Pennine Bridleway (Part 1)

Cromford - Summit    29^th October – 1^st November 2018

Introduction

The winter is on its way. Storm Callum has taken out one of our trees at home and the first cold snap has left its mark on the garden. Could I squeeze one more walk in before the dark nights? There was just a window of opportunity in the week after the clocks had gone back so I went for the Pennine Bridleway, a local and easily accessible national trail which I knew very little about.  Publications on the route are sparse. The website offers limited practical information and a guidebook for the southern section is out-of-print. I got hold of a second-hand copy, booked some accommodation and set off into the dark in more ways than one.

Monday 29^th October 2018               Cromford - Hurdlow

Inclined to the High Peak

It had been a very cold weekend but Monday dawned dry and settled so I turned down an offer of a lift and walked down to the bus station to catch the early bus to Buxton. I had time for a bacon bap & coffee before I went in search of the Transpeak bus which leaves from the railway station. The trip through Derbyshire was long but it was interesting to watch the locals gravitating towards the market towns of Bakewell and Matlock.  At last, with half the morning gone, I dismounted at Cromford and set off straight away up the steep hill to Steeple Grange. Here I gained the High Peak Trail and crossed the light railway to reach the National Stone Centre at Wirksworth. If I was cold when I started, I certainly warmed up on the Middleton Incline, my climb to the start of the National Trail.

At Middleton Top, I asked a passing couple to take my photograph in front of the National Trail notice board. Lydia kindly did the business and recorded the great moment. Then I set off along the High Peak Trail, relatively flat for much of today’s route. I got into a rhythm of around 17 min per mile pace and tried to keep this up for as long as possible. A cold wind was blowing across the bleak White Peak. I had to don my jacket whenever the sun went behind a cloud. I saw a few cyclists but no one on foot until I was almost at Friden. A runner wearing a Burnley FC shirt was jogging towards me. He was scheduled to reach Derby by evening on his way to the Olympic Stadium in London. His aim is to run to every Burnley away match this season. I wished him luck and we went our opposite ways.

At Friden, I sat on a bench briefly to eat an energy bar and drink my water. 2½ miles later, at Parsley Hay, I found the coffee bar still open so I had a second break, this time for cappuccino and cake. Another 2½ miles brought me to the car park at Hurdlow. My accommodation was yards away from the trail and I was glad to make the pub with daylight to spare.

Cromford dep. 10.55, Hurdlow arr. 16.26

GPS 15.60 miles in 4hrs 56mins 12secs walking time plus 15 mins at Friden (14.20-14.35) and 15 mins at Parsley Hay (15.25-15.40).

I stayed in bunkhouse accommodation at the Royal Oak at Hurdlow. I had a four-bunk room to myself: the room was warm and clean, the toilets and shower room were modern, clean and warm and I had a superb night’s sleep. In the bar, I ordered a plate of belly pork with a pint of Sir Philip (4.2%) from Wincle Brewery. I then moved on to Bakewell tart & custard and Touch of Frost (4.4%) from Storm Brewery

Tuesday 30^th October 2018           Hurdlow – Hayfield

Heading North and South

No breakfast was on offer this morning, unless I was willing to wait until 10am which is no use to man nor beast when you have to walk over 20 miles and arrive in daylight. So I had nothing to lose by getting up, packing my bag and setting off early. The ground was wet with early morning drizzle but this stopped as I slipped out of a sleeping pub and onto the High Peak Trail. This came to an end in two miles and the route turned right, across the main road, heading for Chelmorton. I had initially wanted to overnight at the Church Inn in Chelmorton but they no longer provide accommodation. Thus the Royal Oak bunk house is now the only on-route accommodation for the first 35 miles of the national trail.

Skirting round the village, the route crossed the next ridge and then took me over the A6 and into the vertiginously-sided Chee Dale. A slippery grass track weaved through the limestone cliffs down to Blackwell Mill where the cycle hire centre sold me a coffee and scone. I crossed the river via a narrow stone bridge towards the picturesque cottages on the north bank. A steep path zig-zagged up the other side of the dale through a farm and out onto a tarmacked road that ran beside extensive quarry workings. Eventually I reached the quiet hamlet of Wormhill the exit from which is along a delightful walled path leading down into Monk’s Dale.

The Pennine Bridleway does not follow the line of these limestone dales. It oscillates from side to side along walled tracks on the high plateau. My phone went just as I was facing a long line of cows being driven home for milking. I was able to chat with my daughter for a few minutes as they slowing mooched passed. I was looking forward to some refreshments at the pub at Peak Forest, only a few miles ahead. But when I reached the village, the pub was closed and I had no alternative but to move on into a cold drizzle. In Perry Dale, I sat on a stile in the rain and ate another energy bar. At least it was not too far to a coffee shop even though it was up a steep hill.

So I continued along Perry Dale, over the road and onto the lower slopes of Rushup Edge. Rushop Hall was prominent up a very steep stretch of tarmac. My disappointment was intense when I saw the ‘café closed’ sign across the entrance. Never have I walked so far (nearly 2 days) to reach a tea shop. And now it was shut. Rather despondently I climbed upwards to the main road and saw for the first time the impressive ridge of South Head. The track contoured across the hillside making straight for the hill until the lovely flat walking was interrupted by Roych Clough. Here the route lost some of the hard gained height and dropped roughly into a steep sided re-entrant. The climb up the far side, coming as it did at the end of a very long day, seemed interminable. Eventually I pulled out onto open moor at the foot of South Head and traversed easily round its base and passed Mount Famine. The town of Hayfield was laid out below me and I had an easy descent into my destination.

Hurdlow dep. 08.35, Hayfield  arr. 16.30 

GPS 22.95 miles in 7hrs 32mins 10secs walking with 15 mins in Chee Dale for a coffee & scone and 10 mins in Perry Dale for an energy bar and water.

I stayed at Millie’s B&B, Church Street, Hayfield. There was a selection of good pubs but the Royal won the choice as it was virtually next door. Fish, chips and mushy pies filled a very empty stomach. This was followed by Bakewell tart & custard for the second consecutive evening. The beer was Hobgoblin Gold (4.4%) from Wychwood.

Wednesday 31^st October 2018          Hayfield – Diggle

A Gap in the Trail

Even though Millie’s café does not open on Wednesday, the owner got up early to make me breakfast. So, reinforced in the face of another long day, I stepped onto the Sett Valley trail in cold but bright conditions: an invigorating start. I rang home to report that I was still alive and then turned off the trail and up a steeply cobbled track between stone cottages. The climbing continued right onto the moor where Lantern Pike rose to the left. Beyond the Pike, the route crossed flat and rather featureless grazing land with, for almost the first time on the trip, no distinct path to follow. Cown Edge now dominated the view ahead.

Before embarking on this walk, I had read of the various issues in getting a bridleway for horses and bikes around Glossop and across the Longendale Valley. Horse riders were certainly unhappy with the lack of off-road options and with the heavy traffic passing through the valley. In the Sue Viccars guidebook, a walker’s alternative is mapped out between Cown Edge on the south side and Lees Hill some 5 miles to the north. The current version of the ordnance survey 1:50000 map shows a slightly more direct option for the walker which by-passes Cown Edge altogether. From the road end near Plainstead’s Farm, I continued across the next field and over the Monk’s Road and then took a grassy right of way that descended passed a plantation. Glorious views of the Longendale Valley opened out to the right. The path then dropped steeply on a narrow trod down the side of Horse Clough into the Glossop suburb of Simmondley. The clue to finding the way out of this built up area was in the name ‘Green Lane’. This ran through a housing estate and became a bridleway at its end. Almost immediately I came to a notice announcing the next phase in the Pennine Bridleway development, the Gamesley sidings section. Obviously someone else is thinking on the same lines. I now found myself on the Trans Pennine Trail. I quickly re-joined the Sue Viccars walker’s route and marched beside the railway into Broadbottom. A garden centre was advertising their café but I found a lovely little arts & crafts centre, Lymefield, where the ladies cleared a table for me and cut me a wonderful piece of carrot cake.

Suitably refreshed, I climbed through the village and turned onto the Valley Way. This I followed to Hollinworth, noticing for the first time Pennine Bridleway route signs for the walkers’ interim alternative. Two very busy roads had to be crossed. Vast amounts of heavy traffic, travelling between Manchester and Sheffield, seemed to be passing through Hollinworth at that moment. It was a relief to leave all this commotion behind and to gain a delightful path through open beech woodland that slowly climbed back onto the moors. A wooden footbridge had been damaged by a fallen tree and I had the choice of a stepping across the stream on a greasy pole or crawling under the fallen branches. My wet and dirty knees indicated my choice. Soon however I was under Lees Hill where I re-joined the official national trail. I have no idea how the gap in the route for horse riders is going to be resolved.

It was all very straightforward from here. Tracks and tarmac lanes wound round reservoirs and dropped into Brushes Country Park and then up a stony track contouring high above Stalybridge and Mossley before descending into Greenfield. Here an old railway line took me passed Uppermill without offering a glimpse of the town centre and, in the gathering gloaming, I eventually found myself above the village of Diggle where I could descent a narrow lane to my pub accommodation.

Hayfield dep. 08.55, Diggle arr.16.55

GPS 21.50 in 7hrs 24mins 16secs walking time with a 20min break in Broadbottom (11.40-12.00) and a 15 mins break near Brushes Country Park for an energy bar.

I stayed in the Gate Inn, Huddersfield Road, Diggle, where I had a warm welcome and a lovely room.. I had a cheese and onion pie with mash & beans followed by apple tart and ice cream. The beer was Dizzy Blonde (3.8%) from Robinsons and Black Sheep Bitter (4.4%).

Thursday 1^st November 2018           Diggle – Summit

Reaching the Summit

The landlady was up and waiting to cook breakfast at 8am. So I got an early start and slipped out of the back door of the pub and into a damp day with clag on the hillsides. But as I strode back up the road and onto the route proper, the mist cleared and blue sky was revealed. By the time I had scrambled up to Standedge, my jacket was off and I was sweating. The first climb proved to be the only significant one of the morning. The next few miles were on wide  tracks, some stony, some tarmacked. The national trail zig-zagged between a series of reservoirs, through remote and magnificent countryside, looking splendid in the morning sunshine. I saw no one for hours and was getting quite used to this loneliness as I came up to the Ripponden Road. There I was transfixed. Like a man in a desert staring at an oasis, I stood awestruck by the sign board beside the path, ‘coffee shop and deli’. I recovered enough to enter the Rams Head and make myself at home on a cosy settee in the café.

Refreshed by a scone and cappuccino, I had a spring in my step as I descended to Piethorne Reservoir and then under the M62 motorway. The continuous flow of heavy traffic seemed incongruous in this vast and empty landscape. I was soon on the road beside Hollinworth Lake and it was fortuitous that I had had the earlier café break because there was no sign of any civilisation on the east side of the lake. I turned rather disappointedly back onto the moors passing the cottages and deserted farm at Syke.

The going was relatively flat from hereon in with just a few short climbs to remind you not to enjoy yourself too much. The route eventually came along a farm track at Higher Chelburn Reservoir. The diversion round the farm was the sting in the tail of a great day’s walk. The farm itself was an animal sanctuary, not just the usual donkeys and horses but reptiles (including snakes) as well. The view from Leach Hill was worth all the effort and the tiny village of Summit appeared in the valley below. I quickly dropped down to the river, crossed the canal and main road and shinned up the other side to gain the signpost on the Mary Towneley Loop. Having duly touched all the prerequisite way-markers, my journey for the week was over and I returned to the main road and the bus stop. The Mary Towneley Loop will have to await another day.

Diggle dep. 08.53, Summit arr. 14.50

GPS 16.62 miles in 5hrs 36mins 16secs walking time plus 20 min break for cappuccino and scone in the coffee shop/deli at the Rams Head on A672 above Denshaw.

Conclusion

A series of fortuitous timings got me home in record time. I reached the bus stop in Summit just five minutes before an hourly service was due. At Littleborough I jumped straight off the bus and onto a late-running train that raced into Manchester Victoria. My walk across the city was not too onerous and at Piccadilly Station an express was just about to leave. Within 90 mins of reaching Summit, I was in the streets of Macclesfield and heading for my normal Thursday night drinking den. A few texts alerted my usual drinking companions and they quickly joined me for a pint of Weightless (4.2%) from Red Willow. Then I was treated to a lift home. I had a lovely home-coming. Dinner was awaiting me and I was thrilled to see Jill. I was on a high for several days. The four-day jaunt at a goodly pace in cool dry weather suited me perfectly. The next section of this national trail is already in the planning.

Offa's Dyke (Part 2)

Welshpool - Chepstow    29^th August – 3^rd September 2018

Introduction

Back in 2006, Mike and I had squeezed in a few extra days walking by taking the train to Prestatyn and following Offa’s Dyke Path down to Buttington Bridge and Welshpool. Since then we have been tied up with our epic End-to-End walk which we completed last year. So, with more time on our hands, we could revisit the national trail which we had started 11 years ago. We booked train tickets to Welshpool and went back to the marches in more ways than one.

 

Wednesday 29^th August 2018           Welshpool - Mellington

Digging Beacon Ring

The unreliability of our local train company persuaded us to use the Wilmslow line to get to Crewe and Shrewsbury. Jill took us to Wilmslow Station to start our journey. A long connection at Shrewsbury gave us an opportunity for a late breakfast. We were in Welshpool by 10.50am and we set off straight away along the canal to Buttington Bridge. A light drizzle caused us to briefly raise our umbrellas, a strange event in this driest of dry summers. Crossing the parched farmland on the east bank of the Severn, the weather improved and it was hot work plodding up to the top of Beacon Ring and its iron-age monument.

The path contoured around the earth works to where an archaeological dig was underway. An  archaeologist suggested that we continue our circumnavigation to view a trench has been dug through the outer ramparts. We spent time that we could ill afford, considering our late start, talking to two more of the archaeologists and finding out how the dating of the site is being investigated. Then we set off again downhill on woodland tracks to the village of Kingswood. The route bypassed the village centre and halfway along we sat in a field and ate our lunches.

The last section of the day was almost a straight line though farmland and field systems, continually crossing and re-crossing the Welsh-English border. The town of Montgomery looked enticingly close by, tucked into the hillside to our right. But we had further to go, onwards passed Brompton Hall and Mellington Hall. After the holiday park, a gate led left across a rough pasture and onto a lane into the hamlet of Mellington. The last house, as always, was our b&b for the night.

Welshpool dep. 10.50, Mellington arr. 17.30  

GPS 16.20 miles in 6hrs 33mins 24secs walking time plus 15 mins at Kingswood for our lunch.

 

We stayed at Shirley Heights in Mellington. Sheila made us a wonderful meal of beef bourguignon, cheese & biscuits and some cans on Old Speckled Hen.

 

Thursday 30^th August 2018          Mellington – Dolley Green
Offa’s Roller Coaster

It was going to be a long day so we asked for an early breakfast. By 7.30am we were tucking into a ‘full Welsh’, and we were on our way soon after 8.30am. We first had to retrace our steps along the lane and across the field to get back on-route. Then the climbing started. As we slogged to the top of the first hill we picked up the line of the dyke and walked in the fields to one side. The sky was clear, there was no wind and we began to sweat, alarmingly for so early in the day. On reaching the top we caught our first glimpse of the rolling hills ahead.

Steep descents followed steep climbs for the rest of the morning. Under cloudless skies and with magnificent views we traversed this roller coaster of hills. We ticked off the valleys one by one, the Unk, Churchtown, Hergan, Clun and then the massive grind up to Springhill Farm where we had a short break for some food and water. Then thankfully there was an easier section involving a gentle decent, passed sheep and sheepdogs, to Garbett Hall before the last blast up Cwm-sanaham Hill and the glorious descent into Knighton. The first building we came to was the Offa’s Dyke Centre complete with café. We were thankful for a coffee and cake after a very strenuous day. But it was not over yet!

I rang ahead to warn our overnight accommodation that we were running late. It was after 4pm before we embarked on the last leg of the day. This began with a climb up through some woods onto a plateau of farmland and open moors. It was so much easier walking that we got into a good rhythm and in no time at all, it seemed, we were strolling down the lane into Dolley Green. What a magnificent day’s walking.

Mellington dep. 08.37, Dolley Green arr. 18.30 

GPS 20.68 miles in 9hrs 11mins 17secs walking with 10 mins rest near Springhill Farm and 25 mins (15.40-16.05) in the Offa’s Dyke Centre in Knighton.

We stayed with Thea and Barry at Rose Villa in Dolley Green. Our accommodation was a cabin in their beautiful garden. House and garden were surrounded by logs just like a Swiss villa, thus belying Thea’s origins. We ate in the kitchen ‘en famille’, with Thea producing wonderful food from her wood-burning range. The conversation flowed but we finally stumbled back to our cabin and a well-earned sleep.

 

Friday 31^st August 2018        Dolley Green – Hay-on-Wye

Another early start. 7.30am saw us reconvening around the kitchen table. Mike was not allowed to refuse the sausages, sourced as they were from a local farm shop. The main problem was getting away, such was the level and intensity of the conversation. With full stomachs and ringing ears, we set off down the road on a gloriously sunny morning. The initial section followed closely the line of the dyke, up and down hills to Evenjobb and beyond. There was a huge climb up Rushock Hill where the dyke wound its way around the steep contours. The long descent to Kington zig-zagged its way across sheep-grazed grassland which eventually brought us to a golf course and down into the lovely town centre. The cafes were full of the lunching golden oldies so we bought sandwiches in a supermarket and sat on a bench for our lunch break.

The route out of Kington was a gradual climb up a straight lane which became a straight track which became a straight grassy path along a high ridge of hills. On the highest point was a plantation of monkey-puzzle trees, a rather incongruous sight. The views into mid-Wales were spectacular in this sunny weather. The easy walking ended in a steep stony path down to Gladestry where the pub was firmly closed. Another series of hills were crossed before we found ourselves on another grassy path descending to Newchurch. As we sat eating our snacks, a young woman stomped up the steep slope towards us. She introduced herself as Laura Bentley; she was coming to the end of a circumnavigation of Wales, having completed the coast path in 10 weeks and was returning to Chester up Offa's Dyke. She was collecting for the Alzheimer’s Society. I promised to send a donation.

After the climb beyond the village, things became much easier. Lanes and stony tracks led us down into the Wye Valley and the final descent was on a lovely woodland path through Bettws Dingle. The very busy main road was an unpleasant interlude before we turned down to the river through massive fields busy with combine harvesters. The last mile was on a quiet section of river bank which took us to the road bridge into Hay-on-Wye. The accommodation, we had been told was just passed the town clock and so we soon were ensconced in the outhouse bedroom.

Dolley Green dep. 09.00, Hay-on-Wye arr.19.15

 

GPS 24.41 in 9hrs 47mins 58secs walking time with a 20min break in Kington (13.00-13.20) and 25 mins near Newchurch (16.00-16.25).

We stayed in Belmont House, Belmont Road, Hay on Wye. We ate at the Blue Boy, steak and kidney pie and apple and rhubarb crumble & custard. The beer was Landlord (4.3%) from Timothy Taylor’s.

 

Saturday 1^st September 2018           Hay on Wye – Pandy

Traversing the Black Mountains

This promised to be our easiest day so we had a leisurely breakfast and a wander round town before heading for the Black Mountains. A local shop cut us some sandwiches and we stocked up on jam doughnuts. The ascent to Hay Bluff began gently enough across low-lying farmland, parched in the morning sunshine. The path got gradually steeper, crossing tracks and lanes as it climbed. Suddenly we broke out onto high moorland with the ridge of Hay Bluff dominating the foreground. The route of the national train turned left just before the Bluff and ascended on a slanting path which gained the main plateau about half a mile beyond the top of the Bluff. Here we stood for a while talking to a lone walker from Co Down who had come up from Llanthony Priory. Then we started our long traverse of the mountain.

In these benign conditions, the crossing was a walk in the park. In fact all the boggy areas had been over-laid with stone flags similar to parts of the Pennine Way. And it was almost pan flat with imperceptible rises to the occasional cairn or trig point. At the first of these (pt. 610) we sat on the base of the trip to eat our sandwiches and doughnuts. At the second of these, Mike made the mistake of putting his walking stick down whilst he took a photograph. It was another 15 minutes before he remembered that he had left it there. I lay in the sun with the rucksacks whilst he ran back to retrieve it. We were encountering increasing numbers of groups walking towards us, doing the trail south to north. Several of these were Americans. One quartet warned us off jokes about their president, declaring that they were ‘Trumpers’.

The descent was gradual at first and then steeply down to a lane from which we could see the back of the house where we were due to stay. But access from the rear had not been negotiated so we had to trapes for over a mile round the lanes to gain the front entrance and then back up the very impressive tree-lined driveway. It was a great shame that the present state of the house does to reflect the magnificence to the approach.

Hay on Wye dep. 09.10, Pandy arr. 17.15

GPS 17.24 miles in 7hrs 16mins 10secs walking time plus a 20 min break at first trig point (13.00-13.20) and 30 mins for recovering a lost walking stick.

We stayed at Brynhonddu B&B near Pandy and walked the mile or so to the Old Pandy Inn for a meal of fish and chips and sticky toffee pudding. The beers were HPA (4.0%) and Butty Bach (4.5%) both from Wye Valley Brewery.

Sunday 2^nd September 2018             Pandy – Redbrook

The Whiter of Three Castles

Harp music welcomed us down to breakfast and accompanied us through our bacon and eggs. Suitable soothed we slipped out of the b&b just after 9am and set off once more down the long drive. It did not seem quite so long in the light of day and we were soon back on route over the train-line and across the main road at the Lancaster Arms which is now no longer a pub. An early up and over took us to the lovely village Llangattock where an American walker, from Boston,  told us that he did not know any ‘Trumpers’ and could not imaging Trumpers over here walking a national trail. A lone girl walker stopped to warn us of cornfields ahead. Little did we know what waited us.

Just after leaving Caggle Street, we started the long slog up to the White Castle. Here we had our first break and asked an Israeli couple to take a photograph of the two of us. Leaving the castle we soon met our first indication of trouble ahead, a footpath closure sign but with no alternatives indicated. We decided to press on through the closure notices and found ourselves in a massive field of corn, at least 10ft high, planted right across the footpath. Careful navigation took us under some electricity lines being worked upon, probably the reason for the closure in the first place. But the farmer had quickly taken the opportunity to plough up the path and plant his precious corn. We battled on through the jungle, eventually coming out onto a quite country lane. A diversion was marked at this end. Obviously north-to-south walkers were not catered
 

We needed another rest so we sat in a cider orchard and ate our snacks before setting off on an easier section of the day passed the holiday homes at Hendre and through the quiet woodland tracks of Kings Wood. This led us directly into the outskirts of Monmouth, and very posh outskirts they were. The River Monnow was crossed on a magnificent old bridge which acted as one of the town gates. The town of Monmouth looked lovely in the evening sunshine and it was tempting to stop for the night. We succumbed to a quick pint at the Punch House, sitting outside in Agincourt Square. Then we pressed on. A few extra miles tonight would make the last day so much less stress

We had not realised what climb awaited us. We toiled up this ‘sting in the tail’ but the view from the top, Kymin, was worth it. All of Monmouth and our day’s walk was laid out before us. Kymin is where Lord Nelson used to entertain Lady Hamilton and there is a naval monument nearby to 16 British admirals. The descent was long and gentle and all was well until Mike remembered he had left his stick on the bench at Kymin. So back he went and did the descent a second time. Meanwhile I pushed on to tell our landlady what was happening and I had time for a shower and change of clothes before Mike arrived, having persuaded a local lady to show him where our b&b was situated.

Pandy dep. 09.10,  Redbrook arr.18.50

GPS 21.83 miles in 8hrs 49mins 53secs walking time plus 10min stop at the White Castle and 30 mins (17.00-17.30) for a pint of Silver King (4.3%, Ossett Brewery) in the Punch House in Monmouth.

We stayed at Tresco b&b in Redbrook and ate at the Bell Inn. We were rather late getting in but they were most welcoming and cooked us a lovely meal of steak burgers and chips washed down by Golden Rule (4.0%) from Bespoke Brewing Co in Mitcheldean.

Monday 3^rd September 2018            Redbrook – Chepstow
Steep and Lofty Cliffs

Our last day. A train to catch so an early start was a necessity. Mike had strolled ahead to get his sandwich from the Post Office and, by the time I came along, we were ready for the first big climb of the day. But first of all we had to find it. Then a lady dog walker called us over and indicated a hidden set of steps that led onto the steep hillside.  Once we were up, the walking was splendid, through wooded paths and stepping over tree roots on top of the dyke. The descent to Bigsweir was long and gradual and we made good time through the woods and down the road to the old bridge. We did not cross it but instead turned left and south and repeated the climb and descent cycle.

We had not budgeted for the viciousness of the climb out of Bigsweir. It got steeper and steeper until we reached a set of wooden steps that took us into a complex of lanes and sunken paths before dropping into a very prosperous looking valley. We crossed this valley well above Brockweir and flogged up what turned out to be our last major climb. We were then in dense woodland all the way, rarely gaining any glimpse of the Wye Valley below. This added to the impact of arriving at the Devil’s Pulpit where the magnificent view over Tintern Abbey and the river opened up below. We sat eating our lunch and admiring the view. Two American ladies shared our picnic spot and we chatted away for far too long. Eventually, after receiving an invitation from Julie to visit her and do some walking in Virginia, we moved on and into the coda of our trip.

After another two miles of forest trails we were suddenly aware of a change in the character of the land in front of us. Suddenly, there in the distance was the sea, or at least the Severn Estuary with its road bridges and Oldbury Power Station.  The ridge dropped gradually away. A busy road had to be negotiated before we entered much tamer farmland and footpaths. A short section along the cliffs at Wintour’s Leap took us into estates and parkland on the edge of Chepstow. We detoured round the housing estates of Sedbury and then crossed the peninsular along the last section of Offa’s wondrous dyke. We did not expect an uphill finish but that was the only way of reaching the finish stone, perched on the cliffs above the Severn. A German couple had finished ten minutes before us and did the honours for our final photoshoot, Mike and me sitting together at the end of our long adventure.

Redbrook dep. 08.50,  Sedbury Cliff 15.50

GPS 14.97 miles in 6hrs 30mins walking time plus 30 mins at the Devil’s Pulpit

Exit Strategy 

We climbed over the fence to stand a few seconds on the very edge of Sedbury Cliff and admire the views over the Severn Estuary. Then we climbed back again and return down the path to the road and then turned along the pavement through Sedbury village and down the steps to the A48. The road bridge led us into Chepstow town centre where we had a coffee and a bite to eat. We still had time for a quick pint (Proper Job 4.5% from Sharp’s) in the Beaufort Hotel before we walked round to the station and caught our train to Birmingham. We missed the connection at New Street and arrived home some 45 minutes late but Jill was there as ever and we were whisked back to our house and a very well-earned sleep. In total we had walked 117 miles and I had another national trail under my belt.

 

 

  

 

Glyndwr's Way (Part 1)

Knighton – Machynlleth   4 – 8^th June 2018

Monday 4^th June 2018          Knighton – Felindre

Late in Clocking On

I was due to travel with Northern Rail but, such have been the concerns about cancellations and the devastating effect that would have on my walking schedule, I asked Jill to take me over to Wilmslow Station and the more reliable Virgin service to Crewe. Here I had time for a coffee and bacon bap before climbing into the single coach that was the Heart of Wales service to Swansea. This was a lovely journey through rural Cheshire and Shropshire before turning onto a single track line through the border hills to Knighton. I walked up to the clock tower and took some photos, then popped into the Clock Tower Café for a cappuccino and carrot cake.

So it was 11.30am before I set off up the ‘Narrows’ and out onto Glyndwr’s Way. Some narrow and steep ginnels took me through the outskirts of the town and up onto a high corniche. This contoured through some woods around Garth Hill before reaching a series of lanes and farm tracks that led over the hills and down to Llangunllo. The sun had broken through and it was getting rather hot. Little did I think that I had five days of sunshine ahead of me. It was a long trek up lanes to the station where the route passed under this morning’s railway line and started a long gradually climb up onto Beacon Hill Common.

The walking from here across the Short Ditch and the moor was magnificent. I overtook a party of Canadians and was into a fast rhythm, perhaps rather too fast as I missed a route marker and ended up too far to the east, descending into a farm whose track took me to Beguildy, about two miles up the road from my target. A small shop made me a ‘coffee to go’ and I completed this two mile section of busy road whilst supping my hot drink. So I probably clocked an extra mile or more in reaching Felindre and my accommodation for the night. I learnt my lesson in the need to concentrate and I corrected all future navigational mistakes much more quickly.

Knighton dep. 10.58, Felindre arr. 17.40  

GPS 18.34 miles in 6hrs 24mins 32secs walking time. I stopped for 25 minutes in Knighton (11.05-11.30).

I stayed at Brandy House Farm in a camping pod.  I dined with two women on a horse riding holiday and one lady walker with a lame dog. The meal started with various pates and was followed by chicken casserole. A crumble completed a splendid meal. A couple of bottles of Old Speckled Hen dealt with my dehydration issues.

Tuesday 5^th June 2018          Felindre - Abbeycwmhir

Tilting at Windmills

I has not found it easy to get to sleep in my camping pod but then slept so well that it was five minutes to breakfast when I came round. I had to leap off my mattress, throw on some clothes and dash down to the breakfast room. It was not to be a long day so I had lots of time to pack my rucksack afterwards before setting off. By 9.30am, I was descending the farm drive into the village and along the main road. I saw the Canadian party being dropped off in front of me and I followed them down the road and walked with them up the first climb of the day. At the top we said our farewells and I pressed on along a grassy ridge which eventually brought me to a tarmac lane. Here I lost all the hard earned height as the lane dropped down to a cross road of tracks.

A left turn took me to the foot of a second big climb. At half height three women on horseback sat waiting for me to open and close a gate for them. Then the route continued upwards round a wind farm and traversed undulating hillsides of gorse scrubland which must have been very boggy in wet weather. The section ended in gaining the high point and a fingerpost which pointed down a lane that descended gently at first and then steeply down to Llanbadarn. The shop was off route and the pub was closed so I walked onwards alongside a very busy road beside a river and then crossed the river on a side lane and started to climb yet again. It was really getting hot now so I sat at the top stile to have a bite to eat and to drain my water bottle.

The next section was glorious walking, along a grassy ridge and then down by some pine trees and ancient looking dykes and earthworks. A steep descent led to Tynypant where the climbing started all over again, this time up a narrow wooded ridge, tree-lined at first but opening out onto a ridge with magnificent views all around. My destination lay below in a narrow valley down to the right. To reach this valley, the route dropped down to a col between two peaks and turned sharply downhill through thick woodland and dappled sunlight. It was a walk into Paradise as I worked my way along lanes and woodland paths along this remote valley into Abbeycwmhir. Here I quickly found my b&b and was glad of a cup of tea and a cool shower before joining my hosts, Angela and Michael in their beautiful back garden. A magnificent day’s walking.

Felindre dep. 09.40, Abbeycwmhir arr. 16.05 

GPS 16.32 miles in 6hrs 13mins 06secs walking with 15 mins rest (13.15-13.00) above Llanbadarn.

I stayed with Angela and Michael Winterton at the Oaks in Abbeycwmhir, a lovely b&b where I was treated like one of the family. I pigged myself on two sorts of flan and drank some of their Boddingtons beer.

Wednesday 6^th June 2018     Abbeycwmhir – Llanidloes

Cafes and Pubs at Last

As I sat in the conservatory having my breakfast, the hills were shrouded in a light mist which lent a mysterious atmosphere to the valley. But this cloud soon burnt off in the warming morning sun and it was to be another swelteringly hot day. I got the line wrong in the very first field in leaving the village but soon recovered to find a lovely woodland path that led over a small footbridge and steeply up to a lane. Here the map and the signs differed. A finger post pointed up the lane and the map showed the route in fields to the left. I cut up a farm track to try to get back on line, only to find barriers across the line of stiles. So I retreated back to the foot of the Esgair Farm entrance and here found the diversion signs that had been missing from the other end. All this uncertainty did not cost much time and I was soon climbing strongly into the emerging sunshine. A lovely traverse of Upper Esgair Hill ended in a steep drop into the hamlet of Bwlch-y-sarnau.

Angela, my host of last night, had recommended that I should avoid a bit of very boggy ground if I now diverted, on purpose this time, along a road to the west for 500m and then up a forest trail to Waun Marteg. A long section of tarmac led to a lovely contouring track along the edge of a forest passing several deserted farms on its passage. I stopped briefly for a bite and a drink at a stile with a view, then continued on this roller coaster of a contour until a left-hand turn led very steeply down a stony and slippery track into a limestone gorge. Here there was a sharp left turn along a very boggy path that led over a stream to a field gate where all route signage disappeared. I was left at the foot of a huge sloping pasture with no idea which way to head. The map indicated a slanting line so I started up steep grass looking for breaks in the top hedge and fence line. I was not far off with my guess and a few yards along the fence there was a stile into a leafy track. This ascended to a lane and more tarmac and then a steep descent down a rough grassy field where I lost all that precious height again.

A rather arbitrary finger post indicated a left turn which was hard to spot but then the line became clear as I contoured round several properties. There was a rather complex loop round a large farm that obviously did not welcome a national trail but, more by good luck than judgment, I found the bypass and came out opposite a gorgeous little cottage, with shutters, climbing plants and a beautiful garden. Yet more roads led me to Newchapel where the route took a definite turn towards home. Just when the concentration on navigation started to wane, I completely lost the route in the next wood, ended up having to climb belatedly and steeply back to the road that would take me gradually downhill to Llanidloes. I soon found myself in a lovely old town with cafes and pubs and ancient buildings. I was back in civilisation after three days in the wilderness. I celebrated with cappuccino and spicy apple cake in the Great Oak Café.

Abbeycwmhir dep. 09.20, Llanidloes arr. 15.40

GPS 16.25 in 6hrs 04mins 12secs walking time with a 20min break near Cyndfa.

I stayed in the Unicorn Hotel in Llanidloes and I ate at the Angel. I was starving so I started with duck pate, had a main course of lamb curry and finished with lemon sponge and custard. All this was washed down by copious amounts of Butty Bach from Wye Valley Brewery (4.5%).

Thursday 7^th June 2018        Llanidloes – Y Star Inn, Dylife

The Welsh Lake District

This was supposed to be an easy day, not exactly a rest day but the next best thing. So after breakfast I sauntered round Llanidloes in the morning sunshine and, before I set out for the day’s walk, managed another coffee and cake in the Great Oak Café. Rather late for me, I strode across the river bridge and up the road on the other side. There was a delightful path climbing into the woods, Allt Goch. I am not sure I got the standard route up to the golf course but I picked up the waymarks at the club house. I nearly missed the left turn off the entrance road but soon corrected any navigation discrepancies and dropped down some very steep grassy fields to the hamlet of Van. I continued along the tarmac farm track towards Garth then turned right and uphill until I met another diversion around an unwelcoming property. Halfway round I started with a nose bleed which persisted whilst I walked up a very busy main road. At last I came to a gate which led into a field and I lay down until the bleeding had subsided.

A field path ran parallel to the road for half a mile until a tarmac farm lane took me a further half mile to a diversion round the farm itself. Here I got my first view of the great dam at Llyn Clywedog. A steep track descended to its base and the atmospheric ruins of an old lead mine. The climb up the other side was on hot and shade-less tarmac, on traffic-free roads that led to a car park with few cars and a café that appeared permanently closed. A murderously steep grassy bank took the route back onto roads. The next section had a diversion due to a landslip. So at least half a mile was added to the day’s total. At the top of the next field I sat at the stile and had a very brief break for water and a flapjack. Then the way markers pointed away from the lake and towards a distant forest. The top of the forest was also the top of the ridge and the route descended on open pasture down towards a deserted farm.

Crossing a stream on a road bridge, I was then turned right into another forest through which I climbed steadily up to the same road. The road continued down passed some bunkhouses and an acid balancing mechanism on the next stream. Then there was a pleasant section across farmland to Llwynygog where I had to scramble up a steep bank to get on-route for the final hill of the day. A track led across the dry plateau until the view of Dylife and the pub opened up below. A short but steep track wound down the hillside to the road almost opposite the entrance to Y Star Inn, my home for the night.

Llanidroes dep. 10.20,  Y Star Inn arr. 16.20

GPS 15.17 miles in 5hrs 45mins 35secs walking time plus a 10 min () break in

I stayed at Y Star Inn at Dylife. There was no real ale on tap so I resorted to bottles of  Felinfoel double dragon and Cwrw. I ate fish and chips followed by a sponge pudding and custard.

Friday 8^th June 2018             Y Star Inn – Machynlleth

Another Clock Tower

The earliest time for breakfast was 8am so the dining room was full of walkers and fishermen all straining at the leash. I came through the chaotic service quite well and was through the front door and away by 9am. It was cloudy for the first time in over a week and this made it cool for the climb back up to the top of the ridge to pick up the national trail. I made good time along the top on relatively flat and stony tracks and pathways. After two miles or so, the path led down into a gully to cross the headwaters of Afon Clywedog. A steep and slatey scramble up the other side took me past some newish looking buildings and then over a moor to Glaslyn, a high remote and rather featureless mountain lake.

As I crossed the plateau, the trig point of Foel Fadian beckoned. And it was so near the path that I was up and down in just over 10 minutes, with my first and only peak of the week in the bag. Then came a long and steep descent on slippery slate and loose stones. Stopping briefly to check the navigation, I eventually stepped onto easier and grassier ground and thence into the valley. A gratuitously steep loop kept me off road for a short while but eventually the tarmac was inevitable. I toiled up a steep lane and then a steeper farm track as the day got warmer and stickier. The cloud covered had increase the humidity level and I was sweating more than I had done all week. On the top of Cefn Modfedd, I made a classical error of missing a way-marker and it was several minutes before I realised my mistake, got the compass out and corrected my error. Soon I was on top of the ridge and stopped briefly for a bite to eat and to finish my water bottle.

At Talbontdrain two little boys asked whether I wanted any water and I was delighted to hand over my empty water bottle for filling. Then there was a gruelling climb in the heat of midday up a curving path to Rhiw Goch. It was well worth it because the next 2 miles were on wonderful high ground which finished in a right-hand turn, a steep descent and a poorly marked path up to a recently cleared forest. Another fast section then led down and left out onto the final moor overlooking Machynlleth. But rather than dropping straight down into town, the official route went out on a long loop to the west and it seemed an age before I eventually hit the road and then the steep and narrow path down to the outskirts of Machynlleth. The signs led me through a car park and kiddies play area before passing the Heritage Centre and its café. I could not resist a quick carrot cake and cappuccino before continuing passed the second clock tower of my trip and on to the station. I just had time to change out of my sweaty walking gear and then it was time for the train home.

Y Star Inn dep. 09.00, Machynlleth Station arr.15.45

GPS 17.70 miles in 6hrs 23mins 55secs walking time and had a 10min stop near Talbontdrain and 15 mins (15.20-15.35) in the café at the Heritage Centre in Machynlleth.

Half a train was waiting for me at Machynlleth Station and this set off on time when a rear section arrived and had been attached. I had time for another coffee on Shrewsbury Station before the Manchester train came in and took me to Wilmslow where Jill was waiting to pick me up. It is nearly always the case that the closeness of the experience leads to the last walk being perceived as the best, so I hesitate before claiming that the last five days walking have been some of the most sustainably enjoyable and beautiful, on wonderful grassy hills with everlastingly lovely views. But I am sure that the spectacular weather had a part to play on my thinking that this is the some of the best quality walking of all the national trails.

Speyside Way

Buckie – Newtonmore   4 – 8^th April 2018

Wednesday 4^th April 2018    Buckie – Fochabers

The Mouth of a Great River

It was surely too early to be going this far north. A blizzard was raging on the hills between Stirling and Perth and the world was a total whiteout. I should have cancelled, I thought. But I needed the miles in my legs and, as we were spending Easter with my daughter’s family in Scotland, one of the Scottish National Trails seemed appropriate.  I had left Ayr before 7am on a train to Glasgow. The rain had set in as I trailed over to Queen Street and the Aberdeen train. But lo and behold, it was better in Dundee and dry in Aberdeen and Elgin. As I waited in the icy cold for the bus to Buckie, it was clear. The bus dropped me in East Church Street and, as it was now nearly 3pm, I set off straight away. I found the new start to the Speyside Way, two stones each side of a path. There was no way-marking in the streets so I dropped down to Buckpool by the shortest route and got to the original terminus and the start of the waymarked route.

After travelling for so long, it was good to be striding out into the cold wind with the sea lashing the shore on my right. I walked between the road and the sea on grass and pebbly tracks that ran behind the houses. At Portgordon, the waves were spilling over onto the promenade and I had to cross the road and then turn sharply inland to gain the old railway that had run along the Moray Coast. It was lovely and grassy underfoot until I reached woodland where a narrow trod led through to Spey Bay. Here is situated the Scottish Dolphin Centre on a point overlooking the mouth of the river. Just passed the ice houses, at the shoreline, I picked up a track beside the river that took me five miles up to Fochabers. Underfoot conditions were mixed, generally good walking but with some wet and waterlogged sections. And it was not raining or snowing. Just after the old bridge, the route swung inland to bypass the far side of the town and here I cut back in the main square and my hotel.

Buckie dep. 14.51, Fochabers arr. 18.10  

GPS 11.08 miles in 3hrs 20mins 52secs.

I stayed in the Gordon Arms Hotel, High Street, Fochabers. I had turkey and ham pie and chips followed by treacle sponge and custard. I was introduced to Windswept Blonde (4%) from the Lossiemouth brewery.

 

Thursday 5^th April 2018       Fochabers - Aberlour

Boats or Bridges

An 8am breakfast got me out and walking by just after 9am. It was a bright but bitter morning. High cloud and the promise of patchy sunshine. I reversed my last night’s route into town and continue on the footpath around the southern extremities of the town. This led out onto a very quiet lane that I was to follow for almost 5 miles. I broke the monotony of tarmac by taking a loop into woodland at the Earth Pillars to take in the spectacular view of a bend in the river from high on a cliff. Then it was a long plod along the road to Boat o’Brig. From there I initially turned onto the riverside track before looking more carefully at the map. The official Way climbed up the hillside and then joined a wide farm track to a shooting range. Red flags were flying, red lights were flashing and the sound of gun shots echoed all around. A sign assured me that if I stuck to the waymarked route, I was not in danger but it was hard not to crouch and run through the site.

As I gained height on the forest tracks, I was in several centimetres of snow and I was confined to walking in a deep rut made by a vehicle. I was above the snowline for several miles but gradually the track descended back to a lane at Arndilly and a magnificent house set in a wooded estate. Soon I entered Craigellachie where the original ferry boat had been replaced by a Thomas Telford bridge, one of the first across to Spey. A new bridge now takes the busy main road across the river. The old railway started from here and its track is now the next section of the Speyside Way which goes through cuttings and a tunnel along to Aberlour where a museum to the path is situated in the old station buildings. I first located my b&b, had a quick shower, and went along to the museum where the staff stayed late to allow me a viewing of some historic film of the operational railway. Then it was time for more serious issues, beer and food. 

Fochabers dep. 09.04, Aberlour arr. 15.00 

GPS 16.80 miles in 5hrs 57mins 36secs.

I stayed at Norlaggin B&B, High Street, Aberlour. Rose, my host, made a reservation for me at the Mash Tun where I tried the venison stroganoff with wild rice. A lovely dessert followed, pear crumble and custard. I found another beer from Lossiemouth, APA (5%).

 

Friday 6^th April 2018            Aberlour – Cromdale

Whisky Galore

This was a day of two halves, a morning along the old railway track and an afternoon scrambling over agricultural land. The grassy track ran alongside the river up to Carron Bridge where it crosses the river. I followed the road into Carron village and turned left to the large and new distillery. At Tamdhu Station there was much activity at a kayaking centre and more distilleries. Passing stacks of whisky barrels at Knockando, the railway continued round some long bends before the river swung south on a long reach to Blacksboat and Ballindalloch. I had made good progress completing the first 10 miles of the day in little over 3 hours. Little did I know that this rate of progress was not going to continue.

The afternoon section began calmly enough with another mile and a half down the railway line. But then the character of the walking changed significantly. The way-markers took me left straight up the river bank and through light woodland to come out on a wet and rough grassy plateau. The route crosses the field between wire fences which restrict the path to a marshy passage along which a line of huge stones have been laid like giant stepping stones across the mire. The crossing ends with a squeeze stile where two metal and chain wicket gates are pulled apart. I was to see many of these before the day was done. The farmland was a mess, ankle deep mud around the gates and a slippery rutted drive. This led out onto the A95, a road with fast-moving lorries and lunatic car drivers overtaking at high speeds. After ten minutes beside this racetrack, I had not seen any way-markers for the expected left-hand turn. I was at the bottom of the drive up to Airdbeg and a woman was walking down towards me. So I approach her for some help and she indicated that I should have been in the next field but kindly showed me how to get back on route.

A steep climb through the woods brought me onto a wide forest track, completed covered with snow and ice. I followed this to its highest point before coming to a figure post pointing down to the right and then plunging down the hillside through a forest fire-break. More mud awaited me in the valley bottom where a waterlogged track led to a narrow footbridge across a raging stream. Steps, field paths and endless squeeze stiles led up to the Woods of Knockfrink where a beautiful track contoured round the hill and descended towards more farmland. I met two ladies who were walking this section of the Speyside Way as an out-and-back from the layby near Airdbeg.

The next part of the route departed significantly from the line on the map.  The way-markers took the route left and high into the forest then down from the highest point alongside the forest boundary. The rough pasture at the bottom was another wet section crossed by another set of giant stepping stones. The squeeze stiles were countless and led between narrow spaced fences across farmland to a muddy farm track, and then left beside this farm track in a long and tiresome circumnavigation of the farm. After what seemed an age of scrambling on a narrow and rocky trod between fences and walls, we descended beside a stream to the line marked on map and in guidebook. It was a relief to cross the tarmac lane and climb into the woods. I still had time for a navigation error. A post at the top of a steep climb indicated a right turn and it took a few minutes to realise that this could not be correct so I returned to the misleading post and went straight on, back onto route.  A long and undulating tramp on a track coated in pine needles led me thought a large wood and down to the main road. Rather dispiritingly, I was turned away from Cromdale but this was necessary to gain access to the old railway which I had not seen for some hours, and had sorely missed. The grassy track was very welcome for the last two miles into the village. The hotel was to my left and the only problem I now had to solve was how to get through the football field and up to it. It had been a real battle since leaving Ballindalloch, the last 12 miles taking almost 5 hours. Thank goodness the hotel had real ale.

Aberlour dep. 09.02, Cromdale arr. 16.57

GPS 22.32 in 7hrs 55mins 08secs.

I stayed in the Haugh Hotel in Cromdale where I ate steak and kidney pie and chips, and then syrup sponge and custard. Windswept Blonde (4%) was the house real ale.

Saturday 7^th April 2018        Cromdale – Aviemore

Serendipity or Fate
 

The first 3½ miles, through a forest of Caledonian Pines, was the highlight of the whole trip. After finding my way back across the football pitch and onto the old railway, the route crossed the river and entered this delightful forest. Dog walkers abounded and the place was full of life and light. The day had a good promise to it. At the entrance to Grantown-on-Spey, the Way turned left and bypassed the town. Speybridge is a lovely old bridge at the far end of town and led me once again to the A95 near a smokehouse. Here the line of the old railway is picked up and it was the most attractive of sections, grassy and tree-lined. I was making excellent progress again with this easy walking and I was soon bouncing into Nethy Bridge when I was brought to a standstill by a vision, that of a lovely coffee shop. After 60 miles of walking, this was the first midday café on-route.

The carrot cake was magnificent and I was beginning to find the strength to continue when my text messenger sounded. My great friends Gillian and Walter were skiing nearby in the Cairngorms and wanted to join them for a meal that very evening. As I resumed my walk, my phone rang and arrangements were made for a pick up from my motel in Aviemore. All I had to do is finish my day’s walk and be showered and changed. I tramped on with renewed enthusiasm and good flat tracks through woods and beside roads into Boat of Garten. Then on easy cycle routes for the final 6 miles into Aviemore, so easy in fact that I missed a right-hand turn and did an extra mile.

 
The official route entered Aviemore on the orbital path which dropped me on the road about a mile north of the town centre. All the coffee shops had closed by this time so I went straight to my motel at the far end of town, showered and changed and went for a pint.

Cromdale dep. 09.10,  Aviemore arr. 17.00

GPS 22.84 miles in 7hrs 21mins 23secs walking time plus a 35 min (11.15 – 11.50) break in the Nethy Café at Nethy Bridge.

I stayed at High Range Motel, Grampian Road, Aviemore. I had a quick pint of Fyne Jarl (3.8%) in the Old Bridge Inn. Gillian picked me up and drove me to their hotel, the Muckrach at Dulnain Bridge, where we have a wonderful meal, starting with haggis bon-bons and steak & ale pie. The beer was Cairngorm Gold (4.5%) and the wine was Malbec.

Post-script:  When I was picked up, United were 2-0 down in the evening kick-off and City had started their championship celebrations. A text from home during the meal alerted me to happenings back in Manchester and the evening ended on very high note.

Sunday 8^th April 2018           Aviemore – Newtownmore

The Wolf of Badenoch

No breakfast was included in my night’s stay at the motel so I was able to pack my bags carefully and get away without any pressure. I was right on-route and was out of Aviemore as soon as I turned onto the road south. A wide pavement kept me away from the traffic and a left-hand turn at the water works was clearly signed. A track led under the mainline railway and onto a beautifully smooth walkway of cycle standard. This I followed for two hours of so to Kincraig, passing the gates that had caused concern to some walkers/cyclists. These were open and the direct route is not affected so I could not understand what all the fuss has been about.

At Kincraig, I was in need of some breakfast but a village centre looked non-existent so I turned left on a lane and joined the Badenoch Way. After a mile or so, I came to a water sport centre and there, wonder of wonders, was a café/restaurant which made me a bacon bap. So rather later than usual I was fortified by food and got into a good stride along the road passed Insh House and up into the forest. The Badenoch Way signs were not as easy to follow as the Speyside Way posts that bore the Scottish National Trail logo. The route initially followed some power lines then climbed steeply on a track before a wet and slippery trod descended through the trees on a curving line down again to the lane. And at the exact moment tarmac was reached there was a right of way sign taking me left on a gently undulating path through various settlements before emerging onto open moorland.

Back into the trees, I came quickly into Drumguish and Tromsie Bridge where I was directed down the fields alongside the river until the path took to a ridge line to the left. This eventually came out at the lookout platform above the Insh Marshes, a great birdwatching area. From then on, it was tarmac all the way passing the Ruthven Barracks, an imposing ruin on top of a roadside hill. A shinty match was being played as I passed the Dell, the home of Kingussie, the local team. I turned onto the main road at Kingussie and followed the pavement and cycle paths into Newtonmore where the Speyside Way will eventually terminate. Even thought it was deep into a Sunday afternoon, the Tuckshop Café was still open so I made up for a lack of food with lots of coffee and scones. I then continued to the station where I terminated my own 5-day walk. Then I returned to the town for a meal before boarding the train south.

Aviemore dep. 09.00, Newtonmore Station arr.17.30

GPS 19.79 miles in 7hrs 15mins 32secs walking time and had a 20min stop at the Loch Insh water sport centre (11.40-12.00) and a further hour (16.15-17.15) in the Tuckshop in Newtonmore.

I ate in the Glen Hotel, fish, chips and peas then cherry Bakewell sponge. The beers were Orkney Corncrake (4.1%) and Backlash (4.2%) from Stewart Brewery in Perth. My journey home went the plan, a train to Perth, a bus replacement to Glasgow, a Megabus through the night to Manchester and first train to Macclesfield where Jill picked me up from the station on Monday morning. My decision not to cancel was a good one.