandchildren was behind me and the clocks were going back at the end of the week. Even through the weather forecast was not good, I packed my sack and made some last-minute hotel bookings, snatched a few hours’ sleep and got up at some ungodly hour to drive south.

The drive was uneventful, passing Birmingham before the Midlands rush hour and not reaching the M25 until after the peak of Home Counties traffic. I turned onto the A21 and took the Sevenoaks by-pass to reach Tonbridge where I had arranged to leave the car in a golf centre close to the town centre. A pleasant walk along the riverside path led to the High Street and the railway station. Three trains, via Redhill, Guildford and the branch line to Farnham, followed the foot of the North Downs. It was a bright sunny morning with the autumn colours resplendent on the slopes of the Surrey Hills. I emerged from Farnham Station exactly on time.


Monday 19th October 2020                Farnham - Guildford

Early Start for Surrey

 

From Farnham Station, a short walk downhill to the A31 brought me to the start of the North Downs Way, a rather monstrous series of rusty metal plates, the design concept of which passed me by. A friendly young woman agreed to take my photograph in front of the ‘Dover 153 miles’ sign, and I was away, first along the main road then into the woods beside a small stream. A right turn at a lovely wooden bench with bee-orchid carvings took me gradually uphill on heavily wooded paths with no views of the surrounding countryside. Just after the route passed the village of Seale, I emerged into sunshine and open fields and here I sat for a moment on a grassy plateau having a bite to eat whilst looking across a shallow valley at the Hog’s Back Ridge. A green wood-pecker laughed and yaffled above me as I continued on easy ground through more woodland. I passed a pack of Duke of Edinburgh school children and then a group of older students from a London College on a training walk for more serious expeditions. 

 

I strode into Puttenham at the very moment the primary school was coming out. The narrow lane was full of people carriers. The narrow pavements were block with parents and children alike and the whole scene was one of organised chaos. I could neither move along the road nor on the pavement, the most dangerous part of the day. I was glad to get out of the village, under the A3 and onto the last hills of the day. A series of farm tracks led into the outskirts of Guildford, emerging near the university. A narrow lane led down to the river/navigation where I said goodbye to the official route and headed along the towpath into the city centre. My hotel was up the High Street and out onto London Road. Reception proudly announced that, for my safety, it was not producing any food.

 

Farnham dep. 12.48, Guildford arr. 17.00

GPS 12.30 miles in 3hrs 59mins 32secs walking time plus a 10-minute break near Seale.

I stayed at the Mandolay Hotel in London Road, Guildford. As there was no food, I went back down the High Street and found a superb Indian Restaurant where I had what proved to be the only classy meal of the entire trip, Goan fish curry (monkfish) with pilau rice and a garlic naan. A couple of pints of draught Cobra went down well.

 

Tuesday 20^th October 2020          Guildford – Reigate Hill

Stepping Stones to Box Hill

 

As there was no breakfast to be had in the hotel, I was out and walking before 9am. I bought some sandwiches at a branch of the Co-op and this was to cover both breakfast and lunch. Hoping to see more of Guildford town centre, I took a different route back to the North Downs way. This proved non-productive as the tow path from St Nicholas Church was closed and I was forced back onto the road and across the footbridge I have used the night before. I was soon back at a beautiful wooden footbridge over the River Wey and was quickly out of town and heading for the Downs. St Martha’s Church was situated in a dramatic setting on a tree-free summit, with views of the Surrey hills to the south.

 

I struggled to find the correct route off the hill but I was able to correct my poor navigation once I hit Guildford Lane. Then a glorious high-level walk over Aldbury Downs where I stopped very briefly for a bacon sandwich, my first food of the day. On White Downs I again lost the route and ended up for a short while on a busy road before getting back on route for the run-in to Ranmoor Common. Here another glorious church greeted me, St Barnabas and its neighbouring school shining in the mid-day sun. A long curving tarmacked track swept through vineyards down passed Westhumble and across the busy A24. Suddenly day trippers were everywhere: I had left to remoteness of the downs behind. I had to wait my turn to cross the River Mole by stepping stones at the foot of Box Hill. Then came the climb, and what a climb! Endless series of steps went up and up with little respite between. At last I broke out of the steep wooded hillside onto the open grass featuring a viewing platform.

 

After stopping briefly for a second sandwich enjoying spectacular views over Dorking, I was soon on my way again for the last section of the day. A complex series of paths traversed the southern edge of the downs and descended into Betchworth village. The super-busy road was made all the harder to cross by a set of temporary traffic lights that ejected endless streams of traffic. Eventually a kind motorist stopped to allow me to cross and continue on my way up the Buckland Hills. Just one more climb got me onto Colley Hill and the increasing noise of traffic on the M25 was noticeable. The view over Reigate opened out as I crossed the grassland towards the Inglis Memorial on the summit plateau of Reigate Hill. I followed directions down the steep grass onto what was called the Shepherd Path. In no time, I was in the outskirts of the town and on a track under the hill that led to my hotel. It had been a very long and hard day made even tougher by the brutal climb of Box Hill.

 

Guildford dep. 08.55, Reigate Hill arr. 17.25 

GPS 23.44 miles in 8hrs 13mins 42secs walking with 2 x 10mins stops to eat my various sandwiches.

I stayed at Reigate Manor Hotel at the foot of Reigate Hill. Having not eaten a great deal during the walk, I managed three courses, i) duck, ii) fricassee chicken and mash & iii) lemon tart. The draught beer was Goose Island IPA (5.9%). That helped me sleep!

 

Wednesday 21^st October 2020          Reigate Hill – Dunton Green
Border Crossing

 

The weather forecast proved accurate. The appalling conditions expected in the south of England had arrived in all their majesty. I left the hotel in drenching rain with mist down to roof level. Reigate Hill was somewhere above but all I could see was a bank of trees disappearing into the clouds. Taking the track under the hill, I retraces my steps up the steep (and now very slippery) path and steps to the Inglis Memorial, where I had left the North Downs Way the evening before. I saw little of the route across Reigate Hill, only coming out of the clouds at a footbridge over the A217 and a National Trust car park where there was a coffee kiosk. After a further mile of dripping woodland, the way descended over a golf course into Merstham. Conditions were such that the only memorable features were a footbridge over the M25 and a fine church. As the rain got heavier, I took a straight suburban road heading east out of the village. A climb to the crest of the downs was so wet that I could hardly keep my feet. It was a relief to drop back down again and take to tarmac.

 

With waterproofs over me and the rucksack, with conditions underfoot deteriorating as the morning progressed, it was impossible to see any views or remember many features on the trail. At one point I struggled to find the correct route through a factory and progress along the clay-covered field trods was painfully slow. A long climb up to Botley Hill was followed by a slippery descent beside a main road. Then a puddle-filled avenue led to a private track and the boundary stone between Surrey and Kent. The rain was beginning to ease but the state of the paths remained an issue. Much later than I had expected, I came to the long grassy descent off the downs towards Sevenoaks. I slowly picked my way downwards, desperately trying not to slip and slide on the wet grass. On reaching the road, I still had 1.5 miles of busy suburban roads to negotiate to reach my hotel on the outskirts of Dunton Green. It had been an epic day, no stops, no views, just survival.

 

Reigate Hill dep. 09.11, Dunton Green arr.17.35

GPS 22.99 in 8hrs 20mins 48secs walking time (no stops), 22 miles on-route.

I stayed in the Donnington Manor Hotel in Dunton Green. My meal was belly pork & mash, with a dessert of apple tart & ice cream. No draught beer so bottles of Bombardier had to suffice.

 

 

Thursday 22^nd October 2020              Dunton Green – Blue Bell Hill

Crossing the Medway

 

Foregoing the pleasure of breakfast for an early (and cheaper) start, I was able to fall out of the hotel door and straight onto the North Downs Way. The ginnel along the side of the hotel  emerged into a system of level fields across to Otford. The first shop was a news-agents. It had no sandwiches so I bought a swiss roll just in case. Lo and behold, there in the high street was a café serving bacon sandwiches. It would have been rude to pass by. Suitably fortified, I strode forth along Station Road, across the railway bridge and up the narrow path that began the climb up to Otford Mount.

 

The path came out at a three-way road junction and some level ground. Just when I was used to walking on the flat, the path turned downhill and lost height to pass below Otford Manor. Then up it went up again to the crest, which was adhered to for a mile or so before it plunged down a seeming interminable set of steps back to the very foot of the downs. Then there was a two-mile track into Wrotham where I crossed over the motorway and into a quiet lane that climbed gently, providing lovely views to the south. Another steep path (with steps) mounted the escarpment slope and passed through woods to the road junction at the Vigo Inn. A very pleasant but popular track led through open woodland of Trosley Country Park and then descended the slippery slope to the foot of the downs yet again. After another mile at valley level, a left turn was the start of an excruciating set of steps to Holly Hill.

 

From here the way got easier, first through Greatpark Wood and then onto a delightful series of woods and fields, in one of which I sat down and ate my swiss roll. This section finished with a steep descent through vineyards and hop fields to Cuxton. Then a climb to Ranscombe Farm picked up the farm access road which was followed into the Medway Valley. Views opening up of the bridges that carry the motorway and high-speed trains over the river. As I crossed the bridge on a cycle path, there a loud bang close by and the police stopped the south-bound carriageway. For a few minutes, I had the bridge to myself traffic free but by the time I reached the other side, the road had been cleared and the traffic roar resumed.

 

Climbing up the long ridge of Nashenden Down, a fit-looking young lady strode towards me, bouncing down the path like a seasoned walker. I was therefore surprised when she enquired about my map and the route I was following. Nusrat said she was relatively new to walking and was really enjoying the experience. I hope I left her suitably enthused with the prospect of lifetime of long-distance trails. The walk up to Blue Bell Hill was straight-forward. My only problem was in finding my way over the three busy dual-carriageways which separated me from my hotel. Resorting to the GPS map on my phone, I was soon entering the impressive lobby of my overnight accommodation.

 

Dunton Green dep. 08.30, Bridgewood Manor arr.17.40

GPS 25.12 in 8hrs 54mins 15secs walking time with a 15min break in a field near Greatpark Wood.

 

I stayed in the Bridgewood Manor Hotel near Walderslade Woods. I was delighted to find that the chef’s special was fish and chips. I was even more impressed that the bar had real ale, my first of the week, Camden Pale Ale at 4.0%. A stick toffee pudding was all that was needed to end a very long but enjoyable day.

 

Friday 23^rd October 2020       Blue Bell Hill – Hillingbourne Station

Up and Down the Downs

 

The guide book seemed to be at odds with the map. The latter showed an easy-looking two legs to Hollingbourne village but the guide book indicated mileages that seemed incompatible. Taking no chances, (I had a train to catch), I rose early and forewent the pleasure of breakfast. Out of the hotel by 8am, I was surprised at how far off-route the hotel had been. It was 1.8 miles back to the Blue Bell Hill viewpoint. The view was semi-hidden by mist drifting up the south slopes of the hill. The sun-drenched fields gradually appeared out of the fret as I strode downhill to the Neolithic stones, Kit Coty’s House.

 

It was fast going to Detling where a huge and complex footbridge crossed a dual-carriageway and dropped me into the village. The exit road was given away by its name, Pilgrims Way. But the route had a sting in the tail. Just after the cricket club, the trail turned up a steep field and onto the wooded slopes of the downs. But it did not cling to this hard-earned height. It descended an endless flight of steps to field level then climbed over bare ridges emanating from the main plateau of the downs. Up and down I went, up steps and down dales. My anticipated walking rate of three miles an hour was unachievable. Time passed swiftly but the miles did not. To be sure of catching the train from Hollingbourne, I had determined to leave the trail at noon. At Broad Street Hill, I said my farewell for the time being to the North Downs Way and descended down the lane and across a field into Broad Street on the Pilgrims Way. Then a long featureless path over a mile-wide ploughed field (I had to resorted to a compass) brought me to the railway and a right of way to the station footbridge. I had twenty minutes to wait for the train, time to relax and cogitate on a much harder day than expected.

 

Bridgewood Hotel dep. 08.04, Hollingbourne Station arr. 12.30

GPS 13.19 miles in 4hrs 31mins 51secs, about 10 miles of which was on-route.

 

Conclusion

 

What seemed on paper to be a complicated rail journey turned out to be a simple and straight-forward affair. My first train whisked me into Maidstone East where the guard pointed out the passageway over the river to Maidstone Barracks Station. From here, a delightful little branch line ran along the river through villages I had never heard of, terminating at Paddock Wood. The last leg to Tonbridge was one stop and seven minutes. I reversed my walking route of Monday morning and found my car safe and sound. I started for home straight away, knowing I had the M25 and M42 to negotiate and I wanted to get home in day-light. A meal was awaiting me and it was lovely to relax with Jill after a week away from home. I had walked 97 miles, 85 miles on route, with only one day of bad weather. I have crossed the Rubicon or was it the Medway and have set up the opportunity for getting round the Wye – Dover – Canterbury loop in the next and hopefully final visit to this national trail.

Settle Loop & Pennine Bridleway (Part 3)

Settle – Kirkby Stephen    16^th - 19^th September 2020

Introduction

I had been waiting a long time for this. I was planning to complete this National Trail much earlier this year but my walking projects for the season got caught up with the Covid pandemic. Eventually the hotels and b&b’s began to reopen and I could plan a trip to conclude the trail that I had started nearly two years ago. My first decision was to find the optimum method for getting to Settle, where I had finished part 2 of my walk some 18 months ago. Rather than use the train for the entire journey, not the most pleasant form of transport at the moment, I drove one Wednesday morning to Kirkby Stephen Station and risked leaving my car for four days in the station car park. I caught the 11.46am train to Settle and was walking by 12.35pm at the start of my third and final section of the Pennine Bridleway.

Wednesday 16^th September 2020    Settle Station - Settle Loop - Settle

Loop the Loop in Settle

I set off from the station, quickly passed the coffee shops and market square to gain the quiet lane to Langcliffe. Here the Malham road climbed steeply up to the start of the Settle Loop, getting some warmth into me on this cloudy and mirky lunchtime. The stony track climbed gently passed a group of shepherds bringing their flocks to lower ground. One young member of the team was controlling a wild horse by throwing stones at it. An older couple emerged from the path from Victoria Cave and, as they showed little enthusiasm for the feature, I was not tempted by a possible detour and I passed quickly on. A good quality track rolled out across bare moorland as the mist cleared and the sun struggled to break through the clouds.

After walking eastwards towards Malham for well over 5 miles, I reached the turning point, a fingerpost pointing south and, rather surprising, pointing uphill. The highpoint of the day was not reached for another mile, at a stage when I felt I should have been well on my way back to Settle. From this view point I could look back over Malham Tarn and then forward to Rye Loaf Hill and the Ribble Valley. As I reached the crest of the steep rocky descent, views down to Stockdale Farm openedup. The track dropped through the limestone layers and on to the farm access road and then on tarmac for a further mile to Lambert Lane. Eventually I came to the point where last year’s route from Long Preston had emerged and I repeated my last year’s finish into the town centre with fine views over Settle as I descended. I went straight through the market square in search of my accommodation which was a few hundred yards to the north. The skies had cleared and I was not to see another cloud for the rest of my trip.

Settle dep. 12.35, Oast Guest House, Settle arr. 16.25

GPS 11.12 miles in 3hrs 50mins 16secs.

I stayed at the Oast Guest House and ate at the Royal Oak where I enjoyed fish, chips and mushy peas followed by apple and mixed berry crumble and ice cream. The beer was Yorkshire Blonde (3.9%) from Ossett Brewery.

 

Thursday 17^th September 2020               Settle – Ribblehead

From Oasts to Ashes

 

The earliest I could get breakfast was 8.30am so I had my bags packed and ready to go before I wandered downstairs for a full English. It was warm and sunny as I set off and I wore only a short-sleeved shirt and shorts as I walked once again through the market square and up passed the museum to where I had left the route-sign on the day before. I followed the signs carefully today as I was now setting out on the official way north. The rising path led out onto grassy hillsides with great views over the town. After two miles or so, I came to the road from Langcliffe village that I had climbed yesterday on my way round the Settle loop. I now continued along the road for half-a-mile and turned left down a tarmacked lane to Winskill. A bridleway took me around the farm and down to Stainforth, a quiet village looking lovely in the sunshine.

 

The busy road was crossed via a tunnel, the entrance to which was hidden in the corner of a car park. More paths and lanes led to Little Stainforth which I hardly touched as the route turned onto a two-mile section of road passed a large quarry. After an age, a grassy path went off across fields towards Bark Houses Farm where a concrete drive ascended towards Feizor Nick. On the grassy descent views opening out towards Austwick and the hills beyond. But first the hamlet of Feizor: a vital part of the route. Here is one of the best cafes in Yorkshire, Elaine’s Tea Shop. And on this glorious day it was a hive of activity. I found a table outside and daubed myself with sun-cream as I awaited my cappuccino and coffee & walnut cake. All too soon it was time to be on my way again. A narrow, walled lane led through some farmland and then passed a small wood before breaking out into the fields in front of the village of Austwick. The signed route did not enter the village but immediately turned away along a road heading northeast.

 

It was really getting hot now. Thwaite Lane was a rough track that went gradually uphill in a straight line to Clapham, but just before the village, an acorn crested sign pointed me northwards and uphill above Ingleborough Cave and Trow Gill. The top gate led out onto a magnificent grassy plateau which extended for almost two miles through high ledges between limestone outcrops. It changed in character when I crossed the main track from Ingleborough to Horton. The ill-defined track descended sharply

down cattle-filled meadows to Selside. Crossing the Horton road, I continued under the railway line and down to the River Ribble. A beautiful new footbridge took me over the river and passed Dale Mire Barn on a farm track led up to the tarmac lane from Horton to High Birkwith. This the end of the day on-route but there was however still some way to go the reach my bed & breakfast. I fell into step with Johnny and his mum who were just finishing their three peaks round. We chatted our way through Nether Lodge and Lodge Hall, finally parting company at the entrance to Ashes Farm, my bed for the night. I had a shower and short rest as I still had a good walk to get to the pub.

 

Settle dep. 09.13, Ashes Farm, Ribblehead arr. 16.40 

GPS 20.61 miles in 7hrs 02mins 30secs walking with 20mins (11.50 - 12.10) in Elaine’s Tea Shop in Feizor.

 

I stayed at Ashes Farm near Ribblehead. It was exactly a mile to the Station Inn where I gorged myself on steak & ale pie with mashed potatoes, then chocolate & orange sponge with sorbet. The beer was Jericho Blonde (3.6%) from Settle Brewery. It was becoming truly dark as I staggered back down the road to the farm.

 

 

Friday 18^th September 2020             Ribblehead – Garsdale Head

Driving Round Knoutberry

 

I was invited to an early breakfast so I was ready to don my boots at 9.15am. The day looked similar to yesterday, blue skies and morning sunshine but with a chilling wind that had blown up overnight. I reversed yesterday’s finish, walking against a steady stream of three-peakers who had obviously had a very early start from Horton. Just above High Birkwith, the Pennine Way joined with the Pennine Bridleway and the two national trails ran passed the lovely bridge at Ling Gill and then in conjunction for nearly five miles. At Cam End, the Dales Way came in and there was a one-mile stretch with three major trails used the same track. Soon after reaching tarmac, the Bridleway took a sharp left turn and dropped westwards towards the main road at Newby Head. I had a twenty-minute break on this descent and then proceeded down to the road and beyond to Newby Head Gate.

 

The wind was becoming stronger as the day went on and I donned a pullover for the climb over Wold

Fell. From the grassy summit plateau, I could see that little height was lost in traversing the headwaters of Artengill Beck. A short ascent up the flanks of Great Knoutberry Hill brought me to a contouring track once called the Driving Road. Magnificent views opened up over Dentdale and its station as I rounded the hill towards the Coal Road which climbed up from the station. I then faced 2½ miles of tarmac, white vans and cyclists along Galloway Gate to the station at Garsdale. From there, a path ran parallel to the railway and under a viaduct to emerge opposite the car park of the Moorcock Inn, my shelter for the night. A classic high-level day of walking.

 

Settle dep. 09.19, Moorcock Inn arr.15.40

GPS 17.43 in 6hrs 08mins 01secs walking time with a 20min break near Newby Head.

 

I stayed in the Moorcock Inn near Garsdale Head and had a meal of game pie & chips and Bakewell tart and custard. I forced down two pints of exceptional Semer Water (4.1%) from Wensleydale Brewery in Leyburn.

 

Saturday 19^th September 2020      Moorcock Inn – Kirkby Stephen Station

Two Big Climbs to Finish

 

I was back in the bar for another full English breakfast. An early start was the order of the day, my last of the trip. The sky was still cloudless but a chilling east wind induced me to wrap up as I crossed farmland and a stream to reach the steep climb to High Dyke. Here I joined the Lady Ann Highway, a route I had done several years before. Then followed five miles of delightful high-level walking, gradually descending into the valley whilst passing Hell Gill and the ‘Water Cut’ sculpture. The biggest surprise was watching a group of vehicles climbing up the track towards me. This turned out to be an off-road safari for 4x4 enthusiasts.

 

I gained the valley road at the Thrang and turned south for half a mile before embarking on my last

big climb, through Hazelgill Farm and up the flanks of Wild Boar Fell. This topped out at High Dolphinsty where I stood chatting for a few minutes with a couple from Stoke. Then a long winding descent on a stony path led down to the official finish of the Pennine Bridleway. It could not have been less inspiring. After 205 miles of wonderful hill country, the route fizzled out into a tarmac farm track and a single lonely weather-beaten fingerpost on the A683. With no feeling of elation or completion, I turned northwards on a four-mile tramp down the main road passing the Fat Lamb and on to Kirkby Stephen Station and my car. 

 

Moorcock Inn dep. 08.59, Kirkby Stephen Station arr. 14.00

GPS 14.37miles in 5hrs 01mins 54secs.

 

Conclusion

 

My car was safe. I jumped straight in and started for home, stopping briefly for diesel in Sedburgh and at Killington Lake services. I was home in 2½ hours and was soon enjoying a cup of tea with my wife, sitting in the afternoon sunshine. My 16th national trail was completed. I had been very lucky squeezing this in during a spell of perfect late-summer weather in between Covid lockdowns. Goodness knows when I will get onto my next long-distance path.

Glyndwr’s Way (Part 2)

Machynlleth - Welshpool   1^st - 4^th Oct 2019

Tuesday 1^st Oct 2019             Machynlleth – Llanbrynmair

Buses and Trains

I had been waiting for weeks for a let up in the weather. Eventually the forecast indicated a 48 hour window in between the rain-bearing weather fronts. The problem was that I required four days to complete the national trail that I had started last year. So I was going to get wet at the beginning or the end, take your pick. The United match on a Monday evening defined the latter option but the continuous rain was to take longer to clear than was first thought. Early on Tuesday, Jill took me in damp conditions over to Wilmslow station for the train to Shrewsbury. Here the problems began. The line onwards into mid-Wales was flooded. My train was cancelled and the next train only went as far as Newtown. From thence it was a bus replacement. So from expecting a late but achievable 16-mile schedule, I was desperately chasing the remains of the day and walking and jogging far faster than I had wanted.

My bus replacement arrived into Machynlleth at 1.10pm, 1½ hours late. I leapt off the coach and pounded passed the clock tower and down the main street. I had five minutes in a café gulping down a cappuccino and vanilla slice before setting off at a march up the long road out of town and across the golf course. The ground was saturated and the road was running with water. As I crossed the first hill it started to rain and it was to continue on and off for most of the day. As the grass got wetter, keeping my feet became an issue and steep descents on muddy paths were a nightmare. I fell several times and was soon covered in mud up my back and over my rucksack from slipping onto my back side. The first difficulty with route finding was in Abercegir where I was several minutes trying to find the exit from the village. The next set of hills was very remote and featureless but I was able to jog on the flat sections of grassland. I briefly wandered off-line at one point but quickly corrected to find the contour route around the head of a valley and onto the start of the descent to Cemmaes Road. The very steep grass fields were thankfully not quite so slippery and I soon got down to the main road with 10 miles behind me and two hours daylight remaining.

I was glad to get off the road again. No pavements and very fast moving traffic alarmed me. After a mile beside the river, the route turned steeply uphill and I was beginning to feel shattered. I had not planned to go so quickly and with such effort. Emergency rations and water were called for and I got going again along a flattish two-mile path that contoured across the hillside. The forest shown on my map had been cleared and the landscape looked dismal. At last, in the fast approaching gloaming, I reached the final ridge where the route turned towards my final destination, running along the last remnants of the plantation and then down steep wet grass where I was once again flying on the seat of my pants. It was dark when I reached the farm at the foot of the hill and pitch black by the time I got to Llanbrynmair. I stopped at the pub to ensure that a meal would be forthcoming, then went over the road to my b&b and had a very quick shower and change of clothes. I was certainly ready for a meal.

Machynlleth dep. 13.09, Llanbrynmair arr. 19.40  

GPS 18.33 miles in 6hrs 24mins 10secs walking time.  

I stayed at Wynnstay House B&B and ate across the road at the Wynnstay Arms. The lovely lady who owns the pub made me a plateful of lamb shank, chips and vegetables. I managed two bottles of Badger Fursty Ferret (4.4%) whilst watching Bayern put seven goals passed to Spurs.

Wednesday 2^nd Oct 2019      Llanbrynmair – Lake Vyrnwy

Too Late for the Rally

What a difference a day makes. The morning was clear and dry and the sun was breaking through as I finished breakfast, packed my rucksack and retraced my steps out of the village. After turning back onto the signed trail, the route crossed several fields climbing steadily. Then suddenly there was a post pointing directly up a very steep grassy ridge. At the top, the view was spectacular in the morning sunshine. The high level traverse of Cerrig y Tan was the highlight of the week. Views to the north and west opened up and the going was good underfoot. It was almost a disappointment to finally come to the end of this magnificent bit of country. The route passed into an extensive plantation and onto wide forest tracks. The last mile was back to wet and slippery grass before I emerged out of the trees and onto a bare and featureless moor, with route posts indicating the presence of a way. A gradual shedding of height brought me to a well-defined farm track and then to a road.

It was almost two miles of tarmac before, at Dolwen Farm, I had to wade along a flooded walled farm-track which climbed gradually uphill onto another desolate moor. A long descent, desperately trying to spot the next post, seemed endless and complicated, weaving as it did across the grain of the hillside. At last I spotted a trod across a field to a farm that featured on my map. I am not at all sure I came in from the correct angle but, at the end of a private drive, I picked up the acorn signs again. Then it was down a few lanes and over a footbridge to emerge onto the main road at Llangadfan. And, glory be, there on the other side of the road was a café, the Cwpan Pinc. I had a lovely slice of coffee & walnut cake with my cappuccino. A gentleman presented me with a set of DVDs from a local man who had motor-cycled round the world. Then it was off into the afternoon section.

Initially the route crossed farmland and the signage disappeared. So I took to the parallel lanes which provided better conditions underfoot. A long uphill series of field brought me to another lane at Penyfford. The footpath opposite, the entrance to Dyfnant Forest, was blocked by a ‘Footpath Closed’ sign. No alternatives or diversions were given so I pressed on into the forest and onto the forest tracks that had obviously just been used as part of the Welsh Rally. At the stage point, workmen were clearing the equipment from the previous day. If I had been a day earlier, I would not have got through; the route of Glyndwr’s Way had been a high speed race track. Thank goodness for the United match that had delayed my passage by a day. I really must follow up on the legality of running an event like this along a national trail without providing an alternative way for walkers. Anyway, I was through and down a stony track that was a raging stream. This led onto the lane that took me to Ddol Cownwy and its large site of mobile homes. Then, just in case I had forgotten my climbing muscles, up went the track over the next hill. I could hear the roar of the water before I saw it. Then there was the Lake Vynrwy Dam beneath me, spilling vast quantities of water in a spectacular waterfall. And beyond, high on the hillside, was the majestic hotel that was my destination. I quickly dropped down to the silent and empty village and crossed the dam to reach the memorial to those who had been involved with its construction. It was a pleasant walk along the side of the lake and up the steep entrance road to the hotel. It had been a superb day’s walking.

Llanbrynmair dep. 09.22, Vyrnwy arr. 17.30 

GPS 20.07 miles in 7hrs 36mins 24secs walking with 30 mins in the café at Llangadfan (14.00-14.30).

I stayed in Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa. I ate in the Brasserie, chicken tikka masala, followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. Some lovely real ales and I enjoyed an awful lot of Old Jailhouse (3.9%) from Monty’s Brewery near Montgomery.

Thursday 3^rd Oct 2019          Lake Vyrnwy – Meifod

Racing the Rain

Leaving the hotel, I slipped and slithered down a woodland path that was a short cut back to the dam of Lake Vrynwy. A cloud of mist and spray hung over the spillway reminiscent of some of the great waterfalls of the world. The day was dry but yesterday’s sunshine had disappeared. I picked up the route again and followed it on tracks and paths downriver to Llanwyddyn. The road south went gradually uphill until a forest road forked to the left. More signs of the rally littered the way. Then a figure-post pointed up a narrow trod between the trees and up a set of, maybe, 100 or more steps. Emerging at last onto a bare hilltop, the view around was stunning. But the way dived immediately back into the forest and down a narrow, steep and slippery path which dropped straight into Pont Llogel. Just before the bridge, a signpost led me through a carpark onto the banks of the River Vrynwy and along the Ann Griffith’s Walk. After a mile of easy walking, the Glyndwr’s Way turned off up a field at the top of which a farm track is followed. A diversion, not particularly well signed, took me round the farm at Pentre. Then it was lanes, fields and open moorland before the gentle drop back into the Vrynwy valley at the village of Dolanog.    

Crossing the river, I walked first along the road and then a wooded path on the south bank of the river. Some parts of this section were interesting, particularly as we passed under a hill into a wooded gorge. Then it was out into fields and flat grassland before I came to a large farm where the route took to its access road. Pontrobert was larger than I expected. It had a school and a bus shelter and a river bridge that was closed for road works. It even had a pub but this was closed as well so I was not to get a refreshment break today. The storm clouds that had been forecast were amassing behind me and I pushed on at an increasingly greater tempo. A short section of farmland led to another farm access lane, this one tarmacked all the way. Just before the main road, the route turned into yet another forest, this one being heavily felled. I was given a lecture on health & safety by a forester at the entrance and then ignored the diversion signs and clambered through the mud and over the logs and brashings and out into the lane into Meifod. Now a few drops of rain began to fall and I increased my pace yet again. I passed the school thinking I might have to run to keep dry but I turned the corner into the village and there was the pub 50 yards up the road. I was home and dry and it was not yet 3.30pm.

So for the first time this week, I had time for a long shower, a much need shave and a good read/rest. Then I slipped down into the bar to taste the local waters and watch my football team in the early kick-off European match. I should do this more often.

Lake Vyrnwy dep. 09.13, Meifod arr. 15.25

GPS 16.26 in 6hrs 11mins 10secs.

I stayed in the Kings Head in Meifod and had fish & chips in the bar whilst watching United on TV and drinking HPA (4.0%) from Wye Valley Brewery. I finished with apple crumble and then retired early to my bedroom to watch KJT win her gold medal.

Friday 4^th Oct 2019   Meifod – Welshpool

A Golfing High

A storm had passed through during the night and it was dry and overcast as I left the hotel. I had got an early start, breakfasting in my damp walking gear so that I was walking soon after 8.30am. This turned out to be an excellent move as I was able to enjoy an excellent morning’s walk free from any time pressures. And I needed that extra time as the ground was saturated once more and fast progress on the slippery ground was impossible. The long ascent out of the valley took a zig-zag through the woods and along quiet lanes. The convoluted excursion ended, after three miles of walking, at a viewpoint immediately above my starting point. Then more rapid progress was made to the south with a complex sequence of farms, fields, woods and lanes. Any sloping land was treacherous to walk over and I skated on sheets of water, grass and mud for the next hour or so. The only let up in concentration was through a caravan site and along a narrow lane around Stonehouse, a large and prosperous looking farm.

There was a sting in the tail. It started in a wood when a set of steps and steep ground had to be climbed to get over a tree-lined hill. This height was lost again as the path slanted down a woodland track and into open fields to a stream. Facing me was then the longest steepest barest field on the entire route. An endless slog up a cut grass slope eventually led through a kissing gate and across a lane. The top was now in sight above a golf course built on the crest of the ridge. A convoluted route around the edge of the course, the golfers obviously not welcoming long-distance walkers, took me up bracken slopes, across bracken-lined footpaths, and then finally up a steep climb to the trig point at Y Golfa.

Then it was downhill all the way, first across hillside, then through woodland and farmland and finally across beautifully kept parkland. This came out at the roundabout at the entrance to Welshpool. I had made good time and could afford a break for lunch. I sought out the Monkey Tree Café, which we had discovered during our summer trip with the grandchildren. A Panini and coffee were quickly consumed and I continued on my way through town, pausing to have photographs taken at the official end to Glyndwr’s Way. The station was a short way beyond and I was soon on a train heading for Shrewsbury and a connection to Wilmslow. Jill was waiting in the sunshine and I was home by late afternoon enjoying a nice cup of tea. I had clocked 66 miles in four days of walking and had completed another national trail.

Meifod dep. 08.40, Welshpool Station arr. 13.35

GPS 11.80 miles in 4hrs 23mins 54secs walking time plus a 30 min (12.55-13.25) break in a café in Welshpool.