Kintyre Way

20th-25th July 2008

Introduction

The logistics for this walk were quite complex, especially as a Sunday start meant that there was no bus connection from Cloanaig ferry to Tarbert. After a day or two of studying maps, accommodation lists and bus timetables the answer came to me. We would walk south directly from the ferry until we reached Southend, then get the bus back to Tarbert and walk back to Clonaig at the end of the trip. This would give us a continuous journey in the same direction but doing the first 11 miles last.

With this solution arrived at, the rest of the planning fell into place. A Sunday morning trip over to Arran and Clonaig would allow us time for a 10 mile afternoon walk to Clachan and the Old Smithy B&B. Then three big days to Southend before buses back to Campbeltown and Tarbert. An added bonus was that we could stay two nights in Campbeltown and do the last big day without rucksacks.

John was keen to take a walking holiday with me after his successful trip down the Cornish Coast. I wanted to get up to Scotland again particularly to see Rachel, Johnny and my granddaughter Charlotte. So the Kintyre Way was an ideal route enabling us to use Rachel’s house in Ayr as a base. So we drove up to Scotland on Saturday afternoon and spend a lovely evening with the family.

Sunday 20th July 2008: Ferries Galore

Claonaig, dep. 12.35
Clachan, arr. 16.00

Rachel prepared us a big breakfast to see us through the day. Then she handed us a huge slab of Battenberg cake and we loaded up the car for the drive up to Ardrossan and the 9.45am ferry to Brodick. We were there in good time, said our farewells and were soon comfortably on-board ready for the windy crossing. At Brodick the entire boat seemed to want to get on the Lochranza bus. Eventually some were reallocated to another bus and we were off across Arran on the bumpiest ride of our lives. The ferries were easy compared with the horrendous descent down the narrow glen. The mid-day Kintyre ferry was only a few minutes late and we stood on the gale-swept deck, watching Kintyre get nearer, crouched behind a funnel for some shelter.

At last, after a full 24 hours since leaving home, we were ready for our first steps. These were on tarmac but, after 1.5 miles, we turned away from the coast road and up a plantation track. The guide book described this as an extremely boggy section and so it must have been before a path had been laid, like a red ribbon, across the moor. We leapt a stream, later hearing that the landowner had had it removed. (So much for the tourist industry). Only one section of raised path had not been completed, a 150m metres of misery. It would have taken an age to cross this section without the new path. Just when we thought that we would get away with dry feet, the last mile plunged us back into more mud and bog, both of us falling in the mire.

However we were soon out onto the main A83 and round into the tiny hamlet of Clachan. Our B&B was a delight. The owner had originated from Newquay and knew John’s Cornish cousin. The only option for a meal was the Balinakill Country House Hotel. This was rather expensive but beautifully cooked and presented. I was delighted that they were able to provide a bottle of Pipers Gold, a local real ale. John went missing during the payment of the bill and I found him chatting up the waitress. I then left my pullover in the dining room and had to dash back to see her again. A good start to the trip.

We stayed at the Old Smithy, Clachan, Tarbert, Argyll, PA29 6XL.

Total distance (GPS), 10.51 miles
Moving time, 3hrs 11.48m
Average speed, 3.2 mph, Average pace, 18m 41s per ml
Total ascent, 1050 ft. Total descent, 1045 ft

Monday 21st July 2008; Wind Farms and Highland Cattle

Clachan, dep. 08.11
Carradale, arr. 16.30

This was a wonderful morning. The weekend’s winds had died down, the skies were blue and the air was cool and clear. An early breakfast enabled us to be out of the village for 8.15am. The first four miles were on the A83. The guidebook recommended several excursions into the scrub between the road and the beach but this was so overgrown and pointless that we stayed on the road all the way up to where it veers inland. At this point we took to the shingle beach and hacked our way towards Rhunahaorine Point. We eventually got fed up with this and took the opportunity of shinning up a low cliff and onto the edge of grassy fields. This took us more quickly round the Point (which is now fenced off as a Little Tern colony). A World War II lookout was the site of our first rest of the day overlooking the Isle of Gigha.

On through a caravan site and past a family of 21 ducks, we were then back on the shore round some featureless points. This brought us out at the aptly name Ferry Farm, next to the Gigha ferry pier. A half-mile road section took us inland to the village of Tayinloan and an ice-cream in the store. The lad who served us told us that the next loop back to the shore was another pointless exercise. A brief march down the A83 was what most people seemed to prefer. It probably saved half a mile at most and soon had us off the rather flat and featureless coast and climbing up onto the hills once more. The views back over Gigha and Islay were spectacular.

Then followed a long section of forest track, 10 miles in all across to the east side of Kintyre. The heat and dust and lack of shade made it worse. It was being used as a short cut by some quite heavy vehicles that left us in a cloud of horrible red dust. It was like hiking through Africa. The only difference was that the animals were highland cattle and the crest of the hills was covered by a nine-turbine wind-farm. These monsters could be seen for miles and never seemed to get any nearer as we marched up our dusty road. Eventually we started to see Arran and begin our descent, which was so steep in places that the track was tarmac. Just before we hit the road, we diverted through a farmyard to visit a cemetery which contained a 3000 year old burial chamber alongside the modern incumbents.

A short section of road took us to our last challenge of the day, another big climb over a ridge and down into Carradale. It should have been down but, with the village tantalisingly close below us, we face a ‘path closed’ sign and a diversion along Deer Hill and down through the forest on the far side of the village. As it was, this was perfect for our B&B which was out near the Glen Restaurant. We were glad of a cool shower and a chance to rest before catching the last bus into Carradale (6.05pm) for a look round the village and its ruined castle and a meal in the hotel. However another mile was added to our day’s total as we slowly trudged home for an early night. We stayed at Kiloran Guest House, Carradale, Campbeltown, Argyll, PA29 6QG. We ate at the Carradale Hotel. I enjoyed a huge plate of fish and chips and some Boddingtons Bitter. This time John found a Lithuania waitress to chat up.

Total distance (GPS), 24.00 miles
Moving time, 7 hrs 48.14
Average speed, 3.0 mph. Average pace, 19m 30s per ml
Total ascent, 2720 ft. Total descent, 2743 ft

Tuesday 22nd July 2008; It Rained and it Rained and it Rained

Carradale, dep. 08.45
Campbeltown, arr. 15.00

It was raining when we woke, it was drizzling as we set off and it got progressively worse all day on the higher sections which were in cloud. So we saw no views today, nothing but a curtain of drizzle. What made it more annoying was that we were to learn later that Aberdeen was the warmest sunniest place in the UK. Summer had started everywhere but Kintyre. Our landlady looked amazed as we put up our umbrellas and marched off down the road. We ignored the short loop down to the sea shore. Today was not a day for scrambling over shingle and wet rocks. Our only excursion off the road was to see Torrisdale Castle. We went up to the gatehouse which stands maybe half a mile off route. Then is was road all the way to Saddell with its ruined castle near the bridge and then a magnificent old abbey ruin set in a glorious little wooded glen. It was a beautifully managed site with a small but informative visitor shelter that contains some old carvings from the Saddell School. All it needs is a tea shop.

So, unrefreshed, we set off into the hills and into the mist. I am sure that it must have been a wonderful crossing for moorland scenery but we saw nothing except a grader and roller working on the wide forest trail. The huge Lussa Loch was just below cloud level but we were under our umbrellas fighting off the flies and we strode beside it. Eventually the track became tarmac and a long section of undulating road then led us down to the A83 and Campbeltown. Our hotel was right on this road so was easy to find. We were allocated to a tiny room in the annex with nowhere to hang our wet clothes. However they did put the worst of our gear through the hotel tumbler drier.

We had made good time so that we could have a look round town but the rain was still falling after we had showered and changed. So we were still under our umbrellas for our exploratory walk round the harbour to the tourist information office. We bought some postcards and then went into a coffee shop to write them. Back to the hotel for a rest before we returned to a very quiet pub that had to get staff from their home to cook us a meal. We both had lamb which was very welcome after such a miserable day.

As we walked back to the hotel, it began raining again. We were staying at the Dellwood Hotel, Drumore, Campbeltown, Argyll, PA 28 6HD.

Total distance (GPS), 18.92 miles
Moving time, 5hrs 50.11
Average speed, 3.2 mph. Average pace, 18m 30s per ml
Total ascent, 2420 ft. Total descent, 2456 ft


Wednesday 23rd July 2008; Southend on Sea?

Campbeltown, dep. 08.15
Dunaverty Bay, arr. 16.00

The weather looked more settled on the following morning, yet the hilltops were still not clear of cloud. However, we breakfasted early and were on the road by 8.15am, this time with very light sacks. We would return to this hotel in the evening and had left our wet kit to dry in the room. Our route took us back through town and out on a busy road to the west. After a couple of miles the pavement came to an end and we then took to the main road facing the fast moving traffic. A lady cyclist wearing a high via jacket stopped us to suggest that John with his white T-shirt should walk at the front. It was not particularly sunny and a breeze kept us cool as we marched our way passed the airport and on to Machrihanish, but the section was boring and featureless. It was a relief to eventually get into the small town with its large houses overlooking the sea and golf course. We sat for a few moments on a bench above a small beach watching the cormorants sitting on a rock. Then it was on up the road to Ballygroggan Farm., where I changed from my sandals into my walking shoes.

On a sunny day the next 10 miles must be on of the most spectacular on the entire walk. It was tempered today by low cloud that refused to clear. Leaving Ballygroggan we quickly climbed up onto a boggy moor and into a thick clag. It was difficult to see from one guide post to the next and there were points when the route became difficult to find. Eventually however we came down out of the mist into Innean Glen and we could see the sailor’s grave below us on the beach. The route does not descend to the sea. In fact it turns rapidly uphill and contours along an exposed grassy cliff-face. After what seemed an age, the line of posts turned up the hill; this we missed because there was no trod up the steep slope. I scrambled up through the bracken and got back on line and back into mist. We were well into the nature reserve and should have been looking out for eagles and peregrines. Instead we were in thick mist, grovelling about on a featureless hill.

A very steep drop took us out of the cloud and into a stretch of moorlands and plantations. The pathways were soft and grassy and navigation became easy again. So we stopped for a quick food halt and then set off downhill thinking our route problems were behind us. However there was still a sting in the tail. We were suddenly directed off the track and onto wild moor; a trod was just about discernable in the long wet rushes. A long contour, then a sharp climb took us up onto a high ridge where views must have been good on a clear day. We could just about see the valley below and after a roller coaster of a traverse, we started down off the fells. Just as we could almost touch the road however, a sharp detour inland took us around a land-holding (another problematic landowner, perhaps) and back to Amod Farm. Here a track crossed the river and led us back onto the road. All that stood between us and the end was a five mile road walk. It was obvious from the GPS readings that the estimated distance for the day in the guide book was an underestimate so we decided to throttle back and not go for the early bus. We trooped slowly into Keil, dropped in to see St Columba’s footprint, climbed into a cemetery and ended up paddling down Dunaverty Beach. This enabled me to cool my feet and get my sandals back on for the crossing of the golf course up the terminal point of the Kintyre Way, Southend. It was rather different from the other Southend that I have been to. But it had a lovely tea-shop and we stopped for a piece of chocolate cake. Then it was on through the village to the pub where we had a couple of pints whilst waiting for the later bus. I talked birds with a local bird-ringer whilst John practiced his own bird catching skills with the local bar-maid. I finally got him onto the bus back to Campbeltown. On reaching the bus stand by the harbour, John then chatted up the driver who took us most of the way back to the hotel. So we were soon showered and refreshed for the walk to the White Hart for a splendid meal of steak pie, chocolate fudge cake and John Smiths beer. Oh for a pint of real ale!

Total distance (GPS), 23.05 miles
Moving time, 7hrs 51.24
Average speed, 2.9 mph. Average pace, 20m 32s per ml
Total ascent, 3069 ft. Total descent, 2971 ft


Thursday 24th July 2008, The First Shall be Last

Tarbert, dep. 13.15
Claonaig, arr. 17.20

The weather map shows that it is lovely outside, said John watching morning TV. This did not match with the sound of rain bouncing off the window. The forecast never applies to us here in Campbeltown, said the waitress at breakfast, even the local one. However it was beginning to take effect as we had a long slow start to the day. Our bus was not until 11.05am so we had a couple of hours to look round the town. We asked at the tourist office about the Heritage Centre but that did not open until late. The owl centre only opens in the afternoons. This left us with one possible visit, to the library museum. This turned out to be surprisingly interesting, tying up many things we had seen during the last few days, from ancient history (archaeological findings from hill forts and burial chamber) to more modern carvings from Saddell. Lots of stuffed birds and shore creatures were beautifully displayed. And to cap it all, one of the McTaggert paintings was a seascape of the same rock that we had seen yesterday at our stop at Machrihanish. After a long chat with the curator we had a quick look at the Linda McCartney garden and statue and then went round to the bus stand.

The Glasgow bus left spot on time and proceeded steadily up the coast passed many of the places we had been through during our walk so far. A delay at Kinnacraig to wait for the Islay ferry and then to fill the bus with its passengers, meant that we were late getting into Tarbert. By now the weather was beautiful. The town looked an absolute picture, by far the nicest place we had seen in Kintyre. We had our photograph taken at the northern terminal of the Kintyre Way and then set off up to the Castle. This is on a magnificently site overlooking the town and its loch. More chatting with strange women delayed us even further so by the time we resumed our walk, it was quite late and the schedule for catching the afternoon ferry from Claonaig would be tough to maintain. The initial path out of Tarbert was a delight, especially as we were getting our first views for some days. Soon Bute was visible ahead and Arran was peeping round the corner. The route took a rather boring forest path before taking to a rather boggy crossing of open moorland. This slowed us down to such an estent that we abandoned our plans for the early ferry and settled for a late arrival at our B&B. This enabled us to enjoy the grassy descent to Shipness, one on the most magnificent parts of the entire route. On reaching the road, lo and behold, there was a tea shop. We had mugs of tea and home-made cake sitting on a sandy beach looking out over Arran. We felt our efforts of the week had been rewarded and we had entered paradise. Only two miles of road separated us from our ferry and the end of our walk. We watched it plying across the straits as we plodded along the tarmac. I changed out of my walking shoes and then left them on the beach as we got on the ferry. John stood on the ramp as I ran back to rescue them, telling the ferryman that I had the tickets so they had to wait.

We were very soon in Lochranza and in one of the nicest spots I know. We stayed in Castlekirk, Lochranza, Isle of Arran, KA27 8HL. This had been a consecrated chapel as recently as 1979. There is a spectacular view of the ruined castle, on its low point of land overlooking the harbour, from a rose window high in the old church wall.

We dined at the Lochranza Hotel, sitting out in the gardens overlooking the bay. I had a steak and ale pie and downed some bottles of the local brew, Arran Blonde.

Total distance (GPS), 11.30 miles
Moving time, 3hrs 51.31
Average speed, 2.9 mph. Average pace, 20m 37s per ml
Total ascent, 1459 ft. Total descent, 1514 ft


Friday 25th July 2008, A Taste of the Arran Coastway

Lochranza, dep. 08.45
Sannox, arr. 13.00

Lochranza on a sunny morning; is there a more perfect spot to be? We had decided that, for our last day, we would walk back to Brodick, following the coastway. We were too tired to consider an ascent of Goat Fell so a shore line walk was our objective. The route went round the bay on a road giving superb views back over the castle. Then an easy section on grass led us to a remote cottage. Then the shore got more complex around the Cock of Arran with rocks right down to sea level. The path climbed above these and the going was very slow. Eventually it eased again and a grassy raised beach led to Laggen Cottage. From there the coast path was flat and well defined and, after a brief rest, we were through the rock fall and onto a made-up path. This led to a river which was crossed on some slippery stepping stones. After another mile there was a bigger river to cross and we had to head a few yards inland to cross on huge concrete stepping platforms. This brought us right back to the road at Sannox.

We were now faced with an 8 mile road walk. However a glance at the bus timetable showed us that a bus was due in 10 minutes. It was hot, we were tired, and so the decision was unanimous. Within minutes we were on the bus gliding back to Brodick and the ferry. This got us on an earlier ferry than planned but Rachel was able to come up to Ardrossan to pick us up. Much earlier than expected we were showering in Ayr and being looked after by family. Just time to introduce John to the delights of the West Kirk which is now a pub, then it was time for a good meal, too much to drink and a good nights sleep before the drive back to England on the morrow.
Total distance (Estimate), 10.00 miles
Moving time (Total), 4hrs