St Oswald's Way

Hexham – Lindisfarne, 6^th – 10^th August 2016

Introduction

Friday 5^th August 2016

I was getting desperate for a good walk but the weather this summer has not been conducive. It had not turned out to be the monsoon season forecast by climate change models; just day after day of grey skies and drizzle. Then suddenly there was a hint of high pressure offering a weekend of sunshine. So, on the spur of the moment, I grabbed my guidebook to the St Oswald’s Way, spent a morning on-line booking the hotels and b&b’s, bought my train tickets and packed my rucksack. 48 hours later I was on the train to Carlisle and Hexham.

The tide tables determined which direction I was to walk in. The afternoon low tides made it more suitable for a late finish of the northward walk rather than an early start needed for a north-south journey. I was really pleased and pretty amazed I had managed to get the accommodation sorted out at such a busy time in the holiday season. Then I got a phone call from the Knowesgate Inn telling me that, although I had booked a room and had a receipt, they had no accommodation for me. I could either panic and cancel, or stay cool and carry on in the hope that a bed would be found.  Then it was off to the station and into the unknown. I travelled via Manchester Piccadilly and Carlisle to catch an early evening train to Hexham, The promised better weather was beginning to appear.

I stayed at the Station Inn in Hexham. My meal was spicy chicken, chips and peas and the beer was the excellent Allendale Golden Plover (4%).

Saturday 6^th August 2016     Hexham - Knowesgate

Heaven on the Wall

It was a beautiful morning, just as forecast. I went up into Hexham town centre to find an ATM and the bus station. As I was so early, I decided to forsake public transport and walk up to the official start at Heavenfield. So I turned back across the railway line and crossed the Tyne. The Pennine Journey route was marked on my map so I initially followed this to the footbridge across the A69 and beyond. The map was then rather confusing and I found myself on a lane rather than in a field. But it revealed a gem of an old church, St John of Beverley near Acomb. I spent a few minutes in the church in quiet contemplation and then came out to talk to a lady, Sheila Smith, who had just finished writing a history of the church and is in the process of getting it published. She suggested that I write to the rectory next year to get a copy. Amazingly this was the very day of an annual pilgrimage from Hexham Abbey up to the chapel at Heavenfield to mark the anniversary of St Oswald’s death in battle (5^th August 642). 

Then it was onwards and upwards along the very quiet lanes until I could cut across some fields up to the road along Hadrian’s Wall. I had to deviate westward for a few hundred yards to get access to the Hadrian’s Wall Path but I was soon heading in the right direction up to the large cross and chapel at Heavenfield. Here a couple were struggling to erect a small marquis from which to sell teas to the afternoon pilgrims. I could not wait; I had a long day in front of me. So, after a brief glance inside the chapel and then offering a helping hand in the tent erection process, I set out along the National Trail. This I followed for five or six miles to Halton Shields where my Way turned northwards along field paths passed at old windmill and into to Great Whittington. Here the pub, a Chinese restaurant, was closed. It was getting hot now and, in the total absence of any refreshment emporium, I sat on the grass for a few moments near to Click ‘em In Farm. The route-finding across the next hill was rather tricky but I eventually found the correct line and dropped down to a road and war memorial. Here a runner came towards me, a lad reccying the route for a race along its entire length next month. Two more miles of road took me to Little Bavington where a series of field paths led uphill passed Clay Walls Farm. Here, coming towards me through a herd of very frisky cattle, was another runner making the same reccy. He has the courtesy to come turn back with me and help me through the rampant beasts.  More farmland was crossed until I could see Kirkwhelpington ahead and on the hill above it, my destination. The rough ground up this last hill was not my most pleasant memory of the day but I was soon on the lane that led to the hotel at Knowesgate.

Hexham dep. 08.45, Knowesgate arr. 17.25   GPS 23.93 miles in 8hr 16m 57s moving plus a 10 min lunch stop near Great Whittington.

I stayed at the Knowesgate Inn which did have a room ready for me despite my worst fears. This hotel has gained a poor reputation and it is not the Ritz. It is a roadside inn that it developing as a motel. I found it fun to stay there and I enjoyed a great meal of lamb shank. The only real ale was in bottles (Doombar 4%) but I was desperate so I had two.

 

Sunday 7^th August 2016       Knowesgate – Weldon

With a Following Wind

A great wind had arisen during the night and it looked quite wild from the breakfast table. So I donned a waterproof before venturing outside but the rain held off and it acted more as a windproof. I was blown across the high farmland and passed the plantations. Eventually I arrived at the entrance to Harwood Forest and, from thereon, it was more sheltered. The route through the forest was mostly on wide tracks although there were a couple of sections on narrow overgrown paths. The way rose gentle until it suddenly exited the forest at the highest point on the entire five days. I burst out of the trees at Cairn Coquet onto magnificent mountain scenery with Simonside away to the left. The section across to Spylaw Farm was probably the best of the whole route. Then it was down to the car park at Lordenshaws and round the iron-age fort to reach the final steep descent into Rothbury. Crossing the bridge, I was faced with an attractive looking café (Tomlinson’s) and was soon ensconced with coffee and scones.

The short afternoon section began by re-crossing the bridge and proceeding along a road and old railway line along the right bank of the River Coquet. The route did not follow the river but scrambled up and down surrounding countryside to steer in a straight line as the river meandered on its way. After passing several farms, a farm track led to a lane and a short section on tarmac. The last couple of miles into Weldon Bridge looked simple on the map but caused me a few route-finding problems. I ended up asking the way from a very helpful local who invited me to climb her garden fence to get back onto the right of way. The last area of woodland, passing a weir in the river, was very fiddly and I was quite relieved to pull out onto the road and cross the old bridge. The hotel was immediately on the other side.

Knowesgate dep. 08.42, Weldon arr. 16.40, GPS 21.10 miles in 7hrs 31m 00s walking time plus a 35 minute lunch stop (13.45-14.20) in Rothbury.

I stayed at the Anglers Arms in Weldon, having a magnificent meal of belly pork and blue cheese sauce followed by ginger sponge and custard. The Hobgoblin Gold (4.5%) was very well kept on hand pump. A truly wonderful hotel.

Monday 8^th August 2016    Weldon – Alnmouth

Medieval Tournaments

A storm had raged all through the night. At one point I got up to close the bedroom windows as the howling wind was shaking the room. But the sun was shining as I left the hotel and there was not a cloud in the sky. The first few yards were not consistent with the guide book. The signed route went under the A697 on an anglers' path along the riverbank before turning uphill back to the farm track. This was followed for some way and it was very easy going compared with yesterday. Except for one section of overgrown path, the section to Felton was a walk in the park. In fact that was just where it ended up, passing under the A1 and out into Felton Park with its peaceful old church in the trees to the left. I immediately came upon another church, this one being the parish church noticeable for its very low roof over the nave. Keeping to my pilgrimage objectives, I spend five minutes inside before descending to the attractive bridge over the river. The route continued along the right bank of the river into a very flat section of farm tracks, fields and narrow lanes. I passed under the East Coast Main Line which was to feature again later in my journey. Then the way turned left onto a tarmacked bridleway which led directly into Warkworth. I could see the castle up ahead with its flag flying in the sunshine. The castle was pack out with visitors watching re-enactments of medieval tournaments. However I could still buy a ticket to view the castle and I spent a wonderful half hour watching the pageants from the majestic old keep. Then it was a quick dash into town to get a coffee and Victoria sponge cake.

 
I crossed the River Coquet for the last time and climbed a steep hill towards the golf course and the sea. This dropped me through a car park and on to a huge sandy beach and the Northumberland Coast Path. I was to follow this for the rest of my trip. I was faced with a two mile plod up firm sand close to the water. This took me right up to the River Aln as it flowed in a channel across the beach and out to sea. The town of Alnmouth was tantalisingly close across the water. I could almost reach out and touch it. In retrospect I should have taken my shoes and socks off and waded across. I was later told by my landlady that this would have been quite safe. But I did not know the depth and flow rate of the river so I turned inland and followed the official route for three miles round to the main bridge. So, an hour later than I needed to have been, I arrived at my b&b. I had a quick shower and changed so I could take a look round this lovely village, but as soon as I started my tour it started to rain. So I was driven into a pub to shelter. What can a man do?

Weldon dep. 09.14, Alnmouth arr. 16.20, GPS 17.47 miles in 6hr 04m 30s walking time plus a 70 min break in Warkworth to see the castle and have some refreshments.

I stayed at the Old Granary in Northumberland Street in Alnmouth. I ate at the Sun Inn, duck confit with a couple of pints of Golden Sheep (4.7%) from Black Sheep Brewery.

 

Tuesday 9^th August 2016    Alnmouth – Seahouses

Pub and Castle

Last night’s rain had cleared as I set out under blue skies into a chill north westerly. This blew in cloud and light drizzle as the day went on and I ended up wearing my waterproof (just to keep warm). The route left Alnmouth over two golf courses, the second of these, Foxton Hall, led me back to the beach. I tramped up the wet sand to Boulmer and then went ashore onto wonderful grassy tracks round headland after headland. This brought me to Craster where the smoke was seeping out of the roof of the fish-smoking house. I hope they have got authorisations for the air emissions.

Beyond Craster, the way is over well-walked grassland dominated by the view of Dunstanburgh Castle on the next headland. It must be one of the most evocative sights in England. There was little point in stopping to view the ruin: it is best seen from a distance. So I hurried on into a wetting drizzle and quickly came round to the tiny hamlet of Low Newton and shot into the Ship Inn with is Brewhouse. I tried a pint of their home brew and sat outside with a bag of peanuts. But it was too cold to sit for long and there was more drizzle in the air.

I continued along the coast path passing several groups of youngsters practising for their Duke of Edinburgh’s next month. More grass and golf courses took me to Beadnell, a not very attractive village of bungalows facing the sea. I took to the beach again north of the last house to avoid two miles of road walking and then had to scramble up through the dunes back to the road to get over the next stream. A fun-fare was making a racket as I entered Seahouses and here I turned right over another golf course to reach the last headland before the harbour. I followed Main Street through the town centre and out to the edge of town to find my accommodation for the night. I showered and changed so that I could have a quick look around the shops and harbour, but I easily succumbed to temptation and slipped into the Olde Ship Inn for a pint. 

Alnmouth dep. 08.54, Seahouses arr. 15.35, GPS 18.31 miles in 6hrs 13m 38s walking time with a pub stop at the Ship in Low Newton (13.30 – 14.10). Drank a pint of Sandcastles at Dawn (3.8%) brewed at the pub.

I stayed at Ugiebrae, Main Street, Seahouses. I had a drink in the Olde Ship Inn, Sundancer (3.5%) from High House Farm Brewery and ate at the Spice Garden Indian Restaurant (yes, you’ve guessed, it was Cobra beer!)

 

Wednesday 10^th August 2016    Seahouses - Lindisfarne

End of a Pilgrimage

I was early down for breakfast with my rucksack packed and ready to go. There was to be no easy start today. I had a bus to catch! I strode up the old railway line out of Seahouses, seeking the inland route over to Bamburgh. This was a mixture of fields and lanes, with little sign of them ever being used. Most walkers must go down the foreshore. I found myself on the road beside the castle which was a dominant feature above the village. I took the unofficial way across the cricket pitch and through the dunes but I was soon back on the road to the golf course. I crossed the course to Budle Point and then turned inland following the signs. I then met a section with clear metal signs taking me across and out of a caravan site. This left me on a lane which led up to the very busy B1342 where I had to turn left back towards Bamburgh to pick up the route again. I probably put on an extra half a mile in getting round this dubious unofficial diversion. Then there was a fiddley section around Wetton Mill before I got back onto a field path with a purpose.

I followed a series of roller-coaster fields until I could see Belford below me. I headed down to a crossing of the east coast main line which instructed me to ring the nearby signal box before crossing. I then came across the A1 with standing traffic following an accident: Through the village it was quiet and then I left town via Westhall after which I made a pig's ear of route finding up to Plantation Farm. Although there was no trod on the ground the way to Swinhoe Farm was more obvious. I then picked up a wide forest track that wound passed some reservoirs. Here I had my only stop of the day, just a ‘splash and dash’.

Just beyond this point, the route was joined by St Cuthbert’s Way which I followed down through fields and woods out onto the lane to Fenwick  Here it started raining in earnest and I was fully coated in rain-proofs as I crossed the A1 and came upon a party of Germans waiting to re-cross the east coast main line. Again the signalman was rung but this time the answer was ‘nein’. The Germans were momentarily confused but soon realised why when a Virgin train thundered passed on its way to Kings Cross. A second ‘phone call gave us the all clear and I was away passed the party of walkers and heading for the causeway. It would probably have been safe to cross the staked line across the sands but it was raining again and the route looked very wet and muddy. So I chickened out and set out along the busy road. I was soon able to get off tarmac onto the verge. The town of Lindisfarne took an age to get closer as the causeway curved around in a great arch. But eventually, with the rain now quite heavy, I came to the last bend before the packed car park. I continued quickly passed and on to the Priory where I gave my thanks to St Aidan for a pilgrimage safely and successfully completed.

Seahouses dep. 08.24, Lindisfarne Priory arr. 16.04, GPS 23.82 in 7hrs 36min 40sec walking time and a five minute break for an energy gel.

 
Aftermath

I changed out of my wet walking clothes in the gents’ toilet. Then I checked the bus times and went across the road for a coffee and carrot cake. Leaving it late to go out into the rain once more, I got back to the bus stop to find a long queue. For a few moments I thought I was in danger of not getting on but the bus driver packed us all in with standing room only for several passengers. I had been chatting in the queue with John from Hull who was also desperate to get off the island and catch a train. So when the bus pulled into the station car park at Berwick, he and I shot into the nearest pub for a very quick pint, Belhaven (it is near Scotland!), but I was dying of thirst. Back on the platform, John and I parted, he to go south and me to take a Cross-country Train to Glasgow Central. This was generally on schedule and I had time to get another ticket and jump on a Scot rail train to Ayr to visit my daughter and grandchildren.

I had walked 104 miles on a very diverse route of moor and mountain, river bank and coast path. I now needed a rest but was unsure whether a few days with the grandkids was going to provide it.