Pennine Way (Part 2)

26-30^th April 2010

Introduction

We needed an early start to achieve our objectives for the first day. Up before 6am, Jill was helping make bacon butties for the drive to Horton. Felicity dropped Mike off at 6.45am and we were soon heading northwards to resume our annual pilgrimage towards Cape Wrath. Last year we interrupted our journey at Horton in Ribblesdale station so this is where we were now returning. Mike had cleared it with the Railway Company for us to leave our car in the station car park. So this became our starting point for the 2010 episode. We were parked up, fed and underway before 9 o’clock.

Monday 26^th April 2010: A Train without a Line

It was a bright but cold morning as we left Horton. Clag hid the tops of the three peaks, robbing us of the best views but, once we had gained height, the Ribblehead viaduct could be seen in the distance. Mike was reasonably familiar with the route, having walked it at night on an LDWA 100. So we did not miss the left turn and were making very good time on the long high tracks towards Hawes. We met a guy carrying his camping gear in a huge high-pack but were moving so much faster that he was soon left far behind. All this was a trip into the unknown to me. I had never before walked in the Pennines north of Ribblesdale.

As we skirted Dodd Fell, great views opened up to our left and the weather skies were clearing as we descended on a long grass slope into Hawes. Here we found a quiet coffee shop and had a pot of tea and our first cakes of the holiday. As we left the village, now in sunshine, we came across an amazing sight. A complete train, steam engine and carriages, sat in the station to our right. We looked down on a double track of full gauge rails. However when I crossed the road a looked for the continuation of the line up the valley, there was nothing. Just an overgrown strip of land through the meadows. That train was going nowhere.

It did not seem worth deviating off route to see Highdraw Falls. Only a dribble of water was coming down the river. So we braced ourselves for the long climb up Great Shunner Fell, four miles of steady ascent. A young couple coming down towards us had there warm cloths on so we knew it was going to be cold on top. We rested briefly at the summit and eat our sandwiches. Then, we set off down a flagged path for the long drop into Swaledale. Thwaite was our first destination and I was surprised that there was a hotel right on-route. My research on accommodation had failed to uncover this. So we carried on up a rather steep climb round to Kisdon farm above Muker. Here we left the Pennine Way and, in glorious evening sunshine, dropped into the beautiful village to find our pre-booked B&B.

Horton in Ribblesdale dep. 08.53

Tea and Cake, Hawes 13.00-13.30

Great Shunner Fell 15.30-15.45

Muker arr. 17.30

GPS: 25.08 miles in 8hrs 15.43

We stayed at Swale Farm, Muker, Richmond, DL11 6QQ; (John & Joyce Kilburn)

Tel: 01748 886479

Dinner was at the Framers Arms where I had fish and chips and Muker Silver Beer from the Yorkshire Dales Brewing Co. (with a quick Golden Sheep from Black Sheep Brewery)

We got talking to a couple who, that very day, had moved up from Oxfordshire.

Tuesday 27^th April 2010: Hannah’s Meadow

On a lovely sunny morning perfect for walking, we retraced our steps up to Kisdon farm high above Swaledale and rejoined the Pennine Way. The route followed a balcony of limestone high above the valley and this slowly descended into woodland before the tiny hamlet of Keld appeared in front of us. Before we reached the village, the route took us over the Swale and up a side valley heading directly north. A long uphill section of bleak moorland took us up to Tan Hill. The door was open so we went inside and ordered mugs of tea. They had no cakes so I thought I was going to miss out on my elevenses until the landlord appeared with two pieces of cheesecake. ‘On the house’ was the only comment as he slung them on the table in front of us. Does life ever get any better than this?

Fully recharged, we stepped out over the lambs at the door and out onto Sleightholme Moor. Never has it been so dry, not in April anyway and we made a swift crossing of this notorious section. Once on the track to Sleightholme Farm it was dusty and hot. At the farm we took the left hand turn over the footbridge and onto a badly marked section of field path. Scrambling up a bank, Mike for some reason set off the wrong way along a stone wall whilst I, after consulting the Wainwright guidebook, sat waiting for his inevitable return. Eventually we were back on track and heading for the A66 where we had a brief rest and ate the remains of our emergency rations.

An underpass took us under this hugely busy road and then we were climbing again onto more featureless moorland. The heather eventually gave out to grass land as we approached the highest point on this section Race Yate. Here we found a young lamb standing alone and quietly at the trop stile. It did not have the strength to protest as Mike carried onto the side of the stile that contained a flock of sheep but no mother was waiting. This lamb would not last the night with motherly sustenance. So when we descended to the Clove Farm, again on an unmarked section of trod that was difficult to follow, Mike knocked on the door. But no-one was in so on we walked on to Baldersdale. At the next farm, Birk Hatt, a man was working in the yard. He listened to our story of the lamb and was moving inside to make a phone call when Mike remarked that Hannah Hawkswell use to live round here. ‘Yes’, said the man, ‘at this very farm. I bought it off her’. As we climbed the next hill we passed Hannah’s Meadow, a field of unimproved grassland that Hannah had managed by age-old techniques. Several rare species of plant are in this field and public access is along a wooden boardwalk.

A lone girl walked passed us on her way south. We were later to learn that she was London banker her had left her city life style and was walking from End to End. Our next top was the last of the day and we were soon striding down a wonderful grassy descent into Teesdale. Across the bridge and into Middleton market place, straight to our digs. Nothing could be easier, so you might think especially as this B&B was the only one to have confirmed our booking in writing. Jenny looked at us blankly. Peter who? She stared at her diary. It was good thing than I had brought the confirmation and our deposit receipt. She was very apologetic. ‘Family problems, I am afraid’ and she offered us the two double rooms for the price of a single and left us to make tea in the attic. There was a book on Hannah Hawkswell on the landing.

Muker dep. 08.53

Morning Tea at Tan Hill 11.15-11.30

Lunch at A66 20 mins

Middleton in Teesdale arr. 17.30

GPS 24.14 mls in 8hrs 01.54

We stayed at Belvedere House, 54 Market Place, Middleton-in-Teesdale, Barnard Castle,

Co. Durham, DL12 0QA (Jenny) Tel: 01833 640884 and ate at the Forresters Arms which is now a rather up-market restaurant with French Chef.

Wednesday 28^th April 2010: A Gem of a Walk

The forecast was that the dry settled weather would be coming to an end today. So it was pleasant to see that the day was starting well enough. It was a cool bright morning as we did our shopping in the Coop. We ambled back over the bridge well stocked with sandwiches and cake. We were in no hurry today. It was to be shorter then either of our days so far. Regaining the Pennine Way we started the day with a pleasant an easy walk up the River Tees, The lower woodlands were ablaze with spring plants, in particular, stands of wood anemones. I had never seen the water falls before and I thought that Low Force was the big one. So I was absolutely bowled over by our first glimpsed of High Force.

The walk then got better and better. The valley opened out into a wide flat strip between rolling hills dotted with white farm houses. Alongside Langdon Beck, a group of walkers had found some of the rare alpine gentians. Eventually the valley narrowed and the grass gave way to ankle-breaking rocks. Suddenly we rounded a corner and there was Cauldron Snout, a majestic cascade over a huge rock fall. We ate our sandwiches sitting on a shelf under the main falls and then started the afternoon session with a scramble up the rocks. The valley continued to climb until we were crossing a flat featureless grassy moor. So flat and featureless that the impact of what came next was staggering.

Suddenly we were standing on the brink of High Cup Nick, a huge symmetrical amphitheatre dropping 1500 ft below us. The chill wind that was focussed up at us added to the drama. We edged round the north side, totally dwarfed by the magnificence of the situation. Then it was a simple and easy descent in the afternoon sunshine down to the western plain and Dufton village. We kept to the official route to get round the village centre to Coatsike and then cut over to the church and back down the road to our bed & breakfast. Surely this is one of the great day walks in England.

We had lots of time for a cup of tea before wandering down to the Stag on a lovely clear evening.

Middleton in Teesdale dep. 09.10

Lunch at Cauldron Snout 13.00-13.30

Dufton arr. 16.55

GPS: 22.06 mls in 7.20.53

We stayed at Coney Garth, Dufton, Appleby, Cumbria, CA16 6DA (Trudy Foster) Tel: 01768 352 582 and ate at the Stag Inn. The Liver & Kidney was lovely, as was the ginger pudding with ice cream.

We met a local man and Dutch partner, both keen bikers. He was an Accredited Energy Auditor so I left my business card.

Thursday 29^th April 2010: No Bearings on Cross Fell

‘No-one has ever gone beyond Alston’, said Trudy as we set off from Dufton. ‘And you can’t take bearings on Cross Fell, because there are no features’. Even so, Mike kept his map and compass handy as we set off up the hill and into the cloud. As luck would have it, after three days of high clouds, the clag was down on the Cross Fell ridge. We needed our first compass bearing to find the summit cairn on Knock Fell. There were no features to take bearings on to get us over to Great Dun Fell. However Mike did us proud with his navigation and, after floundering in deep heather, we dropped straight onto the path ascending towards the aviation buildings. Not that we could see this until we fell across them in the mist. As we left Little Dun Fell the clouds parted for a few seconds and we got our only view. The surface plateau of Cross Fell was back in the clag by the time we got up to the top. Another compass bearing enabled us to pick up a line of small cairns which lead us to the trig point.

Our route off the top was the Wainwright alternative. This left the trig point on a 60 degree bearing and following some cairns toward the top of the scree and then along the rocky edge until a grassy rake was spotted descending through the clag. A fence was then picked up and followed all the way down to the old lead mine where the Corpse Road was joined. This led us all the way to Garrigill. Just before the village, we found a grassy bank to rest on whilst we ate our packed lunches. Then we descended into the South Tyne valley and a delightful riverside path into Alston. The Pennine Way does not go into the town. And neither did we. We still had a few miles to go and the temptation of a tea shop was put aside. It was a surprising good walk above the valley with the narrow guage railway down below.

At Slaggyford we missed the left turn back up towards the old railway and, by the time we had realised our mistake, we were well on our way towards our B&B. So we continued on the road and right into Knarsdale village. The bungalow was next door but one to the pub, ideally placed for two tired and hungry walkers after a tough day on hills and dales.

Dufton dep. 08.35

Lunch above Garrigill 13.40-13.55

Knarsdale arr. 17.40

GPS 26.21 in 8hr 48.55

We stayed at Stonecroft, Knarsdale, Slaggyford, Brampton, Cumbria, CA8 7PB (Les & Margaret Graham) Tel: 01434 382995. Dinner was at the Kirkstyle Inn. I had Steak and Ale Pie and Bread & Butter Pudding. The local beer was finished but the Yates ale was a worthy substitute.

Friday 30^th April 2009: Hitting the Wall

The long forecast rain had arrived. Water ran down the windows as we ate our breakfast and the doorstep was wet as we put on our walking shoes. But the moment we stepped out of the door, the rain stopped and we had our last day without a drop of rain upon us, five dry days to follow our lovely weather of last year. The Pennine Way is being very kind to us. We returned down the road to the point at which we should have left the route on the previous evening then turned north and headed for the Wall. I had not looked forward to this part of the walk. It had looked artificially and bitty on the map but this turned out not to be true. The path was a high level line giving good views over the valley and surrounding hills. The line of the path was good and purposeful with only one point, a left hand traverse near Lambley, which was hard to justify.

As usual, the route got better with height, as did the weather. The climax was a wonderful tramp on a compass bearing across an extensive moor towards Wain Rigg. Here we climbed a wall to bag another trig point and then, in sunshine now, descended into the Carlisle – Newcastle Gap. A short detour to the east took us to another defining point, the crossing of the A69. A golf course was crossed to reach Thirlwall Castle where I was planning to stop at the tea shop that we used many years ago on our Hadrian’s Wall walk. Here tragedy struck. The tea shop was no longer functioning. So we sat briefly under the castle walls and ate our last remaining rations.

Then we had a bus to catch so we made once last effort up the crags that carry some of the best parts of the Roman Wall. There was a café in Walltown Quarry car park but it was too late to stop now. We finally pulled over the last climb and started down the long gentle descent to Burnhead. Here a man cutting the grass stopped his work to tell us about the wonderful B&B he could now offer us. In the sunshine it looked idyllic. We must return with the girls sometime. But it was time to say goodbye to our route for another year. At the Cawfield road we turned for the Milecastle Inn and the bus stop. The AD122 was ten minutes late and we were worried about missing our train in Haltwhistle. But this was running 18 minutes late and we were then in danger of missing our connection in Carlisle. We just had time to grab a cup of coffee and scramble onto the Settle train for the wonderful ride down the spectacular line to Horton. We saw Cross Fell, High Cup Nick and Ais Gill summit before crossing the Ribblehead Viaduct, retracing in 90 minutes a week of hard walking.

The car was safe and sound at Horton Station and after a quick change of clothes we drove home to a meal that Jill had prepared and a clan gathering for the bank holiday weekend. A blissful end to a wonderful walk.

Knarsdale dep. 08.52

Lunch at Thirlwall Castle 12.45-13.00

Cawfield, Milecastle Inn arr. 14.25

GPS 15.17 mls in 5hrs 25.17

Mid-Shires Way (Part 3)

 

8^th May 2009

 

 

Introduction

 

Last year Mike and I had used the Mid-shires Way to get from Market Harborough through the North Midlands. Time had not allowed us to get quite to Buxton. We abandoned the trip at Sparklow some two miles short of Pomeroy. So our April Trek this year was resumed with a return to the Royal Oak and a relatively short day into Edale using the Mid-shires Way to Chelmorton and then the Pennine Bridleway.

 

My own particular association with the Mid-shires Way began in 2007 (Ref. Mid-shires Way Part I). I had taken a train to Princes Risborough and walked to Market Harborough in preparation for the continuation with Mike in 2008 (Mid-shires Way Part II). The first day of our 2009 walk (Ref. Pennine Way Part I) had added the 4 mile section to Chelmorton but I still had unfinished business. There was still 30 miles to go so I needed an early start. There was no early bus to Chelmorton so I left my car in Buxton and took the 7am bus to Pomeroy where it would be at least 32 miles to the finish.

 
 

Friday 8^th May 2009: Early Bird

 
 

The bus driver dropped me at the point where the Mid-shires Way crossed the main Ashbourne road. So I was on-route just after 7.10am on a cold clear morning. I was glad that I had thrown in my fleece. I needed this for the first 3 hours. The wind across the limestone plateau was biting. It seemed a long way back to Chelmorton before I could definitely declare to myself that I was again on new territory. After the initial easy of flattish tracks, the drop into Deep Dale came as a shock. It was a steep slippery descent with a brutish climb out the other side up to King Sterndale. The church was covered in scaffolding and even at this very early hour, work had started. It was not far now into Buxton although the entrance into the town through the caravan site and run down farm is not particularly attractive. I passed the site of the old CEGB management centre as I started down into the town centre.

 
 

Buxton looked most attractive in the early morning sunshine. I was tempted to call into a cafe for a breakfast but I had a big day ahead of me and it was far too soon to indulge myself. The road section was long and boring stretching all the way up Long Hill and the Roman Road. One is almost at White Hall before the road becomes a rough track but then there are good views of Coombs Edge before the big grassy descent into Erewood. Quite unbelievable I crossed the Long Hill road at the very moment that Jo Miles, my LDWA companion of many walks, was cycling passed on her training ride. Then it was down into the Goyt, the river that I was to follow for the rest of the day.

 
 

Off came the fleece as the lower ground gave shelter from the wind. An easy section took me on a high contour into Taxal and Whaley Bridge. I found a good route down passed the dam and through the park into town. Whaley is not famous for its tea shops so I had no temptation as I rounded the canal basin and set off on a long section of tow path. It began to rain, but it only proved a shower. It persuaded me to press on and I ran for a couple of miles to bridge 29 and the turn off. The footbridge over the Goyt was not easy to see but I eventually located it and crossed just as the rain came back with a vengeance. I stood under the railway viaduct for a few moments whilst I donned my waterproofs. I grabbed my butty at the same time and set off into the rain chewing smoked salmon. The Tors are a fabulous section of path and the new millennium bridge is spectacular. Then it was a dreary walk through the pastures and meadows beside the river before the route turned uphill and over to the Fox Inn. The rain was still lashing down as I took the steep and slippery track to Strines Station but the sun came out again as I reached Roman Lakes. I was tempted to turn into the leisure park to see whether the café was open but everything looked dead so I walked on. I was soon back on the canal towpath but not for long. The Maple locks involve a descent by road. Eventually, just below lock 2 a stile to the right took me back onto water meadow and the confluence of the Etherow with the Goyt. The only problem with this section was that just appeared so unnecessary. A short continuation along the canal saves 2 miles and 40 minutes. However I did see something of the Etherow Valley before rejoining the canal for a short section through a narrow cut. A notice caught my eye. ‘Tea shop at Hyde Bank Farm’, right on route. Would it be open? Not only open but popular. A pot of tea and a slice of coffee cake and I came out flying. I ran much of the flat and downhill for the next hour. I needed to because I was falling behind schedule.

 
 

It was a surprising good path right into Vernon Park. Then a long climb up to the museum was followed by a steep descent down to a bridge across the river. The last mile was disappointing, through an industrial estate and under the M60. Before I reached the disused railway I came to a road back into Stockport. I was late and tired and suddenly realised just how far out of town I was. So I abandoned the route and turned for Merseyway and the railway station. As I dashed up the approach, the Buxton train was just pulling out so I had almost half an hour for a coffee in the buffet. Then it was back to Buxton and the car, a drive over Cat and Fiddle and a quick meal before the annual beer festival. Quite a day. But I have got the Mid-shires Way out of my system. Not the greatest route but I have certainly had a tour of the country.

 
 

Pomeroy dep. 07.11

Tea Break Hyde Bank Farm

Stockport Station arr. 16.10

GPS: 33.77 miles in 8hrs 44.36

Pennine Way (Part 1)

16-20^th April 2009

Introduction

Gosh, doesn’t time fly. Almost twelve months to the day from being picked up from last year’s walk, here we were back at Sparklow. Jill, who had rescued us last year, again provided the transport and as she drove away leaving us in the cold and mist, the intervening year just melted away.

So at 9.15am Mike and I resumed our annual pilgrimage, which we later calculated as our 10^th year. This had all begun in the 1990’s at Minehead when we started the SW Peninsula Way. This had later developed into an End-to-End saga. Last year our trek up the Mid-shires Way had ended at Sparklow, our nearest point to home. In planning the route up through the country, the Pennine Way was de rigueur; all we had to do now was get to Edale.

Thursday 16^th April 2009: The Missing Link

It was 9.15am when Jill dropped us in the car park at Sparklow on the High Peak Trail. She drove away into a mist and we put on all our warm gear to protect ourselves from a biting east wind and rain blowing in the air. The first mile and a half was up the High Peak Trail to its end near Pomeroy. Then we crossed the main Ashbourne – Buxton road and set out along lanes and tracks to Chelmorton. At this village, we left the Mid-shires Way, which had been our faithful guide throughout the previous year. Not wanting to lose our theme of following national trails, we quickly transferred up a footpath passed the church onto the Pennine Bridleway. We did not know what to expect with this; was it to be all tracks and roads and sore feet? In fact it was remarkable satisfying. It took us along ancient walled paths, which we had not used before. One particular section, a long curving descent into Monks Dale was particularly attractive. This took us to familiar ground and we were soon having our first lunch break in Hay Dale.

Then it was on to Peak Forest and Mam Nick. We found it hard to follow the Conies Farm route over the moors. We ended up too far east and had to use the track passed Rowter Farm to get back on route. There was a bit of light rain and it remained cold. But it warmed up a bit as we descended into Edale. We went straight to our B&B but there was no-one in so we came back to the cafe at the railway station. I had had good reports of this tea shop from a friend whose eyes, I assume, were more on the waitress than the cake. Still no-one at the B&B so this time we tried the visitor centre and the Nags Head. Mike and I took turns in going back down to the digs until finally, just before 6pm, our lady arrived and let us into our rooms. She had rung home to warn us of the late arrival and Rachel had texted me. But by the time I put my mobile on, we were in Edale and out of network coverage. I was not to get this message until tomorrow lunchtime. We tried the Ramblers for a meal and washed down the steak and ale pie with a few pints of real ale. Then a very early night; we had an early start planned for the morning.

Sparklow dep. 09.15

Lunch in Hay Dale 12.30-12.45

Edale arr. 15.05

GPS: 17.71 miles in 5hrs 31.30

We stayed at Mam Tor House, Edale, Hope Valley, Derbyshire, S33 7ZA

Mrs Caroline Jackson, Tel: 01433 670253

Friday 17^th April 2009: The Mega Day

We breakfasted at 7.30am so that we were ready to move at just after 8am. The clag was still down on the tops as we skirted round to Upper Booth. By the time we reached the top of Jacob’s Ladder we were in mist and it had got very cold. So thick was the mist that I overshot the left turn to Edale Rocks and we were at the Anvil Stone before we realised our error so we compassed across Kinder, passing I assume to the east of Kinder Low. A clough led off in the right direction so I prayed that we were in the upper reaches of Red Brook and plunged down. It was with great relief that we came out on the edge path at the familiar Red Brook crossing. I was now on very familiar ground as we rapidly traversed round the edge and down to Mill Hill. Here the mist began to clear, or at least we were now beneath it.

I had not been looking forward to the next section. Over the years I had battled with Featherbed Moss usually in the dawn light of a High Peak Marathon. It was amazingly transformed. No longer was it a matter of picking your away across a wet and eroded moor. Ahead of us stretched a line of stone flags and on either side the ground had been reseeded or had recovered naturally. We could have had road shoes on for the next four miles. In no time we were crossing the Snake and continuing on the flagstones towards Hern Clough. Thank goodness the Clough was still as I remember it although so much drier. The mist was now clear of the summit and Bleaklow Stones was easy to locate. The path beyond certainly was not. Within seconds we had gone too far along the watershed path and found ourselves having to compass back to the top of Torside Clough. This was just as rugged a descent as I remembered, if not more so. As we came round the edge of the Clough, the east wind caught us as it hit this steep face. It was a relief to get down into Longendale where we crossed the Trans Pennine Trail, then the wall of the dam before lunching on the north side of the reservoir in the hot sunshine.

Switching my mobile on, I was surprised to find two messages awaiting us. I knew that Rachel had texted us yesterday about the late arrival of our Edale hosts, but there was also a message from Eric Landon of Wellcroft House enquiring about our ETA for tonight. So I rang him to give him a progress report. He offered to come up to Standedge to meet us, a very kind and welcome offer. Meanwhile we had the small matter of Black Hill and 12 miles of moorland to traverse. It was very warm as we struggled up to Laddow Rocks but we met the cold east wind again on the edges and this kept us cool for the rest of the crossing. From the top of Crowden Brook a line of flagstones took us to the summit of Black Hill and beyond. Again I marvelled at the change. Instead of the huge black morass of peat that used to surround the trig point, now the plateau was green and vegetated.

The flagstones took away the navigation requirements and dropped us down to the road and another deviation from the original line of the Pennine Way. We were directed right along the road and then down the trail passed Wessenden Reservoir. We were careful to find the correct way across the steep-sided clough and up onto Marsden Moor but then it was an easy few miles to our day’s finish at the car park at Standedge. Here we rang Eric and minutes later were in his car back to the wonderful weaver’s cottage that they own. Pots of tea, biscuits and good conversation soon put the efforts of the day behind us. We had survived and put Kinder, Bleaklow and Black Hill behind us in one day. Our feet were in good nick and we had actually enjoyed the experience. So to Susan’s wonderful meal and another early night (alcohol-free this time!).

We learned that it is Susan’s normal practice to prepare a dinner for PW walkers coming from the south that can be easily re-warmed at such time of the night as they collapse in through the front door (or have to be rescued by Eric’s 4X4 from some desolate bit of blacked-out moor!). To their astonishment, we arrived before the meal was even ready, and told us we had the “record” of their guests coming from Edale.

Edale dep. 08.08

Lunch in Longendale 13.15-13.37

Standedge arr. 17.50

GPS 28.5mls in 9hrs 20.48

We stayed at Wellcroft House, Bleak Hey Nook, Delph, Standedge, Saddleworth, OL3 5LY

Eric and Susan Landon, Tel: 01457 875017

Saturday 18^th April 2009: Travelling Light, Very Light

The day started well enough. We rose early and packed our bags before breakfast. Susan made us a super fry-up and Eric offered to take us back up to the high point of the A62. I fussed about resetting the GPS ready for the day’s walk and had the satellite location operative as we drove back up the hill. So I leapt out of the car at Standedge car park fiddling with the device. The last thing on my mind was by rucksack sitting on Eric’s back seat. I did not remember until he was driving away down the road. My efforts of running after him waving my arms were in vain. My phone, money, everything had disappeared into the distance. Mike collapsed in laughter, took a photo of me, and then dug out his ancient low-tech mobile and his copy of Eric’s phone number. It was a very cold spot to wait, but soon Eric arrived back also with a big smile on his face. My attempt to travel light would fuel Mike’s conversation for the rest of the trip.

Rather later than intended, we set off along the western ridges towards the motorway. A cold east wind was still blowing but the clouds were a bit higher and beginning to burn away, After crossing the M62 footbridge the route turned west and up to Blackstone Edge. The Aiggin stone was found successfully and this pointed us down to the White House. Thus ended a very long and demanding moorland section stretching all the way back to Edale. And to celebrate, the sun came out and the day got a lot hotter. Now we were on flat trails through the reservoirs with the prospect of Stoodley Pike getting slowly nearer. We had never realised that one can access a balcony around the pike but we saw people above us as we approached. So we sought out the stars (pitch black!) and were soon up there with them, having our photo taken to prove it. A long and pleasant descent into the Calder Valley brought us to Callis Bridge and the main road.

Then began a long and arduous climb passed shelves of cottages and hamlets. The way was not obvious so we paused for lunch whilst we consulted maps and guidebooks. The lady whose front wall we were sitting on returned while we ate and assured us that we were still on route. So we continued up over the ridge and down into the delightful Colden Clough. This led to another climb, this time onto a wonderful remote moor that eventually brought us to a road. This took us to Walshaw Reservoir and the path up to Top Withins. Finding another photo opportunity, we continued on and down towards Howarth, turning left down to Ponden before we reached the village. Ponden Guest House looked empty but we finally found Brenda and she made us a pot of tea and then showed us up to our room. We had a good look through her photograph album of the building of Ponden House. The paintings on the walls were staggering. Her ex-husband, she told us, was at Bradford Art College with David Hockney.

She then went out for the evening leaving us to lock up and make our way over to the Old Silent Inn where we had reserved at table. I found the Golden Fleece from Black Sheep very much to my taste and had several refills whilst I tackled my fish and chips. In the very last of the dusk, we made our way slowly but happily back to the digs and a very comfortable night’s sleep.

Standedge dep. 08.29

Lunch in Calderdale 13.15-13.40

Ponden arr. 17.05

We stayed at Ponden House, Stanbury, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD22 0HR.

Brenda Taylor Tel: 01535 644154.

Sunday 19^th April 2009: Our First Tea Shop

It promised to be not such a long day today so we had a slightly later breakfast and a more leisurely preparation for the day’s walk. The weather looked good, with clear skies and a less biting east wind. It was nice to get going and warm up as we went round the end of Ponden reservoir, along the road and then up the long climb of the north side of the valley. We were back on flagstones for the crossing of Ickornshaw Moor then a long gradual decent took us past a farm with dogs, pigs, chickens and geese with tufted crest feathers. Down and down we went passed little wooden cabins all newly creosoted and well kept; we assume these are shooting cabins. Eventually we reached the main road near Cowling and went through a small hamlet and up onto high farmland. Here we were overtaken by a couple of lads out for a run. One was training for the Three Peaks Race the following weekend.

One of the highlights of the route so far was the drop into Lothersdale, with the village laid out below us in the sunshine. It was really getting hot now and pullovers and thermal were stripped off to leave us in singlet shirts for the first time. (Mike still wanted his gloves on!). There followed a marvellous traverse of Pinhaw Beacon where we met an 88-year old fellow who was nobly struggling up to the summit for his morning constitutional. The descent into Thornton was gentle and long and not that easy to follow. We ignored an unmarked footbridge to the right only to have to climb back to it after we found that this was the intended route of the Pennine Way. Two more unsigned fields passed before we picked up signs indicating we were on a National Trail. It was a hot summer’s day in Thornton, with bluebells out and gardens in full bloom. A gentle field system took us down the canal near East Marton and we then had a mile-long tramp along the towpath. It was time for lunch and we sat with our legs dangling over the water eating the lovely butties made for us by Brenda at Ponden. A sign on the next canal bridge announced the presence of a nearby teashop, our first on the entire route so far. So we lengthened our lunch break to do justice to a large pot of tea as we sat in the garden in the sunshine.

Another set of fields led us to a delightful looking village, Gargrave, which had two more tea-shops on route. It was like waiting for a bus; walk 80 miles without a smell of tea and cakes, and then three come at once. A mile beyond Gargrave on the most obvious of fields, I made another off-route excursion. Compassing across fields is not the best practice so Mike whispered some common sense into my ear and we turned sharp left and uphill to find our path. Once reinstated, we quickly descended into the Aire Valley and picked up a pleasant grassy riverside path through Airton to Hanlith. Here we were hailed by an ice-cream seller who was just packing up but would hold fire a few seconds if we wanted a couple of cones. A horse show was packing up around us and it had the feel of the end of a hot summer’s day as everyone was setting off home. We set off up a rather unexpected hill but this gave us a splendid view down to Malham as we approached the end of our day.

The United - Everton semi-final was on the radio as we booked into Beck Hall so we were quickly shown to our room where I was left desperately trying to master the TV ‘on’ switch. By the time I mastered the technology, we were in extra time and the most embarrassing set of penalties United have ever executed. In many ways I was glad to get down to the Lister Arms and Wainwright beer from Thwaites. The roast pork was great and I even had a vase of flowers tipped down my back. What a marvellous and varied day it had been.

Ponden dep. 08.33

Lunch on canal 13.15-14.05

Malham arr. 17.15

GPS 24.04 in 7hr 57.08

We stayed at Beck Hall, Cove Road, Malham, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 4DJ

Alice and Simon Maufe, Tel. 01729 830332

Monday 20^th April 2009: Back on Limestone

What a magnificent morning! Under another cloudless sky we left Malham and climbed the road towards the Cove. As we dropped down the grassy path into the Cove itself, we were the only people in sight. The two of us alone in front of one of the most wonderful sights in the country. The steps up the limestone crag kick-started our metabolisms for the day. I got out my sun hat, and Mike took off his gloves! The sun was beginning to search us out in this vast white landscape. We were soon up at Malham Tarn where, except for one motor scooter, we were once more the only people around. It was an easy walk around the lake and up the grassy valley beyond. Fountains Fell began to dominate the way ahead. The day got really warm as we toiled up to the highest point near two piles of stones. We sat for a moment having a drink and a snack and then trotted down the other side gazing wondrously across at Penyghent. The modern route takes you down to the road and then a long section of tarmac leads up to Dalehead.

The approach to Penyghent was spectacular with a group of walkers spread out like spiders on the ridge above. We were soon up there with them and joined several other parties on the summit. We eat the last of our emergency rations and began our last descent, the long drop into Horton. We had over an hour to wait for the train so we adjourned to the café famous for the 3 Peaks. I could not resist Betty’s Spicy Bread and Butter Pudding, given more body with a blob of ice cream. I changed my clothes in the public toilets and then joined the general exodus towards the station. A Leeds man was extremely interested in our walking exploits and we swapped stories all the way back.

We caught the 15.30 train to Leeds and made a quick connection onto a Manchester train. This left us ahead of schedule and we shocked Jill be arriving at Macclesfield Station 25 minutes before she expected us. But we were very glad of a lift home and a nice cup of tea. Then it was off to dog training for Mike. A super route in super weather. How can we beat that next year?

Malham dep. 08.43

Lunch on Fountains Fell

Horton arr. 14.15

GPS 14.74 in 5hrs 10.00

Macmillan Way (Part 3)

21-23rd September 2008

Introduction

We have used the Macmillan Way as part of our walk from Lands End to John O’Groats. Over the last two years we have walked from Abbotsbury to Oakham. This year our major end-to-end project took us, in April, northwards on the Midshires Way. This left a task unfinished, the last leg of the Macmillan Way from Oakham to Boston. So after the summer monsoons had died away, we spent three days completing the route.


Sunday 21st September 2008

Starting on Sunday is no problem unless public transport is required, so we took the car to Oakham and parked it up at the railway station. A most amenable station master was watering his plants but took our registration number and made a note that we would be returning by train in three days time. So perfectly parked we set off on a beautiful morning, clear sunny skies and a cool nip to the air. Mike had pointed out the advantages of choosing the southern route round Rutland Water. And it was a great decision although it put a good few miles on the day’s schedule. We used the cycle way to get round to Manton where a long road section took us onto a delightful path round to Edith Weston and Normanton. Here we stopped for a cup of tea at a little wooden cabin. It was getting hot now as the sun glared down from a cloudless sky. We paused briefly on the wall of the dam before turning away and down a field path towards Ketton. The quarry to our left was encroaching onto the route and we came to a long and complex diversion to the right. This got so artificial and pointless that we took to the road and entered Ketton past an old windmill. A man collecting blackberries beside the road turned out to be an LDWA stalwart, someone Mike had seen on several LDWA 100s. Ketton village was beautiful, especially the lower part near the magnificent old church. We could not resist a quick look at the inside where we were entranced by a large map made up as a huge framed tapestry of quilted material.

Then we crossed the railway on a hidden footbridge and set out along the road and up a newly ploughed field. Thank goodness it had been dry. A trod in the soil took us uphill and along the crest of a ridge to another peach of a village, Easton on the Hill. We did not stop at the church this time but hurried on and down the fields, seeing for the first time the magnificent roofs and spires of Stamford. We crossed under the A1, complete with stationery traffic, and passed into the lovely water meadows beyond. We were soon in the lower parts of Stamford and amongst the beautiful stone buildings. We carried on to the main church, St Mary’s (there are lots of churches) and then got the instructions out as to how to find our bed and breakfast. It was only a short walk off route to find our accommodation, a rambling old house with a steep terraced back garden. No-one will ever believe me but it was a complete coincidence that the pub next door, the Green Man, was having a beer festival. So we called in on the way to town for a Chinese meal, and we called in again on the way back. A great end to a near perfect day. Beers were Tipples Lady Evelyn (4.1%), Oakhams Bishops Farewell (4.6%) and Cheltenham Festival Gold (4.4%).

We stayed with Mrs. T. Averdieck, 5 Rock Terrace, Scotgate, Stamford, Lincs, PE9 2YJ
Tel: 01780 755475
Oakham dep. 10.38, Stamford arr. 16.45
Walking time: 5hrs 53-53, 19.43 miles (GPS)


Monday 22nd September 2008

The weather was not so good in the morning. The skies were grey, a cold wind had got up, and rain was definitely in the air. After a magnificent breakfast, we walked back into the shopping streets and got maps, money and sandwiches. So it was quite late before we got going, a mile of town before turning up a track between some industrial buildings and into the meadows of the River Gwash. A small footbridge led us across the river and the route then climbed up a grassy field grazed by sheep. Little did we think at the time that this would be the last hill we would encounter. A long bridle way between trees led us to the highest point (150 ft above sea level). Then we were on tarmac, a flat road that led us to a level crossing. We had to stop and wait for a train. Then the barriers went up and we started across, half way across the lines two things happen simultaneously, Mike’s phone went and the training warning lights came back on. To my amazement, Mike stopped to unpack his phone. I suggested with some urgency that instead we should run to get off the lines before the barriers crashed down again. Mike then phoned home as another high speed train flew by.

Then it was off the road and round the fields to the village of Greatford. Mike’s adventures had not finished. He pulled out his reading glasses to read his new map and the arm fell off. Luckily the tiny screw was still in his pocket so he was able to rescue it and store it carefully away. But map reading would become a problem, to be resolved shortly when we walked off the edge of his map. I and the guidebook would then be our only navigational tools, the high risk option. At Kate’s Bridge we debated whether to turn off the route to see if the garden centre café would provide us with a cup of tea. But it was still early and the large breakfast was till fuelling the efforts so we crossed the busy A16 and turned onto the flood wall of the River Glen. If we had realised then that we were to follow this for 17 miles, I think we would have turned back to the café. An initial loop of the dyke to get round a flood meadow was the only departure from a straight line along the river. Occasional features stick in our minds. We drove a flock of sheep for a couple of miles until a fence turned them back, then the same scenario with some cattle except that this time there was a huge fierce looking bull that kept stopping to eye us up. We saw lots of birdlife, kingfishers, herons, and hawks as we passed through linear nature reserves based on habitats probably similar to the original fens. I began to understand what had really happened in the 17th century when the fens had been drained. The main rivers have nothing to do with the surrounding land drainage. They are just raised waterways taking run off from the midlands to the Wash.

To add to the dreariness, the clouds got greyer and lower and it started to rain. So out came the umbrellas and I could no longer peer into the surrounding gloom. All things come to an end and the riverside tramp finished at Pinchbeck West. Here the route continues down the quieter of roads that run down each side of the river. Still the rain came down and we were relieved to reach Pinchbeck itself and get off the road for the final mile to our farm accommodation. Mr Rowell very kindly took us down to the Bull where we had a plate of plaice and chips and then a marmalade bread and butter pudding. This was washed down with a couple of pints of a Cambridge brew. It was pitch black when we walked home and we trod in all sorts of mud as we slither back along the wet roads.

We stayed at Manor Farm, Langhole Drove, Pinchbeck, Spalding, PE11 3XP
Mrs M. Rowell, Tel: 01775 762027,
Stamford dep. 0915, Pinchbeck arr. 16.30
Walking Time: 6hrs 50-00 21.75 miles.


Tuesday 23rd September 2008

Our farm was right on route so 30 seconds after saying our farewells we were back on riverside bank of the Glen and heading for the main sluice. We passed a church that was tilting into the sinking fens so that its spire leans farther than the leaning tower of Pisa. The sluice itself was a very impressive arrangement of lock gates and pumps. It seemed strange to suddenly be aware of the tidal nature of the river beyond. As we turned onto the sea wall of the River Wetland the rain came in and forced us to fight under our umbrellas against a cold northerly wind. This river was massive compared with the old friend we had follwed for so long. It was like walking along the Ship Canal. We crossed another major road, the A17 at Fosdyke Bridge and then set out onto a remote section of sea wall around the Welland Estuary. We could see boats now coming in and out of the river. A bench of the leeward side of the sea wall provided us with shelter for a very brief lunch-stop, and then it was off again towards to distant profile of the Boston Stump. Eventually we turned the corner and headed north up the Haven, the major river into Boston. Here larger ships were passing. An amazing sight was the bird life round a waste landfill dump. Then it was through the docks and into the town proper. Traffic again after so long in the sticks. A complex road junction took us across the river and up to the church that was the end of the walk. We had seen the Stump, the huge church tower for the last few hours. Now all that remained was to climb it. Ten minutes was enough to see all around and then it was down for a cup of coffee and the train back to Oakham.

Pinchbeck dep. 08.35, Boston arr. 14.40
Walking Time: 5hr 50-51. 18.2 miles (GPS)

So that was it. A three year project was finished. The whole concept, from our annual adventures in spring, my mother’s last few weeks in the hands of the Macmillan nurses, all came together as I climbed the steps of the Boston Stump and looked out over the fens. A part of my life was behind me and it was time to move on, back to the hills and the north.

Macmillan Way (Part 1)

24-28th April 2006

Introduction

Each spring for six out of the last eight years, Mike and I have spent four or five days walking around the South West Peninsula Coast Path. Starting at Minehead in 1998, we chipped away at over 100 miles per year to reach Poole in April 2005. Our task was finally done and our life felt empty. So how were we to continue? Onward around the south coast (we could not face all those towns and built up coastline) or overseas round France or Ireland (too far for a short break). Finally the solution became obvious. We had last year passed by the start of the Macmillan Way, not far back down the Dorset coast near Abbotsbury. My mother had been diagnosed with cancer and was using the Macmillan Nurses. So all signs pointed us back to Chesil Beach and the start of a long walk north.

Monday 24th April 2006

I was awakened by a 6.00am alarm so that I could get some breakfast before driving over to Congleton. Mike was ready as always and we were travelling south by 7.00am. No point in worrying about the Birmingham traffic. The usual tactic is to have plenty of time to spare, join the queue, keep calm and eventually you are onto the M5 and moving again. We used the new exit off the motorway near Barnwood to get round to Cirencester and thence to Kemble station. Here we parked up and left the car to its fate. The station had a great atmosphere about it, friendly staff, a notice of the ‘station of the year’ award and glorious music (Benjamin Britten) emanating from the café. The man that ran the café told us about the Tunnel House Inn, the projected end of this year’s walk. ‘My local’ he said. ‘See you on Friday’ we called back as we left.

The journey down to Weymouth was faultless. The trains came spot on time and by 2.15pm we were waiting on Weymouth promenade for the once-a-day bus to Abbotsbury. The bus driver went out of his way to get us near to the start on Chesil beach. He went beyond his destination and let us off at his turning point at the beach road. So we only had 0.6mile to get to the start, a wooden walkway over the pebbles at the western end of Chesil beach

The stress just dropped away as we finally got walking. The clouds cleared and the sun struggled to get through as we traversed a glorious section of sheep-cropped hills near the coast. It was so dry underfoot, especially for two northerners with web feet. Moving fast and easily we had only one problem finding the route (around Maiden Newton) before we were passing an evening cricket match and crossing the church yard at Cattistock just as 7pm was chiming, bang on schedule.

We stayed in a lovely old house with a smashing couple. Sam was an OBE so we were in good hands.

Top of beach road: 15.00
Chesil Beach: 15.10
Cattistock 19.05

GPS Reading 13.53 miles in 4.05.36 (on route 12.9ml)
Ascent 2101ft Descent 1932ft

Stayed at Cattistock House, Cattistock, nr Dorchester, Dorset
DT2 0HY. Ate at the Fox and Hounds; I had cod and chips whilst Mike sampled the lamb curry. Puddings were not beyond our capacity. Beers: Dorset Gold (4.5%) and Copper Ale (3.7%) from Palmers Brewery, Bridport, Dorset


Tuesday 25th April 2006

We were down early for breakfast, raring to go. By 8.45am we were on the move (is this a record?). As we climbed up the first few fields, the drizzle got heavy enough to put up the umbrellas. The first section was a bit dreary, over large fields in wet misty conditions, into Yetminster. The route to Knighton was not easy to follow but things rapidly got better as the walking and weather improved. We were chased by frisky bullocks on the descent into Sherbourne. After a quick look round the abbey, we adjourned to a café on the main street for a much needed break. It had been a long morning.

The route left Sherbourne up paths and narrow lanes passed the golf course before dropping through woods to an easy-to-miss exit stile into farm land. The best of the day was still to come however as we passed through Sanford Orcas and up onto Corton Ridge. Views of Cadbury opened up as did the surrounding vista, spoilt only by the aircraft noise from nearby Yeovilton. We had made such good time that we decided to go the long way round Cadbury Castle using the Leland Trail to the west rather than two miles of tarmac. We were in South Cadbury and at the B&B soon after 5pm. Here we left our rucksacks and set off to explore the top of the ancient fort.

We always like to stay close to a pub but we hit the jackpot in South Cadbury. The Verney house is directly opposite the Camelot (ex Red Lion). So after showers and tea and lots of convivial chat with the Julie and Robin, we hopped across the road for a very fine meal. The Verney's had been extolling the quality of their local cheese maker, Montgomery’s, so we broke our usual custom of a ‘pudding’ to end the meal and shared a Montgomery cheeseboard instead.

Stayed at Lower Camelot B&B, South Cadbury, Nr. Yeovil, Somerset, BA22 7HA

Cattistock dep. 08.45
Sherbourne (lunch) arr. 13.30
dep. 14.30
South Cadbury arr. 17.10

GPS Total: 23.5ml in 7.59.24 moving time
Ascent 2373ft Descent 2624ft
Ate at the Camelot. Steak and ale pie all round with the cheeseboard to finish.
Beers: Doombar, from Sharps Brewery in Wadebridge, Cornwall 4%
Golden Arrow, Cottage Brewing in Lovington, Somerset, 4.5%


Wednesday 26th April 2006

It was lovely sitting in the Verney’s conservatory having breakfast and listening to their conversation. Julie gave us each a slice of Montgomery Cheddar and a banana to see us on our way.

The route started with a road section across the A302 (like a motorway) and into North Cadbury. The highlight of the morning was the first view of Castle Cary and the Calvary and living cross planted in hawthorn high on the hillside above the town. We stopped only to read about the old castle foundations before we crossed over a ridge of hills in Bruton, entered down a most delightful wooded descent. Bruton looked a really nice little place although its narrow main street was totally inadequate for the size and amount of traffic. We popped our heads into the courtyard of Sexy’s Hospital before finding a tea shop for a sandwich and drink.

The next section started with a dead straight line, 3.5ml along an old coaching route. This led to a forest ridge where we turned left (north) beneath Alfred’s Tower. We were then a long time on wooded tracks before finally dropping back down into farm land and sunshine for the final few miles into Nunney.

This was the day we met our only other serious walkers. Four ladies were doing a multiple day trip of their own design across the south west. Later in the day, in the woods near Alfred’s Tower, a man strode towards us who had done most of the Macmillan way, but in out and back sections from his car.

We stayed at The Bell House, 2 Horn Street, Nunney, nr Frome, Somerset BA11 4NP. Our host had been born in Zimbabwe and still had family out in Southern Africa. The house had been a near ruin until the last war but had been rebuilt in the 1950’s and was fabulously situated at the heart of the village overlooking the castle. She was selling the house which would no longer be available to Macmillan Way walkers.

After a radox bath, we could just about manage a slow walk around the peaceful ruins of the castle on its moated island (French-style, so the notice told us). We ate in the George, the only poor pub we encountered. The beer was undrinkable. It is not often that I have to resort to red wine after a day’s walk. The food was ordinary, and that’s if you like Italian menus. The village had sadly lost a ‘local’ and it showed.

South Cadbury 09.04
Bruton (lunch) 12.30
Dep 13.15
Nunney arr 17.45

GPS Reading 24.18ml in 8.01.56 moving time plus 45 min lunch stop in Bruton
Ascent 3255ft descent 2987ft


Thursday 27th April 2006

We made a big effort to get up and breakfast early. We had two very long days ahead of us. So we were away from Nunney before 9am and off through the suitably named ‘Murder Combe’. It was really getting quite warm as we crossed Orchardleigh Golf Course with its poorly signed rights of way. But having managed the difficult bit, I made a total hash of the navigation on the next section and almost missed the path towards Beckington and the only section I had been on before. However we soon had the long road section through Rode behind us and I was back in the groove and unwilling to stop at Tellisford when Mike called me back to look at an old mill. It had seemed of little interest as I had passed it but Mike, with his usual nose for the unusual, had asked a builder what was happening and had uncovered a low head hydro scheme (55-60kW). I was soon in my element discussing kilowatts and voltages with the owner, a man who had already invested over £600k into a scheme with a 20-year payback.

All this delayed our entry into Bradford-on-Avon and our lunch. Our very expensive crumpets and cheese were spoilt somewhat by the volume and content of the conversation (monologue) from the next table. A loud woman complained to the whole tea-shop about her unhappy love life and her hatred of all things male. Perhaps her feet were as sore as ours.

The batteries had failed in my GPS so our mileages from now on were depended on the guidebook. It got hillier again as we approached Box and the busy A4. The riverside walk up By Brook turned out to be a drag across untrodden fields of long grass and marsh. By the time that Jill phoned to report my mother’s state of health, ours was not a lot better. Finally however we climbed into the final wood towards Slaughterford where we turned up the hill to our B&B in Biddestone. It was more than the suggested mile off route to Home Farm and our beds for the night. Quick showers (no time to wallow tonight) and we crossed back over the village green to the White Horse and a most welcome Woolly Bully Pie. We slept well.

Nunney dep. 08.49
Bradford-on-Avon arr. 14.30
dep. 15.15
Biddestone arr. 18.50

Estimated mileage 28 miles in 9hrs 15 min plus 45 mins for lunch. Ascent unmeasured.

Stayed at Home Farm, Biddestone, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 7DG.
Ate at the White Horse Inn, Woolly Bully Pie all round followed by some form of tart (real puddings were not a feature of this trip).
Beer was Butcombe Bitter 4.0%


Friday 28th April 2006

We spent a little too long talking to Mrs Smith so it was gone 8.45am when we pulled on our walking shoes for the last time and set off down the long lane leading to Slaughterford and the official route. I clocked 1.3 miles on the GPS before we were able to turn up By Brook and onto Ford and Castle Combe. Briefly stopping in the village to ring Felicity, we then crossed the most delightful of golf courses. Soon we could hear the roar of the M4 but this quickly faded after we had passed under it and into a long field-crossing section. A bench outside Luckington Church proved too tempting and we took our first rest of the day. This was fortuitous because Sherston, my original target for lunch, proved devoid of all cafes and tea-shops (this may have been because street closures forced us to by-pass the main street).

I had never been to Westonbirt before, a failing that we were soon to correct. The owners, who charge substantial entry fees, keep quiet about the right of way traversing the arboretum. So we got a free taster of the wonderful woodland, set out in rolling parkland. After this beautiful section it was out onto the roads once more and thence to dry dusty tracks passed Chavenage House. I was praying for afternoon tea by the time we dropped into Avening but, once again, the route took us away from the shopping area. However the last shop, a post office with a bench outside, proved our salvation. We sat beside the road for 15 minutes eating Belgian buns and doughnuts. This was just the boost we needed to face the final section and we eventually took the welcome turn towards Tarlton and the finish.

We only had one more decision to make. To plod the 2 miles odd down the road to Kemble and the car, or complete our planned route to the Tunnel House Inn and phone a taxi. It was a difficult choice to ask two tired thirsty men to make. We arrived at the Tunnel House Inn at 6.20pm. We walked directly up to the bar and there, downing a lovely looking pint was our friend from the café at Kemble station, just as he said he would be five days previously. He introduced us to the landlord who listened with interest to oure tale of our week. 120 miles in 4 days and 3 hours. We quickly disposed of a pint of Uley Bitter 4% whilst the landlord ordered us a taxi. When this arrived, we wished our new friends au revoir and promised to be back next year to continue our walk north along the Macmillan Way.

The taxi took us to Kemble station where we found the car safe and sound but very dusty. It started first time. So by 7.10pm we were away and heading for the M5 and home. An easy drive saw us in Congleton by 9.30pm. I dropped off Mike and came straight home for a welcome shower and cheese on toast. I felt in relatively good condition and was soon falling asleep dreaming about the logistics of getting from Kemble to Oakham next spring.

Biddestone dep. 08.50
Tunnel House Inn arr. 18.20

9hrs 30mins for 28 miles (estimated).

Offa's Dyke (Northern Section)

25th - 27th September 2006

Introduction

As a training session and remedial exercise for a bad back, I took up Mike Laurence’s suggestion for a good long walk before the winter. Offa’s Dyke is on our doorstep. Mike had never done it and it was many years since I did the southern section with John Myddelton.

Monday 25th September 2006

I left home just before 7am and wandered down to the college to catch the 38 bus to Crewe. I still was not sure whether the road to Congleton was open or whether the diversion up Ivy Lane still applied. Mike was waiting at the new bus station in Congleton and we had a slow but steady journey to Crewe Station. We found an immediate train to Chester and had long enough here to manage our first cappuccino and cake. Before we knew it, we were drawing into Prestatyn station and the start of the National Trail. Being purists we had to walk down to the see (Mike even went onto the beach). At 10.05am we were off, back to the station and the main shopping area and then up onto a wooded traverse of a ridge above the town. It was amazing how quickly we were out of civilisation and into pretty countryside with spectacular views along the Welsh coast.

The route looked well signposted but, in these early days, we missed a finger post and were off route by ½ mile before we suspected our error. That added another mile to the total. As we dropped into Bodfari we met a lady using a hawthorn branch as a walking stick. She told us she was from Sydney and had been away from home and her family for 5 months. She must like walking. She had a book listing accommodation and we took some phone numbers. A shop in Bodfari (3-3.20pm) sold us some water and chocolate ice creams. We had seen lots of Dim Parcio signs before but here we came across a Dim Stopio. It was getting very hot.

We rang a pub about halfway along the Clywydian mountain chain but no one was in so we left messages on the answer phone. Now was the time to commit ourselves to the mountains. It was a stiff climb up to the ridge, a climb that indicated just how unfit I was, especially in this heat. The main ridge was fantastic walking and we crossed the first major peak, Moel Arthur, and dropped steeply down to a col and road crossing (5pm). Still no reply from the pub below us so we had no alternative but to go on. Before we did however, I tried the Druid Inn in Llanferres and the owner said she could accommodate us and pick us up when we knew where we would come out. So we set out with positive steps for the traverse of Moel Famau, with its ruined Jubilee Tower on its summit. A long but easy descent took us down to the road and our destination for the day

We got down to the car park on Bwlch Penbarras at 6.45pm and rang the owner of the Druid Inn. She was a bit hazy as to which car park until I mentioned the Grouse, a huge black and red wooden carving. As soon as I mentioned this she knew exactly where we were and 10 minutes later we were driving down narrow lanes to Llanferres. We had a nice room, good showers and a pleasant pint of Marsdens Pedigree. This washed down a Steak and Ale Pie and a treacle sponge pudding

22miles in 8hr 45m

Tuesday 26th September 2006

A most pleasant lady was up and waiting as we came down for an 8am breakfast. After we had eaten everything she fried for us, she drove us back up to Penbarras and we were setting off at 8.57am on a beautiful cloudless morning, climbing Foel Fenlli, green above us in the morning sunshine against a blue sky.

In no time at all (probably nearly an hour) we were crossing the A494 at Clwyd Gate and on our way to Llandegla. Before we got to the village, a farming family stopped us for a chat and laughingly suggested we would be able to round up their sheep for them. The post office served tea and we bought some cakes in their shop so we had a good 30-minute rest (11.45-12.15) before starting out again into a warm afternoon. The climb up through Llandegla Forest (Dim Bicio signs) was shaded but we were soon out onto the open moor where Mike practiced his Welsh on a mountain biker. A mountain road took us down into Worlds End. The next section was a delight, a long traverse under some limestone outcrops, with ravens, buzzards and a peregrine falcon up above. We stopped for a short lunch break in this magnificent scenery. Next we gained the road which continued the traverse passed Castell Dinas Bran. It got very hot on the road, glaring sunshine with no wind. Eventually however we started the drop through the woods to Trevor. Here was the only piece of badly marked route that we experienced. An unmarked stile before the first house led to a disused railway embankment with no indication that a national trail ran that way. If Mike had not seen a family walking towards us from the other side, we would never have found the slippery decent from the embankment and the stile leading to the Llangollen canal.

We were only on the towpath for 400 yards. This brought us to a boat yard leading to the Pont Cysyllte but the tea shop therein was a more immediate attraction. I pleasant young girl served us tea and cakes, our second indulgence of the day. Then came the spectacular walk over the aqueduct with the River Dee a long way below us. I was really getting tired and sore footed as we tramped the 1.5 mile of towpath before the southern turn for our first view of Offa’s Dyke proper. The more impressive site was the B&B sign and my legs gave way. But Mike was understanding enough to know I was suffering so we knocked on the door of Plas Offa Farm even though it was not yet 5.30pm. We were shown a lovely big room by the farmer’s wife. The strange bird sounds were soon traced to the front garden where two parrots (one Amazon and one Macaw) sat squawking away.

The walk along the A5 to the pub proved longer than the half-mile that our landlady suggested but the Aqueduct Inn proved a welcoming pub, Pedigree again, and I this time tried a chicken curry and pudding before watching United on the big screen as they struggled to beat Bernfica. Mike’s torch did not work for the walk back but we managed with no problem to find our farm and our beds.

23 miles in 8hr 30m


Wednesday 27th September 2006

The forecast was not as good as for the last two days so the grey morning skies were not a surprise. It was a lot cooler as well which suited me better. Armed with another good fry-up and a plethora of blister patches, I felt I was finally walking myself fit. We were away again just before 9am. The easier ground was also more conducive to the fast pace required to get to Welshpool and the train home. Anyway there was a bus from Llanymynech so it was not vital that we made the full distance. We made good time on the first section through the grounds of Chirk Castle (open until the end of the month). A surprisingly big climb took us up onto an undulating plateau which ended in a road section to the Old Racecourse above Oswestry. We were now back in England. A magnificent descending forest path look us to a complex section of the route which wound its way round Trefonen taking in isolated areas of high ground. One of these, Moelydd, gave us a fantastic panorama.

Then it was up towards the golf course and Llanymynech Rocks and another limestone outcrop. A helicopter was circling over the village as we dropped down though the trees back into Wales to the final mile of road. It had been a long hard section with no shops, pubs or tea shops; 17 miles of non-stop walking in 5½ hrs. There was no café in the village, just 3 pubs and a post office. We checked to make sure the buses were still running then we tried a pub. No luck, she was not serving food at 2.30pm. The next pub would make us a pot of tea but took umbrage at my suggestion that I get some food in the post office and bring it into the pub. Yet she would not make us any food herself. I was beginning to feel unwelcome here. The last pub, the Dolphin Inn, looked a bit crummy but, as chance would have it, proved our salvation. The landlord could not do enough for us and we had bowls of soup and lovely baguettes. So at 3.15pm we were ready to start again. The only worry was that there was a very long way to go; almost 12 miles to Welshpool station. And our train was at 6.55pm.

The section proved very straightforward, towpath at first then a section on the dyke proper and finally along the flood embankment of the River Severn. At Pool Quay the route crosses the main road and takes to the towpath of the Montgomery Canal again. Where this turned off for the last mile to Buttington Bridge, we stayed with the canal right into and across the town. The station looked very pretty in the oncoming darkness at 6.45pm. A lovely old building lit up splendidly. It was a bit of a shock when we found that it did not have a railway line or platform. This had disappeared under the new road and the present railway is now over a footbridge and on the other side of the trunk road. However our journey was finally at an end and we were just in time for the train.

This was late but there was still time to change my clothes and have a quick coffee and sandwich at Shrewsbury. Then the Crewe train came in and we were on our way northwards and home wards. A comfortable connection at Crewe saw us on the 38 bus (free for those with a bus pass). The diversion route into Macclesfield enabled me to be set down at the end of my drive so I only had another 100 yards to walk. So ended a great few days out. I felt a lot fitter, less stressed and my back had been forgotten. Let’s hope the bedroom did not have a Dim Sleepio sign.

29 miles in 9hrs 45 min