Introduction
Spring takes
a long time to get going now-a-days. Opportunities for multi-day walking, i.e.
a sustained dry spell, did not crop up in the early part of this year so we
went travelling in central America and then came home to wait for the big
chance. This came in late April. I had bought some new walking shoes and socks,
was in need of a good bit of mileage in my legs and did not want to go far from
home. So ‘The Inn Way to the Peak District’ by Mike Reid was just the job and I
set off clutching the guidebook just before the good weather was due to arrive.
Monday 18th April 2016 Hayfield
- Hathersage
A Tough Start to the Year
An early
train to Stockport enabled me to catch the 9.30am bus to Hayfield. I was
walking by 10.25am, leaving the village via Kinder Road and then turning left
up the steep bank at the start of the Snake Path, passing the shooting cabin,
to the foot of William Clough. A long line of walkers were on the lower path
passing the reservoir and I speeded up in an attempt to arrive at William
Clough before them. We arrived at the same time but they kindly let me through
to begin the long and tiring climb. It was overcast with a bitingly cold wind
but the forecast drizzle kept away. The clough was wetter than I had expected
with some sections of difficult boggy ground. I was delighted that the last
shale slope had now been bypassed by a new set of steps up the steep ground to the
right. .So I pulled from a vertical world onto the bleak and cold col below
Mill Hill.
Crossing the
Pennine Way, I continued on towards Ashop Clough. At first this was paved and I
was just beginning to think that the long descent was going to be a stroll in
the park when the paving suddenly ran out and I was faced with some very deep
mire. In trying to skirt it to the left, I met all sorts of problems, slipping
and sliding into deeper bog. My average speed was dropping alarmingly and I was
much more tired than I had anticipated. So it seemed to take an age to arrive
at the plantation at the foot of Ashop Cough where the path turned left over a
footbridge and up a bank to the Snake Pass Road.
The path on
the other side of the road was entirely new to me. It started off steeply
uphill and then ran alongside a plantation before sharply losing all that
precious height in one vertical grassy field. At the bottom, I stepped over the
stream in Oyster Clough and climbed up into a lovely section of sheep-cropped
farmland. This eventually dropped back to the Snake Road. The clouds had now
departed and the sun was making sterling efforts to warm the Earth. So I
stopped briefly near Alport Bridge and chewed a flapjack. Then, as I shinned up
the ankle-breaking path towards Hope Cross, I came up to a couple from Doncaster
who were trying to find the path back to Hagg Farm. We walked together for 15
minutes until their path diverted from mine. They turned left and downhill
whilst I tramped onwards and upwards towards Win Hill. This always takes longer
than it appears but eventually I scrambled up onto the rocky summit and touched
the trig point. Then the scramble was reversed and care was taken to ensure I
came off in the right direction. I could not afford to make a mistake at this stage
in the day. The descent to Yorkshire Bridge was just as steep and desperate as
I remembered it. I used to run down this in the dark, but alas no longer. I
slipped and stumbled from tree to tree and was quite relieved when I finally
fell onto the track at the bottom.
The
guidebook took me then on unknown paths, first passed the pub, up New Road and
across farmland to the village of Bamford, then through quiet lanes and
bridleways until Hathersage came into view below and there was a lovely drop
into the village and my accommodation for the night. It had been a much tougher
day than I had expected.
Hayfield
dep. 10.25, Hathersage arr. 18.00
GPS 18.76 miles in 7hr 35m 45s
I stayed at the
Scotsman’s Pack, School Lane, Hathersage, eating venison cottage pie and
original Bakewell pudding and ice cream. The beer was Ringwood Boondoggle
(4.2%) in fabulous condition. Or maybe I was just thirsty.
Tuesday 19th April 2016 Hathersage
– Youlgrave
A Walk on the Edge
With such a
big day ahead of me, I needed an early start so I requested an early breakfast.
The chef was there at 8am and provided me with a lovely full English which I
had ordered the previous evening. I got away before 8.45am and set off passed
the church on a most magnificent morning, cool but not a cloud in the deep blue
sky. The first few miles were up rolling grassy farm land and the route passed
North Lees Hall, thought to be Charlotte Bronte’s model for Thornfield Hall in
Jane Eyre. A pleasant wood led to higher ground and the boulder fields below Stanage.
A flagged path took me through the rocks and onto the edge from where the views
were wonderful.
I then
traversed the first of the edges, along a rocky and sometimes muddy path which
eventually climbed slightly up to a trig point situated on a rocky outcrop. The
route dropped down through the boulders onto flat moorland where a good path
took me quickly to Upper Burbage Bridge. Another rocky path went over a low
ridge where Higger Tor came into view. A short drop and flat path then led
straight to the foot of the tor. A short pull got me onto the summit plateau which
was quickly traversed. I had some problems finding the optimum route down to
the Carl Wark path. Instead of coming off the south-east corner, I dropped to
the right steeply through some large rocks and ended up having to traverse back
to the left across the moor below.
The
suggested route does not climb up onto Carl Wark but turns east and drops down
the wet slopes to cross Burbage Brook at a stone footbridge. In no time I was
crossing the main road near Fox House and heading through the Longshawe Estate.
A volunteer from National Trust stopped for a chat about the potential for a
visit with the grandchildren. More of the estate was crossed in contouring
round the moorside over more roads, passing the Grouse, and then onto the next
section of the edges. It was hot and exposed on the long tramp over to Curbar
Gap and I was glad of the sun-cream, Tilley hat and UV sun-glasses. By the time
I had come to the Wellington Monument and slithered down the stony path into
Baslow, I was more than ready for a coffee and cake. The 15 minutes or so that
I spent in the Café on the Green was just sufficient to prepare me for a very
long and hot afternoon.
I have done
the crossing of the Chatsworth Estate so many times that I switched onto cruise
control. So when I noticed that the guidebook suggested a silly diversion up to
Park Cottage, I ignored the book and tramped forever onwards along the river
bank. Eventually one has to leave the river to make for Beeley church and the
lovely village. After miles of flat walking, it came as quite a shock to climb
up the very steep fields to Burnt Wood but I was at last in shade. An enclosed
path took me back down to Rowley where a short section along the A6 took me
back over the river and onto the last stage of my day’s walk.
From now I
had to concentrate on the complex navigation as the route crossed farmland and
woods and up steep roads until it eventually pulled onto the top on Stanton
Moor. The traverse of the moor was spoilt somewhat by the presence of three
youths smoking, drinking and lounging over the Nine Ladies stone circle. So I
did not have my hoped-for atmospheric pause, but kept on over the moor and eventually
turning right passed the Cork Stone and down to the road. As I dropped down the
delightful path behind Birchover, I noticed again that the guidebook suggested
an unnecessary diversion. This I again ignored and continued down to the Druids
Inn and onwards and downwards through Rocking Stone Farm and steeply down to
the road. Then began another big climb up to Robin Hood’s Stride but it was
getting cooler now as the sun got lower in the sky. At Harthill Moor Farm, a
new diversion to the Limestone Way had been painted on the wall. It had always
been a strangely unwelcoming farm so I was glad at this late stage in the day
to try a new by-pass but it was not a good route. The diversion took me down
the road and left into a dark plantation along a very muddy path. If it had
shortened the route, I would not have minded but I ended up just the other side
of the foresaid farm and with an extra half mile and inch of mud on tired legs.
There were also changes in the main signed route down to Youlgrave, so someone
does not like walkers around here. I crossed the brook and decided to go
straight up the road to the church so I would not overshoot my pub. But I need
not have bothered; the slanting path to the left would have been a more direct
route. It had been a very long day.
Hathersage dep.08.43,
Youlgrave arr. 18.50
GPS 25.39 miles in 9hrs 51m 20s walking time plus 15+ minute
lunch stop at Baslow (13.50-14.07).
I stayed at the Farmyard Inn, Main Street, Youlgrave (in
the cowshed). I ate fish, chips and mushy peas followed by original Bakewell
pudding and ice cream. The beer was Greene King and I tried both the Marmalade
on Toast (4.5%) and the IPA Gold (4.1%).
Wednesday 20th April 2016 Youlgrave – Eyam
Straightening The Route
I made a
complete mess of breakfast and an early start. I went down into the downstairs
bar and sat in silence for 20 minutes before finding that breakfast was being
served in a small room upstairs. So it was 9.30am before I got out of the back
door of the pub and put the rucksack on in the car park. I wandered down the
main street trying to find the upper end of the path slanting down into the
dale. I eventually asked a local and was directed down a side street and on to
the correct path. Although it was another magnificent morning, a layer of cold
air sat in the bottom of the dale and made me regret putting my running shorts
on. I had rarely seen Lathkill Dale looking more beautiful in the early morning
sunshine and with so few people yet around. It was a blissful two hours round
via Alport and up the dale to Monyash. The top end was its usual ankle-breaking
self but at least the limestone boulders were dry. Rather than go round through
Monyash, I cut straight across the road and up the muddy dale that by-passes
the village. Here I got to looking at the proposed route in the guidebook and
decided that, as I had another long day scheduled, I should take the
opportunity straightening the route out. This should reduce the day by a few
miles and take out a long section of road walking.
So, after
passing Monash, I went straighten on over the fields to Hard Rake and then
directly down the full length of Deepdale. I saw no-one in the dale until I
came out into the car park on the A6. There were more walkers around after this
and by the time I got to the viaduct, there was a procession of walkers and
cyclist down the old railway, the Monsal Trail. I once again declined the
invitation of the guide book to cross the river and climb up to Monsal Head. I
went straight onto the Monsal Trail, turned left and went quickly along to
Cressbrook Mill. Here I again straightened out the route, deciding to miss out
the loop into Tideswell and Litton. So I proceed up the road from the mill and
then forked right into Cressbrookdale. I missed the lower path through the wood
and ended up high on the hillside with a magnificent view along the upper part
of the dale. This rather fortuitously by-passed a waterlogged section of the
dale but it involved a long and steep grassy descent.
I knew that
the Three Stags Heads would not be open but I was taken by surprise to see a sign
for a café at Wardlow Mires which changed the direction of my momentum. But,
after crossing the main road and panting up through the car park, I found that
this had just closed (at 3pm!!). So it was ever onwards, this time on paths I
knew well, over the fields to Foolow. I had half a mind to stop at the Bull’s
Head and seek accommodation but this was firmly closed until 6pm. It is a
strange land we live in where the cafes closed at 3pm and the pubs do not open
until 6pm. With my decisions made for me, I continued over the field path to
Eyam and turned right, passing the hall and church, to reach the Miners Arms.
And they had a room for me! My route straightening had reduced the schedule by
four miles and made it a very manageable day in such warm and pleasant conditions.
Youlgrave
dep. 09.25, Eyam arr. 16.55
GPS 18.09 ml in 7hr 17min 34sec plus a ten minute
break on the Monsal Trail.
I stayed at the
Miners’ Arms in Eyam, dining on Gressingham Duck with orange source followed by
bread and butter pudding and cream. The beer was once again Greene King. I
sampled the St Edmunds Gold at 4.2% and Old Speckled Hen at 4.5%. I had no
problems sleeping after this.
Thursday 21st April 2016 Eyam
– Hope
Hope to Finish Early
I had more
success finding breakfast this morning so, after a pleasant full English, I was
on my way soon after 9am.It was another fabulous morning although the very
steep pull onto Eyam Edge gave me two reasons for having my breath taken away.
As I set out over Eyam Moor I reflected upon the fact that this was the third
consecutive day without a cloud in the sky. I had only every crossed here once
before and I had forgotten what a fantastic piece of countryside it is. The
long gentle descent to Stoke Ford was a delight and then the pull up Abney
Clough was equally enjoyable. I nearly missed the right turn in Abney hamlet
but was soon on my way into a much more barren moorland landscape. The long
descent to Brough was down a wide and stony track which was a bit wearisome. So
it was a relief to cross the road at the bottom of the hill and get onto grassy
paths once more, the first of which crossed over the site of a Roman fort. At
the next road crossing just above Hope, there was a bench and I stopped
momentarily for a drink of water. This proved fatal to my plans. I saw a train
passing by so I looked up on my phone the times of the next train to Manchester
and, lo and behold, there was one due in 20 minutes. So I made an instantaneous
decision to halt my walk and go home. They say you should always finish wanting
more. Working on that theory I strode into the station with a few minutes to
spare and was soon sitting with my feet up staring out of the train window at
some of the most beautiful countryside in the world.
Eyam dep. 09.04,
Hope Station arr. 12.30
GPS 7.94 miles in 3hrs 20m 55s
I caught the
12.40 train to Manchester Piccadilly and was quickly heading for home.
Afterthoughts
It is always
a challenge to get out for the first long walk of the year and this proved a
tough route. I was glad not to be too far from home so I could abandon it as
and when I felt like it. The concept of the Inn Way is splendid and it provided
endless choice of accommodation, food and beer. I knew many of the paths so was
often tempted to straighten out what I considered pointless deviations based on
people wanting shorter days. If there was one thing I learnt was not to get to
fixated with following the guidebook, but to use it as a general way to facilitate
a walk in one of my favourite counties. In the first good spell of spring
weather, I had got 70 miles into my legs which should set me up well for the challenges
of the coming year.
