Tuesday 7th March 2017 Thames Barrier – Tower Bridge
Starting with a Bomb Scare
My wife had
booked to spend a week with her cousins in Toronto. March is not my favourite
time of the Canadian year so I sought a national trail that I could walk during
the latter part of a considerably warmer English winter. What better than a
trek through the centre of London. So straight from delivering Jill to the
airport, ‘do we have to be so early?’ I grabbed my carefully prepared rucksack
and hurried down to the railway station. A lunchtime train to London should
enable me to walk the first 10-mile section of the Thames Path in daylight.
All went
well to Euston and then on the tube to Bank. It was a short walk to Cannon
Street where, as I crossed the concourse to the ticket office, a public
announcement was being made. Being short of time to buy my train ticket, I
hurried into the ticket office planning to catch up with announcements later.
When I emerged, I enquired about what was happening. The station had just been
closed. A bomb scare at London Bridge Station had completed halted trains to
the south east. I had the choice of sitting it out until the train services
recommenced or looking for an alternative way of getting to the Thames Barrier.
Hating inaction, I retraced my steps to Bank and negotiated the use of the newly
acquired ticket on the DLR. The Lewisham-bound train was perfect for getting to
Cutty Sark in Greenwich. Here some friendly bus crews put me on to the right
bus and, rather later than planned, I was dropped off at the end of a road
signed to the Thames Barrier Industrial Estate.
It was a
most inauspicious start. The industrial estate was busy with dusty dirty
construction vehicles and it was a relief to emerge onto the banks of the river
where a patch of greenery surrounded the Thames Barrier and its visitor centre.
This was closed so there was no opportunity for a café stop. But time was now
of the essence so I hurried back towards London. The first mile of so was
pretty horrific, passing waste management and building sites. Diversions from
the signed route were the norm and navigation would have been difficult if I
had not been following one of the biggest rivers in the country. As I got back
to Greenwich, the sun was low in the sky. After passing Cutty Sark for the
second time in the day, the route cut inland once more, this time through residential
areas. I had to keep my concentration to stay on the official route. The signs
kept pointing back to the water front only to keep cutting back to the road
after a few yards. I ended up in the reception area of an hotel trying to force
a route down the riverbank. I gave up the riverfront excursions and stayed on
the road that ran parallel. As it went dark, this led to a fabulous section
through the narrow passages of
Rotherhithe. All this was new to me: I have
never been through Rotherhithe and I thoroughly enjoyed the atmospheric narrow
streets in the growing darkness. Suddenly I rounded the last bend in the river
and the city of London opened up before me. This view of Tower Bridge, lit up
in the night sky, with the brightly lit skyscrapers behind, provided one of the
great moments of the whole walk.
There were
many people on the bridge and it was difficult weaving through the crowds of
tourists and commuters. On the far side I descended a flight of the steps and
emerged onto the cobbles that used to be carpeted to take the London Marathon runners
passed the Tower. Soon I was searching for my hotel which confusingly was not
accessed from the street which its address it bears.
Woolwich
Road/ Westmoor Street Bus Stop, dep. 15.20, Thames Barrier, dep. 15.30, Tower
Bridge, arr. 19.04 GPS 11.67 miles in 3hr
35m 00s
I stayed at
the Hub by Premier Inn around the corner from Great Tower Street. There was a Weatherspoon’s,
the Liberty Bounds, along the street so, rather later than I would have liked, I
ate fish and chips and researched the beers of a new microbrewery, Sambrook’s of
Battersea. I tried pints of Junction (4.5%) and Wandle (3.8%).
Wednesday 8th March 2017 Tower Bridge - Richmond
The South Bank Show
It had the
audacity to rain this morning. I had to try out my new walking umbrella far
earlier than I expected. It was a little too breezy for the umbrella as I re-crossed
Tower Bridge to pick up the national trail. At least the poor weather kept the
tourists away and I strode out along the south bank passed HMS Belfast. Then
came the steps up to London Bridge. I thought there was no uphill on this
route. The trail left the riverside and continued down Clink Street and round
to Southwark Cathedral, another fist for my collection of the cathedrals of
England. I was completely taken by surprise to
come out of the cathedral and
virtually fall over the Golden Hinde in is secluded dry-dock. I had forgotten
all about this piece of medieval England but I was aware of the next, the Globe
Theatre, which I still have not been to. Another target for the year? The Tate
Modern I knew from my power station days. And then it was the concrete jungle
of the South Bank. Some people like this, I know, but I consider the only
advantage of being there is that one can turn ones back on it and look across
to the wonderful skyline of the city on the other side of the river.
In Lambeth
there was one of several diversions around riverside construction projects. The
longest of these took me passed the Battersea Dogs Home in a long loop to get
round the newly developing power station. It was a relief to squeeze passed the
queues of wagons and into Battersea Park. I cut across the centre of the park
passing the zoo and heading diagonally for Albert Bridge. The riverside was
regained for a short while, but after Wandsworth Bridge, the diversions stared
once more. One of these took me over the River Wandle. That explains the name
of last night’s beer! At last I came to Putney Bridge and a few yards passed
here, London and its paved streets came to an end. In front was a dirt track,
green fields and a tree lined embankment.
But first I
had lunch to attend to. In a tiny park with a kiddies play area was Loo Loo’s,
a wooden hut and homely café. A croque monsieur went down so quickly that I had
to reinforce it with a piece of carrot cake. Who was Loo Loo, I asked. ‘My
mother’, said the woman attending to my needs. ‘Why Loo Loo’. ‘Because the kids
playing on the swings came in here to go to the loo so that’s what they called
her’. Reinvigorated for the afternoon, I strode onto the Boat Race course and
for the next four miles or so relived all those years of watching the event on
television. The banks were line with rowing club houses and the river was
filled with their members. The race itself was only a few weeks away. The race
route seemed a long way when you are walking. The finish is at a scruffy part
of the river, Chiswick Bridge being far from the prettiest of the day. One can
see precious little of Kew Gardens from the riverbank and not much of Richmond
Deer Park. The noise from the jets on-route for a landing at Heathrow was
tiresome and I was quite glad when the great loop of the river was completed
and I could see Richmond Bridge ahead. Just before the bridge I cut up Water
Lane and after a short search, traced my hotel for the night. It had been a
short but fascinating day.
Tower Bridge
dep. 09.00, Richmond arr. 15.45 GPS 19.08 miles in 6hrs 07m 11s moving plus
a 30 minute café stop at Loo Loo’s near Putney (12.30-13.00)..
I stayed at
the Travelodge in Richmond, had a pint of Young’s London Gold (4.00%) at the
White Cross before dining at the Old Ship. Here I ate duck comfit and
discovered a very good ale from Twickenham Brewery, Grandstand (3.8%).
Thursday 9th March 2017 Richmond – Staines
Ferry Across the Thames
This was the
first time I tried walking, voluntarily that is, without a breakfast. I refused
what was on offer at the Travelodge and gave myself the choice of finding
somewhere locally or to get a few miles under my belt before stopping for a
breakfast. I chose to make a start and to stop at the first suitable café en route.
So I returned to the river down Water Lane and turned back to the task in hand.
A gentle
start through some parkland led out onto the riverbank with views of the pubs
of Twickenham on the far shore. I quickly came round the corner to Teddington
lock and the end of the tidal Thames. From now on rainfall and weirs would
control the river levels, not time and tide. It was no distance from there to
Kingston Bridge where the path crosses over to the other bank. No cafes were apparent
close to the river so I pressed on, round an everlasting bend with flat meadows
to the
right. Outside Hampton Court, I asked a Dutch couple to take a photo of
me in front of the gates then I returned to civilisation at Hampton Court
Bridge where I returned once again to the south bank and into café country. I
had a choice of coffee houses and immediately tried a likely looking candidate
and here ate my very late breakfast, a very welcome bacon butty. This of course
turned out to be inadequate. The display of cakes on the counter was too much
for my iron discipline. I even had a second coffee.
For the next
few miles I was conscious of residential areas away to the left. In some places
these spilt down to the river. Walton really is on the Thames. After Walton
Bridge a long straight track ran along a canal that cut through a loop in the
river. Where this re-joined the main river, a few steps led down to a land
stage and a bell. Like an Alice in Wonderland scene, it said ‘ring me’. So I
did and a ferryman brought a boat across the river and took me over to
Shepperton. Road walking dominated the next section but a few field sections
provided some variation. Beyond Chertsey the footpath ran beside the road for a
mile of so under the M3 and into Laleham. From thence it was an easy few
minutes round the next bend and into the outskirts of Staines. The route left
the river at the railway bridge but then cut back to the waterside through a small
park containing the London Stone. Here ended the day’s walk and I cut into the
town to find yet another Travelodge.
Richmond dep.
08.49, Staines arr. 16.20, GPS 20.50 miles in 6hrs 42m 40s walking time plus a bacon
butty and coffee at the Five at the Bridge Café at East Molesey (11.38-12.25).
Once again I could not resist one of their cakes as well.
My hotel was the Travelodge in Staines. I ate at the George,
a Weatherspoon’s, where I had lamb shank and pints of HBB (3.7%) from Hogs Back
near Farnham and Incredible Pale Ale (5.0%) from Reunion Brewery in Twickenham.
The latter was superb if a little strong.
Friday 10th March 2017 Staines – Marlow
A Two Stop Day
For the one
big day of the walk, the last thing one should do is make a navigation mistake.
There are not many mistakes one can make when walking up the Thames. So imagine
my chagrin when I found I had stepped out of the hotel and set off up the wrong
side of the river. So I had over half a mile on my GPS before I returned to
Marlow Bridge and shuffled shamefully across.
After a
short break, I was much revived and hurried on along the north side of the
Thames, the side that had cost me dear at the start of the day. In the meadows
opposite the race course there was a lovely old church, St Mary Magdalene, in a
tranquil setting lying back from the river. I spent a few moments of
contemplation in the totally silent sanctum and then emerged into the sunshine
to continue the rest of my life, or at least the bit up to the next teashop. I
quickly came up to the rowing centre at Dorney and the locks at Monkey Island.
Here I chatted briefly with a man from the Environment Agency who told me where
the famous restaurant was to be found in Bray village on the opposite bank of
the river. A bit early for a posh meal! Then it was on round the next bend and
back into suburbia, Maidenhead was imminent.
And so was
another coffee break. I at been advised by several people this morning about
Jenner’s. I had been told that it was right en route and that I could not miss
it on my way out of town. And sure enough, there across this busy road, sitting
within a small park, was a large wooden hut and a coffee sign. After paying
London prices for the last few days it was lovely to get coffee & cake for
£3.00, so I relaxed briefly and briefly and watched the world by in this busy
little café. But not relaxing for long! Soon I was off again up the road to
Boulter’s Lock and back onto the riverside path. A lovely couple of miles up
the tree-lined river ended with a left turn inland and a road section through
Cookham village. The route remains on the right bank until Bourne End railway
bridge which carries the trail on a footbridge across the river onto the
northern side. Then a bare and barren three miles of muddy fields, led under
the by-pass and into the lovely town of Marlow. The official route weaves and
winds its way through passages and back entries before exiting the churchyard, almost
at the doorway of my hotel. My long day was at an end.
Staines dep.
08.12, Marlow arr. 16.25, GPS 23.30 miles in 7hrs 30m 36s walking time plus a
brie & bacon panini at Costas in Windsor (11.05-11.25) and tea and carrot
cake at Jenner’s in Maidenhead (13.45-14.05).
The Premier
Inn in Marlow was right on-route. I had a couple of pints in the Ship, both
from Rebellion Brewery in Marlow, IPA (3.7%) and an excellent Roast Nuts
(4.6%). I then went along to the Tiger Garden Indian Restaurant and ordered
duck jalfrezi and the pre-requisite pint of Cobra.
Saturday 11th March 2017 Marlow - Tilehurst
Breakfast in Henley
I was
beginning to enjoy the late rising that breakfast-free hotels could offer. I
could lie in, then crawl out of bed, pack my bags and slip out of the hotel in
record-speed time. The only problem would be getting to the first café en-route
in time for breakfast, Today the next town would be 8.5 miles up-river, a tidy
walk on an empty stomach. I stepped out of the hotel right onto the path,
crossed the road and was off before 9.00am on a cloudy morning. I slowly wound
up the pace on a peaceful section to Hurley lock, arriving before the tea-hut
had opened. The caravans and mobile homes to my life were quiet with an
out-of-season feel. The route then broke out into open fields and a deer park
near Culham Court. Rounding a huge bend in the river, I arrived at Temple
Island as the first of the Saturday morning rowers pounded downstream. The
riverside path was then busy with coaches and trainers riding along on their bicycles
shouting instructions and encouragement to the crews out on the water. A race
between two eights hurtled passed, one crew in national colours. Their speed
was breath-taking. I got some advice on Henley coffee shops from one such coach
and then hurried on towards my breakfast. As I crossed the bridge, I could see
a likely looking café on the Henley water-front. Never has a bacon sandwich
been so welcome.
Marlow dep.
08.41, Tilehurst Station arr. 16.20. GPS 21.36 miles
in 7hrs 01m 48s walking time with a stop at the Chocolate Café in Henley (11.30
– 12.03).
Aftermath
Once on the
train, I was back in Reading in just a few minutes. I shuffled through the
shopping street looking for somewhere for a quick meal and a pint. And I found
the perfect place. A town centre hotel, the George, had a bistro bar, the
Dickens Bar, which served cheap and cheerful food but no hand-pumped beer. So I
took to the default position of fish and chips and bottled beer. Here this was
London Pride (4.7%), so welcome that I had two. For entertainment I watched the
closing stages of England’s demolition job on the Scotland rugby team. Back at
the station, the trains home worked perfectly. I did not even have to change
platform at Birmingham. So by soon 9.40pm I was in Macclesfield and prepared
for the last mile of the week.
So I had
walked half the Thames Path. The weather had been kind: in fact it was
remarkably warm at times and I could not really call this a winter walk. Spring
had come early. I was wise doing this path out of season. I can imagine that
parts of this route would be very busy later in the year and I was told that
accommodation becomes hard to find in the summer. So it may be autumn or next
spring before I get round to finishing off this national trail. Five more days
should get me up to the source of the Thames, and I shall look forward to it.
It is a pleasant and varied route.
