Dales Way

Ilkley - Bowness, 1^st–5^th September 2014

 

Introduction
 

Phil and I had been discussing a possible joint venture for some time without any particular focus. When Phil tabled his enthusiasm to revisit the Yorkshire Dales, following our trek down the Lady Anne’s Way, the Dales Way became our late summer objective. A quick ring round some of the b&bs proved it could be a possibility to set it up at the last minute, the poor August weather seemed to be relenting so we went for the first week in September and hoped for the best.

Monday 1^st Sept 2014     Ilkley – Burnsall

Into the Sunshine

It hardly seemed the best as I was driven down to the station to meet Phil and begin our train journey. The weather was awful: the hills were covered by a cold blanket of cloud and drizzle. I was close to using the umbrella as I walked into the station. However from that moment the conditions got better and better and were to furnish some of the best walking weather I have ever had. The train connections went like clockwork and we hardly had time to grab coffees at Manchester and at Leeds before our departures were due. So we arrived at Ilkley Station ahead of schedule (12 noon) and were soon out in the sunshine looking for the river. We were disappointed to find no mention of the Dales Way at the road bridge so we set off upstream through a small park to reach a beautiful old stone bridge hardly wide enough for modern traffic. Here at last we found an interpretive board dedicated to the Dales Way and we realised that here at last was the official start. The early sections were very straight-forward, through a sports club, a few fields and then out onto a lane at Addingham. We paused briefly to look round the church, St. Peters, situated on raised ground above well-kept grassland.

Then it was out into open country with our first riverside walking. A short interlude on the road led to an underpass at Bolton Old Bridge into the Bolton Priory Estate. Fabulous views of the ruins opened out as we approached over luscious grassland. An even better view was that of an ice-cream van. We continued on our way licking cones of vanilla ice. We crossed the river at a foot-bridge and went through a wood filled with kids’ activity equipment. Then it was back over the river at Cavendish Bridge and then along a wide track through Strid Wood. We completely overshot the Strid, hidden as it was by a curtain of trees. By the time we realised this we were out of the wood and at a narrow footbridge across the river. For here it was an easy walk to Bardon Bridge and another ice-cream van. Foregoing the pleasure this time, we pushed on along the river to the Howgill loop and then back along grassy paths until the wide grassy fields of Burnsall opened up in front. I booked a table at the Red Lion and then trekked up to our b&b. It was not long however before we returned for drinks and a meal.

Ilkley dep. 12.03, Burnsall arr. 17.05. GPS 14.17 miles in 5hr 2m 58s.

We stayed at Wharf View Farm, Main Street, Burnsall, N. Yorks, BD23 6BP   Tel: 01756 720643. We ate at the Red Lion, fish, chips and mushy peas, and chocolate sponge with more ice-cream. The beers were Wharfedale King of the Mountains (3.9%) and Hatton Dark Horse Pale Ale (4.5%).

Tuesday 2^nd September 2014       Bunsall – Buckden

A Short Walk

We woke up to the perfect morning. Cool clear and cloudless sky, the early morning sun exaggerating the contrast between the water, the banks and the surrounding hills. We were in no hurry today. Our schedule was for a short easy walk up the valley so as to be in position for the big push tomorrow. So it was almost 9.30am when we left our b&b and headed back into the village and down to the bridge. The scene of the quietly flowing water under the sunlit old bridge was a picture worth having and Phil did not disappoint. We met a woman, walking a dog, who had seen kingfishers and a strange light in the sky following the ridge line of the opposite hills. We crossed the river at a narrow and bouncy suspension bridge which was under repair. Every time a walked wanted to cross, the guys replacing the wooden slats had to come ashore, so progress was very slow. Linton church was across the river as we came round towards the falls. Here we re-crossed the river on a more substantial footbridge to get the optimum view of the waterfall and weirs. Then it was back across the bridge and up into Grassington for a cup of coffee.

The climb out of Grassington was quite steep and rather confusing. It was only after a careful combination of guidebook and maps that we found the correct route across the fields and onto the high plateau. We made some glib comment of how difficult it might be for foreigners to navigate across such featureless and poorly marked routes. But we found a good line and headed across the limestone moors. We came across a couple of retired postmen who were heading beyond our target of Buckden. I explained that I would also have been trying for Hubberholme but was put off by the Tuesday closing of the George pub. They look at me with alarm and disbelief. It was Tuesday! On we walked until we came to a plantation where the path descended steeply to a quiet lane. This was followed passed a conference centre and then we turned onto a footpath system of fields and stiles into Kettlewell. It was time for another coffee, this time with some Bakewell tart.

 

We now only had four miles of riverside path before we came to Buckden. A woman walked quickly down the road toward the village and we walked more slowly after her. We eventually located our b&b for the night, a tea shop behind the pub (closed Tuesdays!). However the woman was in, the one who had been racing ahead of us down the road, and she showed us to our rooms. The bath was rather small but with a bit of a struggle we were soon washed and changed and having our first pint in the pub next door. A lady, American from her accent, was also staying at our teashop and we invited her to joint us for a meal. She had spent much of the day trying to find her way across the high ground out of Grassington. Our prediction of the difficulties that strangers would have to British navigation had turned out to be correct. Jane from Massachusetts was walking the Lady Anne’s Way, the route that Phil and I had completed some three years ago.

Burnsall dep. 09.25, coffee in Grassington, coffee/cake in Kettlewell, Buckden  arr. 16.20, GPS 15.25 miles in 5hrs 46m 24s walking time..

We stayed at the West Winds Yorkshire Tearooms, Buckden, North Yorkshire BD23 5JA
Telephone 01756 760883. We ate at the Buck Inn. I had steak & ale pie and drank Spitting Feathers, Theaksons Best Bitter (3.8%) & Copper Dragon Black Gold (3.7%).

 

Wednesday 3^rd September 2014    Buckden – Dent

Crossing the Watershed

It was very misty this morning and a haze hung over the hills. But there was no wind and it was warm and humid as we left our teashop b&b and set off into the upper regions of Wharfedale denoted Langstrothdale on the maps. We soon came to Hubberholme, confirmed the Tuesday closure of the pub, and wondered how our postman friends had got on last night in an alcohol free zone. There was some superb walking up to Beckermonds and the head of the river. Then it was over a footbridge and thence on steep tarmac into Oughtershaw and a rather unusual wayside stone. Here we left the lane and continued up the beck to Nethergill and Swarthgill and then onto narrow muddy trods up the fell side with the watershed of England in the marshy ground down to our left. We missed the direct route up to Cam Houses and found ourselves in the valley below the farm buildings. We were then faced by a steep grassy track to get ourselves back on route. Then a narrow path slanted up to the crest of the ridge where we met the Pennine Way. At the junction of these two major routes there was a small gathering of walkers eating lunch. We caught up with Ian and Nadine, our Middlesbrough friends, and swapped photo opportunities. Then it was off to Cam End and down to Gayle Beck along a wide track that had recently been constructed to give access to logging operations. Half way down we were passed by two monster log trucks throwing up dust across the dry countryside. At the bridge at the bottom sat our two postmen, full of stories about closed pubs and tins of lager.

Then came an unexpectedly rough section across Gayle Moor to Dentdale Head. The narrow undulating trod reminded me of how the Pennine Way had been many years ago. With some relief we stepped out onto the Dentdale road which we followed for many miles through Upper Dentdale, passed the Sportsman’s Inn at Cowgill (closed!!!) into the lower and wider parts of the valley. Here we regained the countryside on some field paths on a rather artificial route which crossed and re-crossed the beck in its attempt to minimise the use of tarmac. Eventually we came to tranquil riverside paths that led to the village of Dent. We left the path at Church Bridge and entered the village as the church clock struck five. We walked right passed the b&b and did a short tour of the village before asking a local who sent us back the way we had come.

A quick shower and we were ready for a pint and where better than in Dent. We started in the George and Dragon which is the tap for Dent Brewery. There sat Ian and Nadine having a drink before dinner. We crossed the road to the Sun and had an ample meal and more beer. It had been a great and tiring day crossing the watershed.

Buckden dep. 09.08, Dent arr. 17.05, GPS 22.41 in 7hr 40m 43s.

We stayed at Garda View Guest House, Main Street, Dent, Cumbria, LA10 5QL Tel: 01539 625209. We had Dent Aviator (4%) and Golden Fleece (3.7%) in the George and Dragon and Kirkby Lonsdale Tiffin Gold (3.6%) and Monumental (4.5 %) in the Sun to accompany a meal of camembert for starters and fish and chips.

 

Thursday 4^th September 2014     Dent – Skelsmergh

Up the Lune

It was a magnificent morning, unbelievable for Cumbria. We left the b&b just before 9.20am and retraced our steps to Church Bridge under a cloudless sky and with the sun bringing out the colours on the surrounding hillsides. There was no wind; the air was like wine, cool and invigorating as we set out along the riverside path. This led out onto a lane and then turned north to cross the river and climb up to a high ridge. Here the views of Dentdale were superb and a great introduction for what was round the corner. As we traversed round the end of the ridge, the panorama of Sedbergh opened up before us with the Howgills as a pale green backdrop against a blue sky. This was surely the greatest landscape moment of the entire walk.

The route dropped down steep grassy paths and into the hamlet of Millthrop on the River Rothay. Here we abandoned the route temporarily to seek coffee and cakes in Sedbergh town centre. But it was only a brief rest as we were soon on our way back to the Rothay via the beautifully manicured grounds of Sedbergh School. We followed the river as it wound its way through fields and woods and over the old Tebay-Ingleton railway. Eventually we emerged onto a main road which we had to trek for almost half a mile. Then it was over some farmland to the key turn of the day: a right turn into the Lune Valley. At first the way kept close to the river until we reached a magnificent railway viaduct cross high above the river. This was yet again the disused Tebay-Ingleton Railway. What a shame that this fantastic structure was now derelict.

The route then climbed steeply uphill and passed through a series of farms high above the valley floor. Eventually we dropped back down to the river and walked on its bank up to the beautiful bridge at Crook of Lune. Here the character of the walk changed dramatically. We crossed the bridge and said our goodbyes to the Lune. The lane went steeply uphill and under another magnificent disused railway viaduct. The traffic noise from the M6 now became apparent. But we walked beside it for an age, up through some poorly marked field systems. We lost the official line at Lakethwaite Farm but we were able to pull out onto a high lane and correct our error. The next field path led to a footbridge across the motorway and then across some quiet fields parallel to the West Coast mainline. A new diversion, not on the map or in the guide book took us directly down to a bridge across the railway. Just on the other side we met David who had been walking towards us. He turned back with us and we all walked on together to where David had parked his car near Skelsmergh Tarn. Phil and I continued to the A6 and then jumped into David’s car and were driven off to a lovely night of eating, drinking and chatting.

Dent dep. 09.19, coffee in Sedbergh, Skelsmergh arr. 18.00

GPS 20.38 ml in 8hrs 3mins 19s walking time.

We stayed with David, Phil’s cousin, who fed us and entertained us like royalty and the only thanks he asked was for us to re-tune his television.

Friday 5^th September 2014     Skelsmergh (A6) – Bowness-on-Windermere

Along the Kent to the Lakes

David cooked us a lovely breakfast before taking us back to Skelsmergh. He dropped us off at the entrance to the lane to the fishing tarn soon after 9am and we set off for the last leg of the trip. It appeared to be so easy that we fast lost concentration and ended up in a huge sloping field with not a clue how to get out. After two laps of the perimeter fence I retraced my steps to the top gate, found a half-hidden direction indicator and then followed this to the farthest corner of this mega-field and, lo and behold, there was the stile. I was a bit more attentive to the signs (or lack of them) from then onwards and it was not long before we were by-passing Burneside and were on the banks of the River Kent. Then followed a lovely section of riverside walking through Bowston and on to Staveley. It was tempting to search out a cup of coffee by taking a diversion into the centre of the village, similar to yesterday’s loop into Sedbergh. But we were close to finishing now so we kept to the official route around the south side of the village and over the by-pass. Then there were some steep climbs, some on lanes, rather unexpected for what was to be an easy day.

The section from the last road climb to the end was a sheer delight over rolling farmland and wooded hills. The first view of Windermere came as a wonderful surprise, opening up as we came out of a small wood. Then it was a plunge down a steep drop, only stopping to have photographs at a slate and stone seat which signified the end of the Dales Way. Some girls, waiting at the bottom for a party which we had earlier overtaken, recognised us from the coffee shop in Sedbergh. The road down into Bowness was just as steep. It took us into a different world. Suddenly we were surrounded by tourist, cars and commotion.  We found David waiting for us near the ferry pier. The tea shops were so busy we would never have got served so we jumped into David’s car and he drove us to The Station Hotel in Oxenholme where we partook of some refreshments whilst we waited for our train home.

Skelsmergh (09.12) – Bowness-on-Windermere (13.27)  GPS 11.60 ml in 4-15-16

Luckily I looked up the progress of our prospective train only to discover delays along the line coming south out of Scotland. So David took us down to Carnforth Station where a train from Barrow took us to Manchester. All went well until we reached Oxford Road Station where it was announced that a relief driver could not be located and there was no one able to take the train any further. Rather than wait (we had a connection to catch) we decided to walk to Piccadilly and got an extra mile and a half on the day’s total for our sins. But at least we got back home on time and I caught my lift home. We had left in rain and had arrived in a heat wave and not a drop of rain had fallen in between. We were blessed for this wonderful trip. 

Central Highlands

Corrour Station - Strathpeffer, 1^st–5^th May 2014

Introduction

Our end-to-end project is now entering the latter stages. Last year we terminated our walk in awful weather on Rannoch Moor, not being able to resist the temptation of jumping on a train home when we got to Corrour Station. To resume our northerly journey, we had to retrace our train journey back onto the moor. A train from Manchester dropped us into the streets of Glasgow in weather that was reminiscent of last year. We had to don all our wet weather gear for the walk to Queens Street. Here the Fort William section of the train was struggling to start its engines so we all had to crowd into two carriages and arrived late in Crianlarich where the Oban bound passengers left us. We were further delayed at Bridge of Orchy where we were held until the sleeper went passed. I was worried about the venison burger I had ordered at Corrour but the guard rang ahead and warned them we would be late. It was 10pm when we pulled into the dark wet station at the top of the world. My meal was ready and I washed it down with lovely beer from the Cairngorm brewery.

 

Thursday 1^st May 2014     Corrour – Kinloch Laggan

Mayday on Rannoch Moor

It was not very tempting to venture out onto the moor. The clag was down on the hills, it was very cold and windy and the air was full of wetness without it actually raining. Donning all our winter gear, we set out soon after 9am along the path upon which we finished a year before. This time however we kept along the southern shoreline of Loch Ossian and made fast progress to the lodge, an amazing building, at the eastern end of the lake. Here we met a construction team who were building a new hydro-electric scheme. The access road had completely obliterated the footpath up the glen. A supervisor gave us advice on how to wait for the diggers to see us and lower their buckets before proceeding through. One of the drivers got down from his cabin and directed us to the best route back to the path.  We then had a pleasant hour weaving our way along the burn before, on reaching the upper reaches, crossing and shinning up the steep southern slopes. The path that we were aiming for was an extraordinary construction, a beautifully drained trod on a raised dyke. We now made fast progress up to Bealach Dubh, our high point of the day. The views backward and forward were breath-taking.

 

Soon we were plunging down, checked briefly by a snowfield that lay across the path at an exposed point. After edging gingerly across we soon resumed our descent and stopped for a bite to eat lunch below the dramatic ridges of Ben Alder, now beginning to appear from the clouds. We then flew down to the valley floor and Culna Bothy. A notice stopped Mike from entering, ‘beware asbestos’. On we walked passed Loch Pattack and along a very wet track beside the river. Then the route became drier and grassier, the temperature rose and we were able to take off some of our winter gear. At last we came to a fork to the left to reach Kinloch Laggan some two miles ahead. We dropped through a wood to the lochside and onto a tarmac road from the Ardverikie Estate. It came as a relief to find that there was a mobile signal and I was able to ring our B&B and beg a pick-up. We emerged over a narrow bridge near the gate and lodge of the estate and onto the main road. In a few minutes our lift arrived and we were wheeling along towards our night’s accommodation. The Rumblie is a lovely bungalow in the village of Laggan. It has a small bar and a bistro. The food is served in a glass conservatory where one can eat whilst watching the birds outside on the bird feeders.

Corrour Station dep. 09.09, Kinloch Laggan arr. 17.05 with a lunch stop 12.57-13.12 just beyond the Bealach Dubh.  GPS 23.86 miles in 7hr 40m 26s + 15 min lunch stop.

 

We stayed at the Rumblie, Gregask Avenue, Laggan which is at least 5 miles off route. I had beef lasagne from the bistro menu and stick toffee pudding. The bottled beers were again from the wonderful Cairngorm Brewery, trying Sheepshaggers Gold (4.5%) and Caillie (3.8%).

  

Friday 2^nd May 2014       Kinloch Laggan – Fort Augustus
Corrieyairack and Pylons

The weather forecast was marvellous, sunshine and negligible wind even on the summits. Simon took us back in the Prius to where he had met us the previous evening and we set off round the lochside looking at the most perfect setting of snow-covered hills reflected in the still waters. Turning right up a track, we found ourselves on a construction road for the new electricity line. This eventually turned off and we proceeded to Sherramore on the original grassy surface. Here we turned onto General Wade’s Military Road which we followed passed Garva Bridge, Melgrave and up over the Corrieyairack Pass. We paused for a bite to eat before attempting the final zig-zags. Views were good but spoilt by the new line of pylons, the construction vehicles and access track. From the top, the military road kept to itself and provided a long and pleasant descent passed a house called Blackburn and down to a stream at the foot of the pass.

Here I took a questionable route choice, following the steam to the Culachy Falls. The path became increasingly overgrown and the falls were hidden behind the thick vegetation so we ended up on a narrow but signposted trod that brought us through a wood near Culachy House. The falls were obviously not a popular visitor attraction. We entered Fort Augustus via the burial ground, old and new, and then a mile along the main road. Guessing where the old railway may have come out, it was not difficult to identify Station Road. A house at the top of the hill bore the RBS Bank logo. Surely this could not be our B&B, but it was. Bank House used to be the bank manager’s house but has been sold off separately and now shares the building with the bank. Our host recommended a pub facing the canal and backed up her recommendation by appearing there herself for a meal.

Kinloch Laggan dep. 09.15, Fort Augustus arr. 17.30, GPS 24.18 miles in 7hrs 51m 19s plus a 20 minute lunch stop.

We stayed at Bank House, Station Road, Fort Augustus. We ate at the Lock Inn: chicken curry followed by Loch Ness muddies (chocolate torte). The beer was Batemans Yellabelly Gold (3.9%).

 

Saturday 3^rd May 2014    Fort Augustus – Tomich

The Balfour Beatty Way

As we emerged on another sunny morning, cool and perfect for walking, mountain bikes were arriving along the canal towpath and turning into the town. We asked marshals what was happening and were told of an event where competitors ride from Fort William, leave their bikes at Fort Augustus and then run/walk through the night along the Great Glen Way to Inverness. I was not tempted to join in. Instead I popped in a butchers to buy a pie for lunch and then we walked through the village and turned left towards Jenkins Park. Here we found a signpost pointing up the hill and indicating the start of the old military route.

We zig-zagged up on a delightful woodland path which, in the morning sun, could have been an Alpine route. If only the quality of the walking had lasted. Once we had levelled out we joined a forestry track which ran into a construction road for the new power lines. Now we were surrounded by health & safety notices which included demarcated mobile phone zones. So now we had a choice, we could try to follow the remnants of the old path or cut straight down the hillside into Glen Moriston using the Balfour Beatty Way. Not being luddites, we took the easy option and were soon on the road to Torgoyle Bridge and beyond.

Crossing the river, it was only a few yards before we found the construction road blazing its way up the opposite hillside. Just follow the pylons. In fast warming conditions we sweated and toiled up the stony and gritty track, ticking off the pylons one by one on our way to a 2000ft highpoint. There was the odd sign of the old route but it had mostly disappeared under the works access road. One mountain biker seemed pleased with the easy access to this remote area and we made steady progress towards our next destination.

On our way down we took a diversion to see the Plodda Falls and it was well worth the effort and the extra mile. The falls were spectacular, viewed either from above from a high viewing platform or from below in the deep wooded gorge. After an exciting half hour or so we then headed down the river, passing the ruins on Guisachan, the old home of Lord Tweedmouth, the man who moved Tomich to its present site and built the modern cottages which are now a conservation village with a huge monument to Lord Tweedmouth at its entrance.  

Fort Augustus dep. 09.15, Tomich arr. 16.45, GPS 20.35 in 7hr 09m 24s plus a 21 min halt to eat my pie. 

We stayed in Tomich Hotel, ate steak & ale pie & chips, followed by bread & putter pudding & custard (Mike had apoplexy). The real ale was An Teallach Ale (4.2%) from An Teallach Brewery, Dundonell.

Sunday 4^th May 2014     Tomich – Struy

Rest Day

There was no hurry this morning. The logistics of our walk were such that today we only had to shift 11 miles down the glen so as to be in the optimum position for the final day’s schedule. A leisurely breakfast and a chat with the owner had the cleaners waiting for our room. The sunny weather had departed and there was rain in the air as we headed north out of the village and up the road towards Cannich. We did not go through Cannich though, staying on the quieter lane on the east of the river. This continued all the way up to Struy and in that time we saw the very occasional vehicle and a group of horse riders. The only person we spoke to was a lady with a camera waiting for some photographs of birds round her feeders.

It threatened to rain several times and there was evidence of some puddles on the roads but it did not rain on us. Our luck with the weather was still holding. After a pleasant 3 hours or so through woodland of downy birch, we came to the bridge over the River Glass and into Struy. This seemed to consist of a pub and church and little else. Our accommodation for the night lay another half mile up the road at the Cnoc Hotel, which was situated above and back from the road in a rather bare garden

 

But they were most welcoming. Our rooms were not ready, not surprisingly as it was only lunchtime but we were led into the residents lounge, the fire was lit and we sat in luxury, still in our shorts, whilst we were served with coffee and scones. Mike had invited an old friend, a climbing partner from university days who now lives nearby with his wife, to join us for a drink. Jeff and Margaret arrived quite soon and we had a drink and a brief chat before they set off for a cycle. We meantime had showers and changed into more suitable clothes so that by the time Jeff and Margaret returned we were more appropriately attired for the residents lounge. The beers were served and the reminiscences began and Mike and Jeff were transported back to epic climbs in Glencoe. The drinks kept coming and the hours slipped away and then it was too late for our guests to go home to eat so food was ordered and we all ate together at the hotel and of course drank more beer and had more chat. So it was a lovely relaxing time with great company, a very nice rest day.

Tomich dep. 09.44, Struy arr. 13.25, GPS 11.25 miles in 3hrs 41m 09s.

We stayed in the Cnoc Hotel. I had fish and chips washed down by bottled Trade Winds (4.3%) from Cairngorm and Red Kite Ale (4.2%) from Black Isle.

 

Monday 5^th May 2014     Struy - Strathpeffer

River Crossing at Hangman’s Cottage

The one uncertainty of this year’s walk was whether we could wade the Allt Goibhre. If this proved impassable, a five mile detour would be necessary and our arrangements for getting home put in jeopardy. So we had an early start and got a steady pace going on our climb up the Erchless Burn. The weather was as yesterday, grey and threatening, and a cold wind had arisen. So it was back to the winter gear as we topped out the climb and began the long contour to Tighachrochadair. The path was waterlogged and we were slowed by the continual need to by-pass the wettest sections.

Eventually we could see the two buildings of Tighachrochadair below us. We failed to locate the start of the path that descended to the river so we set out hopefully into the grass & heather and came across the path halfway down. Tighachrochadair is in a remote situation, a deserted farm and barn on a grassy level beside a small river. The first building we came to was an open barn containing a huge notice board displaying photographs and newspaper cuttings from visiting walking groups. Some told the story of a woman who was revisiting this abandoned farm, her former home, in her dotage.

The moment had come. Down at the riverbank, it looked quite straightforward to wade the shallow waters. I had to stop halfway whilst Mike recorded the crossing. Then Mike pulled out the walking stick that he had carried for 5 days. At its first touch of the river bottom, it broke into two pieces. The swamp that faced us on the far side caused us more problems than the river crossing but we eventually pulled onto drier steeper ground and started a wet tramp towards where the map showed there to be a path. Suddenly two figures appeared ahead of us on a slight rise. So we turned towards them and found, as we expected, that these two were on the path. The woman was from Yorkshire and was planning a walk that she was due to lead in the near future. The older gentleman was introduced as a highlander. He told us how to pronounce Tighachrochadair and that it means Hangman’s Cottage. Then we asked him how one pronounces Cnoc. It sounded like Croc. When we were told that he was 85 years old we looked around in astonishment at the miles of wet featureless hills he must have crossed to get here. The air or water or whiskey must keep you young and healthy up here.

Happy that we had a few more years walking ahead of us, we set out into the wilderness which eventually ended on some high ground with staggering views of Beauly and Cromarty Firths and the Black Isle in between. We sat for a short lunch break looking out over the coastal plain and its green field below. We had not seen such fertility for days. Then we plunged down a steepening path to a 10ft high wooden kissing gate in which I got stuck. I eventually reversed out and tried again to get through without a rucksack on my back.

At the bottom we entered onto some quiet country lanes which eventually led us onto busier ‘A’ roads at Marybank. Our original plan had been to stay off road by going up the River Orrin, viewing the Falls of Orrin and then crossing into Contin over the Achonachie Dam. But we had heard, later confirm by our friends Jeff and Margaret, that access to this dam had been blocked by the power company. So the first bridge across the River Connon was Moy Bridge towards which we now walked. This valley must flood regularly as gates are in place to close the road. But we were fine and were soon crossing the Ullapool road and heading for a footpath marked on the map to Jamestown. This was obvious at first but the final section had been blocked by a farmer and we diverted up a field and climbed a low fence onto a lane. In Jamestown we saw the sign for a pathway through a wood into Strathpeffer and the finish of this year’s section of our end-to-end journey. There was a lovely little cafe serving coffee and Guinness cake. So we let one bus pass and had a relaxing hour in the tea shop. The next bus took us back to Inverness where we had a few hours to kill before our train home. So we had a quick look round the town and then went into a pub to a meal and some celebratory ale.

Struy dep. 08.45, Strathpeffer arr. 15.15, GPS 17.61 in 6hrs 13m 42s plus 21 mins lunch stop.

I ate steak pie and chips in a riverside pub in Inverness and some delightful Pollinated Heather Honey Beer (4.5%) from Black Isle on cask.

 

We caught the sleeper from Inverness to Crewe and then took the first bus home. A great walk in a little window of dry weather. Someone is looking down on us.

Howgills and Limestone Trail

Kirkby Stephen – Horton in Ribblesdale, 11^th – 14^th March 2014

 

Introduction

As the weather began to pick up, I grabbed a few walking guide books out of the library. The very next weekend, the weather man started his forecast with the words ‘on the weather map appears a word you will not have seen for 3 months “HIGH” ‘. I dropped everything, rang around a few b&b’s and packed a rucksack. The new book by David & Heather Pitt began to fascinate me. The route from Kirkby Stephen to Settle followed the railway line and provided easy access. It was also linked with Wainwright’s Pennine Journey, a book that deeply influenced me so many years ago. 

Tuesday 11^th March 2014       Kirkby Stephen Station – Ravenstonedale

A Multiplicity of Viaducts

I just had time for a mouthful of muesli before I picked up my rucksack and began the walk to the station. The fast train into Manchester was spot on time on what was a cool but magnificent morning, the like of which we had not experienced for months. There was a moment of panic when the Leeds train hit signalling problems, but it eventually got up to speed and left me less than 10 minutes to locate and board the Settle & Carlisle service. On a poor day this is a great trip but on a morning such as this, beneath a cloudless sky and between sunlit hills, it was truly memorable. The crossing of the Ribbleshead Viaduct was the highlight, before the dramatic crossing of Ais Gill Summit and the descent below Mallerstang.

 The station at Kirkby Stephen is so far out of the town that it is as though one has been dropped in the middle of the countryside. It was almost 2 miles to the church, with its paving stone dedicated to Alfred Wainwright and his Pennine Journey. I went first down to Frank’s Bridge and then back into town for some lunch. As I had already walked a couple of miles, I decided to leave out the guidebook’s loop round the Poetry Path and head straight off along the coast to coast route. This took me out through Greenriggs Farm and onto some vast open fields. Here I had great difficulty finding the correct line. I did not realise I would need my compass so early in the walk. I had packed it deep in my sack. Eventually I found the stiles and made my way round to Waitby and Smardale. Another navigational mistake here reminded me of the need to concentrate. I walked alongside another viaduct on the mainline, which I thought was Smardale Viaduct. Then it was a long drag down the old railway line now designated as Smardalegill Nature Reserve. Butterflies were flying already. This brought me to yet another viaduct, known as Smardalegill Viaduct, a lovely curved structure in a dramatically steep-sided valley. Here I met a couple who filled me in with local knowledge such as how the older locals pronounce Ravenstonedale. The man indicated a permissive route along the beck as an alternative to the dreary old railway. This was a delightful narrow path above the stream and through some disused quarries. This led to a path descending from the fell and heading down to Smardale Bridge. If I was to repeat this route I would next time take the high level route over Smardale Fell directly from Greenriggs.

From here it was a pleasant but muddy riverside path that eventually turned away from the river and headed over the fields and across the main road into Ravenstonedale. I arrived at my b&b at exactly the time I had estimated, finding my host unloading her car after a shopping trip. Just time for a hot shower and it was back though the village to the pub.

Kirkby Stephen Station dep. 12.30, Frank’s Bridge 13.05, lunch (13.10-13.50), Ravenstonedale 17.00

GPS 10.47 miles in 3hr 55m 07s.

I stayed at Westview, Ravenstonedale, Cumbria, CA17 4NG, Tel: 015396 23415. I ate in the Black Swan; chicken, haggis and bacon pie followed by bread& butter pudding and custard. The beer was Black Sheep Ale (4.4%).

Wednesday 12^th March 2014     Ravenstonedale  – Sedburgh

Crossing the Howgills

It was very cold at 9am when I left the my b&b and walked back through the quiet village under a cloudless sky. I regretted packing my gloves deep in the rucksack as I started on a 4 mile westerly journey to get to the foot of Bowderdale. Some of this first section was on roads, very quiet moorland lanes. Then there was a a nursery and garden centre to pass through in a most remote spot. My mobile phone began to pick up a signal and I was able to phone home and report in. At last Bowderdale Foot was reached and I turned south once more onto a bridleway into the Howgills.

The trek up Bowderdale was another 4 mile stretch, this time however in increasing dramatic scenery. The peaks of Randygill Top and Yarlside began to dominate the left-hand side of the valley. I passed two mountain bikers resting beside the waterlogged path. The trod had become a runoff for water draining down the hillside. Just before Bowderdale Head the main path forked right and started to climb up to the main crest. The guidebook suggested that the route should continue down passed Cautley Spout and on to the Cross Keys but I was intending to run two days into one and found no temptation to descend to a temperance pub. I therefore turned uphill and slowly gained the tops near the Calf. 

There followed a glorious traverse of the main ridge round to Bush Howe and Fell Head. I met a couple who had been in the Black Swan the previous night and we spent a few minutes chatting in the sunshine. A cool wind was blowing that made this ridge not the place to stop for a break. So I descended steeply down into a more sheltered spot on Whins End before getting out my bag of nuts and energy drink. I was soon on my way downwards  through Beck House and down to the River Lune. I dropped onto the Dales Way through the farm at Crook of Lune. Another disused railway viaduct dominated the westerly side of the valley. I followed the Dales Way until Bramaskew, then I set out over the fields to Height of Winder and thence onto Howgill Lane. At I descended the lane into the outskirts of Sedburgh, I saw a footpath not marked on the map which was signed to the cattle market. As this looked a short cut onto Station Road, I set off down and soon found myself at a new supermarket. I asked a lady if she knew where my b&b was and she guessed correctly as I was soon ringing the doorbell of Holmecroft, Station Road, Sedbergh, Cumbria LA10 5DW. Tel: 015396 20754, my accommodation for the night.

Ravenstonedale dep. 09.05, lunch on Whins End (14.00 - 14.11), Sedburgh arr. 16.46

GPS 18.58 miles in 7hrs 28m 26s plus the 11 min lunch stop.

John, my host, made me a nice cup of tea and advised me on the eating houses in town. So I soon put on my sandals and walked the half mile into Sedbergh. Here I looked at each of the recommended pubs and settled on the Dalesman where I had fish and chips followed by Bakewell tart and ice cream. The beers were Lancaster Amber, Lancaster Brewery (3.7%) and Main Line, Settle Brewery (3.8%).

Thursday 13^th March 2014    Sedbergh – Ingleton

Pot Holes on the Route

It was a very foggy morning. This seemed to add to the low morning temperature. My landlady told me that the forecast was for the mist to burn off by 11am, so I did not get my gloves out but wore my fleece as I went round passed an old church and the school playing fields. At Birks I crossed the river and then followed it through a wood and over a golf course. This led onto a narrow lane that climbed onto a moor where a bridle way led left across the grass. I needed a compass to find the correct line across the open moorside. In the next lane a large truck came menacingly towards me and I had no alternative but to climb a bank and hang from the hedge whilst it edged passed. Just as this lane came out onto the main road, the track to Fellside Farm set off upwards and eastwards. The climb onto the next range of hills went on for miles. But, as I climbed, I slowly came out of the wet clammy fog into a sunlit landscape of green hills and blue sky, with all the surrounding valleys filled with white cotton wool.

For six miles, I was above the weather in glorious sunshine and high level walking; one of the best sections of hill walking I  had done for a very long time. Eventually the ridge began to descend and by the time I was on Eskholme Pike, I was back in the mist and searching for my compass. Down at valley level, the mist had not as promised burnt off but had left a grey murky day. Rather than drop into Barbon village, I cut across Barbon Park and set off on the next section of the trail through the woods to Blindbeck Bridge. Here I crossed the beck and cut back down the road to find the start of an awful stony bridleway up to Bullpot Farm. Off road vehicles, maybe rescue teams from pot hole accidents, had left the track rutted and waterlogged. I stopped briefly by the farm to have a few nuts and some water and then set off down an equally muddy path into pothole country. Years ago I had descended Lancaster Hole, now out there somewhere on the nearside moorside. My own present day excitement was still to come. The path continued up and down until I was suddenly faced with a steep grassy descent. A path zig-zagged down to a stile which led into Ease Gill Kirk, a dark and spooky cleft of rock in a predominantly dry valley. The Ease Gill cave system was below. I tried to go through at valley level but found the rocky and slippery gorge increasing threatening. I was eventually confronted by a smooth rocky chute into a deep pool. The only alternative, without retreating, was to shin up a steep grassy scramble with led up to a narrow trod high up on the wall of the gorge. A delicate traverse brought me out into sunlight once more and a gate led onto the open fell.

The next two miles was a very enjoyable tramp over wet grassland above the beck. I noticed bubbles coming for a large puddle on the path in front. Closer investigation revealed a group of large light-green frogs swimming around and tending to their precious frog-spawn. A boggy traverse above a forest brought me to a grassy descent over well drained fields into the valley bottom near the village of Leck. The day was still not over however and a mile or so of road led to Ireby and a long section of field paths which, farm by farm, brought me eventually to Thornton Hall and the turn into Ingleton. The path came straight out into the bottom end of village for where it was a steep climb up to the centre and my b&b. This was entered through a front garden full of plants and I found my host for the night tending his bedding plants. The old farm was very basic downstairs but the bedrooms were lovely. Adrian had kept the old baths and toilets which added to the character of the place. I was soon lying in a piping hot bath foaming with muscle relaxant.

Sedbergh dep. 09.00, the Calf 11.45, Barbon 13.05, lunch at Bullpot Farm (13.57 - 14.10),

Ingleton 17.45
GPS 22.47 miles in 8hrs 31m 01s plus the 13 min lunch stop.

I stayed at Seed Hill Guest House, High Street, Ingleton, LA6 3AB, Tel: 015242 41799

I ate at the Wheatsheaf, Honey Cider Belly Pork and sticky toffee pudding. The beer was Threakston’s Best Bitter and Marston EPA.

Friday 14^th March 2014     Ingleton – Horton in Ribblesdale

Another Battle with Ingleborough

At dawn it had promised to be another sunny day but by the time (08.41) I left Seed Hill, the mist was collecting above the village. I had got an early start in the expectation of having a long and challenging last day. I had decided to go straight up the main track for Ingleborough summit rather than the extended loop suggested in the guidebook: this included three miles of road walking. As I gained height, I expected to walk out of the mist as I had done the previous day but the visibility seem to deteriorate and it got colder and windier. I was almost blown off the steep steps up to the summit plateaux and I had to pause to put on fleece and winter gear before venturing any further.

Ingleborough and I have history. The last time I ventured over the summit, at the end of a three peaks round, I had been hit by a blizzard and had messed up the navigation from the summit cairn to the start of the Horton path. I had come across on a bearing of 80 degrees but had hit the eastern cliffs and in the whiteout had not known which way to turn. This time I failed to find the summit cairn: it was a very thick mist. So I crossed the plateau on a compass bearing of 75 and still hit the east face. This time I knew I had to turn left and soon shot down a good path. Pausing once again to check the compass, I realised I was heading south and had descended onto the Clapham path. So it was back to the top once more for another push northwards. At last I was descending eastwards and after dropping through some rocks, traversed across grass to the main Horton path.

The long descent to Horton does not get any easier. In a cold gale blowing wet cloud across the fell side, the path was as stony, rutted, slippery and waterlogged as I remembered it from previous passages. It took an age to reach the final grassy fields and the last ridge over to the railway station. A peek at the timetable revealed that the next train was over an hour away. I was wet, cold and mentally tired from another battle with Ingleborough. I decided to abandon the day, go for a coffee in the café and forget about the continuation to Settle. There was no point. Visibility was poor, the weather was deteriorating even more and I suddenly wanted to go home. I changed clothes in the public toilets and walked on to the café. I was stunned to find it closed, even though the winter opening times were clearing indicating the opposite. So I walked back to the Crown, had soup and a coffee there, and then retreated back to the station waiting room. The 13.24 was running late and left little time to make a connection at Leeds. It was standing room only across the Pennines to Manchester. And this is the train company that will lose some of its rolling stock next year to a London train company. Virgin trains were experiencing delays at Piccadilly due to a fatality on the line so I was in time to catch a service that should have left half an hour beforehand. So I was back in Macclesfield by 4.30pm. What had started as a glorious sunny walk had ended in cold and gloom. The little glimpse of spring was over.

Ingleton dep. 08.41, Ingleborough summit 10.05, Horton Station (12.14)

GPS 8.78 miles in 3hrs 33mins.

End piece

 
I had based this walk on the new publication ‘Howgills and Limestone Trail’ but I did not stick faithfully to the suggested route. I found that the suggested stages had in some cases been extended to make 11/12 mile days by adding unnecessary loops (admittedly to places of interest). But by straightening out the route, I was able to do two stages a day without much problem and to produce a Pennine Journey of my own. Remind me though never to do that Horton path off Ingleborough again.