Southern Upland Way (Part 1)

Portpatrick – Sanquhar    10^th – 14^th June 2019

Introduction

Mike and I have now been enjoying our annual springtime walk for at least 25 years. With LEJOG well and truly finished, Mike offered to accompany me on my quest to walk the national trails. The Scottish Borders have always provide us with some wonderful walking so it was time to tackle the longest and possibly most challenging of all the Scottish walks, the Southern Upland Way. Planning a five day expedition proved more problematic than I expected, with complex transport issues and restricted accommodation and eating opportunities. In the end we decided to take a car to Dumfries and abandon it for five days. This gave us the flexibility we need to get to the start and from the finish point. The availability of the b&b’s and hotels decided the dates.

Monday 10^th June 2019                    Portpatrick – Knockquhassen

Crowning a Late Start

Mike’s wife drove him over to Macclesfield so we could set off in good time for a lunchtime bus from Dumfries. We had a very bad start when, whilst searching for a space in Whitesands car park, a guy in a Chelsea tractor backed into my beloved Insignia and put his tow bar through the passenger door. I was distraught as we locked up the damaged car and waited for our bus. I had a long time to calm down, the bus to Stranraer taking over two and a half hours. We had 15 minutes to wait for the local bus to Portpatrick and, by 5pm, we were standing on the sea front, blinking at the white-walled houses around the harbour in the evening sunshine. Before we set off walking, we had a meal at the Crown Hotel, Portpatrick. No evening meal was available at our b&b so we had to stoke up whilst we could. I had cod & chips followed by apple pie & custard. The beer was exceptional, Fog Horn (4.6%) from Portpatrick Brewery. This proved the best beer of the week.

By 6.30pm we were fully refreshed so we took our start-of-walk photographs and set off up the cliff steps passed an imposing hotel. All that height was then lost as the path descended steeply down to sea-level over some awkward and slippery rocks. We missed the correct exit from the beach and found ourselves above the cliff-top path. But we traversed rough ground and were soon back on-route and heading for the lighthouse on Black Head. There were several miles of road-walking along the lighthouse access road and passed Knock & Maize. Grass in the surrounding fields was being cut in the late evening sunshine. It was a shock to hear about the appalling weather back home with torrential rain and floods in Cheshire. Eventually the route took to tracks and paths which lead out across Broad Moor. Some very boggy sections resulted in wet feet rather earlier in the walk than we expected. As we came off the moor, the b&b was immediately in front of us. In the last of the light, we stood in the beautifully-situated breakfast room and watched a barn owl coming in and out of its barn-based owl box.

Portpatrick dep. 18.32, Knockquhassen arr. 21.08

GPS 7.02 miles in 2hrs 44mins 30secs

We stayed at Knockquhassen Farm

Tuesday 11^th June 2019                Knockquhassen – New Luke

Ferreting Round a Castle

We were in no hurry today with a flattish route in prospect and early sunshine. The first three miles or so were on quiet lanes and then a short woodland path took us into a housing estate at Castle Kennedy. Butties were purchased at the service station on the A75 and then we were in the tree-lined drive leading up to Castle Kennedy Gardens. Superb views were to be had of Lochinch Castle over the White Loch. Turning into the car park, we found we could get access to the tea room without entering the gardens. A scone cream tea gave us the energy to continue on to the more hilly part of the day, but as we passed back through the car park we were distracted for a few minutes by a lady taking two ferrets, on leads, for a walk. Then we began the ascent past Chlenry up over a high moor and onto a mountain road.

Not far along the tarmac, the route turned right along a forestry track and then left beside a wall on a grassy path along the northern edge of the plantation. A cuckoo was in full voice in the nearby trees and then, joy of joys, there just ahead flew a pair of the large grey birds. At the eastern end of this section the path turned into a pine forest and dropped steeply to a railway line. Here it turned parallel to the railway track on a very indistinct trod, stepping over windblown trees as we went. Then we crossed the railway on a narrow footbridge and descended to the Water of Luce which again we crossed by footbridge. A steep bank then led up to a lane near Cruise where we stopped for a short refreshment break.

We were now faced with a decision. We could drop straight into the village of New Luce or we could take the high loop round to the far side and then cut back to the village. As time was on our side we took the longer option and got the climbing out of the way and reduce some of tomorrow’s mileage. It worked out superbly with a lovely straight grassy track across the moor to Kilhern where a left turn led down beside a small plantation and onto the lane. We were outside Rainbows End in New Luce by 5pm, the time I had arranged with our landlady. We waited at the gate as instructed so that we could meet the Great Dane before we entered the house. It was bigger than me so I was taking no chances. It sat slobbering behind me all through the meal. Mike went for a stroll through the village on this very pleasant evening. Then we rang home to hear of more rain and floods in England.

Knockquhassen dep. 09.34, New Luce arr. 17.00 

GPS 17.82 miles in 6hrs 29 mins 52 secs walking with 30 mins (12.15- 12.45) with a cappuccino and scones, jam & cream in the tea rooms at Castle Kennedy and a 15 mins break (15.15-15.30) near Cruise.

We stayed with Celia and her Great Dane at Rainbows End in New Luce. She cooked us a wonderful meal of roast pork, potatoes & red cabbage with banana loaf and crème fraiche for a dessert.

Wednesday 12^th June 2019   New Luce – Bargrennan

Tilting at Windmills

We retraced our steps the next morning and, by 9.00am, we were heading up the lane towards the wind turbines. Just beyond Balmurrie, the route deviates from the original straight line.  We were directed left up a track and then right over a trackless hillside, trying desperately to locate the SUW marker posts. In misty conditions this may be a real concern. It was difficult enough on a clear cool morning. But after a few false forages, we crested the moor and a huge wind farm and forestry plantation opened up in front of us. Initially the path through a forest was grassy and pleasant but then it turned into a stony rubble track. We could only think that the excess waste from the wind farm foundations had been spread on our path by way of disposal. Whatever, it made for very unpleasant walking. We stopped briefly at the Beehive Bothy for a few nibbles and a drink of water and then again at the Laggangarn Standing Stones for some photographs. Then it was back to more uncomfortable rubble-topped trails that contoured the hillside beneath the new generators. It was a relief to shin up through the woodland and onto the summit of Craig Airie Fell which, at just over 1000ft, gave us great views of the surrounding countryside.

Then it was down, down all the way on paths and forest track to Derry where the route became a tarmac lane which after two miles or so came out onto a road near Knowe. Here a lady called from a cottage window, asking us if we needed anything. But we declined her kind offer and pressed on over another ill-defined section of rough ground before emerging onto a lane near Glenruther Lodge. A plod up this lane took us passed a farm and onto a pathless hillside, once more following SUW posts where visible. It seemed a long way at the end of a long day across Glenvernoch Fell and down passed woodland plantations to the road at Garchew. Here a group of farmers were gathering their flocks of sheep for dipping or shearing. The last mile of the day was across featureless rough pasture following guideposts that were hard to spot. We finally dropped down to a road, busy by Galloway standards, and crossed the river bridge and slowly climbed up to the House O’Hill Hotel at Bargrennan. The room was stuffy and you could not open the windows for fear of a midge invasion. But we were made most welcome in the bar. It was still raining back home.

New Luce  dep. 08.48, Bargrennan  arr.16.40

GPS 19.34 in 7hrs 24mins 30secs walking time with a short break at the Beehive Bothy.

We stayed in the House O’Hill Hotel, Bargrennan. I ate chicken curry & rice followed by  sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. The beer was Bright Idea (3.8%) from Five Kingdoms  Brewery on the Isle of Whithorn.

Thursday 13^th June 2019                  Bargrennan – Dalry
Midges Galore

We asked for an early breakfast as it was going to be a long day. Other walkers last night had pointed out that today’s route was considerably longer than indicated in the guidebook, and that was long enough. Soon after 8.30am we were out into the midges on a warm and clammy morning, but amazingly still no rain. Returning to the river bridge, we picked up the waymarked route though woodland on a narrow path that followed the river. After almost two miles of heading south, the path turned eastwards to pick up the Water of Trool. Thence we were heading in the right direction. A long section beside the river, crossing it a one point, led on good quality paths through woodland and water meadows. As we neared the loch, we came across a cark park which explained where all the dog walkers came from. Then the path began to climb.

Up and down we went, still in woodland but totally hidden from the river and loch. Then suddenly we descended sharply and there was Loch Trool in all its glory. The path then ran on a high shelf along the south side of the loch, passing an information board describing the details of the Battle of Loch Trool. At the end of the loch, we were faced with a steep climb up to a magnificent viewpoint. We stopped for our morning break and then dropped down to the house at Glenhead. Here we became confused. The guidebook and maps showed that the SUW crosses the river and climbs pathless hillsides to gain the top of the pass. However all the way-marking indicated that we were to stay on the main track. It seemed a long haul to the top of Glenhead Burn but a fabulous view unfolded as we crest the pass. Loch Dee with its sandy beaches, gleaming in the sunshine, was a lovely sight. The wide track wound round its shore, passing at one point White Laggan Bothy lying several hundred meters back from the loch in a gap in the trees. Crossing the upper reaches of the River Dee, the track continued through clear-felled country to reach Clatteringshaws Loch where we sat on a high rock and had a bite to eat. The midges descended on us and started easting me alive. It was several weeks before my legs fully recovered. This curtailed our rest and drove us onwards into the last section of the day.

From a pickup point on a quiet lane, we found ourselves in rough country, passing along the edge of thick pine plantations and climbing up narrow rides through the trees. Emerging onto an open moor, the route was inadequately waymarked and it was more by good luck than judgement that we found ourselves still on line on the descent to the remote farm at Clenrie. Then it was farm tracks and tarmac for more than 3 miles before we came to the sting in the tail. The route left the road along a walled path beside a stream, crossed the stream over a wooden footbridge, and then proceeded through flooded water meadows where we might as well have been in the stream. With wet feet, we were faced with a steep scramble up Waterside Hill from the summit of which our first view of Dalry was to be had. It was a magnificent grassy descent in the sunshine and then a delightful riverside path into town with the church high up on the far bank. A sturdy modern footbridge took us across the Water of Ken and into town. Our pub was almost the first building we came to. When we rang home, our folks, battling storms and torrential rain, could not believe our luck with the weather.

Bargrennan dep. 08.35, Dalry arr. 19.01

GPS 26.29 miles in 10hrs 04mins 43secs walking time with 10min breaks at Glenhead and Clatteringshaws. Note that the day’s mileage is two miles further than the distance given in the guidebook and websites. The official mileage must be based on the short option through Glentrool Village.

We stayed at the Clachan Inn, Dalry. I had pork belly followed by sticky toffee pudding & ice cream. My first pint was Yellowhammer (4.0%) from Black Isle Brewery. Then it was Scaur O’ Doon (3.6%) from my old friends at Ayr Brewing Co.

Friday 14^th June 2019                       Daldry – Sanquhar

High Point of the Week

Today was to be even longer than yesterday so we breakfasted as soon as we could and got an early start, pausing only to buy a sandwich from the petrol station before heading up the main street, onward up a long track and out onto the moor. We struggled to get the right line across to Ardoch Farm but then had the plantation boundary to guide us around Ardoch Hill, where an awkward diversion through some new fences had to be negotiated. Then came another featureless section, navigating from post to post to find the correct line. The compass was consulted several times before we picked up the line of a road to our right.  This led us onto a wide track that took us to Butterhole Bridge and the junction with the path from the youth hostel.

It was another lovely morning with just the odd dark cloud carrying a threat of rain. As we crested Culmark Hill, views to the north and west opened up revealing a range of hills the existence of which we had been entirely unaware. It was more like orienteering than long distance walking but we eventually spotted Culmark Farm below us and navigation got more straight-forward. The road at Stroanpatrick is another of the pickup points should a shorter day be required. But we were going the whole way so another moorland section had to be tackled. The correct line became clearer as the forest came over the horizon. An uphill plod threaded its way into a steadily narrowing gap between the trees. On a forest track a white truck was parked up. We were soon to find out why. Our first break of the day came on the summit of Manquhill Hill and whilst we ate our butties, a group of Duke of Edinburgh students from Ayr filed passed. The white van was, it seems the vehicle of a support teacher. As we moved down from our lunch spot, two more groups came by, both from the same school. Then we were on the grassy depression below the big climb of the day.

The slog up Benbrack was accompanied by some drizzle blowing in on the wind: but only for a few minutes. Photographs were taken of the stone arch and its companion on the next hill. Then a glorious high level ridge walk led to Black Hill and beyond into the pine forest. A strange loop to the memorial stone at Allan’s Cairn, took in a narrow forest trod and some tricky underfoot conditions. Then it was down steeply onto a wide and dusty forestry road and the best of the section was behind us. Just beyond the bothy at Polskeoch, the tarmac was reached and another halt was called. We needed to find some strength from somewhere to tackle the denouement of our week. So it was back to one more section of careful navigation and pole-spotting. This gradually took us up across the grain of the hillside until a gate in a new deer fence led over Cloud Hill where the most glorious view waited for us. There, some four miles ahead, glittering in the evening sunshine, lay our final destination, the lovely town of Sanquhar. The descent seemed to go on for ever, with our target seemly getting no nearer. But the valley was eventually reached and the rivers crossed. At the point where the SUW turned off for a loop round the town, we abandoned the official route until next year. We walked slowly up the road and headed straight for the station. Thus finished two of the longest walking days for many a year.  

Dalry dep. 08.27, Sanquhar Station arr. 20.00

GPS 26.69 miles in 11hrs 01mins 35secs walking time with 15min breaks at Manquhill Hill and at Dalgonar near Polskeoch.

Conclusion

The train arrived after half an hour and half an hour after that, we were having a cup of coffee in Dumfries. Then we set off in search of the river and our car and changed out of our dusty clothes. The drive home was eventless with a short stop at Tebay Services. By 1am, Mike was safely home and I was parking up in Macclesfield soon afterwards. I was too sweaty and dirty to climb into bed without a wash so I chanced waking up the house by turning on the shower at 2am. It had been a very long day.

We had walked 97 miles in what was basically 4 very long days and an evening. It proved a very tough challenge and we are hoping that we have broken the back of this trail. Next year’s plan of continuing onwards to Melrose or Lauder should not be quite so taxing.