Introduction
Before I
could set out, I had a scibar to organise and oversee. I left the Park Tavern
as soon as the event had finished, walked swiftly home, finished packing my
rucksack and changed into my walking gear. Then Jill took me to Wilmslow
Station for the last train of the day to Crewe and I sat on an almost deserted
platform waiting for the Caledonian Sleeper. The train was running over an hour
late and did not arrive into Crewe until after 1am. I flopped into my seat,
desperate for warmth and rest. The train ran speedily through the night picking
up much of its lost time on its way to Edinburgh. All was well until it left
Perth and onto the single-track line to the north. Here we seemed to lose all priority
and we were stacked in several loops whilst up-trains rushed by. It took us an
age to trundle the last few miles into Inverness, an hour late and with many
connections missed.
However this
was the end of the line for me and, as there was no food proffered me on board,
I walked into town to find a good breakfast. The Rendezvous Café sufficed and I
felt much more positive as I climbed up to the castle to pay my respects to
Flora MacDonald and then locate the start of the Great Glen Way. I set off down
to the river much later than I had originally intended.
Tuesday 30th April 2019 Inverness
– Drumnadrochit
A Drum, a Drum
The weather
was bright and sunny but a chill wind blew along the river. I crossed the
footbridge and onto the path round Whin Park where I stopped briefly to take
off my tracksuit bottoms. It was warm enough to walk in shorts for the next
three days. The route went all the way round the end of the playing fields,
passing the botanical gardens and under a busy road. Then I was on a canal
tow-path for half a mile before setting out across fields towards new housing
developments. They seemed to be building everywhere at this end of town. The path
started to rise up towards Great Glen House which, from close up, looks an
interesting modernistic design but from a distance looks a monstrosity.
I was
sweating now, even in a singlet and shorts, as I climbed steeply up through
woodland and out onto a forest track which contoured round the back of the ridge.
Eventually I could see houses and a road below me to the left and, after
another uphill loop, the path began a long gentle descent to this road. A few
miles on tarmac were good for the average pace but I was glad to come to a
kissing gate on the right and a sign to a café. A narrow woodland path, through
lovely native trees, brought me to Abriachan Eco-camp and its outdoor café.
Here I enjoyed 
a milky coffee and the largest piece of lemon cake I have ever faced.
I sat with a young couple, he from Edinburgh and she from the Snowy Mountains
near Canberra. Sandra, the eco-camp owner, took our photo together and I was
later able to see this on their Facebook page. I was reluctant to leave but
time was pressing and I still had seven miles to go.
a milky coffee and the largest piece of lemon cake I have ever faced.
I sat with a young couple, he from Edinburgh and she from the Snowy Mountains
near Canberra. Sandra, the eco-camp owner, took our photo together and I was
later able to see this on their Facebook page. I was reluctant to leave but
time was pressing and I still had seven miles to go. 
I missed a
left-hand turn and had to backtrack from a farmyard. But this only cost me a
few minutes and I was soon striding downhill on the long descent to lake-level.
It was all pretty featureless until I suddenly came out of the trees and there
was Urquhart Castle on a point across an inlet in Loch Ness. I was surprised
how low and close to the water it was. I had expected it to be more dominant
and spectacular. The trail then came down to the main road, keeping in a field
for a short while and finally taking to the pavement and a long tramp into
town. As I crossed the bridge over the river, I found myself immediately in the
village green and there was my b&b. Crewe station seemed a long way away and
it had been a long day.
Inverness
Station dep. 09.30, Inverness Castle dep. 10.30, Drumnadrochit arr. 17.45
GPS 20.76
miles in 6hrs 54mins 04secs walking time plus 45 mins in Rendezvous Café (09.45-10.30)
in Inverness and 45 mins at Abriachan Eco-Camp (14.45-15.30).
I stayed at Morlea B&B, Village Green, Drumnadrochit and ate at the Fiddlers almost next door.
I ate pork belly with Stornoway black pudding and a whisky sponge pudding and
ice cream. A couple of pints of Kowabunga Pale Ale (4.6%) from Cromarty Brewing
were quickly dispatched. I finished with a half of Darkness (4.4%) from Loch
Ness Brewery.
Wednesday 1st May 2019
Drumnadrochit – Fort Augustus
I’ll Take the High Road
I visited
the village shop before setting off in the morning. Then it was a very flat and
urban mile along the main road passed the school and over a second river in the
valley. The route turned inland beside
this river for another half-mile before rearing up in my face. Towards the top
of this very steep climb I met a woman coming down toward me, obviously a fit
and serious walker. Lorna Hodgkinson told me she had come all the way for Milngavie and was
hoping to finish this evening in Inverness. I wished her luck and promised to
add a few bob to her charity, Northwest Blood
Bikes Lancashire and Lakes.
There
followed a very long section of tarmac which finished rather satisfactorily
with a café, in Loch Ness Clay Works Pottery, a dark and dismal cottage in a
woodland clearing. Here I was royally entertained by Joss Wynne Evans who made
me a coffee and cut a lovely piece of whisky-flavoured fruit cake. I was
impressed by his latest book on the poetry of Nicholas Snowden Willey. I
finally dragged myself away, followed the grassy track through the garden and
re-joined the official trail in a light and airy forest. A delightful
contouring track took me to a choice of routes. Being me, it had to be the high
route. And I was so pleased with my choice because the steep climb brought me
to a fabulous viewpoint over Loch Ness. Then there was a humungous drop to a
river and a rather featureless climb across deforested slopes out of sight of
the loch. I then came to a stunning piece of natural sculpture, ‘The Viewcatcher’ made of Caledonian pine branches. The view was westwards 
towards snow-topped
mountains in the distance. A steep descent along zigzagging tracks deposited me
quickly into Invermoriston and a sign to another café. It really is very
difficult to make good time with all these distractions. I enjoyed Victoria
sponge cake and cappuccino in the Glen Rowan Café and had a welcome rest before
the climbing still to come.
It took me
some time to come across the start of the high route but, when I did, I
certainly knew about 
it. The path went straight up the hillside, taking the
occasional zigzag when the slope became too great. A woman coming down
encouraged me with the words ‘you are nearly there now and the view is
astonishing’. And astonishing it was. As I emerged from the steep wooded climb
onto a fine open path, I was bowled over by the landscape before me. The entire
length of Loch Ness unfolded, with steep sided hills on each side and
snow-capped mountain in the distance. My one concern was the big black cloud
that hid the hills ahead. I scurried along this high-level traverse, trying to
beat the oncoming rain. But it caught me on the descent into Fort Augustus and
I had to don waterproofs for the last 30 minutes of the day. I was delayed
briefly by some road works and had to wait to be escorted along a section of re-surfaced
lane on the outskirts of town. It was spot on 6pm as I pushed open the door to my
hotel.
it. The path went straight up the hillside, taking the
occasional zigzag when the slope became too great. A woman coming down
encouraged me with the words ‘you are nearly there now and the view is
astonishing’. And astonishing it was. As I emerged from the steep wooded climb
onto a fine open path, I was bowled over by the landscape before me. The entire
length of Loch Ness unfolded, with steep sided hills on each side and
snow-capped mountain in the distance. My one concern was the big black cloud
that hid the hills ahead. I scurried along this high-level traverse, trying to
beat the oncoming rain. But it caught me on the descent into Fort Augustus and
I had to don waterproofs for the last 30 minutes of the day. I was delayed
briefly by some road works and had to wait to be escorted along a section of re-surfaced
lane on the outskirts of town. It was spot on 6pm as I pushed open the door to my
hotel.
Drumnadrochit
dep. 08.55, Fort Augustus arr. 18.00
GPS 22.01 miles
in 7hrs 53 mins 44 secs walking with 45 mins (13.45- 14.15) in Loch Ness
Pottery Café and 30 mins (16.15-16.45) in Glen Rowan Café in Invermoriston.
I stayed at Richmond
House Hotel and ate in the Lock Inn, haddock and chips followed by stick toffee
pudding and ice cream. The beer was Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm Brewery.
Thursday 2nd May 2019 Fort Augustus – Banavie
Oich and Lochy
The next
morning began with a lesson in how to make waffles. Breakfast was a
do-it-yourself affair and, as I had packed my reading glasses, I had to be
talked through the various processes. This had the advantage of getting me on
my way quickly and so, on a bright cold morning, I was soon crossing the canal
lock and striding out along the wide tow-path, which was a vehicle track. I
caught up with a pair of fast walkers, two Tasmanians, Helen and John, who were
taking the opportunity of stretching their legs whilst their tourist boat caught
them up. At the next lock, they waited for their transport and I pushed on to
Bridge of Oich, a lovely old structure half hidden in trees and dominated by
the new road bridge.
The route
continued on the other side of the canal along the south side of Loch 
Oich. For
much of the lakeside walk, I was on an old railway line which proved a
delightful section through tunnels and cuttings with the loch to my right
sometimes hidden by birch woodland and regenerated growth. Eventually, I came
to the site of Invergarry station where 100 yards of track had been re-laid and
a small diesel engine rested by the old platform. 
A project is afoot to
provide short train rides at this point.
It also marked the end of this lovely section of the walk. I had now to cross
the main road and pick up a riverside path that weaved through a narrow strip
of woodland to reach Laggan Locks. Here was salvation after a long morning of
fast walking. The Eagle is a converted Dutch barge which was moored near the
locks. Inside was a pub and restaurant in a quaint narrow cabin. I took the
opportunity of refuelling on coffee and scones and looked most enviously at the
interesting beers on draught. What a pity I had so much further to walk. I
could have drunk the afternoon away quite happily.
Oich. For
much of the lakeside walk, I was on an old railway line which proved a
delightful section through tunnels and cuttings with the loch to my right
sometimes hidden by birch woodland and regenerated growth. Eventually, I came
to the site of Invergarry station where 100 yards of track had been re-laid and
a small diesel engine rested by the old platform. 
A project is afoot to
provide short train rides at this point.
It also marked the end of this lovely section of the walk. I had now to cross
the main road and pick up a riverside path that weaved through a narrow strip
of woodland to reach Laggan Locks. Here was salvation after a long morning of
fast walking. The Eagle is a converted Dutch barge which was moored near the
locks. Inside was a pub and restaurant in a quaint narrow cabin. I took the
opportunity of refuelling on coffee and scones and looked most enviously at the
interesting beers on draught. What a pity I had so much further to walk. I
could have drunk the afternoon away quite happily.
However,
back to the task in hand. I crossed the lock and set out along a road which
became a forest track along the north side of Loch Lochy. This was a very long
section of the walk, at least 12 miles along a wide and featureless track with
limited views of the loch. My main interest lay in talking to the parties of
walkers coming towards me. There were two groups of Duke of Edinburgh students,
a party of Americans who offered me a cup of tea, and several solo walkers
striding solemnly passed. I had hoped to get a cup of tea at the Cameron Museum
but, when I reached Bunarkaig, I found that the house was a mile back from the
road. 
I had enough miles to cover today without adding a couple more. So on I
plodded into Gairlochy and straight onto the canal tow-path. When I had first
planned this walk, I had tried to get accommodation here but was pointed
towards Spean Bridge nearly 3 miles away. So I bit the bullet and booked a
b&b at Banavie, 6 miles beyond Gairlochy but still en route. This last six
miles on the wide and open gravel road was boring and uninspiring. I did it as
fast as I could, in well under two hours, and was very glad to see the top of
Neptune’s Staircase, the set of locks leading down to Banavie. I rang ahead to
get guidance into the b&b and was delighted to find Anastasia waiting at
her front door for me. It is a long time since I had walked this far in a day.
I had enough miles to cover today without adding a couple more. So on I
plodded into Gairlochy and straight onto the canal tow-path. When I had first
planned this walk, I had tried to get accommodation here but was pointed
towards Spean Bridge nearly 3 miles away. So I bit the bullet and booked a
b&b at Banavie, 6 miles beyond Gairlochy but still en route. This last six
miles on the wide and open gravel road was boring and uninspiring. I did it as
fast as I could, in well under two hours, and was very glad to see the top of
Neptune’s Staircase, the set of locks leading down to Banavie. I rang ahead to
get guidance into the b&b and was delighted to find Anastasia waiting at
her front door for me. It is a long time since I had walked this far in a day.
Fort
Augustus dep. 08.34, Banavie arr.18.00
GPS 29.23 in
9hrs 08mins 45secs walking time with a 20min break Eagle Inn at Lagan Locks.
I stayed in the Stalkers Dream, Taigh Nan Ord, Old Banavie
Road. I ate at the Lochy Inn in Caol, steak and black pudding with chips followed
by sticky toffee pudding and ice cream (this was very good). I had one pint of
Caledonian Deucars IPA (4.4%) before it ran out. So I had to resort to a large
glass on Shiraz as a dessert wine.
Friday 3rd May 2019 Banavie – Fort William
In the Shadow of the Ben
As I had
been warned, the house was empty and locked when I went down stairs in the
morning. I unlocked the front door, locked it behind me and posted the keys
through the letter box. The village was quiet as I slipped across the canal
swing bridge, pausing briefly to glance up at the Ben which was now clear of
cloud. But, boy, was it cold. I was back in tracksuit bottoms and I wished I
had got out my gloves. Then it was back onto the gravel tow-path for the last
mile to the sea lock, then on tarmac paths and pavements through the suburbs of
Fort William. I eventually came to the end of the Great Glen Way on a piece of
grass beside the town by-pass. The stone block was identical to the one in
front of Inverness Castle but this had Ben Nevis looming overhead. The most
difficult bit of navigation on the entire route was finding a way over the dual
carriageway and into the town centre.
Banavie dep.
08.38, Fort William arr. 10.30
GPS 4.59 miles
in 1hrs 43mins 24secs.
Conclusion
It was time
to get some breakfast. A bacon bap and a cappuccino in Costas was very welcome.
I just had time to buy a paper before the train arrived to take me to Glasgow.
It was starting to rain, the wind was icy cold and I knew it was time to head
for home. The trip over Rannoch Moor was spectacular, surely one of the best
train trips in the country. We arrived in Queen Street bang on time and I was
able to have a leisurely meal at the Drum & Monkey on St Vincent Street.
(Fish and Chips, Sticky Toffee Pudding, and a couple of pints of Moonstone, a
5% ale from Hadley Brewery). I even had time for a coffee & carrot cake at
the Patisserie Valerie on Central Station. Then it was onto the Virgin train
south where faultless changes at Wigan and Manchester Piccadilly got me home to
record speed time. It may have been a fast and furious few days but it had been
77 miles of happy memories and easy walking in a very beautiful part of the
world.
