Introduction
The England Coast Path project is far from complete. The government
website shows that access and signage exist for less than half the route so I
have been choosing bits of the coast that have already had a county-based coastal
trail in place. This year the Northumberland and Kent Coast paths have provided
a start for walking the entire English coast. The Kent path in August proved
quite a challenge as a storm came through on an exposed section of the Channel
coast. I then waited for the quiet month of September, possibly the Indian summer
we have been waiting for, to tackle a trip around the Isle of Wight. In the
post-monsoon season, surely a pleasant few days could be spent on this quaint
island, a time warp in the Solent. Little did I know what was coming.
I booked the trains late, hoping to squeeze a journey in between rail
strikes. At the last minute, the accommodation was rather problematic but
eventually all arrangements were in place and I was on a Monday morning train
to Euston. Crossing London to Waterloo, I was in good time for my pre-booked
train to Portsmouth. Then came the dreaded announcement, one that has shadowed
me all summer. No crew to take the train. So, the best laid plans of mice and
ferries went out of the window. The hovercraft had left Southsea by the time I
arrived and a later crossing got me to Ryde just before 4pm. Unfortunately, I
still had half a day’s walking to do.
Monday 18th September 2023 Ryde - Cowes
A Ticket to Ryde
With no time for any refreshments,
I set off straight from the hoverport, over the railway and along the
promenade. The signed route went inland, climbing out of the town on suburban
roads that led to a wooded track across a golf course. This emerged in a small
hamlet with a stunningly beautiful church, Holy Cross at Binstead. Some lovely
old stone houses lined the lane, remnants of a ruined Cistercian Abbey. The new
abbey, Quarr, is a monstrous-looking building, looking entirely out of place in
this gentle wooded countryside. Suddenly there was traffic everywhere and I had
reached the car ferry terminal at Fishbourne. A side passage leading to a quiet
lane provided a moment of peace before the inevitable main road down to Wootton
Bridge and over the creek.
The rest of the day was on tarmac,
initially through housing and then a country lane across a shallow wooded
valley. The road got busier and busier until it emerged onto the main trunk
road into Cowes. Passing a large school and its playing fields and then the
entrance to Osbourne House, one of Queen Victoria’s favourite residences, the road
gradually descended through East Cowes down
to the river. At the Floating Bridge, the ferry across the river, I fell into
conversation with a Manxman who was overseeing the maintenance of his racing yacht.
The ferry only took card payments and, as the card reader was not working, we
crossed for free. My companion walked me up into West Cowes and pointed out the
route to my accommodation for the night, a pub in High Street, a narrow
pedestrianised street in the oldest part of town. The fast pace and easy going
had enabled me to arrive before dusk.
Ryde dep. 15.52, Cowes arr. 18.47
GPS 8.16 miles in 2hr 44mins 30secs.
Stayed in the Anchor Inn, a
pleasant pub in High Street, West Cowes. The pub provided a meal of roast pork,
sausage meat and apple sauce on crusty bread followed by treacle tart and ice
cream. The beer was from Siren Craft Brew in Finchampstead, near Wokingham,
Lumina (4.2%).
Tuesday 19th September 2023 Cowes – Yarmouth
A Storm is Brewing
Breakfast was not on offer at the Anchor so I slipped out of the deserted
pub before 9am and went over to the Eegons Café where a bacon and sausage
sandwich was most welcome. The coast path continued through the shopping centre
and along the esplanade round Egypt Point. The wind was beginning to pick up
and I had donned waterproof over trousers against the forecast rain showers.
Through Gurnard the route was on roads which cut inland at one point to get
round Gurnard Bay. A path led uphill onto a cliff- top trail above some
jungle-filled landslip. I felt that I was at last on a true coastal route with
a spectacular view opening up in front of me. The definite path came out onto a
wide stoney beach where the line had to be guessed at from dog walkers ahead. A
car park was reached and a vehicle access track led away from the sea into a
holiday park where a gate was swinging in the strong wind. The exit path from
the top of the site was not obvious but, once found, was easy to follow through
fields down to a narrow lane. A long section of road was to follow.
Too early for the pub in Porchfield! Two miles of busy roads and lanes
led to Newtown and a path across fields to reach to old town hall building
standing high and alone outside the village. Here the first rain shower blew in
and waterproofs were zipped up in protest. Another mile of road brought me to a
track round a farm and over a stream and onto a lane into Shalfleet and its pub
and busy main road. St Michael the Archangel Church held me for a few minutes before
I was forced onto the frighteningly busy A-road which had no pavement or verge
of any kind until an estate of houses appeared. I was relieved to turn off this
highway and onto the fields towards Nunneys Wood. After crossing a few creeks,
a wide track was reached which gave vehicle access to Pigeon Coo and beyond.
Taking the Hamstead Trail, I as now heading east back from whence I had come.
The turning point was at a private jetty near Lower Hamstead Farm. Here I
paused for a bite of my emergency rations and a welcome rest.
The boardwalk around the next creek was underwater and my feet were wet
for the first time on the trip. Then it was northwards back to the coast, down
some steps and onto the pebbly beach. The high tide and storm surge had left
little room to walk so the trod that opened up through the vegetation was very
welcome. This climbed steadily up to Hamstead Farm and out onto high cliffs
again, this time above Bouldnor Cliff. Down into a boggy area of gorse and
thorns, the route became more indiscernible as it clung to a slippery line over
tree roots above the muddy shore. Suddenly, this section was at an end at a
private drive and into civilisation and Bouldnor village. The pier at Yarmouth
was now in view but it took a long time to reach along the pavement of the main
road into a stiff breeze. Some steps led to the waterfront and along a concrete
wall sea defence into the old town. The café/restaurant where I booked in was
right in the centre of the village, in St James’ Square next to the church.
Good progress had been made along the north coast of the island. I had time to
enjoy the offerings of the café, in this case apple cake, before preparing
myself for the fleshpots of Yarmouth.
Cowes dep. 08.50, Yarmouth arr.15.30
GPS 16.73 miles in 6hrs 01mins 32secs
walking time plus 30 mins Eegons Café for breakfast and 10 mins at Hamstead
Jetty for more emergency rations.
Stayed in Jireh House in Yarmouth,
had a quick pint in the Wheatsheaf, Romsey Gold (4.5%), from Flack Manor
Brewery in Romsey and ate in the Bugle Coaching Inn. Here I reverted to fish
and chips and a pint of Coachmans (3.6%), brewed for the pub by Yates’ Brewery on
the IOW.
Wednesday 20th September 2023 Yarmouth – Brighstone
Looking for a Needle in a Hurricane
The forecast was horrendous, one person referred to it as ‘biblical’.
Although a 9am breakfast was offered to me, I declined and sent my apologies.
By 8.30am the rucksack was packed and waterproofed. It just seemed a bright and
breezy morning as I crossed the river and set off along the seafront and then uphill
into the woods. Leaving the coast for a short while, the route wound around
lanes and though built-up areas round to Colwell where it turned seawards again
into a large holiday park. Huge seas were pounding the seawall and I had to
time my passage to keep dry. When the walkway came to an end, a set of steep
steps led up the cliff and continued up a road and through woodland onto the
top of Headon Hill, an area of open moorland. The view ahead was magnificent,
over Alum Bay to the Needles. A steep and devious descent dropped into the bus
terminal at Alum Bay and all the tacky tourist development behind. Then began
the steady climb into the hurricane.
At the New Battery, it was almost impossible to stand upright. The wind
was reportedly over 75mph and I felt that it was too dangerous to seek out the
exposed viewpoint overlooking the Needles. A guy offered to take my photo but
got blown over as I posed for the shot. The wind down at the Old Battery was no
less and I still could not get a good view of the lighthouse below. So, I
turned with the gale now coming from behind and got blown over West High Down
and over to Tennyson’s Monument. Too dangerous to pause and take in the view. I
was picked off my feet at one point on the grassy descent to Freshwater Bay.
Huge seas were crashing over the rocks in the bay as I set out up the narrow
path towards Freshwater Cliff. I could no longer keep my feet so I took to the
Military Road for a couple of miles. This was probably just as dangerous
because drivers on the IOW are not renowned for their curtesy and consideration
for pedestrians. Rejoining the clifftop path at Shippards Chine car park, a
wide and level grassy path proved easier going. At least I was being blown inland
away from the edge of the cliffs.
The rain had now set in. A weather warning for heavy rain had been issued
but it was only showers at the moment. A straightforward tramp down the cliffs was
interrupted by another chine at Brook leading on an excursion back to the main
road, The next chine was at Chilton where the road diversion led passed the IOW
Pearl, a large hotel complex. The return path to the coast was closed and the
route was diverted inland. This was not for me. I had a b&b just ahead and
the rain was getting heavier. So, it was along the military road again to the
next crossroads then left into Brighstone village. Margaret, my host for the
night, had text me to say that she was working and would not be home to give me
access to my room until 4.30pm.. So I searched out the Tandem Café and ordered
a coffee and panini. The lady who ran the café allowed me to change out of my
wet clothes and I was delighted that Margaret joined me an hour earlier than
planned. I was shown to a lovely room upstairs, delightfully furnished and
decorated, by far my best room of the week. I texted my wife to inform her that I had
survived the day. All I had to do now was crawl 50 metres in the rain along the
road for my evening meal.
Yarmouth dep. 08.34, Brighstone arr.14.35
GPS 16.28 miles in 5hrs 59mins 56secs
walking time plus 15mins rest near Freshwater Bay..
Food was to be had at the Three
Bishops pub where I chose chicken and ham pie and mash and the most wonderful
stick toffee pudding. The beer was Landlord (4.1%) from Timothy Taylor.
Thursday 21st September 2023
Brighstone – Shanklin
Diversions, Diversions, Diversions
The ladies downstairs in the Tandem Café cooked me a fried breakfast as
soon as they opened. This got me a prompt getaway just before 9.30am. I was in
shorts for the first time this week. The sun was out and the wind had died down
somewhat and it was much improved weather
for the 0.75ml road walk back to the coast. The first task was to cross Grange
Chine on a narrow wooden footbridge and to shin up a zig-zagging set of steps
onto the cliff top. A lovely few miles of level grassy walking was interrupted
by a twin chine system involving two trips inland. At Chale the route curved up
to the main road to pass through the village, then into a farm lane that led
back to the busy main road which was followed to the entrance of Blackgang
Chine. The route continued to climb, on the road at first and then on a field
path parallel to the road to emerge at a fabulous viewpoint looking back along
the coast. A high-level path, way above the sea, took me into the outskirts of
Niton. I had rounded the southernmost point on the island and was now on the
home run.
It was too early to go searching for a café so I continued on the marked
route that by-passed Niton village and climbed onto high clifftops. A strategically
placed bench provided a superb view and an opportunity for a rest and a nibble
of the last of my rations. An American couple from Seattle stopped for a brief
chat and to compare notes on coastal walking. A glorious high-level path
contoured across the clifftops until a set of steps dropped me into the outskirts
of St Lawrence and on down a steep path to the water’s edge at Steephill Cove.
Here a lovely café, the Beach Shack, clung to the shore above a turbulent sea.
It was a dramatic spot and an opportunity for a coffee and much needed carrot cake.
From here of course the only way was up, first into Ventnor and a series of
path closures. It started pleasantly with an ascend to the botanical gardens
and then steeper paths through Salisbury Gardens. But then I reached the first
of the ‘footpath closed’ signs with no diversion indicated. I climbed up into
the upper gardens, walked round in circles trying to find an exit, then
ventured out onto the streets of Ventnor and down a long street back to the
seafront. Now I was faced with an ‘esplanade closed’ sign. Was I ever going to
find my way out of Ventnor.
A slog up endless steps took me back to a suburban street where I had to
enquire of some walkers the route back to the coast. They indicated a flight of
steps and I was on my way again, along the esplanade to the hamlet at Horseshoe
Bay. Here a rising path left the seafront yet again and wound its way up to a very old church, St Boniface’s at Bonchurch. Then came an amazing section
through a temperate rainforest in a section of landslip, reminiscent of the undercliff
at Lyme Regis, The wet, muddy, narrow path climbed over rocks and tree roots
for more than a mile, eventually emerging high up near Luccombe Village. Just
as I thought the problems were over, another big diversion was signed, this
time up the hill away from the coast. A series of field paths looped back to
the village, passing through more wet woodland before reaching a lane descending
into Shanklin. As the route dropped into town, one more diversion had to be
negotiated, back to the main road and through the centre of the village. This
had the bonus of taking me passed the end of Queens Road, where my hotel
awaited. The diversions had put a good mile extra on my day’s total and it
turned out to be the toughest test of the trip, even without any wind.
Brighstone dep. 09.26, Shanklin
arr.17.25
GPS 18.32 miles in 7hrs 17mins 24secs
walking time plus 15min on a bench near Niton and 25 mins in the Beach Shack in
Steephill Cove.
Stayed in the Queensmead Hotel on
Queens Rd, Shanklin. The nearest real ale was down on the waterfront but the
path down the cliffs was closed. The diversion was via the lift where a
discounted fare of £1 return was operating. The pubs on the seafront were very
busy and in the first one, people were queuing for a beer. The Waterfront Inn
next door squeezed me onto an outside table and provided me with some locally
brewed Fuggle Dee Dum (4.8%) from Goddards. A plate of fish and chips was
wolfed down, the lift was ascended and an early night was had.
Friday 22nd September 2023 Shanklin
– Ryde
The breakfast room at the hotel opened at 8am and I was first in,
ordering my full English. By 8.45am the room had been vacated and I was
struggling to get my boots on. It was a beautiful morning. The wind had dropped
and the sea looked like a millpond as I started down to the clifftop and along
the roads and paths that led over the hill to Sandown. The seafront was quite
busy, the liveliest place I had seen all week. Fast progress was made until, at
the car park at the north end of the bay, the coast path climbed relentlessly up
a huge grass slope. A monument stood on the summit of Culver Down and the view
was 360 degrees over the Channel and the east part of the island. The buildings
of Portsmouth glittered on the other side of the Solent. The way plunged down
into Bembridge, which hardly registered as the path ran between two thick high
hedges until it emerged onto a road of smart houses. Following the map, I
turned down to the beach where progress could only be made over pebbles and
sand. A sign pointing inland took me back onto the waymarked route which had
run parallel to the beach but 300 metres inland. I now religiously followed the
signs towards Bembridge Harbour where the Harbour View Café provided me with a
coffee and cake and a well-earned rest.
A dreary road section brought me to St Helens where the route turned
sharp right round the north side of the harbour and took to a narrow causeway
built across the tidal marshland. A lane led to a holiday camp which was
bypassed on the landward side by field paths that headed towards Seaview and
the north easterly corner of the island. The weather was turning dreary as
well. A clap in thunder induced me to don my waterproof jacket as I came across
another ‘path closed’ sign. With no alternative, I walked on through the
roadworks and no one batted an eyelid. The centre of Seaview appeared rather
pleasant but I was not tempted by the cafes. The end was in sight and, from the
coast road, the pier at Ryde was in view. It was still some way away but easy
walking through Puckpool Park brought me out at a glorious beach, Ryde East
Sands, the best beach I had come across on the entire coast. Entering the
outskirts of Ryde past a circular tower, I watched the hovercraft leaving from
the tourist complex up ahead. I had an hour to wait for the next crossing so I
popped into the café at the Superbowl and had a hot sandwich and chips. I was
in good time for the 3.15pm hovercraft which was in Southsea in less than 10
minute. My trip round the Isle of Wight had been successfully completed and I was
more than ready to head for home.
Shanklin dep. 08.49, Ryde arr. 14.30
GPS 14.60 miles in 5hrs 17mins 33secs walking
time with 30 mins in the Harbour View Café at Bembridge.
Conclusion
The Hoverbus was waiting to take
passengers from the hovercraft into the centre of Portsmouth. I had a wander
through the pedestrianised shopping centre without being tempted by cafes or
pubs. The train to Waterloo was on time and this arrived pretty punctually
despite threatened diversions due to points failures. I even had enough time to
sneak into the Euston Tap where I celebrated a walk well done with a pint of
AM:PM (4.5%) from Thornbridge Brewery. The Avanti train was 20mins late leaving
Euston so it was 10pm before I was picked up from Macclesfield Station. A long
day indeed but I was more than happy with my week despite the two-day storm.
I had managed 74 miles in the
week, more than the prescheduled 70 miles of the official guides due to
excursions off route to find my accommodation and of course the annoying
diversions around Ventnor and Shanklin. The hurricane conditions were survived
with a mixture of common sense, judicious use of the roads and of course a
touch of luck. Parts of the walk were as good a coast walk as I have had all
year, and I have spent much of my walking year on the coast. Maybe it is time to
head inland to the hills. The England Coast Path is not as alluring as it’s
cracked up to be.
