Monday 19th September 2016 Ogmore by Sea - Porthcawl
Into the Sand
This was the
second year of our twelve year project for walking around the coast of Wales.
Last year we walked from Chepstow to Ogmore by Sea before taking a bus to
Bridgend station. So, this time slightly later in the year, we were heading
back to Bridgend and Ogmore to continue from where we left off. Phil was round
early so he could park his car for the week and be ready for the lift to
Wilmslow. My wife delivered us in good time for the 09.46 Arriva Wales train to
South Wales. On a cloudy and damp morning, we travelled through the beautiful
Welsh Marches and round the south coast to Bridgend. Arriving near 20 minutes
late, we were tight for our bus connection and only had time to grab a take-away
coffee and sausage rolls which we consumed on the short bus ride out to Ogmore
by Sea. We got off at the exact bus stop that ended last year’s walk and
dropped into the car park to take the mandatory photographs. The 2016 edition
of the Wales Coast Path was underway.
We then
retraced the bus route back up the river to Ogmore. Here there was a footbridge
across the river that led to a delightful little hamlet of thatched cottages
and old church in a sheltered woodland setting. A lane led to a castle. In the
car park we crossed onto a sandy path whilst failing to set eyes of the castle
itself. This sandy path got sandier and sandier as we cut back towards the
river and we ended up skirting round a system of large dunes. Or we though they
were large as we had no idea what was to come. So after 90 minutes of walking,
and with 4.5 miles on our GPS, we ended up about 200 yards from where we had
started, but on the opposite bank of the estuary. Oh for the courage to wade
rivers!
Just as a
shower of rain came in from the sea, the waymarked route led us onto a large
stretch of exposed beach which, as it was low tide, made easy going until we
came to a rock shelf that blocked further progress. The official path then
continued behind the dunes until we could descend once more onto the beach and
the final run in to a holiday park. At a lifeboat station, a lovely but
deserted sandy beach opened up, Sandy Bay, and we crossed this to reach
Porthcawl harbour and town centre. As the rain eased, we turned away from the
sea to find our accommodation for the night and prepare ourselves for our first
sally into the drinking dens of South Wales,
Ogmore by Sea
dep. 13.55, Porthcawl arr. 16.52 GPS
8.38 miles in 2hr 56m 37s
We stayed in
the Butterfly Guest house, Mary Street, Porthcawl. We were recommended the Lorelei
Hotel as the best real ale in town, a superb Golden Arrow (4.5%) from Cottage
Brewing in Somerset. We then moved on to the Royal Oak for a meal of belly pork
followed by strawberry sponge and ice cream. I had to make do with Doom Bar (4.0%)
and Ruddles County (4.7%).
Tuesday 20th September 2016 Porthcawl - Swansea
TATA for Now
The weather
was clear; the sky was blue as we made our way back to the sea front. The
promenade looked lovely in the morning sunshine. As we approached the golf
course, the view down the coast opened up. The dominant feature was the distant
steel works and its periodic plumes of steam. But in the foreground was Sker
House, a dark yellow colour, lit up by the low sun, And the smoke and steam
seemed to be emanating from its chimneys!
Beyond Sker
House, we broke out onto Kenfig Burrows, a huge area of grass-covered dunes,
now a nature reserve. We knew that a footbridge had been missing last year and
we certainly did not wish to take the inland option for this section of the
coast path. So it was some relief to come to a brand new and very sturdy wooden
structure that took us out of the burrows and up a sunken sandy path around a
complex area of dunes. We started to encounter signs of industrial use as we
passed through new growths of woodland on old railway sidings. Eventually the
route brought us to actively-used sidings at the entrance to the steel works
and then across the main line. The pleasant part of the day was over.
To get round
the TATA steel works, we started alongside a busy dual carriageway, and then
dived through a ginnel into a long stretch of suburban housing in Margam. After
what seemed an age, we broke out of the housing estates and back onto the dual
carriageway and continued passed several roundabouts. Eventually we crossed a
river bridge and were able to turn back through Port Talbot towards the sea.
What a relief it was to hit the promenade at Aberavon and walk by the sea once
more. It was also a relief to see a coffee shop. We were in need of something
to revive the spirits. A custard slice and cappuccino were just the thing and,
after a 30 minute break, we donned our sacks and venture back onto the prom.
Here we met a young man, Tom Davies, who was walking in ten weeks what we were
proposed to do in twelve years. He was circumnavigating Wales in a single contiguous
expedition, camping where he could and encouraging charitable donations for
Alzheimer’s Research. I shall follow his progress with a passion.
The
waymarked route took us onto the beach at the end of the promenade. It is
always easier to see the signs onto the beach than off it again. In the absence
of any indication of a route through the dunes, even though the map indicated
one, we continued on easy wet sand to the mouth of the river and then inland up
the estuary. We thus avoided any dunes but found ourselves in increasingly
softer mud and running side streams. We aimed at a pipe line that came out of
an industrial plant on a raised gantry. Passing under this pipeline we reached
a track that was above high water so were able to make fast progress once again
towards the two bridges across the river. The route passes under the motorway
and up to the A-road and then across the bridge.
On the other
side, we found ourselves alongside a very busy A-road and it seemed a long time
before we were able to turn off this and head inland towards Jersey Marine.
Here we picked up the tow path of an old canal, the Tennant Canal, This quickly
became totally overgrown and impassable but the path swung away onto a cycle
route that took us most of the way into Swansea. The main road was re-crossed
on a bridge which is now a bus lane and which took us into new developments
around the docklands. Here on the edge of a huge dock was our hotel for the
night. It had been a long and sometimes depressing day.
Porthcawl
dep. 08.50, Swansea arr. 16.20 GPS 22.52
miles in 7hr 01m 46s moving plus a 25 minute café stop on the promenade at
Aberavon (13.00-13.25)..
We stayed at
the Premier Inn on the Waterfront in Swansea. This was very handy for the city
centre and in particular for Wind Street and its eating houses. We found a Weatherspoon’s,
the Bank Statement, and I had a huge lamb shank to offset the rigours of the
day. I so enjoyed this that I celebrated with pancakes and ice cream, all
washed down with beer from a local Swansea brewery, Boss Brewing. I sampled
Boss Blaze (4.5%) and Boss Brave (an IPA at 5.5% this helped me sleep).
Wednesday 21st September 2016 Swansea – Port Eynon
Mumble in the Dunes
Being in a
hotel, we took the opportunity of a very early breakfast and were standing on
the dockside with sacks on backs before 8.30am. The city looked lovely in the
bright morning sunshine with a clarity of light that was almost Mediterranean. Even though some drizzle came in from the
sea, this impression of a Riviera coast continued along the promenade and cycle
path, passed the University and all the way to the Mumbles. Here, with its quiet
harbour and coffee shops, looked the perfect place for a morning stop but it
was far too early and, on reaching the pier and lifeboat station, we turned up
a flight of steps and out onto a high headland. We entered a different world.
The dramatic Gower coastline opened up in front of us, the wind was in our
faces and an exhilarating feeling overtook us. The first part of the coast path
was tarmac and it was easy going around the headlands and bays. We had set
ourselves the challenge of walking ten miles before succumbing to the teas
shops and Caswell Bay met these criteria perfectly as we dropped into the
Surfside café for Victoria sponge and orange polenta.
We took the
high tide route (no choice) out of the Caswell Bay along a road that was closed
to cars due to some roadworks. We slipped between the diggers and along a wild section of cliff path that
climbed and fell through the overgrown undercliff. The first drop was into
Brandy Cove where we met a couple of journalist taking photographs (‘a busman’s
holiday’ one said). We struggle to find the route out of the cove and had to
ask a resident of the beachside cottage. Then the journalists returned to show
us where we had gone wrong and we were soon, after posing for a photo,
scrambling up through the dense woodland. It was slow going to get over a high
headland but then we speeded up again on a long grassy descent to the road
which we followed to Southgate. Here we met a large party of Duke of Edinburgh
contenders all looking relieved to be finishing in the village. We carried on
across open grassland grazed by cattle of a breed I did not recognise. This led
us to a descent into a huge dune system the like of which I had not seen since
a holiday in Namibia. I ended up almost crag-bound high above a river estuary
at Three Cliff Bay. Whilst I was working out a decent strategy, an adder
crawled across the path in front of Phil. Eventually we were able to scree-run
(sand run) the last few feet onto the estuary mud. We plodded across the wet
estuary to reach a set of stepping stones. Here we had to wait for a large party
of Russian children to cross before we could take our turn. The next section
will stay long in our memory. The way-markings pointed to a sandy gully and we
embarked on a massive climb up the dry sand to the top of the next headland. It
went on and on, still more sand and still more climbing. It was a wonderful moment
when we pulled out on a flat grass plateau and into the sunshine,
After this
amazing climb, the route was a lot easier. A grassy cliff-top track led
gradually down through some woodland and out into a most delightful nature
reserve, Nicholaston Burrows, a flat and grassy area of sand, crawling with
wildlife. We found truffles under an oak tree, some lovely cranesbills,
probably the Bloody Cranesbill, and a bright red dragon fly. This section ended in a wooden footbridge which took us on
to a vast beach. Easy walking on firm flat sand took us to Oxwich Bay and our
second stop of the day (I must be getting soft). We sat at a beach-side kiosk
and had freshly-made sandwiches and piping hot tea. This gave us the strength
for the final pull of a long day.
A short walk
at sea level through the woods brought us to a church entire hidden in the
trees. St Illtyd’s Church was at the foot of some steps, well over 200, I
believe, that led up wooded hillside. A short flat section then ended in a
descent back to sea level down what I assume would be an equal number of steps
(not so, says the guidebook). It was a sting in the tail at the end of a strenuous day.
So we were glad of an easy finish along a grassy shelf between the cliffs and
the sea. One diversion delayed us briefly but we were soon traipsing into Port
Eynon where we had to ring our host for the evening to find our b&b. It was
right opposite the pub. There is a God!
Swansea dep.
08.36, Port Eynon arr. 17.40, GPS 23.64 miles in 8hrs 26m 08s walking time plus
a morning coffee stop at Caswell Bay (11.30-11.55) and a very late lunch break
in Oxwich Bay (15.00-15.30).
We stayed in the Rickyard in Port Eynon and ate across the
road at the Ship Inn. I could not resist the fish and chips and I then tucked
away a stick toffee pudding. It was our first taste of Gower Gold (4.5%) from
the Gower Brewery in Swansea. I finished with a swift half of Gower Power
(5.5%) .
Thursday 22nd September 2016 Port Eynon – Llanmadoc
The Worm has Turned
The
scheduled mileage was not so great today so we could have a later and more
leisurely breakfast and a more sedate start. It was another beautiful morning.
We had been blessed with perfect weather for walking. The waymarked coast path
led us briefly onto the beach. Then an easy climb on grassy slopes took us out
to Port Eynon Point and back into dramatic coastal scenery. The first hour was
over superb clifftop grassland and it was here that we had a most interesting
encounter with a rare bird. Coming round a shallow depression, we were greeted
by a chough feeding on the slope just 20 yards ahead. I have never seen a
chough this close before and certainly never been able to watch one on the
ground for several minutes. Then it was time to move on and disturb this bird,
only to walk into a raven sitting on the next headland, honking and croaking at
us.
Worms Head
now came into view ahead of us and the last half mile dropped down into a dip
and then climbed up and out onto a huge grassy headland which led us to the
cliff edge and the tip of the Gower Peninsular. We stopped for photos and chats
with passers-by and then walked over to the coast watch station and spent a few
minutes talking to the two lady watch-keepers. They congratulated us on our
bright shirts, ‘easier to see you’. We signed their visitors book and moved on
up to Rhossili village and a coffee and cake stop. The café provided a splendid
view of Rhossili beach and the afternoon ahead.
The
afternoon session began with a scenic high-level path that contoured along the
hillside parallel to the beach. Eventually we arrived at sea level and headed
back into the dunes and sand. We avoided
some of this by taking to the beach but, at Spaniard Rocks, we had to clamber
up onto the rocky foreshore and then steeply up more big dunes. A brief drop to
cross behind Broughton Bay was just a prelude to the last climb of the day up yet
another dune where the magnificent spectacle of Whiteford Burrows opened out. The
descent to the burrows was through some woodland but this led us out onto a
flat grassy nature reserve where we found what the interpretive board told us was an oil beetle. As usual the route took to the beach and we had a
very long tramp, two miles or so, to Whiteford Point and its cast iron
lighthouse. We rounded the point at the high water level and turned east and
south east looking for a waymarked route back round the woods. In the end we
just headed into the dunes and soon picked up a trod that led us to where we
needed to be, a waymarked trod to the east of a long line of plantations.
Eventually this came out onto a track which led us to a three way signpost with
the coast path signed in all three directions. We took the long loop towards
Llanmadoc church where we enquired of the whereabouts of our b&b. This
turned out to be half a mile back towards the pub and could probably have been
reached by a more direct route. However, one of the footpaths had been closed
and diversion signs were taking us towards our overnight accommodation,
attractively near the pub. Our host provided tea and cake and gave us a warm
reception.
Port Eynon
dep. 08.52, Llanmadoc arr. 16.40, GPS 19.07 miles in 7hr 21m 28s walking time
plus a 30 min break at Worms Head and another 30 minutes in the café at
Rhossili.
We
overnighted at Tallizmand b&b in Llanmadoc and ate at the Britannia Inn
just down the road. Steak and Gower Ale
Pie was followed by bread and butter pudding. The Gower Gold (4.5%) was like
meeting an old friend. I also tasted the HPA (4.0%) from the Wye Valley Brewery
in Stoke Lacy.
Friday 23rd September 2016 Llanmadoc - Llanelli
Marshes and Estuary
We had a
problem in persuading our host to provide an 8am breakfast. We had a train to
catch and needed an earlier start than their normal breakfast time would
provide, But he relented and with great humour cooked us a lovely fry-up and
saw us on our way. It was raining as we ventured outside and waterproofs where
worn for the first hour or so. The way-markers took us along the road into
Cheriton and then back to the edge of the marshes. This seemed a long way round
but, in view of the footpath closure and diversion, it seemed sensible to do as
we were told.
The
overnight rain had made the path along the marsh rather muddy and slippery.
This was not improved by the fact that sheep also used this fringe path and had
churned it up quite badly. The initial section was along vast salt marsh, the
flatness of landscapes a contrast to our days in dunes and on cliff tops. After
the village of Llandimore, the route left the marsh and took to fields and
woodland. Then at Llanrhidian, we were on a narrow road, always with the
marshland to our left. There was evidence that high tides can flood this road
and the coast track that circles around Crofty village. Suddenly the marshes
were finished and we were on a busy main road to Pen-clywdd, the only point of
interest being the wide flowers planted in the verge. The village provide us
with a coffee shop and a short rest.
The sun was
now shining brightly and it was turning into a warm afternoon. The exit from
Pen-clywdd was on pavement and then a pleasant cycle track that wandered below
the busy road. We followed this to it conclusion which was well past the point
on the map where the official route goes right over some farm land. We had seen
no signs for this rather strange detour so we ignored it and continued down the
road into Gowerton. We had always assumed the it was ‘de regueur’ for a coast
path to follow the nearest suitable path to the sea. This formula would have
established a definitive route as the signed North Gower Cycle Route and then taking
in a path to the left which cut a corner off the road route. There would be no
way of avoiding a dangerous short section of busy rat-runs that took us off the
Gower and up to the railway and main road. A path beside the A484 took us
through another area where the local council had planted wildflowers, a
wonderful sight for sore eyes (or was it feet). Loughor Castle stood to our
right on a very step mound. I could not resist shinning up it and slipping down
the steep grass on the other side to the road bridge. Phil who had stayed on
the path got lost in a housing estate and failed to appear for some time.
The signed
route took us through a much larger housing estate on the other side of the
river. This aimed at a car park and a walkway that crossed the main road via a
footbridge. The last six miles or so were along a tarmac cycle path which wound
its way round sewerage works, wetland centres and golf courses before pulling
round a rather ghastly housing development which we had seen from the other
side of the estuary. This had been built on reclaimed industrial land and the streets bore names
like ‘Copperhouse Road’. There was a point on the Llanelli peripheral road
where we were at the nearest point to the station, We took photos of our end
point for the year and turned right to find the station and somewhere to eat.
We found the station but little else. The town looked totally rundown with
cafes and pubs closed and in some cases boarded up. I went back for some fish
and chips and we sat overlooking some derelict land and changed our shoes ready
for the trip home. The station was shut up and there were no toilets on the
platform. I cannot recommend Llanelli as the perfect end to a long walk.
Llanmadoc dep.
08.50, Llanelli arr.16.00, Llanelli Station arr. 16.20, GPS 21.31 miles in 6hrs
54m 40s walking time with a stop in Café Cariad in Pen-clywdd (12.00 – 12.25).
.
Aftermath
We caught
the 17.26 Arriva Wales train back to Cheshire. This two coach unit stopped
everywhere and seemed to take us on a tour round South Wales and through two years
of our walking history. We feasted our eyes on the female flesh travelling into
Cardiff for a Friday night out and then fell into conversation with a lady from
Surrey who was travelling to Ludlow to spend the weekend with her mother.
Eventually we came into Wilmslow and it seemed a long walk to reach my wife waiting in the station car park.
Thus ended
the second part of our ten-year project to walk round the Welsh coast (twelve
years if we manage Offa’s Dyke to complete the circumnavigation). The Gower is
behind us and some it, especially Worms Head, will remain a wonderful memory.
If we had one surprise, it was the sand dunes. We had not expected so much
loose sand and such huge dunes to have to climb. Let’s hope we have emptied our
shoes for the last time this year.
