26th- 30th March 2023
Introduction
Last year, as part of the 50th anniversary celebrations of the
Long-Distance Walkers Association (LDWA), the South Manchester Group walked a 50-mile
section of the Peak District Boundary Walk (PDBW). Starting in Bollington,
several of the group followed the route for three days around the boundary of
the national park finishing in Old Glossop. Ever since, I have been pining to
continue what we had started with a view to completing the entire 190 miles of
the trail. Through the dark winter months, I kept fit with weekly day walks so
that I was ready for the spring walking season. At last, the clocks were put
forward and a window of dry weather appeared. On the very first day of summer
time, I begged a lift to the station for an early train the Manchester and
onwards to Glossop. By 11.30am, I was emerging from the station and heading up Norfolk
Street towards the old town and the Bulls Head pub where last year’s trek had terminated.
Sunday 26th March 2023 Old Glossop - Diggle
Pots and Pans
The promised dry weather manifested
itself as I set out from the Bulls Head into the Derbyshire countryside. A
rising field path, grassy but muddy in parts, led over a ridge, crossed a busy
road and descended passed a tree-lined graveyard into Padfield. A young couple ran
passed, following a guidebook of a different round. I proceeded more slowly
over the Longdendale Trail and down to the reservoirs. On the wall of the dam,
I asked a young woman to take my photograph with Bottoms Reservoir and Bleaklow
in the background. The steep climb up the north bank and into Tintwistle led to
another Bulls Head. Leaving the village via Arnfield Lane, the sunlit ridge of Lees
Hill opened up ahead.
From Arnfield farm it was quite a
pull up and over moorland paths. A track led between the Swineshaw Reservoirs
and then climbed yet again to a magnificent viewpoint overlooking Mossley. An awkward
stony descent led out onto a narrow lane that descended to a new housing
estate. This was circumnavigated round to a path contouring below Buckton
Castle, an ancient fortification from the 12th century. Pausing for
a brief conversation with a local couple who were able to identify the football
ground and other features of Mossley, I then walked on to find a quiet spot for
a late lunch. On the single-track lane to Fern Lee Farm, four girls in a car,
hopelessly lost, asked me for directions. The last I saw of them was turning in a farmyard and heading back the way they
had come. As I approached Dove Stone Reservoir, a heavy shower of rain passed through,
giving cause for waterproofs; not what I really wanted at the start of the last
climb of the day.
The path from Hollins Lane, as indicated
in the guidebook, appeared to have been closed. An obvious detour, not marked
as a right of way, had a PDBW green marker disc so I assume this is now the
official route. What came next was cruel. A steep grassy track led up Alderman’s
Hill, the end of which is an outcrop of rocks known by locals as Pots and Pans.
A stone obelisk war memorial overlooked Greenfield and its valley. The correct
line beyond the obelisk was not immediately obvious and I was briefly heading
down towards the Isle of Skye road before I corrected back to the northwest
edge. Slipping and sliding down the steep path to Pobgreen, the route followed
lanes below Running Hill Head. A featureless set of fields proved difficult to
navigate and I was glad of my digital maps to find the best line across to
Diggle. My accommodation for the night was 0.3 miles off route and it was
nearly 7pm before I arrived. My landlady suggested that I should get to the pub
as soon as possible because they finished cooking early on a Sunday so I
dropped my rucksack and continued the short distance down to the Diggle Hotel.
Old Glossop dep. 11.35, Diggle arr.
18.50
GPS 16.22 miles in 7hr 03mins 10 secs
walking time with a 15-minute break near the obelisk.
Stayed at the Sunfield
Accommodation in Diggle, a lovely b&b in the oldest part of the village. I
ate just down the lane in the Diggle Hotel, an old-fashioned ale house. The
kitchen was about to close so I quickly ordered suet rag pudding and chips
followed by sticky toffee pudding. The beers were Butterley (3.8%) for Ossett
Brewery and Landlord (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor. I was joined for the meal by
Robert and Lucy-Jean from Oxford, a couple walking the Pennine Way and staying
at the hotel.
Monday 27th March 2023 Diggle – Holme - Holmbridge
No Food on Mondays
It was duck eggs for breakfast, thanks
to of the Indian runner ducks that trotted around the garden. Taking a
leisurely start to the day, it was 9.45am before I got my boots on and was strolling
back up to the PDBW. Rising tracks and field paths led up to Standedge and the
main road over the Pennines. Through the car park, the Pennine Way was flagged
almost the entire way over Black Moss. The final drop into Wessenden was steep
and slippery and I had to pick my way carefully down to the footbridge and then
scramble the other side. The section round the back of Wessenden Lodge and up
to the top track was not obvious and I ended in a boggy gully before shinning
straight up the hillside. There was a wonderful mile long section along the
edge of the moor with views of Marsden opening up below. On Brin Hill the route
plunged left down steep lanes and paths, emerging on a road that led into
Marsden town centre. Here was a lovely little cafe that provided a light lunch
and the energy for a long afternoon.
Back the way I had come and all
the way up to the top of Binn Moor, I felt it was a very strange addition to
the boundary walk; almost 2.5miles out and back in order to visit Marsden. The flat section alongside the Deer
Hill Conduit was a welcome relief and I got a goodly pace going around the
shooting lodge and reservoirs. In glorious sunshine, I contoured above Meltham
on a crisscross of tracks and lanes. A long climb onto Royd Edge ended at a
viewpoint over the clough below and the hills beyond. The drop into the Royd Edge
Clough was followed by a path through a shady wood and a rocky ascent up the
far bank and onto a road. This rose forever upwards to a busy trans-Pennine
road, which was crossed near the Huntsman Inn. On the devious descent into the
next valley, I came across two teenagers pushing bikes, seeking advice on the
best route up to the Huntsman. I hope my suggestion was of some help.
I pause briefly at Digley
Reservoir to take a selfie before tackling the final section of the day, a
gentle path along the waterside and then a series of small fields and squeeze
stiles. The village of Holme eventually came into view, the end of the PDBW
section for the day. There was apparently no accommodation so I had booked a
b&b in the nearest village, 1.5 miles down the road in Holmbridge. At least
it was downhill and dry and I came at last to the Pickled Pheasant, which
promised the only food in the village. I popped in to reserve a table only to
be told that there was no food on Mondays so I continued my wearisome way to
the b&b. This appeared empty but my
room number was on a slate near the front door so I let myself in, showered and
changed and came down to meet my landlady. She advised me to catch a bus and
seek food in Holmfirth, some two miles down the road. She even showed me where
the bus stopped. It had been a long warm day and I was glad to get off my feet.
Diggle dep. 09.46, Holmbridge arr. 17.50
GPS 17.41 miles in 7hrs 25mins 40secs
walking with 40 mins in Mario’s Diner in Marsden (13.00- 13.40).
I stayed in Corn Loft House, a lovely
b&b run by Trevor, a local councillor. Catching the 18.38 bus from outside
the front door, I was in Holmfirth in 10 minutes, stepping out into the
magnificent stage set from the Last of the Summer Wine. Asking a local couple
for advice, I crossed the river to the Old Bridge Inn where the food was
superb. Persian lamb tagine, with apple crumble as a dessert. The Port Nelson
(4.0%), a New Zealand Pale Ale from Small World Brewery was so nice that I
sneaked in a second. A late bus took me back to Holmbridge and the b&b
where I collapsed into a four-poster bed.
Tuesday 28th March 2023 Holmbridge
– Holme - Midhopestones
Helicopter Over Winscar
The window of dry weather had closed and dark, threatening clouds hung
over the moors. I plodded my way back up the valley to Holme and the start of
the day’s section on the PDBW. I was late leaving because my landlord, Trevor,
was more interested in chatting than cooking the breakfast. It was nearly
10.30am before I was back enroute. The poor forecast had induced me to don full
wet weather gear so I was well prepared for the rain that arrived. After an
initial drop from Holme village, the route crossed the spectacular dam of
Ramsden Reservoir, climbed a steep track beside a wood and ventured out over a wet
hillside. The next couple of miles were on wide straight tracks across dreary flat
land before a right turn into a forestry road broke the monotony It also broke
the silence as I walked towards a group of trainee foresters practising their
chain saw techniques.
It was now hammering down and I was becoming increasingly bedraggled as I
emerged onto a muddy lane searching for the path over to Harden. The guidebook
had warned that signage was minimal over this featureless ex-mining and
quarrying land. The problem was that there were too many paths rather than too
few. So, with a modicum of a sense of direction, there was no problem in
finding my way through the merk onto the busy road that ran beside Winscar
Reservoir. The flight path of a helicopter came nearer as I passed through the
car park and across the wall of the dam. The route as indicated in the PDBW
guidebook, descending from the top of the dam, was blocked by a locked gate and
a notice saying ‘no public access’. So, I continued along the access road,
passing the point where the helicopter was picking up stones for a moorland
drainage project. My entry into Dunford Bridge was down the steep road from the
west. This led straight onto the Trans-Pennine Trail where a bench was
perfectly placed for a lunch-stop.
Improvement work to the Trans-Pennine Trail was in evidence. At first the
surface was a new rubbery substance that made for fast going. This led onto a
hard dry surface for the two -mile stretch to the first bridge. At this point a
field path led south for a further mile up to the very busy Woodhead Road.
Crossing with care, forest tracks led down to Langsett Reservoir. A delightful
woodland path ran beside the water and came out on the road crossing the wall
of the dam. On the other side, a field path dropped down to the river emerging
from the overflow. This led to a lane and the final section of the day’s walk up
a steep path edged with a line of freshly planted trees. The path climbed up
and along the edge of a cliff overlooking Midhope Reservoir. On a dry day the
views would be superb but not today. I ventured down towards a track reduced to
uncrossable mud by the passage of forestry vehicles. Taking to the trees to find a dry route down, I still ended
on my back side sliding down the hillside, At the junction with Mortimer Road,
I turned off route to find my accommodation, a pub in the nearby village of Midhopestones.
I was so wet that I stripped off all my wet gear and hung it to drip dry over
the stone floor of the bar. Only then did I make my way to my room and a warm
shower.
Holmbridge dep. 09.49, Midhopestones
arr.16.00
GPS 15.08 miles in 5hrs 58mins 25secs
walking time plus 10 mins on a bench on the Trans-Pennine Trail near Dunford
Bridge.
I stayed in the Old Mustard Pot in
Midhopestones. The meal was fish, chips and mushy peas followed by sticky
toffee apple crumble and a cappuccino. The beer was Farmers Blonde (4.0%) from
Bradfield Brewery and Landlord (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor.
Wednesday 29th March 2023
Midhopestones - Ringinglow
Wyming Brook
The rains had abated, the skies had cleared and it was with a spring in
my step that I let myself out of a deserted pub and set off up Mortimer Road.
No breakfast was on offer so I was keen to get going towards an early lunch
stop. Today was potentially my longest day. I was able to make good progress on the road and out onto a
delightful field path overlooking a steep-sided valley. The edge walk continued
along a farm track and lane with joggers and dog walkers enjoyed the morning
sunshine. The entry into Bolsterstone village was passed a large
graveyard rather tastefully set out. The impressive church had a commanding
position over villages, both present and past. A steep road descended into
Ewden village but the official route took a short cut through a wood emerging
onto the road again near the river. Careful navigation was required to stay
enroute around the head of the reservoir and up the steep fields beyond. After
a rather curious loop up more fields, high ground was attained via a quarried
hill top, the exit line from which was not obvious. I eventually found the section
of road that would that lead in a convoluted manner towards my next destination,
Bradfield. The mist was down and the line across the fields was not easy to
pick out. A works hooter sounded like a foghorn, 12 noon, time for lunch, and
that increased my pace as I headed rapidly downwards out of the mist.
The path entered Higher Bradfield opposite the parish church, standing as
it does in a spectacular setting overlooking the lower village. I took the path
through the church and graveyard and down a steep wooded path to Agden Reservoir.
A quiet lane led towards Lower Bradfield but the signed path took a short cut bypassing
the café that I was seeking for my first food of the day. Finding myself on a
riverside path leading out of the village, I collapsed onto a bench and eat my
entire emergency rations. Suitably reenergised, I then turned uphill onto the
old coach road (not a marked right of way). This joined the road system at an
impressive residence built like a mediaeval castle perched high above the
valley floor. A seemingly endless climb took me through Ughill and then down a
steep road losing all that hard-gained height. Repeating the climbing process
must have clouded my navigation judgement because, after slogging up a pathless
wet field, I missed a stile in the wall and followed my digital map into a cul
de sac. I waste ten minutes scrambling over fallen trees before seeing my
folly. Then it was for ever upwards up Royds Clough, and Crawshaw Lodge. Here
the view into the Rivelin Valley opened out. All I had to do was lose all that
height again.
Crossing the busy main road, the path ran along the steam that fed the
reservoirs, emerging onto a wide forestry track the wound round the hillside above
the dams. Then the route turned into Wyming Brook and another world. The next
mile or so was my highlight of the week, a magical climb up a steep fast
flowing stream. It was hard to believe that Sheffield was so close by: I could
have been in the Canadian mountains. For twenty minutes I scrambled up a wet
and rocky path over wooden bridges and over rocky outcrops. Eventually all good
things come to an end and I gentle ascended to Redmires Road and the running
routes of my university days. From there it was much more straight forward, up
lanes and paths to Brown Edge Farm, a moment’s hesitation to find the correct
line through old quarry workings and then over the fields to Ringinglow Road. A
mile along the busy road, clinging to an inadequate grass verge, brought me to
my overnight accommodation.
Midhopestones dep. 08.53, Ringinglow
arr.17.15
GPS 19.01 miles in 8hrs 05mins 18secs
walking time with 20 mins on a bench just outside Lower Bradfield.
Stayed at the Norfolk Arms in
Ringinglow, eating chicken jalfrezi and drinking Moonshine (4.3%) from
Abbeydale.
Thursday 30th March 2023 Ringinglow – The Robin Hood Inn
I’ve Got Three Buses to Catch
A wet mist obscured the view from my room when
I opened the curtains in the morning but a watery sun was breaking through the
gloom as I checked out of the hotel. I went without breakfast as this was
expensive and time consuming on a day when I had got a bus to catch (or three).
Forsaking the opportunity of donning full rain gear, I headed straight from the
hotel door along Sheephill Lane and into the rough and rutted Houndkirk Lane.
After 1½ miles, a narrow trod led left across the open moor which in this wet
weather had become water logged and my path was a drainage channel. With boots
now sodden, I emerged onto Hathersage Road, walked along it for a few yards and
then descended into Blacka Dike. The stepping stones were under water but so
was everything else. After a long pull up to a gate onto the moors, the route turned
left and left again to contour beneath Wimble Holme Hill. Out onto the wild and
windy tops of Flask Edge, the rain drove into my face and the ground became
increasing saturated. The road walk that followed was a positive relief before
a grass track traversed the next section of moorland and the end of my high-level
morning plod.
The rain had stopped but the long descent to
Car Road was horrendously slippery, first on wet clay and lower down on the
ubiquitous mud. Car Road was more solid but with a torrent of run-off streaming
down its gorged-out channels. The woodland section in the valley was a swamp
with windblown trees across the muddy path acting as extra obstacles. A section
on tarmac up Horsleygate Lane brought me to a bridleway leading steeply down
into the village of Millthorpe: The Royal Oak pub had just opened. After an
initial problem with an end of barrel beer, I settled for a Farmers Blonde, a
pork pie and pickled onions and a bowl of mushroom soup. Much to my horror, when
I came to be on my way, the rain had started again. This time it was not going
to let up and I regretted not wearing my over-trousers. But I was wet now and
needing to keep an eye on the time. Back though the quagmire, I got frustrated
at the slow rate of progress, and to top it all, I tripped over a fallen branch
and ended up with both hands and knees caked in mud. It was a pleasure to reach
dry ground even though this was a mile-long path back up to the moors. A
stretch of downhill road enabled me to increase my speed of travel.
From the very busy main road, my final
moorland crossing started from a gate on a crossroads. I was disappointed that
the wet and treacherous path did not provide easy walking. Thankfully I had
time in hand before my rendezvous with the bus and I was able to pootle under
the crags of Nelsons Monument and down to the Chesterfield Road and the Robin
Hood Inn. I had 20 minutes to wait for the bus, not enough time for a coffee in
the pub but the sun was now shining and I could sit out in warmer conditions.
Stopping the bus was another problem. It descended down the main road towards
me at quite some speed and I was jumping and waving at the bus stop to ensure
that it could stop in time. But I was soon warm and dry and on my way to
Bakewell where I had another 20-minute wait for the TransPeak service to
Buxton. A 30-minute connection provided the opportunity of a coffee and cake so
I was not too hungry as the Macclesfield bus crossed over the Cat & Fiddle towards
home. One last commitment though. Thursday evenings are my regular ‘early-doors’
session with two mates. And this bus was heading right passed the pub. So, I
was able to celebrate my successful trip round 80 miles on the Peak District
Boundary with pints of Reverie (4.2%) from Abbeydale, Rattus Norvegicus (4.5%)
from Rat Brewery and Isobar IPA (4.3%) from my home town brewery, Storm. What a
fabulous conclusion to an adventurous week’s walking.
Ringinglow dep. 08.22, The Robin Hood Inn
arr. 14.55
GPS 14.81 miles in 5hrs 58mins 10secs walking
time with 30 mins in the Royal Oak in Millthorpe.
Conclusion
During these five-days, I walked
82 miles in total, almost 80 miles of which was on the official route of the
PDBW as per the guidebook published by the Friends of the Peak District. I
found the trail not totally satisfying and would not place it in my favourite
land-distance footpaths. The route is rather contrived, based as it is to
following the nearest rights of way to the national park boundary. The
excursions, out and back, whilst beneficial for stage and accommodation
planning, were rather frustration to the through walker. However I had chosen
to follow the guidebook so I followed every extrinsicity. The PDBW does however
introduce the trail walker to new and fascinating corners of the Peak District
and for that I am grateful to those who planned and promoted the idea. I intend
to complete the round and should be able to manage that with a further four days
of walking. And that will have the advantage of walking home.
