Wales Coast Path (Part 4)

Bosherston – Porth Clais (St Davids), 5–10th September 2019

Introduction

This was our fourth year on the Wales Coast Path. It should have happened last year but a stress fracture had prevented Phil from venturing out. But all was well now; we were both fit and ready to go. Our great friend Dot had volunteered to take us over to Wilmslow Station to catch the 10.47 to Haverfordwest. This train duly arrived on time and we found that the station in Haverfordwest was not in the centre of the town. On walking into the centre, we were directed to the bus station from which we were reliably informed, by bus drivers no less, that the bus to Pembroke departed. It was only when this failed to appear that we approached a young lady who walked us around a shopping centre to show us the correct departure point. So, now an hour behind schedule, we took the bus to Pembroke and the flat that we had booked for the next three nights. This turned out to be a splendid apartment above Long Meadow Bakery on the main street. We had time for a meal in the Old Kings Arms, roast belly pork & garlic potatoes followed by apple & blackberry crumble & ice cream, washed down with Bowled Over (4.5 %) from Wadsworth’s, and then turned in after a long day.

Thursday 5^th September 2019          Bosherston – West Angle Bay

A Day on the Ranges

Our flat was perfectly situated. The bus stop for the coastal cruiser was opposite the town hall, no more than a two-minute walk down the street. But we had to be up and ready for the 08.42 morning service. This arrived spot on time. And lo and behold, the driver was Gordon, the guy who had picked us up two years ago from the end of our previous expedition. It was like meeting an old friend as conversation flowed between Gordon and his passengers. Before 9 o’clock, we were back at Bosherston and ready to walk. This time however we did not have heavy packs on. We could travel light for two days, with our kit left in our Pembroke apartment.

We set off towards Broad Haven and the point we had left the coast path in 2017. This time we walked through the lily ponds which looked magical in the morning sunshine. Crossing the beach, we soon gained the car park at Trefalen and our journey round the Welsh coast, after a two year gap, recommenced. We had a brief and wonderful cliff walk around to St Govan’s Chapel, a tiny ruin of a church clinging to the cliff-face, hidden from view down some steep uneven steps. We met a South African couple who were on holiday with their dogs. After climbing back up to the top of the cliffs we were met by a soldier, a red flag and a no entry sign. The Castlemartin ranges were firing and were closed to walkers. The diverted route involved a return by road to Bosherston and then a series of tracks and lanes around the edge of the firing range. The route was waymarked as the Castlemartin Range Trail, an off-road alternative along field paths and grass verges with the sound of gun fire in the distance.

At Merrion we were back on the road that ran as straight as a die passed the camp. At the main entrance were two old WW2 tanks, one a German tank presented by the departing German Panzer Division based here for 35 years. We stuck to the road as far as Castlemartin village where we stopped for a short rest. Then more field paths took us onto the road above Gupton Farm as the dramatic view of Freshwater West unfolded. We had a sumptuous beef burger, smothered in kelpchup, from a mobile kiosk, Café Mor. This gave us added energy to traverse a five-mile section of cliffs to West Angle Bay. We arrived with 15 minutes to spare to catch the bus, driven as always by Gordon, back to Pembroke.

Bosherston dep. 08.58, Trefalen 09.30, West Angle Bay arr. 15.55  

16.97 miles GPS in 6hr 16m 42s walking time plus 40 minutes at Freshwater West at Café Mor.

We ate in the Royal George, Pembroke. I had battered hake, chips & peas followed by jam & coconut sponge & ice cream. The beer was Wainwright (4.1%) from Thwaites.

Friday 6^th September 2019            West Angle Bay – Pembroke Dock

Block Houses and Power Stations

The same bus at the same time with the same driver took us back to West Angle Bay in the morning. A full commentary from Gordon added to the pleasure of the journey. We learnt more about the German Panzer Division based at Castlemartin and the National Trust farm at Gupton. During the night a wind had arisen and when some passengers tried to get off the bus at Freshwater West, they were blown back by the blast. At West Angle, the sand was driving across the car park making walking very unpleasant until we were onto the headland with the wind behind us. We had not expected any refreshments today but we had only been walking for half an hour when there in front of Chapel Bay fort was a ‘café open’ sign leading us into the fort and its museum. This provided us with a surprising and substantial breakfast.

Suitably reinvigorated, we were ready to tackle the long day ahead. The coast path continued around Angle Point before cutting back into Angle village via the Old Point House pub. It took an age to circumnavigate Angle Bay, the view being dominated by the oil refinery ahead. The field path emerged onto a tarmac road which led back to the coast at Popton Fort. From here the refinery was out of sight and hidden except for pipe lines running down to the jetty. The sky was darkening and there was a threat of rain as we turned inland to the delightful old church at Pwllcrochan. A wooded path skirted the power station which is one of the largest gas-fired stations in Europe. A shower of rain made us pause to don waterproofs but these were not worn for long. The village of Hundleton is by-passed by the footpath which loops back to the coast before emerging in Monkton. A mile of urban pavements brought us to the castle at Pembroke and the bridge across the river.

Rather cruelly we marched on passed a waterside café but the end on the day was in sight. A climb through some woods led to another suburb, Pennar, and a very steep road led up to a wonderful viewpoint over Pembroke Dock and its ferry port. A poorly signed section led us steeply down into the town and we walked passed the imposing walls of the fort and on to the Asda supermarket, the end of our day’s walk. A straight road back into the town centre took us to the train station and the adjoining bus stop. It was a ten minute bus ride back to Pembroke Town Hall and our home for the duration.  The weather had cleared and, after our showers, we walked back to the river under a cloudless sky. It was our last night in Pembroke.

West Angle Bay dep. 09.36, Pembroke Dock arr. 16.30

17.77 miles GPS in 6hr 04m 31s moving time plus a 40minute (10.20 –11.00) stop in the café at Chapel Bay Fort.

We ate at the Watermans Arms, Pembroke. Chicken, bacon and mushroom puff with chips, followed by syrup sponge & ice cream. The beer was Landlords (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor

Saturday 7^th September 2019           Pembroke Dock – Dale

Waiting for Low Tide

Our third and final early morning bus ride took us in the opposite direction. The bus back to Pembroke Dock went from in front of Pembroke Castle and soon dropped us at the station. We were in no hurry today because of the tides, so we had a leisurely breakfast in the Hasty Bite café. Then we retraced our steps of yesterday back to Asda and regained the line of the coast path. Just before the Cleddau Bridge, we past the burnt-out buildings that had until recently been a large hotel. Up on the bridge, the path shared the pavement with cyclists, some of which were serious and fast-moving. The sun was out now and it was getting really warm. We reached the north side of the viaduct and were able to slip down the side of the road and onto a narrow woodland path which eventually brought us out into Neyland. This looked as if it had seen better days and we were glad to get through the quiet streets and into Hazelbeach and the short climb passed Llanstadwell church.

A brief rehydration break was called outside the Ferry Inn, a pub in a lovely setting, but which was closed at this early hour. So on we pressed uphill and passed another oil refinery. The oil pipelines leading down to the sea were crossed on enclosed caged walkways. At the end of the industrialised section of coastline, the route turned inland back to the road at Venn Farm and then dropped down to Black Bridge and into Milford Haven. This was a more pleasant place than I had expected with grand houses on the seafront and a bustling town centre of shops, hotels and b&bs. We had lunch at the Bus Stop Cafe, pulled pork panini and cappuccino. Here we studied the tide tables at some length. We had two estuaries to cross this afternoon and could save ourselves long diversions by hitting a time window around low tide.

With high tide at 1pm, I planned to arrive at the first of these crossings at 4pm. It was such an easy walk around the clifftops that we actually arrived at Sandy Haven at 3.45pm, and sure enough the stepping stones and footbridge were underway. But the tide was receding fast and we were able to follow the retreating water’s edge out into the river where submerged structures were becoming visible. It was nearly 5pm before we splashed across through half an inch of water and up onto the western shore. We rang ahead to warn our landlady that we would be late arriving in Dale and we set out on a 5½ mile cliff top walk round to the second of the estuaries. This of course was completely water-free but the direct route took us across an ankle breaking stony beach which took its toll on Phil’s knees. A notice board had warned us that the boardwalks across the stream had been damaged in a storm but a couple on the beach told us that repairs had been affected. So we pressed on and crossed with dry feet to find ourselves a mile or so from Dale village. It was just 7pm as we entered the village and we were relieved to see the Allenbrook name on a gate. We walked up a shaded drive to a wonderful country house in beautiful gardens with peacocks and rare breed hens roaming around: an idyllic place to stay. Elizabeth enquired whether we had made a table reservation at the Griffin. We had not, so she rang through to make us a booking and we showered and changed in record speed time and by 8pm we were eating in a lovely but very busy pub.

Pembroke Dock dep. 09.52, Dale arr. 19.00

19.03miles in 6hrs 48m 02s walking time plus a 40 min lunch stop at the Bus Stop Café in Milford Haven and a 70 min wait for the tide at Sandy Haven (15.45 - 14.55).

We stayed at Allenbrook Country House at Dale and ate at the Griffin Inn. I had cod and chips with pints of Cwrw Haf (4.1%) from Evan Evans Brewery (Llandeilo) and Rev James Original (4.5%) from Brains.

Sunday 8^th September 2019             Dale – Broad Haven

The Cafeless Society

It was a magnificent morning: cool and clear with an almost cloudless sky. Our wonderful host, Elizabeth, cooked us a full Welsh breakfast which we supplemented with toast and coffee. There was to be no coffee shop or beach kiosk today. This was to be one of the longest and remotest sections of the entire week. It started easily enough with a ramble passed the pub and up the access road to the fort and Dale Point. This led to a lovely section of cliff path round headland after headland, West Blockhouse Point and St Anne’s Head. This was a turning point for us. After years of heading west, we would now be making progress northwards and homewards. After six miles we ended up close to our starting point: Dale village was just on our right. A steady climb up a long set of steps led us passed a wartime airfield then passed Marloes Sands and Gateholm Island and onward to the tiny harbour of Martin’s Haven. People were waiting on the jetty for boat trips to Skomer Island.

We were really heading north now, with the entire reach of St Brides Bay laid out before us. St Davids Head, some 30 miles away seemed within touching distance. We saw choughs and ravens throwing themselves around in the breeze. The sun blazed from a blue and cloudless sky and it was exhilarating. After seeing so few people it came as shock to turn round a headland and descent into St Brides, which consisted of little more than a car park and public conveniences. So there was nothing for it but to keep going. Another remote and empty section of cliffs was interrupted by a deep valley, ensuring that our climbing muscles were repeatedly tasked. Suddenly, there was Broad Haven ahead, little white houses brilliant in the sunshine. It looked so close but a man walking a dog (his control of the dog was exemplary) estimated it was at least 3 miles and a good hour away.

The final run in from Borough Head took an age, descending gradually through scrubby woodland. We decided that a mandatory rehydration break would be called at the next bench, so imagine our chagrin when, on pulling out onto a road and carpark, there was a couple ensconced on the only bench. So we descended further and almost reach Little Haven before finding a bench to rest on. All that remained was a set of steps down to the picturesque harbour, and a climb up a steep narrow and very busy lane over the next headland and into Broad Haven. The Anchor Guest House was in pole position on the esplanade. We were both exhausted after a long and demanding day.

Dale dep. 08.45, Broad Haven arr. 17.25

19.37 miles GPS walking time in 8hr 09m 51s walking time plus a couple of short breaks for mandatory hydration.

We stayed at the Anchor Guesthouse and ate at the Galleon just down the road.  I had fish and chips and mushy peas, then pancakes, maple syrup & ice cream. The beer was Brains Original so I switched to a large glass of rioja.

Monday 9^th September 2019            Broad Haven  – Solva

A Short Day of Rain

The forecast was poor. A weather front was coming through West Wales and was due to hang around for most of the day. It had rained heavily during the night but was easing off as we finished our cooked breakfast, chatted to Helen, the owner of the Anchor Guesthouse, and left Broad Haven via the cliff-top path. There were some big ups and downs as we made our way northwards across the edge of low cliffs. A party of ramblers from Herefordshire, mostly women, chattered their way towards us. A steep path took us down to a road and the hotel at Druidston Haven and then of course the inevitable climb took the path over a rollercoaster section to Nolton Haven. It was getting warm now and waterproofs had been shed. Another group from Hereford went past, part of the same party who wanted a longer day’s walk.

The walk over to Newgale was not so taxing and in no time the sands of Newgale were laid out before us. We slowly made our way down to a road which we followed to sea level. Like an oasis in a dessert, there was a café sign in front of us, and like an oasis in a dessert, it soon disappeared behind closed doors.  Onwards down a mile of road we found another café sign, this one pointing into a surfing shop. This was also closed. Two desperate men crawled across the bridge at the end of the beach; it had been two days since we had passed an open café. At last our prayers were answered. The Sands, a superb little coffee shop, was open for business and for Cornish pasties and cappuccinos.

The 5½ mile section to Solva involved two more monumental descents and climbs across narrow valleys, a meeting with a third party from Hereford and a chat with a lone girl who, although travelling with the other three groups, preferred to be alone. It all looked plain sailing as we approached Solva, the upper part of the village seeming enticing close. But there was a sting in the tail. A dramatic drop back to sea level, a crossing of a shingle beach and another steep climb lay between us and our destination. At last we were on a narrow ridge between two valleys, heading inland beside a fjord-like estuary. A gentle descent through the trees provided us with a view of the lovely harbour of Solva. There were three pubs and the second we came to was our accommodation for the night. We arrived early enough for quick showers and time for Phil to try some of the beers in the Ship and for me to find a tea-shop.

Broad Haven dep. 09.30, Solva arr.15.30

11.22 miles in 5hrs 00m 30s walking time plus a 30 min stop at the Sands Café at Newgale for Cornish pasties.

We stayed at the Ship in Solva. We had a quick pint of Gower Gold in the Cambrian before going back to the Harbour Inn for a lamb Rogan josh followed by apple & blackberry tart & ice cream. The beers were pretty undrinkable so I was early onto the wine, this time the pinotage.

Tuesday 10^th September 2019          Solva  - Porth Clais (St Davids)

Pilgrimage Completed

Breakfast was at 8.30am so we were a little late in getting away from Solva and onto the short section of cliffs to St Davids. We had a bus to catch so, on this beautiful morning, I kept us focussed on the matter in hand even during our short stop at St Non’s Bay to take final photographs and chat to a couple from Stockport. With the new chapel, the old ruined church and the statue to the Blessed Virgin, it felt very much like the end of a pilgrimage. But the true finish was yet to come. We pounded round the final headland at Porth Claise and dropped through shrub and gorse to the little beach and car park. We had made it with ten minutes to spare.

At 12.10pm exactly a little bus rolled down the road and disgorged its load of passengers. It then trundled down narrow lanes with grass growing up the middle over to St Justinians. There were so many people waiting to get on that we could have filled two buses so it was a relief when a second bus turned up. We continued up the road towards St Davids and dismounted at the lower entrance to the Cathedral and Bishops Palace. A glorious hour was spent in and around the two buildings which looked resplendent in the sunshine. It truly was a moment to contemplate our walk, nearly 100 miles in six days. It was a rare privilege to end a walk at such a special and magical place.

Solva dep. 09.25, Porth Clais arr.11.58

6.16 miles GPS in 2hrs 24m 14s.

Conclusion

The need to get home was now pressing so, after a quick cup of coffee, we leapt onto the T11 bus to Haverfordwest. We had just enough time for a snack in Costa’s before walking to the station to catch the 15.23 train to Wilmslow. Jill was back from her trip to Canada so was able to collect us from the train and take us home to Macclesfield. Another great adventure had come to an end with 92 miles walked on our 880 mile trip round the Welsh Coast. Only 530 miles to go.

Southern Upland Way (Part 1)

Portpatrick – Sanquhar    10^th – 14^th June 2019

Introduction

Mike and I have now been enjoying our annual springtime walk for at least 25 years. With LEJOG well and truly finished, Mike offered to accompany me on my quest to walk the national trails. The Scottish Borders have always provide us with some wonderful walking so it was time to tackle the longest and possibly most challenging of all the Scottish walks, the Southern Upland Way. Planning a five day expedition proved more problematic than I expected, with complex transport issues and restricted accommodation and eating opportunities. In the end we decided to take a car to Dumfries and abandon it for five days. This gave us the flexibility we need to get to the start and from the finish point. The availability of the b&b’s and hotels decided the dates.

Monday 10^th June 2019                    Portpatrick – Knockquhassen

Crowning a Late Start

Mike’s wife drove him over to Macclesfield so we could set off in good time for a lunchtime bus from Dumfries. We had a very bad start when, whilst searching for a space in Whitesands car park, a guy in a Chelsea tractor backed into my beloved Insignia and put his tow bar through the passenger door. I was distraught as we locked up the damaged car and waited for our bus. I had a long time to calm down, the bus to Stranraer taking over two and a half hours. We had 15 minutes to wait for the local bus to Portpatrick and, by 5pm, we were standing on the sea front, blinking at the white-walled houses around the harbour in the evening sunshine. Before we set off walking, we had a meal at the Crown Hotel, Portpatrick. No evening meal was available at our b&b so we had to stoke up whilst we could. I had cod & chips followed by apple pie & custard. The beer was exceptional, Fog Horn (4.6%) from Portpatrick Brewery. This proved the best beer of the week.

By 6.30pm we were fully refreshed so we took our start-of-walk photographs and set off up the cliff steps passed an imposing hotel. All that height was then lost as the path descended steeply down to sea-level over some awkward and slippery rocks. We missed the correct exit from the beach and found ourselves above the cliff-top path. But we traversed rough ground and were soon back on-route and heading for the lighthouse on Black Head. There were several miles of road-walking along the lighthouse access road and passed Knock & Maize. Grass in the surrounding fields was being cut in the late evening sunshine. It was a shock to hear about the appalling weather back home with torrential rain and floods in Cheshire. Eventually the route took to tracks and paths which lead out across Broad Moor. Some very boggy sections resulted in wet feet rather earlier in the walk than we expected. As we came off the moor, the b&b was immediately in front of us. In the last of the light, we stood in the beautifully-situated breakfast room and watched a barn owl coming in and out of its barn-based owl box.

Portpatrick dep. 18.32, Knockquhassen arr. 21.08

GPS 7.02 miles in 2hrs 44mins 30secs

We stayed at Knockquhassen Farm

Tuesday 11^th June 2019                Knockquhassen – New Luke

Ferreting Round a Castle

We were in no hurry today with a flattish route in prospect and early sunshine. The first three miles or so were on quiet lanes and then a short woodland path took us into a housing estate at Castle Kennedy. Butties were purchased at the service station on the A75 and then we were in the tree-lined drive leading up to Castle Kennedy Gardens. Superb views were to be had of Lochinch Castle over the White Loch. Turning into the car park, we found we could get access to the tea room without entering the gardens. A scone cream tea gave us the energy to continue on to the more hilly part of the day, but as we passed back through the car park we were distracted for a few minutes by a lady taking two ferrets, on leads, for a walk. Then we began the ascent past Chlenry up over a high moor and onto a mountain road.

Not far along the tarmac, the route turned right along a forestry track and then left beside a wall on a grassy path along the northern edge of the plantation. A cuckoo was in full voice in the nearby trees and then, joy of joys, there just ahead flew a pair of the large grey birds. At the eastern end of this section the path turned into a pine forest and dropped steeply to a railway line. Here it turned parallel to the railway track on a very indistinct trod, stepping over windblown trees as we went. Then we crossed the railway on a narrow footbridge and descended to the Water of Luce which again we crossed by footbridge. A steep bank then led up to a lane near Cruise where we stopped for a short refreshment break.

We were now faced with a decision. We could drop straight into the village of New Luce or we could take the high loop round to the far side and then cut back to the village. As time was on our side we took the longer option and got the climbing out of the way and reduce some of tomorrow’s mileage. It worked out superbly with a lovely straight grassy track across the moor to Kilhern where a left turn led down beside a small plantation and onto the lane. We were outside Rainbows End in New Luce by 5pm, the time I had arranged with our landlady. We waited at the gate as instructed so that we could meet the Great Dane before we entered the house. It was bigger than me so I was taking no chances. It sat slobbering behind me all through the meal. Mike went for a stroll through the village on this very pleasant evening. Then we rang home to hear of more rain and floods in England.

Knockquhassen dep. 09.34, New Luce arr. 17.00 

GPS 17.82 miles in 6hrs 29 mins 52 secs walking with 30 mins (12.15- 12.45) with a cappuccino and scones, jam & cream in the tea rooms at Castle Kennedy and a 15 mins break (15.15-15.30) near Cruise.

We stayed with Celia and her Great Dane at Rainbows End in New Luce. She cooked us a wonderful meal of roast pork, potatoes & red cabbage with banana loaf and crème fraiche for a dessert.

Wednesday 12^th June 2019   New Luce – Bargrennan

Tilting at Windmills

We retraced our steps the next morning and, by 9.00am, we were heading up the lane towards the wind turbines. Just beyond Balmurrie, the route deviates from the original straight line.  We were directed left up a track and then right over a trackless hillside, trying desperately to locate the SUW marker posts. In misty conditions this may be a real concern. It was difficult enough on a clear cool morning. But after a few false forages, we crested the moor and a huge wind farm and forestry plantation opened up in front of us. Initially the path through a forest was grassy and pleasant but then it turned into a stony rubble track. We could only think that the excess waste from the wind farm foundations had been spread on our path by way of disposal. Whatever, it made for very unpleasant walking. We stopped briefly at the Beehive Bothy for a few nibbles and a drink of water and then again at the Laggangarn Standing Stones for some photographs. Then it was back to more uncomfortable rubble-topped trails that contoured the hillside beneath the new generators. It was a relief to shin up through the woodland and onto the summit of Craig Airie Fell which, at just over 1000ft, gave us great views of the surrounding countryside.

Then it was down, down all the way on paths and forest track to Derry where the route became a tarmac lane which after two miles or so came out onto a road near Knowe. Here a lady called from a cottage window, asking us if we needed anything. But we declined her kind offer and pressed on over another ill-defined section of rough ground before emerging onto a lane near Glenruther Lodge. A plod up this lane took us passed a farm and onto a pathless hillside, once more following SUW posts where visible. It seemed a long way at the end of a long day across Glenvernoch Fell and down passed woodland plantations to the road at Garchew. Here a group of farmers were gathering their flocks of sheep for dipping or shearing. The last mile of the day was across featureless rough pasture following guideposts that were hard to spot. We finally dropped down to a road, busy by Galloway standards, and crossed the river bridge and slowly climbed up to the House O’Hill Hotel at Bargrennan. The room was stuffy and you could not open the windows for fear of a midge invasion. But we were made most welcome in the bar. It was still raining back home.

New Luce  dep. 08.48, Bargrennan  arr.16.40

GPS 19.34 in 7hrs 24mins 30secs walking time with a short break at the Beehive Bothy.

We stayed in the House O’Hill Hotel, Bargrennan. I ate chicken curry & rice followed by  sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. The beer was Bright Idea (3.8%) from Five Kingdoms  Brewery on the Isle of Whithorn.

Thursday 13^th June 2019                  Bargrennan – Dalry
Midges Galore

We asked for an early breakfast as it was going to be a long day. Other walkers last night had pointed out that today’s route was considerably longer than indicated in the guidebook, and that was long enough. Soon after 8.30am we were out into the midges on a warm and clammy morning, but amazingly still no rain. Returning to the river bridge, we picked up the waymarked route though woodland on a narrow path that followed the river. After almost two miles of heading south, the path turned eastwards to pick up the Water of Trool. Thence we were heading in the right direction. A long section beside the river, crossing it a one point, led on good quality paths through woodland and water meadows. As we neared the loch, we came across a cark park which explained where all the dog walkers came from. Then the path began to climb.

Up and down we went, still in woodland but totally hidden from the river and loch. Then suddenly we descended sharply and there was Loch Trool in all its glory. The path then ran on a high shelf along the south side of the loch, passing an information board describing the details of the Battle of Loch Trool. At the end of the loch, we were faced with a steep climb up to a magnificent viewpoint. We stopped for our morning break and then dropped down to the house at Glenhead. Here we became confused. The guidebook and maps showed that the SUW crosses the river and climbs pathless hillsides to gain the top of the pass. However all the way-marking indicated that we were to stay on the main track. It seemed a long haul to the top of Glenhead Burn but a fabulous view unfolded as we crest the pass. Loch Dee with its sandy beaches, gleaming in the sunshine, was a lovely sight. The wide track wound round its shore, passing at one point White Laggan Bothy lying several hundred meters back from the loch in a gap in the trees. Crossing the upper reaches of the River Dee, the track continued through clear-felled country to reach Clatteringshaws Loch where we sat on a high rock and had a bite to eat. The midges descended on us and started easting me alive. It was several weeks before my legs fully recovered. This curtailed our rest and drove us onwards into the last section of the day.

From a pickup point on a quiet lane, we found ourselves in rough country, passing along the edge of thick pine plantations and climbing up narrow rides through the trees. Emerging onto an open moor, the route was inadequately waymarked and it was more by good luck than judgement that we found ourselves still on line on the descent to the remote farm at Clenrie. Then it was farm tracks and tarmac for more than 3 miles before we came to the sting in the tail. The route left the road along a walled path beside a stream, crossed the stream over a wooden footbridge, and then proceeded through flooded water meadows where we might as well have been in the stream. With wet feet, we were faced with a steep scramble up Waterside Hill from the summit of which our first view of Dalry was to be had. It was a magnificent grassy descent in the sunshine and then a delightful riverside path into town with the church high up on the far bank. A sturdy modern footbridge took us across the Water of Ken and into town. Our pub was almost the first building we came to. When we rang home, our folks, battling storms and torrential rain, could not believe our luck with the weather.

Bargrennan dep. 08.35, Dalry arr. 19.01

GPS 26.29 miles in 10hrs 04mins 43secs walking time with 10min breaks at Glenhead and Clatteringshaws. Note that the day’s mileage is two miles further than the distance given in the guidebook and websites. The official mileage must be based on the short option through Glentrool Village.

We stayed at the Clachan Inn, Dalry. I had pork belly followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. My first pint was Yellowhammer (4.0%) from Black Isle Brewery. Then it was Scaur O’ Doon (3.6%) from my old friends at Ayr Brewing Co.

Friday 14^th June 2019                       Daldry – Sanquhar

High Point of the Week

Today was to be even longer than yesterday so we breakfasted as soon as we could and got an early start, pausing only to buy a sandwich from the petrol station before heading up the main street, onward up a long track and out onto the moor. We struggled to get the right line across to Ardoch Farm but then had the plantation boundary to guide us around Ardoch Hill, where an awkward diversion through some new fences had to be negotiated. Then came another featureless section, navigating from post to post to find the correct line. The compass was consulted several times before we picked up the line of a road to our right.  This led us onto a wide track that took us to Butterhole Bridge and the junction with the path from the youth hostel.

It was another lovely morning with just the odd dark cloud carrying a threat of rain. As we crested Culmark Hill, views to the north and west opened up revealing a range of hills the existence of which we had been entirely unaware. It was more like orienteering than long distance walking but we eventually spotted Culmark Farm below us and navigation got more straight-forward. The road at Stroanpatrick is another of the pickup points should a shorter day be required. But we were going the whole way so another moorland section had to be tackled. The correct line became clearer as the forest came over the horizon. An uphill plod threaded its way into a steadily narrowing gap between the trees. On a forest track a white truck was parked up. We were soon to find out why. Our first break of the day came on the summit of Manquhill Hill and whilst we ate our butties, a group of Duke of Edinburgh students from Ayr filed passed. The white van was, it seems the vehicle of a support teacher. As we moved down from our lunch spot, two more groups came by, both from the same school. Then we were on the grassy depression below the big climb of the day.

The slog up Benbrack was accompanied by some drizzle blowing in on the wind: but only for a few minutes. Photographs were taken of the stone arch and its companion on the next hill. Then a glorious high level ridge walk led to Black Hill and beyond into the pine forest. A strange loop to the memorial stone at Allan’s Cairn, took in a narrow forest trod and some tricky underfoot conditions. Then it was down steeply onto a wide and dusty forestry road and the best of the section was behind us. Just beyond the bothy at Polskeoch, the tarmac was reached and another halt was called. We needed to find some strength from somewhere to tackle the denouement of our week. So it was back to one more section of careful navigation and pole-spotting. This gradually took us up across the grain of the hillside until a gate in a new deer fence led over Cloud Hill where the most glorious view waited for us. There, some four miles ahead, glittering in the evening sunshine, lay our final destination, the lovely town of Sanquhar. The descent seemed to go on for ever, with our target seemly getting no nearer. But the valley was eventually reached and the rivers crossed. At the point where the SUW turned off for a loop round the town, we abandoned the official route until next year. We walked slowly up the road and headed straight for the station. Thus finished two of the longest walking days for many a year.  

Dalry dep. 08.27, Sanquhar Station arr. 20.00

GPS 26.69 miles in 11hrs 01mins 35secs walking time with 15min breaks at Manquhill Hill and at Dalgonar near Polskeoch.

Conclusion

The train arrived after half an hour and half an hour after that, we were having a cup of coffee in Dumfries. Then we set off in search of the river and our car and changed out of our dusty clothes. The drive home was eventless with a short stop at Tebay Services. By 1am, Mike was safely home and I was parking up in Macclesfield soon afterwards. I was too sweaty and dirty to climb into bed without a wash so I chanced waking up the house by turning on the shower at 2am. It had been a very long day.

We had walked 97 miles in what was basically 4 very long days and an evening. It proved a very tough challenge and we are hoping that we have broken the back of this trail. Next year’s plan of continuing onwards to Melrose or Lauder should not be quite so taxing.


 

The Great Glen Way

Inverness – Fort William    30^th April – 3^rd May 2019

Introduction

Before I could set out, I had a scibar to organise and oversee. I left the Park Tavern as soon as the event had finished, walked swiftly home, finished packing my rucksack and changed into my walking gear. Then Jill took me to Wilmslow Station for the last train of the day to Crewe and I sat on an almost deserted platform waiting for the Caledonian Sleeper. The train was running over an hour late and did not arrive into Crewe until after 1am. I flopped into my seat, desperate for warmth and rest. The train ran speedily through the night picking up much of its lost time on its way to Edinburgh. All was well until it left Perth and onto the single-track line to the north. Here we seemed to lose all priority and we were stacked in several loops whilst up-trains rushed by. It took us an age to trundle the last few miles into Inverness, an hour late and with many connections  missed.

However this was the end of the line for me and, as there was no food proffered me on board, I walked into town to find a good breakfast. The Rendezvous Café sufficed and I felt much more positive as I climbed up to the castle to pay my respects to Flora MacDonald and then locate the start of the Great Glen Way. I set off down to the river much later than I had originally intended.

Tuesday 30^th April 2019                   Inverness – Drumnadrochit

A Drum, a Drum

The weather was bright and sunny but a chill wind blew along the river. I crossed the footbridge and onto the path round Whin Park where I stopped briefly to take off my tracksuit bottoms. It was warm enough to walk in shorts for the next three days. The route went all the way round the end of the playing fields, passing the botanical gardens and under a busy road. Then I was on a canal tow-path for half a mile before setting out across fields towards new housing developments. They seemed to be building everywhere at this end of town. The path started to rise up towards Great Glen House which, from close up, looks an interesting modernistic design but from a distance looks a monstrosity.

I was sweating now, even in a singlet and shorts, as I climbed steeply up through woodland and out onto a forest track which contoured round the back of the ridge. Eventually I could see houses and a road below me to the left and, after another uphill loop, the path began a long gentle descent to this road. A few miles on tarmac were good for the average pace but I was glad to come to a kissing gate on the right and a sign to a café. A narrow woodland path, through lovely native trees, brought me to Abriachan Eco-camp and its outdoor café. Here I enjoyed a milky coffee and the largest piece of lemon cake I have ever faced. I sat with a young couple, he from Edinburgh and she from the Snowy Mountains near Canberra. Sandra, the eco-camp owner, took our photo together and I was later able to see this on their Facebook page. I was reluctant to leave but time was pressing and I still had seven miles to go.

I missed a left-hand turn and had to backtrack from a farmyard. But this only cost me a few minutes and I was soon striding downhill on the long descent to lake-level. It was all pretty featureless until I suddenly came out of the trees and there was Urquhart Castle on a point across an inlet in Loch Ness. I was surprised how low and close to the water it was. I had expected it to be more dominant and spectacular. The trail then came down to the main road, keeping in a field for a short while and finally taking to the pavement and a long tramp into town. As I crossed the bridge over the river, I found myself immediately in the village green and there was my b&b. Crewe station seemed a long way away and it had been a long day.

Inverness Station dep. 09.30, Inverness Castle dep. 10.30, Drumnadrochit arr. 17.45

GPS 20.76 miles in 6hrs 54mins 04secs walking time plus 45 mins in Rendezvous Café (09.45-10.30) in Inverness and 45 mins at Abriachan Eco-Camp (14.45-15.30).

I stayed at Morlea B&B, Village Green, Drumnadrochit and ate at the Fiddlers almost next door. I ate pork belly with Stornoway black pudding and a whisky sponge pudding and ice cream. A couple of pints of Kowabunga Pale Ale (4.6%) from Cromarty Brewing were quickly dispatched. I finished with a half of Darkness (4.4%) from Loch Ness Brewery.

Wednesday 1st May 2019             Drumnadrochit – Fort Augustus

I’ll Take the High Road

I visited the village shop before setting off in the morning. Then it was a very flat and urban mile along the main road passed the school and over a second river in the valley.  The route turned inland beside this river for another half-mile before rearing up in my face. Towards the top of this very steep climb I met a woman coming down toward me, obviously a fit and serious walker. Lorna Hodgkinson told me she had come all the way for Milngavie and was hoping to finish this evening in Inverness. I wished her luck and promised to add a few bob to her charity, Northwest Blood  Bikes Lancashire and Lakes.

There followed a very long section of tarmac which finished rather satisfactorily with a café, in Loch Ness Clay Works Pottery, a dark and dismal cottage in a woodland clearing. Here I was royally entertained by Joss Wynne Evans who made me a coffee and cut a lovely piece of whisky-flavoured fruit cake. I was impressed by his latest book on the poetry of Nicholas Snowden Willey. I finally dragged myself away, followed the grassy track through the garden and re-joined the official trail in a light and airy forest. A delightful contouring track took me to a choice of routes. Being me, it had to be the high route. And I was so pleased with my choice because the steep climb brought me to a fabulous viewpoint over Loch Ness. Then there was a humungous drop to a river and a rather featureless climb across deforested slopes out of sight of the loch. I then came to a stunning piece of natural sculpture, ‘The Viewcatcher’ made of Caledonian pine branches. The view was westwards towards snow-topped mountains in the distance. A steep descent along zigzagging tracks deposited me quickly into Invermoriston and a sign to another café. It really is very difficult to make good time with all these distractions. I enjoyed Victoria sponge cake and cappuccino in the Glen Rowan Café and had a welcome rest before the climbing still to come.

It took me some time to come across the start of the high route but, when I did, I certainly knew about it. The path went straight up the hillside, taking the occasional zigzag when the slope became too great. A woman coming down encouraged me with the words ‘you are nearly there now and the view is astonishing’. And astonishing it was. As I emerged from the steep wooded climb onto a fine open path, I was bowled over by the landscape before me. The entire length of Loch Ness unfolded, with steep sided hills on each side and snow-capped mountain in the distance. My one concern was the big black cloud that hid the hills ahead. I scurried along this high-level traverse, trying to beat the oncoming rain. But it caught me on the descent into Fort Augustus and I had to don waterproofs for the last 30 minutes of the day. I was delayed briefly by some road works and had to wait to be escorted along a section of re-surfaced lane on the outskirts of town. It was spot on 6pm as I pushed open the door to my hotel.

Drumnadrochit dep. 08.55, Fort Augustus  arr. 18.00 

GPS 22.01 miles in 7hrs 53 mins 44 secs walking with 45 mins (13.45- 14.15) in Loch Ness Pottery Café and 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Glen Rowan Café in Invermoriston.

I stayed at Richmond House Hotel and ate in the Lock Inn, haddock and chips followed by stick toffee pudding and ice cream. The beer was Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm Brewery.

Thursday 2^nd May 2019        Fort Augustus – Banavie

Oich and Lochy

The next morning began with a lesson in how to make waffles. Breakfast was a do-it-yourself affair and, as I had packed my reading glasses, I had to be talked through the various processes. This had the advantage of getting me on my way quickly and so, on a bright cold morning, I was soon crossing the canal lock and striding out along the wide tow-path, which was a vehicle track. I caught up with a pair of fast walkers, two Tasmanians, Helen and John, who were taking the opportunity of stretching their legs whilst their tourist boat caught them up. At the next lock, they waited for their transport and I pushed on to Bridge of Oich, a lovely old structure half hidden in trees and dominated by the new road bridge.

The route continued on the other side of the canal along the south side of Loch Oich. For much of the lakeside walk, I was on an old railway line which proved a delightful section through tunnels and cuttings with the loch to my right sometimes hidden by birch woodland and regenerated growth. Eventually, I came to the site of Invergarry station where 100 yards of track had been re-laid and a small diesel engine rested by the old platform. A project is afoot to provide  short train rides at this point. It also marked the end of this lovely section of the walk. I had now to cross the main road and pick up a riverside path that weaved through a narrow strip of woodland to reach Laggan Locks. Here was salvation after a long morning of fast walking. The Eagle is a converted Dutch barge which was moored near the locks. Inside was a pub and restaurant in a quaint narrow cabin. I took the opportunity of refuelling on coffee and scones and looked most enviously at the interesting beers on draught. What a pity I had so much further to walk. I could have drunk the afternoon away quite happily.

However, back to the task in hand. I crossed the lock and set out along a road which became a forest track along the north side of Loch Lochy. This was a very long section of the walk, at least 12 miles along a wide and featureless track with limited views of the loch. My main interest lay in talking to the parties of walkers coming towards me. There were two groups of Duke of Edinburgh students, a party of Americans who offered me a cup of tea, and several solo walkers striding solemnly passed. I had hoped to get a cup of tea at the Cameron Museum but, when I reached Bunarkaig, I found that the house was a mile back from the road. I had enough miles to cover today without adding a couple more. So on I plodded into Gairlochy and straight onto the canal tow-path. When I had first planned this walk, I had tried to get accommodation here but was pointed towards Spean Bridge nearly 3 miles away. So I bit the bullet and booked a b&b at Banavie, 6 miles beyond Gairlochy but still en route. This last six miles on the wide and open gravel road was boring and uninspiring. I did it as fast as I could, in well under two hours, and was very glad to see the top of Neptune’s Staircase, the set of locks leading down to Banavie. I rang ahead to get guidance into the b&b and was delighted to find Anastasia waiting at her front door for me. It is a long time since I had walked this far in a day.

Fort Augustus  dep. 08.34, Banavie  arr.18.00

GPS 29.23 in 9hrs 08mins 45secs walking time with a 20min break Eagle Inn at Lagan Locks.

I stayed in the Stalkers Dream, Taigh Nan Ord, Old Banavie Road. I ate at the Lochy Inn in Caol, steak and black pudding with chips followed by sticky toffee pudding and ice cream (this was very good). I had one pint of Caledonian Deucars IPA (4.4%) before it ran out. So I had to resort to a large glass on Shiraz as a dessert wine.

Friday 3^rd May 2019             Banavie – Fort William

In the Shadow of the Ben

As I had been warned, the house was empty and locked when I went down stairs in the morning. I unlocked the front door, locked it behind me and posted the keys through the letter box. The village was quiet as I slipped across the canal swing bridge, pausing briefly to glance up at the Ben which was now clear of cloud. But, boy, was it cold. I was back in tracksuit bottoms and I wished I had got out my gloves. Then it was back onto the gravel tow-path for the last mile to the sea lock, then on tarmac paths and pavements through the suburbs of Fort William. I eventually came to the end of the Great Glen Way on a piece of grass beside the town by-pass. The stone block was identical to the one in front of Inverness Castle but this had Ben Nevis looming overhead. The most difficult bit of navigation on the entire route was finding a way over the dual carriageway and into the town centre.

Banavie dep. 08.38, Fort William arr. 10.30

GPS 4.59 miles in 1hrs 43mins 24secs.

Conclusion

It was time to get some breakfast. A bacon bap and a cappuccino in Costas was very welcome. I just had time to buy a paper before the train arrived to take me to Glasgow. It was starting to rain, the wind was icy cold and I knew it was time to head for home. The trip over Rannoch Moor was spectacular, surely one of the best train trips in the country. We arrived in Queen Street bang on time and I was able to have a leisurely meal at the Drum & Monkey on St Vincent Street. (Fish and Chips, Sticky Toffee Pudding, and a couple of pints of Moonstone, a 5% ale from Hadley Brewery). I even had time for a coffee & carrot cake at the Patisserie Valerie on Central Station. Then it was onto the Virgin train south where faultless changes at Wigan and Manchester Piccadilly got me home to record speed time. It may have been a fast and furious few days but it had been 77 miles of happy memories and easy walking in a very beautiful part of the world.

 

Mary Towneley Loop & Pennine Bridleway (Part 2)

Worsthorne - Settle    19^th – 22^nd March 2019

Introduction

Last November, just before the dark nights of winter had set in, I made a start on the Pennine Bridleway. I walked for four days from Cromford to Summit, a total of 80 miles. Having sat out the winter now was the time to resume this National Trail. But there is an added complication in that completion of this trail involves the inclusion of the Mary Towneley Loop, a 47 mile circuit of the moors north of Rochdale. I therefore had to plan a completion of this circuit before pushing north on the main route.

Tuesday 19^th March 2019                 Worsthorne - Whitworth

A Foot in the Water

I was up early (for me) so that Jill could run me down to the station for the 08.02 train to Manchester. This took an age to get into Piccadilly leaving me with a very brisk walk over to Victoria and no time to grab a coffee before embarking on a train to Burnley. There was no taxi at Manchester Road Station so I walked into the town centre looking for the bus station and some transport out to the suburbs. There, I came across the taxi rank so I leapt into the taxi on pole and was in Worsthorne within 10 minutes. The village shop made me a cappuccino to take out and this I duly drank as I set off on my next venture.

My route started with a steady climb up Gorple Lane, in a straight line for 1½ miles up to the Mary Towneley Loop. I continued eastwards for a further ½ mile to the fingerpost where the Pennine Bridleway breaks out north from this loop. Then I retraced my steps and set off on an anti-clockwise circuit, heading downwards to Hurstwood Reservoir, crossing some wet pastureland before dropping steeply down slippery paths into Holme Chapel. The sound of children at play accompanied me as I passed the local school and crossed the road, river and railway in the valley bottom. The climb out of the valley was long, wet and complex and my boots were thick with mud by the time I crested the climb and came across the stone erected as a monument to Mary Towneley, the instigator of this bridle route for horse, bike and walker.

A cold wind was blowing over the tops as I sought the start of the footpath system that descended into the next valley and the village of Lumb. There was no café here so I continued onwards on semi-suburban paths on the other side of the main road. I passed through the housing estates of Edgeside and down to Waterfoot School and a tuckshop that was closed. I was beginning to despair for a coffee shop. I stopped a local and asked the vital question and was delighted when he directed me off-route to the Old Library Café, a wonderful find where I indulged in Bakewell tart and a cappuccino.

What I did not expect was the ferocity of the next climb. On concrete and then on rough stony tracks, the route went up and up into an area of disused quarries and mines. The route threaded itself between spoil heaps around the edge of a featureless plateau. It remained bleak to the Top of Leach and across Rooley Moor. As I descended southwards, it was disheartening to be heading back towards the distant Manchester skyline, especially as I was supposed to be progressing northwards. The sun was low in the sky by the time I reached Catley Lane Head where a left turn took me down through remote farms to the river in the valley bottom. Here I left the trail and went into Whitworth looking for my accommodation.

 

Worsthorne dep. 10.25, Whitworth arr. 17.45

GPS 20.18 miles in 6hrs 59mins 00secs walking time plus 30 mins at the Old Library Cafe in Waterfoot (14.45-15.15).

I stayed in the Red Lion in Whitworth where the kitchens were closed, permanently it appeared. The Birches, a pub a mile down the road, provided me with Atlantic Pale Ale (4.2%) from Sharp’s, and a wonderful Thai meal of green fish curry, cooked by a Thai woman who operates out of the pub kitchen.

 

Wednesday 20^th March 2019                    Whitworth – Hebden Bridge

Return to the Summit

There was no breakfast and no one in the Red Lion next morning. So I let myself out of the front door and posted the keys back through the letterbox. It was a damp and misty morning and I could feel water droplets on my face. The hills were hidden in the gloom as I wandered into the village looking for a sandwich but again there was nothing open. Whitworth seemed to be permanently closed. So I turned back to where I had left the trail on the previous evening and continued through Healey Dell to Broadley. The first climb of the day reared up at me and I was soon in the mist stumbling over Rushy Hill. I did not see the golf club house until I fell over it in the fog.

Here the trail signage gave out. A fingerpost was lying on the ground and a complex set of tracks ran into some old quarries. A Rossendale Way sign took me onto the path toward Brown Wardle and I had to cross rough moor to get back onto the correct track. The mist was lifting and I began to get some views. In fact the sun was breaking through and the temperature was rising. It seemed a long way before the anticipated right-hand turn was reached. I was beginning to think the signs were missing from this section. But finally I came to a fingerpost and turned east wards down into the stream that feeds Watergrove Reservoir.

The next mile to the visitors centre was very pleasant in the sunshine so I rang my daughter as I strode along. I had a quick bite of my emergency rations, my first food of the day, and sat in the ‘Life for a Life’ memorial forest, a delightful spot overlooking the reservoir. The next couple of miles were a sheer delight with undulating paths contouring round the hillside before a final pull led over a ridge and down passed cottages and farms down to the road above Summit. This was where I had finished last year. At last I felt I was about to make some progress on the Pennine Bridleway proper.

Heading north at last, the trail climbed around a series of crags, nesting sites of crows and jackdaws. Then there was a very steep zig-zag path down to the main road at Bottomley, Goodness knows how you would get a horse down this. There was no respite from the vertical. I stepped over the road, through a tiny hamlet of cottages and immediately started a steep ascent up a narrow walled track, paved with old flags. When the necessary height had been attained, the flagged route became a wonderful contour above Walsden and its factories. It was getting really hot now and I was out of water. Having not seen an open shop for over 24 hours I went in search of a clean moorland stream. I found a trickle of clear water and drank my fill. It was mighty warm for March.

The flagged route took me steadily uphill to the crest of the ridge where it bore right and eastwards. Here I had one of those ‘mirage’ moments, a starving man crawling out of a shop-less desert. Below me, glittering in the sun, was what appeared to be a pub. I sprinted down and within minutes was ordering food in the Shepherds Rest. I demolished a pulled pork baguette and threw down some Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%). I had not realised how hungry I was. Suitably refreshed, I strode out along Lumbutts Lane, quickly passing Top Brink Pub and Mankinholes Youth Hostel. Another long contour on a lovely path took me beneath Stoodley Pike to the start of the big descent into the valley below. The Bridleway went off to the right of the Pennine Way and I was soon above Hebden Bridge. So I left the trail and dropped into town looking for a coffee shop. I found a lovely cafe where I indulged in carrot cake and a cappuccino whilst the kind owners looked up the location of my b&b. It was just along the canal towpath. I could not have come out closer. Within minutes I was in my bedroom preparing for a good evening in the pub.

Whitworth dep. 08.35, Hebden Bridge  arr. 16.30 

GPS 17.92 miles in 7hrs 11mins 31secs walking with 30mins (13.45- 14.15) in Shepherds Rest then another 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Hebble End Coffee Lounge in Hebden Bridge for a carrot cake and a cappuccino.

I stayed at Riverview B&B, Stibbins Drive, Hebden Bridge. Just a few yards away was the Stubbing Wharf where I ate grilled haddock on a bed of mashed potato followed by sticky toffee pudding. The beer was Saltaire Blonde (4.0%).

 

Thursday 21^st March 2019   Hebden Bridge – Kelbrook

Bronte Country

I only met my landlady at breakfast. Susy had been working in Manchester the previous evening and I had been asleep when she arrived home. We chatted and caught up as she cooked me a lovely breakfast that was to see me through the day. I was back on the towpath before 8.45am, heading out of town and back on the Trail. The climb up from the river was steep and long but I eventually pulled out into a bleak hanging valley, with dark stone cottages clustered in small hamlets such as Jack Bridge scattered across a sloping plateau. Eventually the route broke out onto a high lane which climbed gradually onto Heptonstall Moor. From the highest point there were fine views over the reservoirs and moors beyond.

 

I briefly joined the Pennine Way as a herd of sheep were being led by a moped-mounted farmer across the wall of Gorple reservoir. As they fed beside the path, it was my turn to cross the dam. A mile or so of tarmac road led to the parking area for Widdop reservoir. The Pennine Way turned off on its way to Scotland but the Mary Towneley Loop turned west at this point and climbed steeply over Clough Head Stones. A new view opened out, a view of where I had started two days previously; Hurstwood Reservoir and Burnley beyond. An easy descent took me back to the fingerpost pointing north. Nearly 50 miles completed and I was back where I started.

It was a great feeling to be heading north once more. There was some splendid walking on dry firm undulating green hills with steep valleys and beautiful views below. I got into my stride and the miles flew passed as I crossed Extwistle Moor, dropped into the Thursden Valley and out again along the Bronte Way. Text messages were pinging in about my normal pub session back home but I had a session of my own booked in a gastro pub. First however I had a café to look forward to. A long descent brought me down to Wycoller Hall, an atmospheric set of ruins on a fast running stream crossed by old packhorse bridges. In the tiny village, the Wycoller Café was in an old cottage. It provided a cappuccino and some lovely Victoria sponge. I was feeling really strong now and was quickly back of the move, climbing the ridge of Knarrs Hill where I rested momentarily at the trig point. The high hills of Lancashire dominated the view to the north along with several wind farms. My daughter rang as I raced towards the next few lane crossings. Then it was down a steep concrete farm track into the steep-sided valley below where I joined a path that ran parallel to the stream all the way into Kelbrook and my accommodation for the evening. A long but exhilarating day.

Hebden Bridge  dep. 08.44, Kelbrook  arr.17.30

GPS 24.38 in 8hrs 21mins 40secs walking time with a 20min break at Wycoller.

I stayed in the Craven Heifer, Kelbrook, had a lovely room and a top class meal of roast pork tenderloin on a bed of mashed potato. The mustard sauce was gorgeous. I finished with sticky toffee pudding and custard (served in a separate bowl). I enjoyed pints of Cocker Hoop (4.6%) from Jennings and Thwaites Wainwright (4.1%).

 

Friday 22^nd March 2019       Kelbrook – Settle

The Ribble Valley

Having had a good night’s sleep, I was up and about bright and early. By 7.30am I was breakfasting on a ‘full English’, and by 8.15am I was out of the door and on my way. The day was grey and damp with a threat of rain. I walked over the fields out of Kelbrook to re-join the trail and turn towards my final goal, an afternoon train home from Settle. The first part of the route was therefore most frustrating. Instead of heading north, it crossed the main road south of Barnoldswick and headed south west. At one point there were views over Colne and Nelson, spectacular but not those I wanted to see. So it was a relief when I reached the road to Weets House and turned toward my final destination. A five mile straight lane over hill and down dale dropped me into the outskirts of Gisburn. I knew of a coffee shop in the village and I was not going to miss this opportunity, so I crossed a field containing solar panels and found the busy deli where I sat for a few minutes and demolished a Bakewell pudding with my cappuccino.

Then I returned to the trail and follow it through Gisburne Estate and its magnificent old house, now a hospital. The route then followed the verge of the main road before diverting away to cross the Ribble at Paythorne Bridge. The pub in Paythorne was open; what a pity I have just had a refreshment break. The section over Paythorne Moor was very pleasant. Some of it had been left as unimproved wetland and the moorland birds were in full throated roar. The larks were ascending and the curlews were gargling. This was over soon enough and then a different type of land had to be crossed, where open farmland, poorly signed, had to be traversed. I found myself in an appallingly kept farm with sludge runoff a foot deep. Obviously walkers were not welcome here. Out onto the lane, good progress was made to Cow Bridge and beyond where, at the edge of Long Preston, I took the opportunity of skipping through narrow lanes and missing the horrendously busy A-road.

It was well after 2.00pm and I was beginning to keep an eye on the time. A fingerpost said that Settle was 5½ miles away and my train was due before 4.30pm. My map indicated a much shorter passage but it kept me striding out on the long lane over Hunter Bark. The final mile into Settle was down a very steep hill and the sky in the west was thickening with oncoming cloud and rain. I got down just before the drizzle started, had a kind soul take my photograph in the market place and, as I had 50 minutes before the train, I shot across the road and into the nearest café. The middle stage of the Pennine Walkway was complete. 83 miles in four days. I was happy with that.

Kelbrook dep. 08.15, Settle arr. 15.30

GPS 21.19 miles in 6hrs 58mins 12secs walking time plus 15 min break for cappuccino and Bakewell pudding in the deli in Gisburn.

 

Conclusion

It was drizzling quite hard as I waited for the train on Settle Station. I could not have timed it any better. I had had four days walking without getting a soaking and was now on my way home and still dry. But not quite home. The trains in Leeds were in chaos: the direct line to Manchester was closed. There were so many cancellations and trains running late that the platforms were knee deep in passengers. I squeezed onto a late running train having no idea where it was going. The on-board signs said Liverpool, the people thought it was Manchester Airport via Victoria and half way across the Pennines the line reopened and we were brought into Piccadilly. Accepting the bonus, I caught an earlier connection than expected and was soon being greeted by Jill at Macclesfield Station. I was pleased that I had got as far as Settle. It makes the planning of the last stage of the trail so much easier. I can now return by train to Settle, whizz round the Settle Loop (10 miles) and still be in Kirby Stephen in four days walking. I am looking forward to the challenge.

 

 

Pennine Bridleway (Part 1)

Cromford - Summit    29^th October – 1^st November 2018

Introduction

The winter is on its way. Storm Callum has taken out one of our trees at home and the first cold snap has left its mark on the garden. Could I squeeze one more walk in before the dark nights? There was just a window of opportunity in the week after the clocks had gone back so I went for the Pennine Bridleway, a local and easily accessible national trail which I knew very little about.  Publications on the route are sparse. The website offers limited practical information and a guidebook for the southern section is out-of-print. I got hold of a second-hand copy, booked some accommodation and set off into the dark in more ways than one.

Monday 29^th October 2018               Cromford - Hurdlow

Inclined to the High Peak

It had been a very cold weekend but Monday dawned dry and settled so I turned down an offer of a lift and walked down to the bus station to catch the early bus to Buxton. I had time for a bacon bap & coffee before I went in search of the Transpeak bus which leaves from the railway station. The trip through Derbyshire was long but it was interesting to watch the locals gravitating towards the market towns of Bakewell and Matlock.  At last, with half the morning gone, I dismounted at Cromford and set off straight away up the steep hill to Steeple Grange. Here I gained the High Peak Trail and crossed the light railway to reach the National Stone Centre at Wirksworth. If I was cold when I started, I certainly warmed up on the Middleton Incline, my climb to the start of the National Trail.

At Middleton Top, I asked a passing couple to take my photograph in front of the National Trail notice board. Lydia kindly did the business and recorded the great moment. Then I set off along the High Peak Trail, relatively flat for much of today’s route. I got into a rhythm of around 17 min per mile pace and tried to keep this up for as long as possible. A cold wind was blowing across the bleak White Peak. I had to don my jacket whenever the sun went behind a cloud. I saw a few cyclists but no one on foot until I was almost at Friden. A runner wearing a Burnley FC shirt was jogging towards me. He was scheduled to reach Derby by evening on his way to the Olympic Stadium in London. His aim is to run to every Burnley away match this season. I wished him luck and we went our opposite ways.

At Friden, I sat on a bench briefly to eat an energy bar and drink my water. 2½ miles later, at Parsley Hay, I found the coffee bar still open so I had a second break, this time for cappuccino and cake. Another 2½ miles brought me to the car park at Hurdlow. My accommodation was yards away from the trail and I was glad to make the pub with daylight to spare.

Cromford dep. 10.55, Hurdlow arr. 16.26

GPS 15.60 miles in 4hrs 56mins 12secs walking time plus 15 mins at Friden (14.20-14.35) and 15 mins at Parsley Hay (15.25-15.40).

I stayed in bunkhouse accommodation at the Royal Oak at Hurdlow. I had a four-bunk room to myself: the room was warm and clean, the toilets and shower room were modern, clean and warm and I had a superb night’s sleep. In the bar, I ordered a plate of belly pork with a pint of Sir Philip (4.2%) from Wincle Brewery. I then moved on to Bakewell tart & custard and Touch of Frost (4.4%) from Storm Brewery

Tuesday 30^th October 2018           Hurdlow – Hayfield

Heading North and South

No breakfast was on offer this morning, unless I was willing to wait until 10am which is no use to man nor beast when you have to walk over 20 miles and arrive in daylight. So I had nothing to lose by getting up, packing my bag and setting off early. The ground was wet with early morning drizzle but this stopped as I slipped out of a sleeping pub and onto the High Peak Trail. This came to an end in two miles and the route turned right, across the main road, heading for Chelmorton. I had initially wanted to overnight at the Church Inn in Chelmorton but they no longer provide accommodation. Thus the Royal Oak bunk house is now the only on-route accommodation for the first 35 miles of the national trail.

Skirting round the village, the route crossed the next ridge and then took me over the A6 and into the vertiginously-sided Chee Dale. A slippery grass track weaved through the limestone cliffs down to Blackwell Mill where the cycle hire centre sold me a coffee and scone. I crossed the river via a narrow stone bridge towards the picturesque cottages on the north bank. A steep path zig-zagged up the other side of the dale through a farm and out onto a tarmacked road that ran beside extensive quarry workings. Eventually I reached the quiet hamlet of Wormhill the exit from which is along a delightful walled path leading down into Monk’s Dale.

The Pennine Bridleway does not follow the line of these limestone dales. It oscillates from side to side along walled tracks on the high plateau. My phone went just as I was facing a long line of cows being driven home for milking. I was able to chat with my daughter for a few minutes as they slowing mooched passed. I was looking forward to some refreshments at the pub at Peak Forest, only a few miles ahead. But when I reached the village, the pub was closed and I had no alternative but to move on into a cold drizzle. In Perry Dale, I sat on a stile in the rain and ate another energy bar. At least it was not too far to a coffee shop even though it was up a steep hill.

So I continued along Perry Dale, over the road and onto the lower slopes of Rushup Edge. Rushop Hall was prominent up a very steep stretch of tarmac. My disappointment was intense when I saw the ‘café closed’ sign across the entrance. Never have I walked so far (nearly 2 days) to reach a tea shop. And now it was shut. Rather despondently I climbed upwards to the main road and saw for the first time the impressive ridge of South Head. The track contoured across the hillside making straight for the hill until the lovely flat walking was interrupted by Roych Clough. Here the route lost some of the hard gained height and dropped roughly into a steep sided re-entrant. The climb up the far side, coming as it did at the end of a very long day, seemed interminable. Eventually I pulled out onto open moor at the foot of South Head and traversed easily round its base and passed Mount Famine. The town of Hayfield was laid out below me and I had an easy descent into my destination.

Hurdlow dep. 08.35, Hayfield  arr. 16.30 

GPS 22.95 miles in 7hrs 32mins 10secs walking with 15 mins in Chee Dale for a coffee & scone and 10 mins in Perry Dale for an energy bar and water.

I stayed at Millie’s B&B, Church Street, Hayfield. There was a selection of good pubs but the Royal won the choice as it was virtually next door. Fish, chips and mushy pies filled a very empty stomach. This was followed by Bakewell tart & custard for the second consecutive evening. The beer was Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%) from Wychwood.

Wednesday 31^st October 2018          Hayfield – Diggle

A Gap in the Trail

Even though Millie’s café does not open on Wednesday, the owner got up early to make me breakfast. So, reinforced in the face of another long day, I stepped onto the Sett Valley trail in cold but bright conditions: an invigorating start. I rang home to report that I was still alive and then turned off the trail and up a steeply cobbled track between stone cottages. The climbing continued right onto the moor where Lantern Pike rose to the left. Beyond the Pike, the route crossed flat and rather featureless grazing land with, for almost the first time on the trip, no distinct path to follow. Cown Edge now dominated the view ahead.

Before embarking on this walk, I had read of the various issues in getting a bridleway for horses and bikes around Glossop and across the Longendale Valley. Horse riders were certainly unhappy with the lack of off-road options and with the heavy traffic passing through the valley. In the Sue Viccars guidebook, a walker’s alternative is mapped out between Cown Edge on the south side and Lees Hill some 5 miles to the north. The current version of the ordnance survey 1:50000 map shows a slightly more direct option for the walker which by-passes Cown Edge altogether. From the road end near Plainstead’s Farm, I continued across the next field and over the Monk’s Road and then took a grassy right of way that descended passed a plantation. Glorious views of the Longendale Valley opened out to the right. The path then dropped steeply on a narrow trod down the side of Horse Clough into the Glossop suburb of Simmondley. The clue to finding the way out of this built up area was in the name ‘Green Lane’. This ran through a housing estate and became a bridleway at its end. Almost immediately I came to a notice announcing the next phase in the Pennine Bridleway development, the Gamesley sidings section. Obviously someone else is thinking on the same lines. I now found myself on the Trans Pennine Trail. I quickly re-joined the Sue Viccars walker’s route and marched beside the railway into Broadbottom. A garden centre was advertising their café but I found a lovely little arts & crafts centre, Lymefield, where the ladies cleared a table for me and cut me a wonderful piece of carrot cake.

Suitably refreshed, I climbed through the village and turned onto the Valley Way. This I followed to Hollinworth, noticing for the first time Pennine Bridleway route signs for the walkers’ interim alternative. Two very busy roads had to be crossed. Vast amounts of heavy traffic, travelling between Manchester and Sheffield, seemed to be passing through Hollinworth at that moment. It was a relief to leave all this commotion behind and to gain a delightful path through open beech woodland that slowly climbed back onto the moors. A wooden footbridge had been damaged by a fallen tree and I had the choice of a stepping across the stream on a greasy pole or crawling under the fallen branches. My wet and dirty knees indicated my choice. Soon however I was under Lees Hill where I re-joined the official national trail. I have no idea how the gap in the route for horse riders is going to be resolved.

It was all very straightforward from here. Tracks and tarmac lanes wound round reservoirs and dropped into Brushes Country Park and then up a stony track contouring high above Stalybridge and Mossley before descending into Greenfield. Here an old railway line took me passed Uppermill without offering a glimpse of the town centre and, in the gathering gloaming, I eventually found myself above the village of Diggle where I could descent a narrow lane to my pub accommodation.

Hayfield dep. 08.55, Diggle arr.16.55

GPS 21.50 in 7hrs 24mins 16secs walking time with a 20min break in Broadbottom (11.40-12.00) and a 15 mins break near Brushes Country Park for an energy bar.

I stayed in the Gate Inn, Huddersfield Road, Diggle, where I had a warm welcome and a lovely room.. I had a cheese and onion pie with mash & beans followed by apple tart and ice cream. The beer was Dizzy Blonde (3.8%) from Robinsons and Black Sheep Bitter (4.4%).

Thursday 1^st November 2018           Diggle – Summit

Reaching the Summit

The landlady was up and waiting to cook breakfast at 8am. So I got an early start and slipped out of the back door of the pub and into a damp day with clag on the hillsides. But as I strode back up the road and onto the route proper, the mist cleared and blue sky was revealed. By the time I had scrambled up to Standedge, my jacket was off and I was sweating. The first climb proved to be the only significant one of the morning. The next few miles were on wide  tracks, some stony, some tarmacked. The national trail zig-zagged between a series of reservoirs, through remote and magnificent countryside, looking splendid in the morning sunshine. I saw no one for hours and was getting quite used to this loneliness as I came up to the Ripponden Road. There I was transfixed. Like a man in a desert staring at an oasis, I stood awestruck by the sign board beside the path, ‘coffee shop and deli’. I recovered enough to enter the Rams Head and make myself at home on a cosy settee in the café.

Refreshed by a scone and cappuccino, I had a spring in my step as I descended to Piethorne Reservoir and then under the M62 motorway. The continuous flow of heavy traffic seemed incongruous in this vast and empty landscape. I was soon on the road beside Hollinworth Lake and it was fortuitous that I had had the earlier café break because there was no sign of any civilisation on the east side of the lake. I turned rather disappointedly back onto the moors passing the cottages and deserted farm at Syke.

The going was relatively flat from hereon in with just a few short climbs to remind you not to enjoy yourself too much. The route eventually came along a farm track at Higher Chelburn Reservoir. The diversion round the farm was the sting in the tail of a great day’s walk. The farm itself was an animal sanctuary, not just the usual donkeys and horses but reptiles (including snakes) as well. The view from Leach Hill was worth all the effort and the tiny village of Summit appeared in the valley below. I quickly dropped down to the river, crossed the canal and main road and shinned up the other side to gain the signpost on the Mary Towneley Loop. Having duly touched all the prerequisite way-markers, my journey for the week was over and I returned to the main road and the bus stop. The Mary Towneley Loop will have to await another day.

Diggle dep. 08.53, Summit arr. 14.50

GPS 16.62 miles in 5hrs 36mins 16secs walking time plus 20 min break for cappuccino and scone in the coffee shop/deli at the Rams Head on A672 above Denshaw.

Conclusion

A series of fortuitous timings got me home in record time. I reached the bus stop in Summit just five minutes before an hourly service was due. At Littleborough I jumped straight off the bus and onto a late-running train that raced into Manchester Victoria. My walk across the city was not too onerous and at Piccadilly Station an express was just about to leave. Within 90 mins of reaching Summit, I was in the streets of Macclesfield and heading for my normal Thursday night drinking den. A few texts alerted my usual drinking companions and they quickly joined me for a pint of Weightless (4.2%) from Red Willow. Then I was treated to a lift home. I had a lovely home-coming. Dinner was awaiting me and I was thrilled to see Jill. I was on a high for several days. The four-day jaunt at a goodly pace in cool dry weather suited me perfectly. The next section of this national trail is already in the planning.