Phil got to know about this route last year and thought it would make a pleasant two-day walk. A bit of internet research revealed the existence of a website and guidebook devised and written by the O’Hanlon's who live on the route and provide B&B. The guidebook is designed around a three-day schedule but we decided to stick to the original 2-day plan. It seemed obvious to start at Dolgellau and find overnight accommodation in Barmouth. It would have worked the other way around but there are not as many B&B’s and eating houses in Dolgellau.
Thursday 26th May 2011: Into the Poor Weather
We all gathered at John’s house at 6.45am to load up the car. The early start beat the Chester rush hour traffic and the roads in Wales were pretty clear, so we were pulling into Dolgellau soon after 9am. The search for a car park was more problematic. The town centre car park by the river only catered for single day parking so we drove to the highest reaches of the town, up above the hospital, and left the car in a lay-by in a residential street. As we walked back to the bridge, we noticed an open coffee shop and our departure schedule took a big hit. As the rain fell outside, we began our two-day holiday with mugs of tea and large slices of Victoria sponge-cake.
At 10am, we finally braved it into the wet. A good thing we were only planning 14 miles. Back in the car park, we found the start of the Mawddach Trail, an old railway line which is now a walking and cycling route. As the rail became heavier, we tramped over the river bridges and through some woods and reed beds until we came out into the grey weather again at Penmaenpool. At the refurbished signal box, we paused for a moment to find the point at which our route left the trail. This was not straightforward. At one point we were in the back yard of the George III Hotel before realising that the intended climb started from the front door of the pub. Across the road and up the steps, we started a long and wet climb which, on a clear day, might reveal some great views but today only showed us hills topped in grey clag. Up there somewhere must be Cadair Idris.
After weaving back and forth up the slopes of Cadair, the route eventually levelled out at Llyn Gwernan, our first short halt of the day. Soon after came the right turn away from the mountain and this soon led to a steep drop into a fast flowing river valley. There was a moment of confusion as we realised that the Youth Hostel was still below us so our way involved a sharp right to stay with the river. After losing much precious height, we arrived at the bridge and the crossing to Kings Youth Hostel, which stood closed and eerily silent. Again we called a meeting on the route choice before taking the uphill option to the left. After all that descent, it had to be up. A steep woodland path brought us to a ruined chapel with a still-used cemetery, an oasis of tranquillity and tender management on a high and wild mountainside.
The rain was beginning to abate and the clouds starting to lift off the mountains as we set out on a long traverse across a relatively level plateau. Near a farm we heard some cuckoos and were fortunate to see three of these birds fluttering amongst the rocks and trees. As the cuckoos become less frequent, this was a most surprising and welcoming sight. Then it was on into a biting wind until we came to Llynnau Gregennan. Here we sat behind a wall sheltering from the wind whilst we grabbed a bite of our sandwiches. We mounted the wall stile behind us and were stunned by the panorama that opened up. There far below us was Barmouth and the railway viaduct across the estuary. The view was then in front and to our right for the next few miles as we descended over farm land towards the sea. We did not bother with Arthurs Stones, but hurried by, over an old clapper bridge until we reached the sharp right hand turn that dropped us steeply through the woods to a main road. We were only 100 yards along this road before the route turned us over Arthur’s Bog, a glorious little reed bog and nature reserve, yellow with flowering wild iris.
Soon we were back on the old railway and through the disused station that was the end of the Mawddach Trail. A train came towards us as we started to long crossing of the viaduct, its headlights bright in the gloom. A gale sand-blasted our eyes and faces, causing us to cover our heads and look away from our destination. After an age we came to the final bridge and the toll booth that led us into Barmouth and our overnight watering hole. Sandwiches at Llynnau Gregennan GPS: 14.61 miles in 5hrs 45.43
We stayed at the Seashell B&B, Marine Parade, Barmouth, Gwynedd, LL42 1NA, Tel: 01341 281180
The real ale pub in Barmouth is the Tal Y Don. We tried two different Ringwood beers, Ninety Niner and Old Thumper, both very strong. This gave us the energy to get down to the harbour where we had fish and chips washed down by a bottle of Llandudno beer named Orme.
Friday 27th May 2011: Sun at Last
It had rained for most of the night and, at first light, the day promised little change from yesterday. But, with a full Welsh breakfast inside us, things were brightening up as we collected some sandwiches from the Co-op supermarket. We wandered along the High Street looking for the route out of town. Without the O’Hanlon’s guidebook, we would have struggled to find it. There was no footpath sign or any other reference to a right of way until we came across a hand-painted arrow on a wall. However, it was worth the effort of uncovering the correct route because, as we scaled steps and switch backs, a wonderful panorama of the town unfolded. We were sweating profusely by the time we broke out from the Old Town onto the open fell. Still reading the guidebookin earnest, we passed under Barmouth slabs and onto the miners’ trails of yore. We debated at length the wording in the guidebook about crossing a stream before turning right for the Bwlch y Llan. But all eventually became clear as we set off up the hill towards the highest point on the walk. Views back across the estuary were now transfixing us and there was much stopping and starting by the photographers in the party. A two mile grassy descent (will it be like this in Heaven?) led to the stone circle at Cerrig Arthur. Then onto the track, we failed to find the wishing well, passing the junction before we realised there was a junction. This came back to haunt us the following evening when a football team we all were supporting missed their chance of making a wish.
It had been a long section down to the first road and we were just getting used to the increased pace when the guidebook directed us onto a long loop to see an old gold-mine. So lunch was put on hold whilst we descended the river to inspect the old mine workings. Then we had to regain much of our height loss on the other side of the river back to the road. The waterfalls and the dark gorge of rushing water made it well worthwhile but we were glad to climb back into the sunshine and find a rock to sit on to eat out co-op sandwiches.
As we crested the next ridge and stopped to look at the workings of another gold mine (finding specks of gold in some quartz) I started to become concerned with our pace. The long morning had been very pleasant with the views and photo stops but it was not going to get us to Dolgellau before the coffee shop closed. So, as we started down to Coad Garth Gell, I slightly increased the pace and refocused us on the task in hand. We went straight through Taicynhaeaf without stopping to look at the house of the guidebook authors and then up through steep and indistinct woodland paths on the last big climb. A lovely moorland section took us passed in idyllic peaceful lake and then through a boggy wood down to a farm under reconstruction and a road.
Throughout this section, Dolgellau our destination was just below us to the right but the route continued on and on without turning towards it. Even when we reached the road that led down into the valley, we immediately were turned off again on our tangential path. It took a few moments to find the right-hand turn for home, having momentarily crossed a stile some 200 yards too soon. But we quickly dropped onto the correct path and with relief and increased pace set off down the Monks Way, a glorious downhill path with stupendous views into the Mawddach valley to our left. Now on a cracking pace, we were soon down into Llanelltyd church and crossing a pleasant field path to the old bridge across the river. It was a short matter of a rising walled-path up to a golf course and then a mile downhill on tarmac into Dolgellau. I was on a quest so I did not stop on the bridge but marched straight over and into the coffee shop where this had all started on the previous morning. Two pieces of Victoria sponge were ordered and, when the owner arrived with these and the teas, she demanded to know which two that had not ordered her wonderful cake. David and John were shamed into joining us and we were thus all fully fortified for the climb up to the car and the drive home. A great two days and a wonderful route. Lunch near Clogau gold mine 13.15
