Heart of England Way

Milford – Bourton on the Water, 8^th-12^th April 2013

Introduction

 As the winter weather seemed everlasting this year, I was looking for a low level route for my spring offensive. Then we were invited to a family christening in Oxfordshire and all was revealed. I would walk there and Jill would drive down for the weekend and bring me home. And the best route available seemed to be the Heart of England Way. I made the bookings and prepared the rucksack. It all seemed so simple. Then United changed the date of their match with City.

 

Monday 8^th April       Milford – Lichfield

Home for the Derby

 I drove down to the station and caught an early train to Stafford, then a bus to Milford. This dropped me off at the very start of the route, in a car park on Milford Common. The ascent onto Cannock Chase was up a series of long steady inclines, gentle but ever upwards until the plateau was reached. I saw the trig point but failed to recognise the Glacier Boulder, unless it was a small stone near a remote car park. If this was it, then it was very disappointing. Then I must have taken the wrong path out of this car park because I never found the Polish Memorial. Instead I hit the path coming away from it and I wasn’t going back. After all, I had a train to catch.
 

There was no more trouble with route finding. Marquis Drive is a long straight route that spears across the rest of the Chase. Only a short section is tarmacked, that being around the visitor centre. The turn-off was along a very busy road and an off road alternative turned out to be very wet and muddy. But it led directly onto the footpath to Castle Ring and then passed a whole series of pubs. The descent from high ground was along another roadside path but once in the Trent Valley there was much road walking and my first ploughed field.  But I was soon in the outskirts of Lichfield, passing quickly through parks and sports field and round the back of the houses into the Cathedral precinct.

 I walked through the pedestrianised town centre until I got to Birmingham Road. There I abandoned the route, turned north and strode out for Trent Valley Station. I took a train back home, collected the car, changed and fed and set off for Old Trafford. That was a waste of time but at least I slept in my own bed.

Milford dep. 09.15, Lichfield arr. 13.30, 15 miles on route (plus another mile or more to the station) in 4hrs 15 mins.

Tuesday 9^th April 2013       Lichfield  – Whitacre Heath

Back to the Job in Hand

So it was back to the station again and another train, this time back to Lichfield. I missed the connection (signal failure) into City Station so had to resort to a taxi but was soon back in the central shopping area having a cappuccino & carrot cake. The exit from Lichfield was quite complex and I was glad of the guidebook as I took ginnels and pavements through new housing estates. Eventually I came out on the A51 and had a long stretch on the pavement to the outskirts of the city. Finally I turned out of civilisation onto a lovely straight path heading south.

At Buck Head’s Farm, just after the A5 footbridge, I met a lone woman doing the end-to-end walk. She was a GP wanting a career break who had decided to take three months leave and go for it. I wished her luck and we went our opposite ways, me to enjoy a great climb up to Rookery Farm and roads and fields to Hint’s Farm. Then followed the worst section on the entire route, four miles or more of tarmac through to Drayton Bassett and the canal. The author of the guidebook had indicated the obvious off-road alternative but was prevented from making it official by a short length of private road. It will be a great benefit when he overcomes this impasse.

It was interesting crossing the canal over the twin towers bridge and a blessed relief to be on a towpath after all that road. Three miles of towpath brought me to the first of the wildlife pools and I turned off round the lakes to reach Broomey Croft Children’s’ Farm where, Lord be thankful, there was a tea shop. A very reasonably priced tea and fruit cake saw me fuelled for the final few miles, these consisting of a tour of Kingsbury Water Park and then an exit into Kingsbury village. The approach to the village was dramatic with a ruined fortified hall high up on a bluff above the river and some steps leading up to a lovely old church.

The last section round the firing range involved a long crossing of a newly ploughed field and then across farmland into Whitacre Heath. Here I took the official route on the east side of the railway and, just as I realised I was bypassing my accommodation for the night, I came to a footbridge over the railway and back to the digs.

 Lichfield dep. 10.53, Whitacre Heath arr. 17.25, GPS 19.90 miles in 6hrs 16m 11s.

 I stayed in the Railway Guest House on Station Road, Whitacre Heath. I ate in the Swan Inn, Partridge pie and chips with spotted dick and custard and some well-kept Bass Premium Ale (4.4%).

Wednesday 10^th April 2013    Whitacre Heath – Henley in Arden

Old Churches Galore

I was woken early with water dripping from the ceiling onto the foot of my bed. Problems with the shower upstairs, said my landlady trying to remain calm. But at least I got a good early start for what was planned to be the longest day of the trip. Unfortunately it turned out to be even longer than expected. The guidebook, so reliable in every other facet, had the first section down as 3.25 miles. When my GPS reached 4.25 miles, I realised that someone had made an error, a mistake that was then replicated through the book in total aggregate mileages.

 

I could hear the M6 from more than two miles away, a constant low frequency roar. It was a relief to reach and cross it on a mud-covered farmer’s bridge. Now at least the roar was behind me. The improvement in the weather had brought out all the farmers and unfortunately I have to traverse several newly ploughed fields. A full day of this would have been dreadful but the route got less ploughed and more pleasant as I went south. 

I passed some lovely old churches, in particular St Laurence at Meriden and St John Baptist at Berkswell. The latter had a medieval wooden porch on its south door. I took a quick peep inside and gave thanks for the continuing dry weather. I was sunburnt. Then I passed over the boardwalks and into parkland. Just then, my phone rang. It was my daughter Rachel with some news that stopped me in my tracks. She was expecting another baby and I was to be a grand-father once again. I was so preoccupied with the prospect that I completely missed the loop into Baddesley Clinton and was on the road through the village before I realised my error. But who cares when you are walking on air. I got back on-route at the Poor Clares Convent and in no time at all was down at the magnificent old hall. The good weather had brought every one out and their dog. The car park was heaving and it was not the day for a quiet look around. I must return here again.  

Then it was only a short section to the complex of canals that, once successfully navigated, would lead directly towards the end of my day. The towpath of the Stratford Canal passed under the M40 and at the next village, I turned for home. A surprising hilly section finished on the Mount, an Iron Age fort overlooking Henley. The staggering views gave a good end to the day. A steep descent to another old church dropped me straight onto the main street. My hotel was a short way to the left. 

Whitacre Heath dep. 08.40, Henley in Arden arr. 17.20, GPS 26.54 in 8hr 38m 28s 

I stayed in the Bridge House Hotel and tried to eat at the White Swan (superb pint of Chamberlain Pale Ale 4.5% from Two Towers Brewery) but they had a function on so I retreated to an Indian (Naya) and sunk two pints of Cobra. 

Thursday 11^th April 2013     Henley in Arden – Lower Quinton

Protests in the Country 

It had rained during the night and it was wet underfoot for the first time this week. It was a grey misty morning and very cold, what a Scot would refer to as driek. But it was good walking over grassy fields up to Bannam’s Wood. There was enough uncleared windfall in the woods to make it a tricky traverse. But the route turned soon enough towards Alcester. The last mile into town were spectacular, along a high ridge that led right into the out suberbs with industry on either side. The town itself looked very pleasant but the coffee shops were very busy. One was too full to consider whilst the next suggested I look elsewhere. Well, it was a bit early for a morning break so I walked on. 

I continued up the hill out of town and passed Oversley Castle, a relatively modern construction.  
Then it was a long line of stiles through Wixford and Broome before entering the outskirts of Bidford on Avon. At the old river bridge, I glance towards the town centre and, lo and behold, there was a tea shop. A pot of Earl Grey and a ‘lardy’ were just what the doctor ordered. So 30 minutes later, I was still preparing to cross the narrow bridge. On the other side the route crossed the flood meadows to Barton which had a very nice-looking pub. Then a farm track seemed to go on for ever. This brought me to new coverts, plantations under the Heart of England Forest Project.

In Dorsington, I admired the expensive house mentioned in the guidebook. Banners all over the village professed the local opposition to a wedding venue and party tent at the nearby hotel. A long flat section beside a stream led across the fields to Long Marston, a one street town on a busy road. A two mile stretch of field edge paths took me round and into Lower Quinton. At the junior school, I left the route and turned right in search of my b&b. This turned out to be the very last building in the village. I arrived just in time. The rain bucket down until it was time to go out in search of food. 

Henley in Arden dep. 08.51, Lower Quinton arr. 16.40, GPS 21.46 miles in 7hrs 18m 36s 

I stayed in Vicarage Farm which was at the western extremity of the village. The walk across the village to and from the College Arms added another two miles to the day’s total. The Venison Casserole & dumplings was perfect. The beer was Doom Bar (Sharps/Coors at 4.0%)

 

Friday 12^th April 2013     Lower Quinton – Bourton on the Water

Gloucestershire Mud 

I was back on a tight schedule today as Jill was driving down this afternoon to meet me. So I went for an early get-away and was quickly back onto route and along the road to Upper Quinton. From there a field path contoured round Meon Hill and it was quite difficult to pick the exact line. The overnight rain made all off-road walking extremely slippery. But I was soon in Mickleton, the home of the Pudding Club. But I saw nothing of the village as I went straight through between the houses and came out at the church. Then there was a long climb up a muddy field and on to Mickleton Hills. The farm was a beautiful building and then the path turned right across the top of the railway tunnel entrance and headed off into Chipping Campden. This looked gorgeous in a bit of morning sunshine. What a pity I had no time for tea shops. 

A ploughed field into Broad Campden was a pain and the slippery and overgrown contour out to Campden Hill Farm was a drag. I just could not get any pace or rhythm going. Then it began to rain again and the farm track descended into mud. I gained two inched in height in the next mile. There was a deep valley between me and Blockley and I was getting hotter and hotter in all my rain gear. I had a five minute mind block before I found to correct path out of Blockley. This led up another steep climb to where a party of day walkers were warning me of even more mud. The next section and especially the descent into Batsford Park was a nightmare as I skated from side to side on the increasingly slippery surface. I was glad to get to the bottom and to turn onto the paths and roads that led to Bourton on the Hill.

The sun came out again as I set off into Sezincote Park and off came all the waterproofs. But the only likeliness to Rajasthan came from the Sezincote House. The mud told me that I was not in India. Then in Longborough a black cloud deposited another load of water onto the footpaths and
even the grassy field were now slow going. Jill text me to say she was parked up and I had to reply that I would be late. What with slipping and sliding and taking waterproofs on and off, I was running behind schedule.

So it was after 4pm (our rendezvous time) that I was waiting to cross the busy Bourton by-pass. I walked back into suburbia and found the path to the church that was the end of the way. Jill was walking up High Street as I arrived at the finish. She had recced the tea shops and I was soon tackling a large piece of Victoria Sponge, the first thing I had eaten all day. Then she bundled me into her car and we drove off for our weekend and Christening in Oxfordshire. 

Lower Quinton dep. 08.38, Bourton on the Water arr. 16.07, GPS 22.69 in 7hrs 29m 03s

Conclusions 

I was amazed at the sustained quality of the route of the trail. The avoidable road sections and the ploughed fields did not detract from some lovely (and hilly) countryside. And remember, the Way is at least a mile longer than the guidebook says.

 

 

Camel -Teign Ivor's Dream 100

 

Jamaica Inn – Teignmouth

23^rd-26^th March 2013

 

Introduction

Mike was planning an attempt on the 2013 LDWA 100. Success would be his 20^th over at 25 year period, a remarkable feat. But a recce would be of great benefit, especially a recce of the section he would be doing under darkness. So he arranged a four day trip to look at the last 77 miles of the route and invited me to join him. The route was breath-taking in its concept, a coast to coast west-east traverse of Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor from the Atlantic to the Channel coast, from Cornwall to Devon. How could I resist!

Saturday 23^rd March 2013       Jamaica Inn – North Hill

I’m Dreaming of a White Easter

As the snow began to fall, Jill drove me to the station to catch an early morning train. The roads were covered with slush and I was worried about dragging her out on such a morning. Mike was already waiting for me with the train tickets and we were soon off to Birmingham passing through a snow-covered landscape. The east wind was blowing more snow almost horizontally across the fields. As we got further south the snow got thicker. At New Street Station we stood watching the departures board whilst awaiting the delayed connection. But, half an hour late, the Exeter train arrived and on we got. Ten minutes out of Birmingham, however, we ground to a halt. Trees brought down by the combined weight of wind and snow were blocking the line. Eventually we returned to New Street and tried again on the next train, absolutely packed now of course with reservations out of the window and under a snow drift.

We eventually got through the blockage and headed south and southwest to catch a connection at Exeter that put us 2 hours behind our original schedule. So it was nearly 4 pm when we arrived at Bodmin Parkway and 4.15pm when the taxi dropped us at Jamaica Inn. (The driver had been
expecting to put his clocks forward that night – a week early – so it’s a good job we hadn’t booked him for the following day!) There was no snow but at least it was not raining. With seven mile to cover and racing the oncoming dusk, there was no time for niceties. We were off, along a lane and through farmland onto Bodmin Moor. The moor itself was trackless and the traverse was on a compass bearing which was not particularly accurate. We ended up south of our intended target but a wall corner was a superb orientation point and we scampered off the moor and along the lanes into North Hill as darkness descended. The pub was the very last building in the village.

 Jamaica Inn dep. 16.15, North Hill  arr. 18.30,  GPS  7.16 miles in 2hrs 13m 07s

Stayed in the Racehorse Inn. Ate chicken curry, apple crumble and custard and pints of Harbour Brewery, Bodmin, Light Ale  3.7% and Sharps Doombar 4%. The offer of 2 courses for £10 was excellent value.

Sunday 24^th March 2013       North Hill – Tavistock
Turkey Attack

We had ordered breakfast for 8am and were down early. We had a big day ahead of us. So, with a full English inside to keep us warm, we set off at 8.45am down the lane and steep grassy field to the local stream where the owner of the pub was walking his dog.  Then followed a steep climb onto Twelve Mans Moor, the last outlier of Bodmin Moor. Another compass crossing, more accurate this time, led us across trackless moorland onto a huge pile of boulders where the instructions told us to turn left and aim for a 20ft high granite outcrop. This was entirely overshadowed by Sharp Tor and did not become obvious until we had reached it. But we then had the line off the moor down to an enclosed lane and farm track. A granite based tramway took us round the hillside to Minions and our first civilisation of the day. The surrounding hills were covered by derelict chimneys and wheel-houses from old mining works.

It was too early to stop in a café so on we strode along a long tarmacked lane that led to a hill covered with communications towers. Then a grassy descent besides a wall took us down to Pensilva. We met a guy there who obviously knew what we were up to; he had a friend who was a member of the LDWA and was considering have a go at the 100. The next section took us through Scrawsdon Farm where Mike was attacked by a huge turkey, displaying with its colourful tail/ruff feathers. It pecked at us as we crossed the farm yard and then chased us up the track. ‘Better than a guard dog’, said the farmer. ‘Just wait till Christmas’, replied Mike.

As we crossed Kerney Bridge, we were face with a ‘footpath closed’ sign. Undeterred we blundered on, to find the only concern was that a small drainage channel (canalised steam) had lost its footbridge. As it could be crossed with a single stride, a plank would have sufficed. The footpath closure was another example of health & safety madness in action. There was no café open on a Sunday in Callington so we sat on a bench near the church and ate our snacks (and froze).  Then, after a stutter with the route near Tesco we climbed out of town and up to Kitts Hill, supposedly a fine view point but not today. Another missed turned cost us an extra ¼ mile on the way down but the rest of the section was on easy lanes and tracks to Luckett. Another short rest prepared us for the denouement of the day, the muddy exit from the village and crossing of the Tamar at Horsebridge (“leaving God’s own country  behind” said the Route Description). Devon did not initially seem as attractive. A climb through a huge wood was topped by contaminated water signs and an old arsenic works. Then there was much road walking to reach Tavistock over the historic old railway viaduct.
 

We stayed in Kingfisher Cottage beautifully situated on the banks of the river. The owner had just got in after organising the local half-marathon. We might have been better running this. We had walked more than twice the distance. There was no pub in town serving food on a Sunday evening! So we ate in the Tavi Friary, a fish & chip shop (bottled Jail Ale 4%, from Dartmoor Brewery.

North Hill dep. 08.45, Tavistock arr. 18.15, GPS 27.92 miles in 9hrs 26m 30s.

Monday 25^th March 2013    Tavistock – Ashburton
Jail Ale Rock

It promised to be a shorter day, even though we were attempting a complete traverse of Dartmoor. So a more leisurely breakfast and start time led to me ringing Rachel as we climbed in bright sunshine steeply onto and over the golf course. It was soon too cold for messing around and we donned cagoules over the already well-covered torsos. The wind was penetrating five layers of winter walking gear. We thought that we were aiming at the tops of a series of high rocky tors and felt cheated when our route took us round and down a long series of roads. Eventually however we got up high to contour round Ingra Tor on an old railway track. A series of right turns then took us up again to a wide track which curved and contoured for miles through the moor to Princetown. It was on this section that we met more walkers than at any other part of our journey. A Duke of Edinburgh party of girls, then dog walkers, all were out walking towards us. We were the only ones attempting the trip into the bitingly cold wind. The route entered town passed the brewery that had made last night’s beer, Jail Ale.

The Old Police Station Café was open in Princetown so in we went and ordered our soup, apple pies and coffee. It was tempting to stay in the warmth for the rest of the day but it was eventually time to venture out again onto Dartmoor. The section over to Huccaby Farm was described as easy and so it was except for the bleakness, bogginess, straightness and pathless nature of the route. It was a blessing when we crossed the River Swincombe and climbed into farmland and civilisation. Huccaby Farm is in a lovely spot opposite an old church. The next mile was far from lovely, first climbing a field of deep vehicle tracks, then dropping through ankle deep water to another hamlet before emerging on the road at Dartmeet. Then an ultra-steep climb on tarmac and a narrow trod which cut off a corner of the road. The trod continued a few yards to one side of the road, a poor attempt at keeping walkers off this busy highway. A wall was followed over almost trackless access land before we finally dropped onto a quiet lane which led us round to Dr Blackall’s Drive.

Then followed some of the finest walking on the entire route. The drive became an undulating track clinging to the edge of a long ridge and overlooking the wooded valley of the Dart, 500ft or so below. It could have been Scotland and Switzerland for that magnificent few miles. All too soon we were dropping down and down back to river level, this time to cross the Dart again at New Bridge. A late climb led over another ridge and down to the Dart for the last time at Holne Bridge. A long road section took us through the narrow lanes and into the outskirts of Ashburton.  

We stayed in the Old Coffee House next to the church. Across the road, the Exeter Inn was in the Good Beer Guide. (Dartmoor IPA 4.0%). But not the Good Food Guide so we went up the road to the Royal Oak where we got free puddings with our main course, (Teignworthy Reel Ale).

Tavistock dep. 09.00, Ashburton arr. 17.45  GPS  22.76 miles in 8hrs 4m 31s

Tuesday 26^th March 2013     Ashburton – Teignmouth

Dash for the Train

We had the usual breakfast at the usual time. Mike ate all the carbs, I waited for the full English. Jack Sprat (or am I his wife?). The sun shone again as we headed north and then east through the woods and up to Owlacombe Cross. Along the road to Sigford, we picked up a dog; or rather an overweight Labrador picked us up. Whatever we did we could not rid ourselves of this dog. We tried climbing stiles and shutting gates in its face but it still found a way through. Three miles down route, and way from its home, we came across another farm where the farmer agreed to tie up our companion and ring the number on its collar (muttering “there might be a reward” under his breath).

On our own at last we climbed over the next hill and round the back of the houses in Liverton The next section was close rather suburban, including dog walkers. One in particular was most interesting. As we crossed a wooded parkland, we got into conversation with a guy exercising two pointer dogs. He was a police dog handler, a dog psychologist, and these dogs could take down an escaping criminal or sniff out drugs. A microchip in each dog reveals that they cover 45 miles each working day, beyond even our scope as long distance walkers.

There was a horrible section of flooded tracks and boggy heathland before we got to Chudleigh Knighton, a one-street town. Here we came across the River Teign, sure signs that we were reaching the conclusion of our walk. A long section of road took us round Ugbrooke House and its vast estate. The lead-in track to Larcombe Farm was also flooded, this time in shin-deep reddy mud and water. After a brief stop for a bite to eat, we set off from the farm in the wrong direction. This cost us almost
15 minutes and put us back on a very tight schedule to catch the train. So we had to concentrate hard now on the last big climb, a mile-long bridleway over the last ridge before the sea. At last though, we were racing over Teignmouth golf course and down Shepherds Lane into town.
 

The whereabouts of the school was pretty obvious. Hundreds of students were spilling out of college as we made our way through the town. The stream of children led us to the footbridge across the main road which would be the end of the 100. We then turned away from the school and headed for the station. We arrived with minutes to spare and were soon on our way to Exeter and then Birmingham. We missed the direct train connection at New Street so had to wait for a train to Stoke. Here we parted, me to jump on a fast train to Macclesfield and Mike to wait for a stopper to Congleton. Mike was met at the station whilst I got the dubious opportunity to make our 78 mile walk a round 80.

Ashburton dep. 08.45,  Teignmouth Station arr. 15.25    GPS 21.14 in 6hrs 44m 43s.

 

 

 

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path

6^th – 10^th June 2012

Introduction 

Robert, Jill’s cousin, had travelled up to see us earlier this year on a train that crosses the country and almost links our two homes. On departure he invited us to stay with him and Mary at their Norfolk cottage. A book on the Peddars Way has stood on my bookshelf for years. Here was a chance to tick off another national trail and get a weekend away. So I booked my one-way train ticket to Norfolk and set up the accommodation. Jill would drive down later and pick me up for our weekend break.   

Wednesday 6th June 2012       Knettishall – Stonebridge

 As I only had six miles scheduled for today, I could have a civilised start time. Jill took me down to the station for 10am and I was in good time for the 10.54 Stockport departure to Thetford. The train journey was through some stunningly beautiful countryside, Edale in particular looking a picture in the morning sunshine. We lost time near Nottingham and arrived in Thetford ten minutes late. I had booked a ‘dial a bus’ from a local charity and the lady driver was still waiting but getting increasingly anxious about my lateness. So we were immediately on our way to the start at Knettishall. I was dropped in the middle of nowhere, on a narrow lane through a dark wood. I changed into my walking shorts behind a tree and was quickly underway.

At first the route was along lovely grassy woodland trails, rather wet from the recent rains. It was sunny when I started but within an hour a huge black cloud dominated the sky and the thunder and lightning was followed by torrential rain. I scampered under a tree to don my waterproofs and then realised this was the worst of places to shelter from a thunder storm. So out came the umbrella and I continued along the middle of the track through the downpour, recalling the day when my mate Phil refused to walk with me when holding up a metal object in the midst of bolts of lightning strikes.  The storm soon passed through and it had almost stopped raining by the time I reached the roadside pub and its beautiful accommodation.

Knettishall   dep. 15.14  -  Stonebridge  arr. 17.30,    GPS: 6.31miles in 2hrs 03min 27sec.

Stayed at the Dog & Partridge at Stonebridge near East Wretham. I sampled their Thai Curry and could not resist the Spotted Dick and Custard. Two Woodforde beers were on, Wherry (3.8%) and Norfolk Gem (4.3%).

Thursday 7th June 2012          Stonebridge – Castle Acre

 The weather forecast was awful. A storm was to run up the west side of the country bringing rain and high winds. So it was with some trepidation that I stepped out of the back door of the pub and turned northwards. But it was calm and warm outside so I stowed my waterproofs and started through Thetford Forest and the Battle Area. The first six miles or so were on delightful grassy tracks but the route then took to a long section of tarmac, a main road westwards at first and then a quiet lane on the northerly line. After five miles of this, my left foot felt rather bruised and sore.

I had expected the trail to take me passed the pub in North Pickenham but it turned away from the village centre and headed off to the north west. So I forsook the pub stop and had a snack and drink near the old railway bridge. Then it was thankfully back to grass track up to the A47 crossing before more tarmac led passed Palgrave Hall and left at Great Palgrave where there was a chance to walk behind a hedge on one side of the lane. This descended to another road crossing and a quite lane to South Acre. A lovely view opened up over the priory and village behind. I entered Castle Acre along a narrow lane than ran through a deep ford (with a footbridge for walkers) and then climbed up to my overnight accommodation, a grade 2* listed Tudor house. I arrived at the moment it started to rain so, instead of exploring the lovely village, I lay on the bed reading and dozing whilst it bucketed it down outside. Who says this is a dry part of the world?

Stonebridge  dep.  08.52 -   Castle Acre  arr.  15.15:  GPS 19.58 miles in 6hrs 11 mins 41 sec walking time plus ten minute stop for lunch.

Stayed at the Tudor Lodgings, Castle Acre.  I ate at the Ostrich Inn, battered cod and chips and three pints of St Edmunds Golden Ale from Greene King. 

Friday 8^th June 2012       Castle Acre – Hunstanton

 At 7.30am I was sitting in a magnificent Tudor dining hall complete with open wooden beams high above me, a huge fire place at one end and a copy of the Telegraph beside my breakfast place. The storm raging outside did not tempt me to leaving such splendour. But needs must; I had a schedule to keep to. So everything was packed away in double layers of plastic and I eventually wandered out into the European monsoon. Today’s route was in a straight line for 20 miles, the first four of which was on road. The rain had abated but the wind was rising as the road peeled off to the right and the Peddars Way continued on it linear course. The next ten miles were the best section of this Roman road on a smooth grassy that crossed huge fields of crops and not a house or farm in sight. It went on and on and was a joy to walk, even with storm force winds battering me from behind.

A lad came towards me pushing a bike. He had had a puncture and was having to walk home, some ten or so miles away. I lent him my phone to ring for assistance but no one was in at home so he dejectedly walked on into the gale, resigned for a long walk pushing his stricken bike. I turned north again and was soon descending into Ringstead and the Gin Trap. But I was so near home that, even though I had had little to eat or drink all day, I pushed on to Holme and the beach where the Peddars Way just fades into the dunes. I turned westward along these dunes and found myself walking into the teeth of a gale, driving sand into my face as I took to the beach to avoid the soft going.

Scrambling up a low cliff to reach the Hunstanton lighthouse, I got onto the grassy promenade but progress was seriously impeded by the wind. It was like standing in a wind tunnel as I had to cut inland into the shelter of the houses to make any progress towards the town centre. Eventually I struggled to the cross on the Green and then into a coffee shop for a well-earned cake and cappuccino. It was the end of a hard and exhilarating day. I had just walked through the worst storm in ten years. And it was still June.

 Castle Acre  dep.  08.27  -   Hunstanton   arr.  16.05,  22.5 miles in 7hrs 25mins.

I stayed at the Forget Me Not Guest House in Glebe Avenue, Hunstanton and went to the Waterside pub for steak & kidney pudding and Adnams bitter.

Saturday 9^th June 2012            Hunstanton – Wells

Another early breakfast and I was away, this time with the wind behind me, back along the promenade and dunes to Holme. It was much easier going on the grass behind the dunes and adjacent to the golf course and I made good time round to Thornham. The wind was still blowing but it was not raining so I took off some clothing as I diverted inland where the route goes off on a long detour. The top path was pleasant walking and I was soon descending back down again to Brancaster where I paused for a few moments to compliment a lady on her beautiful garden. She was from Lincolnshire and had this bungalow as a second home (and another garden to tend). Dashing back over the coast road, it was onto a fascinating section of old railway sleepers, miles of them stretching along the strip between the houses and the sea.  It took me passed a small anchorage and a nice looking pub before I was out on the sea wall and away again from civilisation.

 I eventually arrived in the Burhams and the home of the local hero, Lord Nelson. There were many more tourists and day trippers out now and it was quite a long trail of people that were setting out along the sea wall to the beach. These disappeared into the dunes and their beach activities and I continued for more than two miles along the sands, trying to find the firmest ground to walk on. It always appears to take longer to cover distance when in a featureless environment but ever so gradually the gap in the coastal plantations got nearer and I was able to take once more to the grassy foreshore and pick up speed. I initially failed to find the coast path out of Lady Ann’s Road, floundering for a few moments in the trees. But by going inland a few more yards, I located the wide track and, just as the sun came out and it got quite warm, I set off on the last section of the day.

 Jill had been driving from home and I was wondering how she was going on with the long journey across country. She was planning to call in at the B&B and then locate her cousin Robert at his beach hut. Just as I arrived at the Wells lifeboat station and was turning towards the town, Jill texted me to say she was sitting in the beach hut having a cup of tea. Within minutes I had located the correct hut and was joining them in one of Mary’s lovely cakes. Then we both walked back into town together to finish the day’s walk in the most wonderful fashion.  

 Hunstanton      dep. 08.20       Wells   arr  15.30

22 miles in 7hrs 5 mins

We stayed at the Merchants House on Freeman Street in Wells-next-the-Sea. We had a meal with Robert and Mary in the Crab House Cafe opposite. Drinks were in the Albatross, a ship tied to the quay, where a range of Woodforde beers (tried the Nelson’s Revenge) were on gravity feed.

Sunday 10^th June 2012             Wells - Cromer

We got up early, far earlier than Jill had ever got up before on holiday. But I wanted another prompt start as I had my longest day in the entire trail ahead of me. I had the great advantage of taking out all but the day’s needs from my rucksack and it seemed unbelievably light as I said my goodbyes and set off along the harbour. It only took me a few miles to remember why my rucksack was so light. I had left my water bottle with its isotonic contents in the bedroom. So I texted Jill and asked her to follow me down the coast in the car and bring it to a rendezvous point. This we made at Blakeney and I put on the pace through the Stiffkey marshes, pausing only to watch a barn owl fly slowly by on its search for food in the long grass.

I was a few minutes later that my estimated arrival time and Jill was sitting on the side of the harbour enjoying our first sun and warmth. I bought her a cup of tea and demolished a cake myself and then pouched the water-bottle and set off on a long and semi-circular sea wall. An hour later this brought me round to Cley. Here I stopped in a general store and had a sandwich made for my lunch. This I packed away in my sack for later and got back onto the sea wall for the walk out to the beach. At this point the coast path and all signage disappeared. I asked the car park attendant for directions and he just pointed through the car-park. At its end, the only way forward was across loose shingle and the occasional patch of firmer grassland. Even this gave out eventually and I was forced up onto a shingle ridge which provided very slow and arduous going. The crux was a vast shingle beach with rollers crashing to my left. Then half way across this unforgiving terrain I stopped in amazement. There in front of me and totally unperturbed by my presence were three avocets walking slowing up the beach. My journey was complete. Or almost!

 But salvation lay ahead where rising ground took me onto firmer ground and then grass land and finally low cliffs. Passing a row of cottages on the edge of the cliffs, I came to a most splendid section of coastal walking, a sumptuous grass track along the cliff-tops. A steam train puffed by on the local railway and I lay for a few minutes in the sun eating my sandwiches and drinking my isotonic. Then it was all systems go to Cromer and I upped the pace for the section through Sheringham and then up Beacon Hill. I was fair flying now as I came down hill passed a superbly located caravan park/camp site and then through the woods in to Cromer. I headed straight for the pier and then rang Jill to see where she was waiting. Within minutes I was drinking cappuccino and eating Bakewell tart in the Rocket café and it was all over. Another national trail in the bag and now it was time to explore Norfolk with Jill and her relations and to sample some of its real ales.

Wells   dep. 08.14       Cromer arr. 16.00

24 miles in 7 hrs 20mins plus 25 mins for breaks.

We stayed once more at the Merchants House in Wells but this time went up to the Crown Hotel for a classily presented fish dish and the most supreme beer, Norfolk Kiwi (3.8%), from JoC, the brewer and wife of the hotel owner.

South of Scotland Way

27^th April – 1^st May 2012

Introduction

This had been intended to be the continuation of the annual walking trip that is taking Mike and me from Minehead to Cape Wrath via Land’s End over an epic 15 year period. At the very last minute, however, Mike pulled out with a virus that had totally debilitated him. I had the choice of rearranging everything for a later date or going it alone. I had put in so much work into planning a new route across the Scottish lowlands that I decided not to let it go to waste.

Friday 27^th April 2012                       Galashiels – Innerleithen

Jill took me down for the 6.22am train and the transport system worked perfectly. I even had time for a breakfast in Carlisle whilst I waited for the bus. This time I could not persuade the driver to take an English bus pass for to trip into Scotland. So I paid my money like every other Sassenach. Almost to the second of the scheduled time I was dropped in Galashiels bus station and I set off immediately, heading south out of the town to find the Southern Uplands Way. After weeks of rain in England, I was amazed at the Scottish sunshine. On the first set of hills I met Frank Loy from Sheffield brewing tea whilst keeping out of the biting wind behind a wall. He was doing the entire Southern Upland Way in one 12 day walk. Then a long grassy descent to Yair Bridge brought me to a short road section beside the Tweed. On the long climb up to the Three Brethren, I met my second walker of the day (the last of the entire trip), Dave Stokes who was on a north-south ‘end-to-end’ epic expecting to take three months or so. I agreed to try to meet up with him as he crossed Cheshire next month. There followed a fantastic high level traverse in beautiful sunshine over Minch Moor. The only pause was at a sculpture in heather called the Point of Resolution, where a hole in a wooden staff looked out over oval-shaped cuts in the heather covered plateau below.

A winding track led down to the road at Traquair. I looked for the brewery but failed to recognise it so I set off along the mile and a half of tarmac into Innerleithen calling in at the hotel as I passed to reserve my dining table. Then it was up to my b&b and a welcome cup of tea. After a shower, I returned to the hotel for a magnificent meal and then it was early to bed.

Galashiels   dep. 12.18  -  Innerleithen  arr. 17.25,    GPS: 14.89 miles in 5hrs-7.22min

Stayed at Glede Knowe Guest House, 16 Ronans Terrace, Innerleithen, EH44 6RB
Ate at the Traquair Arms Hotel, Fried Brie for starter and Duck for main course, with 2 pints of Traquair Bear (5%) a strong dark beer, the strongest they brew.

Saturday 28^th April 2012                   Innerleithen – Penicuik

In all my reading on the various routes that walkers had used to cross the central lowlands, nobody had ever suggested the traverse of the Moorfoot Hills. Yet it looked so enticing from the maps; and it would save a time consuming diversion via Peebles and would gain a day on the normal ‘end-to-end’ schedule. An early breakfast enabled me to get away before 9am and set off on the steep climb to Lee Pen of a cold crisp sunny morning, still with a biting east wind that got colder and stronger with height. The views back over Tweeddale were spectacular, made the more so by the amazingly dry weather (flood warnings were being issued for southern England). Although from below Lee Pen appears a separate mountain, once reached it turns out to be the termination of a huge featureless moor. Featureless is not the correct word because there is now the obligatory wind-farm to behold.

A long tramp beside a wall was on a good path and my confidence increased as to an easy passage over these hills. Suddenly however the path disappeared into a strip of mowed heather and dropped steeply into a deep ravine, Leithen Door, which I assume is the source of Leithen Burn. On the other side, the mowed strip disappeared and the heather became deep and untrampled so I crossed the wall onto the forestry side and scrambled up a narrow trod. Once I had crested Leithen Door Hill, the path opened up again and doubled as a mountain bike track for some of its progress towards Dunslair Heights. The final few yards are along a wide track and bikers were everywhere. This was one of the few points in the week where I experienced other folk using the hills.

After leaving the buildings and tower behind, the bikers track continued in the right direction downhill into a wide windbreak in the forest. It was at this point that my planned route started to cause concerns. I had noticed on the map that a track went off right into the forest but I never noticed  it nor was that worried about it. The wall that had been my faithful guide was still beside me even though the going was getting considerably rougher.

I got level with the top of Shieldgreen Kipps but was so determined to follow my trusty wall (now a fence) that I did not take the easier route over its summit. At the highest point I momentarily took the wrong wall and was on the point of dropping a needless 1000 ft into the wrong valley when I remembered Mike’s last instructions. So I sat still for a few moments, got out my compass and studied the map. Then I sheepishly got back to my feet and retraced my steps to the fence/wall junction. Mike would be proud of me! However my struggle was only just beginning. The correct wall led over some narrow outcrops with just a trace of a trod in the deep grass. It was a rollercoaster section which got harder and harder. And at just the point when I expected it to ease, as the forest was left behind on Cardon Law, it got considerably worse. Even beside my trusty fence I was floundering around in long tussocks and making very slow progress. I kept getting glimpses of the forest road in the trees to my right and was bitterly regretting no taking this all the way from Dunslair Heights.

Eventually I reached the open moor on Dundreich and again made a poor decision. Rather than heading for the summit to pick up any path, I compassed across the moor on a direct heading for Jeffries Corse. Not one of my better decisions on a day of some very poor ones. But all bad things come to an end and I finally hit the top fence and the traces of a trod. Then suddenly the view opened up and I was looking down into a wide valley and over to the Pentland Hills beyond. What a relief to be striding out again down the wet grassy slopes. I took the right-hand wall down to Gladhouse Cottage and Moorfoot, stopping briefly to take on some food and water. At the road I turned right and then left up a farm road through Toxside.  The track beyond the farm was straightforward enough but I was tempted by a short cut indicated on the map across a new plantation. This cost me half a mile and 15 minutes of going round in circles. But I eventually found my way back on the lane to Mount Lothian where a left turn was the prelude to a three mile walk along quite busy roads. But I could now make up for the slow crossing of the Moorfoots and was not far behind my three mile per hour target as I dropped down the last steep hill into Penicuik. The last piece of navigation for the day was to find the hotel which was up a suburban road on the far side of town, ideal for tomorrow but not that welcome extra distance after an extremely tough day.

Innerleithen  dep.  08.48 -   Penicuik  arr.  16.40:  21 miles in 7hrs 52 mins

Stayed at Craigiebield House Hotel, 50 Bog Road, Penicuik, Midlothian, EH26 9BZ  I ate at the hotel, battered haddock and chips followed by apple cake and ice cream. The only drinkable beer was John Smiths Golden, but I was desperate!


Sunday 29^th April 2012          Penicuik – Linlithgow

I had been looking to yesterday’s crossing of the Moorfoot Hills as being the new and exciting breakthrough in the missing links in the ‘end-to-end’ but it had disappointed. Now was the section that had I was not looking forward to and on which I had put in so much planning effort.  But whereas all plans and decisions yesterday could have been improved on, today's choices worked out just the opposite. It all went swimmingly well and the route proved a classic.

It did not start well. It was beginning to rain as I left the hotel. Were we to get the horrific weather that was hitting SW England? You might think so as put the rain-proofs over my rucksack as I turned onto a stream-side path straight out of the hotel and then got lost in a housing estate. I was rescued by a charming young lady out for her long run, training for next month’s Edinburgh marathon. She directed me up a cul-de-sac and then through a woodland towards Coates and the open fell. There were more runners on the A702 and then came a very wet crossing onto the Pentland Hills. I had originally planned a high crossing of these fells but by the time I reached the pass below Scald Law, it was snowing hard. A few runners were risking the slog up to the top but it was not the day for this and 24 miles as well. So I dropped steeply into the Hare and then on through a delightful glacial valley winding beside a river through the remainder of the hills. This finally brought me out onto a flat grass plateau at Bavelaw Castle. A stile took me into a tree-lined avenue that passed by the house and led round to the left and over an indistinct field track to Bavelaw Mill Farm. My route then took me up the farm drive and onto a quiet lane used by a string of runners for their Sunday runs.

I had thought hard and long about the next section. In an attempt to avoid a long road walk, I decided to cut through a farm and hamlet at Cockburn. Then left onto a road that took me up to the A70. I could have gone straight across towards Kaimes Hill but a better route seemed to be to walk south west down the A70 for 250 yards and then turn right at Boll-o-Bere and along a well-defined track which led out into a field system. Across the other side, a track was picked up again and this took me almost to Easter Newton before I saw a stile adjacent to a gate on the left leading into the parkland of Kirknewton House. Grassy paths then traversed the park and came out in front of the hall where I emerged onto the B7031. I crossed the road and tried a farm track that led Overton Farm. Here I had an opportunity to take a field path that was marked on the map but I could see no sign of this path on the ground nor any stiles in the walls so I continued to the main road and walked along the pavement passed the station and onwards to a very busy junction.

Immediately after this junction, my chosen route turned onto an old dismantled railway. This proved to be an absolute gem of a section, almost 5 miles of good quality track going northwards towards my target, through pleasant semi-industrial countryside. It finally dropped me in the centre of Uphall where my next experiment began. An article in the New Scotsman (11/04/08) described as the walk of the week a route from Uphall to Linlithgow over Binny Craig. I followed this easily with the aid of the map and soon found the farm track out of Uphall that took me to new footbridge and then over a road onto the steep-side grassy lump. A wonderful set of steps cut into a granite cliff gave me access to the final steep grassy slope. The views from the summit were stupendous, with the Forth Bridge and the whole river layout out below. Then a reverse of the grass and a traverse of a horse-filled field took me onto a footpath linking the agricultural college with Longmuir Plantation.

A long ride passed a paintball enclosure and on through the plantation and then brought me out into the fields of the Riccarton Hills, hardly any more than a few grassy bumps. Crossing the road at the end, I tried to find a path through Beescraig Wood but the storms of the previous January had brought down so many trees that I had to break out again onto the road than ran north to the visitor centre. There was latterly a path parallel to the road which kept me off tarmac. The drop to Hiltly was blocked by a huge tree that had fallen across a stile at the top of the steep drop. But this was by-passed with care and I eventually reached the lane that led into Linthigow. This lane took me to the top of Strawberry Bank and my digs for the evening.

Penicuik   dep.  08.45  -   Linlithgow   arr.  16.45,  24 miles in 7hrs 50mins.

I stayed at Strawberry Bank House, 13 Avon Place, Linlithgow, EH49 6BL 
Rachel, Charlotte and Peter arrived just after I had finished showering. It was great to see them all after three days on my own. We went down to the Four Marys where I had steak & ale pie followed by apple lattice and ice cream (real puddings were not the feature of this trip!). The beer was remarkably good, Edinburgh Gold from Stewart. Then Rachel gave the kids a shower before they left me to drive back to Ayrshire. I was so entranced with Linlithgow that I went back into town as the sun set and walked round the palace and its loch. I celebrated with a pint of Freoach Heather Ale in the Four Marys and got a much later night that I had intended.


Monday 30^th April 2012         Linlithgow – Kilsyth

This was what the Scots call a ‘dreich day’. Grey and overcast with clag on the hills, rain in the air, and very very cold. There was no hurry today, it promised to be an easy trek along the towpath all the way. So I got a leisurely start and wore my Teva sandals not, it turned out to be, a good idea. I kept up my record of starting every day before 9am but only just. The early part of the canal was a delight with narrow winding sections along tree lined cuttings with birds singing and herons sitting on every bank. I was soon round to Falkirk and was about to come off and divert through the town centre just for a break in the monotony. However I local man told me to carry on to a supermarket beside the towpath. I was well passed the turnoff when I realised the supermarket was Tesco’s and the café look dreary. As part of a family who have signed up to 'say no to Tesco’ I was reluctant to stop so I carried on and on down the canal which was now far less rural. I did manage a short diversion through the town to miss the long tunnel. Then I had difficulty locating the canal on the far side but I eventually tramped down to the locks and turned sharp right through another canal tunnel. This time the exit was spectacular. I came out of the tunnel onto a long concrete viaduct which suddenly came to an end at the Falkirk Wheel. I dropped down the slope beside the wheel and was delighted to find a visitors centre and café. So I was able to drink a cappuccino and eat a slice of cake as I watched the Wheel in action with a canal boat coming down to the lower level on an amazing piece of engineering. It was by far the highlight of the day.

Refreshed I set out along the Forth and Clyde Canal which was wide open and lacking any interest. At one point I thought I saw a pub ahead but this turned out to be a mirage, or rather a restaurant. The last 3 miles were in a dead straight line, a disheartening end to the walk. I left the canal at the earliest opportunity and entered Kilsyth via a series of narrow but busy lanes. Navigation through the town centre proved a problem but I found that the b&b was sign posted with a brown sign. The last half mile up to the farm was seriously uphill the more so since I had been on a towpath all day. It turned out to be a longer day than I had expected and my feet had blistered in the sandal. But after a cup of tea, a shower and needles in the feet, I was able to stagger back into town for a meal and a drink.

Linlithgow   dep. 08.58  -  Falkirk Wheel (lunch)  12.55 – 13.30  -  Kilsyth  arr. 16.50, 22 miles in 7hrs 20 mins + 30 mins for lunch.

I stayed at Allanfauld Farm, Allanfauld Road, Kilsyth, G65 9DF. The meal was at the Coachman Hotel where I had haggis and black pudding fritters to start and fish and chips as an encore. The beer however was once again John Smith’s.

Back at the farm, Libby showed me the names and mailings from other ‘end-to-enders’who had stayed there and introduced me to the book by Carole Loader who ran the whole route and also stayed with them. I bought this book when I got home.


Tuesday 1^st May 2012                        Kilsyth  -  Dumgoyne

I was down before breakfast before 8am encouraged by the sunshine and the clear hill tops. The previous day I had abandoned the idea of crossing the Campsie Fells and had been preparing for another day of boredom on the canal towpath. But, lo and behold, the great God of walking was smiling on me. So in the morning brightness I said my goodbye to Libby and set off up the hillside towards the Kilsyth Hills. Archie was in the bottom fields and came over to help my route choice. He advised me to head straight up for Laird’s Hill and then go west to pick up the reservoir road. This crossing was pathless but quite walkable except for a boggy section just before the road. I was able to make good time along the track which eventually dropped down to Birkenburn Reservoir. I chose to by-pass this on its south side and the going suddenly got a lot slower. A tussocky section led up from water’s end and headed onto a featureless plateau of colourless grass. It was difficult to distinguish a high point to Lecket Hill but I headed left to pick up a track that came over from Cort-ma Law. A great track then descended gradually to the road.

The hillside opposite, on the Campsie Fells, looked heather-free so I ascended the road only very briefly before climbing the new barbed-wire fence and headed straight up through the new plantations. I thought it a good idea to miss out the first summit and head straight for Hart Hill using Alvain Burn as my route finder. However it was almost impassable at the top of the valley and across the plateau. So I headed for a fence that I could just see on the top of the ridge and found just the traces of a trod. But very faint. Nobody seems to walk the Campsie Fells. I staggered along the fence picking up any slight vestige of a path where I could and, after what seemed an age dropped down steeply into Fin Glen. Again I took a straight line rather than head for the tops. So I tramped over more rough ground heading for the col between Earl’s Seat and Little Earl.  Once across the top fence the navigation became very complex even in the bright sunshine. This is not the place to be in mist. A long slow slog across a boggy wilderness brought me to the final edge of the Campsies near Garlock Hill. A track at last, the first for several hours then took me down and round to the impressive pinnacle of Dumgoyne. Suddenly the view opened up and I could see Loch Lomond and the mountains of the Highland behind. That one moment made all the effort in the traverse of the Campsie Fells worthwhile. Then a final steep grassy slope dropped me down directly into the Dumgoyne Distillery. My bus timetable told me a bus may just have gone but, after a ten minute wait, it came in late and I was able to jump on and get a ride to the station at Milngavie. A train was waiting to leave and I was soon on the way home, another tough section of the end-to-end route behind me.

Kilsyth  dep.  08.40  -  Dumgoyne   arr. 14.50,   GPS 14.34 miles in 5hrs 57.55 mins (+ 10 min break).

I caught the bus almost straight away to Milngavie Station and was in Glasgow so early that I had time to wash and change, have a coffee and cake and then eat a plate of fish and chips (and Deuchars IPA) before boarding my train home. The connection in Preston was a close shave but there were no more scares and I was home bang on schedule. I was glad that Jill was there to pick me up from the station. A long walk home at this late hour would have been a step too far.